(Topic ID: 147356)

Williams 1963 Major League Restoration - Complete


By SteveinTexas

3 years ago



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    #1 3 years ago

    Williams Major League Flyer

    I have started my next restore project which is a pair of 63 Major League baseball games. I think this game is so cool.

    My plan is to totally restore these games and give these games to my son and daughter as they have now left the nest, they enjoy playing the games especially my 62 World Series bat game. They won’t be able to fix them so they will need to call me and my bat girl (mom) in from time to time to visit ha! My son is now at college in Austin so that game will probably get some abuse and need more regular maintenance.

    I have been corresponding with others about this game. Some are restoring also and going through some of the same issues to make or find parts and other challenges. Spencer (nighthawk128) who has made his own back glass and chromed a bunch of parts has repainted his cabinet and it looks the bomb. I am making another front moulding and associated bat lever hardware for one of his neighbors and they will be discussed how here. Hey Spencer show us your game and back glass.

    So if this is one of your possible upcoming project restores please join in the conversation, the more ideas the better. All decals I make can be made available along with any fabrication drawings of front mouldings, bats and bat assemblies. Also stencil masters etc.

    Game Overview

    Back in the day if you were a 62 World Series playing wiz you may have been momentarily disappointed when the Major League game was rolled out, the cabinet was nice. However, the playfield and gameplay had been simplified and seemed to be dumbed down. The playfield scoring and trap holes were gone and now you only see one ball ramp on the playfield not the three lite red plastic ramps. The back glass seems to have less happening as well. On second review this game is no chump just a little different, there is now a big home run target and articulated targets to aim for like gun games.

    This target assembly was a fun change and probably an expensive addition for Williams to the games. The playfield simplification was a cost offset for sure, coupled with simplified ball return metal ducting under the playfield and removal of the red lite ramps. The game play focus had changed in favor of home runs and extended innings, dropping the grand slam letter lighting bonus that spanned through multiple plays.

    From my review the 63 Major League motorized target assembly lasted only for about 2 years and 4 games thru 64 and then it was revamped to a simpler less expensive switch actuated arrangement in 65 on the Double Play and onwards thru 73. Another major change was it now operated on 24 volts not 50 volts. It seems like a new engineering team was assigned to redesign the Major League on review of the schematics, as it was quite different under the hood from years before.

    Obtaining Parts for Bat Games

    So what is usually broken or missing? Until most recently this game has suffered from ‘unobtainium’ parts syndrome namely the back glass and home run plastic. However, Bgresto are making the back glass and I am a resource for a passable homerun plastic. I think the value of this game is a tad low currently due to the absence of these crucial parts, time will tell if its value will come in line with other games of this period now these parts are available as it is a fun game.

    I had only one back glass and that is badly faded so two back glasses are needed. This had been put in the works a few months prior and the back glasses are currently on order with Bgresto and will be received in plenty of time. When Steve finishes the artwork tweaks a few of us will be getting our new back glasses and I will post pic’s of them here to see.
    Unobtanium_Parts_No_More_2.jpgParts with exception of the background from Pinball Rescue in Australia were until recently unobtanium.

    The cardboard running man background is usually trashed. Only one of mine was in good shape but we can get remakes from ’Pinball Rescue’ down under http://www.pinballrescue.net/Backbox_Scenery.html I had ordered ahead two last year when working on my last bat game. Be warned although the repro is of excellent quality it’s expensive and does not include the needed background sides. I scanned the side parts of the new background and printed on picture quality paper last time and will do again this time too. Also they are 1 /2” short in height but they will do. So nothing else too expensive seemed to stand out.

    Other parts that I have issues with are the front moulding, bat levers and bat units. All need some parts, or decals to spruce them up.
    Target_Decal.jpgTarget Decals

    Frint_Moulding.jpgScanned and edited Decal

    Bat_Lever_Assemblies.jpgBat Lever Assemblies

    This is probably a good opportunity to mention other needed bat game parts that were once unavailable but now are thanks to people in the hobby here on Pinside. The bat lever and some associated accessories has been remade by Scott Webb (G43crazy). He also makes the playfield side rubber, pitch buttons and some rare bumper rubber stops for the lever located under the moulding. Here are some of his links;

    Bat_Lever_.jpghttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-bat-parts-for-williams-baseball-machines#post-2736529
    D_Rubber.jpghttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baseball-pitch-and-bat-d-shaped-playfield-rubber#post-2730462

    buttons.jpghttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-anodized-start-and-pitch-buttons-for-williams#post-2235192

    Here are the best pictures I could find from the IPDB site, and on the web. Not sexy pictures and it should have chrome chromed legs I think.

    Best Pic’s I could find …ugh!63_Major_League_Bat_Game.jpg ML_Pic_2.jpg

    #2 3 years ago

    DSC04217.jpgMy two 63 ML games

    After my recent 62 World Series bat game restore project it should be straightforward as what could go wrong. It’s a fun game to play and visitors enjoy when I had one up and running. My lesson hopefully learned for this project is to not to listen to the voice in my head that says “you don’t need pictures, you will remember where the stuff all goes”.

    How did I get two games? I bought one of eBay and picked it up in Tampa, Florida. Its 1,000 miles one way back to home, I must be nuts. As I mentioned I restored a basket case 62 World Series Bat game last year and thought this game being only being a year younger would help as a reference during the rebuild. However the games are nothing like each other under the hood and it was in very poor condition, my stupid again.

    The second game I got from Dennis Dodel. He already has a very good 63 Major League so I guess this was one of his projects. Dennis had helped me with my World Series game restore and has become a friend. He had somewhat given up getting a back glass for this game over the years and offered it to me at a good price. Dennis’s game is in good condition except for the lack of a back glass, a back door and a homerun plastic. I made a cross country trip last fall to pick up multiple games the last from Dennis. The eBay found game is a basket case and without drastic restore measures it was destined to be a parts machine.

    Pre Restoration Review

    I moved my games from storage to the garage for restoration. First impression was gosh they stink after being sealed up all summer, not at all pleasant like people romanced about EM games in a recent topic.
    Cabinets.jpgThe games post rescue from storage

    One games cabinet had been repainted and apparently with little concern for correctness. It had considerable de-lamination issues on the bottom edges and front panel and needs plenty of wood repair. The paint would not come off without the original paint when tested so it needed a paint removal and redo. The picture above shows the painted game in the background after I had spent a lot of time trying to uncover the original paint to make stencils under the paint over. The game in the foreground is the one from Dennis which I received later and I was able to make the stencils from.

    I procrastinate making the working stencils and this slows down my restores. As well as the base color and the strange splatter there are three other colors on the game sides and one on the front panel. So three per side and one for the front is 13 stencils to make per game, groan…. The painting is fun though.
    Stencil_Masters.jpgCabinet Stencil Masters

    Dennis’s game was in much better condition but as I was going to have to strip and paint one game anyway I decided to do both. If games have been stored in non-heated or cooled locations for years the paint is usually chalking and peeling and frankly I don’t store games any differently either.

    This time I plan to do the painting of the game’s first not last. This I figure will get the smell to dissipate quicker and more importantly if the cabinets are ready I can put the assemblies back in the game as I clean and complete their restore minimizing the needed work space. But this means I need to make the stencils earlier that later.

    These bat games are easy to work on as they were made with an assembly line mentality as discrete assemblies and then placed in the cabinet housing and hooked up. Behind the plastic home run target there is the target assembly. Most of the guts in the lower cabinet are on a relay board and the remainder mounts with the exception of some bells to the underside of the playfield along with the door and front moulding sub-assemblies. The upper cabinet houses two separate assemblies, the running man and the light/ score reel unit. Sub-assemblies are retained by just a couple of screws and once removed one person can pull out of the game safely for working on a bench.
    DSC04227.jpgLower cabinet; playfield and relay boards

    DSC03996.jpgLower cabinet; target assemblies

    DSC04328.jpgUpper cabinet; running man and light, score reel assemblies

    I started stripping the cabinets to get a better look at the games and in a couple of hours the assemblies, front moldings, hardware and the doors etc were out. Working on two machines means that my work space is now a premium and soon I had piles of dirty stuff loosely sorted, so space management was an issue already.

    Game Motors Review; the game has four motors; Control, pitching, target driver and the running man. I had motor issues on both my last two restores a 62 World Series bat game and a Nags. These bat games have a combined 8 motors so issues are possible. I have gathered spare bench transformers for testing motors out of a game. Whether they are working is important but you need to review the motors to see if they are the correct one for the game and if not, are they a viable substitute. I made a spreadsheet to help me find suitable substitute motors and parts and posted to Pinside as a baseball technical support topic https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-baseball-game-motor-coils-and-bat-assembly-information#post-2788508

    Using this information I was able to review the motorized units and assemblies.

    Control motor; is rarely an issue, other than being dirty and needing a lube and these are fine.
    14A-7746_Score_Mtor.jpgControl Motor under the control cams assembly

    Target Unit motors; on review I found one that is not as original. This is on the game I had played the heck out of for a while it has a 10 RPM geared motor not a 14 RPM geared motor. It has a cam on each end of the shaft a larger motor coil. The motor double shaft is not uncommon an arrangement and any motor with RPM’s That are close like this one should be suitable if you need a substitute. I will rebuild the target assembly later in the topic.

    Target_Motor.jpgCorrect Target Motor and has Cams on each end of the shaft.

    Running man Unit motor; it was toast on my last game and was the reason the game was taken out of service. It takes some work to strip this motor out of the game and has a unique gear shaft with a ball bearing in one end to rotate the running men mechanism and the other to drive cams. This makes it a bad candidate for exchanging out with a non-running man motor. With this in mind I have picked up spares on eBay over the past year for both 24 and 50 Volt operating games so I am not overly concerned to strip them out further to review until it’s time to work on them.
    E-5420_Running_Man.jpgRunning_Man_Motor.jpg
    Running Man motor has cams one end of the shaft and a special ball bearing on the other

    Pitching Unit; it’s common to find substitute motors on your game. They are the work horse motor in the game and on review neither of mine are original. However, I find this again is not an issue as long as the RPM’s are close. On this game the motor should have a heavy duty motor coil, be 24 Volts with 17 RPM gears. As these are now home games the standard motor coil should work fine for a long time if substituted.

    One pitching motor I had repaired last year by Steve Young (PBR) personally (scribed his initials on the casing). He replaced a 50 volt motor coil with a 24 volt coil and a new clutch gear. The motor coil exchanged was a standard frame and he told me it may not work for this application. It does work but his concern is valid if the game is played continuously as the coil could burn out or as a minimum stall. The second game has currently a different motor that states has 28 RPM gearing. I was able recently to find the correct NOS pitching motor for the game. I looked most days for motors on eBay over the past 9 months, for hard to find parts. Do not knock eBay for finding parts.

    On the Major League the pitching assembly is an E-5813, it’s the tension spring that matters for the pitching speed. The spring fires the ball at one speed fast. The pitching assembly slow the pitches with a ‘brake pad’ assembly that rubs against a metal wheel during the pitch. This effectively slowing down the pitch. A relay is ‘randomly’ energized to lift the brake off occasionally generating the fast ball.

    Pitching_Unit.jpg
    Pitching_Motor.jpgPitching Unit showing the closed gearbox motor.

    Batting Units and Assemblies Review

    Typical_110_V_Batting_Unit.pngTypical 110V Bat Unit

    The Batting Unit; may not be original, only one of mine is. Again this is not too important as the Williams unit has not changed much from the early 50’s through to the Slugfest in the 90’s. They all work in a similar fashion and parts for a Slugfest game being available still from Marco Specialties they can be interchanged with no additional rework. A link to a ‘how to’ technical support topic is attached if you need to fix up your bat assembly. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-1883604

    Hacks; one game had a few other hacks including an additional 50 volt transformer fitted solely to drive an incorrect voltage pitching motor (this is now my bench 50 Volt tester). Another hack in this game was an isolation switch cut into the front of the cabinet. I don’t know why people do these things.
    Hack_switch_repair.jpgHack Switch repair

    Relays and Solenoids; the bottom board had no obvious relays or solenoids that needed replacing, so that is good. The score reels however had darkened windings and the sleeve was wedged in so some overheating had occurred. I will change these out.

    I need to review the woodwork next.

    #4 3 years ago

    Woodwork Review

    Front Moulding; Generally this wooden front rail really shows its age. It needs to be replaced on most games but the Formica top replacement stops people attempting this. Replacing it may be possible however using a decal and covering in a hard clear coat. To this end I have scanned the moulding surface and have brought it into Illustrator and Photoshop for cleaning up the image I am not that proficient with these software programs but am quite stubborn so was able to make a decal that is way better that what I have now. I plan to fix up the original front moldings and use the decal to finish this work. More on this repair topic later.
    Frint_Moulding_(resized).JPGScanned and edited decal

    New_and_old_Front_Mouldings_(resized).JPGNew blank and existing Front Mouldings

    Let’s start Restoring

    The lower cabinets were stripped of their old paint. I usually sand the paint off but the repainted cabinet was taking a lot of work so I tried some stripper to speed this one up. This makes things messy but it did the trick. The paint was covering a lot of dings and scraps and getting paint out of crevices is not productive as we will only fill again with bondo prior repainting. I burned out the black and decker sander so had to replace. I found one at Harbor Freight and somewhat regret buying it. It does not have the same power but as we know the price was right.
    Sanding_the_paint_off_(resized).JPGStarting the paint removal on the better cabinet

    The top cabinet had ply separation plus damage to the wood at the locks were people had forced the game open. You notice the side art when playing so spend some time repairing the wood prior painting it pays off.

    Top_cabinet_Prior_Painting_(resized).JPGPaint mostly removed using 60 grit paper.

    Damage to the bottom of the cabinet was evident on one game the bottom was almost falling out. It also had delamination issues and a new front panel was considered. You may get a little minor surface wood lifting where the wood may be already delaminating. But as I am going to be adding bondo to surface imperfections and re-sanding before resealing so not an issue for me. I first cleaned up the existing edge removing the damaged existing ply edge for replacement. I ripped some new edging from a sheet of 3 plywood and glue and nailed them into position as the picture. You can paint or leave bare I elect to paint.
    Cabinet_Bottom_repair_(resized).JPGGluing and pinning the cabinet bottom edge

    Before I get down to the repairs I noticed this game still smelled, probably of mold, beer and tar. I don’t always do this but when I do I clean the cabinets with bleach and water. It takes a few days to dry the wood and I have found little harm from this wash.
    DSC04257_(resized).JPGCabinets after their bleach wash and rinse.

    The overall condition of the upper cabinets was no better than the lower cabinets. The wood is 1/2” thick on the upper cabinet not 3/4” thick as the lower cabinet. The upper cabinet had many small splits in the grain not seen on the lower cabinet that needed filling with bondo along with rebuilding the wood edges. This is the time you need to use your patience as the preparation is the key to a good looking paint job. You see these splits in the grain over time as the wood dries out especially in the back door as is only 3/8" thick. Again I fill these splits with bondo before the sealer/primer stage, if you don’t you will probably see them again a few months from now in your newly painted cabinets and back doors due to temperature changes.

    There was only one back door but these are simple to make and I had blanks ready. The upper cabinets got the bleach and rinse down treatment.

    Being South Texas we can usually work outside all year round. However since middle October through Thanksgiving it has rained or got too cold to paint most weekends. Good news however, as I wait beer consumption remains unaffected.

