(Topic ID: 145661)

Why would an EOS not work?

By Dr-Hex

8 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by CactusJack
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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EOS_iec.png
Fliptronic_I_addams.jpg
image.jpeg
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#1 8 years ago

Hey Guys,
Quick question, my father in law has an addams family and the left EOS switch doesn't register. The flipper works just fine (though I assume is still on high voltage when I cradle on that side?) and last time I was there I replaced the entire switch stack and it still doesn't register the EOS switch in the test mode. (and leaves a credit dot) I'm curious what to do from here? I will be heading down to his house for christmas and would like to have a list of things to check, parts ordered etc
I have some basic play field skills but no board work yet...
Any suggestions or help would be great.

#2 8 years ago

Check the other three flipper's EOS switches. Find the broken wire. Solder it on. Fixed.

Look at the switch matrix in your manual. Right hand column are the dedicated switches, flippers and EOS.

LTG : )™

2 weeks later
#3 8 years ago

Hey guys, so the switch is missing a wire. (The others have three and the right lower one only has two) I can't find a broken one, at least on the bottom side. Near ask can tell iris just gone. Where on the boards do the wire insert so I can try tracing it back from that end?

#4 8 years ago

Are the other a part of the daisey chain and that switch is just at the end so it wouldn't have 3 wires? The reason the others have 3 is because that 3rd wire goes to the next switch. Did you do what LTG said?

#5 8 years ago

The three other eos switches have their three wires and they seem to be well attached. I will try resoldering them this afternoon just in case I'm not seeing something.

#6 8 years ago

The black green wire seems to just run straight to the back box and doesn't appear to be broken

#7 8 years ago

what are the colors to the others? What is the three wires to each switch.

#8 8 years ago

don't own an TAF, but wondering if this is different because the game is Fliptronics

#9 8 years ago

So I should be tracing back and resoldering the orange one, correct? And it should run from eos to eos or will it run to other switches?

#10 8 years ago

The right Eos switch only has a solid orange and the black with green. The other eps switches have a different black but also an orange and a peach.

#11 8 years ago

Start with the basics, are they normally open at rest, are they closed when energized, had you cleaned the contacts with cardstock dipped in alcohol.

#12 8 years ago

Tracing back the orange, it's next stop is to the eos of the left flipper ( which works fine) so that connection must be the problem right?

#13 8 years ago

And honestly it shouldn't matter on WPC Fliptronics board. As even if the EOS isn't closed the computer does it for you as added protection. So take your time with this. Orange by itself is straight switch ground.

Orange/Grey = Upper left Flipper hold
Black/Blue = Upper left Power

Orange/Violet Upper right hold
Black/Yellow Upper right power

orange/blue Lower left hold
blue/gray lower left power

orange/green lower right hold
blue/violet lower right power

blue/violet right flipper button
blue/grey left flipper button
black/yellow right flipper botton
black/blue left flipper button
orange Switch ground

Black/green Right Flipper Switch
Black/Blue Left Flipper switch
Black/Violet Upper right flipper switch
Black/Grey Upper left flipper switch
Orange is switch ground.

#14 8 years ago

So the eos switch on the right has the black green and an orange. The black green runs back to the box and the orange runs to the next switch (left eos switch). The right flipper works ie gets the high power side but the eos never engages...
The other eos switches work fine and have three wires ... But I think the third one is just daisy chaining the ground to the next switch?

#15 8 years ago

Check continuity on the wire from switch to back box plug. It might look OK and seems connected but could be broken somewhere inside the wire sleeving. Trace it with buzz starting from the the plug at the backbox to the EOS from point to point. Untill it shows a fault. Also check the EOS itself and see if it registers open and closed on buzz tone.

Does it have a diode. And if it does is it good.

#16 8 years ago

Where does the black and green wire connect to the board, or where do I look that info up?

#17 8 years ago

No diode

#18 8 years ago

So it must do with the black green wire as I am not getting any voltage when I measure it to ground. Vs. 11.6 volts at the other eos switches

#19 8 years ago

Check the connector on the fliptronics board in the backbox.

I had a flaky EOS switch on my TAF and that connector had gone bad/loose. Had to re-pin it and works perfectly now.

RussM

#20 8 years ago

Yeah is looking like more of a board issue? Able to get continuity down the black green wire. From female pin at j806 to the insertion at the eos. Have conniuity from ground rt eos to lt eos. Should I try to re pin the connector next - would have to order parts as beyond what I am use to...
If I pull the black green from the female and twist it around the male price directly, that should tell me if it is a connector issue, correct?

#21 8 years ago

Is there a way to test if the male pin at j806 is getting voltage? What do I ground to?

#22 8 years ago

Backplane should be common ground for everything in the backbox.

RM

#23 8 years ago

So the male pin at j806 for the black green wire is only reading 0.30 volts where the others are reading 11-6 volts. Now what?

#24 8 years ago

So I pulled the board to look for why the first pin at j806 wasn't getting power and it looks like it has been previously worked on. Looks like it got smoked once and then some one soldered (butchered) a few itp102's and then a few wires to try and replace the traces?
The rest of the machine works ie all the other flippers and eos switches. Should I keep trying or cut my losses and just put it back together? I'm just worried about about having high voltage through the coil when I cradle on that side. Don't want to fry a coil. Not really sure how much of risk that is or how long it would take.

image_1.jpegimage_1.jpeg

image.jpegimage.jpeg

#25 8 years ago

I guess another question would be if I can just replace the entire board? Anyone know if there are replacements around?

#27 8 years ago

Thanks ltg even found a Canadian distributor. Any idea why that last pin wouldn't be getting power when all the others are?

#28 8 years ago
Quoted from Dr-Hex:

Any idea why that last pin wouldn't be getting power when all the others are?

Something's borked.

LTG : )™

#29 8 years ago

The components in red circles are the first to suspect, although it is quite rare that they blow.
Fliptronic I addams.jpgFliptronic I addams.jpg

#30 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Something's borked.
LTG : )™

NICE!

#31 8 years ago

D9 is "supposed" to protect the circuit but they can still blow if someone happened to feed the +50V (+73VDC) to it.

Pull the schematic and check continuity from device to device as shown above (nice graphic ZaZa!).

I hope you understand what others have said. With Fliptronic, the function of the EOS switch is also performed within software timing loops so if an EOS switch stops responding, the software takes over and uses default time constants to switch from high power kick to hold only power. There is little chance of it staying on high power except during excessive monkey flipping by amateurs.

#32 8 years ago

I thought the EOS on a Fliptronics game also serves to keep the flipper from dropping (by briefly providing high voltage) if a fast ball hits the bat.

#33 8 years ago

logic diagram: looks familiar
EOS iec.pngEOS iec.png

#34 8 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

I thought the EOS on a Fliptronics game also serves to keep the flipper from dropping (by briefly providing high voltage) if a fast ball hits the bat.

Yes. That is correct. But the OP was worried about the drive logic being stuck on high current drive all the time. So I wanted to insure them it was not an issue.

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