Swift Current, SK
Hi all.
Been dealing with mass frustrations with this machine for a long time. Got it down to two issues. Please check out the video and let me know if you can help.
Thanks
(Topic ID: 171600)
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Quoted from Otaku:That's some interesting custom artwork. You don't happen to still have the original glass do you?
I did it for some friends of mine who own a plumbing shop. Hence the Mario/plumber theme. And instead of collecting cards you're collecting employees/family. And the 3 jokers are the owners 3 kids. If I had more time I would have done a complete overlay of the playfield but it was a short notice idea for a gift and I spent most of the art time on the wrap of the cabinet and the back glass. Playfield sadly got the least love. However the theme integrates really well. Unfortunately the glass was broken before I got the machine. Previous owner had created a poor quality "paper translite" of the original so it isn't worth much. I gave it to the owner. Not sure it didn't hit the garbage.
I posted two more videos above in video three the discussion is about the step up problem on reset. I think I may have solved it I noticed while that was happening the coin relay and reset relay had two switches are arching pretty good. I clean those switches and move them closer together as they were spaced too far apart and at least for now it seems to be doing what it should. Assuming that's fixed the only issue is the motor running with the ball in the out whole when game over is on. If I watch all the coils and realize none of them are triggering while the game over motor is running. There are no switches moving which leads me to believe the problem must be a switch on the score motor since it's the only thing operational at that time.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
thanks for the videos. You write: ONLY problem (by now) is "Score-Motor does endlessly turn at Game-Over' ". I can see in a video: "Game-Over-Relay 'tripped' wants to trip again - and again and again". I looked up in ipdb-schematics "Post Time" - also "Game-Over-Relay is an INTERLOCK-Type relay (also in Post Time)". In the schematics (Post Time) I see a "Switch mounted on Game-Over-Relay" OPENING when tripped - OPENING a switch in the connection "feeding electricity to TRIP-Coil on the relay". Look in Your pin - do You see a short wire running from the COIL to a SWITCH (mounted on the relay) - investigate: Does this Switch TRUELY open ? Maybe a drop of solder has fallen and making faulty contact in the place "wires are soldered-on onto the Switchblades" ? Maybe THERE a blade is bent and making faulty-contact ?
THIS "maybe faulty Switch" would / does explain the "trip" and "trip" and "trip" - it most likely does not explain "Score-Motor does endlessly turn".
To verify / falsify my theory "Switch on Game-Over-Relay when tripped": "Switch does not open so current can flow to Outhole-Relay - so Outhole-Relay faulty pulls and so making the Score-Motor turn and turn and turn (my theory).
To verify / falsify my theory - question: When the fault happens: Does the Outhole-Relay PULLS ? Can You activate the Flippers ? Greetings Rolf
So I tested the switches with a multi meter and two switches on each of the two interlock relays failed. The showed closed when they were clearly open. I cut a wire off one and retested. That switch is fine. It's a wiring issue.
But in classic fashion I reconnect the wire and now the outhole coil doesn't work again. Back to the original problem. (You have no idea how much I hate this machine.)
In regards to your last question when the motor is running at game over The flippers do not activate and the out hole relay does not push the ball out. The only thing that does click on is it repeatedly tries to draw in the post between the flippers even though it's already down.
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:Hi Pauz.
stickin my nose in here a little.
the reason you are getting faulty continuity readings is because you are reading through coils. a piece of wire.
the best way to troubleshoot EM problems, is to do a HOT test.
placing clip leads on the output of the fuse, and on the return lead on the transformer.
then by moving a clip lead to a switch contact, or coil lug will force current to flow, and you can varify switch function correctly.
Rolf is VERY good at this kind of troubleshooting, and can guide you along.
I believe that may be the fastest way to resolve your issues.
By the way, just because I don't know, have you cleaned all the switches? tightened switch stacks? checked for loose switch contacts in the failing circuit?
