E-5613 Pitcher Unit
Motor Driver Side View
Ball lift Side View
The E-5613 Pitcher Unit was installed in Williams’s baseball type games starting in 1958 with the Short Stop and through the 1963 Major League game when it was replaced on the Grand Slam in 1964 with the D-6322 unit. It did not change in design through that time. A notable exception was on the Official Baseball game which had a unique E-5570 unit which worked with the pitcher figure on the playfield. The subsequent pitcher unit the D-6322 was modified through its life so ensure you are aware of the changes if you try to take parts from one for another.
How it works
The E-5613 assembly unit is a clever piece of engineering. It has a motor driven cam connected to a pitcher arm and tensioned with a spring. Stop dogs in the cam dwells lock the pitcher arm until the motor is powered rotating the cam and releasing the dogs. The unit is straight forward to understand. To assist explain how it operates I find it simpler to look at the unit from its two sides. The left motor driver side and the right ball lift side.
Motor Driver Side
See below the motor side with the motor removed.
Includes the control cam, tension spring, motor and switch assemblies. These switches control the pitch motor run and other pitch control functions in conjunction with switches on the control motor. The pitcher arm is tensioned with a spring, I recommend you fit a new spring while the pitching assembly is apart. The Pinball Resource stocks. 1-28-2016, Strike that PBR have an incorrect one in stock and it cannot be made to work.
The pitcher arm is held by cam stop dogs until the motor rotates the cams releasing the spring tensioned pivot arm and throws a ball at the batter. The switches should be adjusted for a 1/32” gap and a 1/32” follow thru. It is recommended to lightly lube the cam edges, stop dog edge and all pivot points.
Motor, Bracket and cam drive arm
Motor Driver Side without the Motor
Ball Lift Side
Includes a fast pitch assembly that releases a brake like a cars brake ‘pad’. The ball gravity feeds from the trough and is raised by a pitcher arm up a circular guide rail onto the playfield. The guide rail arms can be adjusted (bent) to direct the ball release to the batters left or right sides.
Ball Lift Guide Rails
As this is a one player game a stepper unit is used to randomize the pitches. The brake pad is always rubbing against the pitcher arm brake disc until the fast pitch coil is activated then it is released so the ball can fly faster. The current game pads are ok for wear so we will leave them alone. If they need changing a tutorial is in my World Series game topic.
Current Game brake ‘pads’
Finally the last component that could affect the pitch operating correctly is attached to the playfield itself the pitcher flap. The flap lifts without impinging on the ball and lowers immediately afterwards. The flap should be adjusted to be (by two hold down screws) parallel to the playfield and to have a smooth release tension.
Pitcher Speed Adjustment
The games pitch adjustment diagrams and instructions to adjust the slow and fast pitch are shown below. They are written if you are doing the adjustment in situ on the game. The slow pitch is simple enough as it is simply turning a spring loaded (B) adjustment screw (A). See the first paragraph.
As we don’t adjust these assemblies often it is easier to take the unit off the game and fix on the bench. This involves removing four screws that connect the unit to the playfield, two screws uncoupling the ball trough and detaching the jones plug electrical connection. Now at the bench we need to access the driving cam and pitching arm to tension adjustment the fast pitch. We need to take off the motor and its bracket by removing a further three bracket screws.
View of Motor Side with Motor and Wire harness Removed
To adjust the tension on the pitching arm to alter the fast pitch we need to release the stop screw ‘E’. The tension spring ends are connected to the pitching arm cam and the other end to the driving cam. The release of the stop screw uncouples the two cams but they are still connected by the stop dogs so all is still locked and nothing will move. There is only about 2 to 2 ½ turns max of this spring, so there is not a whole lot of adjustment.
Tension Spring Adjustment
If you want to increase spring tension grip the pitch arm and turn the driving cam clockwise half a turn if possible. If you want to release then spring tension then grip the pitch arm while hold the driving cam release its stop dog from the cam dwell with your finger and allow the driving cam to unwind ½ a turn. When complete turn the stop screw back in to lock the pitching arm to the driving cam and you are ready to assemble.
To replace the tension spring release all the tension as above then remove the retaining clip from the center post and lift of the cam. The spring is held in place on the cam adjuster notches and its other end is held in a hole in the pitcher arm circular body.
