Wild Life last ball double bonus not working for player 1

(Topic ID: 229046)

Wild Life last ball double bonus not working for player 1


74 days ago

Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 43 days ago by JMPT
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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sequence chart (resized).jpg
0Wild-Live-Work-11 (resized).jpg
lb (resized).jpg
PB-LB (resized).jpg

#1 74 days ago

The problem is on a 2 player game, the first player doesn’t get double bonus on the last ball, but the second player does.
The LB relay does not kick in for the first player. It works fine with a single player.

I don’t understand the schematics, as shown, the PB switch is naturally closed (circled in blue I'm assuming that it is the problem since the machine works fine with only one player, and PB is the only thing that has changed) , which to me is the good position in order to energize LB, yet if PB is energized i.e. 2 players , that switch would be open?

I am assuming the player unit is in position “8” at that time, maybe it’s not?

Hope I have been clear enough and let me know if you need anything else.
I look forward to your “analysis” in order to learn more about the functioning of these machines.
Till next time, many thanks,

PB-LB (resized).jpg
#2 74 days ago

Are you set to 3 ball or 5 ball? Try switching it to see if any difference. Going by my 4 player Fast Draw, LB (Last ball) is only going to kick off after the final ball of the game so it would be normal for it to not pull in on a 2 player game until end of player 2.

#3 73 days ago

First thing I tried !
Just means 1st player fifth ball doesn't get double bonus, second player does.


#4 72 days ago

Do you have a relay in the relay bank that is tripping to light double bonus when it does work? On 2 player game are you getting the double bonus light on pl 1 but it just isn't scoring, or no light either? Pos. 8 and 9 are for pl 1 and 2, ball 3. Pos 16 and 17 are ditto for ball 5. Not sure if the schematics are meant to show a game started and ready to play for one player or two but I think it is for one.

#5 72 days ago

Also if the only thing different you see between a 1 and 2 player game is PB, check all of the other switches in it besides the one above.

3 weeks later
#6 49 days ago

LB relay = double bonus (on last ball)
After a lot of searching and sleepless mornings thinking about how to solve this, I thought about how schematics are drawn ie ball in shooter lane game turned off.
This could resemble let say, a single player game. I am using a 3 ball game.
I am assuming that the PLAYER UNIT is on 3rd ball at the 8 position (blue line) WH-GR line, you would energize LB because the PB switch is closed, thus giving double bonus.
But If you put a second player you energizing PB relay and open that switch, so there must be another path, or first player would never get double bonus (I think ???).
If that is the case;
My question : Does anyone know which path is used to energize LB, the green via P, motor 4A, motor 4C, or the orange via P2A,P1C, motor 2C, or something else ?
Or maybe I’ve got it completely wrong and it’s something else…

lb (resized).jpg
#7 49 days ago

I agree with You --- everything in post-6 is true - the answer to Your question is: "The green".
In my JPG I drew it "blue" - somewhere there You have the fault --- want to make Yourself an 24Volt-Test-Light - car-lamps (cheap ones of course) are 12Volt --- we put two car-lamps in a line and have the Test-Light. SteveFury shows it here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reading-gottlieb-schematics#post-2634425 .
Make You such an Test-Light and hook-on permanent --- does it ever lights up ? It should light up in a short flash when the Score-Motor turns. Greetings Rolf

0Wild-Live-Work-11 (resized).jpg
#8 49 days ago

on the players unit there are 2 pins with springs that ride against rivets. make sure rivets are clean and small wire that connects the two is not broke.

#9 43 days ago

Thank you!
My local supermarket no longer has car light bulbs, so I had a look with a volt meter set on continuity. Started with the P relay as it was easiest, that was ok. So I looked at the 4C, that was ok also, finally checked 4A, and there found it, it was about open about 5mm so it could never be closed. Bent it back in and all is working ! If I had looked at the motor switch position card, I might have been able to work it out. Hopefully next time…
I include sequence chart anyway.

Thanks again to everyone,

PS any ideas where I can find info on how to fix a "total play meter" ?

sequence chart (resized).jpg
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