I appreciate your contribution. I have cleaned, tightened and checked the switches. Probably a thousand times in the last two years.
In regards to the hot switch thru the coil. Forgive me. I don't understand. If it's closed while connected to the coil, how does it function ever? I'm a little unclear on your hit test instructions but I'll take some more time when I get home tonight. Just reading it quick over lunch.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
in post-9 I was asking about the Outhole-RELAY (not the Kicker). See on the bottom in the cabinet - the Outhole-RELAY - when the Score-Motor endlessly turns: Does the Outhole-Relay pull ? Does it pull steady means all the time ? does it pull intermittent )pull - let go - pull - let go - pull etc. ?
I looked uo in the schematics here http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=11 - the Up-Post / Down-Post - the Down-Post is actuated through a "Switch closed due to pulling Outhole-Relay".
Please look at the underneathside of the playfield - when a ball lies in the Outhole (above) then it closes a Switch - called "Outhole-Switch" --- question: is a blade bent and this switch is faulty closed ? How about on the side where the wires are soldered-on at the Switchblades ?
Please write about "Outhole-RELAY" when the Score-Motor runs endlessly, greetings Rolf
Outhole relay pulls steady (all the time) when a ball is in the trough at game over. During game it only comes on to kick the ball out then shuts off. Switch appears to be fine as the motor doesn't run and the relay releases when there's no ball on the switch. Switch tests fine with a meter as well.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Alan
thanks for the snippets of schematics.
Pauz21
look in the first snippet, JPG, post-17 --- a bit on the right, a bit below the middle: Make-and-Brake-Switch on Game-Over-Relay, the middle blade has wire-white-blue, outside-AAA-color-white-grey, outside-BBB-color-green-white.
Look in the second JPg, post-17 - it is "Switch-E on the Game-Over-Relay". Toggle-off the pin, unplug the 110VAC power cord. Have a close look at the switch - manually trip the relay - look at the switchblades, then latch then trip then latch then trip --- See the middle blade leaving BBB-green-white and then making contact to AAA-green-white (or the other way) ? ALSO look on the short side of the leaf blades where the wires are soldered-on - is one blade bent and make fauly contact ? Or a drop of solder has fallen there ? Greetings Rolf
I've taken the switches apart and can't see any faults. As mention before I clipped a wire on one and now the switch tested fine.
On the game over relay:
The green white blade and the white blue are shorted as you mentioned on switch E.
Switch C also shorts. Which is the tilt/game over light. Can't figure out how the game ever works with this issue.
As for the game relay:
Switch B. In circuit to reset relay is shorted.
As is switch C. In circuit to coin relay on 3 ball play.
Switch D. Same thing. Coin relay on 5 ball play.
Switch e good.
Switch F make break. Good.
I really can't see any solder issues.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
most likely You see no fault (there) - as there is no fault.
During play the Outhole-Relay acts nicely, at the end of a game You have fault-AA means the Outhole-Relay steady, constantly pulls - You have fault-BB means the Score-Motor turns - again and again and again - we say "motor turns endlessly, continuous" - You have fault-CC means the "Up-Post / Down-Post feature on the lower part of the playfield", "Down-post coil is actuated --- is actuated --- is actuated" rhythmically actuated.
Fault-CC is not a fault --- I believe Williams said: We (Williams) do not want to bother with an post beeing "UP" when the player starts a new game - we (Williams) therefore handle this feature at the end of a game. Chances are: Post is "UP", player looses the last ball through an Outlane (left or right) - so at the very end of the game we () fire a shot of electricity (through Switch to close on turning Score-Motor) to the Down-Coil - if this feature is already down: WHO cares - down is down.
Fault-CC is not a true fault --- it is a side-effect of fault-BB.
Fault-BB is not a fault --- I believe -because the Outhole-Relay is FAULTY-steady pulling / never let go: A "Switch to be closed when relay is pulling" does its job - switch closes / is closed and so lets the Score-Motor turn --- and as the relay NEVER let go: Motor turns endlessly.
