Do you want to have scores of 200,000 and up show on your Team One (or Wizard)? Watch this video:
Dave Metrando and I present the thought processes and what to look for on the schematic. If you can do the Wizard conversion, you probably have the skills needed to set up the combination of Add-A-Ball Mode and super-high scores.
.................David Marston
One of my favorite things about Team One is the scoring up to 1,000,000 I wish all EM's had those features.
Quoted from dmarston:Do you want to have scores of 200,000 and up show on your Team One (or Wizard)? Watch this video:
Dave Metrando and I present the thought processes and what to look for on the schematic. If you can do the Wizard conversion, you probably have the skills needed to set up the combination of Add-A-Ball Mode and super-high scores.
.................David Marston
Quoted from pins4life33:One of my favorite things about Team One is the scoring up to 1,000,000 I wish all EM's had those features.
1,999,990 I'll have you know!
The late 70s aabs for gtb had this, Neptune and lucky hand come to mind besides Wiz
Quoted from pinhead52:1,999,990 I'll have you know!
The late 70s aabs for gtb had this, Neptune and lucky hand come to mind besides Wiz
But only in "novelty" mode. You'll need to perform a modification, per the Pintastic seminar video, in order to record scores over 199,990 in add-a-ball mode.
Quoted from dmarston:Do you want to have scores of 200,000 and up show on your Team One (or Wizard)? Watch this video:
Dave Metrando and I present the thought processes and what to look for on the schematic. If you can do the Wizard conversion, you probably have the skills needed to set up the combination of Add-A-Ball Mode and super-high scores.
.................David Marston
Thanks Dave & Dave for the seminar and posting it here. As an owner of TO and proud owner of the conversion kit, I look forward to executing this mod.
Oh haven’t rolled it yet now you got me curious.
Quoted from pinhead52:1,999,990 I'll have you know!
The late 70s aabs for gtb had this, Neptune and lucky hand come to mind besides Wiz
Quoted from Dono:Thanks Dave & Dave for the seminar and posting it here. As an owner of TO and proud owner of the conversion kit, I look forward to executing this mod.
I think Brian Hawkins and I will attempt to do the mod as well. From my inspection of the Team One schematic, I recommend that you plan on leaving the Play Mode adjustment plug in the Add-A-Ball position, and break out the 100K step-up as discussed in the seminar. Choose which function (Wow Count or 100Ks) will be on the new stepper unit based on what stepper you have available.
Here are some observations specific to Team One. The general setup of Team One is very similar to Neptune (but simpler) in the areas relative to the mod. One notable difference: the Ball Count Unit on Team One resets to the zero position and steps up ball by ball, with Game Over being at step 6, as it would be on a replay game of that era. The lights have been reversed, as can be seen at 4A to 4C on the schematic.
AX and JX are interlock relays that have the same function as discussed in the seminar. The AX Reset line can be seen at row 14 of the schematic. It's the same as Neptune except that the Ball Count Unit must be at 0 rather than 6. The new stepper will need to have its zero-position switch added in line as discussed beginning at 32:25 in the seminar video.
Adding wows, and the associated knocking, would still be handled by the orange-blue wire seen at 9E. That wire goes to the add coil on whichever unit you designate as the Wow Count Unit. The carry-over from 10Ks to 100Ks is the white-red wire seen at 10E. That wire goes to the add coil on whichever unit you designate as the 100K Unit, and also to JX to allow flexibility of score awards, as discussed in the seminar. The adventurous modder who has a spare interlock relay in stock could also have differing score levels in the 200K range by cascading JX with another interlock relay. With this extra mod, you could have extra balls awarded at 70K, 150K, 240K, 340K, 440K, etc. as an example.
I suppose you could do the cascading interlock relays without the additional stepper unit if you don't expect scores to get very far into the hundred thousands.
Many of the other pins in the Play Mode adjustment plug pertain to the outlandish giveaway of points associated with Novelty Mode. These would thwart the designer's intent if applied in Add-A-Ball Mode, and that's a separate discussion about how generous you want your game to be.
