(Topic ID: 312964)

Who wants to build a Wizard AKA Abra AAB

By pinhead52

1 year ago


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There are 132 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 1 year ago

Ok gang got a sample pf in from Wade while the backglass and pf is sent in for Gottlieb quality checks. I figured I'd start with a material ordering guide for building the playfield.

First of all lamp sockets:

qty 16 Laydowns (qty 10 flattened for the DT roving light, 4 for the top rollovers, 2 for the dip target lights)
qty 9 1/4 inch (behind DT, the sides, and the credit light)
qty 7 1 1/8 (4 bottom rollovers, 3 WOW inserts)
qty 11 9/16s (side lights, rollovers, 3 for the center wow target)
qty 4 1/2ths double tab, the inner rollover lanes you cant run a ground braid to them, have to take the ground through the air, I use insulated wire
qty 2 pop bumper sockets, re-use

Roughly 12 feet of tined ground braid

playfield
intem pbr part#
pop bumper A-13905 green qty 2
6 hole skirt A1218G qty 2
drop trarget GTB-DTS-383 set of 10
bumper base B10432W qty 2
lane divider Green –A9394G qty 6
red tent C15646R qty 2
Bullseye target GTB-A9383B qty 1
Pop cap A-20533 qty 2 ('Neutron Star' or A-16883 Ink Spot)'
Ring Kit Team One

Optional playfield depending on condition

playfeld posts qty 43
playfield split posts qty 6
pop ring WLL A4754 qty 2
pins A10542 qty 10
Acorns
arch stick protector 9933
runway shield 8215
ball gate 3290
bulbs 44/47s etc

and then the usual cab parts
shooter trim plate
bolts
locks
legs (out)
cab protectors
levelers
siderail nails (out)
fuzzy side velcro to replace lightboard felt.

And then coils depending on condition, 5141 for the flippers, 4893 for the pops, 9738 for the hold

Other optional items
High current kicker switches GTB-22224+   qty 4 $8.00
Pop bumper switch stacks GTB-B-8549 (corrected)

Screw hardware

I like using stainless steal rather than re-using the old sometimes brittle original, Boltdepot online or even Homedepot as the #6 by 1/2, phillips head, flat head too much of a pain for where it doesnt show.

#6 3/8s inch rollover wires and lamp sockets
#6 1/2 inch for most of the other

Im sure Im missing something else...

#2 1 year ago

Here is the Wade K production pf. There are three minor issues which I worked with Wade to fix before these get shipped, bonus points for whoever can spot all three.

Here is my pf build sequence... Everybody will have theirs, this is mine:

1. Wax the pf (if not clearcoating). I use Bowling Alley wax from BWC (#Boilerman recommended). 2 or 3 good waxes (he said 4-5)
2. Sand down the old pf sticks and remove the discolored lacquer. And then use Millwax Wipe On Poly to add a coat with a rag, dries in like 30 minutes
3. Polish up the 6 wire lane dividers, I use my bench buffer. And mount. I have 1/2 pieces of oak as a guide and to use as a cushion to sink the guides
4. Attach siderails. Most of the time the old holes will line up. I generally use a pilot screw in the top arch attach holes in the sticks to get the right north south orientation. I use #6 1 inch flathead stainless from HomeDepot, countersinking them.

Sometimes... the stick is too far in/too far out using the old holes. I then start drilling all new holes but need to watch top arch mounting

5. Once the rails are on I cover with blue painters tape to keep them nice while I have the board flipped
6. Lamp socket and rollover wire attach, cleaning up the rollover wires with 400 grit sandpaper
7. Braid laydown, sorry should have had a pic before dumping on the harness
8. Solder the sockets to the new braid
9. dump on the harness. I removed the two drop target banks and relay bank so I could clean those up separately
10. The old harness has all the old lamp sockets as a guide to where they all go. Start attaching...

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#3 1 year ago

Ok next post, a mini vignette on a lamp wiring item.

Gottlieb used some overhead bare wires to feed the inner lane guide sockets. I always manage to short these with my adjuster tool.

So my hack... Is to use a double tab socket for the inner, where you cant run braid. And use an insulated wire for both the hot and return feeds.

Keeping clear of the rollover contact as much as possible.

I do this for the two top inners and the two bottom inners.
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#4 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Here is the Wade K production pf. There are three minor issues which I worked with Wade to fix before these get shipped, bonus points for whoever can spot all three.

