(Topic ID: 189712)

Williams 58 Short Stop Restoration Project - Complete


By SteveinTexas

2 years ago



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  • 89 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Atari_Daze
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    15 Glass with lights Off (resized).JPG
    14 Right Overview (resized).JPG
    13 Left Overview (resized).JPG
    12 Front Cabinet (resized).JPG
    11 Front Moulding (resized).JPG
    10 New Glass and Marque installed (resized).JPG
    9 Glass Front (resized).JPG
    8 Glass Back (resized).JPG
    7 New Glass Arrives (resized).JPG
    6 Crowd marque in Game (resized).JPG
    5 Crowd Marque as made. (resized).JPG
    4 Bat Repaired 2 (resized).JPG
    3 Bat Repaired 1 (resized).JPG
    2 Bat Repair (resized).JPG
    1 Bat Rubber Spray (resized).JPG
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    There are 89 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 2 years ago

    The next item to tackle was the running man.

    1 running man (resized).jpg A Refinished Running man 3D Visualization

    The running man is a clever 3D visualization of what is happening in the game. The unit is operated by a motor with a gearbox with a double shaft operating cams and switches on one end and the running men on the other.

    2 DSC06215 (resized).JPG I removed the player caricatures including the runners and stored in a safe place early on in the restoration.

    The motor when assembled would turn but it seemed to have too much resistance. I want to check the running man motor & gearbox and ensure it is clean and ready for another 25 years playing ball as it is the heart of the game. To get to the gearbox we need to remove all the wiring harness and switches. This gives us access to remove the cam wheel by hammering out the spring pin and this exposes the screws that hold the gearbox to the frame. Alas, as usual the cam wheel is 'frozen' to the shaft.

    3 DSC06222 (resized).JPG I was initially stumped how to safely remove the cam wheel. Usually I can get them to turn a bit but this time not. Time for plan b.

    4 DSC06227 (resized).JPG
    Plan b was to drill out the visible gearbox 3/16” rivet flared ends and then punch out the rivets, remove the gearbox top housing exposing the gears etc and the main shaft, invert the housing so i can then 'drive the shaft out of the cam wheel with a punch .
    5 DSC06229 (resized).JPG
    It worked perfectly. Look at the old caked on grease and grime on the cogs.

    6 DSC06230 (resized).JPG The main shaft was still frozen into the brass bearing so some gentle tapping was necessary to push it out of the housing.

    It was easy to remove the gearbox exposed screws now and then separate the cam from the shaft in a vice with a soft hammer. On visual examination the brass bearings are not worn and they can be left in place.

    Next step was to place all parts including the motor in the ultrasonic cleaner in a Zep orange solution or such. Do not use a degreaser cleaner like Zep Purple Cleaner as it is very bad for brass and aluminum. After a good clean and scrub I dry the parts and put in a tumbler with walnut shells and any metal polish that is a scratch remover for 24 hours to get them clean.
    24 hours later…..

    8 DSC06266 (resized).JPG We need to replace the new 3/16” rivets. They were originally brass as what Steve at PBR has in his replacement packs but I replace with copper tubing from a roll at Ace Hardware.

    10 DSC06268 (resized).JPG The length of the rivet needs to be the same length of all the parts put back together, no more no less. So the housing and spacer is 1 9/16” long so I cut for rivets with a tube cutter. The ends need to be deburred inside and out. I use a dremel outside and an exacto knife inside the tube.

    13 DSC06271 (resized).JPG New rivets. They are a little curvy but will work as the material is so soft. I gently tap the rivets into the housing and it all seems to work quite well.

    14 DSC06274 (resized).JPG It’s important to take pictures so the washers go back as you found them. This motor has no spring on the rotor spindle so if you do what I am describing you can stop looking for it on a running man motor as you did not lose it. I had to find two spare running man motors and check there was not one installed, phew!

    17 DSC06278 (resized).JPG Before I re-rivet, I clamp the motor together and make sure that the cogs all turn easily. We need to remove all misalignment.

