(Topic ID: 281309)

Williams 4 player - Ball Count and Player units don't step up.

By DropTarget

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by DropTarget
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#1 3 years ago

Hi,

This thread is a continuation from a previous one. It may help others that come across the same issues....

I have a 1970 Dipsy Doodle. I've put several issues to bed. This is remaining:

The game starts and scores, when a ball drains, neither the ball count or player units step up.

I'm unfamiliar with Williams 4 player logic.

- I've tested the coils, they're good.
- Score motor switches appear to be good as well
- the outhole relay fires
- extra ball relay N.C is closed

I still have to check the Player reset relay, but I'm pretty sure the make/break is adjusted correctly.

Helllllp!

Thx

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

when a ball drains, neither the ball count or player units step up

If the Ball Count step up solenoid doesn't activate when the ball drains on a 1 player game,
Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

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#3 3 years ago

Thanks Howard,

I've looked at that circuit, but will jump around it. It would sure be great if The wires weren't so dirty and faded! Oh well.

#4 3 years ago

So, I attacked this issue today. The it's just about impossible to read these wire colors. However, the ball index relay is not pulling in. If I manually close that relay, the ball count S.U. coil fires.

So....off to find out why the ball index relay does not energize....

It will pull in if the tilt relay is closed, but that's all.

Also, after ball 5, the machine does not go to game over.

One issue at a time, I guess.

#5 3 years ago

OK, so. Being that the coil works when the tilt relay is closed, that pretty much isolated the issue to the extra ball relay.

If I jump what appears to be the Br-G from the extra ball relay to the ball index relay, the ball index coil locks on and the ball count unit advances when the outhole switch is made. However, the ball index relay stays locked on, much like a lock relay does. Should that be the case? It does pulse off when the score motor rotates.

#6 3 years ago

The Ball Index relay should activate if you score 10, 100, or 1000 unless the Extra Ball relay has been activated.
Also the Ball Index relay should activate if you tilt, regardless of whether the Extra Ball relay has been activated.

After either of those happen, the Ball Index relay should stay locked on until the ball drains and the motor runs.

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#7 3 years ago

So, It's not activating when the machine scores. It appears the the Br-G-2 wire is common to all three scoring relays.

Also, I'm working on the player unit. I'll probably have to clean it all up, but in the meant time, do you know how many times the cog spring should be wound? If I wind it twice, the unit steps up just fine, but there's not enough tension to reset the unit. If I wind 3 times, it resets fine, but too much tension to step up.

#8 3 years ago

I'm glad to see another Dipsy Doodle owner. I've also got a 1970 Dipsy Doodle. Unfortunately I can't help with your problem. I hope you get it working!

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

So, It's not activating when the machine scores. It appears the the Br-G-2 wire is common to all three scoring relays.
Also, I'm working on the player unit. I'll probably have to clean it all up, but in the meant time, do you know how many times the cog spring should be wound? If I wind it twice, the unit steps up just fine, but there's not enough tension to reset the unit. If I wind 3 times, it resets fine, but too much tension to step up.

Quoted from DropTarget:

So, It's not activating when the machine scores. It appears the the Br-G-2 wire is common to all three scoring relays.
Also, I'm working on the player unit. I'll probably have to clean it all up, but in the meant time, do you know how many times the cog spring should be wound? If I wind it twice, the unit steps up just fine, but there's not enough tension to reset the unit. If I wind 3 times, it resets fine, but too much tension to step up.

Most of the time it’s 3 times around. It is a balancing act to get enough tension without too much. If you are sure that everything is clean and you’ve put a thin layer of on the rivet disc, and 3 turns won’t let it step up, then you can change the spoke where the spring starts either clockwise or counter clockwise to fine tune the amount of tension.

I haven’t run into a Williams stepper yet that can’t be made to step perfectly once it’s cleaned up and adjusted.

Good luck,
Dave

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

It's not activating when the machine scores. It appears the the Br-G-2 wire is common to all three scoring relays

That and the normally closed switch on the Extra Ball relay

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from dgAmpGuy:

Most of the time it’s 3 times around. It

Thanks Dave,

I've always used three times on other steppers. I haven't thoroughly cleaned this one yet.

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

That and the normally closed switch on the Extra Ball relay

Thanks Howard.

I think this machine is possessed. I removed the jumper that I had, which allowed the ball count unit to work. Now it counts, even when the ball index relay does not activate, and the machine now goes to game over. However, the ball index relay still does not activate with the scoring relays. It seems that the wiring from the extra ball relay though the jones connecter is continuous.

One other thing the game does, is that upon start up, it goes from game over to ball 1, then when the ball kicks to play, steps to 2nd ball. and of course the ball kicks out after the last ball. I'm assuming the finger disc needs to be moved one rivet clockwise.

#13 3 years ago

The latest.....

I cleaned and rebuilt the player unit. It still has the same trouble, I ended up shortening the furthest right vertical spring. It now works as advertised.

I still can not get the ball index to activate when the 10, 100 or 1000pt relays are engaged. The wires in this game are all faded and or dirty. I can not tell for sure which is the BR-G wire. If someone has a Dipsy Doodle that can tell me which lugs the BR-G wires are on the extra ball relay, the ball index relay, the jones plugs and scoring relays, I'd be quite grateful.