Remove the old spring and add the new one by first hooking the end in the pitcher arm cam. Then replace the driving cam carefully hooking the other spring end in the middle notch with a screwdriver. Ensure there is still a thin washer beneath the driving cam on the post before fitting. Then add a second thin washer on the post before locking in place with the clip. Originally there was a plastic washer that I believed fitted snugly in the driving cam recess collar. I found only broken remains in my game, it will work without. However, ensure the new spring does not get caught beneath the collar and the pitcher cam as you tension.
Pitching Units Cleaning & Re-plating
The units were stripped down and small parts made ready for the tumbler. Components that were oily and greasy were put in the ultrasonic and wiped clean before adding to the tumbler. This saves time and increases the life of the shells. The larger brackets and components were quite rusty so were put in an Evaporust bath over night to see how they would clean up. Unfortunately a lot of the electroplating was gone so the brackets needed re-plating.
Tumbling; the metal work was quite dingy overall. The hardware was rusted on one of the games in particular, so components may needed re-plating. Tumbling parts is time consuming so you do it whilst doing other things. I usually run the tumbler for 48 hours to get where I can consider accepting them for refitting. I am using ‘Scratch Out’ as a polish medium in the tumbler and sometimes parts are OK after only 24 hours.
Scratch out Polish Additive
It is readily available from O'Riellys and much cheaper than Flitz. Did I say much cheaper?
Brackets were missing zinc plating
I replate with an Eastwood home kit and the results have been more than satisfactory to date. Games that I have re-plated parts a couple of years ago are still looking as good as the day I did them. The Autosol paste shine has dulled but that is cosmetic. I use also a 'Fast Etch' solution as the pre pickling bath prior electroplating, it seems to prepare the metal for the dip quite well. The replating is not nickel but a tin zinc plating.
It’s straightforward to set up. The kit gives you the solutions, power source and plating strips. Make sure you have the correct safety PPE gloves, safety glasses, long sleeve shirt etc.
Electroplating Pre Plating Set up.
Electroplating set up.
Typical routine is;
1. Sand or grind the surface of part to be plated removing the old plating back to metal. I use a palm sander with 120 grit, a dremel and or a small grinder. What scratches you leave will be there after the plating. I don’t always clean all the old plating off if it is well ‘stuck’ as I am after the corrosion protection more than the cosmetic look, but that’s me.
2. Put in the Fast Etch for 3- 5 minutes. Use your rubber gloves and have a pair of tongs to remove.
3. Remove from etch and dip in the water to neutralize.
Metal after Fast etch; dull and clean
4. Attach the material negative black connector to the piece and lower into the electroplating solution completely submerging. The other end positive red connector is connected to the plating strip already in the solution.
5. Leave between 4 -10 minutes in the plating solution and remove once it has a white cloudy appearance. Again dip into the water bucket to neutralize the chemicals and it is ready for polish.
Results from bath and polish.
6. Using the Autosol paste rub over and leave for a few minutes to work its magic. Then polish with a clean rag until you are happy with the shine.
Results after about 5 hours work dipping and polishing are very acceptable to me.
I had two incorrect motors gearboxes on the unit’s one a 28 RPM and the other one a 24 RPM both with standard coils. Originally they should be a 17 RPM with a heavy duty coil. I had played the unit with the 24 RPM motor and it worked OK. Dennis Dodel whom I got the better game from said the motor he sold me stuck occasionally. Fortunately I was able to get two NOS motors off eBay that were the correct RPM and had heavy duty coils. Additionally one was the correct motor so yippee!
NOS Pitching 17 RPM Motors
The open frame motor tested at 16 RPM though its nameplate was 14 RPM. The shaft was ½” too long so I will cut that back in a jiffy.
RPMs of NOS Motors after bench test
The NOS original motor has a closed frame gearbox and that concerned me. I did not know what the grease was like after 52 years sitting on the shelf. So I drilled out the rivets and opened it up.
The grease was hardening up so I am glad I opened the gearbox up. I cleaned the gears and re-lubed with ‘Magnalube’ and put back together. I fastened using 3/16” copper tube as rivets to replace the original brass rivets. After retesting with the bench transformer power it still purrs.
So time to reassemble the pitching units and move on the playfields to see what needs to be done with them.
Reassembled Pitching Unit with NOS Motor
Pitch Motor showing the Fast Ball arrangement