    18 DSC06279 (resized).JPG A bench test with a 50V motor and this baby is humming.

    19 DSC06280 (resized).JPG I remove the clamps and use my rivet press to squeeze the rivets and we are done. One final bench test and this motor can go back in the game for another 25 years.

    #52 2 years ago

    Thank you Steve for all of the assistance with my first EM repair.
    Updates: After getting my pitching motor back from The Pinball Resource and repairing all coils and wiring, I was able to fully test the machine and played my first game on it.

    The only issue I am having is with the bat relay. With my schematics and Steves information, I will eventually diagnose the problem.

    On to the back glass, I am not sure what direction I will go on this one. Will see how much I can save after I remove it.

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    #53 2 years ago

    Nice job on the game it looks real good.

    Possibly you could take a pic for me. I forgot how the lights went onto the wooden support for the "One bats while one pitches".

    #54 2 years ago

    Thanks and I will post some photos later today.

    #55 2 years ago

    Let me know if these work for you.

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    1 week later
    #56 2 years ago

    Been away from the final repairs: The machine is fully functional and I finally figured out that dreaded Bat Relay problem. After hours of checking the switches and following the wiring diagram (all was correct), it actually turned out to be a simple fix. When the bat relay would fire, the gap in the open switch (noted on photo) was actually set too close together. The current was too strong for the spring to pull it back open and it would stay locked on. I adjusted the switch to where it barely touches and problem solved. I will post a live video of the machine after I move it to its final location.

    Bat Relay (resized).jpg

    #57 2 years ago

    Great job! Beautiful ! I sold one of these to a customer some years back. He is moving and has it up for sale on Denver craigslist if anyone is looking for one.
    I did not read the whole thread but this game is unusual in that I believe it is the only pitch an bat that the playfield is tilted away from the player. Thanks for sharing.

    #58 2 years ago
    Quoted from SDOHIO67:

    Been away from the final repairs: The machine is fully functional and I finally figured out that dreaded Bat Relay problem. After hours of checking the switches and following the wiring diagram (all was correct), it actually turned out to be a simple fix. When the bat relay would fire, the gap in the open switch (noted on photo) was actually set too close together. The current was too strong for the spring to pull it back open and it would stay locked on. I adjusted the switch to where it barely touches and problem solved. I will post a live video of the machine after I move it to its final location.

    Glad you got the bat relay issue fixed. So it turned out to be a mechanical fix of electrical parts, sometimes it’s the case. However, if the problem happens again even once, could I point you to look at a slightly different culprit.

    For my 2 cents I am not convinced that the spring could fight an energized 50V relay it can only return the blade to an un-energized state, so where is the energy coming from that is holding the switch closed too long?

    On the schematic the bat relay has three switched paths to stay energized.
    a. Strike switch which is only energized momentarily by a trough switch, so it’s not the issue.

    b. The switch you point to (SW 1 on the schematic) in your picture is closed only as long as the bat relay is energized. You were able to get this to work by making the contact time shorter it seems and that is very interesting.

    c. Finally the real culprit I think is the Bat EOS switch located on the bat unit. This switch causes the same issue if it closes and opens again too quickly. So you may want to adjust the EOS blades to keep the closed period as long as possible if the problem occurs again.

    See the pic below of the bat lever and its action that cuts power to the bat relay. If the switch is bent to far from the bat lever the bat operation might not trigger the EOS switch properly.

    Bat EOS Switch (resized).JPG

    1 week later
    #59 2 years ago

    I keep having to go away for work so getting the running man and the light box completed has been neglected. Thank goodness for before pictures, memory will not cut it. I like to spruce up the ‘players’ diamond and outfield. Time takes a toll on this part so a spruce up is always a nice touch.
    1 Original running man (resized).jpg Typical ‘Players’ Diamond before restoration, you can clearly see the fade.

