Do not think the epoxy will work for any appreciable time. I would find someone who could TIG or MIG weld it.

+1

Then grind and file it back to shape.

$15 TIG and grind.

Sure sure we know all aboot your Wednesday night plans but what aboot the welding on this part?

Tug and Grind?

Try the JB, how can it hurt? I've seen it used in a lot of places you would never think it would last.

It will probably fall out and jam up some other mech or relay.

Always better to make the proper repair and know it will last forever, rather than always waiting for the crap repair to fail.

You just made my night.

This one was great too!

Vid is always right. It's good to know about the TIG and grind method if I ever need to use it.

Don't believe everything you see on TV.

krazy (resized).jpg

The correct repair would be to replace the part.

With all the jury rigged fixes documented here, a little JB is pretty elegant in comparison. It is remarkably durable nd now was curious how long it would last.

You can also see in the pic there is nothing under the assembly but cabinet.

JB Weld is strong stuff. So is PC-7 and PC-11. They are great for bonding two pieces together. You can use PC-11 to repair under water leaks in horse tanks.

But they are plastic and are not very impact resistant with action such as the constant hammering they would get from that cam clicking on it all the time.

Go find your self a welder.

If it is not possible to replace the part why not try a spacer behind the coil (lugs end) equal to the gap you are trying to bridge. I cannot decipher from the pic but providing the stepper cog slips between the opening that should work.

If it was 1975, I'd just ring up my local Bally distributor and have the part waiting in will-call with the rest of my weekly order.

But in 2018, if PBR does not have it, then a TIG repair might have to do.

And, of course, the TIG repair area could well be harder than the original soft steel. I've welded Italian pop bumper brackets back together that will never break again, ever, lol.

I live close in Snohomish PM me and I can mig it for you.

Chris

Or pack out the bracket holding the coils assembly by a few mm so that the teeth are now missing the slot and landing on metal.

The lazy man in me would just shim the bracket holding the coil. It would move the plate closer to the gear and be a good temp fix til a replacement could be found.

You need armature latch P-7207-4. Flippers.com in Canada has it for a fair price.
https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/armature-latch-p-4166

The one in my Bow and Arrow has the identical slot worn in like yours. I was anxious to replace it but after going through the game I'm not sure it adds much function. My flash motor works when game is running and stops when it isn't. As mentioned it's designed to brake the flash motor on game stop but power gets cut to it anyway and it stops.

The quick and easy way to fix this issue is to add a couple of washers to shim the assembly over just a bit so the teeth are catching the plate at a different point. I had the same issue with mine and that's exactly what I did. Removing it, welding it up and grinding it smooth also works fine.

Steve Young does not have the part, and the shim fix is exactly what he told me to do. He's obviously familiar with this problem with Space Time/Time Zone. He said you'll never play it enough to wear it out like that again. TZ motor (resized).jpg

Adding washers is what I did to Bally's Sky Rocket. Fixed the problem.

+1 on the shim washers.

Sell it to the person on Portland Craigslist that has been looking for one for over a year.

portland.craigslist.org link