Swift Current, SK
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:Hi Pauz21
other pinsiders like to use a "meter" to test for continuity. I say: There are many connections - maybe we measure "all the way around through the wires wound in the transformer" and get the result "continuity" --- but its not through THERE where we think the connection is / should be.
I show a type of testing with TWO Jumper-Wires - I call it "De Luxe Jumpering (my words)". I want to be part of the "logic in the pin" - a friend may help, he does manually activate switches - he simulates "play". AT THE TIME some stuff should happen: I FORCE it (happen) by temporary hold together the ends of my TWO Jumper-Wires. I start with looooong distance Jumper - if the pin shows the wanted reaction: In the next test I do the jumpering "a bit shorter". If still the wanted reaction : Shorter and shorter - I narrow down on the problem. Once I get "No reaction": I am at the place of the problem.
Toggle-off, unplug the 110 VAC power cord (safety reasons). Clip-on a Jumper-Wire at "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" - lead the Jumper-Wire around the many relays units - free - take the other end (through the open coin door) into the open --- hanging free, not touching a thing.
Clip-on another Jumper-Wire (example: at "violet 'P' ") and also take the other end into the open - not touching a thing.
Plug-in, toggle-on, start a game - Your friend does simulate "playing" --- when it is the time the pin should step down on Ball Count: YOU hold together the ends "A" and "B1".
Next test: Unplug 110VAC - change the Clip-on Point from "P" to "Q" --- then do "A - B2" (((we do not know how in reality in the pin the wiring truely is))). Then "A - B3" etc. Work Yourself through the stuff.
You may change the Clip-on Point from "Transformer-Lug-Yellow" to "W" , then to "V", "U" ...
(((Maybe You have to clean Score-Motor-Switch-3A - maybe You must put an permanent jumper in the pin connecting "R" to "Q or P" ?))) greetings Rolf
I should have followed your instructions to the end. See above Re cleaning score motor 3A. That wasn't the right one. It was actually the stack beside it but that fixed the issue.
I swear this is my last question.
Everything has worked good for the better part of a week now. One issue I see is the 10,000 point score doesn't reset well. The coil moves a bit but not enough to turn the wheel sometimes. So often times it clicks away for a while to reset that one wheel. I've cleaned the contacts on the 10,000 point relay and the reset relay. Not getting any better. Is there something on the score reel unit itself that could improve this. It works but I anticipate it quitting at some point given the fact it's struggling with reset now.
Aarau
