(Topic ID: 178803)

Why Not? A Viking Restoration (almost done)


By Whysnow

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 217 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MikeS
  • Topic is favorited by 31 Pinsiders

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There are 217 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 5.
#101 2 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

That's a big ass tumbler.

lol. yup. Can fit 2 flipper mechs in it I like it because of that and it is VERY quite. The dogs dont like the vibratory so this works better.

I ran out of flitz so am using some turtle wax metal polish.

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#102 2 years ago

Whats up with the Williams flippers?

#103 2 years ago
#104 2 years ago

I totally get the upgrade thing. I have them in Gorgar and Firepower I just never thought about putting them in a Bally.

#105 2 years ago

Of course, just switching to the previous generation of Bally flipper assembly would be cheaper and simpler Just need two plungers and links, 2 return springs, a left and right lever arm and that is it. Started doing this change to my classic Bally games back about 12 years ago on the advice of Duncan Brown, nary a problem with this change in dozens of pins.

#106 2 years ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

Of course, just switching to the previous generation of Bally flipper assembly would be cheaper and simpler Just need two plungers and links, 2 return springs, a left and right lever arm and that is it. Started doing this change to my classic Bally games back about 12 years ago on the advice of Duncan Brown, nary a problem with this change in dozens of pins.

yeah, I know. Just felt like upgrading to this style and give it a shot.

#107 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I ran out of flitz so am using some turtle wax metal polish.

Have you noticed any difference with that stuff? Flitz all day for me and I've never tried anything else.

#108 2 years ago

Looking good Hilton. Viking is a great game. Keep up the good work.

#109 2 years ago

Looks good!!! Only ever played one Viking and while it had a clear coated playfield and had been restored, the flippers were so weak that you couldn't hit much. Hope I can play a better example sometime.

#110 2 years ago
Quoted from LoveNeverDiesGuy:

Have you noticed any difference with that stuff? Flitz all day for me and I've never tried anything else.

not much difference but I have ordered some more flitz. This was just something to try so I could keep moving.
I think flitz helps with a slightly better sheen on the metal/ maybe just a little more cut?

#111 2 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

Looking good Hilton. Viking is a great game. Keep up the good work.

thanks buddy. Chuggin along so I can hopefully have it ready for MGC.

#112 2 years ago
Quoted from Ronnie1114:

Looks good!!! Only ever played one Viking and while it had a clear coated playfield and had been restored, the flippers were so weak that you couldn't hit much. Hope I can play a better example sometime.

come to MGC and play this one

#113 2 years ago

The fun part has come. Wiring harness comes off tonight and gets cleaned.

A few tips follow.

1. Wiring harness has memory. use it to your advantage when re wiring stuff. I like to use a big sheet of cardboard to transport to the tub and lay on once clean (after blowing out with air) to dry. Keeping things in there general position makes things easier on reassembly.

2. Zip tie leaf stacks together.

3. take LOTS of photos, but also just spend the extra 30 min to label all the wires on controlled lamps. Trust me that it is really nice to do the work up front rather than not be sure what color a wire is in a photo.

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#114 2 years ago

I dont know why ANYONE would not take the time to clean a wiring harness when doing a swap. Honestly it takes only a little extra effort and the amount of funk you remove from it is AMAZING.

The joy of working on the back end with clean hands and easy soldering combined with how clean the game will stay for so long afterwards is well worth the effort. Just trust me on this one if you are considering it.

For cleaner I love LAs Totally Awesome Orange Oxygen. I grab it at the dollar store for a buck and it really works AWESOME!

#115 2 years ago

I have a fully restored Viking that we brought back from the dead, it was left out side in the rain, backglass was still mint, found a NOS Playfield and now she's gorgeous, a great game, hard to see she's in the corner,

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#116 2 years ago

Just checking, is this documentation actually worth it to people?

I know I am no BK or HEP, but not sure if this is valuable and honestly it takes extra time so if it is not then no reason to do it.

If it is then let me nkow if there are other things you want to see. I am not great at remembering to document but happy to do so to add value content.

#117 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Just checking, is this documentation actually worth it to people?
I know I am no BK or HEP, but not sure if this is valuable and honestly it takes extra time so if it is not then no reason to do it.
If it is then let me nkow if there are other things you want to see. I am not great at remembering to document but happy to do so to add value content.