    First job is to repaint the bottom with some grey paint. I usually get the little paint pot samples from Lowes as the need to repaint the back of play-fields happens no more than twice a year.
    2 Running man field underside (resized).JPG Underside

    It’s now time now to paint the new ‘green spring’ grass color replacing the old summer water parched 60 year old grass. Painting is straightforward using frisket and an exacto blade to prepare for painting or to make homemade stencils. Once the underside paint first step is dry the first step is to lightly sand the old paint to give the new paint some tooth. Follow by frisketing the area to be painted and with an exacto blade carefully cut on the paint lines the areas for painting. Wait to next day and frisket again the top and carefully cut around the ‘dirt’ diamond area. The following day frisket and repaint new white lines over the diamond etc. Straight after I spray auto clear to make it all pop.

    This time however, I had the dreaded auto clear orange peel result, I did not expect that. I know I caused the issue, either I wiped the surface down with a contaminated painters rag when I used naphtha to remove the frisket glue. I had been waxing and polishing some parts so I may not have used a clean rag. Any way it is fixable with an eye drop and more clear. Just takes time.
    3 Clear eyedrops fix (resized).JPG Orange peel – step 1 fix with clear from an eye dropper

    I had added a heavy coat, so once the clear was eye dropped into all the areas we can sand with a 220 grit paper and in ten minutes the surface was ready for re-clearing. This time I sanded the following week with 800 grit, up to 2000 grit (15 minutes) and polished with Maguire’s Swirl Remover and Bobs your uncle.
    4 Finished RM Playfield (resized).JPG Finished.

    I have reassembled the running man and replaced the player caricatures and runners. If anyone wants to replace their men or spruce them up I am linking you to an earlier post where we had to remake the men. Scroll to post #71. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1963-major-league-restoration/page/2

    The cardboard background in unique on this game. It is taller than other games and usually needs replacing due to tears and splits. I have added the original background back to the game but it’s very brittle. I have made scans and will fix the artwork and will have it remade. If anyone is interested in new copies of the crowd backdrop, sides and the 2 player banner let me know.
    I use vinegar or something as gentle to get the dirt off. Just be slow and it all gets clean without damaging the surface.
    5 SHORT STOP MARQUE Picture (resized).jpg Crowd Marque

    6 Banner Sign cropped (resized).JPG Player Sign

    I reinstalled the completed running man with the other restored components. Its starting to look like progress is being made.
    7 Running Man fitted. (resized).JPG The last thing for this phase is replacing the perspex curved window. The original is 1/8” thick and needs driving into the slot. It did so but although I cleaned it well its 60 years old and detracts from the rest of the game. I looked around and found a PETG subsitute that will be brilliantly clear and only half as thick.
    8 New Clear window (resized).JPG Old window being used as a pattern for the new PETG material (still with its protective covers). Ready for cutting.

    The window thickness is important as the wood that retains this window is now brittle and less strong, no need to stress the wood further than needed. I had to replace a portion of the curved wood during the early restoration and did not want to do this again after painting. The new material being flexible and thinner slid in easily.
    9 Fitted PETG window (resized).JPG This new piece of PETG is cheap to replace if it gets scratched and will last a long time in a home environment.

    #60 2 years ago

    Dang Steve, this is looking real nice! I especially like how the running man box restoration went.

    A tip for future restorations. Instead of an xacto knife, for cutting stencils, frisket, etc, I use a scalpel and either a #11 blade (straight and pointed) or a #10 blade (rounded edge). I've found that the scalpel blades are made of a higher quality steel, retain their edges longer and cut much thinner lines. I also find them a bit easier to maneuver. The last ones I bought were on Amazon; $4 for the handle and about $5 for a box of 100 blades.

    Thanks for continuing to share your progress. I'll bet this will be beautiful when done.

    #61 2 years ago
    Quoted from Half_Life:

    Dang Steve, this is looking real nice! I especially like how the running man box restoration went.
    A tip for future restorations. Instead of an xacto knife, for cutting stencils, frisket, etc, I use a scalpel and either a #11 blade (straight and pointed) or a #10 blade (rounded edge). I've found that the scalpel blades are made of a higher quality steel, retain their edges longer and cut much thinner lines. I also find them a bit easier to maneuver. The last ones I bought were on Amazon; $4 for the handle and about $5 for a box of 100 blades.
    Thanks for continuing to share your progress. I'll bet this will be beautiful when done.