.................David Marston
Quoted from dmarston:I think Brian Hawkins and I will attempt to do the mod as well. From my inspection of the Team One schematic, I recommend that you plan on leaving the Play Mode adjustment plug in the Add-A-Ball position, and break out the 100K step-up as discussed in the seminar. Choose which function (Wow Count or 100Ks) will be on the new stepper unit based on what stepper you have available.
Here are some observations specific to Team One. The general setup of Team One is very similar to Neptune (but simpler) in the areas relative to the mod. One notable difference: the Ball Count Unit on Team One resets to the zero position and steps up ball by ball, with Game Over being at step 6, as it would be on a replay game of that era. The lights have been reversed, as can be seen at 4A to 4C on the schematic.
AX and JX are interlock relays that have the same function as discussed in the seminar. The AX Reset line can be seen at row 14 of the schematic. It's the same as Neptune except that the Ball Count Unit must be at 0 rather than 6. The new stepper will need to have its zero-position switch added in line as discussed beginning at 32:25 in the seminar video.
Adding wows, and the associated knocking, would still be handled by the orange-blue wire seen at 9E. That wire goes to the add coil on whichever unit you designate as the Wow Count Unit. The carry-over from 10Ks to 100Ks is the white-red wire seen at 10E. That wire goes to the add coil on whichever unit you designate as the 100K Unit, and also to JX to allow flexibility of score awards, as discussed in the seminar. The adventurous modder who has a spare interlock relay in stock could also have differing score levels in the 200K range by cascading JX with another interlock relay. With this extra mod, you could have extra balls awarded at 70K, 150K, 240K, 340K, 440K, etc. as an example.
I suppose you could do the cascading interlock relays without the additional stepper unit if you don't expect scores to get very far into the hundred thousands.
Many of the other pins in the Play Mode adjustment plug pertain to the outlandish giveaway of points associated with Novelty Mode. These would thwart the designer's intent if applied in Add-A-Ball Mode, and that's a separate discussion about how generous you want your game to be.
.................David Marston
How about using an extra score reel with its board to drive the lights? The advantage is you could easily incorporate it into the startup seq as a 5th reel. Of course the reel isnt visable. And reels are a lot easier to find then a stepper. Also simpler to visualize/incorporate...
Quoted from pinhead52:How about using an extra score reel with its board to drive the lights? The advantage is you could easily incorporate it into the startup seq as a 5th reel. Of course the reel isnt visable. And reels are a lot easier to find then a stepper. Also simpler to visualize/incorporate...
adding a relay you could get it to click on at 1M, and then achieve 1.2 1.3 1.4 mil etc
Quoted from dmarston:I think Brian Hawkins and I will attempt to do the mod as well. From my inspection of the Team One schematic, I recommend that you plan on leaving the Play Mode adjustment plug in the Add-A-Ball position, and break out the 100K step-up as discussed in the seminar. Choose which function (Wow Count or 100Ks) will be on the new stepper unit based on what stepper you have available.
Here are some observations specific to Team One. The general setup of Team One is very similar to Neptune (but simpler) in the areas relative to the mod. One notable difference: the Ball Count Unit on Team One resets to the zero position and steps up ball by ball, with Game Over being at step 6, as it would be on a replay game of that era. The lights have been reversed, as can be seen at 4A to 4C on the schematic.
AX and JX are interlock relays that have the same function as discussed in the seminar. The AX Reset line can be seen at row 14 of the schematic. It's the same as Neptune except that the Ball Count Unit must be at 0 rather than 6. The new stepper will need to have its zero-position switch added in line as discussed beginning at 32:25 in the seminar video.
Adding wows, and the associated knocking, would still be handled by the orange-blue wire seen at 9E. That wire goes to the add coil on whichever unit you designate as the Wow Count Unit. The carry-over from 10Ks to 100Ks is the white-red wire seen at 10E. That wire goes to the add coil on whichever unit you designate as the 100K Unit, and also to JX to allow flexibility of score awards, as discussed in the seminar. The adventurous modder who has a spare interlock relay in stock could also have differing score levels in the 200K range by cascading JX with another interlock relay. With this extra mod, you could have extra balls awarded at 70K, 150K, 240K, 340K, 440K, etc. as an example.