    DSC04319_(resized).JPGUpper cabinet oak trim

    #5 3 years ago

    6 Days to Xmas; so finally the weather seems to be cooperating and I can put my ‘spray booth up’.
    DSC04352_(resized).JPGCrude Paint booth but seems to work.

    I use the PPG Shop line paint products. I used a white primer because of the light color basecoat. They girls recommended an epoxy JB-371. I got a quart and you mix with a compatible 50% hardener. It covered both games with not a drop left. I use a Pantone solids color swatch book to figure out the color match from the games and they borrow the book and mix the different acrylic urethane base paints perfectly by eye. Make sure if you go this way you don’t get too little paint as once I believe they mixed an extra batch with their other eye. The colors are mixed 100% with a urethane reducer so get a gallon of that too.

    Auto_Spray_Paint_(resized).JPGPaint for two games less the primer and hardener as used and binned.

    For both games I got the following paint;
    • 1 quart of JB-371 epoxy primer.
    • 1 pint of hardener JB-3770
    • 2 quarts Base Paint off white mix JB-B1
    • 1 quart of an orange mix JB1
    • 1 pint of an tan mix JB-B1
    • 1 pint of an black JB-B1
    • 1 gallon of Urethane Reducer

    Cost was $278 with tax. That’s a little north of $150 per game (4 colors not 3) if you include your clear and other sundries like rags, mixing cups, and gloves etc.

    Still 6 days to Xmas; note you will need to apply a gloss clear coat as these are a matt finish paint. With my set up I was able to apply the primer and base in one day. The following paint colors as we are using stencils I recommend you wait a day between different overlapping colors so they don’t lift when removing the stencils. Take your time is the message.

    Epoxy_primer_coat_(resized).JPGEpoxy Primer first coat drying in the sun.
    DSC04355_(resized).JPGBase Coat applied 2 coats Flat spray if possible
    Cabinet_base_coat._(resized).JPGCabinet base coat 2 thin coats applied- watch for runs.

    5 days to Xmas; the family is getting into the holiday mood, I will too when this painting is done. No one offers to help with the stencils. Williams originally applied to the base color the most difficult to replicate hairy splatter. Not webbing or dots. On this game it is a red/orange color hairy finish and I am in trouble. I have tried enamel, acrylic, in a HVLP gun and with splatter brushes and others. I have thickened with glue but it’s for me impossible. So no choice left I need to cheat. Where is the wife? Bet she can do it.

    Well she agreed to stop Xmas baking for a while and help her little man. She made a better attempt than me so this step is done. Now on to making 26 + stencils and finish painting the cabinets.

    4 days to Xmas. I have procrastinated again and the stencils are not made. First stencil color after the primer, base color coat and the orange splatter is the tan. This was 10 stencils to draw and cut out worked all day and only got the first ten made and cut out.

    I use some tacky repositioning spray and again with my wife’s assistance to apply them I was ready to paint. Painting takes no more than 15 seconds total to apply 3 light coats over 15 minutes and done. 10 minutes later peel off the stencil and on to the next side.

    3 days to Xmas, stencils prepared and cut out. Get wife to help me apply and then time to paint.
    second_color_applied_(resized).JPGThe tan color came out well.

    second_color_to_lower_cabinet_applied_(resized).JPGCorner edges lined up surprise surprise….

    We have to leave further painting until the next day as the stencils WILL rip up the previous day’s coat. Guess how I know. Also I need to make the next day’s bloody stencils.

    2 days to Xmas; 8 stencils drawn and cut out for the orange color and I was ready to apply.
    3rd_Color_applied_(resized).JPGThey came out well. A bugger to apply but the wife keeps stepping up and helping.
    Some_used_stencils_(resized).JPGI am starting to make a pile of one use stencils.

    Its Xmas eve. Made more stencils last night, gosh I really hate making stencils did I say that before.
    final_paint_pre_clear_(resized).JPGBlack color mixed, stencils made, cut out and applied. Let’s spray!
    Final_paint_color_upper_cabinet_(resized).JPGTop boxes came out well. I am very pleased with the outcome and only a few touchups to fix. Some paint creep to fix and a few alignment errors to fix. This will take only a few hours but not today or tomorrow and then we can clear everything and they will be complete. Its 4:30 PM Xmas eve. Time to get my presents for the wife and kids. 20 years married still don’t know her ring size so have to be earrings again.

    Merry Christmas everyone.
    Steve Johnston in Sugar Land, Texas

    #8 3 years ago

    Ken,
    Believe me getting these to this stage by Xmas day is a nice present.

    Doing two games at once is actually more of a challenge and less fun than I thought. Everytime you complete something you see the other game part waiting to be started. However, the end result will be worth it.

    Cad-kid,
    Thanks for the complement. These baseball games are fun and I like to play them as well as my pins. I had a Xmas party and my World Series game was hogged all evening with everyone trying to get the most runs. Interesting footnote one of my lady friends towards the end of the evening asked how to play the game and just beat all the guys scoring 42 runs.

    Merry Xmas

    #10 3 years ago

    Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

    Nice restore. I like your paint booth. mine looked like that too...at first, then grew to a building...such fun, painting

    I auto cleared the cabs yesterday. The weather south of the I-10 was quite windy but no where as serious as in your area. It still blew my spray booth over my 6 foot fence. I weighed the legs as best as I could and finished. The booth is for the dump as two legs are now bent and broke.

    I like the painting and clearing too and have it down pat now and this takes only minutes. The prep takes days and days.

    #11 3 years ago

    Front Moulding Refurbishment

    As discussed earlier my front Mouldings were pretty bashed up.
    New_and_old_Front_Mouldings_(resized).JPGTwo existing mouldings and a blank I made.

    The front moulding top and playfield is Formica and they have weathered well. But you cannot fix Formica it needs to be replaced or covered. No replacement exists so we need to cover. Spencer namely ‘Nighthawk’ made a decal but he has had not had the time to perfect it, so I have made some from one of my tops.

    Moulding_repaired_and_ready_for_a_decal_(resized).JPGA repaired moulding ready to receive its new decal.

    The Mouldings after 52 years are in rough shape as you can see below. The sides are usually broken off as above and the Formica top is chipped and badly scratched. The use of a Formica top was a really smart idea in the day as it was able to take a lot of abuse and is the reason so many still exist on the games today.
    Moulding_Lever_Hole_needing_repair_(resized).JPGThe Formica top has scratches chips and worn lever holes.
    Moulding_Needing_repair_(resized).JPGTypical Damage to the wood sides

    Fixing the wood needs new wood strips and plenty of bondo to fill the gaps. I was able to use my router with the table to fashion a new wing for one game. I made the piece to fit into the square grove in the existing wood. It had been broken off and the grove had to be cleaned out with a chisel to receive the new piece. This approach is well worth the effort as only glue was needed to secure the new piece in place.
    Moulding_repair_3_(resized).JPGNew piece after fashioning with a router glued and clamped in place
    Moulding_Repair_2_(resized).JPGThe clamps will keep it all tightly pressed together over night.
    Moulding_Repair_4_(resized).JPGA bit of bondo and some work with a sander and hey its looks OK.

    The wear to the lever slot is usually caused by the rubber bumper being broken and this then allows the lever to move against the wood. We need to rebuild this area. As long as the bumpers on the lever assembly is good then the wear cannot happen again.
    Moulding_lever_hole_after_repair_(resized).jpgBondo filled and smoothed off.

    One of my mouldings needed a lot of filler to smooth it all out. Bondo is perfect for this and was shaped with a palm sander with 60 and 120 grit paper then smoothed with 220 and 400 grit paper prior priming. I was now ready to paint. I covered the top with masking tape and sprayed the underside and sides orange.

    Underside_gets_a_new_coat_(resized).JPGI also auto clear coated the wood and the top ready to receive the decal. I have read in a Vid thread that decals can shrink over time. As wood and clear act differently during temperature changes, by encapsulating in the clear I hope the decal moves with the clear not the wood.

    Almost done, time to apply the decal. My wife helped me apply the decal straight and this part was therefore very easy.
    NEW_AND_OLD_FRONT_MOULDING_(resized).pngA comparison of a decal applied moulding top and an existing moulding before applying the decal.

    Finally a liberal top coat of auto clear is applied and the Mouldings are complete. This top coat is essential as the decal needs protecting. The clear will never be a good as Formica but it will harden and can be cleaned and scratches removed just the same as a cleared playfield.

    Cleared_Moulding_(resized).JPGOnce the clear has hardened hopefully the games will last another 25 years. I have the PDF available for the moulding fix just ask.

    #15 3 years ago

    Scott, so right about these old mouldings I have three 'fixed' mouldings on my World Series game and the two being restored. One of the better ideas I was part off. I made the decal bigger than the moulding and after sticking down I trim with a exacto and we are done.

    Not so convinced on the clear coat in the long term. It looks fabulous and will be a great protector but how well it adheres to the decal over the years if we drop things on it we will have to see.

    Post a picture in a few minutes.

    #16 3 years ago

    DSC04401_(resized).JPG
    Here is the World Series with its newly decaled front moulding. I made this the other year as I did not have one. Complete now finally with the decal and clear.

    DSC04402_(resized).JPG
    The Major leagues games with their newly restored mouldings. This is a nice looking game.

    #17 3 years ago

    Its time now to fix the 110V batting Unit Assemblies
    DSC04422_(resized).JPG Refurbished ready for another 25 years crunching the ball.

    I am refurbishing as needed three batting units. One is for a gentleman that has a non-Williams unit on his recently acquired game. As the review earlier in the thread stated I have had two units re-welded due to binding of the linkage. We may find on our games the batting unit may not be the original. The assembly in the picture above on the right is an original unit for this game a C-5161-4. The others are newer versions but insignificantly different.

    In the earlier review some mechanical wear seemed odd. Also the frame bat arm female couplings were both loose and could rotate. I had these welded. This issue would not stop the unit functioning but pointed to the mechanical linkage binding in the past and ‘breaking’ the housing female coupling pressed joint. Some re welding was evident also in the existing parts so it behooves us to ensure these parts moved as originally designed prior putting back in the game.
    Batter_Unit_Rewelded_(resized).JPGWelded Female Coupling

    One batting unit shown in the middle in the picture above in particular has a lot of wear showing the linkage had binding issues and was played for years without fixing. We need to lube the metal to metal rub points prior putting back in the game.
    Worn_Linkage_Parts_(resized).JPG
    Linkage wear on the assembly & pins

    The plunger retaining pin shown in the picture above is still usable as long as we fix the issue that caused the wear. This wear was caused by an original nut being replaced with a standard lock nut that is too long. The Keps nut is a 1/4" X 28 thread and the correct replacement is available in some box stores. I found this one at Home Depot. It can also be replaced easily with a normal nut with a lock washer. I simply ground the one on the game down for now so it was clear off the wear area and will replace later.

    Nut_wear_(resized).JPGThe nut is now clear of the wear area after grinding back.

    Bat_Driver_Arm_Assembly_(resized).JPG The more modern Driver Arm is a two piece with the bat not shown.

    This C-5161-2/3/4 three part bat shaft version (bat part not shown)was fitted to the games from 1960 thru 1964. On review it is a better version than the more modern 2 part piece (A-6338) because of the collar on the shaft that stops the shaft dropping down and inhibits the linkage from binding as newer game assemblies do. If you have this version intact then you should see zero wear the same as mine. However, the wear should not stop you being able to fix your unit to operate 100%. As stated, we can always update to newer parts still made for the Slugfest game. They all work in a similar fashion with interchangeable parts available still from Marco Specialties. The link to a ‘how to’ technical support topic is attached. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-1883604

    As stated above the original version with the three part bat assembly (2A-2799) has to be installed in pieces as it has a collar that cannot pass through the assembly hole. How to assemble the C-5161-2/3/4 back together in steps is shown below.
    DSC04413_(resized).JPG Step 1; Shaft with the collar ready for fitting after some lube is added.
    Arm_thru_shaft_(resized).JPG Step 2; shafted fitted into assembly. See the shaft key location.
    Key_fitted_to_shaft_(resized).JPG Step 3; Key fitted ready to receive the linkage arm.
    3_part_Arm_assembly_fitted_(resized).JPG Step 4; Linkage fitted over the shaft key and the 1/16 “x 1” cotter split pin added to lock together.
    Coil_plunger_and_linkage_(resized).JPG Step 5; add the cross arm (A-4690) and then install the coil plunger (2A-2587) after connecting the coil plunger to the linkage (A-5957) with the locating pin (2A-2559) and secure with a 1/16” X 5/8” cotter pin.
    Reassembled_Batting_Unit_(resized).JPG Step 6; add the linkage roller (2A-2597) across the coil plunger linkage arm with a #8 X32 nylon lock nut and then all washers, and clips

    Important Note; the bat uses a #10 X 32 nylon lock nut along with the rubber return post, these you will find in a box store along with the #8 X 32 nuts.

    The coil fits on a sub-assembly frame with its coil sleeve screw into place. The unit is then screwed to the assembly frame. The screws are #8 X 32. A lock washer should be used, available in a box store. Some people want a new return spring and no one seems to stock. This spring is quite light and is about 2” long without tension. I believe you can find in Ace hardware as close is good enough.

    I will not go through the other batter newer units as they are covered in the linked thread. I hope this is all helpful, as the screw parts maybe unavailable from a box store so some forward planning is needed before tackling this refurbishment. With the parts it is a half day Saturday afternoon job and very rewarding when you put back in the game and the bat really sings.

    Next part will be the Target Assembly.

    #18 3 years ago

    Target Assembly.
    What is it? A bunch of relays, switches, cams, springs, target hopper, motor, wiring harness, bulbs, articulated targets and metal linkages mounted on a piece of pressed wood. Cool….

    1_(resized).JPGUnderside View of unrestored Targets

    2_(resized).JPGTop View of Unrestored Target Hopper and Mechanical Parts

    I started taking pictures as I have not stripped a target assembly down before. Having two assemblies to restore I decided to do one first and rebuild keeping the second as a reference just in case. I am learning that’s for sure. Metal placed in the tumbler, plastics, wiring harness and target parts go to the ultrasonic.

    It’s interesting how colors change over the years. Take the target hopper it looks red. But it was actually orange back in the day. I found out when removing the paint after leaving in the hot ultrasonic for a time. The paint came off in a flexible goo. The underside color was orange very different to the current red, go figure. I have resprayed one of the hoppers so you can compare.

    3_(resized).JPGThe targets take a bashing over their lifetime so whilst cleaning I drilled out the 1/8” X 7/32” long rivets (guess ¼” long rivets would work too) and scanned the target faces to make new art using Illustrator for new decals. The decal art is available for free just PM me. I have some spare decals made so ask about a set if you want to go that way.

    4_(resized).JPGAfter cleaning all the hardware in the tumbler we can now start the re-assembly. First we sanded down the assembly before fixed screw-holes and filled edges followed by a nice new white coat of paint.
    5_(resized).JPG
    Step 1; the target was scanned and the bracket sent to the tumbler for a couple of days. Start the reassembly by adding the new decals to the old target faces. I made them a 1/16” larger and trimmed them with a new exacto blade. Came out well. Then put the target back on the spring articulated mounting bracket. I made the background an off white to better match the game.

    6_(resized).JPGWe had drilled out the rivets to separate the target from the bracket. To reassemble we press the new rivet through the existing hole and take to the rivet press.

