(Topic ID: 147356)

Williams 1963 Major League Restoration - Complete


By SteveinTexas

3 years ago



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    #1 3 years ago

    Williams Major League Flyer

    I have started my next restore project which is a pair of 63 Major League baseball games. I think this game is so cool.

    My plan is to totally restore these games and give these games to my son and daughter as they have now left the nest, they enjoy playing the games especially my 62 World Series bat game. They won’t be able to fix them so they will need to call me and my bat girl (mom) in from time to time to visit ha! My son is now at college in Austin so that game will probably get some abuse and need more regular maintenance.

    I have been corresponding with others about this game. Some are restoring also and going through some of the same issues to make or find parts and other challenges. Spencer (nighthawk128) who has made his own back glass and chromed a bunch of parts has repainted his cabinet and it looks the bomb. I am making another front moulding and associated bat lever hardware for one of his neighbors and they will be discussed how here. Hey Spencer show us your game and back glass.

    So if this is one of your possible upcoming project restores please join in the conversation, the more ideas the better. All decals I make can be made available along with any fabrication drawings of front mouldings, bats and bat assemblies. Also stencil masters etc.

    Game Overview

    Back in the day if you were a 62 World Series playing wiz you may have been momentarily disappointed when the Major League game was rolled out, the cabinet was nice. However, the playfield and gameplay had been simplified and seemed to be dumbed down. The playfield scoring and trap holes were gone and now you only see one ball ramp on the playfield not the three lite red plastic ramps. The back glass seems to have less happening as well. On second review this game is no chump just a little different, there is now a big home run target and articulated targets to aim for like gun games.

    This target assembly was a fun change and probably an expensive addition for Williams to the games. The playfield simplification was a cost offset for sure, coupled with simplified ball return metal ducting under the playfield and removal of the red lite ramps. The game play focus had changed in favor of home runs and extended innings, dropping the grand slam letter lighting bonus that spanned through multiple plays.

    From my review the 63 Major League motorized target assembly lasted only for about 2 years and 4 games thru 64 and then it was revamped to a simpler less expensive switch actuated arrangement in 65 on the Double Play and onwards thru 73. Another major change was it now operated on 24 volts not 50 volts. It seems like a new engineering team was assigned to redesign the Major League on review of the schematics, as it was quite different under the hood from years before.

    Obtaining Parts for Bat Games

    So what is usually broken or missing? Until most recently this game has suffered from ‘unobtainium’ parts syndrome namely the back glass and home run plastic. However, Bgresto are making the back glass and I am a resource for a passable homerun plastic. I think the value of this game is a tad low currently due to the absence of these crucial parts, time will tell if its value will come in line with other games of this period now these parts are available as it is a fun game.

    I had only one back glass and that is badly faded so two back glasses are needed. This had been put in the works a few months prior and the back glasses are currently on order with Bgresto and will be received in plenty of time. When Steve finishes the artwork tweaks a few of us will be getting our new back glasses and I will post pic’s of them here to see.
    Unobtanium_Parts_No_More_2.jpgParts with exception of the background from Pinball Rescue in Australia were until recently unobtanium.

    The cardboard running man background is usually trashed. Only one of mine was in good shape but we can get remakes from ’Pinball Rescue’ down under http://www.pinballrescue.net/Backbox_Scenery.html I had ordered ahead two last year when working on my last bat game. Be warned although the repro is of excellent quality it’s expensive and does not include the needed background sides. I scanned the side parts of the new background and printed on picture quality paper last time and will do again this time too. Also they are 1 /2” short in height but they will do. So nothing else too expensive seemed to stand out.

    Other parts that I have issues with are the front moulding, bat levers and bat units. All need some parts, or decals to spruce them up.
    Target_Decal.jpgTarget Decals

    Frint_Moulding.jpgScanned and edited Decal

    Bat_Lever_Assemblies.jpgBat Lever Assemblies

    This is probably a good opportunity to mention other needed bat game parts that were once unavailable but now are thanks to people in the hobby here on Pinside. The bat lever and some associated accessories has been remade by Scott Webb (G43crazy). He also makes the playfield side rubber, pitch buttons and some rare bumper rubber stops for the lever located under the moulding. Here are some of his links;

    Bat_Lever_.jpghttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-bat-parts-for-williams-baseball-machines#post-2736529
    D_Rubber.jpghttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/baseball-pitch-and-bat-d-shaped-playfield-rubber#post-2730462

    buttons.jpghttps://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-anodized-start-and-pitch-buttons-for-williams#post-2235192

    Here are the best pictures I could find from the IPDB site, and on the web. Not sexy pictures and it should have chrome chromed legs I think.

    Best Pic’s I could find …ugh!63_Major_League_Bat_Game.jpg ML_Pic_2.jpg

    #2 3 years ago

    DSC04217.jpgMy two 63 ML games

    After my recent 62 World Series bat game restore project it should be straightforward as what could go wrong. It’s a fun game to play and visitors enjoy when I had one up and running. My lesson hopefully learned for this project is to not to listen to the voice in my head that says “you don’t need pictures, you will remember where the stuff all goes”.

    How did I get two games? I bought one of eBay and picked it up in Tampa, Florida. Its 1,000 miles one way back to home, I must be nuts. As I mentioned I restored a basket case 62 World Series Bat game last year and thought this game being only being a year younger would help as a reference during the rebuild. However the games are nothing like each other under the hood and it was in very poor condition, my stupid again.

    The second game I got from Dennis Dodel. He already has a very good 63 Major League so I guess this was one of his projects. Dennis had helped me with my World Series game restore and has become a friend. He had somewhat given up getting a back glass for this game over the years and offered it to me at a good price. Dennis’s game is in good condition except for the lack of a back glass, a back door and a homerun plastic. I made a cross country trip last fall to pick up multiple games the last from Dennis. The eBay found game is a basket case and without drastic restore measures it was destined to be a parts machine.

    Pre Restoration Review

    I moved my games from storage to the garage for restoration. First impression was gosh they stink after being sealed up all summer, not at all pleasant like people romanced about EM games in a recent topic.
    Cabinets.jpgThe games post rescue from storage

    One games cabinet had been repainted and apparently with little concern for correctness. It had considerable de-lamination issues on the bottom edges and front panel and needs plenty of wood repair. The paint would not come off without the original paint when tested so it needed a paint removal and redo. The picture above shows the painted game in the background after I had spent a lot of time trying to uncover the original paint to make stencils under the paint over. The game in the foreground is the one from Dennis which I received later and I was able to make the stencils from.

    I procrastinate making the working stencils and this slows down my restores. As well as the base color and the strange splatter there are three other colors on the game sides and one on the front panel. So three per side and one for the front is 13 stencils to make per game, groan…. The painting is fun though.
    Stencil_Masters.jpgCabinet Stencil Masters

    Dennis’s game was in much better condition but as I was going to have to strip and paint one game anyway I decided to do both. If games have been stored in non-heated or cooled locations for years the paint is usually chalking and peeling and frankly I don’t store games any differently either.

