(Topic ID: 116618)

Baseball; 1962 World Series Pitch & Bat Game Restore. Part 2 - Complete


By SteveinTexas

4 years ago



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49. Schematic mark up.jpg
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51. Harness Repair Mark 2.JPG
48. Score Motor.JPG
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#1 4 years ago

I had to put this project a side last summer to finish another project; a Bally Can Can Bingo machine (Pictured behind the 1962 World Series). https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-1961-can-can-bingo-machine-restoration-by-a-newbie
Enough of bingo let’s play ball.
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1a Finished game
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1b Running Man refurbished diamond
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1c Finished game and our new 2015 star attraction

This is the follow on to the Part 1 topic; https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1962-world-series-pinball-restore-story .
To people not familiar with this story’s origins, it was advertised last year as parts of a game for sale; the head on Craigslist in Houston, Texas and the cabinet was on eBay for sale in Louisville, Kentucky. It had a severed harness with one half still in the head connected to the Jones plugs. I bought both parts thinking the cabinet would have an intact harness never realizing I was buying two halves of the same machine.
I have hyper-linked suppliers and information I referenced used, not because they need a plug but to assist you the reader quickly find parts you might need for a similar restore and it will save you time. I use the words restore and restorer in this topic. I only know what I know, so please go kindly on me.

Here we go.
The head urgently needed a new bottom panel like the cabinet received earlier to stop further damage and the severed wire harness had to be reconnected thereby giving me the excuse to upgrade my soldering iron with a Weller S51 station amazon.com link »
1d. Head Cabinet Damage.JPG
1. Damage to the bottom of the head
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2. New wood bottom piece with door slot groove

The wood repair came out better than I expected. It needed a slotted groove for the new door to be located.
The harness reassembly was next. I was able to identify easily most of the cut wires with the schematic as the original colors were still good. A few wire colors were reused on this game and about 10 wires needed to be carefully traced and continuity tested to ensure they were the correct. So over a week in the evenings I completed this activity.
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3. New Soldering Station
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4. Harness reconnection repair
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5. Harness reconnection repair 50% complete
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6. Harness repair all complete

I am still not sure why the head and cabinet were separated and the harness cut, there are two likely scenarios what happened.
The first scenario follows a clue discovered during the strip-down of all the different parts. I found the running man assembly motor first reduction gear wheel was totally stripped so the running man would not have worked.
Obviously this machine was not able to be on location from that point on. Eventually someone would have had to disconnect the harness at the head to get the running man assembly out and that is where the disaster probably happened and the harness was severed. From some Pinsider’s comments in this topic harness severing happens periodically! I however now believe the original operator did it for small minded business protection reasons and kept the game for parts. The two halves were never rejoined as the running man motor was never fixed and the harness was severed. The head of the game probably sat forgotten somewhere separated from the cabinet. The cabinet was stripped of parts when needed and in a worse condition than the head is evidence they were stored separately. Probably then sold off as separate pieces.
The second and most likely scenario is the head was forcibly removed in the middle of the night and held for a ransom which was never paid. Yup I am leaning towards this scenario as more likely and probably what happened.
The coin door had been painted black and had been forced open and twisted so did not close, so off it came and the internal coin parts removed for cleaning. I used paint stripper to remove the paint from the door and its surround. The paint came of pretty easily and the door on examination was in reasonable shape except for the hinge. I was able to straighten out the hinge and was pleased with the results as it squarely fits the opening surround.
7. Door Before Restoration.JPG
7. Door before restoration
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8. Door post restoration

I sanded off the original hammer finish and with a dremel got any minor rust off prior the repaint with silver hammer paint. I set the door aside for a couple of weeks to let the paint harden. I made a waterslide decal using Microsoft 'Word' and PowerPoint for the logo. I used a clear to protect it and am very happy with the results. From review of the flyers I believe that this logo is what the 62 World Series and the 63 Major League pitch and bat games had originally on the doors not the round Williams 2 1/2" logo.
The coin 5¢/10¢ and sometimes the 25¢ coin plate are missing but we were fortunate that a bunch came up on eBay recently from Pete at ‘Vintage Pinball’ and I was able to get what I needed for all the games I have to currently restore.
Possibly I should have installed the grey background color coin plates also have them now, does anyone know for sure the correct color? I have seen 4 different color examples of these coin plates.
9. Coin Plates.JPG
9. Different coin plates found.

#2 4 years ago

Bravo, Steve, bravo!

Excellent work, and must be a great feeling to have one less project nagging you. I'm sure there are plenty more projects to nag you instead!

#3 4 years ago

Hi Rod,

Yes a certain yellow colored game has appeared in my garage and is getting some attention as it's horsing around. Its going to be the best one yet.