    7_(resized).JPGI used my rivet press and 1/8” bits. Takes longer to set up the riveter than pressing the rivets.

    8_(resized).JPGA few minutes later all done.
    9_(resized).JPGFinally we need to protect the decal a bit so I sprayed with some 1K auto clear as I was too lazy to set up the HVLP spray gear. It will really help keep the targets in good shape for a while.

    Step 2; we fit the targets to the wooden frame.
    Step_2_(resized).JPGThe seven target brackets are installed next to the frame. You need to be careful as you are working on both sides of the frame. The new targets are underneath so I put down on the bench a moving blanket so not to scratch them. The two double targets have a bracket to hook to a reset bar that needs to be fitted at this time as shown in the picture above.

    Step 3; add the home run assembly brackets

    Step_3_(resized).JPGThe homerun ball return bracket that comes in two pieces gets fitted next. Here is the underside view. Additionally two brackets on a rod passed through the ball return bracket that connects to linkage to be added to following steps should be fitted now. The release bar can be fitted now on the underside. It hooks at the frame ends into the single targets as well as hooking onto the double targets.

    Step 4; add the reset bar
    Step_4a_(resized).JPG
    Step_4b_(resized).JPGThis complete the frame underside except for a switch that is part of the wiring harness. So place the frame on a soft blanket now as we will be working mostly on topside from here.

    Step 5; Start adding the relays and electrical harness

    Step_5_(resized).JPG
    Step 6; Turn over the frame and complete the underside work.
    Step_6a_(resized).JPG
    Step_6b_(resized).JPG
    Step 7;
    Step_7_(resized).JPG
    Step 8; add the linkage parts right side of ball through funnel
    Step_8_(resized).JPG
    Step 9; add the linkage parts left side of the ball through funnel
    Step_9_(resized).JPG
    Step 10; motor and cams install
    Step_10a_(resized).JPG
    Step_10b_(resized).JPG
    Step_10c_(resized).JPGThe motor when adding power on the bench was in the wrong way around. Switched and the shaft turned correctly.

    Step 11; Adding Ball through funnel and lighting deflectors
    Step_11a_(resized).JPG
    Step_11b_(resized).JPG
    View from underneath
    step_12_placed_in_game_(resized).JPGTarget Back in the game. Cool …Now where is the bloody other one to restore.

    Next is have a week or so off to do some maintenance on my collection and play some pinball and baseball.

    Then we will get back to lower cabinet fit out especially the doors.

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from reppie:

    Amazing stuff! Thanks for sharing all this.

    This particular game is worth the effort.

    We discuss from time to time Williams and other manufacturers having their innovative periods in the 50's and the games are much loved. However, it was a dynamic period at Williams in the early sixties too with different type games being rolled out with different mechanical ideas. The target assembly on this baseball game was invented and made for two games before being revamped the next year and then again the following year. These mechanical variations stand the test of time as long as not made of plastic construction.

    I hope others will see these help threads and decide to restore them as well as play them.

    #23 3 years ago
    Quoted from johninc:

    Beautiful work. I was proud of my '64 Grand Slam restoration until I saw this! Here are a few pictures anyway.
    http://imgur.com/a/DPcxZ

    John, that is excellent work! You didn't have much paint to start of with did you! Not sure I have the patience or ability to repaint the target faces as well as that, they look superb.

    I would be happy to own this if I had any room.

    #26 3 years ago

    John,

    Good idea. How have they held up from the ball strikes?

    Guess that if they wear you will just add another sticker?

    #30 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nighthawk128:

    You've restored my confidence to carry on with the apron restore as opposed to duplication which stalled ages ago.

    I have a restored front moulding available and as I find them will restore others. I will email you the PDFs so you can get one printed tomorrow if you want to do that. I would recommend that you stick a piece of Formica type product on the wood before the decal as it makes it so flat. Decide how you want to proceed. The targets decals are spot on. Send that too. Again decide if you want to make or use my extras.

    Post some pictures of your restore it is so good.

    Regarding the pitching unit yes I can do that after the doors I suppose. It is straight forward once you know the rebuild steps.

    2 weeks later
    #31 3 years ago

    I had to go back to the target Assembly after reviewing the schematic.
    Motor_Cams_and_Switches_(resized).JPG
    The motor when adding power on the bench was re installed backwards. On the schematic there is a target motor diagram showing the shaft direction and positions of the cam dwells in relation to each other and the switches. Beware it is incorrect. Cam 1’s rotation as drawn is opposite to as marked. The direction arrow in red is the correct rotation and yes as it is a double shaft single drive gearbox and if you install backwards it will run backwards. I have proved that in practice so you don’t need to!

    The marks made in blue show the cam dwell leading edge is approximately 180° apart. It does not need to be exact. On one of the games Cam 2 was wrongly positioned but it still ran OK before I stripped it down. I have now positioned the cam in the correct place.
    Schematic_Cam_1_and_2_Positions_(resized).JPG

    #32 3 years ago

    Game Doors Refurbishment

    The front doors were examined and one had been forcibly open and a spot weld broken. This is so annoying because before I can attempt to straighten it needs a new spot weld to pull it back in place. This game had chromed doors originally and must have looked very nice once new. I like to put the coin mech’s in the internal door hardware and three were there only one missing. I will watch ePay for one more. I stripped the parts from both doors and made a pile for its turn in the tumbler. The wiring was put in the ultrasonic and got a 10 minute soak and clean.

    Worse of the two doors
    Worse_Door_(resized).JPG
    I removed the paint and had the door re-welded. The welding probably made the door distortion a little worse but it was never going to be perfect again and the only path forward is to fill and paint.
    Repaired_Door_(resized).JPG
    A liberal amount of bondo and a good sanding soon got the results we needed. When finished there was not too much bondo left.
    Fixing_the_Door_(resized).JPG
    Door and frame was then primed followed by a coat of Hammer finish paint. I have made a decal to match the door and it looks pretty good on the hammer finish. After we clear coat finish the decal edges fade away.

    Finished Door
    Refinished_Door_with_new_decal_(resized).JPG
    The other door was intact without any dents and could be re-chromed.
    The_Good_Door_(resized).JPG
    I soaked in Evaporust overnight and it cleaned up very well. I was still unsure of the finish so I added the decal and clear-coated the door and put it on the game to see if I liked the look. As bling is not my thing I have not chromed any parts to date and have no relationship with anyone in place to do this type of work. However, this door was originally chromed so it was warranted.

    After a week next to the hammer finished door I broke down and pulled the door and frame off the game and hammer coated the same as the other game. I reasoned that my son and daughter would compare the games and I would hear eventually that I favored one over the other due to it so that is the reason for what it is worth. Looks good just waiting on 5/8” locks for this game to finish this part.

    Finished Door on the game.
    Door_on_the_game__(resized).JPG
    Next will be the Pitching Unit. More involved than you would think. As requested I will attempt to clarify how to replace the tension spring and subsequent adjustment.

    #33 3 years ago

    E-5613 Pitcher Unit

    Motor Driver Side View
    1_E-5613_Motor_Side_(resized).JPG
    Ball lift Side View
    2_Ball_Lift_Side_(resized).JPG
    The E-5613 Pitcher Unit was installed in Williams’s baseball type games starting in 1958 with the Short Stop and through the 1963 Major League game when it was replaced on the Grand Slam in 1964 with the D-6322 unit. It did not change in design through that time. A notable exception was on the Official Baseball game which had a unique E-5570 unit which worked with the pitcher figure on the playfield. The subsequent pitcher unit the D-6322 was modified through its life so ensure you are aware of the changes if you try to take parts from one for another.

    How it works

    The E-5613 assembly unit is a clever piece of engineering. It has a motor driven cam connected to a pitcher arm and tensioned with a spring. Stop dogs in the cam dwells lock the pitcher arm until the motor is powered rotating the cam and releasing the dogs. The unit is straight forward to understand. To assist explain how it operates I find it simpler to look at the unit from its two sides. The left motor driver side and the right ball lift side.

    Motor Driver Side

    See below the motor side with the motor removed.

    Motor Side
    3_Motor_Side_(resized).JPG
    Includes the control cam, tension spring, motor and switch assemblies. These switches control the pitch motor run and other pitch control functions in conjunction with switches on the control motor. The pitcher arm is tensioned with a spring, I recommend you fit a new spring while the pitching assembly is apart. The Pinball Resource stocks. 1-28-2016, Strike that PBR have an incorrect one in stock and it cannot be made to work.

    The pitcher arm is held by cam stop dogs until the motor rotates the cams releasing the spring tensioned pivot arm and throws a ball at the batter. The switches should be adjusted for a 1/32” gap and a 1/32” follow thru. It is recommended to lightly lube the cam edges, stop dog edge and all pivot points.

    Motor, Bracket and cam drive arm
    4_Motor_and_Bracket_(resized).JPG
    Motor Driver Side without the Motor
    5_Motor_Driver_Side_(resized).JPG
    Ball Lift Side

    Includes a fast pitch assembly that releases a brake like a cars brake ‘pad’. The ball gravity feeds from the trough and is raised by a pitcher arm up a circular guide rail onto the playfield. The guide rail arms can be adjusted (bent) to direct the ball release to the batters left or right sides.

    Ball Lift Guide Rails
    6_Ball_Lift_and_Pitching_Arm_Reassembled._(resized).JPG
    Ball Lift
    7_Ball_Lift_(resized).JPG
    As this is a one player game a stepper unit is used to randomize the pitches. The brake pad is always rubbing against the pitcher arm brake disc until the fast pitch coil is activated then it is released so the ball can fly faster. The current game pads are ok for wear so we will leave them alone. If they need changing a tutorial is in my World Series game topic.

    Current Game brake ‘pads’
    8_Brake_Arm_(resized).JPG
    Finally the last component that could affect the pitch operating correctly is attached to the playfield itself the pitcher flap. The flap lifts without impinging on the ball and lowers immediately afterwards. The flap should be adjusted to be (by two hold down screws) parallel to the playfield and to have a smooth release tension.

    Pitcher Speed Adjustment

    The games pitch adjustment diagrams and instructions to adjust the slow and fast pitch are shown below. They are written if you are doing the adjustment in situ on the game. The slow pitch is simple enough as it is simply turning a spring loaded (B) adjustment screw (A). See the first paragraph.

    Game Adjustment
    9_Pitcher_Sped_Adjustment_(resized).JPG
    As we don’t adjust these assemblies often it is easier to take the unit off the game and fix on the bench. This involves removing four screws that connect the unit to the playfield, two screws uncoupling the ball trough and detaching the jones plug electrical connection. Now at the bench we need to access the driving cam and pitching arm to tension adjustment the fast pitch. We need to take off the motor and its bracket by removing a further three bracket screws.

    View of Motor Side with Motor and Wire harness Removed
    10_Pitching_Adjustment_(resized).JPG
    To adjust the tension on the pitching arm to alter the fast pitch we need to release the stop screw ‘E’. The tension spring ends are connected to the pitching arm cam and the other end to the driving cam. The release of the stop screw uncouples the two cams but they are still connected by the stop dogs so all is still locked and nothing will move. There is only about 2 to 2 ½ turns max of this spring, so there is not a whole lot of adjustment.

    Tension Spring Adjustment
    11_Cam_Drivers_Tension_Spring_(resized).JPG
    If you want to increase spring tension grip the pitch arm and turn the driving cam clockwise half a turn if possible. If you want to release then spring tension then grip the pitch arm while hold the driving cam release its stop dog from the cam dwell with your finger and allow the driving cam to unwind ½ a turn. When complete turn the stop screw back in to lock the pitching arm to the driving cam and you are ready to assemble.

    To replace the tension spring release all the tension as above then remove the retaining clip from the center post and lift of the cam. The spring is held in place on the cam adjuster notches and its other end is held in a hole in the pitcher arm circular body.

    Remove the old spring and add the new one by first hooking the end in the pitcher arm cam. Then replace the driving cam carefully hooking the other spring end in the middle notch with a screwdriver. Ensure there is still a thin washer beneath the driving cam on the post before fitting. Then add a second thin washer on the post before locking in place with the clip. Originally there was a plastic washer that I believed fitted snugly in the driving cam recess collar. I found only broken remains in my game, it will work without. However, ensure the new spring does not get caught beneath the collar and the pitcher cam as you tension.

    Pitching Units Cleaning & Re-plating

    The units were stripped down and small parts made ready for the tumbler. Components that were oily and greasy were put in the ultrasonic and wiped clean before adding to the tumbler. This saves time and increases the life of the shells. The larger brackets and components were quite rusty so were put in an Evaporust bath over night to see how they would clean up. Unfortunately a lot of the electroplating was gone so the brackets needed re-plating.

    Tumbling; the metal work was quite dingy overall. The hardware was rusted on one of the games in particular, so components may needed re-plating. Tumbling parts is time consuming so you do it whilst doing other things. I usually run the tumbler for 48 hours to get where I can consider accepting them for refitting. I am using ‘Scratch Out’ as a polish medium in the tumbler and sometimes parts are OK after only 24 hours.

    Scratch out Polish Additive
    11a_7_oz_Scratch_Out_(resized).JPG
    It is readily available from O'Riellys and much cheaper than Flitz. Did I say much cheaper?

    Brackets were missing zinc plating
    12_Brackets_Plating_Issues_(resized).JPG
    I replate with an Eastwood home kit and the results have been more than satisfactory to date. Games that I have re-plated parts a couple of years ago are still looking as good as the day I did them. The Autosol paste shine has dulled but that is cosmetic. I use also a 'Fast Etch' solution as the pre pickling bath prior electroplating, it seems to prepare the metal for the dip quite well. The replating is not nickel but a tin zinc plating.

    It’s straightforward to set up. The kit gives you the solutions, power source and plating strips. Make sure you have the correct safety PPE gloves, safety glasses, long sleeve shirt etc.

    Electroplating Pre Plating Set up.
    13_Electro_platting_Set_up_(resized).JPG
    Electroplating set up.
    14_Electroplating_Set_up_2_(resized).JPG
    Typical routine is;

    1. Sand or grind the surface of part to be plated removing the old plating back to metal. I use a palm sander with 120 grit, a dremel and or a small grinder. What scratches you leave will be there after the plating. I don’t always clean all the old plating off if it is well ‘stuck’ as I am after the corrosion protection more than the cosmetic look, but that’s me.
    2. Put in the Fast Etch for 3- 5 minutes. Use your rubber gloves and have a pair of tongs to remove.
    3. Remove from etch and dip in the water to neutralize.

    Metal after Fast etch; dull and clean
    14a_Etched_parts__(resized).JPG
    4. Attach the material negative black connector to the piece and lower into the electroplating solution completely submerging. The other end positive red connector is connected to the plating strip already in the solution.

    5. Leave between 4 -10 minutes in the plating solution and remove once it has a white cloudy appearance. Again dip into the water bucket to neutralize the chemicals and it is ready for polish.

    Results from bath and polish.
    15_Electroplating_Results_(resized).JPG
    6. Using the Autosol paste rub over and leave for a few minutes to work its magic. Then polish with a clean rag until you are happy with the shine.
    Results after about 5 hours work dipping and polishing are very acceptable to me.

