(Topic ID: 189712)

Williams 58 Short Stop Restoration Project - Complete

By SteveinTexas

6 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 89 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Atari_Daze
  • Topic is favorited by 17 Pinsiders

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    15 Glass with lights Off (resized).JPG
    14 Right Overview (resized).JPG
    13 Left Overview (resized).JPG
    12 Front Cabinet (resized).JPG
    11 Front Moulding (resized).JPG
    10 New Glass and Marque installed (resized).JPG
    9 Glass Front (resized).JPG
    8 Glass Back (resized).JPG
    7 New Glass Arrives (resized).JPG
    6 Crowd marque in Game (resized).JPG
    5 Crowd Marque as made. (resized).JPG
    4 Bat Repaired 2 (resized).JPG
    3 Bat Repaired 1 (resized).JPG
    2 Bat Repair (resized).JPG
    1 Bat Rubber Spray (resized).JPG
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    #26 6 years ago

    New to Pinside and Joining the thread. Thank you to Steve for the prior assistance. Working on same machine and came across a Williams Pitch Motor 14-7726 gear problem. Motor works fine accept for black nylon gear is damaged that the small brass gear from actual motor seeds into. Can this gear be replaced?

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    #28 6 years ago

    To bring you up to where I am at on the project. All burnt/bad coils have been replaced, all wiring fixed, and other items maintained. I did set the machine to free play so I can diagnose any problems, etc.

    Any help on the following questions:

    Question 1: Is the bat relay a Hold relay? Example: Pitch a ball (do not swing) and when the ball goes down the Strike trough it fires the bat relay and it stays energized), does the same when I swing the bat. However, after making another pitch, the relay turns off.

    Question 2: The machine only had two of the meters and they were totally removed with the wires capped off. Does this affect the match play, name replay if they are not connected/installed?

    Question 3: In regard to the Match Rotating Stepper Unit - Is there an exact homing location on this?

    WM SSTOP (resized).jpgWM SSTOP (resized).jpg

    #30 6 years ago

    I viewed the Ebay Motor 6738a (spec 440). My motor has an rpm of 24 and 50 volts and the 6738a motor on Ebay specifies 45 volt and 17 rpm. Will this be a problem?

    #36 6 years ago

    Great job on the restoration.
    More questions:
    1. I am having a few wiring issues myself, can you send close up photos of the completed meter board with wiring as well as relay row.
    2. What is the best cleaning agents to clean the metal parts (brackets, relay harness', etc) and wiring harness?
    3. What paint type of paint did you use on the Transformer (Red)?

    I am terrible at before photos: Running man unit completed.

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    #38 6 years ago

    Great photos and this will help me tremendously - thanks.
    The game was in bad shape internally: Super dirty, had many bad coils, by-passed wiring (why I needed the photos) and yes someone had put 20 amp fuses in many of the holders.

    Finished the 2 bells and knocker - like I said, I wish I had before photos. The large bell had a coil that was so badly damaged the plastic melted to it.

    New question: Is there a homing setting on the match stepper unit?

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    #39 6 years ago

    On the relay wiring: Please see your relay wiring photo with details of my questions.

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    #41 6 years ago

    Thank you for the detailed explanation - that will be on my list of things to accomplish after I finish fixing the wiring issues.

    #45 6 years ago

    Sent my pitch motor off to Steve's pinball for repair and will troubleshoot the bat relay problem when I get the part back.
    While this is being completed I started on the coin area. Found another questionable wire problem: Attached is a photo with questions on it. Does not appear to be correct with the Tilt lead going to the coin switch but I could be wrong.

    coin wiring (resized).jpgcoin wiring (resized).jpg

    #47 6 years ago

    At the microswitch to the left - does the Red wire have two connections - with a lead running from that switch to the Tilt?

    #49 6 years ago

    Thanks
    I found a schematic from the Pinball resource - is that a good one to get?

    By any chance, do you know where I can get an armature assembly for the coin lockout relay - I believe it is part A-5956? I have searched everywhere and contacted several suppliers.

    Coin door (resized).jpgCoin door (resized).jpg

    #52 6 years ago

    Thank you Steve for all of the assistance with my first EM repair.
    Updates: After getting my pitching motor back from The Pinball Resource and repairing all coils and wiring, I was able to fully test the machine and played my first game on it.

    The only issue I am having is with the bat relay. With my schematics and Steves information, I will eventually diagnose the problem.

    On to the back glass, I am not sure what direction I will go on this one. Will see how much I can save after I remove it.

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    #54 6 years ago

    Thanks and I will post some photos later today.

    #55 6 years ago

    Let me know if these work for you.

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    1 week later
    #56 6 years ago

    Been away from the final repairs: The machine is fully functional and I finally figured out that dreaded Bat Relay problem. After hours of checking the switches and following the wiring diagram (all was correct), it actually turned out to be a simple fix. When the bat relay would fire, the gap in the open switch (noted on photo) was actually set too close together. The current was too strong for the spring to pull it back open and it would stay locked on. I adjusted the switch to where it barely touches and problem solved. I will post a live video of the machine after I move it to its final location.

    Bat Relay (resized).jpgBat Relay (resized).jpg

    1 month later
    #74 6 years ago

    Dave,
    Welcome to this forum. I have been out of the loop for awhile and enjoy watching and reading Steve's restoration of his Williams Shortstop, it is amazing work and he sure did help me on some of my wiring issues.

    I finished my game around a month ago and wanted to keep the nostalgia of the machine. I am not a collector but enjoy the hobby and my decision to keep the machine as original as possible was completely personal (ie: cigarette burns on the wood rail). My cabinet had several dings, chips etc and I concentrated on just those small areas, with personal mixing color matches. If you look at an angle, you can see the minor touch ups on the cabinet, but I am ok with that.

    I see where your back glass is almost perfect, mine was in bad shape and what a headache trying to fix it. I found the best method is scanning and then using the decal method (takes several layers to get the affect and colors that you need). It did not come out the best and since it is for personal use, I will leave it alone. I may order the Bgresto back glass in the future.

    One cool thing to share with everyone: My college boys had friends over during the Thanksgiving break and the machine was played non-stop by them compared to the solid state machines that I have.

    Thank you to everyone for sharing

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