    This time I plan to do the painting of the game’s first not last. This I figure will get the smell to dissipate quicker and more importantly if the cabinets are ready I can put the assemblies back in the game as I clean and complete their restore minimizing the needed work space. But this means I need to make the stencils earlier that later.

    These bat games are easy to work on as they were made with an assembly line mentality as discrete assemblies and then placed in the cabinet housing and hooked up. Behind the plastic home run target there is the target assembly. Most of the guts in the lower cabinet are on a relay board and the remainder mounts with the exception of some bells to the underside of the playfield along with the door and front moulding sub-assemblies. The upper cabinet houses two separate assemblies, the running man and the light/ score reel unit. Sub-assemblies are retained by just a couple of screws and once removed one person can pull out of the game safely for working on a bench.
    DSC04227.jpgLower cabinet; playfield and relay boards

    DSC03996.jpgLower cabinet; target assemblies

    DSC04328.jpgUpper cabinet; running man and light, score reel assemblies

    I started stripping the cabinets to get a better look at the games and in a couple of hours the assemblies, front moldings, hardware and the doors etc were out. Working on two machines means that my work space is now a premium and soon I had piles of dirty stuff loosely sorted, so space management was an issue already.

    Game Motors Review; the game has four motors; Control, pitching, target driver and the running man. I had motor issues on both my last two restores a 62 World Series bat game and a Nags. These bat games have a combined 8 motors so issues are possible. I have gathered spare bench transformers for testing motors out of a game. Whether they are working is important but you need to review the motors to see if they are the correct one for the game and if not, are they a viable substitute. I made a spreadsheet to help me find suitable substitute motors and parts and posted to Pinside as a baseball technical support topic https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-baseball-game-motor-coils-and-bat-assembly-information#post-2788508

    Using this information I was able to review the motorized units and assemblies.

    Control motor; is rarely an issue, other than being dirty and needing a lube and these are fine.
    14A-7746_Score_Mtor.jpgControl Motor under the control cams assembly

    Target Unit motors; on review I found one that is not as original. This is on the game I had played the heck out of for a while it has a 10 RPM geared motor not a 14 RPM geared motor. It has a cam on each end of the shaft a larger motor coil. The motor double shaft is not uncommon an arrangement and any motor with RPM’s That are close like this one should be suitable if you need a substitute. I will rebuild the target assembly later in the topic.

    Target_Motor.jpgCorrect Target Motor and has Cams on each end of the shaft.

    Running man Unit motor; it was toast on my last game and was the reason the game was taken out of service. It takes some work to strip this motor out of the game and has a unique gear shaft with a ball bearing in one end to rotate the running men mechanism and the other to drive cams. This makes it a bad candidate for exchanging out with a non-running man motor. With this in mind I have picked up spares on eBay over the past year for both 24 and 50 Volt operating games so I am not overly concerned to strip them out further to review until it’s time to work on them.
    E-5420_Running_Man.jpgRunning_Man_Motor.jpg
    Running Man motor has cams one end of the shaft and a special ball bearing on the other

    Pitching Unit; it’s common to find substitute motors on your game. They are the work horse motor in the game and on review neither of mine are original. However, I find this again is not an issue as long as the RPM’s are close. On this game the motor should have a heavy duty motor coil, be 24 Volts with 17 RPM gears. As these are now home games the standard motor coil should work fine for a long time if substituted.

    One pitching motor I had repaired last year by Steve Young (PBR) personally (scribed his initials on the casing). He replaced a 50 volt motor coil with a 24 volt coil and a new clutch gear. The motor coil exchanged was a standard frame and he told me it may not work for this application. It does work but his concern is valid if the game is played continuously as the coil could burn out or as a minimum stall. The second game has currently a different motor that states has 28 RPM gearing. I was able recently to find the correct NOS pitching motor for the game. I looked most days for motors on eBay over the past 9 months, for hard to find parts. Do not knock eBay for finding parts.

    On the Major League the pitching assembly is an E-5813, it’s the tension spring that matters for the pitching speed. The spring fires the ball at one speed fast. The pitching assembly slow the pitches with a ‘brake pad’ assembly that rubs against a metal wheel during the pitch. This effectively slowing down the pitch. A relay is ‘randomly’ energized to lift the brake off occasionally generating the fast ball.

    Pitching_Unit.jpg
    Pitching_Motor.jpgPitching Unit showing the closed gearbox motor.

    Batting Units and Assemblies Review

    Typical_110_V_Batting_Unit.pngTypical 110V Bat Unit

    The Batting Unit; may not be original, only one of mine is. Again this is not too important as the Williams unit has not changed much from the early 50’s through to the Slugfest in the 90’s. They all work in a similar fashion and parts for a Slugfest game being available still from Marco Specialties they can be interchanged with no additional rework. A link to a ‘how to’ technical support topic is attached if you need to fix up your bat assembly. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-1883604

    Hacks; one game had a few other hacks including an additional 50 volt transformer fitted solely to drive an incorrect voltage pitching motor (this is now my bench 50 Volt tester). Another hack in this game was an isolation switch cut into the front of the cabinet. I don’t know why people do these things.
    Hack_switch_repair.jpgHack Switch repair

    Relays and Solenoids; the bottom board had no obvious relays or solenoids that needed replacing, so that is good. The score reels however had darkened windings and the sleeve was wedged in so some overheating had occurred. I will change these out.

    I need to review the woodwork next.

    #3 3 years ago

    Good thread!

    #4 3 years ago

    Woodwork Review

    Front Moulding; Generally this wooden front rail really shows its age. It needs to be replaced on most games but the Formica top replacement stops people attempting this. Replacing it may be possible however using a decal and covering in a hard clear coat. To this end I have scanned the moulding surface and have brought it into Illustrator and Photoshop for cleaning up the image I am not that proficient with these software programs but am quite stubborn so was able to make a decal that is way better that what I have now. I plan to fix up the original front moldings and use the decal to finish this work. More on this repair topic later.
    Frint_Moulding_(resized).JPGScanned and edited decal

    New_and_old_Front_Mouldings_(resized).JPGNew blank and existing Front Mouldings

    Let’s start Restoring

    The lower cabinets were stripped of their old paint. I usually sand the paint off but the repainted cabinet was taking a lot of work so I tried some stripper to speed this one up. This makes things messy but it did the trick. The paint was covering a lot of dings and scraps and getting paint out of crevices is not productive as we will only fill again with bondo prior repainting. I burned out the black and decker sander so had to replace. I found one at Harbor Freight and somewhat regret buying it. It does not have the same power but as we know the price was right.
    Sanding_the_paint_off_(resized).JPGStarting the paint removal on the better cabinet

    The top cabinet had ply separation plus damage to the wood at the locks were people had forced the game open. You notice the side art when playing so spend some time repairing the wood prior painting it pays off.