    Re-plated components….Cool.
    16_Finished_parts_(resized).JPG
    Pitching Motors

    I had two incorrect motors gearboxes on the unit’s one a 28 RPM and the other one a 24 RPM both with standard coils. Originally they should be a 17 RPM with a heavy duty coil. I had played the unit with the 24 RPM motor and it worked OK. Dennis Dodel whom I got the better game from said the motor he sold me stuck occasionally. Fortunately I was able to get two NOS motors off eBay that were the correct RPM and had heavy duty coils. Additionally one was the correct motor so yippee!

    NOS Pitching 17 RPM Motors
    17_New_NOS_motors_(resized).JPG
    The open frame motor tested at 16 RPM though its nameplate was 14 RPM. The shaft was ½” too long so I will cut that back in a jiffy.

    RPMs of NOS Motors after bench test
    17a_NOS_Motor_RPMs.PG_(resized).JPG
    The NOS original motor has a closed frame gearbox and that concerned me. I did not know what the grease was like after 52 years sitting on the shelf. So I drilled out the rivets and opened it up.

    Gearbox opened
    17b_Opened_Gearbox_(resized).JPG
    The grease was hardening up so I am glad I opened the gearbox up. I cleaned the gears and re-lubed with ‘Magnalube’ and put back together. I fastened using 3/16” copper tube as rivets to replace the original brass rivets. After retesting with the bench transformer power it still purrs.

    So time to reassemble the pitching units and move on the playfields to see what needs to be done with them.

    Reassembled Pitching Unit with NOS Motor
    18_Pitching_Unit_Rebuilt_(resized).JPG
    Pitch Motor showing the Fast Ball arrangement
    19_Pitch_Unit_Brake_Side_(resized).JPG

    #35 3 years ago

    The kids better appreciate these games!

    #38 3 years ago
    Quoted from hoov:

    You never cease to amaze me on your restoration work! I'm in awe. Nice work!

    A nice compliment. Before long we may have some backglasses to talk about.

    #39 3 years ago

    I had an issue earlier this evening when checking the second pitching Unit. I mixed up the dogs and needed to go back to my strip down pictures. The part books are not sufficient so beware. Attached are the correct stop dog positions. Be careful the dogs are each slightly different.
    DSC04519_(resized).JPG
    DSC04518_(resized).JPG
    DSC04517_(resized).JPG
    PBR are out of 10A-172 pitcher springs. I received the wrong ones and Jimmy says that is what they have. Far too small. If anyone knows another supplier I would appreciate the tip.

    #41 3 years ago

    Thanks Ronnie,

    Its a fair game and I hope the information helps others fix theirs. There is not much info about on this game not even a good picture. if you need a decal or something let me know.

    I probably go on too much about the motors but my last baseball game that was brought back from the morgue was the result of a bad running man motor.

    The detailed write up is for me that I am happy to share here. My memory is not what it was and I am not giving up beer.

    Steve J.

    #43 3 years ago

    Thanks Alex. Appreciate your nod of approval any time.

    #46 3 years ago

    The 62 World Series so far is mechanically bullet proof. Took a while to understand that it needs to be quite level. So moving it around on a sloping garage floor is not ideal. They were made so well that a deep restore is worth the effort. I play it a lot and my guests play it more than the pins.

    I am hoping for the same robust performance from these two Major League games. Don't they clean up nice? My 2015 price guide says they are worth double in good condition of a similar age pinball!

    Anyone in the south Texas area is looking for a World Series and need a go to resource just call me.

    #48 3 years ago

    Sounds like the spring. Same as the major league except a 45v motor on your World Series not a 24v.

    #50 3 years ago
    Quoted from LyonsRonnie1:

    ....I waste so much time working on things that I've already figured out in the past, but forgot about and have to re-learn all over again... so the work you're doing on this and documenting this will help me when I do mine....

    Hi Ronnie,
    Yup, we have stuffed so much in our heads since childhood it stands to reason that all the details won't recall when we need them.

    1 month later
    #52 3 years ago

    I have been working to complete the lower cabinet including the play field, relay board, side rails and doors. I started first on the play field as I had some surface damage and they looked straight forward to get sorted as the pitching unit and bat unit had already been overhauled.

    Looking at the play field the field diamond graphics are covered by a thin hard laminate coat that is pressure glued onto a wood substructure. It is a hard wearing surface and looks like it could handle another half century rolling a chrome ball. However, if the play surface does gets damaged it is not feasible to invisibly repair. So protect it from scratches by keeping the play field glass on.

    1. Polished and restored Play field.
    1_(resized).JPG
    I had a repair to make where a pitching unit wrong length screw has pushed through. I was able to make a bondo repair and sanded smooth. Luckily the bondo is close to the laminate color. There is little you really can do to improve the appearance further without painting and clearing as I can see.

    The outfield has a single metal chromed ramp for flipping the ball into the home run chute. The play field has green rubber rebound strips on either side. At the lower play field metal there are metal guides to direct the return ball into the return chute.

    I stripped the remaining metal parts from the playfield and put in the tumbler. The plastic and wire harness were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner. The play field has a nickel plated ‘handle for lifting the playfield and four ball guides that were in need of some love. It was simple to use a dremel with a 120 grit sanding attachment to quickly remove the ball groves but now they needed plating as I had removed the nickel plate.

    2. Play field prior striping down.
    2_(resized).JPG
    2a. Play field underside.
    2a_(resized).JPG
    3. Notice the cool decal from the time. I will scan and try to reproduce this decal from the time.
    3_(resized).JPG
    4. During sanding out the ball groves from the guides. Bottom guide has not been sanded.
    4_(resized).JPG
    5. Ball guides after plating.
    5_(resized).JPG
    The handle part also need sanding and re-plating. I have had a recent topic on plating at home using a simple kit with good results. These parts as they would be seen needed to be preferably bright nickel plated but I don’t have this set up yet. I have recently bought the nickel anode and the electrolysis solution but have not worked this all out yet. So I used my zinc/tin solution and they came out really well.

    6. Nickel coated handle. Original on top lower was tin/zinc plated.
    6_(resized).JPG
    The chromed ramp received a battering through the years and all games seem to have some damage on the right side from deflected shots. But this is not a reason to change it. One of mine had some chrome lifting damage so I bought two that ‘PBR’ had on their special when lit section for $5 each. Got the last two, Steve probably thought they would never sell. The plastic post and lane dividers also cleaned up good as new in 5 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner.

    7. Original ramp and plastic parts before stripping.
    7_(resized).JPG
    To improve the play field underside appearance after the wood parts were disassembled for cleaning the underside was sanded and painted grey again. Some of the screw holes for the batting unit and pitching unit needed filling with wood and glue so they could take a screw again.

    8. Play field parts disassembled
    8_(resized).JPG
    The playfield oak side rails are restored by removing the screws similar to the pinballs or the period. The wood needed a new lacquer finish so stripping the wood bare was the first action. I use a 120 grit in a sander and finally with a 220 grit to smooth out. I like to use wood gloss clear lacquer by the spray method. Brush is fine to, after about 6 coats you will get a nice luster.

    The nickel plated ball chutes appearance is usually quite shiny. Inside however it was another story as the return balls over the years have bashed it and had worn through the nickel plate leaving a trail. I put it in Evaporust to soak and it cleaned them up inside pretty well. Re-plating the nickel plated ball chutes was not an option this time so to protect the metal I waxed and polished the surface and it should help quite a few years.

    The rebound rubbers are quite brittle by now so care needs to be taken if removing them from the game. A replacement black neoprene rubber is available from Scot Webb, currently there is no green strip available.I babied the green rubber off the game and gently dropped into the ultrasonic using ‘Arts’ Ultra dust cleaner. In seconds it had them so clean and looking like they were ready for the game again. I lubed them with a clear silicon lube I use for my pool seals and carefully reattached to the game.

    9. Reinstalled Cleaned Green bumper
    9_(resized).JPG
    It was now time to reassemble. The harness was dry, all the switch leaf blade contacts were dremel wire brushed, coils wrappers fixe, all parts as shiny as I can currently accomplish.

    10. First part is this pitcher arm deflector.
    10_(resized).JPG
    I think this part is to protect the flap and force the ball down the field not airborne through the glass perhaps. There are two parts so make sure you assemble the correct way as shown.

    11. Pitching Unit next.
    11_(resized).JPG
    12. The bat unit
    12_(resized).JPG
    I needed to lengthen the bat solenoid wires as they were way short. I made new Bat EOS switches similar to the replay and pitch buttons arrangement. All these switch build parts I get from PBR.

    13. So there it is with new labels, ball chute, bat rheostat, relays and wiring.
    13_(resized).JPG
    14. Topside View
    14_(resized).JPG
    The card holders cleaned up in the tumbler. I don’t re-plate usually these as most of the holder in covered by the instruction card. I was lucky to get original cards in the holders on one game so it was a simple job to remake passable copies on the PC with ‘Word’ for both games. I use glossy photo paper to print out the cards and I cannot spot much difference between the originals and the copies except they are cleaner.

    15. View from 1st base
    15_(resized).JPG
    16. View from the batter box
    16_(resized).JPG
    The playing surface should be cleaned with soap and water only and polished preferably with Gel Gloss available from Home Depot. Gel Gloss is a recommended polish for laminate and as we know does a good job on older painted playfields found on bingo games.

    17. Gel Gloss Polish is recommended for the laminate playfield
    17_(resized).JPG
    This may be a good time to discuss the ball size, I recently made another topic but it needs to be here too. Per Clay Harrell this game should have 3/4” Ø balls not 7/8” Ø as it has a plastic bat. If we use the larger heavier balls it will eventually lead to a broken bat. I personally like the larger ball so I have spare bats.

    Next is the lower relay board.

    #54 3 years ago

    Nick,
    You are only seeing this now as you have been running a first class promotion of bingo games that I think is superb. A bingo with a baseball game along with our pinballs is recommended in my opinion.

    #56 3 years ago
    Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

    Question: Maybe I missed it but were your playfields in nice condition? Did you have to re-paint them or did you just clear coat? The playfields are normally wrecked thus the reason I'm asking.

    One is in very good condition and the other is fair. I decided they were both acceptable with a good buff. One has minor paint touch up.

    As not a wood top surface we have an issue to repair a laminate surface. If they are scuffed up and you need to repair the fix is actually in my opinion straightforward. Bondo repairs for any gouges, water slide decals for the men caricatures and damage to the non green areas, frisket the green areas and paint hunters green and 2pac auto clear coat all the playfield.

    I have done this for the front mouldings and the results are very good.

    Steve J.

    #57 3 years ago

    Before we get further into the restore let’s take a moment to look at the changes to the game playfield over the games before. It’s a single player similar to the previous year World Series game. It has the first target unit that the ball passes through after hitting a target before falling into the back of the game to a ball return chute. Not a hole in the play field that the ball drops through activating a switch to make a single, double, triple or possibly an out. This allowed Williams to simplify the playfield accordingly. This simplification can be best seen by the view of the playfield underside.

    62 World Series Play field Underside
    62_WS_Playfield_US_(resized).JPG
    WSc_Play_field_Underside_(resized).JPG
    63 Major League Play field Underside
    63_ML_Playfield_US_(resized).JPG
    The game however with the target unit has a different scoring challenge with a bigger focus on grand slams and winning an extended inning that’s a lot of fun.

    Playfield showing the target Unit and home run hopper.
    Playfield_and_HR_Hopper_(resized).JPG
    On review on the Major League game instructions (previous games had no instructions that I have found) the operator had more adjustment control than previous games over all replays including a zero replay option for; top score to beat, number match and grand slams. The game also has a random setting for the high score to beat that was fully operator adjustable extra innings light Indicator liberal/medium/conservative setting and of course a completely off setting.
    So it is my opinion that it was a good new variation of the proven baseball game, very popular with people at the time and was another hit for Williams.
    Game_Instructions_(resized).JPG

    #59 3 years ago

    The next area to tackle was the cabinet Relay board
    a_(resized).JPG
    The bottom relay board eventually becomes home for most of the dirt, debris, labels, oil and grease from what happens above and eventually becomes quite unsightly. So after taking a bunch of picture of how the switches are arranged and what wire goes where its time to strip it down and clean everything. I noticed when I removed the parts for cleaning the board underside had screw dimples for a different game of the period. I wonder which one maybe the Extra Innings novelty version?

    All metal, brackets, screws, springs etc. are piled into the tumbler. Parts with grease or oil are first put in the ultrasonic and cleaned then added to the tumbler.

    The board and relay etc. labels are carefully removed and kept for making copies. I make new labels using Word and once saved they are easy to print and use. This improves the appearance of the game. Williams were not overly concerned what font they used on this baseball game after review of the labels so we need to only get it close and it will work out perfectly. I keep the original labels in a plastic bag and put in the cabinet so they stay with the game.

    On this game there are so many different fonts, colors standard labels and special game labels. The file is available to anyone that wants it. Just print on the paper color of your choice and stick using a paper glue. Oh on the white paper with red letters I used some Avery full size label paper it was satisfactory but not needed.

    b. Labels made for the games.
    b_(resized).JPG
    The board is sanded to bare wood as we wait on the tumbler load and then given minimum of three coats of clear poly. This will help keep it clean in the future.

    c. Yucky board.
    c_(resized).JPG
    Not original to coat but with the time it takes to restore one of these games it really enhances the appearance and will protect the wood in the future. Check the edges of the board for any delaminating and re-glue if necessary. The game relay boards were fine this time. After the tumbling period the parts can be examined to see how the plating is holding up and re-plate if they look too bad.

    Currently doing two games means I need to spread out in different work areas. This means outside but the weather must cooperate and usually does in South Texas especially at this time of year (Late winter/ early spring) which brings us our best climate of the year. I have forced myself into the habit of having the tools possibly needed to do a good job available and a surface clear to do different things. This all limits my procrastinating excuses when doing multiple activities and helps me do a better job overall.

    For example I have the plating kit set up with solutions and batteries available with necessary buckets and containers. I can have the first part in the mix in less than five minutes and its set up for the rest of the day. The tumbler is behind the garage so the noise only bothers the neighbors not me. The ultrasonic cleaner is on the bench in the workshop. I have a temporary table set up next to a power source as well as my proper bench free in the workshop to handle tasks. Power tools and hand tools are easily available so no excuse to skip on a job as I don’t have the tools handy. This has been a long struggle self-educating myself and my production and quality has much improved.

    The larger brackets steppers and or score motor were cleaned and inspected and again the plating was missing on some of the surface. One game stepper metal frames needed re-plating. I wonder, not for the first time am I at fault. I had soaked the frames in a weak Krud Kutter solution diluted with water for 48 hours. They seemed to be worse afterwards. I then gave them a good 120 grit sanding with the sander followed with a wire brush and some hand sanding with a red scotch brite pad. I re-plate them and polished as well as possible. They came out well and now look better than the passable non-plated frames from the other game. This is bad as I will keep looking at the re-plated frames now and will want to strip them back out and plate them. Need to resist......

    d. Mix and out Steppers
    d_(resized).JPG
    The transformer was a rusty lump so it needed some love to its appearance prior to refitting. I remove its legs and tumble then plate as they would only rust again if not and I usually have the plating kit set up and takes only about 10 mins to plate and polish. I paint the transformer as I have a bunch of paint and it puts a personnel touch to the brute.

    e. Transformer
    e_(resized).JPG
    The harness was quite dirty and the switch bank rollers were overly greasy. I put the harness in a large bucket of soapy water and a touch of degreaser for a day. The soaking gets a large amount of dirt of the harness looking at the color of the water. I then gave the harness a scrub with a nylon brush, rinse with clean water and blow the water off with compressed air. After a day two days it is quite dry, ready to have the coils re-wrapped or the existing ones reattached. The switch leaf contacts are burnished with a dremel wire brush. Make sure you brush parallel to your body to stop the brush as it strips not strike you. I like the result of the brushing but not the flying brush metal wires embedding in my face, so goggles are a must if not a full face guard when using this brush cleaning method. Also wearing shoes!
    I didn’t plate too many items but the Control motor top cam is one for appearance sake and a few other minor brackets that were quite rusty after a dip in the Evaporust.
    f. Control Motor
    f_(resized).JPG
    It takes me the full weekend to refit everything on the relay board, check/ re-gap switches, re-solder, re-label and add a new power supply. However, the end result is worth it on a game.

