Twisted Pins stencils are garbage.


By kbliznick

2 years ago


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There are 130 posts in topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 2 years ago

Was halfway through a set of Mystic stencils from them and they are completely unusable.

They did the artwork line to line, meaning that there is no color trapping or bleed underneath the two colors. They listed the orange color as the first color and yellow as the second (this should have been the first clue that something was wrong). with the amount of adjacent areas between those 2 colors there is no freaking way I can get the second stencil color properly aligned to the first, even with cutting the side piece into 3 separate pieces. I contacted Twisted Pins about this 5 weeks ago. They said they would make me a new set of the second color with the second color overlapping 1/8" where ever it would contact the first color (this would actually fix the set for everyone in the future as they would use the yellow as the first color and have the trapping in place). But now 3 seperate emails have gone unanswered as far as an ETA to getting them.

Unbelievable as I have this game apart as a restoration for a customer and now the project is dead in the water until I can find another set of stencils.

I find it hard to believe that a company selling these doesn't understand how a stencil works. Makes me wonder if they have ever actually tried using a set of their stencils.

#2 2 years ago

F@ck Twisted Pins. They screwed the pooch on WH2O toppers, they have screwed up my Mystic, and they expect me to trust them with RAMPS?!

#3 2 years ago

I had the twisted pins stencil and spent 3 hours cutting it up and applying pieces to make it work. BTW I switched the red for orange on purpose

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#4 2 years ago

TP Quality control, Pfffffffffft. My now unique HS

IMG_20140712_201600.jpg
#5 2 years ago

that doesn't even make sense?!

They didn't just mix up the left and right sides. If they did that the white "williams" logo would be near the flipper buttons over the car.

They mixed up the left and right yet somehow still got the Williams logo at the back of the machine where it's supposed to be.

high speed flyer.jpg
#6 2 years ago

other side of cabinet

high speed left side.jpg
#7 2 years ago

Here is the picture on their website

http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?PageIndex=5&ProductID=85

I am guessing that they labelled the left and right side stencils wrong, and you didn't see this until you got to the white color and realized this in time to cut the stencil apart and move the logo so that it didn't end up under the siderail?

#8 2 years ago

An example of how stencils should be made with correct trapping and bleeds

http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=492

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Here is the picture on their website
http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?PageIndex=5&ProductID=85
I am guessing that they labelled the left and right side stencils wrong, and you didn't see this until you got to the white color and realized this in time to cut the stencil apart and move the logo so that it didn't end up under the siderail?

You would think that but the left side was perfect.

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

TP Quality control, Pfffffffffft. My now unique HS

IMG_20140712_201600.jpg 434 KB

I only did the front of my cab, the colors were in the wrong order and I had to cut the colors up to half ass register them. Total crap. I'll never buy from them again.

#11 2 years ago

A story we at Flipperescue have heard all too often... I got slammed by TP in a previous thread for suggesting their stencils were wrong.
We have in the past supplied individual stencils ( cabinet front, LHS etc) to customers here in Australia who have bought TP stencils, got half way through a restoration and realised that not only is the artwork wrong but will also never align properly.
It is an issue with those who make files quickly and use what I suspect is "Auto trace".
Flipperescue has always hand drawn their vector artwork allowing for overlay between colours.
Its not hard... just takes a bit of dedication to supply the proper artwork

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

TP Quality control, Pfffffffffft. My now unique HS

IMG_20140712_201600.jpg 434 KB

Has anyone reported variations in the actual machines? The reason I ask is that Williams seemed to be pretty fast & loose with the stencils on video games. Defender (video game, not pin) had a left and right side stencil, but there are a lot of them using a single stencil for both sides. It results in the soldier on the side facing the back of the machine.

Not even trying to defend/condemn Twisted Pins, but I think Williams were just cranking games out as fast as they could. Stencil issues/variations weren't considered important.

