Hi all this is my first post and Phoenix is my first pin, recently bought this machine and have done a few things to it to help make it more reliable, machine was working when I brought it home, when powered up it would go into audit mode, battery holder was corroded but there wasnt visible alkaline damage to the boards or chips, I could advance out of audit mode using the advance button on the coin door and then be able to start and play games, which I did of course,I have recapped the power supply, there is one cap I am waiting on yet though and repinned the molex connector from the transformer to the power supply as well, I do have fuse holders to put in for the bridge rectifier as well.
I understand the board to board connectors can be an issue, i have ordered these as well, just havent arrived yet, I did reflow all the connectors on both boards as well, I also have the caps for sound board as well just havent got to that yet.one of the displays is not working either but I have a replacement coming as well. I played it Sunday afternoon and then went to play it Monday evening but it wont come out of audit mode now, I have since hooked a temporary remote battery holder hoping that would help but it still wont come out, I am going to try to link 2 short videos to show what it is doing, I did receive new game roms from pinballrom.com today and tried replacing the roms with no change, the prom that he sent is the one that replaces both mine and uses IC14, can I just remove both of mine and just use his at IC14 or is there more to it than that. Any help would be appreciated and I have gone through a lot of the information available on this site. Thanks Gerald

Lol 2nd video could have used some editing.

I have done some more reading and testing and have found that the 5101 chip appears to be bad, does anyone have a current part number for Digikey, the William's number is 5a-9017, I have looked on their website but I dont know enough to order the right one, thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks Ken but even with the info you gave me I still cant narrow down the search enough on Digikey to get the right one, anyone else order through Digikey
I use them because they are a much quicker alternative here in Ontario Canada.

Sometimes you just gotta laugh, thanks for the number Ken buts it's not available on the Canadian site.

Joydivision I didnt know that can be done, would you be able to explain how it's done or where I can find the information to do it? Thanks Gerald

Turning the power on and off quickly wont get it out of audit mode, I have tried many times, on the reset instructions it says you need to be in game
Over mode to start the process, I cant get there and when I switch it to manual and press the advance it just advances through the audit numbers
On the master display.

Just to update I have ordered 5101 and socket from Pinballmedic in Ottawa, should be here next week, hopefully that's the cure! I did find out that changing from 2 to 1 proms on the sys 4 should be a plug and play with no jumpers etc, tried it didnt help enough though to make the Phoenix rise from the ashes! I did get the soundboard recapped last though.

Does anyone have a number for Nvram that I could use?

Did some other work tonight zeners and resistors for the high voltage side and new headers, I did the caps last week, waiting for parts stinks!

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Doesnt look good!

Cleaned off, no bridging of solder that I can see, board is a little crispy though between those 2 pins, not sure exactly what I did wrong, any thoughts! Going to bed did enough damage for tonight!

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Thanks for replying barakandl, I am unsure why it is arcing there, I replaced z2, z4 diodes with1n4763, z1, z3 diodes with 1n4730 well as r1 through r6 with proper replacements as well, I thought it would be good maintenance to replace the hv header as well, i wasnt having issues in this area I just thought it would help make the displays last longer as recommended. D7 and d8 diodes were replaced by previous owner, they are the mr500 so I should probably replace those as well, I cleaned up the pcb between pin 1 and 2 and unsoldered the new header just in case I had bridged solder on top, I hadn't so I soldered it back into place and rechecked last night's work, I couldnt find anything wrong so I reconnected the board and checked voltages, I had 89 and 90 on the hv pins and 5 on the 5v pin, so I reconnected the connector and the displays worked, I waited for maybe 2 minutes with no arcing so I turned machine off and reconnected everything else, then turned machine back on it was ok for about 30 seconds then the displays went out and it started arcing again at the underside of the display header again, when I pulled the board this time it was arcing between pin 3 and 4 this time which are the positive and negative hv, I dont know what I have messed up but I triple checked any soldering that I have done and cant find any problem areas, any ideas as to what I may have done would be greatly appreciated, ps I only have 3 of the player displays connected, #4 is not working and I have it disconnected, would that cause the arcing?

I'm am using a solder for electronic work, I wondered if I didnt clean the flux off well enough? I was thinking I havent repinned that connector and maybe there is a lot of resistance in the old one , I'm gonna repin it and see what happens.

Repinned connector and recleaned the board, installed and powers up, displays working, proper voltages and no arcing so far. Still waiting on parts to hopefully fix the audit issue.

Received my order and guess what no 5101, called supplier and he's hoping for next week, I wish he would of told me he didnt have it! I really am hating writing for parts.

Well good news is that I received the chip, installed it in the new socket, installed female side board interconnector , installed flipper kit,
Installed rubber kit, plus another wax job, new cabinet flipper switches, finally able to turn it on and it works, but still have a few gremlins
To work out of the old girl, had a rapid fire right flipper which I found had a bad diode and one of the small wires on the coil had a bad
Connection that I fixed, ohm were now in the 86ish range and 3.6, with the bad being 86 and 1.6. Sadly the coil didn't make it a game
Before it totally quit, lol I get to wait for parts again, I do have some connection issues though, I have had it where the displays go out,
The knocker goes and it's dead, I have to restart the machine which sometimes works and sometimes it doesnt, also when I open and
close the coin door the Gi's flicker, I do have a new board molex connector to solder on to the power supply as well as new diodes I hope helps
But I am thinking I may need to repin a couple connectors.