(Topic ID: 84540)

Who's installing DIY lit flipper buttons?


By MustangPaul

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 46 posts
  • 19 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Patofnaud
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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    #1 5 years ago

    I'm installing them via vid1900s guide and was wondering who has done it and what did you use for buttons. Clear buttons with one or two colored leds, colored buttons with one or two colored leds or colored buttons with one or two white leds. There are so many combs I was wondering what others were doing. So far for one led button one led I'm getting buy for under $3 per button. Using 2 leds will add $1.40.

    Lit button 1.JPG Lit button 2.JPG Lit button 3.JPG
    #2 5 years ago

    I used clear buttons and a single colored flex LED.

    #3 5 years ago

    I used clear buttons and the double headed flex LEDs from comet LEDs. I wa really happy with it.

    #4 5 years ago
    Quoted from jdoz2:

    I used clear buttons and the double headed flex LEDs from comet LEDs. I wa really happy with it.

    I tried the white and red Comet 2 head with a red button and was not happy with the brightness

    #5 5 years ago

    I find clear buttons are better at lighting up and showing the color.

    I use colored flex instead. That way if you decide to change colors, swapping leds is easier than buttons.

    #6 5 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    I find clear buttons are better at lighting up and showing the color.
    I use colored flex instead. That way if you decide to change colors, swapping leds is easier than buttons.

    Good points, I'm lighting the red buttons that came with the games but I'll get the clear ones for the other games. Thanks.

    #7 5 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Good points, I'm lighting the red buttons that came with the games but I'll get the clear ones for the other games. Thanks.

    Yeah, I think you will get the best results with clear. FWIW I used clear buttons with a flex LED.

    #8 5 years ago

    Always make sure when installing these to make sure they do not get caught on the playfield when lowering. Could cause some problems other then breaking them.

    I picked up a few of those circuit board kits that screw into the flat nuts of the buttons. These have two leds on each board and keep the leds flush against the cabinet. Always use clear buttons because the light gets washed out with colored ones.

    #9 5 years ago

    Another trick, if the power that runs the lamp in the start button matches, use it to power the flipper buttons. That way they flash in game over mode and stand out more.

    That's what I did here. This is Cointaker flipper LED kit (I had the spare kit so I cheated on this one) behind translucent buttons tied into the start switch lamp.

    #10 5 years ago

    I did this with some flex LEDs, but the light was pretty dim. Has anyone ever used a flex flasher instead and hooked it up to 12v for a brighter light?

    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    Another trick, if the power that runs the lamp in the start button matches, use it to power the flipper buttons. That way they flash in game over mode and stand out more.
    That's what I did here. This is Cointaker flipper LED kit (I had the spare kit so I cheated on this one) behind translucent buttons tied into the start switch lamp.
    » YouTube video

    That looks cool.

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from Cheeks:

    I did this with some flex LEDs, but the light was pretty dim. Has anyone ever used a flex flasher instead and hooked it up to 12v for a brighter light?

    Which flex were you using? The Pinballbulbs flex are nice and bright.

    #13 5 years ago

    I used colored buttons and colored flex LEDs. I really like it.

    #14 5 years ago

    The standard 1SMD flex, I have some from PBB and some from Comet (they're the same bulb).

    I have supplies to do a bunch of games, but the first I did was a CFTBL with green translucent buttons and green LEDs. They were so dim from the outside that I didn't bother finishing the install.

    #15 5 years ago
    Quoted from Cheeks:

    The standard 1SMD flex, I have some from PBB and some from Comet (they're the same bulb).
    I have supplies to do a bunch of games, but the first I did was a CFTBL with green translucent buttons and green LEDs. They were so dim from the outside that I didn't bother finishing the install.

    I see. Thanks

    #16 5 years ago
    Quoted from aobrien5:

    I used colored buttons and colored flex LEDs. I really like it.

    What color are they?

    #17 5 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    What color are they?

    red on red in BSD.

    #18 5 years ago

    I've got some cheap Ablaze #555 colored flex bulbs on order from PBL, as well as some clear buttons and some bulb sockets to outfit a few of my games.

    #19 5 years ago

    I used translucent blue on my WW with CT blue flex's. EDIT: sorry kinda hard to see but only pics I have with them installed.
    IMG_2645.jpg
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    #20 5 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Which flex were you using? The Pinballbulbs flex are nice and bright.

    This is what I used and was bright on my AFM.

    Biggest issue I have is the clear buttons suck over time. They are not as smooth and get stuck at times. I only have this issue with clear buttons.

    #21 5 years ago

    I have red on red in my HS, EATPM and BoP and I'm going to try 2 bulbs on each button and see what happens.

    #22 5 years ago
    Quoted from winteriscoming:

    I've got some cheap Ablaze #555 colored flex bulbs on order from PBL, as well as some clear buttons and some bulb sockets to outfit a few of my games.

    Your gonna have fun, lit buttons really stand out in a dark room which my room is.

    #23 5 years ago
    Quoted from jrivelli:

    This is what I used and was bright on my AFM.
    Biggest issue I have is the clear buttons suck over time. They are not as smooth and get stuck at times. I only have this issue with clear buttons.

    Really. Anyone else have this problem?

    #24 5 years ago

    I've had buttons that want to stick.

    Usually you can take them apart and ease the edge of the inner button part.

    #25 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I've had buttons that want to stick.
    Usually you can take them apart and ease the edge of the inner button part.

    I wouldn't think it's an issue that's exclusive to the clear buttons. They're all from the same kind of mold and likely the same kind of plastic (with or without dye).

