First time question: Ok I have been fixing up my Williams 1974 Lucky Ace machine. Anyway I am down to one issue. I rebuilt all the rollover buttons due to them sticking down when the ball rolled over them, they actually had a grease like dirt in them. I had to take them apart to clean. I adjusted the buttons so they barely protruded, for low ball diversion. However when the ball rolls over them the light will go out as it should, but very rarely will it go slow enough to lock in the 50 pt relay to make the proper score and sound. Most of the time I will get maybe 10 pts , sometimes score motor will start but I can't get the relay to lock in quick enough. I tried making the roll overs protrude higher, with no luck. I tried getting the 50 pt relay contacts as close as possible to lock in quicker. I have tried making sure the NC in the 50 Pt circuit on the score motor is making clean contact. Still no improvement. I miss the consistent sound of the 50 pt chimes while playing I almost would prefer them to stick (not really). Any pointers? I know it will never be perfect but it needs to be better. Thanks -Bill

Yep everything is good with the wiring. I will try again to get the gaps closer on the locking switch of the 50 pt relay and try to get the gaps closer on the roll over switches too. I don't know how close is too close until I try. Does anyone have a good spec on the what the gaps should be? The only gap specs in the manual are for the coin door which I don't use since I have the coin lockout circuit change installed. Who knows I may end up replacing or swapping the switches with another relays, when the roll over used to stick the 50 pt relay was on for longer than it should be. I will Grab a picture of the gaps before and after and let you know what happens.

It stays once it locks in. BTW how do I post without quoting a previous post? I don't see where to do that.

Well yes when I use my finger to push the roll over down or the ball goes over real slow. It just takes too much contact time before it locks in.

Anyway I took all the switches off, man were they dirty. I cleaned them and will finish adjusting them tomorrow or the next day and solder them back in. Pictures will follow of what I did. I also readjusted the roll over buttons so they do not protrude as high on the playfield. The ball was deviating too much with them higher on the playfield.

Ok so here is my progress. As I said before the contacts were filthy. Before contacts (resized).jpg So I cleaned and adjusted them. 20210323_220743_HDR (resized).jpg InkedBefore_LI (resized).jpg Inked20210323_222013_HDR_LI (resized).jpg When I said I adjusted the roll overs, what I meant to say is I set them as close to what they were originally. Since the roll-over buttons stems were slightly different from the originals. I.E. they move the same amount up and down. Inked2_LI (resized).jpg Inked3_LI (resized).jpgI included a picture of the 50 pts relay. Inked4_LI (resized).jpg So after all that It still only slightly better. I get a few more times the relay locks in but not many more. As before all the relays that shut off the lights work but not the 50 pt all the time. I will try to get the roll-over contacts even closer but I think I will try switching the 50pt relay contacts with contacts from a lesser used relay.

Ok Thanks for the ideas I will look at it tomorrow. I think the contacts on the 50pt are rough because the roll-overs used to stick. I assume you mean I can check the blade contact by trying to make it move on the blade (or leaf). As I said before worst case I will switch the blades with blades from a lesser used one, possibly one of the special relays or the number match relay (I don't use that no point). Does anyone still make new relay blades?

Of course what doesn't he have? (Except for yellow tinted #44 according to his website) Thanks

Side question do the colored light silicon sleeves work on #44's? Might be better than buying colored #44's. I plan on using them on the backglass since mine has some see through spots on it.

Yep PBR has some colors he accidentally sent me a box of red ones which I ended up using. Pinball Life has yellow 47's and blue 44's & 47's
And of course the colored #44 LEDs.

Ok so here is what happened, I cleaned the 50Pt contacts, one was rough I did have to use a file. That helped alot. Then I said what the heck I cleaned the NC contact on the score motor stack and that did the trick. The relay makes and holds like it is supposed too. Works great. Thanks everyone!

Of course I have another problem now which will be the subject of a different thread. Let's just say don't touch the score motor stacks unless you have to. LOL