#4 4 years ago

A lesson I've learned is not to get a head of myself and keep stripping things apart or I end up with strange washers and me poring over pictures for hours hoping for eureka moments. I try to do things in discrete work segments if I can now. Planning ahead means to me getting parts pre ordered or squirreled away ahead of time and researching how others do things I have to do. Small fill in tasks like wood lacquer coats or rebuilding the batting assembly for example are for times when larger work came to an unexpected halt. Our time is so precious with family it needs to be productive. I used to play golf and that was most unproductive, bloody game.
The running man has its own play field and the paint colors fade to a yellow green color and so I gave it a pep up. This piece of wood was de-laminating also and needed some gluing and bondo work the same as the cabinets.
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10. Running man field un-restored
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11. Running man after restore

The cardboard back box scenery was battered. 'Pinball Rescue' http://www.pinballrescue.net/Backbox_Scenery.html in Australia has reproduced this scenery so an order was placed. Took a couple of weeks but I ordered a head of time.
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12. New cardboard back box scenery

On receipt their quality is marvelous. However; be aware it is not quite the same size as the original cardboard on this game. It is 1/2” shorter in height and it only includes the curved back drop piece not the side pieces stapled to the head. There is quite a difference in color fade over the years so you really need two new scenery side pieces but that makes it quite expensive so I had another idea. I scanned the new back drop on the printer on gloss photo quality paper and stuck it with school paper glue to the original side pieces before trimming, not too bad a result. To reinstall you need to re- rivet the scenery onto their metal supports. It uses 3/32" rivets.
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13. Riveted back-box scenery
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14. Rivet back view installed
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15. Running man installed

On this game I needed different sizes rivets 1/8" and 3/16" for the motor repair kits. The press used can manage, all you need are the different squeezer dies. Information on making this press was learned about here on Pinside in other topics and is mentioned again below for reference.
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16. Riveting set up, rivet press, and dremel for polishing the rivet heads

It was now time to look at the running man assembly. As mentioned earlier I found the running man assembly reduction gear wheel was totally stripped. This gear was designed to be a sacrificial part as not a metal part. Steve Young at The Pinball Resource (PBR) sells a replacement kit with a metal gear in a clutch repair kit MP-2-CL http://www.pbresource.com/motor/MP-2-CL.jpg (frame #2 laminate motor coil width) for $36.00 ea.
This is an extract of how a typical frame #2 motor and gearbox should be reassembled if you forgot to take pictures.
17. Old Multi product motor reference.JPG
17. (I found this old multiproduct motor reference from a posting by Todd Newman on a RGP search from 2013.)
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18. Motor rivet removal 'punch tools'
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19.New clutch kit fom PBR being installed

I thought I had this repair all worked out, I had the spring pin punches, drill press, Harbor Freight ½ ton Press, http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-arbor-press-3551.html modified with the Pin restore, http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html rivet kit, 3/16” squeezer dies from Hanson Rivet http://www.hansonrivet.com/riveting-squeezer-dies.html and a clutch repair kit what could go wrong?
Well…I never checked the running man motor until I had it re-riveted, I had turned the gears by hand and they were fine. I then checked the motor and it was bad. So I had to call Steve Young at PBR and place an order for a new motor coil. This happened over the Xmas break so it took a couple of weeks to receive and ended my planned work on the game over the holiday.
I also now needed more brass rivets that come with the clutch repair kit and I did not want to buy another kit for $36.00 so I needed another solution. I found some suitably sized 3/16” copper tube from a good hardware store locally. It worked perfectly as a rivet and was only $1 per foot. Another option mentioned by John Robertson of John's Jukes Ltd, Vancouver, on a RGP thread is to drill and tap the old used drilled out rivet. I tried that also with a 6-32 tap and it worked well as a plan b if the copper tube did not work. Never fitted it but it should work.
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20. Motor rivets with alternate replacement options after drilling out.

You need to have a means to check the motor and especially its rotation direction as its ‘Murphy’s law’ you will put it together backwards BEFORE you press the rivets. I have a spare 50V transformer set up for this type of thing. If you don’t and not all the other tools mentioned it’s probably best to let Steve Young at PBR fix the motor for you. He has access to other parts, he turns around fast, and the price for the work is fair.
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21. Motor power rotation check necessary equipment. transformer, fuse, switch and alligator clips.

Finally thing was to reattach the motor lube plates, after adding some SAE20 grade oil. Earlier during the motor strip down when the motor front and back plates were separated the lube plates were gently punched out through the gear spindle hole. This made it easy to remove the brass bearings and exchange with the kit replacements. The wear in the existing bearing hole was obvious after changing so this all helps to tighten up the refurbished motor and improve its performance.
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22. Clutch kit installed ready for power check BEFORE re-riveting this time.
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23. Lubrication plate prior replacement

After reassembly of the running man with the new back-drop this completed this part of the restore.

