(Topic ID: 89620)

Baseball; Williams 1962 World Series Pitch and Bat; Restore Story Part 1


By SteveinTexas

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by way2wyrd
  • Topic is favorited by 7 Pinsiders

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There have been 40 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Gottlieb v Williams buttons.JPG
New Front Moulding.JPG
63 Major League Front Moulding.JPG
Fabricated Front Moulding and Bat Lever Mechanism.JPG
Fabricated Front moulding and Bat Lever.JPG
Moulding Lettering prototype.JPG
Moulding top and bottom glued overnight.JPG
Moulding top after Router work..JPG
Moulding Mylar Marked Template.JPG
Bat Lever Close Up.JPG
Turning the Bat Levers in Stages.JPG
New and original bat lever.JPG
Assembly Side View.JPG
Assembly Back View.JPG
Bat Lever Assembly Front.JPG
Lathe 7X16 by Micro-mark.JPG

#1 5 years ago

Part 1; Getting all the Parts.

A couple of months ago I bought from Craigslist in Houston Texas a Williams 1962 World Series Baseball pinball head with a good back glass. I had seen a same game cabinet for sale in Louisville Kentucky on eBay, I got them both.
We briefly discussed this on the forum and the consensus was do it. Yes, you told me to! Only joking I knew this was a risky project putting them together but how this is turning out has brought about some unexpected issues to overcome.

What it should and will be like by year's end.

Courtesy of Collector cfh@provide.net

Game Complete.jpg

Post edited by SteveinTexas: missed credit

#2 5 years ago

Man if that is the assembled machine it is looking great so far!

#3 5 years ago

First the not to be unexpected; the head has cabinet damage from being dragged around but apart from that it was in fair condition. It was quite clean and the pitcher unit appears in fine order.

What happened to the base support? It also had no back door. The missing edges will take careful work to fix but not a minor issue.

Head Cabinet Damage.JPG

The back glass is in pretty good condition; most baseball games back glass see seem to be OK. There are not too many heat sources behind it, perhaps? The back glass showing the credit window was blocked out, guess this game was operated in New York or Wisconsin where gambling was illegal?

Back Glass.JPG
Back Glass Replay Window Covered.JPG

A few weeks after buying the cabinet the freighter finally delivered it to their Houston depot. As expected it was missing parts due to pillage. There was no batter unit, no bat lever or assembly, front moulding, red ramps , or cabinet glass. There were only two legs remaining and the eBay picture didn't show missing back end woodwork. There was rodent evidence; it was very dirty and in worse mechanical and overall condition than the head by a long way. But it was a fair deal as it wasn't advertised as anything different and didn't cost much either.

Sold as advertised I guess to eager buyer!

The head and cabinet parts were chewed up where they had been separated and dragged around and damage was considerable but not something that couldn't be repaired with time. So this project is moving along, no show stoppers yet.

Play field as Received..JPG
Cabinet with Missing Front Moulding and Controls.JPG
Cabinet Back.JPG

A back panel was added immediately to get the game back in shape and give it some stability when moved around.

DSC02514.JPG

Post edited by SteveinTexas: Clarity

#4 5 years ago

Hold on Alex that is not how my machine looks ...Yet!

#5 5 years ago

So moving ever forward, I needed parts. I started asking about the parts I wanted on Pinside. 'AlexF' offered a 1957 ...ish batter unit he had spare. I picked it up and I was able to get the missing parts needed as discussed with Alex so no issues. Since I got this older batter unit I have further upgraded it with slugfest parts from Marco Specialties I will add a restore topic in a day or two if anyone needs to fix up theirs.

A few months ago a fellow pinball restorer Kevin Godwin made a ramp mold and some extra ramp sets. Alex pointed me to Kevin’s advert and I again picked up a set. They are excellent and thicker than the original.

Shay had a plastics set, it was the last one and I was told It’s a little scratched but it will do fine, with some minor touchup. I snapped that up too.

I was on a roll or so I thought.

Replaced Parts.JPG
#6 5 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

Hold on Alex that is not how my machine looks ...Yet!

Sorry, I'm just excited. I got to play a small role and think it's an awesome project.

#7 5 years ago

Parts located so far, batter unit, back plastics and red ramps.

Now the unexpected; when I received the head, the cabinet Jones plugs had the cabinet wiring harness attached, how? You probably guessed it. Below the last Jones connector the harness wiring had been completely severed from the cabinet harness. Why had someone not simply pulled the three sets of Jones connector pins out and tucked them back in the cabinet before removing the head. All 73 wires cut. How could this have happened, crazy movers perhaps? My thoughts then went to the still to be delivered cabinet as I now realized the risk putting these different halves together if the cabinet wiring had been messed with. This project was starting to give me concern on being viable as a restoration project.

