(Topic ID: 211633)

Why is there a jumper E11-E25 on MPU 2518-35?


By JethroP

1 year ago



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  • 23 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 year ago by JethroP
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#1 1 year ago

Just acquired a Bally Star Trek in non working condition. Power supply is bad and I have ordered new bridge rectifiers. One TIP is bad and a fried resistor on the solenoid board which I will replace (along with the electrolytics). Now on the MPU, which the previous owner said was bad, there is a jumper between E11 and E25. When I get the unit powered up for the first time, should I leave this jumper, or should I remove it? I don't understand what it is for. Thanks for any help here.

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#2 1 year ago

It's a jumper that tells the machine what size ROMs to expect, in this case that a 2716 ROM will be in position U2. What ROMs do you have in your machine?

#3 1 year ago

Can you post a picture of the lower half of the board showing the U6 ROM and the jumpers to the left of it?

#4 1 year ago

Looks identical to the OE board in the Silverball Mania I recently finished, down to the same wire stripe. I never questioned it...

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#5 1 year ago

Here's the pic of U6 and the jumper next to it. My ROM's in U1, U2, and U6 are all 9316A.

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#6 1 year ago

It is jumpered wrong for those ROMs. Checkout Bally/Stern on pinwiki.com for what jumpers are correct.

#7 1 year ago

E11 to E25 would be setting the board to trigger U2 Pin 20 off of /A14. Is that for 2532 and similar type of masked PROM?? I have seen that jumper done many times, but not really sure why they use it as I would normally always convert right over to the typical 2732 jumper setup we use.

The standard jumpers for 2732 have u2 of triggering with /(vua+q2+a12)+A11.

#8 1 year ago

I'm not sure what you are suggesting. Remove the jumper? Or it will work?

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I'm not sure what you are suggesting. Remove the jumper? Or it will work?

It depends if your ROMs are proper. Considering ive seen countless MPUs with that jumper setup, it will work in some situation.

If you are locked up and unsure / know about your roms/jumpers are mixed up/good. Then you rejumper the board for two 2732s and get new known good 2732 ROMs.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I'm not sure what you are suggesting. Remove the jumper? Or it will work?

The board's design works for different design memory chips.

The board requires the jumpers be set to support the type of ROM chips that are in the game.

So 'why is there a jumper'? Because that's what intended to be there
'Is it needed?' - Basically yes, but being there doesn't mean its right. You must have the jumper setup match the chips in use.

#11 1 year ago

So it appears the jumper I originally noticed, as well as others, are set up for a different game (ROM's). I've checked the 9316 ROM's and they are in fact for my game (STAR TREK), so I will change all the jumpers for these ROM's. Thanks for helping me find and correct this problem. Hoping the board works when I get it powered up for the first time.

#12 1 year ago

That jumper setup won't work with the 9316A ROMs you have. Your board is jumpered for 2716 EPROMs as mentioned above which has different chip enable signalling to 9316A.

See the pic below - note my U6 ROM is a 9316A in ceramic package version. Jumpers you need are:

E1 - E4
E2 - E6
E7 - E8
E9 - E11
E12 - E36
E13 - E15

E31 - E32
E33 - E34
E16A - E19

Bally MPU 9316A jumper setup

#13 1 year ago

Thanks. Yes, I have changed all the incorrect jumpers and installed new as shown. Will be a few more days before I can power up this game and see what happens. Thanks again!

#14 1 year ago

Just curious...is it likely or possible that anything (i.e., my ROM's) were damaged if the board was powered up with jumpers set for the wrong ROM's? I guess I'll find out soon enough.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Just curious...is it likely or possible that anything (i.e., my ROM's) were damaged if the board was powered up with jumpers set for the wrong ROM's?

That incorrect jumper setup cannot cause damage to the ROMs or the MPU board.
Technically, the CPU would have executed incorrect code that on a one in a million chance could have caused a coil to lock on - extremely unlikely though.

#16 1 year ago

OK. I replaced the 3 bridge rectifiers and the power supply is working with proper voltages at all the TPs. Powered up the game and got a flicker then 7 flashes on the MPU. After the 7th flash the LED goes to a very dim intensity. There is a beep from the speaker, and the GI's come on. That's about all the good news. Game does not go into attract mode. The displays are half off and half showing some random numbers. The credit button does nothing. I have known working solenoid driver and Lamp driver boards installed. Any suggestions as to what the problem(s) might be preventing complete start up?

#17 1 year ago

Disconnect connectors J2 and J3 from the MPU board. Does it still fail to go into attract mode?

#18 1 year ago

Nothing changed when I tried that. BY the way, I didn't mention before that on the playfield (with and without J2 and J3 connected) there are 4 controlled lamps lit; 1, 2, 3, and 4 thousand bonus points.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from JethroP:

BY the way, I didn't mention before that on the playfield (with and without J2 and J3 connected) there are 4 controlled lamps lit; 1, 2, 3, and 4 thousand bonus points.

Someone had a similar problem a month or two ago but I can't find it.

This time disconnect J4 from the lamp driver board - do the displays now enter attract mode properly (alternating between 00 and High Score to Date)?

#20 1 year ago

Ive made some progress. I missed this the first time around. There was slight corrosion damage that I cleaned up but missed repairing a broken trace and disconnected capacitor near the 555 chip. Now it resets and all is working EXCEPT I keep blowing the fuse under the playfield. When I start a game one of the pop bumpers chatters for a few seconds then the fuse blows. I've checked the resistance across the coil and it's like the others, about 10 ohms. I've checked the switch and it's about 1/16" like the others. Now what??

#21 1 year ago

Which pop bumper is causing the problem?

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Ive made some progress. I missed this the first time around. There was slight corrosion damage that I cleaned up but missed repairing a broken trace and disconnected capacitor near the 555 chip. Now it resets and all is working EXCEPT I keep blowing the fuse under the playfield. When I start a game one of the pop bumpers chatters for a few seconds then the fuse blows. I've checked the resistance across the coil and it's like the others, about 10 ohms. I've checked the switch and it's about 1/16" like the others. Now what??

When the 555 timer had an issue you where probably hammering the CPU with display interrupts and the software would crash.

Find the pop bumper under the PF and clip off the capacitor wired across the switch. If that fixes it the cap was bad. The cap helps the switch be more sensitive, but I have found a properly adjusted pop bumper can be nice and snappy without that cap. If it seems to be missing closures and you don't like the performance add the cap back. 0.047uF (or 47nF)

#23 1 year ago

Yippee!! All working now except some of the displays. I'll work on them one at a time. I've been pretty successful fixing them before. Thanks a million!!!

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