Now to make the front Moulding; the front template was fun to make. Again I took careful dimensions of the original and made Mylar tracings to use as templates.
Moulding Mylar Marked Template.JPG
I glued the Mylar Tracing Templates to oak moulding wood prior to the router work; the original front moulding is 1 1/2" thick, made from two pieces. It was cheaper to get some quality red oak already pre cut to the correct width (within a 1/16") I got the wood from a box store.
I made another set up as I really did not know much about using a router freehand. Lesson learned you don’t, you need to use a physical guide. I marked the depths to cut as clear as possible and made a sort of jig out of 3/4" plywood so I could make straight edges to try and keep it looking presentable.
Moulding top after Router work..JPG
Moulding bottom piece after router work; Depths were cut well and accurate but free hand cutting was poor to barely acceptable. The upper piece was easier than the lower piece, as it had only one cut and did not take more than two evenings to complete.
Moulding top and bottom glued overnight.JPG
Moulding top and bottom glued overnight; I glued and clamped the pieces overnight and trimmed to size the next evening.
Moulding Lettering prototype.JPG
Moulding Lettering Prototype; I used Microsoft Word to make the lettering, it was not hard and I printed using the software ‘mirror’ function on an overhead transparent sheet. As the print ink is not on the sheet surface it cannot be scratched. The finished article is not perfect and I may yet redo it but it is ok for now. The next step was to add the ‘Formica’ type surface. I had to buy a piece that was of a similar color and half a 10’ X 5’ sheet. I could make a further 18 if someone wants.
Fabricated Front moulding and Bat Lever.JPG
It all fits well. The lever assembly template fits snug to the cabinet wooden bulkhead front so using the thin lock nuts on the pivot is critical. I bought the correct shade of green paint but did not use it. Why paint over quality oak wood? As this is my third project I used the same pecan varnish shade as the other projects, and it will look great when the final varnish coats are applied sitting alongside the other games.
Fabricated Front Moulding and Bat Lever Mechanism.JPG
I possibly made the hold down rods too big. They need only be 1/4" rod so the wing nuts can be tightened. The 5/16" rod shown has to use ordinary nuts. Small point but it’s the details that make these such good projects.
63 Major League Front Moulding.JPG
Here is Dennis's 63 Major League Front Moulding I copied.
New Front Moulding.JPG
And here is the new 62 World Series Front Moulding
Gottlieb v Williams buttons.JPG
I also needed to make 3/4" diameter aluminum buttons for the game. PBR sell a Gottlieb 7/8" button that can be easily turned down in a lathe possibly a drill press and presto Williams buttons!
I have made multiple spares of mostly everything including bat levers if people are interested. I will sell cheaply to defray some of my costs for failed prototypes (there were a few) and purchase of many wrong springs. PM me if you are interested. Alternately I have some hand drawings and pictures of how I made it that you are welcome to have a copy of, again just email me.
So here I am all parts found and this is now a officially a restore project that can be completed 100% …as long as I solder the 73 wires correctly so it will eventually all work. What could go wrong now?
I need to put this project on hold for a while and get back to my Bally Can Can Bingo restore and leave the World Series to the autumn with a XMAS finish target.
Part 1 is officially complete.
Regards Steve J
Again thanks in no small part to pinsider Dennis Dodel.
Post edited by SteveinTexas: Clarity