I had my fingers crossed that when the cabinet half came that the wiring harness would be intact. Finally it arrived at the shippers and I picked it up, brought it home, uncrated the cabinet and moved it to my garage. My worry was realized the harness had been butchered. All 73 wires to the head completely severed. The cut was the exact reverse of the head, and at the same point in the harness. I quickly checked the part numbers. Yes the two halves of the original machine are reunited and I need to buy more solder!

How does this happen? I suspect the movers were lazy or a divorce settlement possibly? Dennis Dodel asked me to try and find out some history from the sellers but all I got was this. The head was part of an estate sale locally and the cabinet so the shipper told me last night may have originated also from Texas. Unless someone on the forum knows I am stumped.

Harness Cut.JPG

Post edited by SteveinTexas: duplication

#8 5 years ago

Oh my. So you actually reunited the original head and body!? What are the odds. Too bad about the wiring harness but hopefully you can match them up. 73 is a lot though. It may take some trial and error.

#9 5 years ago

Nice story Steve. Great to see the cab and head back together again, (big odds on that) but you're gonna have fun soldering and heat shrinking all those wires back together to restore the harness. Wish I was in Houston to give you a hand.

#10 5 years ago

I have had ball bowlers brought to the shop with the wires cut like that--by the owner! Takes me about 12 hours to reconnect them. Your'e gonna need a good soldering station.

#11 5 years ago

Why the wire were cut is baffling. Fortunately the wire colors are quite clear. Yes an upgrade of soldering equipment is in order. Do you have a recommendation?

Additionally from a review of the schematic there is not a lot of color wire repeats. Its a chore to fix, but will be done in the next couple of months. This project had more pressing issues to become a viable restore project.

What was more pressing than the wires re-connection was the missing parts. Getting the missing parts that has been a complete blank. I had no front moulding so no pitching button and more importantly no bat lever or its assembly.

See my request for help on Pinside a month ago. http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-1962-world-series-pitch-bat-front-moulding-need-dimensions-help

I thought that these all would be findable parts. No such luck. I'm sure they are out there but no one is sharing. I placed ad's in all places I knew without a hit, except a gentleman who offered me a spare bat lever he had. I snapped this up. Since then no parts surfaced anywhere.

So I needed a plan B which is the second part of the story and this i will update you all tomorrow as my wife wants me off the PC and to go out to eat.

This is the best part of the story for me. Asking and getting help from my fellow pinsiders when I was totally unsure how I could move this project forward.

Post edited by SteveinTexas: duplication

#12 5 years ago

wicked cool*... and it would be neat to know the full backstory...

*well, other than the having to solder together 73 wires...

#13 5 years ago

After getting zero contact for the parts apart from the bat I then asked for help here on pinside for dimensions and pictures so I could try to make them. Immediately I got help offered especially from pinsider 'Dennis Dodel'.
He immediately loaned me the parts from a 63 Major League game to help me.

Front moulding 2.JPG
Under Front Moulding View..JPG
bat handle.JPG

I am so grateful to Dennis; his only request was to show the pinsider’s the results on this forum. So here they are.

Original and new prototype.JPG

The results are the missing parts have been fabricated and are discussed in this article. It all works as well as the original parts. It's mostly aluminum fabrication and carbon steel were base parts exist with easy access or in the case of the bat lever need to be very strong. As the mechanism will be used in a home environment it will fare well I believe for years to come.

Post edited by SteveinTexas: clarity

Fabricated Front moulding and Bat Lever.JPG
#14 5 years ago

that is some quality work right there... very well done...

#15 5 years ago

On receipt of Dennis's parts to copy I needed to get moving. Other restore stuff was put on hold.

It is in my opinion from years involved professionally with designing and building complicated facility projects to start with a concept idea and put in all down on paper. So I started by making an as-built set of sketches of the original bat lever assembly and the front moulding.

Then prepared a new design with minimum changes. I only wanted to redesign what I could not replicate easily. I needed to bolt where it was welded/brazed and use materials better suited to my abilities to manipulate. This I planned out on paper with dimensions prior buying anything. The prototype eventually made was OK.

Bat Lever Prototype-945.JPG

However, it had short comings. I salvaged basic parts and rebuilt with smaller bumpers better springs and more care making the pivot work a lot smoother by machining in a recess for a nylon washer at the rotation interface.

