(Topic ID: 312964)

Who wants to build a Wizard AKA Abra AAB

By pinhead52

1 year ago


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  • 133 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 19 days ago by docquest
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There are 133 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 1 year ago

Ok gang, here's the 2nd build, Wizard 8008 in a deep cab. Just needs a little fine tuning before it ships.

Notice the lit moons, the collected WOWs. just gorgeous

Ken

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#52 1 year ago

Here's a little add on, customer wants Wizard set for 50 cents per play. Team One has a plug setting for 2 coins for 3 plays, ie 2 quarters starts a game and puts 2 credits on the half moon credit unit.

After a minute or 2 of intense thought I had the idea to disconnect the credit add lead. So now two coins starts a game but no credits added, Pretty simple.

Will get a buddy to make me up a decal for "50 cents per play (2 QUARTERS)".

If anybody wants one let me know.

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#53 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Ok gang, here's the 2nd build, Wizard 8008 in a deep cab. Just needs a little fine tuning before it ships.
Notice the lit moons, the collected WOWs. just gorgeous
Ken
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome!

#54 1 year ago

Amazing work

#55 1 year ago

Sigh, another hack to the build... PBR all out of rail spiral nails, Marcos are not the same. Will try to find an alternative...

Until I can find a suitable replacement Im going to use a star nail for the first spot (your flipper fingers feel it) but then use #4 stainless sheet metal screws for the rest...

Anybody found replacements?

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#56 1 year ago

I just noticed a neat feature on the game. If you have completed the 6 rollovers/have the roving WOW lite on the drop target banks... hitting the dip awards you the WOW as well. I thought it was a bug but then examining the schematic shows the dip has an extra contact that feeds into the KS relay...

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#57 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

I just noticed a neat feature on the game. If you have completed the 6 rollovers/have the roving WOW lite on the drop target banks... hitting the dip awards you the WOW as well. I thought it was a bug but then examining the schematic shows the dip has an extra contact that feeds into the KS relay...[quoted image][quoted image]

One would hope it should award a WOW, since the spot is still lit, and there's a target there.

#58 1 year ago

On team one it is not in common to have most of the targets down when you first complete the rollovers you need the 5 and 6 dips to reward the the wow. Best case scenario is to complete all the Drop targets hit the center target get the wow reset the drops then get the last rollover that will and light up the drops for additional wow’s. Much easier said than done it’s a very rare day when that happens.

#59 1 year ago

Still waiting on pf and bg delivery from Fresno. In my spare time I repainted a Kicker for a customer. (Team One with a Kicker glass I bought from Mayfair)

Green flipper buttons were a nice touch.

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#60 1 year ago

Recreated coinslot insert for 50 cent play

image003 (resized).pngimage003 (resized).png

#61 1 year ago

Here is another option.

Peter

Gottlieb_coin_cards_50c.pdfGottlieb_coin_cards_50c.pdf
#62 1 year ago

Kinda stuck on 2 plays per quarter, 5 balls a game.

#63 1 year ago
Quoted from Electrocute:

Kinda stuck on 2 plays per quarter, 5 balls a game.

Those labels are also available from my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Here is a quick link to the file: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Gottlieb/Gottlieb_coin_cards.zip
The two mentioned above are also in the file.

#64 1 year ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Those labels are also available from my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Here is a quick link to the file: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Gottlieb/Gottlieb_coin_cards.zip
The two mentioned above are also in the file.

Good stuff Peter, thankyou very much.

#65 1 year ago

Regarding Item 6 in the wiring instructions (Turning off "Balls to Play" at game over) I'm going to use the 25V "bus" (Red-White wire) through a resistor to accomplish that. Gottlieb used a 75 Ohm 10W in situations where they needed to operate a #44 on the 25V side. Since I'm using #47's, a 125 Ohm 5W or 10W will provide the proper voltage drop. The other side of the lamp will connect to the 25V common (Black wire). The only down-side to this solution, is that the Balls to Play light will go out when the game is tilted, but does come back on when play resumes.