    The year before Williams fitted the World Series with an isolation switch but not the Major league. I guess as they had reduced the running voltage to 24 V from 50 V they thought it was not required not the soundest cost cutting idea I think, so I will add a switch with a new power supply. These games will be in other people’s houses so an extra isolation is in order.

    g. Fuse and tilt bob secondary board
    g_(resized).JPG
    The schematic on this game seemed to be overly complicated with a lot of 110V switches as well as lights. I found it easier to add the isolation switch downstream of the fuse holder on the hot wire. I ran it over to the right front side as usual and put the new switch there. I used 14 gauge wire as I had no 16 gauge available. I laced the wire to and from the switch connectors.

    h. Relay Board complete.
    h_(resized).JPG
    I also finished of the doors with the correct 5/8” long locks and cleaned up the side rails and added back onto the game. For the rails I used my sander with 120 and 220 grit paper to clean them up. It took about 30 minutes per rail. I finished with a hand sanding with a red scotch pad to get a brushed finish and they looked surprisingly good.

    J All lower parts back in the game.
    j_(resized).JPG
    I have still on order two fast pitch solenoid coils for the pitching unit and some new ball flap material. One of the pitching units came from a 61 Batting Champ 50V game and although the motor was changed to 24V the coil was overlooked. On the other game it was toast so I needed two. Somehow I order the wrong coil so I have spares now. I had purchased new flap material and cut out new flaps 7 1/4’ long by 2” wide from 0.004” blue spring material. It cuts with scissors as it’s so thin. I have a pair of shears so it was even simpler to cut out.

    I painted two hunters green and two a lighter green as a contrast. However from the jaws of success I found a way to ruin them all. I drilled the hold down holes a little too close and they did not fit perfectly. It was easy to drill originally however to drill larger hole was not possible as the material tears up every time. So be careful if you make them to drill the holes exactly correct.

    Next will be the Running man in a couple of weeks probably.

    #61 3 years ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    The re-plating is really impressive!

    Thanks,

    I have collected in the last couple of weeks the the bits needed to try Nickel Plating. I am hoping to use it soon and see how it comes out.

    2 weeks later
    #62 3 years ago

    Have made more progress on the game. Nearly completed the running man and it looks great. But first I had to circle back to the playfield to fix the ball flap.

    I had to remake the ball flap again after my drilling blunder on the first batch. This time the correct shim material in a can of eBay. More than enough material than I will ever need. The ball flap on the playfield is made from 0.004” spring steel. It is approximately 2” X 7 ¼” long.

    This go around I took the time to drill the holes for the rivets correctly. There is a connecting aluminum piece that the flap is riveted to that also have recessed holes for playfield hold down screws. The screw heads need to be flush as the flap needs to be level with the playfield surface. The playfield has a recessed opening to accept the connecting piece.
    I used 1/8”Ø X 5/32’long rivets on one connector and 3/32” Ø X 5/32 long rivets on the other as the holes were different…go figure. I used my rivet press to connect the flap to the connector and then placed the flap in position on the playfield.

    Materials and tools used to shape the flap
    DSC04740_(resized).JPG
    They look good on the game. The picture below shows them a little darker than what the eye perceives. I used hunters green paint from a box store that I use on my lawn furniture. Make sure the flap screws are not tightened too much and the surface remains flush. You may need to adjust if the ball does not escape or is slowed during operation by the flap.

    New pitching ball flaps.
    DSC04757_(resized).JPG

    #63 3 years ago

    On part of the running man I like to spruce up is the playfield in the back box. The paints fade over the years so I like to bring back to original as best as possible.

    Un-restored playfield
    1a._Playfield__(resized).JPG
    On review of the Running Man playfield the green on all games has faded to an unflattering late summer stressed grass color and needs some figurative fertilizer and water. To accomplish the wood was sanded back with 120 grit and finished with 220 grit paper, for filling and repainting. The underside was repainted with a standard grey paint that I have for all playfields undersides.

    The ply sides were in good condition so were ready for masking prior painting of the playfield surface the original color.

    While the sander was out I cleaned up the playfield sides and coated the inside face with a few coats of polyurethane clear. It doesn’t need it but what the heck.
    2._Wood_sides_(resized).JPG
    There is evidence of the original color under the hold down brackets and I had a can mixed at my favorite auto paint store. The painting activities are straightforward as long as you paint over a few days.

    New Grass
    3._New_grass_(resized).JPG
    That there is a perfect match, my wife told me so that is that. If you use stencils and tacky glue It is important to wait at least a day or more before painting the sand color on top of the green or it will lift the green paint.

    On goes the sand. This color is a guess as there is none hidden anywhere to view.
    4._New_sand__(resized).JPG
    I don’t wait more than 15 minutes after painting before gently removing the Mylar stencil material and other masking material. We don’t want the tacky glue to fix to the new paint.

    New sand
    5._New_Sand_2_(resized).JPG
    Finally we tackle the white lines, to get a sharp edge takes a further step than using a stencil. I still made a Mylar stencil and cut out the white line profile. This time however, I added Frisket to the playfield and traced the stencil white line onto the Frisket. Then using my exacto blade I was able to cutout a cleaner representation of the lines.
    6._Adding_the_lines_and_bases_(resized).JPG
    The Frisket material is better than the tacky glue I use on the stencils but I still want it removed from the painted surface as soon as the white paint is touch dry. Time is not your friend when sticking things to fresh paint. I used a primer I had at hand for the white line as it will be all cleared later.

    Lines added
    7._Lines_Added_2_(resized).JPG
    The final result was pretty good and edges were sharp. As you will notice the auto paints I use are a matt finish so a clear coat will be added to make it all pop.

    Now it’s cool
    8._Clear_Coated_1_(resized).JPG

    The clear really makes the colors pop.
    9._Clear_Coated_2_(resized).JPG

    #65 3 years ago

    Sure. What shade of green, size and show me a picture of the playfield connector.

    #66 3 years ago

    Running Man Unit
    1a_Running_men_(resized).JPG
    This horizontal running man was first introduced in 1951 on the Super World Series #47. This arrangement has not changed much thru 1973.
    1b._RM_Assembly_(resized).JPG

    Unrestored Running men Assemblies (Men and background removed)
    1c._RM_Assembly_(resized).JPG
    The unit has a wooden playfield representation with a cardboard grandstand background. Below the playfield is an electro mechanical assembly with a running man motor that drives the runners onto the field that run the bases mimicking how the game is scored during the game. It’s real cool how it all works. When a base or a multiple of are scored the target switch closes a relay in the running man assembly and this actuates the motor to run. How many bases the men will run is actuated by individual base relays in tandem with a mechanical arm is released by a coil.
    1d._Runner_being_raised_to_the_playfield._(resized).JPG
    A man is then rotated 90° onto the playfield driven metal post and runs the base or bases. On completion of a run scored the man then is mechanically rotated back to the original position ready to run again.
    1e._RM_being_lowered_(resized).JPG
    There are four men on arms to indicate all the running men. It’s quite simple, robust and realistic.

    Disassembly Over view

    To disassemble the unit first remove the cardboard background and the player caricatures and carefully store before stripping the metal hardware for tumbling. I was able recently to get two full set of backgrounds from a pinhead off eBay here is the link. ebay.com link » New Williams Pitch Bat Pinball Play Field Background Panels 1956 67
    Name is Roundnose 58. Similar quality, less cost, all three parts and the correct dimensions.

    New and original Background sets
    2._Background_(resized).JPG

    Background drilled and riveted to installation brackets using 1/8” X 7/32” rivets.
    3._Background_brackets_(resized).JPG
    With the men and background removed we can invert the assembly to get at the mechanics of this interesting unit. See Picture below.

    Running Man Electro Mechanics
    1f._RM_Us_mechs_(resized).JPG

    4._Mechanics_(resized).JPG
    The motor drives a double shaft. On one end the playfield pivots as the shaft rotates the running men on a ball bearing placed in the end of the shaft. The other end of the shaft rotates a triple cam and bases switches.

    The cams and the running men bracket are secured to the shaft by roller pins. The running man assembly mechanical parts have a motor connected to a U shaped metal frame with cams to drive the runners and a 4 legged running man metal bracket. To remove the roller pins you must drive the spring roller pins out of the holes with a suitable punch, the parts can then be removed. The fastening is the opposite.

    Motor Arrangement
    5._Cams_(resized).JPG
    This was a simple to execute procedure except for one. I broke my removing tool when one just refused to budge. I could not see why and after purchasing another punch I was still unable to drive the pin out. Although I could not see any evidence I surmise that the hole may have been peened over the pin ever so slightly and this was trapping the pin. Usually we drive from one end so it comes out the way it goes in. I used a round ended dremel tool and ground the face of the hole and pin on both sides to remove any accidental peening. Success! The last pin was successfully removed and I could separate the motor from the running man bracket.

    Also not sure why or exactly when Williams started putting 27 Volt coils in lieu of 24 Volt coils. It was in the late 60’s for sure and it’s my opinion his was because of failing motors used in a transformer high tap voltage setting that was causing game issues for operators. My calipers measurements indicate the coil wire was increased from 20 to 22 AWG. No issue to use a 27 volt more in a 24 volt circuit. So a 27 Volt NOS motor I found with the identical spec to the 24 Volt motor will be used in the games. Same rotation speed just slightly different motor coil.

    All the metal parts removed were put in the tumbler and the wood playfield were set aside for sanding and repainting.

    The installation is the reverse of the dismantling. One point to be aware of the playfield center is quite vulnerable to breaking when dismantled due to the 300° running man track. When the parts are all reconnected there is a screw that needs to be tightened so the playfield center is level with the rest of the playfield.

    5a._Field_screw_(resized).JPG
    This screw touches the top of the motor shaft rounded rotating end and effectively supports and locks the playfield to the metal frame. If you over tighten the screw the center wood raises too high if you under tighten it is too low. Need to get it just right. Simple and very effective.

    Large Tumbler makes short work of two running men metal parts
    6._tumbler_(resized).JPG
    48 hours in the tumbler with walnut shells and some ‘Scratch Out’ will have them shining up like nearly new. Don’t know why I am showing a picture of a tumbler.

    #67 3 years ago

    Men caricature replacement next.

    #68 3 years ago
    Quoted from way2wyrd:

    Steve,
    Would you sell a ball flap?
    -Jeff

    Sent you a pm as I am in Austin on Saturday.

    #70 3 years ago
    Quoted from presqueisle:

    Beautiful work! Thanks for detailing this.

    Thank you for the nice words. I hope others will look at these games and say yes I am going to save one of these games. I am trying to give small details like rivet sizes and where to get bits so we don't all have to work it out the hard way.

    #71 3 years ago

    I had fun making these men. Finding suitable cardboard material was not as hard as I thought but a tip is do not get over ally thick material as you need to still cut it with an exacto knife.

    Men Caricatures Replacement
    7._Original_Men_(resized).JPG
    The on field men’s heads, feet and the batter’s bat seem to get damaged over the years. I have some spare men from a parted Line Drive that having been outside were well damaged by the elements. So they needed replacing for spares or trading. The men are made originally of a tough cardboard that is riveted to a 2 piece metal stand support. Using the decals shown below I was able to find various suitable replacement material at the Texas Arts and Supply store and cut out the caricatures to make replacement men.

    Decals courtesy of ‘Mark Gibson’ (Note; print at 110%)
    8._Decal_1_(resized).jpg
    I found that they are printing small so if you use Mark’s JPEG decals set your printer to print at 110% and they are perfect size. I cut out with an exacto blade and clean up with a dremel and a sanding attachment. Leave as is and do not clear coat as they will immediately darken, best to leave natural. Guess you can figure I had a few practice runs.

    To change out the man if damaged you first drill out the top of the old rivet.
    9._drill_our_rivet_(resized).JPG

    Two Part Brackets
    10._men_mount_bracket__(resized).JPG

    A 3/32” X 5/32” rivet is placed threw the man and bracket as shown.
    11._ready_to_close_rivet_(resized).JPG

    Using a hand punch tool and hammer the rivet is persuaded to close.
    12._Rivet_closed_(resized).JPG

    Front side with Hanson rivet punch.
    13._Rivet_tool_(resized).JPG

    They look exactly like the originals, you decide.
    14._New_and_original_men_(resized).JPG

    The running figures are made of aluminum and are also riveted onto a metal bracket. They seem to hold up pretty well. However mine have some paint missing. I needed to do something to spruce them up. Additionally I have a spare set of these guys to repair for possible call up or trading but they needed their brackets replating. I decided to scan a man and clean up with Photoshop before make a waterslide decal to replace the current painted men as needed.

    I have a set of men saved as a suitable PDF for emailing if required shown below.

    Running Man Decals
    15._RM_Decal_Composite_(resized).JPG

    The cardboard stationary caricatures and the running men riveted with 3/32”X 5/16’ long tubular rivets. If replacing or plating as a fix I recommend you to drill out the rivets to separate the men from their brackets. Before fixing the decal you need to repaint the aluminum runner white as the decal does not print. Clearing is optional.

    To remove the man from the bracket, first separate the caricature from its bracket. You need a drill bit and a punch.

    Drilling the 3/32” rivets ‘turned’ side and then use the punch to drive the rivet out.
    16._DSC04765_(resized).JPG
    I then removed the remaining paint of the aluminum man caricatures and painted all a base white color prior applying the decal. When using Photoshop the off white hue of the original man is picked up by the printer and changes the fresh paint to a more time realistic off white.

    Men ready for decaling.
    17._White_men_(resized).JPG

    Decals added both sides.
    18._New_Running_Men__(resized).JPG

    Ensure you put the man on the bracket as shown or they may be running backwards!
    19._Rivet_ready_for_closing_(resized).JPG

    Use 3/32”X 11/64” rivets for the running men connection. I again used the Hanson punch and a hammer to close the rivet.
    20._Rivet_closed_2_(resized).JPG

    Re decaled Men riveted to their brackets.
    21._RM_Complete_(resized).JPG

    #73 3 years ago

    Nickel Re-plating

    While this work was being carried out the brackets were being tumbled and the rust removed. So now we need to re-plate a few pieces. I recently gathered of eBay the materials to try nickel plating. I am quite proficient at zinc/tin plating but Williams nickel and cadmium plated small parts and I would like to use a more original finish.

    Materials needed.
    1._Plating_bits_needed_to_be__procured_(resized).JPG
    I borrowed a Pyrex dish from the kitchen and I had some D batteries so all set I think. Then I stripped some solid 18 gauge wire to hook up the clips to the battery holder and that’s it ….oh plus a quart of boiling water to mix half of the reagent with. I had cleaned the parts before the plating in Evaporust, the tumbler and with a wire brush.