#5 4 years ago

This project is one of my favorite Pinside adventures. You did an amazing restore that is incredibly inspiring.

Coincidently I picked up an orphan cab from a 1959 Williams Pinch Hitter last week. I was very fortunate to find a head from great guy almost immediately. A friend of mine is going to pick it up in Allentown for me and bring it back home to Wisconsin. So far it's falling in place fairly quickly. I hope it continues on as smoothly because I'm not the accomplished restorer that SteveinTexas obviously is. The idea of reuniting a bunch of pieces to make a functioning example of an old game seems extra exciting to me. Wish me luck.

#6 4 years ago

WOW...nicely done! That wire deal looks like a night mare! That's a lot of wires to resolder!

#7 4 years ago

Alex,
Go for it, hope this topic helps. I believe you are a good restorer and its a good challenge.

#8 4 years ago

Jodini,
I have two more parts to add to this story before tomorrow evening , the wires story is not finished and I get another beating with the wire before the end.

#9 4 years ago

I just worked on a machine today where the pinball was like a custody battle. One family member cut about 30 wires in the backbox to keep anyone else from owning a nice machine (Big Casino)! I gladly got it back together and another machine sees life and escapes the city dump!

#10 4 years ago

Steve, the coin plates look great. After seeing them on your nicely restored machine I am really glad I decided to sell them off. They have been sitting in a parts draw for decades. Pete.

#11 4 years ago

Pete,
It's a small part but makes a big difference to the appearance of these machines. We are glad too

#12 4 years ago

that is gorgeous...

the harness repair would have done me in...

#13 4 years ago

Next everything inside the machine needed a tear down for examination and a clean, starting with the cabinet innards. The cabinet board was removed and everything stripped off whilst taking many pictures. I have read here to look carefully in the bottom of the cabinet to see what has fallen of as a clue to what needs fixing. I found a part of a leaf roller not much else so that was possibly a good sign. The stepper units were all seized up etc so all were dismantled and put in the ultrasonic cleaner and still usually needed a vigorous tooth brushing on the larger parts and all small parts put into the tumbler.
While this is going on my eyes went to the cabinet board. Don’t you find them unsightly after 50 + years?
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24. Bottom wood panel

As I had to strip everything for examination I cleaned it off, re-glued its edges, filled holes and ‘coated with the Pecan stain and a bunch of polyurethane coats’, it now looks cool. Some red paint on the transformer they never did this originally but they could have. Finally a new three wire electrical power supply to replace the original 2 wire supply line.
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25. Bottom panel after restoration
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26. New 3 wire power supply

This machine actually has an isolation switch fitted factory which still works fine so I left it alone. Note; the following year the 63 Major League machine did not have the isolation switch installed anymore, go figure.
I put all the wire harnesses in the ultrasonic cleaner as a routine now; I also scrubbed with a tooth brush before rinsing with water. Finally blew out the water with compressed air and hung to dry for a few weeks whilst I worked on other things. While the harness was hanging around I use a dremel with a wire brush for burnishing the leaf switch contacts, I haven’t filed a contact in ages; seem to me to be the best method and only way now.
The upper head houses the score reels and some steppers on a wooden frame. The frame is held in position by two screws. The frame is easy to remove and put on the bench for an overhaul. The game actually is easy to work on as the parts are discretely designed units that separate easily. This aided the assembly line approach during the original build and definitely helps restorers. The head was very dirty mainly because there was no back door in place when it sat somewhere forgotten. No major issues were found with the parts just dirty and neglected. Care and attention was what was needed.
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27. Back Box
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28. Steppers; all clean, working and shiny again
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29. Head left side view
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30. Back box replaced window plastic.

The play-field was stripped down and cleaned next. Again the wood was delaminating so glue and clamps were a necessity. A fresh underside coat of grey paint makes it look a lot better.
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31. Restored play-field bottom panel
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32. The finished parts reassembled and installed in the game.
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33. Alex’s bat assembly; works like a charm!

