(Topic ID: 178803)

Why Not? A Viking Restoration (almost done)


By Whysnow

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 217 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by MikeS
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 98 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

image (resized).jpeg
P3260248 (resized).JPG
P3260243 (resized).JPG
P3260240 (resized).JPG
P3260247 (resized).JPG
P3260249 (resized).JPG
P3260244 (resized).JPG
P3260234 (resized).JPG
P3260246 (resized).JPG
P3260245 (resized).JPG
P3260238 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpeg
P3110285 (resized).JPG
image (resized).jpeg

There are 217 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.
13
#1 2 years ago

I have been asked to share my current project on here. I going to ask up front that you please be respectful with your comments. I am far from a pro like some of the other guys here, but I learn and adapt new things for each game I work on. This will be by far my most challenging project to date, but I honestly am SUPER excited to be picking away at it and bringing this game back to life.

I will try my best to keep up with this but documenting can be a real pain and honestly most photos I take are for me to do things and not really so much for documenting.

I will also compile costs as I go and share when I get the chance as I track it and honestly I will never sell this game and will have way more into it than it will ever be worth.

Base game is a non working Viking. I bought it in a combo deal with a Bally Mystic. The Viking was valued at $600. Game was sold as not working and pretty rough but has a primo backglass and largely complete.

Pictures of the starting PF for now.

P1140002 (resized).JPG

#2 2 years ago

I picked the game up 9 months ago from MN when I went up for a Phish concert. I immediately started sourcing parts and it took about 6 months to get what I needed.

#1 and most important was a restorable NOS pf. It had a few issues but after a $700 touchup and clearcoat job from Neo it is ready to rock.

You will notice right away that the pf is not drilled or dimpled except for the major holes. Uggh, talk about challenging...

It is a beauty, but will add significant work.

P1170050 (resized).JPG

P1170051 (resized).JPG

P1170048 (resized).JPG

P1170049 (resized).JPG

#3 2 years ago

Running total:
Base game $600
Traded a restorable Congo pf for the base Viking NOS pf $500 value
Clearcoat job $700

$1800 in and just getting started, lol.

I actually started off by getting the base game running. Had a little batter damage and needed the bridge rectifier board replaced and all connectors repinned

There goes another $90

total so far: $1890

#4 2 years ago

Love my Viking! Following this thread. Thanks for documenting!

#5 2 years ago

To give you a quick idea of the extra work that goes into a base pf without drill/dimple.
You have to measure out all the holes 5 times, make them and drill once.

Start with this.

P1170045 (resized).JPG

#6 2 years ago

and this

P1170046 (resized).JPG

#7 2 years ago

to go to this.

That took 90 minutes alone for that small section

P1170047 (resized).JPG

#8 2 years ago

The playfield is sweet. Was it an NOS that needed slight touch ups and clear coat?

That playfield is a start to a very pretty game. Show the back glass also. Looking forward to seeing this done.

#9 2 years ago

I just finished my Viking restore, so looking forward to this thread and seeing how Hilton's compares. Sure his will be a better as he is more disciplined than I am.

Also had Neo do the pf and with new parts and a full clean, it's amazing how nice the thing looks. Ran into some problems with the boards Hilton, so make sure you follow the grounding mods on these boards. And if you change the displays to LEDs, you can pull the HV fuse to make it safer back there to work around it.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

The playfield is sweet. Was it an NOS that needed slight touch ups and clear coat?
That playfield is a start to a very pretty game. Show the back glass also. Looking forward to seeing this done.

I will get to backglass pics as things progress. For now the focus will be pretty boring as I pick away on the top side measuring and hole drilling. This is a time consuming part and need precise measurement.

Quoted from Methos:

Ran into some problems with the boards Hilton, so make sure you follow the grounding mods on these boards.

what are the recommended grounding mods? I am honestly thinking of going 100% altek. I want to do LEDs for all lights so the alltek lamp board seems like the best way. The current MPU has passablie repair for now but honestly I plan to bring this to MGC if it is done in time and I doubt it would hold up to the full weekend of play so might as well just do the full set.

I have the 7 digit displays to put in, just arrived today

#11 2 years ago

Use either tracing paper or wax paper to mark your holes.

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from bam10:

Use either tracing paper or wax paper to mark your holes.

Yes, I use tracing paper, but measuring is key also as things are not 100% spot on with current holes on the NOS pf. I have found to be precise and make sure the game flows great, I will be making subtle adjustments.

#13 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

what are the recommended grounding mods? I am honestly thinking of going 100% altek. I want to do LEDs for all lights so the alltek lamp board seems like the best way. The current MPU has passablie repair for now but honestly I plan to bring this to MGC if it is done in time and I doubt it would hold up to the full weekend of play so might as well just do the full set.
I have the 7 digit displays to put in, just arrived today

I found them on both Clay's and Pinwiki documentation. There aren't too many. Great choice on converting to the 7 digit ones. I was a cheap ass and just replaced the six digit ones.

#14 2 years ago

I got 1 more small section done tonight.