Thx.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

tell me which lugs the BR-G wires are on the extra ball relay, the ball index relay, the jones plugs and scoring relays

Most of that information can be found in the manual.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/683/Williams_1970_Dipsy_Doodle_Instruction_Manual.pdf

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#15 3 years ago
Quoted from HowardR:

Most of that information can be found in the manual.

Thanks Howard, I didn't even think of looking in the manual, I'm so used to Gottliebs.

#16 3 years ago

Ok, Is it me or is it the machine?

I ran a wire between the Br-G lug on the 10pt. relay and the extra ball relay. When the 10pt relay activated, the ball index relay did as well. However, the 10pt. relay did not release, and therefore the ball index relay stayed held on after the ball drained. So, I unsoldered the existing wire from the 10pt. relay and jumped from that switch blade to the extra ball relay, removing the old wiring from the circuit, with the same results. Also if I disconnect the jumper and close the 10pt. relay manually, the relay also stays locked on, even with no wire connected to that switch blade. As soon as I reconnect the original Br-G wire to the lug, the 10pt. relay acts as it should, but the ball index relay does not activate?

?????

#17 3 years ago

Hi DropTarget
do not get angry - did You look up in the ipdb-manual the drawing of the relays (Extraball-Relay, 10-Point-Relay) and the switches - You were at switch-1B on 10-Point-Relay (second from the bottom in the big switchstack on the relay) ? (((You wrote in post-13 "wires all faded and or dirty")))

When we jumper from wrong switch - all kind of strange things may happen. Can You follow wire-BR-G from "Switch on 10-Point-Relay" to "Switch on 100-Point-Relay" to "Switch on 1000-Point-Relay" to Jones-Plug in the Backbox ? Wire-BR-G truely soldered-on ?

An explanation to a common problem - we may encounter "10-Point-Relay is made to actuate - but then it sticks - keeps pulling forever": If none of the 10-Point-Score-Drums does actuate then the Self-Hold-Circuitry of the 10-Point-Relay is not cut - and so it stays pulling. Greetings Rolf

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Hi DropTarget
do not get angry - did You look up in the ipdb-manual the drawing of the relays (Extraball-Relay, 10-Point-Relay) and the switches - You were at switch-1B on 10-Point-Relay (second from the bottom in the big switchstack on the relay) ? (((You wrote in post-13 "wires all faded and or dirty")))

Not getting angry......getting frustrated!

Yes, I confirmed the the lug positions via the game manual.

Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

When we jumper from wrong switch - all kind of strange things may happen. Can You follow wire-BR-G from "Switch on 10-Point-Relay" to "Switch on 100-Point-Relay" to "Switch on 1000-Point-Relay" to Jones-Plug in the Backbox ? Wire-BR-G truely soldered-on ?

I started to trace the wires, but had to stop.

Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

An explanation to a common problem - we may encounter "10-Point-Relay is made to actuate - but then it sticks - keeps pulling forever": If none of the 10-Point-Score-Drums does actuate then the Self-Hold-Circuitry of the 10-Point-Relay is not cut - and so it stays pulling. Greetings Rolf

agreed, I just don't know why it's being held.

#19 3 years ago

OK,

Regrouping.......

and doing what I was trying to avoid......

The ball index relay has continuity through the extra ball relay Br-G wire to what I'm assuming is the Br-G wire on a jones plug in the head. The continuity is broken if I open the extra ball relay, so we're good that way. My next step is what I was trying to avoid, which is tracing the wire from the jones plug to the scoring relays. Of course it's buried in the middle of the thickest wire bundle. Time to unwrap the bundle. As things stand there in no continuity from the Jones plug to the score relay Br-G lugs, however there is continuity from the plug to the wire attached to the opposite blade of the switch.

#20 3 years ago

The latest....

I checked continuity from the Br-G lug on the extra ball relay to the jones plug. There was only one plug the had continuity. I followed that wire, which looks like it could have been Br-G at one time, now it looks more tan-G. It goes the the player unit. Does that make any sense? I don't see in the manual where it would go to the player unit. It connects to the middle lug of three on the top of the bakelite plate that's on the inside, closest to the coils.

#21 3 years ago

Hi DropTarget
want to try a temporary Work-Around so You can play some Games ? Take away what You may have added (Jumpers) - You have the "original problem": Ball-Index-Relay does not pull-in, does not stay pulling.
See the JPG - a temporary Work-Around - can You "play" ? Toggle-off the pin, unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons) - install two permanent set Jumper-Wires - they come out through the open Coin Door - hanging loose. Plug-in, start a game - when the first ball is kicked-out to the Shooter-Alley: Grab the Jumper-Wires at insulation - tip for a moment the free ends together - the Ball-Index-Relay shall pull-in and stay pulling - then play the Ball - when the ball is lost - does the pin step to next ball (and makes the Ball-Index-Relay non-pulling ?) ? Well, then before launching the second Ball: Again - grab the Jumper-Wires at insulation - tip for a moment the free ends together - the Ball-Index-Relay shall pull-in and stay pulling - then play the Ball etc.
Doing so - can You play a bit ? Greetings Rolf

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#22 3 years ago

Thanks Rolf,

I'll be able to check this and get back to you in a few days. I'm pretty sure the ball index relay would operate by doing that.

Added over 3 years ago:

well, that works, but I need to fix the root cause of the issue.

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