I suppose you could do the cascading interlock relays without the additional stepper unit if you don't expect scores to get very far into the hundred thousands.
Many of the other pins in the Play Mode adjustment plug pertain to the outlandish giveaway of points associated with Novelty Mode. These would thwart the designer's intent if applied in Add-A-Ball Mode, and that's a separate discussion about how generous you want your game to be.
.................David Marston
Thanks for the details... definitely some options available. I modded my game a few years ago to award 5K for lit target hits after 5 wows are reached, utilizing an additional relay to handle the brunt of that logic.. this is a bit more lengthy but not terrible. Again, thanks for providing the background and video Dave n Dave!!!
Quoted from pinhead52:How about using an extra score reel with its board to drive the lights?
Quick answers:
It would get you scores up to 999K, which is probably enough. The add 100K function would be using the white-red wire I already mentioned. If you want end-of-stroke functionality, note that this new reel would be driven off relay L (same as the 10K reel) for end-of-stroke purposes.
You could probably think of some creative uses for the 9th position switch on the reel. Like add a 1 million interlock relay that works like JX and lights the "1,000,000" light in the backglass. If you do that, you have to reset the interlock parallel to resetting JX.
Driving the lights off the board should be fine.
The part that needs some design work is resetting this new reel. Note that unlike the stepper-unit subtract coil we discuss in the seminar, you must run the add coil upward to zero, and have a switch that closes at zero rather than opens, plus the other zero position switch that opens to stop pulses from going to that reel. All of that must be isolated from the logic that adds 100K during game play (i.e., no back paths through the reset circuit). That may very well push the situation over the edge and force the splitting of AX into two reset relays, as we mention in the seminar. Splitting AX would mean additional design work; I think you want the one doing score reels subservient to the "main" AX, but I haven't worked through all the implications.
.................David Marston
Quoted from dmarston:Quick answers:
It would get you scores up to 999K, which is probably enough. The add 100K function would be using the white-red wire I already mentioned. If you want end-of-stroke functionality, note that this new reel would be driven off relay L (same as the 10K reel) for end-of-stroke purposes.
You could probably think of some creative uses for the 9th position switch on the reel. Like add a 1 million interlock relay that works like JX and lights the "1,000,000" light in the backglass. If you do that, you have to reset the interlock parallel to resetting JX.
Driving the lights off the board should be fine.
The part that needs some design work is resetting this new reel. Note that unlike the stepper-unit subtract coil we discuss in the seminar, you must run the add coil upward to zero, and have a switch that closes at zero rather than opens, plus the other zero position switch that opens to stop pulses from going to that reel. All of that must be isolated from the logic that adds 100K during game play (i.e., no back paths through the reset circuit). That may very well push the situation over the edge and force the splitting of AX into two reset relays, as we mention in the seminar. Splitting AX would mean additional design work; I think you want the one doing score reels subservient to the "main" AX, but I haven't worked through all the implications.
.................David Marston
I would just daisy chain the reel off of the 10K reel. use the same pules, wired thru middle contact it would stop at zero etc. It just seems logical to extend it from 4 reels to 5 reels. And extra reels are readily available...
May have to pick on my sample Wizard for this mod.
I just probed several of the 100K-1M lights with a multimeter, and found they do indeed trace back to the score reel. Glad I pinged pinhead52 about this! Now to figure out the reasons behind all the other differences between my game and the schematic...
Ok reviewing a TeamOne schematic... it seems pretty straight forward to add a 5th reel.
The reset, similar to the 10K reel, the 100K reel would be pulse thru its runout switch. I would just utilize the existing AX contact for the 10K reel for the 100K reel (too much load for a single contact?)
On the drive side of things, move the JX function to 1M lamp function, turned on by the 9th position on the 100K reel. And then drive the 100K reel from the 9s rollover or do we add a "K" relay (N, M, L,...)? Probably add a relay to better emulate the other 4 reels.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngAs you can see, each score reel has its own switch on AX for the reset function. This is to prevent inadvertant scoring during game play. The reset line for each reel must be isolated to avoid back-paths.