#66 1 year ago
Quoted from Mthomasslo:

Regarding Item 6 in the wiring instructions (Turning off "Balls to Play" at game over) I'm going to use the 25V "bus" (Red-White wire) through a resistor to accomplish that. Gottlieb used a 75 Ohm 10W in situations where they needed to operate a #44 on the 25V side. Since I'm using #47's, a 125 Ohm 5W or 10W will provide the proper voltage drop. The other side of the lamp will connect to the 25V common (Black wire). The only down-side to this solution, is that the Balls to Play light will go out when the game is tilted, but does come back on when play resumes.

Yea that should be workable. Ive got to check, may have two lamps to light the segment.

#67 1 year ago

There’s only one lamp in that spot, I like the way the Balls to play goes dark on Game Over, Wade had a good idea. I have it set up at the Golden State Pinball Festival. Thanks for bringing this project to reality!

#68 1 year ago
Quoted from Mthomasslo:

There’s only one lamp in that spot, I like the way the Balls to play goes dark on Game Over, Wade had a good idea. I have it set up at the Golden State Pinball Festival. Thanks for bringing this project to reality!

You built your Wizard already? Love to see pics!

#69 1 year ago

Here it in Lodi

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#70 1 year ago
Quoted from Mthomasslo:

Here it in Lodi[quoted image]

Great job Mike! And in only three weeks! (Mike picked his kit up directly from Wade)

May just have you build another Wizard since you've got another TeamOne.

#71 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Great job Mike! And in only three weeks! (Mike picked his kit up directly from Wade)
May just have you build another Wizard since you've got another TeamOne.

Footnote, I finally got tired of waiting for a buddy to transport from Wade, will have CRST pick up the pieces from Wade next week

#72 1 year ago

In the flesh!

#73 1 year ago
Quoted from Mthomasslo:

Here it in Lodi[quoted image]

Loved it! I played it multiple times over the course of the weekend. Got 74,400 as my highest with three added balls. There's a lot more room for way more scoring, too. Beautiful game, fun to play, a real treat to have a the show. Thanks for bringing it!

#74 1 year ago

Another pic of Wizard at the show with Wade (borrowed from FB)

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#75 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Another pic of Wizard at the show with Wade (borrowed from FB)
[quoted image]

friggin beautiful, can't wait to start on mine.

#76 1 year ago
Quoted from Dono:

friggin beautiful, can't wait to start on mine.

Yeah. That green hair really makes it!

#77 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Yeah. That green hair really makes it!

That haircut is Divine. All aside, great to see Wade standing next to the machine. Hopefully, he’ll put Volley in his queue.

#78 1 year ago

Hey, here's a source for ground braid, I just bought 100 feet

https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/tin-plated-copper-ground-wire-18-awg.html

#79 1 year ago

A quick note to say the Wade lot was picked up today and on its way to KC where 15 pf's will get clearcoated. Hoping to ship the kits early June.

Ken

#80 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

A quick note to say the Wade lot was picked up today and on its way to KC where 15 pf's will get clearcoated. Hoping to ship the kits early June.
Ken

Ken, kudos for keeping everyone up to date on progress and following through with your plans... a lot o' pin companies could learn a bit from how you've managed and communicated this project... top notch.

#81 1 year ago

Wizard #3 coming together, cab all painted. Hacking up the lightboard.

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#82 1 year ago

Here's wiz#3 almost complete. This gets picked up next Tue. Will spend a day checking out all the features both AAB and novelty modes.

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#83 1 year ago

With Wiz3 all done and waiting for the pf's to get clear coated... I figured I'd look at a little light bleed, especially from the 500,000 cell to the numbers above it. You can see it in the first pic. I cut a strip of fuzzy velco that I normally use as the felt replacement and put it across the top of the light cell. and it took care of the bleed. On my next run of Wizard with Wade I'll have him make the 500,000 cell a tad shorter.

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#84 1 year ago

With Wizard#3 all bundled up for shipping to Canada and still waiting of the clearing of the majority of the playfields I figured I'd run down the hacks/mods for the game:

1. Free Play. A couple of alligator jumpers on the credit unit, the red jumper turns enables free play, the yellow jumper turns on the apron credit light.

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2. Lighted credit button: A simple little add-on, clear strap from pbr an a two tab insulated socket, wired off or the coin chute lamp. Makes a nice touch especially if the game is on free play. Use a 455 bulb for extra sauce

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3. "Balls to Play" lamp out at game over. Relatively easy to achieve. The power to the pf is cut at game over. The contact is on the ball count unit. Easy enough to wire from this 24v feed through a 150 ohm resistor to feed the lamp. It currently sits on the GI circuit of the light board, you would need to cut both the 6v feed as well as the 6v return braids and attach those to the 24v stuff. 47 lamp equals 150 ohms. 44 lamp equals 75 ohm... Closest place to pick up the feeds is off the jones plugs. Either Red-Wh or Red-Gr and then the black for the return. Right edge of the cir diagram
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4. No scoring at 5 WOWS hack. For the expert player amongst us that hate it when you reach 5 WOWs racked up, hiring another lit drop target yields nothing/notta/zip. Dono has a added relay hack where is will score 5K points (maybe Don will repeat it here). Ive come up with a little simpler fix/hack. One the lightbox stepper reaches 5 WOWs a notch in the wheel opens a contact and prevents further advancement (pic below). To add some functionality at 5 WOWs change this NC contact to a Form C ie when it open on 1 side it closes another contact. Easiest thing I found was to wire to the 1K relay. So if you hit a WOW with 5 racked you'll at least get 1K points. Fairly simple add-on
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5. Last hack of the day: 2 coin 1 game play... Wiz#2 customer wanted to set the game up for 50 cent per play. There is only optioning for 2 coin yields 3 play: 2 credits on the credit unit and start a game. After minutes of serious though... why dont we just disconnect the credit add feed/wire to the credit unit... no stored credits. Poop there it is. Hardest part of this hack was coming up with the credit labels...

If anybody wants any of these added to their Wizard reach out to me. I normally just do the free play hack.

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#85 1 year ago

Thanks for setting these up in one place Ken!

1 week later
#86 1 year ago

Well finally received all the remaining pieces from Wade. I had everything shipped to KC where we have a resource lined up to clear coat 15 playfields.

For the kit buyers that didnt want ccoating unfortunately this delays the ship... I expect to pick these up in ~2 weeks and then get the kits shipped towards the end of June. I will try to ship pf and glass in the same box (FedEx ground), should be $100 or less. But do want to try this for a couple as a sample.

For game buyers I will be doing two per month with the last two in Sept.

Still need 3 more games for buyers on a wait list.

And if everything ships fine I have two kits that are unreserved.

Note for buyers on the wait list there are some minor flaws both in pf and backglass (Wades 2nds) I will send details to the prospective buyers so they are aware...

Ken

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3 weeks later
#87 1 year ago

Ok I updated the diagram with lead colors to make it handy

Repeating instruction
Step 1. Remove light board from head, demount the old particle board light baffle from the plywood backer. There will be 4 or 5 nails to be removed.

Step 2 Attach new light baffle to backer. use wood glue and clamps, maybe a nail gun.

Step 3 Drill out the hinge mounting hole from the back and then countersink from the front

Step 4 Hole drilling. Ideally 15/32nds but the only brad bit i had was a 1/2 inch. You'll want to use a wood cutter with sharp points on the edges to get clean holes. Here's a cheap set from Amazon amazon.com link » If you slow up on the drill as you punch through the back you'll get a cleaner exit without too much chipping. (You can stop half way through, drill a 1/8 inch pilot then drill from the backside and you'll have no chipping but its a lot of work.)

I drilled all the needed holes first then did the wiring. Next post to cover wiring...

Blue circles represent new socket holes, Xs represent abandoned holes, plug as necessary.

We will use staple sockets, can resuse some or just use all new from PBR, about 20 needed

No dimensions given for hole placement, not that critical. I set the light board on three gallon paint cans as a stand. A couple of new holes were near existing stuff so I would drill a 1/8 pilot hole first to check interference

Note 1 Eyes for the monster. The mounting holes for the relay stand are right in this location. Unclip all the relays and remove stand. Stand needs to be positioned 1/2 inch up. The top relay will get close to the reel cage, ensure you have clearance from the coil leads (I trimmed the coil lugs a little). Drill pilot holes for the new stand location. And then drill two socket holes for the eyes.