I received the batting assembly from AlexF early last year as this game did not have one. I found on Marco Specialties a bunch of Slugfest parts and was able to upgrade the older parts similar to what is available today. Note any plastic Williams bat fits. The link to that topic is https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/update-your-1957-c-5161-batter-unit-assembly-with-a-slugfest-bat
The pitching assembly parts had gotten quite dirty and rusty. They needed an overnight soak in evapo-rust http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/brand.oap?mn=Evapo-Rust&mc=EVA and then what part would fit got a couple of days in the tumbler. You may need to zinc re-plate some parts as the tumbler will take the electroplating off if it is in a bad shape and left too long. I self re-plate a lot of older parts with an Eastwood kit, its straight forward quick and not too expensive.
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34. Rusted Pitching unit E-5613

The pitching unit has a brake assembly just like a brake ‘pad’. What material it was made from originally is unclear.
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35. Slow pitch brake parts
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36. Installed brake pad for slow pitch

I have remade the ‘pad’ with a piece of leather as mine had worn so it did not touch the cam side. It is glued and riveted (3/32” dia X 5/32”long tubular rivet) to the arm. This is a critical part to getting the game working correctly. The pitching arm is worked with a spring. The pinball Resource (PBR) stocks so a new one is recommended to be fitted while the pitching assembly is apart.
This game has a curve magnet fitted. This part is available on Marco Specialty website see the curve magnet link. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8702
Whilst stripping the playfield below the home run target there is a ball deflector plate that had a black glue residue for something long gone. Possibly someone has an idea what?
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37. Rear of ball deflector head plate with odd residue

#14 4 years ago

Bravo Steve! You never cease to amaze me!

#15 4 years ago

Hi Dennis,

You were very helpful in the beginning of this project and made it possible to have a part 2. The front moulding and batter assembly parts work like a charm. As you are aware I made more parts and four other people are now using this mechanism to swat the balls on their games. The next and final part of this topic finishes up with starting up this puppy, not without issues. Any way it is all good now and another game saved from a dumpster in Texas and another one in Kentucky.

Thank you Dennis.

Steve J

#16 4 years ago

The final part was the cabinet and head repaint and more importantly the start up troubleshooting. Do all this work of stripping of the head and cabinet outside.
The wood had surface issues so plenty of bondo repairs and sanding. I had to do a bit of re gluing on the on this game, By year 50+ year old glue in the wood and joints is coming apart and you need to be prepared to take action if it is to last another 25 years. It takes time to do but I believe it will stay together now for many years. I also removed the oak finish parts and totally stripped and recoated in a pecan stain. It looks good and this color ties all my restored games together. About six coats of polyurethane over the stain and it is ready. The wood sits aside while other things are going on as the coating takes a while to dry.
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38. Original head unrestored
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39. Cabinet delaminating repairs
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40. Cabinet repairs
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41. Head during strip and bondo repairs

To complete and paint took three weekends. There was due to a lot of repair needed were it had been dragged around in the past. I use auto spray paint put into rattle cans after matching the colors using my pantone color book to get it as close as possible. I primed the wood to prepare for the paint as it is way too expensive to have the wood suck this auto paint up. I spray outside and bring back into the garage to dry with a fan running and leave both garage end doors 1/4 open. I added a rear roll up door to my garage when I made it a games room. I then finish with auto clear 1K to get a gloss on the paint. You have to use a proper spray mask as this stuff is nasty either in a booth or as I don't have access then outside weather permitting.
To add the colors after the base coat I make by hand 0.05"thick Mylar film ‘master’ stencils of the art work. I then make two copies, one for each side and I cut out using my new electric Lenk L125C Stencil Cutter, amazon.com link » its way faster than cutting with craft knives. However, you need to cut on a piece of glass so not to burn the surface underneath. I got a piece from a Lowes store that cuts glass; you can use a metal straight edge and do this rest freehand.
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42. Mylar stencils and cutter Mylar stencils home made.
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43. Mylar stencils last color.
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44. Repainted head with a good color match.

The game had no back door and needed a replacement. The door being wood was quite simple to make. As I had two other games with similar heads with out or damaged door I made three at the same time. The games are in storage with doors fitted to protect them now.
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45. New door back
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46. New door front.
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47. The cabinet came out well. The new legs help show it off.

I get a little paint creep under the Mylar in some spots but it doesn't seem out of place. I also use wax on the wood to get more protection.
The last thing was to clean up the stainless steel side rails. I decided to use my sander but it was not a success. It seems to work better by hand and elbow power using different grades of sand paper from 200 to 1000 grit. This part is fair but could be better. I can always pull them of if I find a better way.

So there we are a finally united and restored 1962 World Series pinball machine that is ….well dead!

NOW BRING THE BEAST TO LIFE.

Not being able to test the game prior rebuilding is not the recommended way to restore complicated electro mechanical equipment. As well as your mistakes you don’t know what issues you have inherited.

I first looked at the fuse holder; yes fuses were still there but 20 Amps really? Three new 10 amp fuses were fitted. Add some replays on the counter and pressed the button and there was ….life! The fuses did not blow and it reset and went straight to game over. 80% of the back glass bulbs were OK. This is a good start from where we were.