If you convert JX to be the 1 million relay, then you can only set thresholds for wows awarded on score to a particular 10K increment (or two) that would be the same for each 100k block. You can't use the disc on the 100K unit for different scoring thresholds because it is in use driving the lights.
I like the idea of a K relay for the 10K reel. But if you're open to the idea of adding more relays, think about splitting AX first. Another strong consideration is leaving JX to do what it currently does and adding a new interlock relay (call it MX, say) for the million point light.
.................David Marston
Quoted from dmarston:As you can see, each score reel has its own switch on AX for the reset function. This is to prevent inadvertant scoring during game play. The reset line for each reel must be isolated to avoid back-paths.
If you convert JX to be the 1 million relay, then you can only set thresholds for wows awarded on score to a particular 10K increment (or two) that would be the same for each 100k block. You can't use the disc on the 100K unit for different scoring thresholds because it is in use driving the lights.
I like the idea of a K relay for the 10K reel. But if you're open to the idea of adding more relays, think about splitting AX first. Another strong consideration is leaving JX to do what it currently does and adding a new interlock relay (call it MX, say) for the million point light.
.................David Marston
Great info. For my game, I'm going with no additional free balls on score (keeping recommended free ball scores as is). Will add an additional score reel and drive that with logic similar to what's been discussed for the lights. No need for a 1M light, since it's highly unlikely 1M scores would be accomplished. Will think about options to drive and reset the reel, will be interesting.
Quoted from Dono:Great info. For my game, I'm going with no additional free balls on score (keeping recommended free ball scores as is). Will add an additional score reel and drive that with logic similar to what's been discussed for the lights. No need for a 1M light, since it's highly unlikely 1M scores would be accomplished. Will think about options to drive and reset the reel, will be interesting.
Yea the AX relay is pretty full, cant add an extra blade (easily?)
But yea unless you have 50K targets you'll be hard pressed to get very far... (change the 5K scoring to 50K 
)
Quoted from pinhead52:Yea the AX relay is pretty full, cant add an extra blade (easily?)
Dave Metrando and I discuss this issue starting at 36:00 in the video, but we don't give details about splitting AX into two relays.
.................David Marston
Wizards 8 and 9 are done and will get delivered at Chicago Expo. Also I restored an Abra, Wade pf, Webb glass that will be for sale at the show.
And an Italian FB buddy sent me a pic of a local knockoff of the original Wizard bg from 1971
Starting to work on Wizards 10 and 11. Will pick up 2 TeamOnes at Expo that will be 12 and 13. And I have a wait list for the last three as soon as I find more TeamOnes...
20220915_105758_resized (resized).jpgpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from dr_nybble:With multiple machines to do, makes sense to use a laser cut or CNC hardboard or brass stencil! Reusable. Would look more authentic than a vinyl stencil.
Yea, I do have oilboard stock, could have cut my own. I use this for my KoD repaints, fuzzy edges.
I havnt found a resource with a big enough bed to cut 1 piece stencils, at least not locally.
20190514_180557 (resized).jpgWizard #12 serial 8025 complete... moving on to lucky 13.
Need one more TeamOne for Wiz #16 (have them for 13 14 15)
AND I am in search of a Wade Abra pf for another restore April timeframe...
And looking to build another Evel Knievel EM, anybody want one?
20230104_101829_resized (resized).jpg20230106_095411_resized (resized).jpg
20230104_101846_resized (resized).jpgWizard #14 now complete and awaiting shipping, the last of the shallow cabs. Two more to build but I need one more TeamOne to build #16
And Jay at ipdb has honored me with an entry for Wizard...
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=6994
20230213_170012_resized (resized).jpgI’ve asked pinside’s administrators to add it to their list as well, but they refused and wanted me just to use the 1971 version for my collection listing. They will list one-off home brews but not this authorized revamp. Maybe if more people make the request to add it as a separate model and a 4 or 5/2022 date they will reconsider
Quoted from pinhead52:Jay at ipdb has honored me with an entry for Wizard...