1. The R is not centered on insert
2. WOW is spelled backwards everywhere on playfield
3. Wizard should be left-handed

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

1. The R is not centered on insert
2. WOW is spelled backwards everywhere on playfield
3. Wizard should be left-handed

Close but no cigar. Hint, three missing holes, 1 fairly blatant, 2 not so obvious.

#6 1 year ago

Light hole top right out lane
Mounting screw holes pop bumpers

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Close but no cigar. Hint, three missing holes, 1 fairly blatant, 2 not so obvious.

I tried, but that's what I get for knowing absolutely nothing about EM's (I thought my off-centered R was legit).

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Judoratt:

Light hole top right out lane
Mounting screw holes pop bumpers

Light hole missing, correct/ And dang I even missed the pop mount holes. But also two wire feed holes for the lit dip targets.

good catch.

Ken

#9 1 year ago

Here's two days of slugging at the pf and the bottom side is done except for the pops. Everything serviced/cleaned including all the contacts, (havnt done the AS relay yet).

Ensured the rollers are working on the relay bank. DT banks dis-assembled and cleaned etc. Need to make up new fuse labels... Replaced the sleeves in the pops flipper solenoids and kickers.

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#10 1 year ago

Another day and I have the topside 75% complete. Should have it finished later today.

Gets a little complicated with the dip target lamp wiring. Nice to see the paper tubes drop right in to the holes. The two tubes either side of the dip target are a little loose, not a full round hole to hold in place. May use a drop of crazy glue to hold them in place.

Also the posts for the tents, Mini post screw etc. I bought a cheap deep socket set from HF, drilled out the throat of the 1/4 socket and it fits nicely over these posts.

Very cool to see a Gottlieb Copyright for 2022, ie brand new art!

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#11 1 year ago

Finished off the topside, just need to repaint the top arch.

Here is a lamp test. With 44's inserted, almost 7 amps of draw (each 44 is .25 amp).

Still need to make some fuse labels.

Next, painting the cab. Customer wants it in the shallow Abra cab so I had some new ones make.

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#12 1 year ago

Ok pf is finished. Some folks want the Wizard delivered in a shallow Abra (matching) cab versus the TeamOne cab.

I had a local cab maker make me a couple of cabs. i took the day to mount all the standard hardware and verify all the pieces.

Uchannel, new siderails from PBR, pf supports, lockdown bar reciever. coin door, coin slot bezel and mount and coin slot...

Trouble in paradise. The Wizard pf was not cut with a coin chute cutout... I show a Flipper Pool pf to show the needed cutout. And if we were to attempt to cut one it would run into lift cutout. Ugly

So... we can put Wizard into an Abra cab but the coin slot is not going to function... Will reach out to everyone asking for this option to confirm.

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#13 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Ok pf is finished. Some folks want the Wizard delivered in a shallow Abra (matching) cab versus the TeamOne cab.
I had a local cab maker make me a couple of cabs. i took the day to mount all the standard hardware and verify all the pieces.
Uchannel, new siderails from PBR, pf supports, lockdown bar reciever. coin door, coin slot bezel and mount and coin slot...
Trouble in paradise. The Wizard pf was not cut with a coin chute cutout... I show a Flipper Pool pf to show the needed cutout. And if we were to attempt to cut one it would run into lift cutout. Ugly

So... we can put Wizard into an Abra cab but the coin slot is not going to function... Will reach out to everyone asking for this option to confirm.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So to fit in to the Team one cabs that are deeper the slots aren’t needed. I am fine with out having the coin slot working on my shallow cab, great work Ken!

#14 1 year ago

It's great that you're offering the shallower cabinet option, but being that it's the latest wedgehead, it should follow suit with the previous ones which were fitted with the deeper box.
I actually prefer the shallower cabinet design, but Gottlieb decided to change it in the mid '70s. How many are you producing in the shallow box?
I wonder how many kits are going to be installed in a shallow box.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

It's great that you're offering the shallower cabinet option, but being that it's the latest wedgehead, it should follow suit with the previous ones which were fitted with the deeper box.
I actually prefer the shallower cabinet design, but Gottlieb decided to change it in the mid '70s. How many are you producing in the shallow box?
I wonder how many kits are going to be installed in a shallow box.

I hear you Joe. There are 7-8 games that will be produced in the shallow cab. I have orders to build 13 games so far, 6 with the shallow cab. Sitting beside the original Abra it will make a nice pair.

I did just cut up the whiteboard that Wade gave me and I can get chute clearance but it is a big hack. I wont recommend it. But so far most of the buyers dont care about coin operation

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#16 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Sitting beside the original Abra it will make a nice pair.