Note 2 Previous high score lite box, one existing hole was in a good spot, added a 2nd hole for the box

Note 3 New hole in the Tilt box

Note 4. The balls in play boxes need to shift over. Drill a new for "5". Number 4 is a little low in the box but there is a jones plug right in the way making it a little difficult to move up.

Note 5 I actually drilled 2 holes for the new game over box, there is a ground braid right in the middle so drilled either side

Note 6 Ill cover this in wiring

Note 7 General illumination for the Wizard. I ended up with 7 sockets for lighting the Wizard, two lower down, at the same level as the abandoned. see drill pic. And also one up to lite the raised arm

Note 8 WOW boxes, 3 new holes, reused 2

Note 9 new hole for blue orb. and new hole for 200K

Note 10 new hole for the 100K lamp. if the old holes are cover by the new baffle I dont bother plugging

Note 11 New hole for the 900K lamp

Note 12 New hole for the 900K lamp

Added additional lamp socket in the smaller general illumination box

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#88 1 year ago

Time to get busy, 17 pf's picked uip from the clear coater.

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#89 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Time to get busy, 17 pf's picked uip from the clear coater.
[quoted image]

Oh boy!!!

#90 1 year ago

rock on with your bad self Ken, awesome!

#91 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Time to get busy, 17 pf's picked uip from the clear coater.
[quoted image]

What's with the "Domino"?

#92 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

What's with the "Domino"?

it was a cheap CL find, $425 in okc

#93 1 year ago

Received my shipment from Fed Ex today. I cannot say enough about how nice this is. Glad I sprang for the clearcoat. Ken thought of everything. Anyone on the fence should snap up any Ken has left before they're gone. For the amount of effort he put in this project, the price is a steal.

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#94 1 year ago

A couple of build notes... some times glass alignment is a little off. In the case the score rel digits were a little low in the window. My quick solution (hack) is a couple of pop cycle sticks to raise up the backboard. Another time the digits were too high and I put the pop cycle stick under the glass.

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#95 1 year ago

Another minor item I noticed, the holes drilled for the pop bumpers, especially the ring rods dont exactly match the plate in these late 70's games. Usually its not a problem but I have had cases where it causes binding...

My solution, take a drill bit the same size as the hole in the plate and run it thru enlarging the hole slightly. Since it under the pop it will not be noticed.

Interesting too the new bases from pbr dont fit in the mitered hole that Wade does for the pop. I always have to use the old base to get it to fit.

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#96 1 year ago

I've got one more game to restore prior to getting to my Abra project so thanks again for your detailed pix and explanations of things that may need tweaking, redrills, etc... much appreciated.

2 weeks later
#97 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Another minor item I noticed, the holes drilled for the pop bumpers, especially the ring rods dont exactly match the plate in these late 70's games. Usually its not a problem but I have had cases where it causes binding...
My solution, take a drill bit the same size as the hole in the plate and run it thru enlarging the hole slightly. Since it under the pop it will not be noticed.
Interesting too the new bases from pbr dont fit in the mitered hole that Wade does for the pop. I always have to use the old base to get it to fit.
[quoted image]

I took my dremel with a sanding drum on it to the pop holes and cleaned them up, the new pop bases fit just fine.

Here's another pic of my pop-cycle stick hack, raised up the glass since top edge showed and raised up lightboard too. And then Wizard #6 finishing up with Comet sunlight LEDs. Had to drill out all the sunken lamp holes on the pf and backboard with a 15/32nds drill bit due to the dome on the LEDs.

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2 weeks later
#99 1 year ago

Wizard builds 6&7 now complete and wrapped up for pickup. Starting on 8&9 to be delivered at Expo

Webbing of the day, modeling glue silver and black enamel paint and lac thinner in a small siphon sprayer. im getting pretty consistent results...

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1 month later
#100 1 year ago

Finally started on mine. This is gonna be fun!

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