P1170055 (resized).JPG

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Yes, I use tracing paper, but measuring is key also as things are not 100% spot on with current holes on the NOS pf. I have found to be precise and make sure the game flows great, I will be making subtle adjustments.

Even when its dimpled you need to do some measuring. I just wanted to make sure you knew that trick to help you.

#16 2 years ago

and then spent some time with the needle files cleaning out the pop bumper holes so parts will fit and also cleaning out extra clearcoat from star rollover.

tedious task but needs to be done.

P1170052 (resized).JPG

P1170053 (resized).JPG

P1170054 (resized).JPG

#17 2 years ago

waiting on some parts so tonight I took apart the coin door and started to prep parts which will be heading off for powder coat.

Anyone ever powder a Bally door? Any tips?
Should I not do the coin reject button or start game button?
What about the hinge that hold the front coin assembly on the door?
What about the hinge that hold the door on the frame?

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

waiting on some parts so tonight I took apart the coin door and started to prep parts which will be heading off for powder coat.
Anyone ever powder a Bally door? Any tips?
Should I not do the coin reject button or start game button?
What about the hinge that hold the front coin assembly on the door?
What about the hinge that hold the door on the frame?

I did it all on the coin door for my Flash Gordon. Detailed pics start on post 154 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-flash-gordon-reimagined/page/4#post-3499606

IMG_0792 (resized).JPG

#19 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

to go to this.
That took 90 minutes alone for that small section

Are you sure you want to spend this kind of time on the drilling? I had a similar KISS playfield that was undrilled with no holes and no dimples. I took the old playfield, stripped it and placed the old one on top of the other. I had to use a few different bit sizes, but it took me less than an hour to do the whole thing. Including dimpling, I think I drilled 129 holes. It turned out great. Of course, the old beatup KISS playfield was destroyed in the process. Just another way of doing it.

I have done a couple of Viking restorations. As Bally playfield swaps go, it is one of the easier ones.

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

the old beatup KISS playfield was destroyed in the process

Viking pfs dont seem to be very common, hence why I want this one to be salvageable.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

I did it all on the coin door for my Flash Gordon. Detailed pics start on post 154 https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-flash-gordon-reimagined/page/4#post-3499606

thx

so any issues with tolerances on hinges, start or coin reject buttons?

I will be sending stuff off to powder, so I assume I just need to tell them to prep and plug all screw holes?
Anything else I should instruct them to do/no do?

#22 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

thx
so any issues with tolerances on hinges, start or coin reject buttons?
I will be sending stuff off to powder, so I assume I just need to tell them to prep and plug all screw holes?
Anything else I should instruct them to do/no do?

No issue with tolerances at all. Everything went back together fine. The hinge will be seized due to the paint flowing into the holes and sticking to the hinge rod. I took an old side rail and clamped it and the straight side of the hinge in a vice and slowly and evenly pushed the other side back and forth; being carful not to bend the hinge out of shape. With minimal pressure, the hinge freed itself and swung freely. On the inside (you'll see in my pictures) I didn't coat the coin mech locking tab because it's rivited and also the mech bracket itself due to the copper mechanism at the bottom of each one. Other than that, like you said, be sure they plug all the threaded holes. There's a ton of them. The end result is well worth it imo. I'm surprised it isn't done more frequently.

#23 2 years ago

great tips and really appreciated.

I am going to try a new local place so a bit nervous.

#24 2 years ago

Will be following this one closely as I love seeing these old Bally games get the full restore treatment! Just got me up if you have any more questions as I've been through it a couple times now. Going to be amazing once your done with it!

#25 2 years ago

Thanks Mike.

Still in the nervous I have jumped in this deep phase on this one. Every drill on the new pf is nerve wracking.

Taking all the parts to the local powder coater on Monday. Nervous about that also.

A fun job to tackle but expecting it to get a bit more fun once I get a bit further. I have some fun ideas for powder coat so hoping thise can get pulled off.

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Should I not do the coin reject button or start game button?
What about the hinge that hold the front coin assembly on the door?

Polish that stuff with the original stainless.
Do the coin bezels (the metal parts that hold in the plastic inserts) black.

That way you have some contrast. stainless door trim, Black door, stainless start button bezel, black coin bezels

Then you need black legs too..

Maybe leave the side rails and lock-down stainless if they polish up nice.

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

Polish that stuff with the original stainless.
Do the coin bezels (the metal parts that hold in the plastic inserts) black.
That way you have some contrast. stainless door trim, Black door, stainless start button bezel, black coin bezels
Then you need black legs too..
Maybe leave the side rails and lock-down stainless if they polish up nice.

wont be visible stainless left on the game, but appreciate the input. I was more so concerned about tolerances and fitmit post powder.
I do have some ideas for contrast but need to see what the capabilities of the new local powder guy are.

#28 2 years ago

you can do all powder in different colors like this.

south park (resized).jpg

#29 2 years ago

but, black/red or red/yellow..

#30 2 years ago

not a fan of that look, but appreciate the thoughts.

#31 2 years ago

I would probably replace all of the light sockets on the PF as well. Those old ones suck big time.

