Does anyone have playfield scans of this game? In particular I am looking for two sections. The grey/black section between the P in Poker insert and the joker target, and the red/orange planet in the upper left pops area.
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Does anyone have playfield scans of this game? In particular I am looking for two sections. The grey/black section between the P in Poker insert and the joker target, and the red/orange planet in the upper left pops area.
I am in the middle of putting a playfield back together that I bought disassembled. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct default orientation of the ace kickers? I guess I just don't understand how they reset if so because the plungers go against gravity? Anyone able to confirm or post a pic of the correct orientation?
IMG_20190402_193411896 (resized).jpgQuoted from zacaj:Shouldn't be GI, should be to another row/column wire. Might just look like a GI wire though
So the pop bumper light circuit is not connected to the GI circuit? I'll take some pictures of the wiring mess I'm looking at just to make sure I have this right.
I have four of these lugs with a diode, all coming from various red wires. Each of these diodes should attach to one leg of the pop bumper light socket.
I then have the yellow/black wire attached to some bare wire. This should attach to the other leg of each pop bumper.
This matches the lamp matrix, just want to make sure that I have the logic correct and that I can connect them all to the same yellow/black wire.
IMG_20190406_155216662 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190406_155210832 (resized).jpg
I 3d printed mine and ordered from Ninja Prototype for about $15+shipping. I used their PLA2 material which so far has seemed sturdy enough and was much less expensive than some of their other options.
I am having some strange drop target issues and was wondering if anyone has any ideas.
Start a game, on the first ball drop targets behave as expected. If I don't hit any drop targets then I have no issues the next ball. However, if I knock any targets down, on the next ball I start getting switch issues. The spinner triggers the K target, the King of Diamonds triggers the Q target, and the outhole triggers the A target. If I knock down every target in the bank but the A target, on the next ball all solenoids start firing until the solenoid fuse blows.
The switches are all on rows 1 and 2 of the middle 3 columns.
I would think if it were the PIA or 7406 that it would be a constant issue, but it seems to be related to the targets resetting.
Anyone have any thoughts? Could it be as simple as a bad switch diode? I have already replaced the 40 pin interconnect and socketed a bunch of chips, the intermittent nature of this problem has been stumping me thus far though.
Quoted from zacaj:Could definitely be a diode
Cool. I'll start testing them later tonight then.
Well I had been pulling my hair out all night trying to figure things out. I replace one drop target diode that may have been bad but it had no effect on my problem.
I reflowed solder on all the drop target circuitboards and checked diodes on every other switch in rows 1 and 2 with no success.
I was about to give up when I noticed that the switch behind the 5 bank of targets wasn't scoring (it is also in row 1 of the switch matrix). The diode tested good but then I noticed that the wiring seemed off compared to other standup switches
Sure enough. The green and white wires had been soldered together to one leg on the diode. I rewired it correctly and everything is working now!
Quoted from ryanwanger:Time for me to do a flipper rebuild - mine are weak! What are the right parts for these flippers? The manual I see online is only for settings etc, and a few months ago I almost ordered a rebuild kit parts online, but the parts didn't look like they matched what is in my machine.
It's a bit expensive but I went with the full fliptronic rebuild kit from Pinball Life and it rocks. Much easier and cheaper to rebuild in the future too.
Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
a-15205-r-2_a-15205-l-2
Choose A Base Plate: Left
Choose A Coil: SFL-19-400/30-750
Choose A Coil Stop: A-12111
Choose An EOS Switch: 03-7811 Normally Closed EOS
Full Flipper Assembly For Williams/Bally Machines From 02/1992 To 10/1998
a-15205-r-2_a-15205-l-2
Choose A Base Plate: Right
Choose A Coil: SFL-19-400/30-750
Choose A Coil Stop: A-12111
Choose An EOS Switch: 03-7811 Normally Closed EOS
Quoted from zacaj:My AP will be on the Buffalo pinball stream tonight
https://twitch.tv/buffalopinball/profile 8pm est
Your flipper travel length looks the same as mine does with Fliptronic assemblies.
The dipswitches on the top of the sound board control whether speech is on or off. The manual should tell you what to set them to.
It sounds like you might be missing some speech? I would suspect either the sockets on the speech board or perhaps the ROMs are starting to fail.
The test button on the sound board should cycle through speech as well.
Quoted from lowbeau67:Got a nice alien poker few weeks ago.
Working good.
Playing tonight and noticed left sling not firing.
Removed glass and checked.
Switches not scoring/registering.
Checked under playfield.
All connections good.
Cap and resistor wired on one switch.
Could this be my problem.
Seems like I had a bad cap on my flash slingshot and replaced it to get working again.
Thx for any help.
If a diode goes bad in the switch matrix it can cause what you're talking about. I'd check the diodes on the left sling switches as well as anything else in the row or column for the switches that aren't working.
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