Fault-BB is not a true fault --- it is a side-effect of fault-AA.
You have (99.99999%) proven WRONG my "whacky theory of fault beeing in the Make-and-Brake-Switch on Outhole-Relay" - see JPG: "whacky theory is the red line".
Please try: play a game and in the end the fault shows up --- NOW take the Ball OUT - so the "Outhole switch (marked-ciolet-dark-red)" OPENS ---
IF (if, if) "fault stays on" means Outhole-Relay keeps-on pulling, Score-motor keeps-on turning: We must investigate ONLY in my "green-wiring".
IF (if, if) "fault stops": We must investigate in "orange wiring and red wiring" - a good place to check: "IS the Ball-Count-Unit TRUELY in position Zero" means IS 'Switch named Ball Count Unit open at Zero' TRUELY open ?". Greetings Rolf
Bingo. You're a beauty Rolf!!!
Quoted from Pauz21:Bingo. You're a beauty Rolf!!!
» YouTube video
Score motor running problem is fixed. Game seems to operate perfectly. Sometimes. Still getting the occasional step up problem on reset as per video in post #7. In that case it worked. Others it doesn't. I'll see if I can catch a video of it not working right but it seems to be hit and miss.
1 week later
So... I didn't touch the game for a week. Flip it on. And the demon is back. Original problem from two years ago. Outhole doesn't kick out... motor just runs as the outhole relay clicks but won't hold.
If you drop it in the saucer while a joker selected it scores 4000 instead of 5000 but tries weakly to kick it out and fails.
If you drop it in the saucer with a face card selected it scores 1000 and doesn't even try to kick out.
This is the issue I dealt with for two friggin years. Then I dragged the game back home and set it up a few weeks back, it magically disappeared and presented the issues it had when I started this thread. Such a piece of garbage.
So... I didn't touch the game for a week. Flip it on. And the demon is back. Original problem from two years ago. Outhole doesn't kick out... motor just runs as the outhole relay clicks but won't hold.
If you drop it in the saucer while a joker selected it scores 4000 instead of 5000 but tries weakly to kick it out and fails.
If you drop it in the saucer with a face card selected it scores 1000 and doesn't even try to kick out.
This is the issue I dealt with for two friggin years. Then I dragged the game back home and set it up a few weeks back, it magically disappeared and presented the issues it had when I started this thread. Such a piece of garbage.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
Here I write about the "Outhole-Relay problem".
You made a good video. The Outhole-Relay pulls-in --- but faulty - immediately after pulling-in: The Relay lets go / quits pulling.
I show "stuff shown by P2K, Alan" - enriched - MY RED wiring, the VIOLET switch and the BROWN SCM-5C-Switch are in question (and - of course: also in question: connecting wires), greetings Rolf
Cleaned and adjusted that switch. Working for now. Blades are pretty pitted though. Can the individual blades be replaced or do you need to find a new 3 switch unit? It's working now but still weaker than it was before. But it's working
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
may I read from post-32 (?): The Outhole-Relay and the "Kicker to kick the Ball over to the Shooter-Alley (Ball-Return-Coil)" work ? What is the Eject-Hole-stuff doing ? Also fixed - or is the "video-2 in post-30 still valid" ? What is (post-32) "is working BUT WEAKER" ?
The Eject-RELAY works almost the same as the Outhole-Relay - it gets activated (look at JPG in post-31 "horizontal line - mostly 'green' ") - it has a Self-Hold-Switch*** connected to SCM-5C (I BELIEVE - I do NOT know).
(Outhole - ) Ball-Release is actuated through SCM-4A --- Eject (hole) Ball-Kicker is actuated through SCM-4B.
Want to inspect the "Self-Hold-Switch*** on Eject-RELAY" as this relay MUST stay pulling until SCM-5C opens --- stay pulling through ITS Self-Hold-Switch***.