I think people purely enjoy seeing this. I also think it helps encourage others that may still be on the fence about tackling something like this. It's great seeing something brought back to life.

#118 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Just checking, is this documentation actually worth it to people?
I know I am no BK or HEP, but not sure if this is valuable and honestly it takes extra time so if it is not then no reason to do it.
If it is then let me nkow if there are other things you want to see. I am not great at remembering to document but happy to do so to add value content.

I appreciate the documentation and have learned a few things along the way from you.-like using zip ties to keep switches together vs. electrical tape which I have typically used. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see it when it's done!

#119 2 years ago

This thread is cool. Keep up the good work & please continue with the updates.

#120 2 years ago

Indeed. I always pick something up from these restore threads. Everyone has different ideas, some good, some not so good, but all are appreciated.

#121 2 years ago

I read all the resto threads like this one. Picked up many tips/techniques along the way, plus it's cool to watch an old pin come back to life.

#122 2 years ago

ok, thanks for the feedback.

I will keep at it. If there is anything in particular that people want to see then just ask. If there is anything you want to see in more detail, then also ask. I never know what people find interesting or worth while.

#123 2 years ago

I'm glad to have this info, thanks for documenting everything.

Jody

#124 2 years ago

With the help of a great pinsider, we were able to get new spinner decals professionally made.

I must note that a friend in MN was kind enough to make me a hand done one. I then got a message from someone very capable and willing to work together to make a professional done example. I found a local company able to do 3mil vinyl with a gloss laminated on top of that and get the entire thing kiss cut.

I figured no reason to only print 2 sets so we got a sheet made. I obviously cant sell these since they are licensed, but I am happy to help out other viking owners if you just cover shipping costs.

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#125 2 years ago

sorry for the fuzzy photos. My old camera is well... old. They look crisp and super nice in person.

#126 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I have been keeping my thumblers busy with mechs.

Do you fill your tumbler with media then or how does that type of tumbler work with pinball parts?

#127 2 years ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

Do you fill your tumbler with media then or how does that type of tumbler work with pinball parts?

same is a vibratory.

walnut, some flitz, add some parts (not too many), and let her run.

#128 2 years ago

I am here just working away. It does not appear as much is done, but a tone of work on the bottom side.
The entire harness is cleaned, dried (blown out with compressor), left out to dry a few more days, and now on the new pf.
It takes a long time but all mechs have to be aligned just right and holes drilled (man it sure would have been nice to have dimples).

I now have all the bottom drilled and all the switch and light matrix done. All new light sockets which should be nice. I take my time and reroute wires to be cleaner and make sure nothing is shorting out. I take extra time to heat shrink on pop lights and other areas where things are tight.

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#129 2 years ago

for flipper mechs you want to make sure the bushing is dead nuts center of the hole. Easy trick is to wrap electrical tape around the bushing and then it self centers. Be SURE not to stretch the tape when doing this. You want an even distance.

New flipper mechs can be aligned in any manner/ orientation. Just be sure the correct one on the correct side. Also be careful there are no shorts. Things are REALLY tight and MANY areas where you could easily short stuff out.

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#130 2 years ago

nice and centered; just 4 screws in the photo as I was checking alignment still. All 8 will go in later.

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#131 2 years ago

Now I am just working mech by mech on cleaning, tumbling, rebuilding.

I will soon flip over to working on the cabinet. My first stencil job.

#132 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Now I am just working mech by mech on cleaning, tumbling, rebuilding.
I will soon flip over to working on the cabinet. My first stencil job.

If you are using Pinpimp stencils no worries. Good product!

#133 2 years ago

I can't get past the pink coil wrappers.

#134 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I can't get past the pink coil wrappers.

Coils are not done, but I may just make them all pink for you BK

this is how the williams mechs came from Pblife. I was very surprised they were pink labels, but that was the availability.

#135 2 years ago
Quoted from dasvis:

If you are using Pinpimp stencils no worries. Good product!

I am using pinball pimp stencils.

#136 2 years ago

Looks so much neater without the ground braid and staples. Could you use 1-terminal bases and solder the wire to the bracket, or I assume that was the whole point of using 2-terminal bases?

#137 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Looks so much neater without the ground braid and staples. Could you use 1-terminal bases and solder the wire to the bracket, or I assume that was the whole point of using 2-terminal bases?

