(Topic ID: 147356)

Williams 1963 Major League Restoration - Complete


By SteveinTexas

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 217 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by SteveinTexas
  • Topic is favorited by 32 Pinsiders

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    There are 217 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
    #201 2 years ago

    Kevin,

    The frame frame collar and the bat arm assembly are a loose fit normally. As you say its just very tight!

    If you want put the bat lock nut on and whack it with a hammer hard and often.

    #202 2 years ago

    Kevin, maybe post another picture showing what the linkage side of the assembly looks like now that you've disassembled it a bit. As Steve mentioned that bat arm assembly should slide out in the direction I marked on your last picture.

    IMG_0634 (resized).JPG

    #203 2 years ago

    I was able to get the bat arm assembly free from the frame collar!!! Thanks Steve and Tuffano for the tips.

    The attached picture shows how I ensured I preserved the threads. This was so tight that hitting the nut with a wood block impaled the nut in the wood! I put an acorn nut on the bat arm threads, and then used a hammer on the handle of a nut driver placed over the acorn nut.

    I cleaned up the inside of the collar arm with some 800 sandpaper on a dowel attached to a cordless drill. I also sanded any rough spots on the edges of the bat arm assembly, as well as the collar.

    Nice action, though it has some rebound due to either needing new rubber bumpers and I may try a new spring.

    Thanks again!

    IMG_20170504_203934 (resized).jpg

    IMG_20170504_203959 (resized).jpg

    #204 2 years ago

    Amazing how old grease can imitate a locktite product.
    Your frame shows zero wear from binding so all is well.

    What's next?

    #205 2 years ago

    I still have some work to do. It appears that any target that is hit with the ball is only knocking the target down and that's it. The man unit is not activating, the score reels are not turning, and the outs are not illuminating (have not checked the bulbs yet).

    When should the targets reset? After the ball is pitched, or only after a target is knocked down?
    I'll see if I can read more about the basic operation of the game. I think I saw something in another post, and a couple of videos online.

    #206 2 years ago

    Have you taken out the target assembly? There are switches on the target cams. The schematic tells you which switch is where on the diagrams on the right lower part of the schematic. With a multi meter and continuity wire this will be straight forward to sort out.

    I am away from home working so do not have access to the schematic.

    #207 2 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Have you taken out the target assembly? There are switches on the target cams. The schematic tells you which switch is where on the diagrams on the right lower part of the schematic. With a multi meter and continuity wire this will be straight forward to sort out.
    I am away from home working so do not have access to the schematic.

    I have not removed the target assembly yet. I see the switches on the target cams you are referring to on the schematic. Seems fairly straightforward.

    Thanks Steve.

    1 week later
    #208 2 years ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    I have not removed the target assembly yet. I see the switches on the target cams you are referring to on the schematic. Seems fairly straightforward.
    Thanks Steve.

    I studied the schematic for the target assembly, ready to tackle the gremlins in my machine. When I plugged it in, the man unit reset, and upon starting a new game, almost everything is working properly!!! The Triple target did not work, but after I removed the home run plastic, it too started working.
    Spencer once said something to the effect of the more you play the game, the more things will start working!

    Issues:
    1) The Grand Slam scoring unit does not move at all. I am assuming that the scoring reel is intended to increment on a typical grand slam, as in the real game of baseball. I manually loaded the bases by pressing the targets, then dropped a ball in the home run opening. Nothing.

    2) The bat on my machine has a round hole, so it is slipping. I looked at the repro bats, and they have a 1/4" square opening. What was the original bat color on these machines? I've only seen them offered in black from places such as Marco.

    3) Hitting the ball does not appear to have much power, often times just grazing a target and draining. It could be that the machine is too level....I have it on a carpeted surface. Any suggestions on how the incline should be set?

    4) The out lights are not illuminating but I know the outs are adding up correctly, as I get three outs per game. It may just be the bulbs. I'll look at that tonight.

    THANKS EVERYONE FOR GETTING ME THIS FAR!!!

    Kevin

    #209 2 years ago

    Kev, you have the schematic yes? I am traveling so recalling this from memory.

    You can make a jumper wire say 5' long withe two alligator clips?

    Quest 1. There is a line of relays at the bottom of the cabinet board adjacent to the transformer that work in series to fire the grand slam relay and flash a light. The grand slam reel is powered by the grand slam relay the other two relays action the flashing light with a stepper. It is discussed a bit in the troubleshooting section #10 of this thread. Set up the grand slam and watch the relays to see if they all move in series. The one that doesn't is the culprit. If they all move then a switch is not closing properly. You should be able to use the jumper to power the relay using the schematic and zero in on the switch or switches that are not working.

    Quest 2. Regarding the color of the bats there was tan, brown and recently black. I cut the little arm off the back and use them. There all you can buy so invest in three of them and you will be fine. Remember to buy more than one as they sell out for months (Marco) so don't think the supplier will always have them available.

    Quest 3. Regarding the incline it should not be the issue. If the bottom of the cabinet is level it is fine. Two problems with the power of the hit. Main issue is the pitch and is it fast enough. Second is the bat strength. It has a variable podimeter inside the front door that can be adjusted. Tell us which it is and we can move on from there.

    Quest 4. It's a switch on the out stepper. Or bulbs.

    Steve J

    #210 2 years ago

    Thanks for the tips Steve. I read the troubleshooting thread, and it seems straightforward.

    Took a step backwards......
    When it went to troubleshoot the Grand Slam issue, my machine won't start up. It's doing exactly the same thing as before, when things magically started working. Ugh! The score reels only reset when I hold the start button in, and then the light bulbs turn off. The main motor runs for the same duration as pressing of the start button, then stops upon one revolution.