Self-Hold-Switches*** are easy to be found in the pin: From the "Coil on relay" a short wire runs to "Switch mounted on the relay" --- THIS is the Self-Hold-Switch.
WRITE about Eject-Hole (problems (?)), greetings Rolf
Both are working. They seem to quit and work at the same time. At the moment the pin is working 100%. Here's hoping. Both the outhole and the eject aren't kickiing the ball as hard as I've seen them before but they are working. My plan is to leave it alone a few days and test again. Sitting idle is something this machine doesn't seem to like. If it continues to function properly after a week or so of testing / not testing I think I'll call this one fixed and return it to its owners.
Again. Very appreciative of all your help. My plan is to get more ems and I now know of one more excellent resource on pinside. Thank you.
In typical fashion with this piece of garbage machine just when everything is working wait a day. Now out of the blue it will not step down a ball when you drain so games never end. I have washed with the game open and the ball index relay is walking on when points are scored so that isn't the problem. I can't tell you how much I would like to burn this game to the ground. Then after a day of doing this I opened it up and by hand scored 3 extra balls. Drained. And now it's taking balls off again. Madness!
Quoted from Pauz21:In typical fashion with this piece of garbage machine just when everything is working wait a day. Now out of the blue it will not step down a ball when you drain so games never end. I have washed with the game open and the ball index relay is walking on when points are scored so that isn't the problem. I can't tell you how much I would like to burn this game to the ground. Then after a day of doing this I opened it up and by hand scored 3 extra balls. Drained. And now it's taking balls off again. Madness!
24 hours later. Not counting down balls again. Arrgghh
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
The ball is not kicked as hard as before ?
I show "stuff shown by P2K, Alan" - enriched - "MY green wiring" does activate the "Outhole-Kicker" - Williams calls this "Ball-Release (((Coil)))". A "Switch on Outhole-Relay" must securely close (Contact-Points on the blades clean ?) - see post-31, JPG - Outhole-Relay-Switch-D.
"Score-Motor-Cam-4-Switch-A" does close for a moment (when the motor makes a turn) - see post-34: SCM-4A.
Just guessing - in the JPG "here" - "MY red wiring": I believe to read +/- "to RED at F-31" - the POWER-Side-Connection shall be CUT when the Game comes to "Game-Over" - NO kicking the ball in state Game-Over (((for some reasons the Outhole-Relay pulls-in and the Score-Motor runs 'when reaching Game-Over'))) - just guessing.
For "not good kicking of 'Ball-Release' " I would look at / clean Outhole-Relay-Switch-D and SCM-4A.
The "Eject-Kicker" --- no schematics around --- but post-34 mentions SCM-4B --- so I would have a look at / clean "ALL Switches on Eject-RELAY" and SCM-4B.
We should play EM-pins regularly --- contact-points may oxidate when the pin is not played weeks / months. WHEN played: The "precios Self-Cleaning" does happen - in the other topic I already showed the link - I show it (here) again: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1965-bowl-a-strike-crazy-at-startup#post-3231326 - way down text starting "A general rule ..."
Greetings Rolf
Anyone have thoughts on the game notnstepping down when you lose a ball anymore. Been a couple days and it appears to no longer working off and on. It's not working.
I tried cleaning and adjusting the ball index blades. Nothing.
Cleaned and adjusted game relay switches. Nothing.
Cleaned and adjusted score motor switch bank 3 switch b which is regarding the ball index relay lock. Nothing.
The ball index relay does lock when points are scored like it should. And it does trip the game relay like it should.
Just won't step down a ball anymore. Thoughts.