    That's a good tip. I go thru packs of blades. Will try scalpel blades next.

    #62 2 years ago
    Quoted from SDOHIO67:

    Let me know if these work for you.

    Perfect pic's, thank you.

    #63 2 years ago

    Lite Box Board

    The lite and reels are mounted on a one piece board. This time I removed the light wiring harness to repaint the frame. There is a lot going on in this lite box and it will take some time to strip down, clean, polish and rebuild.

    I used again a box store ‘white’ pot sample to paint the light reflecting side.
    10 Lite Board New Paint Front (resized).JPG Front with a new light reflecting coat of paint

    I sprayed the back yellow. This strip down gave me a good opportunity to clean the light holders before putting back in place and re-stapling. As this yellow has a matt finish I needed to clear coat with something.

    Here is a question I should ask guys on the restore forum; what do they do with unused auto clear. I get an urge not to waste it and spray something….anything, example fence posts, my air receiver, the neighbor’s cat, something. Anyway, I usually resist and dispose of it into a waste 5 gallon container but as I was re-clearing the ‘players’ surface I gave the yellow coat on the light box frame a cool heavy coat of auto clear.
    11 Lite Board New Paint back (resized).JPG Rear of Lite board repainted, clear coated and lite holders reinstalled.

    The parts of the steppers score reels, relays etc were all cleaned, tumbled and polished. Now to reassemble. The wire harness was soaked (cleaned with a tooth brush) in a diluted ZEP orange cleaner overnight & rinsed. The water was blown out with an air compressor and left to totally dry for a day or so. I then clean the switch leafs and contacts with my dremel as best I can.

    Parts laid out ready for reassembly. We will need our strip down pictures to put this all back together.
    12 Parts to reassembled 1 (resized).JPG
    13 Parts to reassembled 2 (resized).JPG I must admit that once I saw this bunch of parts, I lost some enthusiasm to start the work. I decided that getting in the Christmas mood was more important. Wow …but it’s just a lite box.

    #64 2 years ago

    Excellent thread Steve - thanks for sharing your work!

    Also, love the butcher block benchtop, plugmold/wiremold and slatwall - what a fantastic setup!

    Brad

    #65 2 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Here is a question I should ask guys on the restore forum; what do they do with unused auto clear.

    How much clear are you mixing? I'm still very new to this stuff but have learned to mix and spray as little as 50cc of clear, in medicine cups, (my brand of clear ratio is 4) I found this amount is just about right for a light to medium layer on a standard playfield in order to clear between paint.

    #66 2 years ago

    And I failed to state how beautiful of work your doing on this machine!

    #67 2 years ago
    Quoted from Atari_Daze:

    How much clear are you mixing? I'm still very new to this stuff but have learned to mix and spray as little as 50cc of clear, in medicine cups, (my brand of clear ratio is 4) I found this amount is just about right for a light to medium layer on a standard playfield in order to clear between paint.

    Spot on observation. I am concentrating on the PPG/OMNI 2 mixture and addition of the clear flattening agent. I pour some clear and then have to get the mix correct. I usually have a few things waiting for clear so I mix too much. I don't really spray cats... they are way too fast.

    #68 2 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Lite Box Board
    Here is a question I should ask guys on the restore forum; what do they do with unused auto clear. I get an urge not to waste it and spray something….anything, example fence posts, my air receiver, the neighbor’s cat, something. Anyway, I usually resist and dispose of it into a waste 5 gallon container but as I was re-clearing the ‘players’ surface I gave the yellow coat on the light box frame a cool heavy coat of auto clear.

    Once again a wonderful & inspiring resto-thks & congrats.

    I try to keep all my left over auto acrylics in sealed jars. They invariably are great for future use.