The bat lever pivot manufacture was the most difficult thing to make as it was a change to the design; I finally used a 1/2" carbon steel connector nut cut in half with face cleaned up on a lathe. A 1 1/2" bolt threaded thru the nut to make the pivot with a nylon lock nut on the other side of the assembly plate.

Bat Lever Pivot.JPG

The connector and bolt were then drilled out with a 5/16" bit to allow for the bat lever (see picture). The assembly body is 1/8" aluminum the same size as the original. I found on eBay 6"' X 9" X 1/8" pieces for sale in sets of four. I recessed the aluminum and added a 1/16" nylon washer drilled out to a tad over the 1/2". The purpose is that it will help the pivot point turning and take any future wear and be easily changeable.

Time will tell if it ever needs changing I actually doubt it. On the other side is a 1/2" nylon lock nut. It is tightened but with enough clearance to let the pivot turn. This is where wear can be managed by further lock-nut tightening in the future. I used aluminum as it was easy to fabricate, you can use wood tools to cut it without any damage to your carbide chop saw blades. I can't braze it but it’s easy to drill and screw together.

The 1/2" connector nut was originally cut in half with a chop saw. It was not exactly square and caused some issues for a while. When I was able to get a lathe to make the bat levers it was squared up quickly and the parts worked as planned. Until I was able to square up the coupling nut it was not a smooth rotation. I added a nylon washer to help this connection and it improved things further similar to the original. The original nuts were too wide for the game to fit and I had to get thin lock nuts in the final assembly.

Making the Bat Lever Hole.JPG

I drilled the hole for the bat lever through both the coupling and the bolt at the same time.

Facing the Pivot Connector Nut.JPG

Facing the coupling nut.

Electoplating Set Up.JPG

I needed to electroplate the steel cut edges on the pivots coupling and bolt. It takes only a few minutes to plate and a further few minutes to polish up using this kit shown.

Post edited by SteveinTexas: Carity

#16 5 years ago

There can be no doubt that SteveinTexas does excellent quality work. That is going to be one fine game when you're done.
It's too bad about that harness. Who knows why people do the things they do

I hope to soon begin experimenting with copper electroplating. I haven't done it before but there's a lot of youtube videos about it. It would be nice to plate some of my less cosmetic looking pin devices like brackets etc.

#17 5 years ago

Hi Steve, I take great delight in your posts, the recent restore was inspiring. Maybe when the Texas pinsiders see the topic they might have an idea what happened.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from SteveFury:

It's too bad about that harness. Who knows why people do the things they do

Great work so far Steve!

On the Harness are your wires still long enough to reinstall Jones Plugs? If so I would find some used ones and put it back to original. If the wires are too short from the cuts then you could do extensions on the wires and still use the Jones Plugs which would be time consuming but work as it would be nice to still have a quick disconnect.

Ken

#19 5 years ago

Thanks EM- Pinman,

Yes they are long enough. But that's part of the weirdness I have the Jones plugs they were connected still to the head!

I just took this pic to show you.

The cut appears to been a single cut and it is actually 2" below the final Jones Plug so I think there is an inch or so spare cable 'slop' to work with. I haven't fixed it yet but plan to cut back the cloth 1/2" or so, add 2" of heat shrink, twist together solder and and cover with the heat shrink. It will take a week or so I guess. Some beer, good music and it will eventually get done.

Thank you for the offer of the plugs. I picked some up on eBay a while back as I needed to change one.

photo.JPG
#20 5 years ago

Steve,
The tin /zinc plating kit was less than $70 from Eastwood.They have in the kit a tube of Autosol which shines up the plating and a lot of people say its the best. I used cheap metal polish and can't see the difference. Seems to be on special today $62.

Here is the link; http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-tin-zinc-electroplating-system.html

An ad I saw yesterday in there mag seems to indicate you can clearcoat after polishing with autosol for longer protection of the shine. I need to review further.

#21 5 years ago

Bat Lever Assembly Fabrication

I added an aluminum front angle readily available in any box store. The bumpers are Hi-Fi equipment feet advertised on eBay with free shipping. PBR had the compression spring and the tension spring available from Ace Hardware. The tension spring was the most difficult part to find. I have a large box of failed springs now, mostly too weak. The electrical switch parts were mostly from PBR parts to suit.

Bat Lever Close Up.JPG

The bat lever had to be fabricated.

It was too expensive to get fabricated professionally in my opinion. It is 40 years since I completed a 6 week lathe course during my apprenticeship but I needed to have a go. Something's you learn 40 years ago still stick like how to make something but not to never never touch the cuttings swarf with your fingers, it was a bloody re-lesson!