#32 2 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

I would probably replace all of the light sockets on the PF as well. Those old ones suck big time.

yup, I am replacing 100% of light sockets in the entire game.

#33 2 years ago

You don't have to spend the big money on alltek boards...

I usually start with the rectifier board: I get a new pinhead red one from PBR.
Because it's easier to swap than pull and rebuild.
I rebuild the solenoid driver per Vid's guide.
The original lamp board can be upgraded with resistors on the back to function exactly like an alltek and only costs about $1. It doesn't look as pretty, but you never see it. (Pic)
I only use the alltek MPU to troubleshoot. If your original is in good shape, it will work just fine.
Then of course repin all the connectors.

IMG_1735 (resized).JPG

#34 2 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

I rebuild the solenoid driver per Vid's guide.

link for this? thanks

#35 2 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-collected

Here's all of them. The bally one for driver boards is in there.

#36 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I picked the game up 9 months ago from MN when I went up for a Phish concert.

Thank goodness that something good finally came out of anyone attending a Phish concert!

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from vdojaq:

Thank goodness that something good finally came out of anyone attending a Phish concert!

please refer to the first post

Quoted from Whysnow:

I going to ask up front that you please be respectful with your comments.

#38 2 years ago

Did not grab a photo last night but I have the coin door completely stripped and all parts ready for taking to the powder coat guy next week.

I am planning on doing the following parts in powder:
Coin door and frame
Shooter housing
Shoot rod pull/handle
side rails (new)
legs
Lock down bar
H channel that holds at back of cab for pf glass

It there anything else I am missing?
Thought about doing the service prop bar also just for fun.
Thought about doing the lift channel for backglass but guessing the glass would not fit in it due to tight tolegances already, so that will stay as chrome?

#39 2 years ago
Quoted from vdojaq:

Thank goodness that something good finally came out of anyone attending a Phish concert!

HAHAHAH. I mean take that back!
Look at this kid, he is "something good"
http://theconcourse.deadspin.com/young-man-enjoys-phish-concert-1790616431

#40 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

please refer to the first post

Oh c'mon, I am 100% respectful of your restoration process!

#41 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

HAHAHAH. I mean take that back!
Look at this kid, he is "something good"
http://theconcourse.deadspin.com/young-man-enjoys-phish-concert-1790616431

And I remember my 1st beer too!

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Did not grab a photo last night but I have the coin door completely stripped and all parts ready for taking to the powder coat guy next week.
I am planning on doing the following parts in powder:
Coin door and frame
Shooter housing
Shoot rod pull/handle
side rails (new)
legs
Lock down bar
H channel that holds at back of cab for pf glass
It there anything else I am missing?
Thought about doing the service prop bar also just for fun.
Thought about doing the lift channel for backglass but guessing the glass would not fit in it due to tight tolegances already, so that will stay as chrome?

Lift channel works powder coated. I did mine.

#43 2 years ago
Quoted from Skins:

Lift channel works powder coated. I did mine.

thanks for the tip! much appreciated!

#44 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

please refer to the first post

Kind of hypocritical of you, given how you act in other's threads, and how it was clearly a JOKE. You should relax and take yourself a little less seriously.

On topic, keep in mind when you're powdercoating that it's non-conductive, so you need to leave some stuff uncoated so it can be grounded properly.

#45 2 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

keep in mind when you're powdercoating that it's non-conductive, so you need to leave some stuff uncoated so it can be grounded properly.

thanks for the reminder

#46 2 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Kind of hypocritical of you, given how you act in other's threads, and how it was clearly a JOKE. You should relax and take yourself a little less seriously.

I took his comment as tongue in cheek, as he did mine. At least I hope so?

#47 2 years ago
Quoted from brenna98:

You don't have to spend the big money on alltek boards...
I usually start with the rectifier board: I get a new pinhead red one from PBR.
Because it's easier to swap than pull and rebuild.
I rebuild the solenoid driver per Vid's guide.
The original lamp board can be upgraded with resistors on the back to function exactly like an alltek and only costs about $1. It doesn't look as pretty, but you never see it. (Pic)
I only use the alltek MPU to troubleshoot. If your original is in good shape, it will work just fine.
Then of course repin all the connectors.

I agree. I would use the guide, do the mods and verify your test voltages. You certainly want to replace those caps on the power supply.

#48 2 years ago

Regarding fixing the old boards vs buying Alltek. Certainly a good case from the cost side can be made to simply rebuild old boards with some new components. OTOH, these Alltek boards are more than just replacements and you never have to bother with it again. Alltek's SDB, among other things, offers short circuit protection that you won't find on the originals. I have had coils lock on that would have damaged an original board, but shorted coils cause no problems with the Alltek.

#49 2 years ago

Yeah, my plan for this one is to go alltek. It just comes down to me wanting it to have a better shot at making it through MGC weekend.

I have plenty of other games from this era that can use these boards.

#50 2 years ago

pretty productive day. Got the top half of the topside pretty much done.

P1210083 (resized).JPG

P1210084 (resized).JPG

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 30.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 50.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 155.00
From: $ 155.00
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
There are 217 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 5.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside