I used clear buttons and a single colored flex LED.

I used clear buttons and the double headed flex LEDs from comet LEDs. I wa really happy with it.

I find clear buttons are better at lighting up and showing the color.

I use colored flex instead. That way if you decide to change colors, swapping leds is easier than buttons.

Yeah, I think you will get the best results with clear. FWIW I used clear buttons with a flex LED.

Always make sure when installing these to make sure they do not get caught on the playfield when lowering. Could cause some problems other then breaking them.

I picked up a few of those circuit board kits that screw into the flat nuts of the buttons. These have two leds on each board and keep the leds flush against the cabinet. Always use clear buttons because the light gets washed out with colored ones.

Another trick, if the power that runs the lamp in the start button matches, use it to power the flipper buttons. That way they flash in game over mode and stand out more.

That's what I did here. This is Cointaker flipper LED kit (I had the spare kit so I cheated on this one) behind translucent buttons tied into the start switch lamp.

I did this with some flex LEDs, but the light was pretty dim. Has anyone ever used a flex flasher instead and hooked it up to 12v for a brighter light?

I used colored buttons and colored flex LEDs. I really like it.

The standard 1SMD flex, I have some from PBB and some from Comet (they're the same bulb).

I have supplies to do a bunch of games, but the first I did was a CFTBL with green translucent buttons and green LEDs. They were so dim from the outside that I didn't bother finishing the install.

red on red in BSD.

I've got some cheap Ablaze #555 colored flex bulbs on order from PBL, as well as some clear buttons and some bulb sockets to outfit a few of my games.

I used translucent blue on my WW with CT blue flex's. EDIT: sorry kinda hard to see but only pics I have with them installed.
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This is what I used and was bright on my AFM.

Biggest issue I have is the clear buttons suck over time. They are not as smooth and get stuck at times. I only have this issue with clear buttons.

I've had buttons that want to stick.

Usually you can take them apart and ease the edge of the inner button part.

I wouldn't think it's an issue that's exclusive to the clear buttons. They're all from the same kind of mold and likely the same kind of plastic (with or without dye).

Clear buttons w/ pinball life flex LEDs. The BOP has color slow color changer LEDs.

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Yes I've had 2 sets of crap clear buttons, and it's also been talked about on Pinside before. They just don't feel right and can be a bit sticky...not sure why....I have read about some people sanding the inner part down a bit...never tried myself yet though..

I got my order in today and just installed some in my Hook. I think clear buttons with yellow LEDs look great. I noticed from above, the lights bleed through the sides of the apron. Has anyone done anything nice looking to block that? I guess if I feel like it's an issue, a black piece of card stock could be bent up and put over it as a light shield from above.

Man, I would have done that in my Hook, but I run my games with tokens and it looks like the start button only lights and blinks when there are credits, otherwise it's dark. I wired mine into one of the coin chute lights.

Clear buttons and a single colored flex LED hooked into the start button using piggy back connectors so no wires are cut and can put the wiring back to stock.
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I used some thick black weatherstripping type stuff when I did it the first time...

I had no idea those existed! I followed the same principal, though, of tapping into the a light that had quick connects with a DIY spliced up piggyback connector, and covered the bare metal with heat-shrink tubing.

Transparent red buttons with a single red flex led from Pinball Bulbs. Happy with the result.

On a Getaway - thinking of doing this to my F14 and somehow getting it to light up red white and blue (clear button).

Red translucent flippers and red flex LEDS from PBL in both my EATPM and Cyclone. Looks great.

Yes, the games we had a show did it. Markmon has experimented with them and they did it on multiple games.

I figured they were the same molds as colored buttons though?

I can't find those spade splitters anywhere, I checked Home Depot, ACE, and Wal-Mart with no-luck. No Radio Shack in my town anymore. I didn't really want to order through the mail because of shipping so I guess I'll have to tap the wires.

Maybe an automotive store? At the very least you should be able to get some disconnect terminal male ends and build something similar.

(not sure about sizes on these) http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-AutoGrade-25-pcs-yellow-male-disconnect-terminal/_/N-25oe?itemIdentifier=456918&_requestid=6570374

These connectors are fairly easy to use to tap into the coin door wires:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2998435#

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I just did some searching on e-bay and found these, which are actually called piggyback connectors. Never tried the automotive stores in my town, although the time and gas I've spent looking, it would have been cheaper just buying these which seem to be a decent price.

ebay.com link: 25 PC 22 18 AWG FEMALE SPADE PIGGYBACK 250 CRIMP CONNECTORS

Edit: I missed where njg correctly called them "piggyback connectors", it's been a long week already!

I taped into the coin door wires using line splice connectors.

That's bad, lol.

I used the clear buttons with one flex LED from PBL. Red on one side and blue on the other of my F14. Looks GREAT!

LOL my F-14 is set up the same way. Transformers Style™ GI/Flipper Rubber and Posts matched to each side. Red up the left, Blue up the right.