Turning the Lever.JPG

I bought a 4 foot long 3/4" carbon steel rod locally and used my chop say to cut 5 lever lengths have turned down to a 5/16” diameter. I prepare a step by step plan to get 5 made as quickly as possible. I needed to check the plan by making the first one. Then I made revisions to the plan to speed up the production of a bunch more. It took about 35 hours total to make them all.

Production Step by Step Instruction Sheet.JPG

Turning the Chamfer and groove.JPG

I am very happy with the outcome as the bats made were to tolerance and I was able to improve one thing; the e clips groove. On the original bats that I was able to measure the e clip groove was not to the correct diameter of 0.25". I took time to get them correct and the 5/16" clips fit much better on my new bats.

New and original bat lever.JPG

Shown is a new bat on top and the original below.

Turning the Bat Levers in Stages.JPG

Here is the final assembly after a good polish with new fabricated bat, correct e clips, bumpers switch and springs.

Bat Lever Assembly Front.JPG
Assembly Back View.JPG
Assembly Side View.JPG

The machine I used was the Micro-mark 7"X 16". I needed a 4" chuck to accommodate the 3/4" diameter lever fitting inside the machine turning turning operations.

Lathe 7X16 by Micro-mark.JPG

Next the Front Moulding!

Post edited by SteveinTexas: Clarity

#22 5 years ago

Gosh your remake looks factory to me. Simply excellent.

#23 5 years ago

Thanks Steve. Kevin Godwin wants an assembly immediately so the one pictured is ready to mail to him.

#24 5 years ago
Quoted from SteveinTexas:

I haven't fixed it yet but plan to cut back the cloth 1/2" or so, add 2" of heat shrink, twist together solder and and cover with the heat shrink.

Perfect! That's what I do as well and there will be no connection problem what so ever when you are done.

You are right about the cut and thanks for the photo as there was no reason for it in the first place.

Ken

#25 5 years ago

wow, you did a great fabrication job on that bat assembly Steve. Well done, and kudos to Dennis for lending you the parts to copy from. I'm enjoying following your progress through your great photos. Keep up the good work

#26 5 years ago

Now to make the front Moulding; the front template was fun to make. Again I took careful dimensions of the original and made Mylar tracings to use as templates.

Moulding Mylar Marked Template.JPG

I glued the Mylar Tracing Templates to oak moulding wood prior to the router work; the original front moulding is 1 1/2" thick, made from two pieces. It was cheaper to get some quality red oak already pre cut to the correct width (within a 1/16") I got the wood from a box store.
I made another set up as I really did not know much about using a router freehand. Lesson learned you don’t, you need to use a physical guide. I marked the depths to cut as clear as possible and made a sort of jig out of 3/4" plywood so I could make straight edges to try and keep it looking presentable.

Moulding top after Router work..JPG

Moulding bottom piece after router work; Depths were cut well and accurate but free hand cutting was poor to barely acceptable. The upper piece was easier than the lower piece, as it had only one cut and did not take more than two evenings to complete.

Moulding top and bottom glued overnight.JPG

Moulding top and bottom glued overnight; I glued and clamped the pieces overnight and trimmed to size the next evening.

Moulding Lettering prototype.JPG

Moulding Lettering Prototype; I used Microsoft Word to make the lettering, it was not hard and I printed using the software ‘mirror’ function on an overhead transparent sheet. As the print ink is not on the sheet surface it cannot be scratched. The finished article is not perfect and I may yet redo it but it is ok for now. The next step was to add the ‘Formica’ type surface. I had to buy a piece that was of a similar color and half a 10’ X 5’ sheet. I could make a further 18 if someone wants.

Fabricated Front moulding and Bat Lever.JPG

It all fits well. The lever assembly template fits snug to the cabinet wooden bulkhead front so using the thin lock nuts on the pivot is critical. I bought the correct shade of green paint but did not use it. Why paint over quality oak wood? As this is my third project I used the same pecan varnish shade as the other projects, and it will look great when the final varnish coats are applied sitting alongside the other games.

Fabricated Front Moulding and Bat Lever Mechanism.JPG

I possibly made the hold down rods too big. They need only be 1/4" rod so the wing nuts can be tightened. The 5/16" rod shown has to use ordinary nuts. Small point but it’s the details that make these such good projects.

63 Major League Front Moulding.JPG

Here is Dennis's 63 Major League Front Moulding I copied.

New Front Moulding.JPG

And here is the new 62 World Series Front Moulding

Gottlieb v Williams buttons.JPG

I also needed to make 3/4" diameter aluminum buttons for the game. PBR sell a Gottlieb 7/8" button that can be easily turned down in a lathe possibly a drill press and presto Williams buttons!