I could smell burning but could not work out from where so did not leave the power on as I tinkered. This game has 110V bulbs to light the running man playfield, home run plastic and the actual playfield. The burning smell persisted every time it was turned on it was somewhat pleasant not electrical. I lifted the front moulding and I saw a burn mark on the underside of the pecan stained front molding. It was a bulb that was in this or another game I had bought. I never knew the stain had a real pecans smell, nice. A cable clip had also melted. I had seen no wattage markings on the bulb but I trusted it was OK. I looked harder this time and saw 95 watts! Replaced them all with some 25 watt bulbs and now it things are better. I need to see if 15 watt bulbs are still available.
Getting a basket case project to work flawlessly is a long tedious job. Here are the highlights or lowlights experienced. As stated before there are my mistakes, and others before me to find and correct.

1. I had installed the Out EOS switch below its mounting bracket and not above. This fixed the game over issue. Hurrah, but it took me a day and half to see it.

2. Replays didn't add on for beating the high score. Another maddening problem that eventually on review of the schematic view of the score motor cams became evident. The OP had ‘modified’ the game (same one that had cut the harness I guess). On reset the cam follower positions are shown on the schematic. The lower cam has four flat spots and two switch banks rollers should be in positioned at reset in them. Only one switch was correctly positioned on my game the other that controlled replays for high score and the name unit reset was in an adjacent bank causing the switch positions to be reversed. This on review stops the replays ever been collected for the high score and the name (WORLD SERIES) feature win.
48. Score Motor.JPG
48. Score motor switch location correction

3. Numerous other things were tweaked/fixed during the start up; re-solder of wire connections in the score reels, on the Jones plugs and any others suspected. Multiple rebuilding of the score reels to get to work flawlessly along with the pitching unit that stubbornly refused to work in the game but always on the bench. And finally review of all relay switch positions to ensure they were really connected when closed over and over again.

4. The game continued to refuse to work properly. The running men would not stand up and the runs counter step up would not work. The loading coil is energized via the various scoring switches on the playfield; the loading coil EOS energizes a mechanical rod into place to 'trip' the running mechanism below the running men and raise if a run is scored. I had to suspect my harness repair. The only recourse was to review the harness repair connections by marking on the schematic and then doing a systematical continuity check of each. I color coded the schematic showing the head components as yellow, playfield as red and the lower cabinet as blue. This all took the better part of a day. But it was the breakthrough. I was able to locate the harness repair locations and see if it would cause the issue if wrongly-wired. Using a multi-meter with a longer jumper wire the errors soon showed themselves.

Example shown below of the schematic mark up.
49. Schematic mark up.jpg
49. Schematic mark up example
51. Harness Repair Mark 2.JPG
50. Harness Rework in situ.

The red marks are harness connections and I had indeed screwed up a bunch of wire connections. I had only originally checked the wires that were multiple uses of the same color. I had inadvertently connected grays’ that looked like blues etc and for others for the life of me show I should not drink as much beer.
After the repairs, eureka, the game worked and successful games were played. It still has a few teething moments but I think if it is played a bit over the next month it will become very reliable.
The final result is a game that starts flawlessly, pitches the ball too fast for me to hit and bells and thumps all game long, it’s great. Oh and the finger to the short sighted operator for doing what he did to a beautiful game.
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51. Pride of place for the game –by the door.

#18 4 years ago

Wow! You got a great line up there! Nice job on the restore!

#19 4 years ago

wow... that is some incredible work...

just out of curiosity... how many hours you figure you put into that?

#20 4 years ago

Chris,

About 20 hours a week since last August after I finished the Can Can game and Xmas. Say ...shoot 300 to 400 hours! Its still better than playing golf! Doesn't include making the front moulding and associated bat assembly hardware.

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Chris,
About 20 hours a week since last August after I finished the Can Can game and Xmas. Say ...shoot 300 to 400 hours! Its still better than playing golf! Doesn't include making the front moulding and associated bat assembly hardware.

thanks... that is an impressive amount of patience...

since i have become rather inadequate at golf as i have gotten older, i think i'd agree with you...

#22 4 years ago

Chris,

I didn't really want to spend this amount of time at the onset, but once I bought the bits I had to follow through, I saw no other choice.

Regarding the World Series at the onset I paid $500 for the head alone, which is too much. The cabinet with shipping was $400. Missing parts cost $280.00 and auto paint another...ouch $350. So I guess $1,550 + my labor and incidentals (400 hours free + consumables like rags, screws, grease, lube, polish, wax, food and beer) say $300 = $1850.00 all in. I think the games value is determined money wise but to me the experience makes it priceless!