    To start wearing gloves, I dipped the parts in a prep solution that removes finger grease etc and rinsed in clean water and now am ready to plate. Frankly I knew there is more to it than this but I fight procrastination by jumping in and seeing what happens. The battery red positive side (+) is connected to the nickel anode. I mixed in the dish half of the reagent in the boiling water and most of the crystals dissolved to create the green solution. The parts to be dipped in the solution for about 20 minutes by securing with the copper wire and clipped to the black battery cathode (-).
    2.Plating_bath_(resized).JPG
    The part below was pulled from the bath after about 20 minutes. The solid copper wire that I had stripped from its plastic insulation did not coat, I am not sure why possibly it had a lacquer coating. The first part dipped was not an ideal examples to plate and polish out due to its shape. It was one of four running men brackets that had been out in the elements for a long time. Quite rusty with pitting when I got hold of them but they are all definitely worth restoring.
    3._Plated_bracket_(resized).JPG

    After Polishing
    I polished the parts seen below first with a metal polish but it didn’t help much. I then tried buffing however due to their shape were not suitable so I went for the dremel with a wire brush attachment. They improved a lot in appearance. Still not great hopefully they won’t rust again and look fine.
    5._Polished_Nickel_plating_(resized).JPG

    Below is the backside of the brackets that originally were pitted with corrosion. The new plating seems to have held well. There is actually more than enough material to grind the pits out for appearance but this is unnecessary work.
    6._Polished_Part_2_Backside_(resized).JPG
    Another part that I dipped originally looked beyond repair due to corrosion. But looks can be deceiving. It was dipped with the other parts in Evaporust for a couple of days and then wire brushed. It still looks bad after the plating which appears uneven. However, the dark parts have nickel underneath and the lighter colors may be original plating that had not been removed properly.
    4._Plated_Part_2_(resized).JPG
    Below is the part to plate for a comparison with an original part after polishing. The part on the right was originally pulled from a Line Drive running man assembly and was very rusty and the underside pitted quite badly. I soaked in Evaporust and, wire brushed then pickled before plating and polishing.
    7._Polished_Part1_(resized).JPG
    8._Polished_Part_1a_(resized).JPG
    The underside above is quite pitted but the platting seems to have covered well. I will leave this part outside for a couple of months to see what happen to the pitted area as I have my doubts that it is all covered in nickel. We will see.

    Results
    Quality wise the finish was not bright enough and the plating coverage was spotty overall. Worth the money spent no…. not yet.

    The power supply may not have been sufficient, the batteries work but need to be fresh.

    The original cadmium or nickel plating was not properly removed looking at the pictures of the parts when first removed from the bath.

    The bath solution needs to be hotter for longer for the process to work well, even if you boil the water it cools too quickly before the plating is completed.

    I need to do a bit more research before I replace my trusty Eastwood tin/zinc plating kit.

    Conclusion
    I can only get better with this, I learned somethings and need now to modify my approach before I run another batch and report back again.

    So going forward I plan to find a cheap slow cooker pot with a heating element to keep the bath solution at a constant temperature closer to 140°F.

    I need to soda blast the parts to clean off the old plate and not rely on chemicals and wire brushing.

    Find a way to possibly agitate the solution while plating. Investigate an alternate power source such as a DC phone charger instead of the batteries. I will report back when I have done this.

    Finally if you try this don’t waste your money on a 100g pack of reagent. Get the 500g pack minimum so you can make a few baths as you work on finding the strength that works best.

    This was my first nickel plating attempt and it was acceptable overall. Ten pieces in all were plated including some other simpler wire brackets and they all plated to some degree of quality.

    #76 3 years ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    I wonder how a heated ultrasonic cleaner unit would work? The harbor freight unit heats to 150 deg then shuts off the heater. You could put water in the main vessel then have a second insulated vessel with the plating solution (beaker for instance). Just wondering

    I guess it that would work. A cook pot would be cheaper and simpler IF we can find one.

    Out of the box thinking...priceless.

    3 weeks later
    #78 3 years ago

    We are finally approaching the completion of the last major assembly to be refurbished the light box. We still have the back glass, home run plastic and troubleshooting to go but that will not take too long.

    Light box refurbishment

    The light box contains score reels for runs scored, high score to beat and the number of grand slams. It has a credit wheel switch banks and a run unit that is operator adjustable. The game has operator adjustable plugs in the box so plenty to get cleaned and re-adjusted. Each stepper and reel was gummed up and locked solid so the course needed was clear as usual. Take many pictures, strip down, clean tumble and repaint and varnish where appropriate.

    After cleaning, painting and re-adjusting.
    1_(resized).JPG
    After cleaning and new bulbs and shiny reels
    2_(resized).JPG
    Pre clean operator setting jacks.
    3_(resized).JPG
    Pre Clean Run Unit –take a couple of pictures especially of adjustment screws positions.
    4_(resized).JPG
    Grand Slam Reel Unit partially stripped.
    5_(resized).JPG
    Score to Beat Reel Unit partially stripped.
    6_(resized).JPG
    The message is take plenty of pictures before you start as there is a lot of adjustment required and differences between the reels with small clips to be removed and replaced.

    It takes a good evening to strip all down this assembly and load up the tumbler, sort out the small amount of plastics parts and get the wire harness free from the reels for soaking.

    I did not remove the lighting ground wires and sockets this time as the small staples used removal would have damaged the wood unnecessarily and look unsightly. I wire brushed around the wire and cleaned the bulb sockets.

    Extent of frame strip down
    7_(resized).JPG

    Lighting System

    Some bulbs as we know cannot be removed or fitted in place without the rubber tool due to the recessed holes they are placed. I cannot find my rubber bulb remover, however I found something that is actually better. The top of a ‘brite liner’ (Highlighter) is perfect to remove 44 bulbs. The magic marker fine tipped pen is perfect to put the fatter 47’s back in and to remove old 44 GE bulbs.

    Bulb removal and fitting
    8_(resized).JPG

    I think I read this on a thread here not sure…anyway something prompted me to try the pen tops. The bulbs are a snug fit. So now I don’t need to find the ‘proper tool’. However, Murphy’s Law will make it turn up in the tool box later this week.

    The light sockets were chalky from the southern Texas humidity and needed a good wire brushing.

    Chalky light bulbs
    Chalky_bulb_holders_(resized).JPG
    One of the first thing I read when coming into this hobby was how to fix the continuity of old bulb holders. The first part is to solder the bulb holder to the metal ring as the fiber washer has usually shrunk and possibly compromised the electrical connection. See the picture below to show where to solder.

    Soldered light holder
    10_(resized).JPG
    Finally I tighten the swiveling metal connector that is connected to the bulb center contact by squeezing the tab with my vice (mole) grips. I have not had any issues with bulb sockets on any of my restores after this procedure.

    Vice (Mole) Grips about to distort the tab and add pressure to the contact point.
    11_(resized).JPG
    Distorted and contact is now good.
    Bulb_Holder_fix_(resized).JPG

    #79 3 years ago

    Next is cleaning the Wire Harness

    Most of my time was spent removing the reels from the harness, cleaning the harness and switches and the subsequent rebuilding. All this is a good exercise and a good opportunity to examine the reels functionality and the solder connections whilst not in the game. I am so used to bad soldering on Williams reels from the early sixties but these guys were all fine…go figure.

    This electrical harness is surprisingly large and dirty. I like to soak the harnesses for 24 hours in dish soap and water and I have a 5 gallon bucket that works just right. I have stopped adding other stronger detergents as I am unsure what they are doing. I leave on the coils and banks of switches using a nutted existing hold down screw to keep the Bakelite spacers intact.

    After 24 hour soak in dish soap and water.
    13_(resized).JPG
    After I remove from the now dirty brown water I scrub the harness using a tooth brush or nylon brush to clean a bit more before rinsing and blowing the water out with air. It all dries in a couple of days. While it is drying I clean all the switches and other metal parts with dremel brushes and repair anything I find that looks worn.

    While the harness was soaking the tumbler was doing its thing.

    48 hours in the tumbler and here is the result.
    14_(resized).JPG
    The lightbox front is repainted white and the floor sanded and coated in poly to enhance the finish. I found at Lowes several white paint sample pots for a dollar each to paint the light reflecting side. These paint sample pots will last for years for this purpose. Very white, flat and most important the cost is just right!

    Wooden frame all spruced up.
    15_(resized).JPG
    Stained and poly coated frame.
    16_(resized).JPG
    I found it easier to completely rebuild the harness with reels, switches and steppers and get them working properly.

    Be aware that there is two types of coil stops. The deeper stop is part of the reels and the shallower one goes in the steppers.

    Coil Stops for steppers and reels
    17_(resized).JPG
    I use the 15 watt smaller bulbs in the game, they are bright enough, and better than the bigger more powerful bulbs as they are an unwelcome heat source.

    #80 3 years ago

    To reinstall it is now quite straightforward. Put the reels in their position and screw the switch Relays in place. I found it easy to re-solder the lighting power connections at this time, followed by adding finally the run stepper and Jones plugs and jacks. The new 47 bulbs are fitted next and finally the labels.

    Assembly rebuilt and operating perfectly
    18_(resized).JPG

    I replace most of the labels as they get torn, dirty or missing by this time. I like keep the originals in a bag and they can go in the cabinet as are part of the game’s history.

    Run Unit with Replay Jacks
    19_(resized).JPG
    Match Unit
    20_(resized).JPG
    Operator adjustment jacks.
    21_(resized).JPG
    Score to beat Reels
    22_(resized).jpg
    Time to put back in the game and hook it all up. Where is the schematic?
    Games near completion
    23_(resized).JPG

    #82 3 years ago

    Hi Dennis,

    The one that is nearly complete in the picture. It was in nice shape, solid cabinet, perfect door and good mechanics. Has a brand new NOS pitching motor fitted. Only got the works as the other was so so bad and easy to do two at the same time. I have actually mixed up some trim but it all fits.

    Hopefully have it trouble shot and working by the end of the month. I am not doing two games together again as way to much work. Every time I complete a major refurb of an assembly the other assembly seems to be staring at me.

    This is a very good game and I hope others restore their games. All the parts are available now and its a great time to be restoring baseball games. Like a bingo everyone should have a baseball game.

    2 weeks later
    #85 3 years ago

    Game Start up Troubleshooting

    Here is a list of issues I encountered over the last couple of weeks that were fixed. Nothing that unusual but the same issues were found sometimes on both games so they probably are worth detailing out if you are working on rebuilding this game and similar games.
    Before I start its worth mentioning that I added new 3 prong power supplies and isolation switches. I added the isolation switch before the 110V 10 amp fuse similar to the 62 World Series location. In this position however, it will not power the lights you need to start a game to do that.

    Isolation switch schematic
    1._Isolation_switch_(resized).JPG
    Let’s start.

    On review of the schematic to power up the game you need to add a coin or have credits and press the replay button. This will initiate the reset sequence by energizing the coin relay. The coin relay energizes the control motor to rotate and the reset sequence begins. The coin relay powers stays on long enough to energize the lock relay and the game will remain powered on until the game is switched off.

    Problem 1
    The fuses were re-placed and all new 47 bulbs installed. So time to power up the game. On powering up the 6 &110 Volt lights are on but the 24 volt power circuit is not activating. Turns out the new fuse was a dud not a good start.

    Problem 2
    The Control motor now rotates and the reels started to reset yippee…..but they do not finish as the motor cam after multiple attempts stops in the same cam position. I can now see the lock relay is not pulling in. The lock relay was not energizing as the kick off switch was open. Duh…. I had transposed the kick off and the tilt switch labels and the kick off switch was open not closed powering the lock relay. I had to change the tilt switch to open also. We won’t talk about this again.

    Problem 3
    At the end of the reset sequence both the tilt and game over trips are supposed to activate. The tilt does but the game over does not. Both are feed from the same source so this is odd. The game over trip is part of a Type M interlock which has the smaller coils and switches which I find fiddley to make work as there is so little switch movement to work with.

    It has to be a mechanical issue. I reflowed the solder joints but it was not that. I changed the game over armature spring with a slightly weaker spring still no success. The relay armature seems to have too much resistance to closing. I bent the armature pin so it was closer to the coil and realigned the switch leaf blades that the armature moved so they were not pushing up on the plastic actuator and that solved it. See the picture below to explain the issue and the fix.

    Type M Interlock Switch
    2_Type_M_Interlock_Relay_(resized).JPG
    That does not happen on 50 volt operating games that I have recently restored.

    Problem 4
    So now the game can reset and is ready to play. The pitcher unit fires the ball (rather weakly) and the bat lever swings the bat at the ball but hold on the bat lever can swing the bat continuously that’s not right. The bat relay should activate once only cutting power to the bat lever as soon as the bat EOS switch closed.

    This one took me some time to analysis. After checking all the switches …twice it was time to stop for the evening. The next evening with the power on I tweaked the bat EOS switch with a pencil when it actuated. If I held the contacts closed it energized the bat relay to close. Turns out the EOS switch needs a moment longer to actuate and energize the bat relay. Also as I had rebuilt this switch I have learned to always suspect my handy work. I reflowed the contact joint but it did not solve the contacting issue. So I bent the leaf switch blades back towards the closing pin so they contacted the actuating pin earlier and stayed closed longer. Success!

    See the picture below of the issue.

    Bat Unit EOS Switch
    3_Bat_EOS_Switch_(resized).jpg
    Problem 5
    The game now plays. I took the pitching unit of the game to tighten the spring tension on the bench, I find this easier. I remove the motor quickly and after screwing out the stop pin I hold the pitching arm and rotate the cam clockwise until it locks. However it would not turn this time, something was wrong. I released the spring tension by carefully lifting the cams followers from the dwells and letting the cam rotate anti clockwise a couple of turns.

    What can happen is the spring gets ‘pinched’ under the cam rotating collar as it is tensioned. It is important to keep this rotating face flat as we tension the spring. I had added two thin washers under the E clip and I guess this was the wrong location as at least one should have been under the collar as I was pinching the spring. This time everything was fine and the pitching unit now pitches way to fast so I need to take some tension off. I will do this later.

    Pitching Unit Spring Pinch Point
    4_Pitching_Unit_Spring_(resized).jpg
    Problem 6
    Another observation is the 6 Volt lights in the target assembly are not on. Per the lighting schematic there are four switches that needed to be closed so they would. Light switches for the target and light box game lights are on the Start, Tilt, Game over and Inning relays with the power on I tweaked the closed switch pairs and the game over switch was not making good contact and this fixed the lights to the target assembly. 6 Volt systems are fickle!

