(Topic ID: 264784)

Willams Bally Start Button Removal / Replacement


By bbddpp

13 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by bbddpp
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 13 days ago

I had to put some good force on it, but finally got my AFM start button pulled out to change the lamp to LED. Now I have two problems.

First off, it's not going back in, either with the original or the new stubby LED. I recall seeing a video somewhere stating these old buttons were a one way ticket out and cannot be replaced. That can't be true can it? It certainly does seem like I'd need hammer force to get it back in (don't worry, won't use a hammer, unless I get really really mad at it.)

The other thing I noticed is that the start button is not lighting. It's the only lamp that doesn't seem to be working in the game and the wiring looks good (everything plugged in) so I can't help but wonder if I just messed something up when putting the force on it to pull it back. Both the LED and the original bulb no longer light up.

Unless there's a way to put these buttons back into place with the existing hardware, I intend to replace both the green (AFM) and yellow (TZ) with a new twist type button which is what I assume are the only ones on the market now.

Anyone have any experience with these suckers?

#2 13 days ago

some have a twist lock type, and others are like pressured and pop back in rather hard.
If it doesn't stay in you might have to replace it.

#3 13 days ago
Quoted from bbddpp:

The other thing I noticed is that the start button is not lighting. It's the only lamp that doesn't seem to be working in the game and the wiring looks good (everything plugged in) so I can't help but wonder if I just messed something up when putting the force on it to pull it back. Both the LED and the original bulb no longer light up.

Original bulb or LED work elsewhere ? Grab a meter - power at the socket ?

Easy to damage the wire into the connector on the lamp lug.

Did you unplug the switch wires and lamp wires and mix them up ? Switch still work ?

The switch/bulb socket come out real hard and snap back in hard. Easier to leave the switch on to get more force when doing this.

LTG : )

#4 13 days ago

Yeah this was definitely not a twist. I finally muscled it out but it doesn't seem to want to go back in there. It's not lighting up away but it does work when manually switched to start the game so functioning, just not lighting up. I have a feeling that per this video I saw that taking out the straight pull type breaks them and makes them impossible to put back in? Little wild...

#5 13 days ago

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. So a bit more info here.

Found another old switch that I tried and got the bulb to power up. Happy about that. Then, while it was switched on, and I was trying to brute force push it back in (wires connected still, this may have been my sin?) the light went out. I saw it START to go out when pushing a bit, backed off, light came back on. Then I gave it a REAL push and still didn't go in, bulb socket them stopped working in the switch for food. I will note I haven't loosened the button from the cabinet at all, didn't see a need to do that as I'm just changing a lamp.

Bulb is not damaged, tests fine in another socket. So, now I am angry, and both switches now will not give light with any bulb. Have I somehow damaged these trying to push the start buttons back in? The video I saw here has me thinking maybe an LED (even the one I am using from comet which looks plenty narrow to me and they sent with the kit) forces the lamp socket out of sync and breaks it when trying to push it in?

I feel silly asking this, as this seems like it should be so simple. Yet here I am now with 2 start button switches with broken lamp sockets.

I'm stumped guys. I feel like if I get a third switch and push it will just do it all over again. Maybe my problem is illustrated in this video, and I need to be modifying the button inside to get it back in???

#6 13 days ago
Quoted from bbddpp:

Yet here I am now with 2 start button switches with broken lamp sockets.

There isn't much in there. That brass spade on the outside goes right to the piece inside that grabs the wires on the base of the wedge shaped bulb.

Look in there. They still look like two pieces of brass sticking up the base of the bulb slides into. Maybe they need to be bent closer together inside the socket, to grab the wires on the base of the bulb better.

LTG : )

#7 13 days ago

I love the video. "The manufacturer must have had a special tool to put the switch/light bulb socket into the body of the switch".

Ummm.................. No. They shoved them in with their fingers/hand. I've been pulling them out and shoving them back in for years. And I never dreamed of taking a big pliers to it to remove the switch/socket part.

Is your LED polarized and you need to turn it 180 degrees to work ?

You could also grab a meter and check continuity of that spade connector to the fins inside the socket. If that is good. Then check the connector, you may have weakened the crimp on the wire.

LTG : )

#8 12 days ago

I was trying to push it back in with all 3 wires connected. Perhaps I need to look at the wiring and not the switch itself. Bulb is still fine. I think you just gave me the courage to push it back in full force. If the bulb breaks it breaks. It’s possible in somehow hurt the wires and not the switch good point especially since both switches aren’t lighting now (but the start function does). So it will be only the wires that power the light socket I need to check.

#9 11 days ago

You guys rock, thanks. All I needed was some elbow grease with the wires off and that sucker went right back home. Appreciate the inspiration.

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