    Top_cabinet_Prior_Painting_(resized).JPGPaint mostly removed using 60 grit paper.

    Damage to the bottom of the cabinet was evident on one game the bottom was almost falling out. It also had delamination issues and a new front panel was considered. You may get a little minor surface wood lifting where the wood may be already delaminating. But as I am going to be adding bondo to surface imperfections and re-sanding before resealing so not an issue for me. I first cleaned up the existing edge removing the damaged existing ply edge for replacement. I ripped some new edging from a sheet of 3 plywood and glue and nailed them into position as the picture. You can paint or leave bare I elect to paint.
    Cabinet_Bottom_repair_(resized).JPGGluing and pinning the cabinet bottom edge

    Before I get down to the repairs I noticed this game still smelled, probably of mold, beer and tar. I don’t always do this but when I do I clean the cabinets with bleach and water. It takes a few days to dry the wood and I have found little harm from this wash.
    DSC04257_(resized).JPGCabinets after their bleach wash and rinse.

    The overall condition of the upper cabinets was no better than the lower cabinets. The wood is 1/2” thick on the upper cabinet not 3/4” thick as the lower cabinet. The upper cabinet had many small splits in the grain not seen on the lower cabinet that needed filling with bondo along with rebuilding the wood edges. This is the time you need to use your patience as the preparation is the key to a good looking paint job. You see these splits in the grain over time as the wood dries out especially in the back door as is only 3/8" thick. Again I fill these splits with bondo before the sealer/primer stage, if you don’t you will probably see them again a few months from now in your newly painted cabinets and back doors due to temperature changes.

    There was only one back door but these are simple to make and I had blanks ready. The upper cabinets got the bleach and rinse down treatment.

    Being South Texas we can usually work outside all year round. However since middle October through Thanksgiving it has rained or got too cold to paint most weekends. Good news however, as I wait beer consumption remains unaffected.

    DSC04319_(resized).JPGUpper cabinet oak trim

    #5 3 years ago

    6 Days to Xmas; so finally the weather seems to be cooperating and I can put my ‘spray booth up’.
    DSC04352_(resized).JPGCrude Paint booth but seems to work.

    I use the PPG Shop line paint products. I used a white primer because of the light color basecoat. They girls recommended an epoxy JB-371. I got a quart and you mix with a compatible 50% hardener. It covered both games with not a drop left. I use a Pantone solids color swatch book to figure out the color match from the games and they borrow the book and mix the different acrylic urethane base paints perfectly by eye. Make sure if you go this way you don’t get too little paint as once I believe they mixed an extra batch with their other eye. The colors are mixed 100% with a urethane reducer so get a gallon of that too.

    Auto_Spray_Paint_(resized).JPGPaint for two games less the primer and hardener as used and binned.

    For both games I got the following paint;
    • 1 quart of JB-371 epoxy primer.
    • 1 pint of hardener JB-3770
    • 2 quarts Base Paint off white mix JB-B1
    • 1 quart of an orange mix JB1
    • 1 pint of an tan mix JB-B1
    • 1 pint of an black JB-B1
    • 1 gallon of Urethane Reducer

    Cost was $278 with tax. That’s a little north of $150 per game (4 colors not 3) if you include your clear and other sundries like rags, mixing cups, and gloves etc.

    Still 6 days to Xmas; note you will need to apply a gloss clear coat as these are a matt finish paint. With my set up I was able to apply the primer and base in one day. The following paint colors as we are using stencils I recommend you wait a day between different overlapping colors so they don’t lift when removing the stencils. Take your time is the message.

    Epoxy_primer_coat_(resized).JPGEpoxy Primer first coat drying in the sun.
    DSC04355_(resized).JPGBase Coat applied 2 coats Flat spray if possible
    Cabinet_base_coat._(resized).JPGCabinet base coat 2 thin coats applied- watch for runs.

    5 days to Xmas; the family is getting into the holiday mood, I will too when this painting is done. No one offers to help with the stencils. Williams originally applied to the base color the most difficult to replicate hairy splatter. Not webbing or dots. On this game it is a red/orange color hairy finish and I am in trouble. I have tried enamel, acrylic, in a HVLP gun and with splatter brushes and others. I have thickened with glue but it’s for me impossible. So no choice left I need to cheat. Where is the wife? Bet she can do it.

    Well she agreed to stop Xmas baking for a while and help her little man. She made a better attempt than me so this step is done. Now on to making 26 + stencils and finish painting the cabinets.

    4 days to Xmas. I have procrastinated again and the stencils are not made. First stencil color after the primer, base color coat and the orange splatter is the tan. This was 10 stencils to draw and cut out worked all day and only got the first ten made and cut out.

    I use some tacky repositioning spray and again with my wife’s assistance to apply them I was ready to paint. Painting takes no more than 15 seconds total to apply 3 light coats over 15 minutes and done. 10 minutes later peel off the stencil and on to the next side.

    3 days to Xmas, stencils prepared and cut out. Get wife to help me apply and then time to paint.
    second_color_applied_(resized).JPGThe tan color came out well.

    second_color_to_lower_cabinet_applied_(resized).JPGCorner edges lined up surprise surprise….

    We have to leave further painting until the next day as the stencils WILL rip up the previous day’s coat. Guess how I know. Also I need to make the next day’s bloody stencils.

    2 days to Xmas; 8 stencils drawn and cut out for the orange color and I was ready to apply.
    3rd_Color_applied_(resized).JPGThey came out well. A bugger to apply but the wife keeps stepping up and helping.
    Some_used_stencils_(resized).JPGI am starting to make a pile of one use stencils.

    Its Xmas eve. Made more stencils last night, gosh I really hate making stencils did I say that before.
    final_paint_pre_clear_(resized).JPGBlack color mixed, stencils made, cut out and applied. Let’s spray!
    Final_paint_color_upper_cabinet_(resized).JPGTop boxes came out well. I am very pleased with the outcome and only a few touchups to fix. Some paint creep to fix and a few alignment errors to fix. This will take only a few hours but not today or tomorrow and then we can clear everything and they will be complete. Its 4:30 PM Xmas eve. Time to get my presents for the wife and kids. 20 years married still don’t know her ring size so have to be earrings again.

    Merry Christmas everyone.
    Steve Johnston in Sugar Land, Texas

    #6 3 years ago

    Wow! Nice work!

    #7 3 years ago

    Great Job and a nice Christmas present to yourself Steve, but now you'll have to gift wrap it today, then open it.

    Merry Christmas!

    Ken

    #8 3 years ago

    Ken,
    Believe me getting these to this stage by Xmas day is a nice present.

    Doing two games at once is actually more of a challenge and less fun than I thought. Everytime you complete something you see the other game part waiting to be started. However, the end result will be worth it.