I have made multiple spares of mostly everything including bat levers if people are interested. I will sell cheaply to defray some of my costs for failed prototypes (there were a few) and purchase of many wrong springs. PM me if you are interested. Alternately I have some hand drawings and pictures of how I made it that you are welcome to have a copy of, again just email me.

So here I am all parts found and this is now a officially a restore project that can be completed 100% …as long as I solder the 73 wires correctly so it will eventually all work. What could go wrong now?

I need to put this project on hold for a while and get back to my Bally Can Can Bingo restore and leave the World Series to the autumn with a XMAS finish target.

Part 1 is officially complete.

Regards Steve J

Again thanks in no small part to pinsider Dennis Dodel.

Post edited by SteveinTexas: Clarity

#27 5 years ago

Steve,

This is definitely a labor of love. Your skillset is amazing - you were destined to be the person to bring this game back to life.

Your small world story is nothing short of amazing, to put back together the two primary parts of this game, much less from two distant locations. It reminds me of a news article I read in the Detroit Free Press back in the mid 1980's where a guy had his car stolen in Detriot. When they found it days later it was missing, among other things, the front clip (hood, fenders, and front grille and bumper). So the body shop repairing it, as they are accumulating the missing parts, found a used front clip from a parts yard in Toledo, OH, about an hour away. The clip is the same paint color as the original car, and has a scratch on one fender that matches the scratch that remained on the adjacent door. It was the same parts that were chopped from his car.

I've seen the results of the uneducated/misguided in terms of getting a head separated from a body. Saw a Gottlieb Big Brave at Pinball Expo back around 2000 where the same had been done to separate them. It's more common than you think.

Good luck with the remaining work but I don't think luck has anything to do with it now.

Mike O.

#28 5 years ago

Thanks Mike,

Wow, they took the parts then offloaded them, its the same thing, weird.

For me, It was probably not the easiest project to take on. I had to make a decision quickly as the head and cabinet halves were up for sale not auction. This is not the best circumstances to make a good decision. The wire cutting is strange and we will probably never know why but this game is coming back!

I was surprised initially that the parts were not available. On reflection they are subject to hard wear so it is not surprising that they are not available. Others have the same parts missing or in disrepair and although the bat assembly with this lever was made for about 8 years (57/65 ish) there does seem to be a lot of games still in circulation.

I spoke to someone yesterday that was at A town this weekend looking for these parts for me as a favor, he saw similar games without the parts I made. I've got the parts made now plus I made a few extra as I expect others may want them. I will complete this game later this year. I put in storage for now as I need to get back to another project that I am forgetting where I was in it's restore.

Thanks for the positive message.

Post edited by SteveinTexas: grammer

#29 5 years ago

Glad to help out Steve. The end result just amazes me! I hope this inspires others to take a closer look at games that at first glance appear to be parts games.
I really get a kick out of seeing all of the restoration threads here. The Singapore restoration was a kick to follow. I never thought that a playfield that was as de-laminated as that one could be salvageable.
Looking forward to seeing your finished game in the fall. Maybe in time for the real World Series?

#30 5 years ago

Thank you Dennis, need to finish the Bally Can Can first. I agree about Steve's Singapore restoration, he just gets in there and gets it done.

#31 5 years ago

Damn nice work Steve!

--Jeff

#32 5 years ago

Jeff,

I appreciate your approval. Jeff if I may ask you a question as I followed your restore of your topic on a batter-up earlier.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/batter-up-1954-williams-deluxe-world-series

I am curious in your batter unit, it appears to be a later one, a C-5161-4 not a C-5161-1.
I had the opposite situation I have a batter unit C-5161-1 that I upgraded to similar to a C-5161-4 by drilling out the unit bat sleeve slightly to accommodate the newer Slugfest bat shaft.

I am putting up an upgrade post this evening on the restore section. I wondered about your bat shaft being customized also. Look at the restore topic later and you will see what I mean, it seems to be a reverse solution that is absolutely necessary to get the correct era bat that you have. Am I correct or thinking too much?

#33 5 years ago

Thanks Steve but i haven't done much yet, im still in the degreasing stage. Hopefully what I've done can help in some small way.

My batter unit is in fact the newer model. From what i can tell it should have been a 5161

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1960/index.html#/18/zoomed

I dont think the bat shaft was customized but im suspicious that the switches were.

Ill take a look at the restore thread and comment there.
and take a look
Next time youre up in Austin feel free to drop by

--Jeff

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