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    #69 2 years ago

    I have storage boxes of paints and have different storage results. The acrylics seem to survive storage for a while.

    Regarding other paints like latex however, I find they go solid quite quickly along with the polyurethanes. That's why I am using sample pots now for the white and grey needs.

    I think that I am too messy and get product around the top and they don't reseal every time when I hammer on the lids.

    1 week later
    #70 2 years ago

    The playfield is next and the new backglass from Bgresto when it finally shows up.
    1 Playfield (resized).JPG
    The playfield is straight forward enough to clean and repaint the trim if needed. The laminate surface stands the test of time very well as long as there is a protective glass to protect it from falling objects. It has an interesting bat 3 part arrangement (C-5161) that was modified by Williams to a plastic bat a couple of years later on the 1960 Deluxe Official Baseball Game. The original C-5161 and C-5161-1 driver arm have a bat with a shaft similar to a flipper shaft and an assembly arm. This three piece arrangement (bat and shaft are two separate pieces) was replaced on the ‘Official Baseball’ C-5161-2 game with a more modern version three piece arrangement.
    2 Bat Assembly (resized).JPG Bat Unit

    The early C-5161 bat has a cotter pin on the shaft that allowed the bat and shaft to be fitted from the top of the playfield with a smaller hole in the playfield. This was simplified a year or so later to the final two piece arrangement (not changed since) and although not really necessary the cotter pin was nice engineering in my view.
    3 Bat Lever Connection (resized).JPG So disassembly and restoration apart from the bat lever is simple. I remove all the metal parts and put in the tumbler, repaint any painted trim and clean the laminate playfield surface. Regarding the bat you need to drive out the pins to remove the bat from the spindle. I put some painters tape on the surface to protect the laminate when I used my hammer. The bat spindle will pullout from below when the linkage is removed.

    The original scoring cards are in surprisingly good condition. Probably as they had clear protective covers.
    4 Score Cards (resized).JPG Score Cards

    After stripping the playfield the smaller metal parts were put in the tumbler for a day. The playfield was cleaned and polished with Gel-Gloss and the backs sanded and hand painted grey. The wiring harness was added to a container with a weak mix of Zep orange cleaner and water that seems to brighten the copper switches and is a good cleaner of the cloth wiring. After a day or so soaking I clean with a tooth brush and leave it to dry.

    Finally we get to spruce up the trim in a nice red color and clear. I add some flattening agent to take the high gloss edge of the clear and it looks like new.

    5 Refreshed Trim (resized).JPG So it’s already to put back together but I need to leave a few days for the paint and clear to harden some more.

    Earlier I said I would remake the cardboard running man art. The cardboard on this game is in reasonable condition but it is held together by pasted on white paper or it would fall apart.
    5a Running Man Art (resized).JPG Original Art on Game

    If you have to remove the running man it is only time before it gets bent and torn. So I scanned the art and cleaned it up in photo shop. Fast signs can make it on a 0.060” plastic sheet and this is the way to go. It will last another 60 years easy. I will keep the original with the game along with the labels I change.
    6 SHORT STOP MARQUE FINAL (resized).jpg
    9 BANNER ART FINAL (resized).jpg
    7 Banner Left Final (resized).jpg
    8 Banner Right Final (resized).jpg

    If anyone is interested in new running man marque art sides for their game let me know as it is unique to this game. Still haven’t found the game that the Pin Rescue guys in Australia made their crowd marque for as it is too short in height.

    #71 1 year ago

    Great job documenting your 58 Short Stop restoration! Picked up the same model a month back and I can’t tell you how much your images have helped me out…Thanks!

    I have a question on whether to refinish the cabinet or leave it original? It would be great to get a few opinions on the matter. Seems like the collectors say to leave it as original as possible but then I see how great yours looks I think I should redo it. I also do not want to sand down the wood and lose the original patina. Here are a few photos with it all cleaned up. It’s running great after fixing a few broken wires, disassembling and cleaning batting and pitching units, and finding a wood screw shorting out two wires on the cabinet connector. The running man unit is in very good condition! Backglass is also in awesome condition for being almost 60 years old!