    Cad-kid,
    Thanks for the complement. These baseball games are fun and I like to play them as well as my pins. I had a Xmas party and my World Series game was hogged all evening with everyone trying to get the most runs. Interesting footnote one of my lady friends towards the end of the evening asked how to play the game and just beat all the guys scoring 42 runs.

    Merry Xmas

    #9 3 years ago

    Nice restore. I like your paint booth. mine looked like that too...at first, then grew to a building...such fun, painting

    #10 3 years ago

    Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

    Nice restore. I like your paint booth. mine looked like that too...at first, then grew to a building...such fun, painting

    I auto cleared the cabs yesterday. The weather south of the I-10 was quite windy but no where as serious as in your area. It still blew my spray booth over my 6 foot fence. I weighed the legs as best as I could and finished. The booth is for the dump as two legs are now bent and broke.

    I like the painting and clearing too and have it down pat now and this takes only minutes. The prep takes days and days.

    #11 3 years ago

    Front Moulding Refurbishment

    As discussed earlier my front Mouldings were pretty bashed up.
    New_and_old_Front_Mouldings_(resized).JPGTwo existing mouldings and a blank I made.

    The front moulding top and playfield is Formica and they have weathered well. But you cannot fix Formica it needs to be replaced or covered. No replacement exists so we need to cover. Spencer namely ‘Nighthawk’ made a decal but he has had not had the time to perfect it, so I have made some from one of my tops.

    Moulding_repaired_and_ready_for_a_decal_(resized).JPGA repaired moulding ready to receive its new decal.

    The Mouldings after 52 years are in rough shape as you can see below. The sides are usually broken off as above and the Formica top is chipped and badly scratched. The use of a Formica top was a really smart idea in the day as it was able to take a lot of abuse and is the reason so many still exist on the games today.
    Moulding_Lever_Hole_needing_repair_(resized).JPGThe Formica top has scratches chips and worn lever holes.
    Moulding_Needing_repair_(resized).JPGTypical Damage to the wood sides

    Fixing the wood needs new wood strips and plenty of bondo to fill the gaps. I was able to use my router with the table to fashion a new wing for one game. I made the piece to fit into the square grove in the existing wood. It had been broken off and the grove had to be cleaned out with a chisel to receive the new piece. This approach is well worth the effort as only glue was needed to secure the new piece in place.
    Moulding_repair_3_(resized).JPGNew piece after fashioning with a router glued and clamped in place
    Moulding_Repair_2_(resized).JPGThe clamps will keep it all tightly pressed together over night.
    Moulding_Repair_4_(resized).JPGA bit of bondo and some work with a sander and hey its looks OK.

    The wear to the lever slot is usually caused by the rubber bumper being broken and this then allows the lever to move against the wood. We need to rebuild this area. As long as the bumpers on the lever assembly is good then the wear cannot happen again.
    Moulding_lever_hole_after_repair_(resized).jpgBondo filled and smoothed off.

    One of my mouldings needed a lot of filler to smooth it all out. Bondo is perfect for this and was shaped with a palm sander with 60 and 120 grit paper then smoothed with 220 and 400 grit paper prior priming. I was now ready to paint. I covered the top with masking tape and sprayed the underside and sides orange.

    Underside_gets_a_new_coat_(resized).JPGI also auto clear coated the wood and the top ready to receive the decal. I have read in a Vid thread that decals can shrink over time. As wood and clear act differently during temperature changes, by encapsulating in the clear I hope the decal moves with the clear not the wood.

    Almost done, time to apply the decal. My wife helped me apply the decal straight and this part was therefore very easy.
    NEW_AND_OLD_FRONT_MOULDING_(resized).pngA comparison of a decal applied moulding top and an existing moulding before applying the decal.

    Finally a liberal top coat of auto clear is applied and the Mouldings are complete. This top coat is essential as the decal needs protecting. The clear will never be a good as Formica but it will harden and can be cleaned and scratches removed just the same as a cleared playfield.

    Cleared_Moulding_(resized).JPGOnce the clear has hardened hopefully the games will last another 25 years. I have the PDF available for the moulding fix just ask.

    #12 3 years ago

    Really enjoying your thread Steve. Thanks for sharing!

    #13 3 years ago

    very nice! thanks for sharing

    #14 3 years ago

    Steve ...this part of the repair is going to help many people . It is almost impossible to find a nice control panel on one of these older machines . No matter how nice the rest of the game is ....this is the first thing your eye hits when you see the machine . So many have the formica scratched or chipped ..or have had a big button installed where the bat handle was removed . I now see a way to repair something that otherwise was going to have an obvious touch up . Great job .

    #15 3 years ago

    Scott, so right about these old mouldings I have three 'fixed' mouldings on my World Series game and the two being restored. One of the better ideas I was part off. I made the decal bigger than the moulding and after sticking down I trim with a exacto and we are done.

    Not so convinced on the clear coat in the long term. It looks fabulous and will be a great protector but how well it adheres to the decal over the years if we drop things on it we will have to see.

    Post a picture in a few minutes.

    #16 3 years ago

    DSC04401_(resized).JPG
    Here is the World Series with its newly decaled front moulding. I made this the other year as I did not have one. Complete now finally with the decal and clear.

    DSC04402_(resized).JPG
    The Major leagues games with their newly restored mouldings. This is a nice looking game.

    #17 3 years ago

    Its time now to fix the 110V batting Unit Assemblies
    DSC04422_(resized).JPG Refurbished ready for another 25 years crunching the ball.

    I am refurbishing as needed three batting units. One is for a gentleman that has a non-Williams unit on his recently acquired game. As the review earlier in the thread stated I have had two units re-welded due to binding of the linkage. We may find on our games the batting unit may not be the original. The assembly in the picture above on the right is an original unit for this game a C-5161-4. The others are newer versions but insignificantly different.

    In the earlier review some mechanical wear seemed odd. Also the frame bat arm female couplings were both loose and could rotate. I had these welded. This issue would not stop the unit functioning but pointed to the mechanical linkage binding in the past and ‘breaking’ the housing female coupling pressed joint. Some re welding was evident also in the existing parts so it behooves us to ensure these parts moved as originally designed prior putting back in the game.
    Batter_Unit_Rewelded_(resized).JPGWelded Female Coupling

    One batting unit shown in the middle in the picture above in particular has a lot of wear showing the linkage had binding issues and was played for years without fixing. We need to lube the metal to metal rub points prior putting back in the game.
    Worn_Linkage_Parts_(resized).JPG
    Linkage wear on the assembly & pins

    The plunger retaining pin shown in the picture above is still usable as long as we fix the issue that caused the wear. This wear was caused by an original nut being replaced with a standard lock nut that is too long. The Keps nut is a 1/4" X 28 thread and the correct replacement is available in some box stores. I found this one at Home Depot. It can also be replaced easily with a normal nut with a lock washer. I simply ground the one on the game down for now so it was clear off the wear area and will replace later.