#13 2 years ago

I had similar problems with a Nine Ball stencil, wrong base color. I had already painted the base the correct color before noticing the problem. Royal PITA, not buying anything else from them.

#14 2 years ago

I would have thought that being a licensed product that PPS would not authorized reproductions unless they meet a standard of quality?

18
#15 2 years ago
Quoted from PopBumperPete:

I would have thought that being a licensed product that PPS would not authorized reproductions unless they meet a standard of quality?

If that were the case, Classic Arcades wouldn't exist.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from PopBumperPete:

I would have thought that being a licensed product that PPS would not authorized reproductions unless they meet a standard of quality?

That was Zenith's tagline before it was bought out by LG.
I think the new one is "We ship our crap all over the map".

#17 2 years ago

I just used Pinballpimp.com for a Fathom restoration that appear to have turned out well.. I would check with Jeff there about Bally stencils in the future...
I'm pretty sure Chris (HEP) is now using him for a run of Bally Centaurs he's getting read to do

#18 2 years ago

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#20 2 years ago
Quoted from Retropin:

It is an issue with those who make files quickly and use what I suspect is "Auto trace".

Autotrace is fine to start the files, but more work is necessary after the initial color seperation, which TP doesn't seem to do.

#21 2 years ago

I'm glad this thread popped up.

I was thinking of buying a couple stencil kits.

I know now to stay away from twisted pins.

#22 2 years ago

I'm waiting for the PinballPimp to release Haunted House stencils.......................

#23 2 years ago

Just did an Embryon using TP, the black on one side is just way out.

#24 2 years ago

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CA-541-SK

Are these stencils by TP? I need a set for my high speed and don't want a 'unique cab'

#25 2 years ago

Be warned the high speed stencils from classic arcades are even worse than TP.

#26 2 years ago

I would greatly appreciate learning more about stencils.

I'd like to learn what makes them GOOD and what makes them BAD.

If you can document what issues you've had, it would greatly help the 100's of us who are about to do our first ever stencil job, and we want to know what to look out for.

I am sitting on 4 sets of stencils, how can I begin to check to learn if what I have is accurate or not?

thanks,
mof

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I would greatly appreciate learning more about stencils.
I'd like to learn what makes them GOOD and what makes them BAD.
If you can document what issues you've had, it would greatly help the 100's of us who are about to do our first ever stencil job, and we want to know what to look out for.
I am sitting on 4 sets of stencils, how can I begin to check to learn if what I have is accurate or not?
thanks,
mof

Check to see how sticky the stencil is. My TP stencil was waaaay to sticky and pulled some paint off.

#28 2 years ago

Use Jeff from PinballPimpStencils.com of you want good quality, lisenced, etc. can't go wrong

Greg

#29 2 years ago

I had an issue with them on my Bally 8 Ball Stencils.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stencil-users-check-your-stencils-carefully

I bought them from Marco, and had to deal with TP to get it fixed.
They made it right, although the replacements were labeled incorrectly.
It was a frustrating experience because I had to re-sand, prime, paint...

If you can find someone else, it might be worth it to try someone other than TP.

13
#30 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I would greatly appreciate learning more about stencils.
I'd like to learn what makes them GOOD and what makes them BAD.
If you can document what issues you've had, it would greatly help the 100's of us who are about to do our first ever stencil job, and we want to know what to look out for.
I am sitting on 4 sets of stencils, how can I begin to check to learn if what I have is accurate or not?
thanks,
mof

