I could really use some help at this stage. I want all new backbox info cards (see photos)

The old ones are beat up and yellowed. I am hoping someone has these already made (even if not for Viking but a similar era Bally as the files would be easier to modify than starting form scratch)

Anyone have any ideas or assistance?

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AWESOME!

I looked all over that website!

Any idea on if I can message the owner of that sight and send them scans of the missing cards/ will they use them to remake new ones?

Will do mark

Thanks. That looks great!

I have zero computer skills unfortunately and don't have gimp or photo shop.

always a 1 upper in the group.

Must have been nice to have an already drilled and dimpled pf.

Please refrain from posting photos in this thread of your Viking restoration. The entire point was to document a single restoration.

thanks for the tip.
It is Hilton BTW. Milton is Clay's pet name for me. I cant tell you why he gave it to me, but I can tell you he cried at the end of the ordeal.

thanks

Yeah we have one of those Fedex/kinkos places just around the corner. cheers

nope, not touchy at all.

I make these restoration threads as a way to document my restoration and share with others (hopefully they learn from what I do and also my mistakes so we all get better as we go). I see no reason for anyone to come blast multiple pics in here of their restoration. Comes off as a 1-upper to me. There is a time and a place. This thread is not the place to start posting multiple photos of other Viking restorations. I am proud of the work I do and even though I have more to learn, I dont appreciate someone coming in my thread to show off how much nicer their restoration looks.

The user could have simply posted a single photo of his spinner or not even posted at all and instead just send me a message to request new decals.

I hope you can see the difference Bryan.

any guy that puts that much work into a Viking is all good in my book!

that is the goofy thing about using only text as communication. Intent is hard to read.

Either way, this issue is over and the poster appologized/clarified their intent.

Making headway on cabinent prep and base coat.

Sorry, not a whole lot of picture taking at this stage. Mainly because the garage area for prep gets super dusty so i leave the camera inside and the paint booth I made means there is paint so again camera stays inside. I work and then dont document.

Lessons learned in cab work thus far.

1. It is nearly impossible to get a perfectly prepped and super smooth cab with wood grain gone. I have prepped and sanded back 3 x now as I have not been happy once I get the first coat of base on and realize I need more bondo/glaze.

I think I am finally there and have a decent 1st coat of base on and just waiting 2 days before the enxt coat.

2. Rattle can REALLY does require atleast 48hrs between coats to recoat/top coat. I learned this the hard way and tried to shoot a final top coat on the light board after ~30 hours. It turned to major crackle finish and meant I needed to sand all the way back down to wood and start over. What a mess!!! I am now waiting over 48hrs between coats on everything.

Luckily I have the light board done now and will be able to start on reassembly on it in the next day or 2, which is nice as it gives me things to do while waiting on cab coats to dry out.

Picked up powder stuff yesterday. Looks nice. It is not the exact look I was striving for, but that is the risk of trying out a new powdercoat/local guy. He does nice work and is well priced but he is not really an artist and more of a get it done guy. I will use him in the future for standard stuff, but nothing I want to get crazy with. I will continue the hunt for a more artistic guy that is willing to put forth the effort and experiment.

light board start

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stripped, painted (6 coats cause it crinkled after #3 due to not enough time between coats so I sanded down and started over.)

My mistake... learn from it when you do one

All new sockets. Ground braid swapped out and man I really like it better this way.

so bright and white!

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I often draw silly little maps just to make stuff easier for me to put back together without having to look at photos.

here is an example

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Just got done putting what should be the final base coat on the cab (fingers crossed).

I will be waiting 4 days not before the next coat goes down (cant risk crinkle when spraying the cab since decals form pinball pimp are 1 time use)

Here is the cab design I am shooting towards. It wont be exact but you get the idea.

Among car buddies we would call this 'murdering' out the game.

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Thanks for the tip. The issue I had with the light board is the paint just kept soaking into the grain of the plywood. I did like you said with 2 light and then one heavy. Then 2 days later i put on a top coat to try and cover the remaining grain effect/seapage (can said to either top coat 10-60 min or 48 hours later) and that is when I got the crinkle. Sanded down the crinkle after 2 more days, then waited another day and did 2 top coats to finally get where I was happy.

How long to you wait between layers on a stencil job?
I finished the last base coat today and am thinking 4 days minimum before I stencil and do the red.

Do you put on the stencil and then light and (220?) the area that will be getting paint to help give it some traction?

thanks for any tips!

thanks doug.

Should I use a grey primer over the black as a base before the red (that will be the next color)?

Just to make sure I have this right:
1. Let base dry for a while (I am planning 4 days)
2. Apply stencil and pull mask
3. Scotchbrite the areas to be painted (which specific color/pad is best?) and tack clotch
4. Spray a light colored base and let dry for ??? min
5. Spray a couple light coats of red and then a heavier top coat and let set for ??? min
6. pull stencil

Curious on the timing of things as the pinball pimp instructions seems t show the quicker you pull stencil post spray, then better

thanks Doug! I really appreciate the tips!

Surprised not to get any comments about my non-traditional color combination.

Maybe everyone hates it but under the threat of the purge everyone is being nice and just not saying anything?

coin door mostly back together

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a bit of a delay in your regular scheduled program while I let the base cab dry a bit more and I was a bit busy with Aliens this past week.

Got around to the first stencil layer today.

Not perfect but also not too shabby for my first attempt at this.

I will now let this dry till next weekend before the final stencil layer is done.

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looking for advice from those with experience...

will purple cover the red? or do I need to laydown more grey primer before doing the purple last coat?

also, should I lightly knock down the edges on the red before doing the purple? What is best method to safely knock down? I assume this would also then require a top clear coat after all done with colors; tips on top coat to use?

any advice form those with more knowledge than I?

thanks doug!

thanks eh97ac!

much appreciated

Everybody likes head

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