    Nut_wear_(resized).JPGThe nut is now clear of the wear area after grinding back.

    Bat_Driver_Arm_Assembly_(resized).JPG The more modern Driver Arm is a two piece with the bat not shown.

    This C-5161-2/3/4 three part bat shaft version (bat part not shown)was fitted to the games from 1960 thru 1964. On review it is a better version than the more modern 2 part piece (A-6338) because of the collar on the shaft that stops the shaft dropping down and inhibits the linkage from binding as newer game assemblies do. If you have this version intact then you should see zero wear the same as mine. However, the wear should not stop you being able to fix your unit to operate 100%. As stated, we can always update to newer parts still made for the Slugfest game. They all work in a similar fashion with interchangeable parts available still from Marco Specialties. The link to a ‘how to’ technical support topic is attached. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat#post-1883604

    As stated above the original version with the three part bat assembly (2A-2799) has to be installed in pieces as it has a collar that cannot pass through the assembly hole. How to assemble the C-5161-2/3/4 back together in steps is shown below.
    DSC04413_(resized).JPG Step 1; Shaft with the collar ready for fitting after some lube is added.
    Arm_thru_shaft_(resized).JPG Step 2; shafted fitted into assembly. See the shaft key location.
    Key_fitted_to_shaft_(resized).JPG Step 3; Key fitted ready to receive the linkage arm.
    3_part_Arm_assembly_fitted_(resized).JPG Step 4; Linkage fitted over the shaft key and the 1/16 “x 1” cotter split pin added to lock together.
    Coil_plunger_and_linkage_(resized).JPG Step 5; add the cross arm (A-4690) and then install the coil plunger (2A-2587) after connecting the coil plunger to the linkage (A-5957) with the locating pin (2A-2559) and secure with a 1/16” X 5/8” cotter pin.
    Reassembled_Batting_Unit_(resized).JPG Step 6; add the linkage roller (2A-2597) across the coil plunger linkage arm with a #8 X32 nylon lock nut and then all washers, and clips

    Important Note; the bat uses a #10 X 32 nylon lock nut along with the rubber return post, these you will find in a box store along with the #8 X 32 nuts.

    The coil fits on a sub-assembly frame with its coil sleeve screw into place. The unit is then screwed to the assembly frame. The screws are #8 X 32. A lock washer should be used, available in a box store. Some people want a new return spring and no one seems to stock. This spring is quite light and is about 2” long without tension. I believe you can find in Ace hardware as close is good enough.

    I will not go through the other batter newer units as they are covered in the linked thread. I hope this is all helpful, as the screw parts maybe unavailable from a box store so some forward planning is needed before tackling this refurbishment. With the parts it is a half day Saturday afternoon job and very rewarding when you put back in the game and the bat really sings.

    Next part will be the Target Assembly.

    #18 3 years ago

    Target Assembly.
    What is it? A bunch of relays, switches, cams, springs, target hopper, motor, wiring harness, bulbs, articulated targets and metal linkages mounted on a piece of pressed wood. Cool….

    1_(resized).JPGUnderside View of unrestored Targets

    2_(resized).JPGTop View of Unrestored Target Hopper and Mechanical Parts

    I started taking pictures as I have not stripped a target assembly down before. Having two assemblies to restore I decided to do one first and rebuild keeping the second as a reference just in case. I am learning that’s for sure. Metal placed in the tumbler, plastics, wiring harness and target parts go to the ultrasonic.

    It’s interesting how colors change over the years. Take the target hopper it looks red. But it was actually orange back in the day. I found out when removing the paint after leaving in the hot ultrasonic for a time. The paint came off in a flexible goo. The underside color was orange very different to the current red, go figure. I have resprayed one of the hoppers so you can compare.

    3_(resized).JPGThe targets take a bashing over their lifetime so whilst cleaning I drilled out the 1/8” X 7/32” long rivets (guess ¼” long rivets would work too) and scanned the target faces to make new art using Illustrator for new decals. The decal art is available for free just PM me. I have some spare decals made so ask about a set if you want to go that way.

    4_(resized).JPGAfter cleaning all the hardware in the tumbler we can now start the re-assembly. First we sanded down the assembly before fixed screw-holes and filled edges followed by a nice new white coat of paint.
    5_(resized).JPG
    Step 1; the target was scanned and the bracket sent to the tumbler for a couple of days. Start the reassembly by adding the new decals to the old target faces. I made them a 1/16” larger and trimmed them with a new exacto blade. Came out well. Then put the target back on the spring articulated mounting bracket. I made the background an off white to better match the game.

    6_(resized).JPGWe had drilled out the rivets to separate the target from the bracket. To reassemble we press the new rivet through the existing hole and take to the rivet press.

    7_(resized).JPGI used my rivet press and 1/8” bits. Takes longer to set up the riveter than pressing the rivets.

    8_(resized).JPGA few minutes later all done.
    9_(resized).JPGFinally we need to protect the decal a bit so I sprayed with some 1K auto clear as I was too lazy to set up the HVLP spray gear. It will really help keep the targets in good shape for a while.

    Step 2; we fit the targets to the wooden frame.
    Step_2_(resized).JPGThe seven target brackets are installed next to the frame. You need to be careful as you are working on both sides of the frame. The new targets are underneath so I put down on the bench a moving blanket so not to scratch them. The two double targets have a bracket to hook to a reset bar that needs to be fitted at this time as shown in the picture above.

    Step 3; add the home run assembly brackets

    Step_3_(resized).JPGThe homerun ball return bracket that comes in two pieces gets fitted next. Here is the underside view. Additionally two brackets on a rod passed through the ball return bracket that connects to linkage to be added to following steps should be fitted now. The release bar can be fitted now on the underside. It hooks at the frame ends into the single targets as well as hooking onto the double targets.

    Step 4; add the reset bar
    Step_4a_(resized).JPG
    Step_4b_(resized).JPGThis complete the frame underside except for a switch that is part of the wiring harness. So place the frame on a soft blanket now as we will be working mostly on topside from here.

    Step 5; Start adding the relays and electrical harness

    Step_5_(resized).JPG
    Step 6; Turn over the frame and complete the underside work.
    Step_6a_(resized).JPG
    Step_6b_(resized).JPG
    Step 7;
    Step_7_(resized).JPG
    Step 8; add the linkage parts right side of ball through funnel
    Step_8_(resized).JPG
    Step 9; add the linkage parts left side of the ball through funnel
    Step_9_(resized).JPG
    Step 10; motor and cams install
    Step_10a_(resized).JPG
    Step_10b_(resized).JPG
    Step_10c_(resized).JPGThe motor when adding power on the bench was in the wrong way around. Switched and the shaft turned correctly.