I have a Nags possibly next (bought from Dirtflipper) and see the same amount of time ahead of me of another 300 hours but how else can you get a keeper game for a fair price nowadays.

Steve J.

#23 4 years ago

well, personally, i think it was worth every penny and hour you spent on it... that is simply luscious...

i have serious pitch and bat envy...

#24 4 years ago

Wow, that came out beautiful and looks fantastic Steve.....Great job!

Pat

#25 4 years ago

Damn nice work

-Jeff

#26 4 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

About 20 hours a week since last August after I finished the Can Can game and Xmas. Say ...shoot 300 to 400 hours! Its still better than playing golf! Doesn't include making the front moulding and associated bat assembly hardware.

You da man Steve!

Great Restore!

Thanks for sharing.

Ken

#27 4 years ago

Amazing!

#28 4 years ago

What a truly gorgeous restore. GREAT job!

I absolutely love pitch and bat games. So much fun and a great side break from pinball. LOVE it!

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

I have a Nags possibly next (bought from Dirtflipper) and see the same amount of time ahead of me of another 300 hours but how else can you get a keeper game for a fair price nowadays.
Steve J.

To be honest Steve I doubt any amount of money would get a game of that vintage that had been so meticulously restored. You'd have to hire HEP to do it and he probably wouldn't since it's an EM!

#30 4 years ago

Ron,

Not all games are worth this amount of time, but some are. Also I enjoy the rebuild as you can tell. The 'Nags' on review this week is not going to take that long, its seems quite straight forward. I will have to spend some time learning about repairing playfields though.

There is a lot of information and examples on this site. I am quite visual and don't always understand only word answers but with picures I usually can understand the answers (and questions) in peoples posts. With the ability to put such large pixel pictures in the topics it really helps to make to make Pinside an excellent depository for restoration work. Some of the restoration topics are inspiring. People are trying new products and there so much help on offer.

As the prize original condition games are now very scarce it is coming a 'golden age for restorations'. If you are inclined and if not its still a good time in the hobby.

Steve J.

1 week later
#31 4 years ago

Steve ,
I can not imagine a better outcome on this job . I always joke with friends about not having a magic wand .....it looks like you do . Great work !
Scott

#32 4 years ago

Steve,

I also have a 1962 World Series that I acquired many years ago. It is missing the back door. Could you provide the dimensions and materials used so that I could make my own? I would greatly appreciate it.
Btw... Awesome work! You game looks brand new.

Kevin

#33 4 years ago

Kevin,
Happy to. Let me look at a previous email and i will double check the dimensions I sent to someone and post later today.

#34 4 years ago

Kevin,

The lack of this door is the direct reason some games I have bought were not in such good condition. Great you are replacing it.

It's made from 1/2" plywood, so go to any box store and pick up a 48" X 24" sheet and get them to make the two cuts to the correct size below free.

1. Its actual size is 22 15/16" wide and 34 1/8" high.
2. A notch for the power cable is 2" from the right side looking from the back.
3. The notch is 1/4" wide and 3/4" long.
4. The lock hole is 1 3/16" from top in center of the door. Get your lock and drill the first larger hole with a pilot drill so when you drill the lock through hole it is centered. The recessed diameter you drill depends on your lock size.
5. Additionally there is a wood strengthening piece 21" long x 1" deep x 3/4" wide it is placed 10 3/8" to top edge from its top edge.
6. Finally there is a 1/4" recess at the bottom edge facing the back side to locate the door in the game.

Ensure you seal the wood before priming. I didn't and it sucked up too much paint even though I primed it, go figure.
DSC03370.JPG
View of the bottom recess and notch.

DSC03269.JPG
DSC03272.JPG

3 months later
#35 4 years ago

Steve,

I am new to this forum, and your 2-part post is the reason I joined. I own a 1962 Williams World Series that my father recently passed down to me. It has been in our family almost 40 years. In a move shortly before I was born, it was damaged and quit working. At the time, my father owned a second flipper machine that he traded, in order to have the pitch-and-bat repaired. Through my teenage years this pinball brought me and my friends a lot of joy, and my father passed it on to me when I graduated college. However, the system has been through a number of moves since my father had it repaired, and it has a few bugs and issues that need to be ironed out. In addition, inspired as I am by this thread, I want to do some level of restoration.

I am a complete newbie when it comes to pinball machine repair and electro-mechanical pinball machines. What I do have going for me, is a degree in electrical engineering (still not as valuable as it sounds when it comes to EM systems, but I know how to measure I,V,R,continuity and debug) and the ability to do all kinds of solder repair and rework. I also have the passion and interest that come from having grown up with this system. We can certainly take this discussion offline and I can PM you, but I thought several of my questions and comments would be useful for other folks, especially as they relate to this pinball machine specifically.