Thanks. I am very happy with the choice to use 2 lug sockets and the lack of ground braid. I will repeat this for all future early ss restorations.

you could use the standard 1 lug and solder to bracket but this is cleaner and easier since the bracket is thinker (takes more heat and also acts as a heat sink.)

#138 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Thanks. I am very happy with the choice to use 2 lug sockets and the lack of ground braid. I will repeat this for all future early ss restorations.
you could use the standard 1 lug and solder to bracket but this is cleaner and easier since the bracket is thinker (takes more heat and also acts as a heat sink.)

Should have also asked before, what gauge wire are you using for this?

#139 2 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Should have also asked before, what gauge wire are you using for this?

18 gauge.

Same as the rest of the game. If you hunt on amazon you can find nice little kits of 18 gauge braided (dont get solid core) where you can buy 8 or 12 colors (I think it is important to use color correct) in 25 or 50ft rolls. It is very handy to have and frech new wire is a joy to solder with.

control wire is 22 gauge, but no reason not to use 18 gauge for everything I did with common ground.

#140 2 years ago

I am here. Just slowly working at picking away on rebuilding mechs.

I am sure a vibratory tumbler is quicker, but i still like the size and quietness of mine.

Pop mech pre-tumble and post tumble

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#141 2 years ago

Here is a trick I learn and use regularly. Order coil sleeves in bulk a long length.

Then use a small copper pipe cutter to cut to size.
tip, use an old plunger inside the sleeve to make it rigid and easy to cut.
tip, be sure to sane the cut end a little to deburr it (right is deburred).

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#142 2 years ago

just down to rebuilding the drop target mechs and then the bottom side will be done!

Hope to finish it up the drops by Friday. Busy on Wed with local tournament/meet up so hopefully 1 mech on thurs and 1 on Fri.

Then onto cabinet tear down if I get a weekend day.

#143 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Pop mech pre-tumble and post tumble

Do you think the tumbler stripped off all the protective zinc plating?

-mof

#144 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Do you think the tumbler stripped off all the protective zinc plating?

-mof

nope, just dull from what i can tell.

do you think it has? Should I re-plate these? or spray a thin clear to protect?

I have never had rust appear on any previous restorations with tumbled parts so I assume the zinc coating is still intact, just knocked down? granted, this is the oldest game I will have restored and the coating is not the same as WPC stuff I have done.

If anyone with experience wants to shime in, please let me know.

#145 2 years ago

I had a problem with mine when I switched the flipper bushings. They were not long enough so the flipper was rubbing on the PF. I had to put the originals back in and could see that they were just a tiny bit bigger than the replacements. Your notes on attention to rebuilding flippers is dead one.

And I need a set of those decals.

#146 2 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

And I need a set of those decals

spinner decals? If so, I have a few left.

#147 2 years ago

Bottom side is all done now and took the pf and put it in the back room while I start working on the cab prep.

1 thing I forgot to mention earlier is some mechs I opted to do connectors to make for ease of removal later on if needed. Since this game is going to MGC it is Murphys law that a drop target will bust while at the show.

This is a simple way to be able to remove the entire mech in the future. Crappy pic but you get the idea. this is something I stole from Gottlieb. They did some VERY smart things back in the day and I find that I like to adapt their thinking in ways when doing a restore.

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#148 2 years ago

Main cab is all stripped and will hopefully be getting some good weather this week so I can make some headway.

(I do sanding and painting in the garage but only heat a portion of the work space so the possible 50deg temps will be a big help this week.)

One tip for those still learning like myself. I use a point and shoot olympus 1030sw camera to take lots of photos. A big help is I also shoot some video as I tear down. You can then play back the video frame by frame when reassembling. It is a great way to just quickly get tons of footage from all sorts of angles and has saved me in the past when I forget exactly how something goes .

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#149 2 years ago

Did not make as much progress as I would have liked this weekend, but i did bick up a vector and a jpist yesterday

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#150 2 years ago

backbox all stripped out and light board stripped out.

Tempting to cut corners at this stage and not pull apart the light board to just make it more white essentially... but dont do that. Remind yourself that you are OCD and want better than new. (also, you want to replace the light sockets anyway and would be pissed at yourself once all done if you skipped the light board)

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