    Step 11; Adding Ball through funnel and lighting deflectors
    Step_11a_(resized).JPG
    Step_11b_(resized).JPG
    View from underneath
    step_12_placed_in_game_(resized).JPGTarget Back in the game. Cool …Now where is the bloody other one to restore.

    Next is have a week or so off to do some maintenance on my collection and play some pinball and baseball.

    Then we will get back to lower cabinet fit out especially the doors.

    #19 3 years ago

    Wow! Excellent write up!

    #20 3 years ago

    Amazing stuff! Thanks for sharing all this.

    #21 3 years ago
    Quoted from reppie:

    Amazing stuff! Thanks for sharing all this.

    This particular game is worth the effort.

    We discuss from time to time Williams and other manufacturers having their innovative periods in the 50's and the games are much loved. However, it was a dynamic period at Williams in the early sixties too with different type games being rolled out with different mechanical ideas. The target assembly on this baseball game was invented and made for two games before being revamped the next year and then again the following year. These mechanical variations stand the test of time as long as not made of plastic construction.

    I hope others will see these help threads and decide to restore them as well as play them.

    #22 3 years ago

    Beautiful work. I was proud of my '64 Grand Slam restoration until I saw this! Here are a few pictures anyway.

    http://imgur.com/a/DPcxZ

    #23 3 years ago
    Quoted from johninc:

    Beautiful work. I was proud of my '64 Grand Slam restoration until I saw this! Here are a few pictures anyway.
    http://imgur.com/a/DPcxZ

    John, that is excellent work! You didn't have much paint to start of with did you! Not sure I have the patience or ability to repaint the target faces as well as that, they look superb.

    I would be happy to own this if I had any room.

    #24 3 years ago

    Great work love this thread !

    #25 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Not sure I have the patience or ability to repaint the target faces as well as that, they look superb.

    Thanks! But not repainted, I photoshopped (actually, GIMPed) new stickers. Love these baseball games.

    #26 3 years ago

    John,

    Good idea. How have they held up from the ball strikes?

    Guess that if they wear you will just add another sticker?

    #27 3 years ago

    They've held up fine. I covered them with mylar.

    #28 3 years ago

    Brilliant! Is this sponsored by Haynes in some way? Steve this is very well done thank you! I'm looking forward to your take on the pitch assembly if you manage to cover that, the step by step on the batting unit is invaluable! nothing like it out there.

    Target assemblies look great! It looks like the clear coat on the decals didn't have a negative reaction (shrinkage, wrinkling) as I was afraid would be the case. You've restored my confidence to carry on with the apron restore as opposed to duplication which stalled ages ago.

    #29 3 years ago

    Truly outstanding work!

    #30 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nighthawk128:

    You've restored my confidence to carry on with the apron restore as opposed to duplication which stalled ages ago.

    I have a restored front moulding available and as I find them will restore others. I will email you the PDFs so you can get one printed tomorrow if you want to do that. I would recommend that you stick a piece of Formica type product on the wood before the decal as it makes it so flat. Decide how you want to proceed. The targets decals are spot on. Send that too. Again decide if you want to make or use my extras.

    Post some pictures of your restore it is so good.

    Regarding the pitching unit yes I can do that after the doors I suppose. It is straight forward once you know the rebuild steps.

    2 weeks later
    #31 3 years ago

    I had to go back to the target Assembly after reviewing the schematic.
    Motor_Cams_and_Switches_(resized).JPG
    The motor when adding power on the bench was re installed backwards. On the schematic there is a target motor diagram showing the shaft direction and positions of the cam dwells in relation to each other and the switches. Beware it is incorrect. Cam 1’s rotation as drawn is opposite to as marked. The direction arrow in red is the correct rotation and yes as it is a double shaft single drive gearbox and if you install backwards it will run backwards. I have proved that in practice so you don’t need to!

    The marks made in blue show the cam dwell leading edge is approximately 180° apart. It does not need to be exact. On one of the games Cam 2 was wrongly positioned but it still ran OK before I stripped it down. I have now positioned the cam in the correct place.
    Schematic_Cam_1_and_2_Positions_(resized).JPG

    #32 3 years ago

    Game Doors Refurbishment

    The front doors were examined and one had been forcibly open and a spot weld broken. This is so annoying because before I can attempt to straighten it needs a new spot weld to pull it back in place. This game had chromed doors originally and must have looked very nice once new. I like to put the coin mech’s in the internal door hardware and three were there only one missing. I will watch ePay for one more. I stripped the parts from both doors and made a pile for its turn in the tumbler. The wiring was put in the ultrasonic and got a 10 minute soak and clean.

    Worse of the two doors
    Worse_Door_(resized).JPG
    I removed the paint and had the door re-welded. The welding probably made the door distortion a little worse but it was never going to be perfect again and the only path forward is to fill and paint.
    Repaired_Door_(resized).JPG
    A liberal amount of bondo and a good sanding soon got the results we needed. When finished there was not too much bondo left.
    Fixing_the_Door_(resized).JPG
    Door and frame was then primed followed by a coat of Hammer finish paint. I have made a decal to match the door and it looks pretty good on the hammer finish. After we clear coat finish the decal edges fade away.

    Finished Door
    Refinished_Door_with_new_decal_(resized).JPG
    The other door was intact without any dents and could be re-chromed.
    The_Good_Door_(resized).JPG
    I soaked in Evaporust overnight and it cleaned up very well. I was still unsure of the finish so I added the decal and clear-coated the door and put it on the game to see if I liked the look. As bling is not my thing I have not chromed any parts to date and have no relationship with anyone in place to do this type of work. However, this door was originally chromed so it was warranted.

    After a week next to the hammer finished door I broke down and pulled the door and frame off the game and hammer coated the same as the other game. I reasoned that my son and daughter would compare the games and I would hear eventually that I favored one over the other due to it so that is the reason for what it is worth. Looks good just waiting on 5/8” locks for this game to finish this part.

    Finished Door on the game.
    Door_on_the_game__(resized).JPG
    Next will be the Pitching Unit. More involved than you would think. As requested I will attempt to clarify how to replace the tension spring and subsequent adjustment.

    #33 3 years ago

    E-5613 Pitcher Unit

    Motor Driver Side View
    1_E-5613_Motor_Side_(resized).JPG
    Ball lift Side View
    2_Ball_Lift_Side_(resized).JPG
    The E-5613 Pitcher Unit was installed in Williams’s baseball type games starting in 1958 with the Short Stop and through the 1963 Major League game when it was replaced on the Grand Slam in 1964 with the D-6322 unit. It did not change in design through that time. A notable exception was on the Official Baseball game which had a unique E-5570 unit which worked with the pitcher figure on the playfield. The subsequent pitcher unit the D-6322 was modified through its life so ensure you are aware of the changes if you try to take parts from one for another.