Yeah, you're right about that.

#17 1 year ago

Just a thought; maybe your cabinet guy has the ability and tools to make that cutout in the playfields?

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from jrpinball:

Just a thought; maybe your cabinet guy has the ability and tools to make that cutout in the playfields?

I have a router, can do a little cleaner cut then I did on the whiteboard. still, doesnt leave much wood to the slot

#19 1 year ago

Got a game base painted over the weekend. Will start the art colors tomorrow.

Meanwhile I took a TeamOne harness and built a Abra door (new stock from pbr) using it. Pretty straight forward however I did have to get an eject arm and shoulder bolt from an earlier coin mech frame.

Did break out the lamp wiring from the harness, these will go down under screws to attach to the coin bezel lamp leads.

Since TeamOne does have a credit unit we have a credit button on the door as well.

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#20 1 year ago

And here is the webbing job. One of my better attempts. Modeling glue and silver/black enamel paint.

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#21 1 year ago

Very nice any chance we could get a peek at the front of the new coin door tomorrow?

#22 1 year ago

Excellent work Ken. Happy Birthday!

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

And here is the webbing job. One of my better attempts. Modeling glue and silver/black enamel paint.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Any tutorials out there describing the model glue technique for webbing?

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from docquest:

Any tutorials out there describing the model glue technique for webbing?

Excellant writeup here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/homebrew-webbing-step-by-step/

#25 1 year ago

That webbing looks so good, there should be a spider in it!

#26 1 year ago

I just took a look at my Team One donor game to see how thick the webbing was. Surprisingly it doesn't have webbing, it has a speckle pattern instead.

Was there a methodology Gottleib used to decide which games got webbing and which got splatter? Did it vary from game to game or was it just dependent on the era it was produced.

I used to have a Centigrade 37 which was also made in 1977 like Team One and it was speckled so maybe speckling vs webbing was based on the year it was produced?

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from docquest:

Was there a methodology Gottleib used to decide which games got webbing and which got splatter?

In the 60s most of the Gottlieb games were webbed. In the 70s it transitioned to spatter. But there was a period around 73-74-75 where some were spatter and some were webbing.

I believe Ken is following how the Abra Ca Dabra cabinets were produced which was with webbing.

I’m in on a kit and will be putting mine in a shallow cabinet with webbing.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from docquest:

I just took a look at my Team One donor game to see how thick the webbing was. Surprisingly it doesn't have webbing, it has a speckle pattern instead.
Was there a methodology Gottleib used to decide which games got webbing and which got splatter? Did it vary from game to game or was it just dependent on the era it was produced.
I used to have a Centigrade 37 which was also made in 1977 like Team One and it was speckled so maybe speckling vs webbing was based on the year it was produced?

They seemed to have switched to spatter at some point. Oddly, there are two examples where the add-a-ball and replay versions had one with webbing, and the other with spatter.

#29 1 year ago

"Free Fall"/"Sky Jump" and "Pin-Up"/"King Pin".

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeO:

In the 60s most of the Gottlieb games were webbed. In the 70s it transitioned to spatter. But there was a period around 73-74-75 where some were spatter and some were webbing.
I believe Ken is following how the Abra Ca Dabra cabinets were produced which was with webbing.
I’m in on a kit and will be putting mine in a shallow cabinet with webbing.

Mine will be in the going on the Team One cabinet so I'll stick with splatter and assume this is what a Wizard might have looked like if Gottleib actually built them in 1977.

Plus I'm never done webbing before so I find speckling way less intimidating to do than webbing.

#31 1 year ago

Here is my first completed side of Wizard (shallow Abra cab) Colors are Molotow Signal yellow and Molotow Burgundy.

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#32 1 year ago

Here's a scan of all the labels on the bottom board... Im asking Peter Koch to do a recreate on these and stuff them in one file, as well as the three fuse labels needed on the bottom side of the pf.

And just checked the hold relay... probably still functions but a little crispy, will replace

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#33 1 year ago

Ken that looks fabulous I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas. Looking at the front of my Abra. I’m amazed how rough the paint work was hopefully we don’t need to replicate the drip by the shooter. . Again Ken great work!

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#34 1 year ago
Quoted from Judoratt:

Ken that looks fabulous I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas. Looking at the front of my Abra. I’m amazed how rough the paint work was hopefully we don’t need to replicate the drip by the shooter. . Again Ken great work!
[quoted image]

I'll leave the drip and the miss-aligned red and yellow piece bottoms off of yours.

