The next item to tackle was the running man.
A Refinished Running man 3D Visualization
The running man is a clever 3D visualization of what is happening in the game. The unit is operated by a motor with a gearbox with a double shaft operating cams and switches on one end and the running men on the other.
I removed the player caricatures including the runners and stored in a safe place early on in the restoration.
The motor when assembled would turn but it seemed to have too much resistance. I want to check the running man motor & gearbox and ensure it is clean and ready for another 25 years playing ball as it is the heart of the game. To get to the gearbox we need to remove all the wiring harness and switches. This gives us access to remove the cam wheel by hammering out the spring pin and this exposes the screws that hold the gearbox to the frame. Alas, as usual the cam wheel is 'frozen' to the shaft.
I was initially stumped how to safely remove the cam wheel. Usually I can get them to turn a bit but this time not. Time for plan b.
Plan b was to drill out the visible gearbox 3/16” rivet flared ends and then punch out the rivets, remove the gearbox top housing exposing the gears etc and the main shaft, invert the housing so i can then 'drive the shaft out of the cam wheel with a punch .
It worked perfectly. Look at the old caked on grease and grime on the cogs.
The main shaft was still frozen into the brass bearing so some gentle tapping was necessary to push it out of the housing.
It was easy to remove the gearbox exposed screws now and then separate the cam from the shaft in a vice with a soft hammer. On visual examination the brass bearings are not worn and they can be left in place.
Next step was to place all parts including the motor in the ultrasonic cleaner in a Zep orange solution or such. Do not use a degreaser cleaner like Zep Purple Cleaner as it is very bad for brass and aluminum. After a good clean and scrub I dry the parts and put in a tumbler with walnut shells and any metal polish that is a scratch remover for 24 hours to get them clean.
24 hours later…..
We need to replace the new 3/16” rivets. They were originally brass as what Steve at PBR has in his replacement packs but I replace with copper tubing from a roll at Ace Hardware.
The length of the rivet needs to be the same length of all the parts put back together, no more no less. So the housing and spacer is 1 9/16” long so I cut for rivets with a tube cutter. The ends need to be deburred inside and out. I use a dremel outside and an exacto knife inside the tube.
New rivets. They are a little curvy but will work as the material is so soft. I gently tap the rivets into the housing and it all seems to work quite well.
It’s important to take pictures so the washers go back as you found them. This motor has no spring on the rotor spindle so if you do what I am describing you can stop looking for it on a running man motor as you did not lose it. I had to find two spare running man motors and check there was not one installed, phew!
Before I re-rivet, I clamp the motor together and make sure that the cogs all turn easily. We need to remove all misalignment.
A bench test with a 50V motor and this baby is humming.
I remove the clamps and use my rivet press to squeeze the rivets and we are done. One final bench test and this motor can go back in the game for another 25 years.