    This is my second restore of a pitch & bat machine…first was a ’55 Chicago Coin Big League Deluxe “Bullseye”. Like you I’m waiting for my backglass from Steve at Bgresto, been 4 months but I hear he is a busy guy and its worth the wait. You may also notice the red pitch button on the panel, if you know where I could find a metal button (like the other side) it would be greatly appreciated. I really enjoy the challenge of getting these games up to 100% operational and I am now looking for my third.

    One question I have for you is would you be willing to sell me the overlay you made for the pitch and bat molding? Replacing this one item would make the game look so much better.

    Thanks again for your posts, if there is any thing I can help you with let me know.

    Dave

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    #72 1 year ago
    Quoted from dkatgs:

    Great job documenting your 58 Short Stop restoration! Picked up the same model a month back and I can’t tell you how much your images have helped me out…Thanks!
    I have a question on whether to refinish the cabinet or leave it original? It would be great to get a few opinions on the matter. Seems like the collectors say to leave it as original as possible but then I see how great yours looks I think I should redo it. I also do not want to sand down the wood and lose the original patina. Here are a few photos with it all cleaned up. It’s running great after fixing a few broken wires, disassembling and cleaning batting and pitching units, and finding a wood screw shorting out two wires on the cabinet connector. The running man unit is in very good condition! Backglass is also in awesome condition for being almost 60 years old!
    This is my second restore of a pitch & bat machine…first was a ’55 Chicago Coin Big League Deluxe “Bullseye”. Like you I’m waiting for my backglass from Steve at Bgresto, been 4 months but I hear he is a busy guy and its worth the wait. You may also notice the red pitch button on the panel, if you know where I could find a metal button (like the other side) it would be greatly appreciated. I really enjoy the challenge of getting these games up to 100% operational and I am now looking for my third.
    One question I have for you is would you be willing to sell me the overlay you made for the pitch and bat molding? Replacing this one item would make the game look so much better.
    Thanks again for your posts, if there is any thing I can help you with let me know.
    Dave

    Dave,
    Nice Game. The lower cabinet is not original so I say paint it. It originally had a hairy blue and white splatter. The blue was also lighter. The button you refer to is it the same as a metal one on the short stop? If so I may have one.

    Let me look if I have another overlay, its yours for the cost from fast signs. If you apply a coat of clear and sand it down like I did the finish is the same as the laminate except its as new. so this is a worth while improvement.

    #73 1 year ago

    Hi Steve, Thanks for your advice on painting the cabinet. Now that I know it's not orignal I plan on repainting it soon, it is a poor paint job, the colors came right off on the cloth while cleaning it up? My Chicago Coin has a very durable paint job, used Magic Erasers on it and cleaned up quite nicely. Any help on overlays is greatly appreciated.

    The metal button on Short Stop is smaller in diameter (3/4") then the one I need for Big League (7/8"). I thought about switching the credit button from SS with the pitch button on BL but they are different sizes.

    #74 1 year ago

    Dave,
    Welcome to this forum. I have been out of the loop for awhile and enjoy watching and reading Steve's restoration of his Williams Shortstop, it is amazing work and he sure did help me on some of my wiring issues.

    I finished my game around a month ago and wanted to keep the nostalgia of the machine. I am not a collector but enjoy the hobby and my decision to keep the machine as original as possible was completely personal (ie: cigarette burns on the wood rail). My cabinet had several dings, chips etc and I concentrated on just those small areas, with personal mixing color matches. If you look at an angle, you can see the minor touch ups on the cabinet, but I am ok with that.

    I see where your back glass is almost perfect, mine was in bad shape and what a headache trying to fix it. I found the best method is scanning and then using the decal method (takes several layers to get the affect and colors that you need). It did not come out the best and since it is for personal use, I will leave it alone. I may order the Bgresto back glass in the future.