General newb tips are welcome, but I have started by familiarizing myself with a few resources:

* The Pinball Resource website
* http://www.pinrepair.com/em/ - just started reading through this, but it seems like a great starting point
* Your posts on this restore project, and several of your recommended links.
* Shay Arcade Group for a new backglass replica (plexiglass - curious if you or others on this site have experience with these) http://shayarcadegroup.com/index.html
* IPDB for this machine, with useful images and links http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2814
* Schematic - purchased online

My system has the following cosmetic issues that I would like to try to tackle, similar to what you did (some with questions):

* Replace Flaking Back Glass (shay arcade group replica?)
* Replace rusted legs, bolts, levelers (did you go with 28.5"?)
* Repair chips, dings, dents on cabinet and head using bondo, wood filler, sanding, etc
* Repaint exterior - would love anything you can provide regarding paint colors, methods/tricks, stencils, etc. I know you mentioned auto paint in cans - any extra details would be great.
* Replace rusted bat handle - saw this post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-bats-for-williams-pitch-and-bat-machines
* Replace back box scenery like you did - http://www.pinballrescue.net/Backbox_Scenery.html
* Potentially repaint back box flooring, like you did - again, paint colors, methods/tricks, stencils are all helpful here
* Add cylinder locks to back panel and coin panel
* Repaint pitch flap? Did you do this? Is this easy?
* Repaint Coin door (hammered silver)
* Install new plastic bats (where do you get them?)

Electrically/functionally , I have the following items to take care of:

* Replace several light bulbs
* Add 3-prong power cable
* Repair pitch brake
* Check pitch magnet
* Setup coin acceptors (currently, the game is set to free play. Would need to re-enable pay mode, and work on slug rejectors, etc)

Finally, I have the following bugs / issues to work out (ideas welcomed!):

* When I hit a grand slam, the World Series letters aren't filling in for the bonus play. This used to work
* Replays / Credits don't appear to be updating in the little window. This used to work
* High score rolls back to 20 immediately upon crossing 30 runs. IPDB makes it sound like an operator setting, although I would expect the High Score to roll back on a reset, not immediately after crossing 30. Also, this system used to allow the high score to remain, so not sure how the setting changed.
* Bat has gotten pretty weak (even with dial turned up). Not sure if a new coil is needed, or just some contact cleaning and such. In any case, home runs are very difficult to hit (hit fence usually), super home run is impossible.
* Probably the biggest issue - outs are not being counted properly. Approximately 50% of the time the ball goes in an out hole, the out does not get counted. The bulb blinks for a second, but the out does not tally. Does not matter which out hole the ball goes in. When my father had the system fixed, outs functioned properly.

I am just starting in on this, and know I have a lot ahead of me. I am looking very forward to learning about this machine, and getting it back in tip-top shape. Once I start, I may create a similar thread to this one, except it will contain all the trials and tribulations of a newbie attempting the same thing. I would love to pick your brain more, and bounce ideas off you as I go along.

At minimum, thanks for this wonderful post. You really made a masterpiece out of your system!

Cheers!
-Kyle

#36 4 years ago

A big thumbs up!
Very nice.

#37 4 years ago

Hi Kyle,

I am actually a relative newbie but have engineering skills from my apprenticeship a long time ago. Your post is very thoughtful on the first read, probably more on the second. Your training is just perfect for getting the game to work. You will need a schematic though, see you have already. The bugs are straight forward and it is probably just cleaning that is needed. Coils don't go weak but contacts get dirty and misaligned sometimes and need some love to get the pep back. Currently my game is working like a champ. I have never hit a super home run yet and my bat is strong.

I need to read your post some more to assist you. I love this game and when I bought it I had a family loss so fixing it became a tribute to my late brother and too come to terms with my loss and to remember him. Anyway enough of the heavy stuff.

First, everything you want to do you can do. We can access the parts still or make them. This site especially the Em area Is filled with knowledgeable people ready to help. They helped me and will help you. The time this could take depends on what you will settle for. You can pm me and I will help you but in addition you should start your own thread and we will all help.

#38 4 years ago

Kyle,

Quoted from alkregha:

Finally, I have the following bugs / issues to work out (ideas welcomed!):
1 When I hit a grand slam, the World Series letters aren't filling in for the bonus play. This used to work
2 Replays / Credits don't appear to be updating in the little window. This used to work
3 High score rolls back to 20 immediately upon crossing 30 runs. IPDB makes it sound like an operator setting, although I would expect the High Score to roll back on a reset, not immediately after crossing 30. Also, this system used to allow the high score to remain, so not sure how the setting changed.
4 Bat has gotten pretty weak (even with dial turned up). Not sure if a new coil is needed, or just some contact cleaning and such. In any case, home runs are very difficult to hit (hit fence usually), super home run is impossible.
5 Probably the biggest issue - outs are not being counted properly. Approximately 50% of the time the ball goes in an out hole, the out does not get counted. The bulb blinks for a second, but the out does not tally. Does not matter which out hole the ball goes in. When my father had the system fixed, outs functioned properly.