    #26 5 years ago

    Clear buttons w/ pinball life flex LEDs. The BOP has color slow color changer LEDs.

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    #27 5 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Really. Anyone else have this problem?

    Yes I've had 2 sets of crap clear buttons, and it's also been talked about on Pinside before. They just don't feel right and can be a bit sticky...not sure why....I have read about some people sanding the inner part down a bit...never tried myself yet though..

    #28 5 years ago

    I got my order in today and just installed some in my Hook. I think clear buttons with yellow LEDs look great. I noticed from above, the lights bleed through the sides of the apron. Has anyone done anything nice looking to block that? I guess if I feel like it's an issue, a black piece of card stock could be bent up and put over it as a light shield from above.

    #29 5 years ago
    Quoted from Patofnaud:

    Another trick, if the power that runs the lamp in the start button matches, use it to power the flipper buttons. That way they flash in game over mode and stand out more.
    That's what I did here. This is Cointaker flipper LED kit (I had the spare kit so I cheated on this one) behind translucent buttons tied into the start switch lamp.
    » YouTube video

    Man, I would have done that in my Hook, but I run my games with tokens and it looks like the start button only lights and blinks when there are credits, otherwise it's dark. I wired mine into one of the coin chute lights.

    #30 5 years ago

    Clear buttons and a single colored flex LED hooked into the start button using piggy back connectors so no wires are cut and can put the wiring back to stock.
    400665_primary-153.jpg
    njg

    #31 5 years ago
    Quoted from winteriscoming:

    I got my order in today and just installed some in my Hook. I think clear buttons with yellow LEDs look great. I noticed from above, the lights bleed through the sides of the apron. Has anyone done anything nice looking to block that? I guess if I feel like it's an issue, a black piece of card stock could be bent up and put over it as a light shield from above.

    I used some thick black weatherstripping type stuff when I did it the first time...

    #32 5 years ago
    Quoted from njg:

    Clear buttons and a single colored flex LED hooked into the start button using piggy back connectors so no wires are cut and can put the wiring back to stock.

    njg

    400665_primary-153.jpg 3 KB

    I had no idea those existed! I followed the same principal, though, of tapping into the a light that had quick connects with a DIY spliced up piggyback connector, and covered the bare metal with heat-shrink tubing.

    #33 5 years ago

    Transparent red buttons with a single red flex led from Pinball Bulbs. Happy with the result.

    On a Getaway - thinking of doing this to my F14 and somehow getting it to light up red white and blue (clear button).

    #34 5 years ago

    Red translucent flippers and red flex LEDS from PBL in both my EATPM and Cyclone. Looks great.

    #35 5 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    Really. Anyone else have this problem?

    Yes, the games we had a show did it. Markmon has experimented with them and they did it on multiple games.

    I figured they were the same molds as colored buttons though?

    #36 5 years ago
    Quoted from njg:

    Clear buttons and a single colored flex LED hooked into the start button using piggy back connectors so no wires are cut and can put the wiring back to stock.

    njg

    400665_primary-153.jpg 3 KB

    I can't find those spade splitters anywhere, I checked Home Depot, ACE, and Wal-Mart with no-luck. No Radio Shack in my town anymore. I didn't really want to order through the mail because of shipping so I guess I'll have to tap the wires.

    #37 5 years ago
    Quoted from RonB:

    I can't find those spade splitters anywhere, I checked Home Depot, ACE, and Wal-Mart with no-luck. No Radio Shack in my town anymore. I didn't really want to order through the mail because of shipping so I guess I'll have to tap the wires.

    Maybe an automotive store? At the very least you should be able to get some disconnect terminal male ends and build something similar.

    (not sure about sizes on these) http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-AutoGrade-25-pcs-yellow-male-disconnect-terminal/_/N-25oe?itemIdentifier=456918&_requestid=6570374

    #38 5 years ago

    These connectors are fairly easy to use to tap into the coin door wires:

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2998435#

    pRS1C-4435086w345.jpg

    #39 5 years ago

    I just did some searching on e-bay and found these, which are actually called piggyback connectors. Never tried the automotive stores in my town, although the time and gas I've spent looking, it would have been cheaper just buying these which seem to be a decent price.

    ebay.com link » 25 Pc 22 18 Awg Female Spade Piggyback 250 Crimp Connectors

    Edit: I missed where njg correctly called them "piggyback connectors", it's been a long week already!

    #40 5 years ago

    I taped into the coin door wires using line splice connectors.

    #41 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I've had buttons that want to stick.
    Usually you can take them apart and ease the edge of the inner button part.

    The new ones out there can't be taken apart.

    #42 5 years ago
    Quoted from MustangPaul:

    The new ones out there can't be taken apart.

    That's bad, lol.

    #43 5 years ago
    Quoted from fuseholder:

    I taped into the coin door wires using line splice connectors.

    That's what I use too, get them at Walfart for a buck cheaper then RS and their the 3M brand too with the dual slicing blades not the cheap one blade type. You'll never pull it apart.

    #44 5 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That's bad, lol.

    That's why their still only $1.50 at PBL.

    #45 5 years ago

    I used the clear buttons with one flex LED from PBL. Red on one side and blue on the other of my F14. Looks GREAT!

    #46 5 years ago
    Quoted from Schwaggs:

    I used the clear buttons with one flex LED from PBL. Red on one side and blue on the other of my F14. Looks GREAT!

    LOL my F-14 is set up the same way. Transformers Style™ GI/Flipper Rubber and Posts matched to each side. Red up the left, Blue up the right.

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