    And I thought I was so close!!!

    Back to troubleshooting. I have not touched a thing, only lifted the playfield.

    #211 2 years ago

    Sounds like the jones plugs.

    6 months later
    #212 1 year ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Running Man Unit

    This horizontal running man was first introduced in 1951 on the Super World Series #47. This arrangement has not changed much thru 1973.

    Unrestored Running men Assemblies (Men and background removed)

    The unit has a wooden playfield representation with a cardboard grandstand background. Below the playfield is an electro mechanical assembly with a running man motor that drives the runners onto the field that run the bases mimicking how the game is scored during the game. It’s real cool how it all works. When a base or a multiple of are scored the target switch closes a relay in the running man assembly and this actuates the motor to run. How many bases the men will run is actuated by individual base relays in tandem with a mechanical arm is released by a coil.

    A man is then rotated 90° onto the playfield driven metal post and runs the base or bases. On completion of a run scored the man then is mechanically rotated back to the original position ready to run again.

    There are four men on arms to indicate all the running men. It’s quite simple, robust and realistic.
    Disassembly Over view
    To disassemble the unit first remove the cardboard background and the player caricatures and carefully store before stripping the metal hardware for tumbling. I was able recently to get two full set of backgrounds from a pinhead off eBay here is the link. ebay.com link » New Williams Pitch Bat Pinball Play Field Background Panels 1956 67
    Name is Roundnose 58. Similar quality, less cost, all three parts and the correct dimensions.
    New and original Background sets

    Background drilled and riveted to installation brackets using 1/8” X 7/32” rivets.

    With the men and background removed we can invert the assembly to get at the mechanics of this interesting unit. See Picture below.
    Running Man Electro Mechanics

    The motor drives a double shaft. On one end the playfield pivots as the shaft rotates the running men on a ball bearing placed in the end of the shaft. The other end of the shaft rotates a triple cam and bases switches.
    The cams and the running men bracket are secured to the shaft by roller pins. The running man assembly mechanical parts have a motor connected to a U shaped metal frame with cams to drive the runners and a 4 legged running man metal bracket. To remove the roller pins you must drive the spring roller pins out of the holes with a suitable punch, the parts can then be removed. The fastening is the opposite.
    Motor Arrangement

    This was a simple to execute procedure except for one. I broke my removing tool when one just refused to budge. I could not see why and after purchasing another punch I was still unable to drive the pin out. Although I could not see any evidence I surmise that the hole may have been peened over the pin ever so slightly and this was trapping the pin. Usually we drive from one end so it comes out the way it goes in. I used a round ended dremel tool and ground the face of the hole and pin on both sides to remove any accidental peening. Success! The last pin was successfully removed and I could separate the motor from the running man bracket.
    Also not sure why or exactly when Williams started putting 27 Volt coils in lieu of 24 Volt coils. It was in the late 60’s for sure and it’s my opinion his was because of failing motors used in a transformer high tap voltage setting that was causing game issues for operators. My calipers measurements indicate the coil wire was increased from 20 to 22 AWG. No issue to use a 27 volt more in a 24 volt circuit. So a 27 Volt NOS motor I found with the identical spec to the 24 Volt motor will be used in the games. Same rotation speed just slightly different motor coil.
    All the metal parts removed were put in the tumbler and the wood playfield were set aside for sanding and repainting.
    The installation is the reverse of the dismantling. One point to be aware of the playfield center is quite vulnerable to breaking when dismantled due to the 300° running man track. When the parts are all reconnected there is a screw that needs to be tightened so the playfield center is level with the rest of the playfield.

    This screw touches the top of the motor shaft rounded rotating end and effectively supports and locks the playfield to the metal frame. If you over tighten the screw the center wood raises too high if you under tighten it is too low. Need to get it just right. Simple and very effective.
    Large Tumbler makes short work of two running men metal parts

    48 hours in the tumbler with walnut shells and some ‘Scratch Out’ will have them shining up like nearly new. Don’t know why I am showing a picture of a tumbler.

    if you can get a track of (roundnose 58) let me know i would like some

    2 months later
    #213 1 year ago

    All,

    I have had the pitching spring for this game remade. its as good or better than the original. See my thread linked for availability. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-pitch-unit-springs-now-available#post-4262127

    Steve J.

    #214 1 year ago

    Hi Steve, I'm new to this site and i'm in the process of restoring a 1963 Williams "Big Inning". I'm looking for the coin door decal that you made. Is it possible to buy one from you or would you know where I could find one like yours?. Your restoration on these two games were amazing, great job!

    Thanks-
    Kevin

    #215 1 year ago

    Kevin,
    Send me your address I will post one to you. The door is straight forward to clean up. Your door was chromed originally gut others from that time period were painted with a silver Hammer finish. That is what I used.

    Steve

    1 month later
    #216 1 year ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Sounds like the jones plugs.

    TIme to get back to the machine. Glad to see your still active on here Steve. Just getting back on this thread has made me wonder why I have been gone so long!

    Regarding your tip with my intermittent with my machine not starting up fully, would you recommend I clean all the contacts on the jones plugs, or inspect/reflow the solder joints?

    #217 1 year ago
    Quoted from kevstang67:

    TIme to get back to the machine. Glad to see your still active on here Steve. Just getting back on this thread has made me wonder why I have been gone so long!
    Regarding your tip with my intermittent with my machine not starting up fully, would you recommend I clean all the contacts on the jones plugs, or inspect/reflow the solder joints?

    Kevin,
    Better refresh me what is happening, and we can take it from there.

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    There are 217 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.

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