-Kyle

Kyle Lets start with bugs and get the game to play, then lets get it in better shape.

Here is a start to answering your questions;
1. When I hit a grand slam, the World Series letters aren't filling in for the bonus play. This used to work.

Answer; The grand slam relay is located in the lower cabinet in a group of three relays. It pulses a stepper in the cabinet called the Name Unit I believe. This pulses a contact arm over one rivet each time (lights the progress through the name WORLD SERIES) and the stepper does not reset each new game or even if the power is switched off and back on. These contacts have delicate springs to pressure the light contacts and can get stuck among other components issues. So we need to clean all the stepper moving parts as they may be gummed up also.

An overhaul of a baseball game is easier than most pinballs because the game parts in the light box, running man and cabinet are all on board mounted sub-assemblies. By removing a few screws and jones plugs they will pull out of the game. I like to take the sub-assemblies out of the game and bring to the bench. It is so much easier on your back to work on them this way.

I take initially before I touch anything else many pictures (lots especially of spring and linkage positions) prior dis-assembly and cleaning. To remove a stepper you can take the coil stops screws out and leave the coils in the game. Then carefully remove the stepper electrically connected bake-lite rivet parts by undoing a few nuts and screws and leave the game electrically connected. Be careful that you know in your pictures where the washers go, if you don’t you need to throw them away before your wife asks you where they go. This a joke because you took a picture.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner and tumbler but you don’t need them, clean with a degreaser in the sink. When you have cleaned the parts and reassemble and sparingly lube any metal to metal rotating parts and some electrical contact grease on the stepper rivets only. Never get lube near a coil and plunger. If in doubt put no lube in home use games they will be fine. I attach a lube guide chart from the time.
Lube Chart Page 1.JPG
Lube Chart 2.JPG

The switch contacts need cleaning and readjusting. I have not cleaned a set of contacts by filing since I bought a ‘dremel’ with the wire brush did such a bang up job.

2. Replays / Credits don't appear to be updating in the little window. This used to work.

Answer; Fix the same as above it’s a different kind of stepper that’s all.

3. High score rolls back to 20 immediately upon crossing 30 runs. IPDB makes it sound like an operator setting, although I would expect the High Score to roll back on a reset, not immediately after crossing 30. Also, this system used to allow the high score to remain, so not sure how the setting changed.

Answer; Start by cleaning the red high score reels assembly. They are a little trickier but is the same procedure again as a stepper. Please take extra pictures as you disassemble. Be very careful cleaning the score reel. The red paint just wants to rub off if you look at wrong! Just use lukewarm soapy water at most and rub so carefully (don’t ask how I know). We can then move on from there.

4. Bat has gotten pretty weak (even with dial turned up). Not sure if a new coil is needed, or just some contact cleaning and such. In any case, home runs are very difficult to hit (hit fence usually), super home run is impossible.

Answer; The linkage on the bat assembly gets all gummed up over time. This is fitted under the playfield but again we can use some slugfest replacement parts. Best you review the assembly especially the bat EOS switch contacts. The metal linkage can also become worn badly over time if not looked at. If you want to provide pictures this will help the guys here tell you what to do.

5. Probably the biggest issue - outs are not being counted properly. Approximately 50% of the time the ball goes in an out hole, the out does not get counted. The bulb blinks for a second, but the out does not tally. Does not matter which out hole the ball goes in. When my father had the system fixed, outs functioned properly.

Answer; In my game they all count unfortunately so i actually like the sound of your game better. Again it’s a stepper in the cabinet called the Out Unit and the rivet contact springs and probably the whole stepper are gummed up. By now you should know what to do.

Kyle I am seeing a good shop of your game in the near future. And then many hours of fun. You also need access to a parts book. PPS has not helped with EM Williams’s parts supplies currently. However, they have put the parts manuals on line so and this really helps when ordering parts from Pinball resource as they need the numbers to find if they have the part. Also it helps us on the forum help you with locating parts. Here is the link.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK

Possibly for new questions start another thread as the guys here are older and when scrolling through my stuff they may fall a sleep before getting to your bits.

2 years later
#39 1 year ago

All,
I have had the pitching spring for this game remade. For availability see the linked thread. It is as good or better than the original. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-pitch-unit-springs-now-available#post-4262127

Steve J.

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