#35 1 year ago

I bite the bullet and broke out my router and cut the slot for the coin chute.... a bit of a pain.

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#36 1 year ago

Ok gang now the fun stuff, reworking the lightboard, a littlr complicated. Will add writeup for all the Notes Ive tagged

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#37 1 year ago

I have read through this post and it is fascinating. Am I to understand that this pinball is being remade and is for sale? Give me the details.

#38 1 year ago
Quoted from reynolds531:

I have read through this post and it is fascinating. Am I to understand that this pinball is being remade and is for sale? Give me the details.

Full details are in this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/who-wants-a-gottlieb-wizard-conversion-kit

Basically Im taking a Gottlieb TeamOne base game, changing playfield and backglass to make a Gottlieb "Wizard". Gottlieb made a small number of Wizards in 1971, most went to Europe. the backglass was the basis for the 1975 Abracadabra game. TeamOne has the same layout but is the "Add a Ball" version.

I am selling DIY kits (you'll need a TeamOne game) as well as full games. I have "sold out" but I expect to have 3-4 more pieces, will add folks to a waiting list.

I am sitting on 11 TeamOnes right now (plus my sample game) and have pre-sold 13 complete games (I need two more TeamOnes). I expect to complete 1-2 games per month so I have a little time to find the extra 2 games.

#39 1 year ago

Ok gang, Wade's playfields and backglasses have now been approved!!! Time to get busy. First I got to arrange shipment from Fresno...

In the shop tonight, putting together Wizard 8001

writeup on the lightboard mods tomorrow

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#40 1 year ago

Ok gang light baffle. Probably about 2 days, 12 hours to build this piece.

Step 1. Remove light board from head, demount the old particle board light baffle from the plywood backer. There will be 4 or 5 nails to be removed.

Step 2 Attach new light baffle to backer. use wood glue and clamps, maybe a nail gun.

Step 3 Drill out the hinge mounting hole from the back and then countersink from the front

Step 4 Hole drilling. Ideally 15/32nds but the only brad bit i had was a 1/2 inch. You'll want to use a wood cutter with sharp points on the edges to get clean holes. Here's a cheap set from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Max-Craft-Brad-Point-Drilling-Hardwood-Softwood. If you slow up on the drill as you punch through the back you'll get a cleaner exit without too much chipping. (You can stop half way through, drill a 1/8 inch pilot then drill from the backside and you'll have no chipping but its a lot of work.)

I drilled all the needed holes first then did the wiring. Next post to cover wiring...

Blue circles represent new socket holes, Xs represent abandoned holes, plug as necessary.

We will use staple sockets, can resuse some or just use all new from PBR, about 20 needed

No dimensions given for hole placement, not that critical. I set the light board on three gallon paint cans as a stand. A couple of new holes were near existing stuff so I would drill a 1/8 pilot hole first to check interference

Note 1 Eyes for the monster. The mounting holes for the relay stand are right in this location. Unclip all the relays and remove stand. Stand needs to be positioned 1/2 inch up. The top relay will get close to the reel cage, ensure you have clearance from the coil leads (I trimmed the coil lugs a little). Drill pilot holes for the new stand location. And then drill two socket holes for the eyes.

Note 2 Previous high score lite box, one existing hole was in a good spot, added a 2nd hole for the box

Note 3 New hole in the Tilt box

Note 4. The balls in play boxes need to shift over. Drill a new for "5". Number 4 is a little low in the box but there is a jones plug right in the way making it a little difficult to move up.

Note 5 I actually drilled 2 holes for the new game over box, there is a ground braid right in the middle so drilled either side

Note 6 Ill cover this in wiring

Note 7 General illumination for the Wizard. I ended up with 7 sockets for lighting the Wizard, two lower down, at the same level as the abandoned. see drill pic. And also one up to lite the raised arm

Note 8 WOW boxes, 3 new holes, reused 2

Note 9 new hole for blue orb. and new hole for 200K

Note 10 new hole for the 100K lamp. if the old holes are cover by the new baffle I dont bother plugging

Note 11 New hole for the 900K lamp

Note 12 New hole for the 900K lamp

Added additional lamp socket in the smaller general illumination box

I did use a flat white spray to paint the board after all the changes. In the pic I havnt picked out all the tape balls I used to plug the sockets (yet)

In the production light baffle the monstor eyes will be separate compartments. i like to use two flasher bulbs for the eyes. i'll need to add a little divider.