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:coil good? chk the wires commin from the coil to the lug, good n tight solder?
switches all solid? I mean, the contact heads can come loose, and will be intermittent.
you may be able to see this, if you look at the top of a switch contact, where it is crimped.
it may look like a flower, kinda. I mean, black smoke lookin lines commin out from the crimp.
to test, take a NEW exacto blade, and touch it to the side of the contact, and push/pull lightly.
if the contact is loose, it will roll with the blade, because it cuts into it, slightly.
you may also have a jones plug issue.
or, a frayed wire along the way.
or, maybe a switch contact mis aligned with its mate. causing high resistance. so if the switch closes/opens too quickly, may not be providing enuf current to fire the coil all the way.
Don't think theres an issue with the coil as it steps down and back up on reset. It's just during a game. I think Rolf should have me pointed in the right direction... hopefully. I was just trying to figure out what switch controlled the in game step down. Thanks for the reply.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
from post-17, thanks to Alan, P2K - the "green wiring" is during play (Ball Count step down) - the "blue wiring" is at Start-Up (?), greetings Rolf
Ok. So heres what I took from this and what i did.
Based on what you told me I tried to see if there was a broken connection. I used my multimeter to test continuity from the ball count reset coil to the Jones plug (both male and female connectors). All good.
Then I tested the continuity from the male jones plug to the ball index relay. Nothing.
Then I was looking at the pic you posted again and wondered if it should have been tested to the game relay. So I did that. Continuity from male jones plug to switch F on the game relay. I had continuity.
Then I tried to test game relay F back to ball index relay C. Nothing.
For curiosity sake I ran a jumper from the male jones plug to switch c on the ball index relay. Tried the game. Ball count steps down when the outhole switch is activated. But everytime... which isn't right.
What I mean by that is on reset the game resets and spits a ball out. When it does that it's down to 2 balls left. So it lowers a ball on game start. Each drain lowers a ball count but when you have no balls left it continues to kick a ball out and not go to game over. So I don't believe the jumper is correct.
Tried a jumper from game relay F to ball index relay C. Tried the game. Resets proper. Still 3 balls left. Scored points. Drained. It lowers a ball. But what last ball drains it keeps kicking them out and doesn't go to game over.
Clearly I'm in the right area but not going to right direction. Thoughts.
1 week later
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
other pinsiders like to use a "meter" to test for continuity. I say: There are many connections - maybe we measure "all the way around through the wires wound in the transformer" and get the result "continuity" --- but its not through THERE where we think the connection is / should be.
I show a type of testing with TWO Jumper-Wires - I call it "De Luxe Jumpering (my words)". I want to be part of the "logic in the pin" - a friend may help, he does manually activate switches - he simulates "play". AT THE TIME some stuff should happen: I FORCE it (happen) by temporary hold together the ends of my TWO Jumper-Wires. I start with looooong distance Jumper - if the pin shows the wanted reaction: In the next test I do the jumpering "a bit shorter". If still the wanted reaction : Shorter and shorter - I narrow down on the problem. Once I get "No reaction": I am at the place of the problem.
Toggle-off, unplug the 110 VAC power cord (safety reasons). Clip-on a Jumper-Wire at "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" - lead the Jumper-Wire around the many relays units - free - take the other end (through the open coin door) into the open --- hanging free, not touching a thing.
Clip-on another Jumper-Wire (example: at "violet 'P' ") and also take the other end into the open - not touching a thing.
Plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - Your friend does simulate "playing" --- when it is the time the pin should step down on Ball Count: YOU hold together the ends "A" and "B1".
Next test: Unplug 110VAC - change the Clip-on Point from "P" to "Q" --- then do "A - B2" (((we do not know how in reality in the pin the wiring truely is))). Then "A - B3" etc. Work Yourself through the stuff.
You may change the Clip-on Point from "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" to "W" , then to "V", "U" ...
(((Maybe You have to clean Score-Motor-Switch-3A - maybe You must put an permanent jumper in the pin connecting "R" to "Q or P" ?))) greetings Rolf
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
other pinsiders like to use a "meter" to test for continuity. I say: There are many connections - maybe we measure "all the way around through the wires wound in the transformer" and get the result "continuity" --- but its not through THERE where we think the connection is / should be.