    One cool thing to share with everyone: My college boys had friends over during the Thanksgiving break and the machine was played non-stop by them compared to the solid state machines that I have.

    Thank you to everyone for sharing

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    #75 1 year ago

    Very nice resto Steve.
    Question for you and everyone else. Has anyone found a replacement for the pitching mech torsion spring? I haven’t checked back with pinball resource in a year or so, but they were out of the larger diameter ones with no plans to order/make more. My 1963 Williams P&B uses the larger diameter which I need to find and my 1955 uses the smaller which PBR had.

    One of your pictures Steve for reference.

    6863BD29-399A-4C01-9672-8CAEB3A39EC9 (resized).jpeg

    #76 1 year ago
    Quoted from dkatgs:

    Hi Steve, Thanks for your advice on painting the cabinet. Now that I know it's not orignal I plan on repainting it soon, it is a poor paint job, the colors came right off on the cloth while cleaning it up? My Chicago Coin has a very durable paint job, used Magic Erasers on it and cleaned up quite nicely. Any help on overlays is greatly appreciated.
    The metal button on Short Stop is smaller in diameter (3/4") then the one I need for Big League (7/8"). I thought about switching the credit button from SS with the pitch button on BL but they are different sizes.

    Painting a cabinet is a personal choice, mine was flaking and had been touched up a long time ago. The game I got was unfortunately left in a barn the past 2 years and not protected in anyway from the elements in Nebraska so the cabinet paint was toast really.

    Regarding the buttons look at this picture. On the right is the Williams button. On the left is a 7/8" Gottlieb button. Would the Gottlieb button work?

    DSC06390 (resized).JPG

    #77 1 year ago
    Quoted from tuffano:

    Very nice resto Steve.
    Question for you and everyone else. Has anyone found a replacement for the pitching mech torsion spring? I haven’t checked back with pinball resource in a year or so, but they were out of the larger diameter ones with no plans to order/make more. My 1963 Williams P&B uses the larger diameter which I need to find and my 1955 uses the smaller which PBR had.
    One of your pictures Steve for reference.

    I have been toying with getting a bunch made. Guess I need to make a few to get a decent price. I would need people to show interest they would buy a multiple spring order. Steve at PBR might get them made if people showed interest but I think we may have to get these made as a pay it forward project.

    #78 1 year ago

    The Gottlieb button (7/8") would work! This would be the final touch to make my 1955 CC Big League Deluxe restored to 100% original parts. Let me know what you would like for the button and thanks again for your help.

    I'm pretty new to the forum so I'll try to send a private message with my address.

    #79 1 year ago
    Quoted from dkatgs:

    The Gottlieb button (7/8") would work! This would be the final touch to make my 1955 CC Big League Deluxe restored to 100% original parts. Let me know what you would like for the button and thanks again for your help.
    I'm pretty new to the forum so I'll try to send a private message with my address.

    Got your message. Overlay & button. Have for what I paid and postage.

    1 week later
    #80 1 year ago
    Quoted from dkatgs:

    The Gottlieb button (7/8") would work! This would be the final touch to make my 1955 CC Big League Deluxe restored to 100% original parts. Let me know what you would like for the button and thanks again for your help.
    I'm pretty new to the forum so I'll try to send a private message with my address.

    I found another metal button that is 7/8" dia and want a final confirmation of which button you need.

    DSC06391 (resized).JPG

    #81 1 year ago

    Time to finish this game. The early baseball games have a rubber bat. People re tube the metal bat with black hose to various degrees of success. I had a large chuck missing in the back of mine and thought I would try a different idea.
    1 Bat Rubber Spray (resized).JPG Spray on rubber!

    I protected the metal connector end and sprayed multiple layers of rubber over a few hours. It bubbles a bit as it solidifies so not sure how porous it might be.
    2 Bat Repair (resized).JPG Looks pretty ugly. Anyway I left to harden for a week.