    Lighting Schematic
    5_Lighting_Schematic_(resized).JPG

    #86 3 years ago

    Further issue just resolved.
    Problem 7
    I played the game making sure it worked every time as it should. I found an intermittent problem. About every tenth game the game seemed to stall. It would not power the pitching unit. Dennis had told me that the pitching unit stalled occasionally so I replaced the motor so this was not the problem.
    The pitching unit however has a switch located on the target motor No 1 cam that needs to be closed. The target motor driven cams rotate once every time a target is hit to move an arm to reset the targets. The motor would occasionally overshoot the cam dwell stop position after the power was cut off. The power was not cutting off when the switch cam roller opened the switch in the stack.
    Target Motor Issue
    6_Target_Cam_Issue_(resized).jpg
    On review the motor rotor is not releasing its gear drive pins quick enough. I will need to take to the bench and check the spring condition. Basically it seemed to be clogged up and the spring was acting sluggishly. It seems to be behaving properly after another clean.
    The pictures below show the rotor powered and unpowered.
    Powered Rotor
    7_Motor_with_Power_(resized).JPG
    Unpowered Rotor
    8_Motor_No_Power_(resized).JPG
    The second game had a similar issue to above but it kept cycling and its issue was there was no spring. I added one from a spare motor and this fixed the issue. To do this however I had to drill out the motors rivets to clean and add the spring. I have learned there is a few variables when Multi Products made these motors. Getting a similar motor and using it seems straightforward but you need to ensure especially on a Williams’s game that there is a rotor with a separate rotor shaft and whether it needs a spring to break the driveshaft. Different manufactures had different specifications.
    Saying all that, no older game should be down long because of a problem with a motor as there is plenty on eBay and other sources wanting a home and we can make most work.

    Added over 4 years ago: Brake not break the drive shaft

    #88 3 years ago

    The gain from totally rebuilding a game in this depth is that it should be straightforward to get it working flawlessly and consistently. The problems above with the exception of the fuse and my mislabeling error were a little troublesome on both games so they are probable tricky areas where others may need some guidance. Tonight I fixed a bothersome running man misalignment issue and still have a jones plug connection issue but that is minor so getting these games close to perfect is close.

    I really hope people restore these baseball games and this topic will be useful to them. I won't do this level of documenting again as it takes a lot of time on top of the actual work. Leave the next one to someone else.

    #90 3 years ago
    Quoted from way2wyrd:

    Steve,
    could you expand more upon this. I have an overrun issue on mine as well and am not sure how to approach the issue
    Thanks,
    Jeff

    On the running man motor there are on my game 3 cams. On yours I believe there may be two.

    The outer cam controls the motor to stop after the runner reaches the correct base please see diagram below. I believe the motor cycles to the same position each time. One of the switches cam roller is adjustable so you can shut the motor down before or after the base to a degree. Mine was stopping sometimes with the man half way through the playfield. I adjusted the roller so it was further from the cam dwell forcing the motor to rotate a little more and this sorted every thing out.

    See switch 5 below.

    Running_man_Adjustment_(resized).JPG

    #93 3 years ago

    No I have not got another source. I found a pair of similar sized springs in a bingo pile that I think I could re shape so I may have a solution personally.

    We need a new source, maybe I need to call Steve as Jimmy inferred in his response to me he pulls parts from bins and a spring is a spring.

    Thanks tor telling us what the smaller spring is for.

    1 week later
    #94 3 years ago

    Finally reaching the finish line, don't know what was the hardest the games restore or this boring topic. Any way here is the final troubleshooting with some, if I may say fine pictures of a fine game, hope it helps someone that wants to restore a baseball game.

    Problem 8

    I was having an issue getting the extra inning lighting to operate continuously. It was mechanically working but if the ‘EXTRA INNING WHEN LIT’ arrows pointing to the home run target funnel do not activate you are never aware of the special.

    Extra Inning Arrows
    1_Extra_inning_Home_run_Lights_(resized).JPG
    When scoring a home run with the extra inning arrows lit an extra inning is awarded and the extra inning sign below will light.

    Back glass Extra Inning Lit Feature
    2_Extra_Inning_Feature_(resized).JPG
    I knew it was a contact and soon found it on the Inning relay with some probing with a pencil the lights occasionally worked. The core issue was not enough physical actuator movement to make the 3 way switches contact open and close properly. It looked perfect but looks are deceiving. I stripped out the relay including the bracket and found the bracket actuator stop arm was slightly bent.

    Relay Armature Stop Bracket
    3_Relay_Armature_Stop_Bracket_(resized).JPG
    Straightening this out give the switch leaf gaps a little more movement so necessary due to the close tolerances of these switches and this solved the issue. I don’t think this switch bracket was bent before I got the game but was due to me throwing everything in the tumbler and it probable got bent in there. Either way the stops position is critical to getting the switches to activate properly.

    Problem 9

    The 0-9 run scoring drum in one of the games was not adding runs properly and struggling to move to the next run. Additionally on the sixth run moved from 05 runs to 16 runs. This was one issue that exasperated me no end and I eventually moved onto other problems that I could work out and progress work. From time to time I would go back to it and pour over the schematic and game but to no avail. Finally it was the one of the last issues issue to solve before the game could be played and all the replay features checked off. I had to resolve it.

    The score reels are quite delicate in how they operate. There is not much room for the wiring, linkage and switches and circuit board under the reel. This makes it hard to see what is happening during operation and there lies the rub. Two things I eventually found watching the drum work manually. The circular copper contact was not making a good contact with the circuit board. Every time you take it apart you remove the circuit board to access the switches. The last time I had removed it I had not checked the contacts were properly aligned. This took only a few seconds to loosen the two screws and position the circuit board, it took me days to figure out to actually do it.

    Copper Contact Ring on Circuit Board
    4b_Copper_Contact_on_Circuit_Board_(resized).jpg
    Secondly the upper switch that pulses signaling the adjacent 10-90 drum step up coil to activate was brushing the 5th to 6th run circuit board solder blob and probably shorting out the switch making it operate prematurely. Again positioning the switch cam roller a little lower and away from the solder points solved this issue. I had played with this drum over and over without noticing this misalignment as it is so difficult to see unless you move the reel.

    Drum 10-90 Run Switch
    5_Drum_10-90_Run_SW_(resized).JPG
    I guess this type of experience is what moves you from a newbie to a seasoned fiddler. Seems so simple now but I had to learn to be much more studious when troubleshooting.

    Problem 10

    The last issue was with the Grand Slam feature again on both games. The Grand Slam feature activates when as you would expect when a home run is scored with three men on base. The Grand Slam drum is operated by a Grand Slam Relay which was not firing when it should.

    Backglass Grand Slam Feature Score Reel window and Light
    6_Grand_Slam_Feature_(resized).JPG
    The schematic as shown indicates a bunch of switches and jones plugs must be closed and on review they all seem to OK. Additionally the Grand Slam light flashes due to the mix stepper stepping up and activated by a switch on the Grand Slam relay.

    Grand Slam Relay Schematic
    7_Grand_Slam_Schematic_(resized).JPG
    I, as usual suspected my handiwork so to review this meant taking out a running man assembly and moving to the work bench for examination and tweaking. I improved the switching even going so far as turning some switch leaf pairs 180° blades as the contacts were very worn . I also soldered the back of the contact to ensure a good connection. I put it all back in the game but no success. Sure now it was not my assembly mistake I could looked at the game wiring. I made a jumper from the Grand Slam Relay contact to the No 4 re switch and the circuit worked. A few more changes of jumper position isolated the Motor Relay switch as the issue.

    It turned out the Motor Relay was not closing when it needed to be during operation. I could see no way to adjust the timing of the running man cams to make this switch close and eventually closed the switch with an alligator clip to see what happened and the game worked flawlessly. The second machine was the same and worked only with the alligator clip closing the problem Motor Relay switch permanently. I don’t know if originally this switch was closed and I readjusted to the schematic during the restore or what.

    I am going out on a limb here but I think the switch is redundant and serves no purpose. I have now closed the switch contacts permanently and see no issues in how the game works. This was the first drop target game and Williams tweaked this target assembly a fair bit over the next few games streamlining the circuitry and removing a 3rd Cam from the running man that was not used before or after I believe.

    So we have completed the six month restoration journey, plenty of research and pre planning before the restore , collecting information, parts, schematics and information. These machines have no boards or any thing digital. Cloth wiring all analogue and built to last. With some help could last into the next century as long as you have 110 V still available in your house that’s the real risk.

    Both games are now working 100% and look fabulous. They will get played over the next month or so to ensure they work flawlessly before going to their new homes for hopefully another generation to have fun with.

    Here are some pictures enjoy.
    8_GA5_(resized).JPG
    One game for a nickel three for a quarter, come on get your money ready!
    9_GA2_(resized).JPG
    Games cabinets came out well
    10_GA3_(resized).JPG
    Game Art Side View
    GA4_(resized).JPG
    Three Dimensional Running Man
    12_DSC04959_(resized).JPG

    #97 3 years ago
    Quoted from hoov:

    Bravo Steve!
    Thanks for documenting. Will come in handy if I ever find the time to do mine.

    I expect the same level of restoration also for sure! Remember I have decals for the targets that look great, decal for the front moulding and a bat unit and front mouldings with bat levers assemblies that need a home.

    #99 3 years ago
    Quoted from hoov:Steve,
    Please pm me a price for all those items when you get time. No hurry. I know I can use the front moulding decal for sure.
    Thanks.......Dave

    I got a pm after writing that. However, I have duplicates of what was requested.

    I will dig them out . Only need to cover my purchase cost.

    #100 3 years ago

    I have made most if not all the labels found throughout the game. There is one instruction card stapled to the back box that eludes me. Can any one help with a picture of it so I can replicate.

    Happy to offer anyone a word document of all the labels.

    Here is the missing label location.

    Back_Box_Instructions._(resized).JPG

    #101 3 years ago

    Thanks Pat for the label snapshot.

    3 weeks later
    #105 3 years ago

    Hi Spencer.

    Thanks for the labels. I have all the labels now and other game instructions copied in a word file for any one that wants it.

    I have a spare apron for the game. PM me. I at least can sent you the apron sticker for this game. They have really held up with the 2PAC clear finish. It is very hard and protects the top so well. I have spare target stickers also for a couple of games, again they have not marked at all over at least 100 games. The 2PAC clear is very good.

    I use 15W bulbs still get hot but no damage so far. Best restores I have ever completed.

    6 months later
    #110 2 years ago

    Great you are planning to fix up your game, Its well worth it. Nighthawk128 is spot on where to start looking.

    I attach some pictures from the thread with some general notes to support Nighthawk128. We will get the game running in know time so keep posting. Over time the steppers get gummed up if not operated.

    Bottom Board (resized).jpg

    Steppers on Bottom Board (resized).jpg

    #112 2 years ago

    The reason to lift it out is so you can see it work close up and save your back. For me the aching back is the worst.

    You need to disassemble the stepper electrical harness switches and coils. Then you can bring it to the bench. Before you disassemble get used to taking picture first. lastly if you do remove the bottom board you need to undo some jones plugs in the head and pull the power cable through.

    #114 2 years ago

    Yup, that is typical for a stepper that has not been rotated for quite awhile.

    The center spring needs about 2-3 turns no more if all is clean.

    I put an arrow to the three points that need to move freely in the picture above.

    Did you put all the springs back after you cleaned? Replacements are available from PBR, but that should not be necessary unless they are missing or look damaged.

    To clean thoroughly you need to undo the Bakelite rotating contact wheel on the opposite side. Then you can remove the center shaft with the cog. When you have cleaned the parts some teflon type lube on the metal to metal moving points and on the gear teeth (very little).

    #116 2 years ago

    The mix unit varies the fast and slow pitch for one.

    Once this is clean we can see if your game works.

    #118 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Steve, I have the mix unit cleaned. The mix unit gear appears to be able to rotate a full revolution, if the linkage marked with a W (without the circle around the W) is actuated. The problem I see, is how does this happen when the mix unit has only one solenoid? I don't have the solenoid installed, but the plunger is installed in the location of the lone solenoid. See my pictures for what I am talking about. Should there be one or two solenoids on the mix unit?

    Yes this stepper is the simplest type and is known as a "Continuous Rotation stepper unit". It has only one coil as it does not need to be reset so there is not a "Reset Coil". There is also no need for a center spring to bring it home or a space on the cam teeth to stall incremental stepping up further than designed. They are used for number matching or random feature alternating etc. The linkage with the W stamped is a pawl assembly, it is still needed along with the brass adjustment set screw to keep pressure on the drive arm that is contacting with the 50 tooth ratchet gear. In this instance it alternates powering the fast pitch relay or not. and probably the end of game match score number. I don't have the schematic to see if it does another feature.

    The most common stepper is a Total Reset stepper unit. Like the "outs stepper unit" adjacent to it and it it counts the outs and also if a bonus inning is awarded so there are at least six contacts not 3. Once the max number of innings are reached then the cam teeth gap is reached and it cannot move further. Once you start another game the reset coil is powered and it releases the linkage with the w stamped (pawl) and the center spring snaps it back to its home position.

    The last type is a "Single Step Reset stepper Unit". On your game this would be the "Relay Unit", it has more bits added and has two coils etc as it adds replays during the game but has to knock one credit of to start a game when the reset coil is powered.

    Soon be ready to play this game I think.

    Steve J.

    #120 2 years ago

    Looking at your pictures I would in your next order to PBR get some spring kits for the steppers. It is not critical to do so now but down the road.

    This game deserves some love/spoiling.

    #126 2 years ago

    I was looking at my run unit before and after pics on page 2 when you answered. Do you have a question still on the reset position or is it all clear?

    #128 2 years ago

    Definitely addition wires. We need to look at the schematic to ensure the other connections are correct so we can understand why they were added. I will look at the schematic to night as intrigued.

    From memory the game over is when the 3rd out occurs, Power off switch or game is tilted etc. Possibly the op had another reason. Where do they terminate at the back of the game. Seems strange unless they went to the light box door.

    I will take a proper pic of mine this evening and post to ensure the remaining wiring looks right.

    I have attached before and after pic's but they don't fully answer what we need.

    Game Over relay Post Restore (resized).JPG
    Game Over Relay Before restore (resized).JPG

    #129 2 years ago

    I took some better pictures of the Game Over switches as the previous were too small.

    On the bottom are 4 switches and from the outside are;

    3 way light switch (6V).
    3 way switch that cuts power if tilted, and shuts power to the game.
    2 way NC, Bat Coil (110V).
    2 way, NC, Special Relay.

    Upper 2 switches and from the outside are;

    2 way NC, power from tilt 3 way switch on diagram (but is actually part of 2 X 2 way switches on both my games) to Game Over Latch.
    2 way NO, to 0-9 score to beat drum.

    So see if these pics and switch descriptions help you work out what is going on.

    DSC05517 (resized).JPG
    DSC05519 (resized).JPG
    DSC05518 (resized).JPG

    #131 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Thanks Steve for the close up photos and explanation. I discovered that on your machines, there are two sets of contacts in the top row, and on my machine, there are three. The other ends of the two added wires go nowhere and at this time (they sit back by the transformer) are not connected together but appear to have been at one point in the past.

    Yeh, The added wires were added by an op. I would strip them out.

    Obviously as connected to the 'game over' relay they offered power until the game ended. Could have added by the op to power a hidden meter perhaps?

    #133 2 years ago

    I will send you a start button. Pm me your address.

    At the start of this topic on the first page I listed people that make some parts for baseball games. Scott Webb has a few really valuable things listed like buttons.

    The reels are fiddly also you need to check the switch solder joints. Williams seem to have had some issues in the early 60's that they seem to need resoldering after 50 years. Where is the quality I ask you!

    #135 2 years ago

    The Bat EOS switch needs to close momentarily longer than other switches to energize the Bat relay before opening. Its covered in thread #85 in the troubleshooting section.

    3 Bat EOS Switch (resized).jpg

    1 week later
    #138 2 years ago

    It's a one piece unfortunately. I was able to find a replacement score reel on eBay and changed one out. If you know someone in your area that can braze I have the two perfectly good parts you can have.