I show a type of testing with TWO Jumper-Wires - I call it "De Luxe Jumpering (my words)". I want to be part of the "logic in the pin" - a friend may help, he does manually activate switches - he simulates "play". AT THE TIME some stuff should happen: I FORCE it (happen) by temporary hold together the ends of my TWO Jumper-Wires. I start with looooong distance Jumper - if the pin shows the wanted reaction: In the next test I do the jumpering "a bit shorter". If still the wanted reaction : Shorter and shorter - I narrow down on the problem. Once I get "No reaction": I am at the place of the problem.
Toggle-off, unplug the 110 VAC power cord (safety reasons). Clip-on a Jumper-Wire at "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" - lead the Jumper-Wire around the many relays units - free - take the other end (through the open coin door) into the open --- hanging free, not touching a thing.
Clip-on another Jumper-Wire (example: at "violet 'P' ") and also take the other end into the open - not touching a thing.
Plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - Your friend does simulate "playing" --- when it is the time the pin should step down on Ball Count: YOU hold together the ends "A" and "B1".
Next test: Unplug 110VAC - change the Clip-on Point from "P" to "Q" --- then do "A - B2" (((we do not know how in reality in the pin the wiring truely is))). Then "A - B3" etc. Work Yourself through the stuff.
You may change the Clip-on Point from "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" to "W" , then to "V", "U" ...
(((Maybe You have to clean Score-Motor-Switch-3A - maybe You must put an permanent jumper in the pin connecting "R" to "Q or P" ?))) greetings Rolf
Sorry for the delayed response... been a little busy with the Christmas season and all.
Here's the latest update. Because I'd been pretty busy I hadn't really had time to get back inside this machine for a week or so I was basically just playing it often as I could to see if it acted the same way consistently or if it was not. Basically what I found is at times, a ball going in to the outhole would be kicked back out with absolutely no reaction from the step down coil at all. Other times, it would quiver like it was trying to step down but it wasn't being pulled in enough to do it, and other times it would seem to actually accomplish the goal. This lead me to believe that perhaps it's a bad ground.
So finally tonight I thought I would try your test.
Test 1 - Jumper on P... Other Jumper on Transformer yellow lug. Touch together and BAM... it steps down.
Test 2 P to Q, A to B2 - Perhaps I was connected wrong but no reaction.
Test 3 P to Q and another jumper from A to B3. Game seems to be working correctly. I then for curiosity sake removed the P to Q jumper and just left A to B3 and it still seems to work. Now I don't know if that means it's just working because it felt like working for now or if that is the issue. So I'm going to leave A to B3 for a couple days of game play and see how consistent it operates. I did not continue on to B4, B5 B6 B7 and B8 as I thought I may have identified the issue.
Thoughts?
Pauz
Quoted from Pauz21:Sorry for the delayed response... been a little busy with the Christmas season and all.
Here's the latest update. Because I'd been pretty busy I hadn't really had time to get back inside this machine for a week or so I was basically just playing it often as I could to see if it acted the same way consistently or if it was not. Basically what I found is at times, a ball going in to the outhole would be kicked back out with absolutely no reaction from the step down coil at all. Other times, it would quiver like it was trying to step down but it wasn't being pulled in enough to do it, and other times it would seem to actually accomplish the goal. This lead me to believe that perhaps it's a bad ground.
So finally tonight I thought I would try your test.
Test 1 - Jumper on P... Other Jumper on Transformer yellow lug. Touch together and BAM... it steps down.
Test 2 P to Q, A to B2 - Perhaps I was connected wrong but no reaction.
Test 3 P to Q and another jumper from A to B3. Game seems to be working correctly. I then for curiosity sake removed the P to Q jumper and just left A to B3 and it still seems to work. Now I don't know if that means it's just working because it felt like working for now or if that is the issue. So I'm going to leave A to B3 for a couple days of game play and see how consistent it operates. I did not continue on to B4, B5 B6 B7 and B8 as I thought I may have identified the issue.