    It didn’t look any better but it was hard enough to work. I used my dremel with a sanding wheel and shaped it. It had a few air pockets that were uncovered by the sanding but quite small. I sprayed with Kyrlon clear and when dry it came out pretty good so I decided to use it on the game.
    3 Bat Repaired 1 (resized).JPG Batting Side
    4 Bat Repaired 2 (resized).JPGBackside

    I took my marque photo shopped sides to the local fast signs that does my work and had them make new signs on a 0.060” acrylic white sheet. Here is the result. I had to cut the curved sides but with shears this took a couple of minutes. I recommend this approach to new signage on old games as the cardboard becomes dry and very brittle. I left the old signs in the back if the game as they are part of the history. I will also change out all game labels and signage to cleaner versions as they were removed so not to get damaged in the cleaning. The original labels are put in the back of the game also.
    5 Crowd Marque as made. (resized).JPG New Running man Marque crowd.

    If people need other games there is a vendor called Roundnose58 on eBay that sells a few versions for a reasonable price and they are very good.
    6 Crowd marque in Game (resized).JPG Marque fitted in the game.

    I had sent my backglass to Steve Azzam at Bgresto in August so time to contact to see where we are. I emailed him and got a reply the next day that it was being shipped and I would have in a couple of days. Goody!
    7 New Glass Arrives (resized).JPG And here it is another seasonal gift.
    8 Glass Back (resized).JPG Looks perfect.
    9 Glass Front (resized).JPG Wow, that’s a great looking glass.
    10 New Glass and Marque installed (resized).JPG And here it is in the game.

    If anyone wants a picture of the game with the lights working let me know. It all looked perfect to me.

    So the game is now ready for powering up however, as I bought this as a project I have never seen it work so it’s always a discovery process to get it going again. As usual it didn’t work straight away but with the schematic it didn’t take too long. Some of the switch contacts needed tweaking to make a better contact and as usual the score reels needed a little realigning. Otherwise in a couple of days they were all operating as designed. The game is fun and looks great.
    11 Front Moulding (resized).JPG So all the cosmetics are complete and every switch and metal surface cleaned and polished. This is as faithful a restore as I can do. It’s still the original game but I remake and replace what is beyond repair and this included this time the power cable, cabinet paint, new back-glass, crowd marque and the moulding has an overlay. Oh also as I didn’t have any repainted red buttons on hand I used Scott Webb’s new aluminum anodized buttons and they look the bomb. The playfield glass is still the original plate glass probably and that will be replaced with safety glass in the New Year.
    12 Front Cabinet (resized).JPG
    13 Left Overview (resized).JPG Side View.
    14 Right Overview (resized).JPG Final view and my next project just found this week in Chandler, Texas when picking up a project Williams Big Daddy game.

    #82 1 year ago

    Here is the back-glass lighting effect. Never saw the original with the game working, it seems very good.
    15 Glass with lights Off (resized).JPG Bgresto Back Glass

    I played the game with my wife this afternoon and the buzzer is real noisy and long. May have to silence it. The buzzer and the 2nd batter up lights flash to signal to the second player it’s their turn to bat.

    #83 1 year ago

    Very very cool

    #84 1 year ago

    Nicely done Steve! You did a great job on the restoration! Thank you for sharing the journey.

    Phil

    #85 1 year ago

    That's three early baseball restoration write ups in the bag from 58 thru 63. Think that with this 2 player example I am satisfied for a while. The game is quite eye catching and is fun to play.

    The only thing holding these games back is the pitcher spring being unavailable currently. I will research that. The spring is critical to providing the correct power to the ball pitch. Most now seem too under powered and this can detract from the fun of the game. It's the same as worn flippers.

    #86 1 year ago

    I’d be in for a spring Steve, if you get that researched.

    #87 1 year ago
    Quoted from Hitch9:

    I’d be in for a spring Steve, if you get that researched.

    I will contact a spring company and see what they will cost and how many.

    2 months later
    #88 1 year ago

    All, I have had the spring remade and have a number for resale.
    See my thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-pitch-unit-springs-now-available#post-4262127 for availability.

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