    How it works

    The E-5613 assembly unit is a clever piece of engineering. It has a motor driven cam connected to a pitcher arm and tensioned with a spring. Stop dogs in the cam dwells lock the pitcher arm until the motor is powered rotating the cam and releasing the dogs. The unit is straight forward to understand. To assist explain how it operates I find it simpler to look at the unit from its two sides. The left motor driver side and the right ball lift side.

    Motor Driver Side

    See below the motor side with the motor removed.

    Motor Side
    3_Motor_Side_(resized).JPG
    Includes the control cam, tension spring, motor and switch assemblies. These switches control the pitch motor run and other pitch control functions in conjunction with switches on the control motor. The pitcher arm is tensioned with a spring, I recommend you fit a new spring while the pitching assembly is apart. The Pinball Resource stocks. 1-28-2016, Strike that PBR have an incorrect one in stock and it cannot be made to work.

    The pitcher arm is held by cam stop dogs until the motor rotates the cams releasing the spring tensioned pivot arm and throws a ball at the batter. The switches should be adjusted for a 1/32” gap and a 1/32” follow thru. It is recommended to lightly lube the cam edges, stop dog edge and all pivot points.

    Motor, Bracket and cam drive arm
    4_Motor_and_Bracket_(resized).JPG
    Motor Driver Side without the Motor
    5_Motor_Driver_Side_(resized).JPG
    Ball Lift Side

    Includes a fast pitch assembly that releases a brake like a cars brake ‘pad’. The ball gravity feeds from the trough and is raised by a pitcher arm up a circular guide rail onto the playfield. The guide rail arms can be adjusted (bent) to direct the ball release to the batters left or right sides.

    Ball Lift Guide Rails
    6_Ball_Lift_and_Pitching_Arm_Reassembled._(resized).JPG
    Ball Lift
    7_Ball_Lift_(resized).JPG
    As this is a one player game a stepper unit is used to randomize the pitches. The brake pad is always rubbing against the pitcher arm brake disc until the fast pitch coil is activated then it is released so the ball can fly faster. The current game pads are ok for wear so we will leave them alone. If they need changing a tutorial is in my World Series game topic.

    Current Game brake ‘pads’
    8_Brake_Arm_(resized).JPG
    Finally the last component that could affect the pitch operating correctly is attached to the playfield itself the pitcher flap. The flap lifts without impinging on the ball and lowers immediately afterwards. The flap should be adjusted to be (by two hold down screws) parallel to the playfield and to have a smooth release tension.

    Pitcher Speed Adjustment

    The games pitch adjustment diagrams and instructions to adjust the slow and fast pitch are shown below. They are written if you are doing the adjustment in situ on the game. The slow pitch is simple enough as it is simply turning a spring loaded (B) adjustment screw (A). See the first paragraph.

    Game Adjustment
    9_Pitcher_Sped_Adjustment_(resized).JPG
    As we don’t adjust these assemblies often it is easier to take the unit off the game and fix on the bench. This involves removing four screws that connect the unit to the playfield, two screws uncoupling the ball trough and detaching the jones plug electrical connection. Now at the bench we need to access the driving cam and pitching arm to tension adjustment the fast pitch. We need to take off the motor and its bracket by removing a further three bracket screws.

    View of Motor Side with Motor and Wire harness Removed
    10_Pitching_Adjustment_(resized).JPG
    To adjust the tension on the pitching arm to alter the fast pitch we need to release the stop screw ‘E’. The tension spring ends are connected to the pitching arm cam and the other end to the driving cam. The release of the stop screw uncouples the two cams but they are still connected by the stop dogs so all is still locked and nothing will move. There is only about 2 to 2 ½ turns max of this spring, so there is not a whole lot of adjustment.

    Tension Spring Adjustment
    11_Cam_Drivers_Tension_Spring_(resized).JPG
    If you want to increase spring tension grip the pitch arm and turn the driving cam clockwise half a turn if possible. If you want to release then spring tension then grip the pitch arm while hold the driving cam release its stop dog from the cam dwell with your finger and allow the driving cam to unwind ½ a turn. When complete turn the stop screw back in to lock the pitching arm to the driving cam and you are ready to assemble.

    To replace the tension spring release all the tension as above then remove the retaining clip from the center post and lift of the cam. The spring is held in place on the cam adjuster notches and its other end is held in a hole in the pitcher arm circular body.

    Remove the old spring and add the new one by first hooking the end in the pitcher arm cam. Then replace the driving cam carefully hooking the other spring end in the middle notch with a screwdriver. Ensure there is still a thin washer beneath the driving cam on the post before fitting. Then add a second thin washer on the post before locking in place with the clip. Originally there was a plastic washer that I believed fitted snugly in the driving cam recess collar. I found only broken remains in my game, it will work without. However, ensure the new spring does not get caught beneath the collar and the pitcher cam as you tension.

    Pitching Units Cleaning & Re-plating

    The units were stripped down and small parts made ready for the tumbler. Components that were oily and greasy were put in the ultrasonic and wiped clean before adding to the tumbler. This saves time and increases the life of the shells. The larger brackets and components were quite rusty so were put in an Evaporust bath over night to see how they would clean up. Unfortunately a lot of the electroplating was gone so the brackets needed re-plating.

    Tumbling; the metal work was quite dingy overall. The hardware was rusted on one of the games in particular, so components may needed re-plating. Tumbling parts is time consuming so you do it whilst doing other things. I usually run the tumbler for 48 hours to get where I can consider accepting them for refitting. I am using ‘Scratch Out’ as a polish medium in the tumbler and sometimes parts are OK after only 24 hours.

    Scratch out Polish Additive
    11a_7_oz_Scratch_Out_(resized).JPG
    It is readily available from O'Riellys and much cheaper than Flitz. Did I say much cheaper?

    Brackets were missing zinc plating
    12_Brackets_Plating_Issues_(resized).JPG
    I replate with an Eastwood home kit and the results have been more than satisfactory to date. Games that I have re-plated parts a couple of years ago are still looking as good as the day I did them. The Autosol paste shine has dulled but that is cosmetic. I use also a 'Fast Etch' solution as the pre pickling bath prior electroplating, it seems to prepare the metal for the dip quite well. The replating is not nickel but a tin zinc plating.

    It’s straightforward to set up. The kit gives you the solutions, power source and plating strips. Make sure you have the correct safety PPE gloves, safety glasses, long sleeve shirt etc.

    Electroplating Pre Plating Set up.
    13_Electro_platting_Set_up_(resized).JPG
    Electroplating set up.
    14_Electroplating_Set_up_2_(resized).JPG
    Typical routine is;

    1. Sand or grind the surface of part to be plated removing the old plating back to metal. I use a palm sander with 120 grit, a dremel and or a small grinder. What scratches you leave will be there after the plating. I don’t always clean all the old plating off if it is well ‘stuck’ as I am after the corrosion protection more than the cosmetic look, but that’s me.
    2. Put in the Fast Etch for 3- 5 minutes. Use your rubber gloves and have a pair of tongs to remove.
    3. Remove from etch and dip in the water to neutralize.