Thoughts?
Pauz
Since I have it working with just A to B3 would that confirm ground issue likely being the problem?
Quoted from Pauz21:Sorry for the delayed response... been a little busy with the Christmas season and all.
Here's the latest update. Because I'd been pretty busy I hadn't really had time to get back inside this machine for a week or so I was basically just playing it often as I could to see if it acted the same way consistently or if it was not. Basically what I found is at times, a ball going in to the outhole would be kicked back out with absolutely no reaction from the step down coil at all. Other times, it would quiver like it was trying to step down but it wasn't being pulled in enough to do it, and other times it would seem to actually accomplish the goal. This lead me to believe that perhaps it's a bad ground.
So finally tonight I thought I would try your test.
Test 1 - Jumper on P... Other Jumper on Transformer yellow lug. Touch together and BAM... it steps down.
Test 2 P to Q, A to B2 - Perhaps I was connected wrong but no reaction.
Test 3 P to Q and another jumper from A to B3. Game seems to be working correctly. I then for curiosity sake removed the P to Q jumper and just left A to B3 and it still seems to work. Now I don't know if that means it's just working because it felt like working for now or if that is the issue. So I'm going to leave A to B3 for a couple days of game play and see how consistent it operates. I did not continue on to B4, B5 B6 B7 and B8 as I thought I may have identified the issue.
Thoughts?
Pauz
And the next morning... it doesn't work again. With or without jumper connected. ugh.
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
other pinsiders like to use a "meter" to test for continuity. I say: There are many connections - maybe we measure "all the way around through the wires wound in the transformer" and get the result "continuity" --- but its not through THERE where we think the connection is / should be.
I show a type of testing with TWO Jumper-Wires - I call it "De Luxe Jumpering (my words)". I want to be part of the "logic in the pin" - a friend may help, he does manually activate switches - he simulates "play". AT THE TIME some stuff should happen: I FORCE it (happen) by temporary hold together the ends of my TWO Jumper-Wires. I start with looooong distance Jumper - if the pin shows the wanted reaction: In the next test I do the jumpering "a bit shorter". If still the wanted reaction : Shorter and shorter - I narrow down on the problem. Once I get "No reaction": I am at the place of the problem.
Toggle-off, unplug the 110 VAC power cord (safety reasons). Clip-on a Jumper-Wire at "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" - lead the Jumper-Wire around the many relays units - free - take the other end (through the open coin door) into the open --- hanging free, not touching a thing.
Clip-on another Jumper-Wire (example: at "violet 'P' ") and also take the other end into the open - not touching a thing.
Plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - Your friend does simulate "playing" --- when it is the time the pin should step down on Ball Count: YOU hold together the ends "A" and "B1".
Next test: Unplug 110VAC - change the Clip-on Point from "P" to "Q" --- then do "A - B2" (((we do not know how in reality in the pin the wiring truely is))). Then "A - B3" etc. Work Yourself through the stuff.
You may change the Clip-on Point from "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" to "W" , then to "V", "U" ...
(((Maybe You have to clean Score-Motor-Switch-3A - maybe You must put an permanent jumper in the pin connecting "R" to "Q or P" ?))) greetings Rolf
I should have followed your instructions to the end. See above Re cleaning score motor 3A. That wasn't the right one. It was actually the stack beside it but that fixed the issue.
I swear this is my last question.
Everything has worked good for the better part of a week now. One issue I see is the 10,000 point score doesn't reset well. The coil moves a bit but not enough to turn the wheel sometimes. So often times it clicks away for a while to reset that one wheel. I've cleaned the contacts on the 10,000 point relay and the reset relay. Not getting any better. Is there something on the score reel unit itself that could improve this. It works but I anticipate it quitting at some point given the fact it's struggling with reset now.
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