That's so cool!
Quoted from bangerjay:Took my cabinet in a different direction, gave it to a local artist and said do whatever you want..
[quoted image]
That’s awesome man!
Well gang a fun little project. Today I built/finnished the final Wizard, about 2 weeks start to finish. Being number 16 (17 if you count the sample game I made up) Ive had some serious practice doing it.
28 pieces from Wade released last April. 12 sold as DIY kits, and 16 sold as complete games. Amazing I could find the TeamOnes and the willing buyers.
Jay at ipdb.org has honored me with an entry https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=7010
It was quite the learning experience and Im very appreciative of the response from the pinball community.
Picture below is of serial 8028. I started at 8001 (I think Shay got that one, delivered at 2022 Allentown). The DIYers were assigned serial numbers (paint stencils) in the low numbers and most of my builds were 8016 and up.
I know of 3 DIYs finishing their builds, love to see pictures from more builds. MikeO gitter done!
I have one Wizard left, the original sample game I put together with a reworked Abra pf (Wade added a couple of inserts for me)
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/161339
End of my Wizard era. Thanks again to everybody that supported me.
Now to get busy and build some more Bally Evel Knievel EMs (from Night Riders). Ive done two so far, and now orders for 3 more.
20230728_171900_resized (resized).jpgQuoted from ChipS:Are you taking orders for the Evel Knievel EM? How much are they?
Yes I am. $8750. Send me a PM and we can chat. Here's the two clones, an original EK EM and a SS lined up at TPF 2022
20220325_121731 (resized).jpgThanks for doing the project mine is never leaving and gets showcased every year at our show. Such an awesome machine!
A special thanks to you Ken for taking on this project. I a very fortunate and proud to have a Ken Head Wizard in my collection. Also Wade Krause for his craftsmanship and attention to detail. Last but not least Tyammry for introducing me to the project early on and his advice on this .
IMG_0653 (resized).jpegI was tempted to get a kit, but probably too late.
Love that you (pinhead52) took on such a project
but glad I will still have an original Team One
to play, if I ever pull it out of storage
and get it up and running.
It is one of my top ten favorite EM games as far as game play.
Quoted from drypaint:So glad I was able to sneak in on the last one... 8028.
This was the coolest game at Golden State Pinball Festival. Congrats on getting one!
Quoted from pins4life33:Thanks for doing the project mine is never leaving and gets showcased every year at our show. Such an awesome machine!
I can attest! It fully deserved its spot on the main stage.
For those that have done the conversion, I am interesting in how the repro playfields are holding up in terms of dimpling. I have a Jumping Jack repro that was terribly dimpled forcing me to purchase a protector. Just about ready to start my Wizard conversion, so I am curious how these PFs are holding up. Anyone out there care to comment, I am all ears.
Quoted from Dono:I am curious how these PFs are holding up
I completed mine (8007) in May 0f 2022, just in time to bring it to Golden State. I brought it back again this year and it has seen hundreds of plays between those two shows and my game room. As my goal was to keep it as close to the way it would have been, if Gottlieb had built it, I did not have it clear-coated. It has held up very well and shows no wear.
Quoted from Mthomasslo:I completed mine (8007) in May 0f 2022, just in time to bring it to Golden State. I brought it back again this year and it has seen hundreds of plays between those two shows and my game room. As my goal was to keep it as close to the way it would have been, if Gottlieb had built it, I did not have it clear-coated. It has held up very well and shows no wear.
Very glad to hear it!
Quoted from docquest:I got sidetracked with other projects but I'm trying to get my conversion done in time for Pintastic show Sept 7-10.
Doing the playfield swap at the moment.[quoted image]
Hey have a look at your pbr batch of drop targets. They had a minor issue with the hot stamp machine. Steve sent me a new set (but not before I installed these.)
20230722_121959_resized (resized).jpgQuoted from dmarston:You can play this game at Pintastic New England Sept. 7-10.
.................David Marston
It might even have a topper on it!
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