    #140 2 years ago

    Ok, I can sent the two parts to Scott for brazing and provide Kevin's address if he agree's and this will all work out. Kevin you agree?

    #141 2 years ago

    Hi Scot,

    Here are the pictures of the one needing brazing. Probably better to make a new part so it can be pressed in a designed. I can send the parts to you if you want to try.

    Kevin,

    Add this parted to the thread for EM Parts wanted. This part is quite common as it was used on all early Williams score reels.

    DSC05554 (resized).JPG
    DSC05555 (resized).JPG

    4 weeks later
    #150 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Thanks for the additional tips Nighthawk. Just getting back to reassembly of the Score To Beat reels.
    I found one of the moving parts to be worn out on the piece which moves with each actuation of the coil. It's the copper colored bushing in the attached photo. I've also shown the other assembly which has this piece in tact for reference.
    I'm not sure if just this piece is available, or if it's pressed into the hole it sits in and can't easily be replaced.
    I need to check PBR to see if these pieces are available.

    Kevin,

    Post your need on this thread; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread/page/63#post-3645832

    I checked again on eBay for a parts reel but no go.

    #151 2 years ago

    Spencer (Nighthawk128),

    I have been making steady progress on the front moulding. It is now complete after clear. However, I need to let it cure and shrink back prior one last sanding on top and re-polishing the finish back. You have been patient so a little longer and it will becoming back.

    Rebuilding the corner and the bat lever slot with Bondo and Half Time.
    DSC05563 (resized).JPG
    Re-dowelled the original holes and cleaned this area as well as I could.

    Primed and sprayed the correct orange color (your color was spot on too).
    DSC05580 (resized).JPG
    Finally cleared and re-cleared (kept touching it to see it was dry and wasn't).
    DSC05599 (resized).JPG
    DSC05635 (resized).JPG
    DSC05636 (resized).JPG

    One last sanding in a month and we can finish and get in the post.

    Steve J.

    #154 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Very nice work Steve! I'm amazed at the work you continue to share on restoring this machine!!! I have yet to install the Home Run plastic from you, but it is excellent.

    The plastic and back glass being unavailable for so long means a lot of these games have not been a top priority for restoration. The front moulding is another opportunity for improvement as I show above. I add a new topping overlay (sounds better than a sticker) and here is the result. Spencer came up with this idea and made the first overlay. I remade it as I am a little anal and returning his help with this rework of his moulding.

    #156 2 years ago

    It is a Bondo like product that Chris Hutchins of HEP fame mentioned recently in a restoration topic. If he thought it was worth using instead of Bondo then I was interested.

    It is good possibly a little finer but very similar to Bondo. It uses much less hardener so If you mix a small amount you really need to make sure the filler and hardener are thoroughly mixed. I need to use the large Half time can up so I won't be buying more bondo soon. However, for what I use it for bondo is fine.

    Halftime (resized).JPG

    #157 2 years ago

    People add washers to get the numbers to line up in the back-glass window. Try it with out. and yes the wheel turns with the shaft so it can't be touching the assembly and binding.

    #160 2 years ago

    I used auto paint and it is mixed special by the girls at my AJ Foyt paint store. Spencer nailed his color match and I am sure he knows.

    Steve.

    #162 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nighthawk128:

    Wow Steve it looks great! I was on the fence about using carriage bolts but I think it's the right thing to do to prevent the mess I had from happening again. I assume 1/4" x 1.5" Long? Marco has a nice selection.
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4320-01123-24
    Or maybe #10 x 1.25"
    http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4310-01123-20
    Looking forward to it!

    I can supply screws I use. I also have a local hardware store that has the carriage bolts. Let me look at this.

    #165 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    I was able to find a picture of the bat lever assembly but still have a question on the proper way the return spring is installed.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1963-major-league-restoration?tq=bat&tu
    I'll need to get three clips for the bat lever. The return spring is fastened to the bracket on one end and around the bat lever on the other end of the spring. With the spring secured this way, the bat lever will never rest against the hex shaped piece as the spring puts tension on the lever, pulling it upwards. I've attached a picture of my bat lever assembly.

    Oh wow, that will not work well.

    You need two E clips. The issue is that in a few games Williams uses an unconventional spring that did not pivot of a post. As your picture shows you have no post not the special spring (that is not very good either). I suggest we drill a hole for a bolt to mimic a spring pivot post. I can send you a spring that I have modified to work and has a lot of tension.

    Bat Lever Assemblies (resized).JPG

    #166 2 years ago

    Here is the parts book reference on where to put the clips.

    You also need the internal spring that cushions the lever #10A-164 and PBR has them.
    However the spring that we all need is the 10A-184 has been cleaned out a long time ago. I will send you one made to fit.

    Any questions let me know.

    Parts book Reference (resized).JPG

    #167 2 years ago

    For information the spring that was fitted probably on this game only is shown below. This is not shown in any parts book I have seen as was a poor solution.

    Weird Spring (resized).JPG

    #169 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Steve, thanks for the photos andsuggestion to install a new pivot post for the spring. Yes, that would be great to get a spring from you. I have the internal cushion spring, and it appears in decent condition.

    I am traveling for work but will be back soon and get the one spring I have left shortened and out to you.

    Looking forward to seeing this game up and running soon.

    Did you install the new target stickers and clear them yet.

    #171 2 years ago

    The baseball men are reproducible by following my tutorial starting on thread 71. Mark Gibson made a jpeg and Clay Harrell linked here on Pinside.

    Thanks to Mark Gibson, the players are now downloadable from
    http://www.pinrepair.com/baseball/pbplayers.jpg just print on waterslide laser paper and you are all done.

    To replace the man you will need to drill out the rivets and re-rivet. The rivet from mt tutorial says it is a 3/32” X 5/32” long rivet. I made the riveter from a kit sold by Pinrestore's and a harbor freight press. http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html this tool has been used on every restore for something since I made it. However, you might invest in some 1/8" & 3/32" rivet rollover punches and a hammer on a vice hard area. Buy from http://www.hansonrivet.com/hand-rivet-clinchers.htm I bought a bunch of tubular rivets 1/8" and 3/32" from Steve at PBR.

    You don't need to re-rivet the target overlays. Just remove the target assembly from the game to the bench and just stick on and perhaps spray with any type of clear gloss for years of protection.

    1 week later
    #172 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Thanks for offering to send the spring Steve. Let me know if you need my address again.

    Kevin,

    You get that modified spring yet?

    #174 2 years ago
    Quoted from Nighthawk128:

    ... I've been at this machine for 4 long years! this is the final piece of the puzzle what Steve is doing. Mine was had so much wrong with it,...
    http://www.myperfectcolor.com/en/color/92302_Cloverdale-Paint-AC-110-Gilded-Vision

    Hi Spencer,

    Time to get my sanding and polishing gear out this week end, finish your moulding and get back to you.

    #178 2 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Hi Spencer,
    Time to get my sanding and polishing gear out this week end, finish your moulding and get back to you.

    Hi Spencer, Problem, I was sanding and went trough the the clear, never done this before. Anyway had another over lay and replaced the ruined one and added the last one i had and re-cleared. A lot of clear this time. Be a few more weeks.

    Sorry Steve.

    DSC05714 (resized).JPG

    #179 2 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Hi Spencer, Problem, I was sanding and went trough the the clear, never done this before. Anyway had another over lay and replaced the ruined one and added the last one i had and re-cleared. A lot of clear this time. Be a few more weeks.
    Sorry Steve.

    Better news Spencer. I recleared the overlay and decided this morning not to wait a month before sanding the clear. It came out really well and I polished it to an ideal finish.I Don't want to put in the post for a week so next Saturday is the target. If you could pin me and tell me how you want it posted so I don't pay to much like the last time.

    #181 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Steve,
    No spring in my mailbox tonight!

    Spring returned in the mail saying wrong address. Please pm me your address you want it sent again please.

    1 week later
    #183 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Steve, I received the spring in the mail Saturday. I'm thankful for the great guys I've crossed paths with in this forum! Thank you so much.
    Kevin

    You are very welcome. It's all part of my Major League devious renaissance plan. The bat lever spring that I cut down I believe is stocked by Ace Hardware. So this spring at least is not an issue.

    We need a spring supplier for the E5613 pitching unit now. I am sure if we all agree to buying ten each we could get a good price. As I make the home run plastic I have a good idea how many people that is. . Note; spring now available. See my thread link https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-pitch-unit-springs-now-available#post-4262127

    #184 2 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Better news Spencer. I recleared the overlay and decided this morning not to wait a month before sanding the clear. It came out really well and I polished it to an ideal finish.I Don't want to put in the post for a week so next Saturday is the target. If you could pin me and tell me how you want it posted so I don't pay to much like the last time.

    Spencer I had to leave for work for a couple weeks so sent the moulding to you this morning. It's not the best I could have done but it is still very good. I hope you like it. I added some correct bolts including the carriage bolts and the ones I like. The carriage bolts may require you to open the bat assembly holes a tad. Your choice.

    Postage to Canada sucks but you will already know that. I will pm you the postage cost. You will see it in 10 days.

    #186 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Good news! I was able to tackle the start -up issue I had by following the schematic and running continuity checks! Thanks Steve for providing guidance. Turns out the issue was a broken wire that went from one side of the fuse holder to a lock relay contact and game over relay contact. All score reels, targets, high score to beat, and man unit reset!
    The bat was not working, as it was seized from lack of use, and dried up grease. I disassembled the unit and was able to break it free using penetrant oil, and moving the bat attachment repeatedly. Even with all the linkage disconnected, there is still some stiction in the motion at both extremes.
    I decided to reinstall the bat assembly, to check the operation. The bat will swing when I press the bat button, but it won't retract.
    Any suggestions, besides drilling out the rivets, on how to get some more play in the joint as shown? Thanks!

    So glad you found the loose wire. Continuity checking with a schematic is key for getting games to work correctly.

    Should be no reason the bat arm does not turn freely. That bat frame is a newer version than your game not that it matters. Did you drop the bat arm out of the collar and clean the arm and collar hole? Are you sure it is not the linkage, I would like to see a picture of the linkage components.

    #190 2 years ago

    Kevin,

    They are all push fit parts. Look at this batting unit tutorial it may help.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-1883604

    #191 2 years ago

    Kevin,

    Please remove this pin and the parts can be all taken apart.

    Bat Unit (resized).JPG

    #193 2 years ago

    Well thank you Wayne. I thought I would do one comprehensive restoration write up on a type of game that deserved it. I had to research a bunch of info to get my games fully operational. Seemed fair to put it all together for others.

    Dennis Dodel lent me some parts to get a baseball game saved from the dumpster and his kindness and pay it forward nature rubbed of on me a bit. He then sold me a spare major league game he had and the restoration project started.

    The way pinside is now set up with only 24 hours editing lockdown to get you words right or make exceptions will mean there is no way I could write another one again as constant editing to get reference data perfect or revisions is necessary. I wish they would make exceptions for the restoration threads.

    I always enjoy your restoration topics as you have a no stopping always moving forward style. You caused me now to always look at sheet metal bending equipment after looking at you coin boxes. Must resist, must resist....

    #198 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    Updated to above on my attempt to get the part which attaches to the bat separated for further cleaning. No luck I didn't have a gear puller that fit and attempted combinations of prying, trying to separate the bushing from the collar with a thin screwdriver, but to no avail.

    No gear pullers needed. Also no rivets needing removing.

    1. Remove the coil plunger part after you remove the pin. Pry it off with a screwdriver.
    plunger (resized).JPG
    2. next pry off the drive arm.
    Drive arm (resized).JPG
    3. The next part is either a two piece or three piece part. Doesn't matter as you gently hammer out using a piece of wood between the hammer and the screw threads the assembly. its just old hardened grease holding it in.
    Drive arm assembly. (resized).JPG
    No more part need disassembly. Clean this all up and all will work as new.

    #199 2 years ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    Steve
    I am very conscious of your point on the sheetmetal equipment. I agonised for some time whether it could be justified & would be useful in the overall scheme of things. Anyhow as so often seems to occur (perhaps male impulse) I went ahead and purchased locally a 3 in 1 guillotine, bender & roller. These are made in China (surprise/surprise!) and I think Harbor Freight may sell them....

    Wow! That's why I need these tools too! If we have them we use them. I think for the leg bolt covers alone I should invest. That's why I bought a lathe. I don't need it every restore but when I do....

    I think if we were to list all the tools we may need for a pinball game restore our lists may be longer than some others.

    I was very lucky after leaving school that as a first year apprentice I went to trade school for the first year. Hands on learned on machining, welding sheet metal work and fitting. Best training I ever had.

    #201 2 years ago

    Kevin,

    The frame frame collar and the bat arm assembly are a loose fit normally. As you say its just very tight!

    If you want put the bat lock nut on and whack it with a hammer hard and often.

    #204 2 years ago

    Amazing how old grease can imitate a locktite product.
    Your frame shows zero wear from binding so all is well.

    What's next?

    #206 2 years ago

    Have you taken out the target assembly? There are switches on the target cams. The schematic tells you which switch is where on the diagrams on the right lower part of the schematic. With a multi meter and continuity wire this will be straight forward to sort out.

    I am away from home working so do not have access to the schematic.

    1 week later
    #209 2 years ago

    Kev, you have the schematic yes? I am traveling so recalling this from memory.

    You can make a jumper wire say 5' long withe two alligator clips?

    Quest 1. There is a line of relays at the bottom of the cabinet board adjacent to the transformer that work in series to fire the grand slam relay and flash a light. The grand slam reel is powered by the grand slam relay the other two relays action the flashing light with a stepper. It is discussed a bit in the troubleshooting section #10 of this thread. Set up the grand slam and watch the relays to see if they all move in series. The one that doesn't is the culprit. If they all move then a switch is not closing properly. You should be able to use the jumper to power the relay using the schematic and zero in on the switch or switches that are not working.

    Quest 2. Regarding the color of the bats there was tan, brown and recently black. I cut the little arm off the back and use them. There all you can buy so invest in three of them and you will be fine. Remember to buy more than one as they sell out for months (Marco) so don't think the supplier will always have them available.

    Quest 3. Regarding the incline it should not be the issue. If the bottom of the cabinet is level it is fine. Two problems with the power of the hit. Main issue is the pitch and is it fast enough. Second is the bat strength. It has a variable podimeter inside the front door that can be adjusted. Tell us which it is and we can move on from there.

    Quest 4. It's a switch on the out stepper. Or bulbs.

    Steve J

    #211 2 years ago

    Sounds like the jones plugs.

    9 months later
    #213 1 year ago

    All,

    I have had the pitching spring for this game remade. its as good or better than the original. See my thread linked for availability. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-pitch-unit-springs-now-available#post-4262127

    Steve J.

    #215 1 year ago

    Kevin,
    Send me your address I will post one to you. The door is straight forward to clean up. Your door was chromed originally gut others from that time period were painted with a silver Hammer finish. That is what I used.

    Steve

    1 month later
    #217 1 year ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    TIme to get back to the machine. Glad to see your still active on here Steve. Just getting back on this thread has made me wonder why I have been gone so long!
    Regarding your tip with my intermittent with my machine not starting up fully, would you recommend I clean all the contacts on the jones plugs, or inspect/reflow the solder joints?

    Kevin,
    Better refresh me what is happening, and we can take it from there.

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