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#41 1 year ago

Ok wiring for all the new/moved sockets

It helps greatly to have a copy of the TeamOne schematic handy to confirm the leads by the color codes.

Lots of pictures. I ad hoc'ed the ground braid as necessary.

Note 1 the eye sockets need to be wire to the game over lead.

Note 2 Previous high score, general illumination..

Note 3 Tilt, move lead to new lamp location

Note 4 Shift all the ball in play light leads down one to the left (looking from the back)

Note 5 Wire GO lead to new sockets

Note 6 Wade has suggested we extinguish "Balls to Play" at game over. No really good way to do this since GO is a rivet point on the stepper, no GO relay to get a opening contact... open to suggestions could add a relay that is driven off of the opening point on the back of the stepper.

Note 7 General illumination... wire up the 3 or four new sockets

Note 8 WOW leads shift, you'll need to extend some of the leads to reach. You can pull on the leads and get a 1/2 inch if close.

Note 9 New GO feature. I ran a new lead down the central harness to pick up the game over feed.

Note 10 100K lamp lead extended

Note 11 900K lamp lead extended/re-positioned

Note 12 800K lamp lead re-positioned

Ok I tend to be brief in my descriptions, please prove feedback. Of course it will be a month before folks will be doing this. i needed to write this up as I just did it of course.

Relay bracket mounting showing re-positioned, I also added washes underneath to elevate the stand foot, to give clearance from lamp sockets.
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coil lead clearance

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GO double socket

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Lots of wiring in the 100k, 200k area. I used some half inch dowel to plug the abandoned holes. of course the old holes were 15/32nds, drilled them out with my 1/2 inch bit to make the dowel stock I had work.
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#42 1 year ago

Ken any thoughts about manufacturer certificate and serial numbers on top of the back box?

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#43 1 year ago
Quoted from Judoratt:

Ken any thoughts about manufacturer certificate and serial numbers on top of the back box?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yep, Peter has made me up a batch of Certs and I had a bunch of stencils made up for the serial numbers, large for top of head, medium for support brace, small for cab front

Here's a game close to completion.

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#44 1 year ago

Well I am impressed!!

#45 1 year ago

Ok gang I got a couple of sample backglasses shipped in, added one to the game under construction. Folks will see this at the Allentown show.

Wades work is just amazing, Im blown away how nice this has turned out.

Im arranging for shipment of the glasses and playfields from Wade in CA to me here in Dallas. Ive got a free ride with a friend making a run out there but will have to wait 2 weeks. Then will need to get 15 of the pf's clearcoated. That will add another 2 weeks to the process. Looking at mid to late May to get it into the kit buyers hands.

There are 3 addition pf/bg pairs as overruns (above the 25) but the glasses have slight surface scratches (not in the paint), sold as a "2nd". I am taking names for the waiting list. The price will be $1500 (plus shipping), will show pics of the glass offered. And im only going to start selling to the list once all the kits are delivered successfully.

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Here the WOWs are all lit, the 5 red orbs
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The game
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At game over We have the monsters eyes lighting up as well a moon, normally outfitted with 455 blinky bulbs
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#46 1 year ago

Looks incredible.

#47 1 year ago

Took a moment to use my paint stencils to add a serial numbers. Front of the cab might be a little on the large size..

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#48 1 year ago

And a minor hack needed for the lightboard. Back when Gottlieb built these games plywood was a full .75 inches. The new lightboards that will come with the kits is actually a 1/16th thinner.

This then has the backglass a little loose int the headbox. My hack/solution is to use washers on the hinge screws to move the board in tight to the glass (qty 4 washers on each machine screw).

Also I found the L brackets at the top that serve as a stop need to be bent forward and the swivel arm end is bent out slightly to get a tighter fit.

Also didnt help that my lightboard had a good warp to it.

There was a concern that the reels/cage would hit the back of the glass. Comes up just flush with the new board. As long as you use an appropriate felt (I used the fuzzy side of Velcro) then should be no issue.

Fighting with the credit unit tonight, doesnt want to add credits when I have it set to 2 games per coin. We hates the half moon credit unit...

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#49 1 year ago

Spent the last three days building another pf for a game going to Wizards World. Game is painted. Next to rework the lightboard..

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#50 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Took a moment to use my paint stencils to add a serial numbers. Front of the cab might be a little on the large size..[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The serial numbers are are nice especially the front cab. I like the details on the coin door, paint on the logo, NOS red start button and PBR keyed locks. You really don’t miss much great work Ken!

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