    Metal after Fast etch; dull and clean
    14a_Etched_parts__(resized).JPG
    4. Attach the material negative black connector to the piece and lower into the electroplating solution completely submerging. The other end positive red connector is connected to the plating strip already in the solution.

    5. Leave between 4 -10 minutes in the plating solution and remove once it has a white cloudy appearance. Again dip into the water bucket to neutralize the chemicals and it is ready for polish.

    Results from bath and polish.
    15_Electroplating_Results_(resized).JPG
    6. Using the Autosol paste rub over and leave for a few minutes to work its magic. Then polish with a clean rag until you are happy with the shine.
    Results after about 5 hours work dipping and polishing are very acceptable to me.

    Re-plated components….Cool.
    16_Finished_parts_(resized).JPG
    Pitching Motors

    I had two incorrect motors gearboxes on the unit’s one a 28 RPM and the other one a 24 RPM both with standard coils. Originally they should be a 17 RPM with a heavy duty coil. I had played the unit with the 24 RPM motor and it worked OK. Dennis Dodel whom I got the better game from said the motor he sold me stuck occasionally. Fortunately I was able to get two NOS motors off eBay that were the correct RPM and had heavy duty coils. Additionally one was the correct motor so yippee!

    NOS Pitching 17 RPM Motors
    17_New_NOS_motors_(resized).JPG
    The open frame motor tested at 16 RPM though its nameplate was 14 RPM. The shaft was ½” too long so I will cut that back in a jiffy.

    RPMs of NOS Motors after bench test
    17a_NOS_Motor_RPMs.PG_(resized).JPG
    The NOS original motor has a closed frame gearbox and that concerned me. I did not know what the grease was like after 52 years sitting on the shelf. So I drilled out the rivets and opened it up.

    Gearbox opened
    17b_Opened_Gearbox_(resized).JPG
    The grease was hardening up so I am glad I opened the gearbox up. I cleaned the gears and re-lubed with ‘Magnalube’ and put back together. I fastened using 3/16” copper tube as rivets to replace the original brass rivets. After retesting with the bench transformer power it still purrs.

    So time to reassemble the pitching units and move on the playfields to see what needs to be done with them.

    Reassembled Pitching Unit with NOS Motor
    18_Pitching_Unit_Rebuilt_(resized).JPG
    Pitch Motor showing the Fast Ball arrangement
    19_Pitch_Unit_Brake_Side_(resized).JPG

    #34 3 years ago

    Wow that is amazing work. Looks fantastic.

    #35 3 years ago

    The kids better appreciate these games!

    #36 3 years ago

    Definitely some first class full on restorations Steve!

    Ken

    #37 3 years ago

    You never cease to amaze me on your restoration work! I'm in awe. Nice work!

    #38 3 years ago
    Quoted from hoov:

    You never cease to amaze me on your restoration work! I'm in awe. Nice work!

    A nice compliment. Before long we may have some backglasses to talk about.

    #39 3 years ago

    I had an issue earlier this evening when checking the second pitching Unit. I mixed up the dogs and needed to go back to my strip down pictures. The part books are not sufficient so beware. Attached are the correct stop dog positions. Be careful the dogs are each slightly different.
    DSC04519_(resized).JPG
    DSC04518_(resized).JPG
    DSC04517_(resized).JPG
    PBR are out of 10A-172 pitcher springs. I received the wrong ones and Jimmy says that is what they have. Far too small. If anyone knows another supplier I would appreciate the tip.

    #40 3 years ago

    Phenomenal job on this! I've got one in 'fair' condition that I'll be fixing up in the near future, but it'll never look like yours, this is an amazing amount of work you're putting into this. Very cool!

    #41 3 years ago

    Thanks Ronnie,

    Its a fair game and I hope the information helps others fix theirs. There is not much info about on this game not even a good picture. if you need a decal or something let me know.

    I probably go on too much about the motors but my last baseball game that was brought back from the morgue was the result of a bad running man motor.

    The detailed write up is for me that I am happy to share here. My memory is not what it was and I am not giving up beer.

    Steve J.

    #42 3 years ago

    Looks amazing as always Steve. Your restores are fantastic.

    #43 3 years ago

    Thanks Alex. Appreciate your nod of approval any time.

    #44 3 years ago

    First class work as usual Steve. Now I can see in color what my game looked liked like 53 years ago.

    We definitely need to find replacements for those pitching arm springs. I started with two and now I'm down to 1 whole one and 1 with about 3 loops left on it. They seem to always break at one of the cams so a couple of needle nose pliers and a few bends and back in business.

    #45 3 years ago

    Nice work on the game. Seeing this thread made me go back and look at your 62 world series. Man is that nice to look at. I bet it Plays as good as it looks! If you got a friend that's looking for a 62 world series I got a nice original one I can sell.

    They are true collector games now that you've worked so hard on them. And it shows!!!

    #46 3 years ago

    The 62 World Series so far is mechanically bullet proof. Took a while to understand that it needs to be quite level. So moving it around on a sloping garage floor is not ideal. They were made so well that a deep restore is worth the effort. I play it a lot and my guests play it more than the pins.

    I am hoping for the same robust performance from these two Major League games. Don't they clean up nice? My 2015 price guide says they are worth double in good condition of a similar age pinball!

    Anyone in the south Texas area is looking for a World Series and need a go to resource just call me.

    #47 3 years ago

    Heck I'm not in south Texas area. But you've done such a good job documenting your restore I think I would have many questions to ask. The good thing about mine. Is it is in such good condition I don't want to restore the cabinet. It was fully working when I got it. The pitching unit just barely pitches the balls last time I played it.

    If I don't find someone interested I will get to work on it.

    #48 3 years ago

    Sounds like the spring. Same as the major league except a 45v motor on your World Series not a 24v.

    #49 3 years ago
    Quoted from SteveinTexas:

    Thanks Ronnie,
    Its a fair game and I hope the information helps others fix theirs. There is not much info about on this game not even a good picture. if you need a decal or something let me know.
    I probably go on too much about the motors but my last baseball game that was brought back from the morgue was the result of a bad running man motor.
    The detailed write up is for me that I am happy to share here. My memory is not what it was and I am not giving up beer.
    Steve J.

    I'm the same way and I don't even drink. I waste so much time working on things that I've already figured out in the past, but forgot about and have to re-learn all over again... so the work you're doing on this and documenting this will help me when I do mine, I'm not going to completely restore it but I do need to work through it and get it working well, so this will really help.

    #50 3 years ago
    Quoted from LyonsRonnie1:

    ....I waste so much time working on things that I've already figured out in the past, but forgot about and have to re-learn all over again... so the work you're doing on this and documenting this will help me when I do mine....

    Hi Ronnie,
    Yup, we have stuffed so much in our heads since childhood it stands to reason that all the details won't recall when we need them.

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