(Topic ID: 210376)

Wild Fyre: No score displays, (almost) everything else working

By Necromancyr

3 years ago


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  • 57 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by frunch
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There are 57 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

So another week, another update. Ordered a bunch of parts from Great Plains Electronics and they came in yesterday - so I immediately replaced the caps on the SB-100. Outcome was good - not 100%, but good. The very loud buzz noise that overpowered everything has been replaced by some white noise/staticy background noise but the game sounds are much louder, clearer and very crisp. Overall, a 90% improvement that puts it into "playable" sound from my perspective even if not perfect.

I also tried pulling up the playfield to work on it - there's definitely no prop stick unfortunately. There looks like a metal rail on the right side of the internal body that used to have something there to prop, but...nothing's there now.

I soldiered on and tested the one kicker/solenoid that isn't firing - but I'm not certain how to fix. The switch looks like one of these: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1A-130 and the plastic piece at the end (where the ball hits) is worn down a bit. However, the switch doesn't seem to be 'staying on' - and it seems each kicker hole scores 3 times (i.e., 3 noises) then 'activates'. If I hold the switch down manually, it seems to take a bit of time to kick on and is intermittent. I'm going to check the underside a bit better once I can get the entire playfield out, but from what I could see the switch is definitely closed when a ball is in the hole - so something else is broken/shorting in that path...which doesn't sound fun to figure out. Any ideas on trouble shooting would be appreciated.

#52 3 years ago

Which kicker is it again? Does it register right in switch test?

I forget how Hot Hand was, but on many games you can also slide the back end of the PF out enough to prop it up against the head. It'd probably be worth searching out a prop bar though, I'm sure someone has one lying around they'll sell you

1 week later
#53 3 years ago

zacaj - that was it! So I had some time and did a few of the things I needed to, so getting REALLY close. Some updates:

- Fixed Display! - Replaced a transistor on one display (Q13 to be specific) and it's now functioning correctly. So, all 4 displays working right!
- Found the prop - Yes, it has one. Yes I'm an idiot for not realizing what it was.
- Replaced the capacitors (the two big ones) on the solenoid board, stupidly using the wrong one for one of them (150uF vs 160uF). Put the old one back in and al works fine. (The 150uF resulted in solenoids not fiding).
- Fixed the switch for the one kicker! Seems it was REALLY dirty and once I found the prop, I could hold up the playfield, remove the switch, take a look at it and give it a light sanding on the contacts to fix. So, golden.

Just need to add the battery pack and, mechanically/electronically, the machine is fully working!

So, my next big question is - how do I protect the playfield? Wax? Something else?

#54 3 years ago
Quoted from Necromancyr:

- Replaced the capacitors (the two big ones) on the solenoid board, stupidly using the wrong one for one of them (150uF vs 160uF). Put the old one back in and al works fine. (The 150uF resulted in solenoids not fiding).

That sounds weird... The 160uF cap is for the displays, it shouldn't have anything to do with the solenoids not working, even if you took it out completely. and 150 is close enough to 160 that it shouldn't cause any big issues.

Quoted from Necromancyr:

- Fixed the switch for the one kicker! Seems it was REALLY dirty and once I found the prop, I could hold up the playfield, remove the switch, take a look at it and give it a light sanding on the contacts to fix. So, golden.

Don't sand contacts on SS games. They're gold plated, the sanding will remove it. Most people recommend business cards or cash

Quoted from Necromancyr:

So, my next big question is - how do I protect the playfield? Wax? Something else?

Regardless, use some pure carnuba paste wax. It'll protect it some and make it play a bit better. Unless you see wear happening, I'd leave it at that. Clean with novus #1 or naptha occasionally to prevent dirt build up. If one spot is actively wearing, put a patch of mylar over it. If you want a complete solution, they may make a clear plastic protector for this game that you can just cover the whole playfield with, but I think it's generally overkill for most playfields

#55 3 years ago

Thanks Zacaj, that helps a ton.

No idea with the capacitor - switching it back DEFINITELY fixed it...though...who knows. Maybe I screwed up a connector. It's working now so I'm not messing with it. If and when the cap dies, I have a replacement to try I guess.

And...damn on the sanding. Guessing just use the business card/money to lightly buff the contacts? Only did one so...should be ok (can always change that leaf switch if needed completely).

I'm debating doing a bit of minor refurb to the field first (touch up some black areas, nothing major) and then I'll wax it to keep further damage from occurring. And I've read about the mylar/plastic overlay but many comments seemed negative on them - it seemed overkill if I didn't do a full restore first at least.

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from Necromancyr:

And...damn on the sanding. Guessing just use the business card/money to lightly buff the contacts? Only did one so...should be ok (can always change that leaf switch if needed completely).

As long as it works, there's no problem. But if it stops working again, I'd replace it.

Quoted from Necromancyr:I'm debating doing a bit of minor refurb to the field first (touch up some black areas, nothing major) and then I'll wax it to keep further damage from occurring. And I've read about the mylar/plastic overlay but many comments seemed negative on them - it seemed overkill if I didn't do a full restore first at least.

I'd try just touching up one of the inserts down near the flippers, make sure it holds up with just wax, before going any further.

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from Necromancyr:

No idea with the capacitor - switching it back DEFINITELY fixed it...though...who knows. Maybe I screwed up a connector.

If the problem resurfaces, i would definitely replace/re-flow the male and female connectors on that board. Congrats on all your progress!

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