Some quick notes

Don't sand off the original paint until you verify that the stencils you received are correct.
Remove the side rails (and everything else on the outside of the cabinet) to acheive the best results.
Verify the colors and color order when you receive the stencils. Verify the left and right sides by comparing to pictures on the IPDB. Most of the time lighter colors should be the first colors sprayed, but this might vary by game.
Verify how you are going to align each layer to the previous layers. Is it going to be on a specific corner of the cabinet. Mark it somehow and don't forget which one you used. Note that some stencils might have voids on the edges (look at the front edge on a Bally Playboy)
Visualize the stencils before applying the first set. Check out where the shooter rod and coin door and start button line up on the coin door side. Sometimes lining up a corner of the stencil to the corner of the cabinet does not put these in the correct spot. Sometimes this isn't obvious until you try to put on the second color so double check the locations of the objects on both colors.
Double check them before applying. I have seen left and right mixed up many times, I've seen coin door stencils put on upside down.
On larger stencils sometimes it is easier to cut them up into 2 or 3 or more smaller pieces and this will allow you to line up each smaller section for better accuracy.
After applying the second color stencils look to see where any errors in overlap are where the base color might show through where it's not supposed to, trim the stencil with an Exacto blade to fix this.

Also study the stencil and look for things that overlap between the 2 different colors where you can trim off the stencils on the first color. The best example of this is on the purple on the shooter springs on Playboy. Both the CA and TP stencils have little loops cut out of the purple where the black springs are going to be. The black will cover over the purple just fine, so don't leave in all the loops, just cut across on the purple layer so that you have a straight line and let the black define the spring edges.

On application, let each color dry for several days up to a week before applying the next color.
Spray several light coats on the stencil colors waiting 10 minutes between coats, and peel up the stencil immediately after the last coat while the paint is still wet. Never let the paint dry with the stencil still on.
Don't try to peel the stencils off the cabinet while in direct sunlight. Some stencil material grips really well and this will soften up and peel up the paint underneath.
When peeling the stencils in cold weather the stencil material is brittle and will break apart.
When peeling the stencils watch our for long skinny parts that are about to pull free, nothing worse than having it almost all the way off and having the stencil fall back into the cabinet on the wet paint.

Some notes on good and bad stencils.
Good stencils have proper bleeds so that the later layers lay slightly over the edges of the previous layer so that there are no gaps between them where the base coat can show. This allows for some minor alignment error when applying the stencils (pinball pimp shows examples of this one their Pinbot stencils on their website) Worse stencils are done line to line with no overlap so that you need to have the precision of 1/64" to not have the base color show through. (this is the standard for CA and TP)
Better stencils are made of lighter colors that you can see through so that you can properly align them to the previous layers. Worse ones are dark blue.
Better stencils have the right amount of adhesion so that you can pull up and reapply them several times until you have the best alignment.(I like the adhesion of the blue ones from Twisted Pins, but some people thing they have too much grip) Worse ones barely stick the first time and blow off as you spray the paint (Classic Arcades).
Better stencils match what is on the game, Worse ones reverse images when they aren't supposed to (TP High Speed). Or even worse yet, the layers don't align correctly to the prior layers ( I have seen this on the white layer on a CA High Speed stencils where the text aligned but the cop car lights are in the wrong spot. I believe CA has a repetitive problem of not sizing their stuff correctly (like maybe they forgot to check the box on the printer where it says print true size and instead it prints to fit the paper. I have seen insert decals from them printed at 90% of the correct size (Banzai Run). I've seen cabinet decals printed at 110% of the correct size (just the coin door side of Banzai Run cabinet decals).

#31 2 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Some quick notes...

Most generous. Anyone else?
-mof

#32 2 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Most generous. Anyone else?-mof

Yeah, let Mr Bliznick do your stencils since he knows his stuff.

#33 2 years ago

I just finished up a respray of my Flash gordon using TP stencils. My biggest issue was zero bleed around the center star area that i will have to go back and touch up. I will say TP stenciles are WAY better than the p.o.s Classic Arcade garbage. I used them on a Firepower last year and it was a nightmare compared to TP's. I do wish pinballpimp had been done with his Flash Gordon set in time for me to try them!
image-171.jpgimage-487.jpg

#34 2 years ago

I bought a Paragon stencil set from them and the stencil for the front of the cabinet was about 20 percent smaller than it should have been. I sent them measurements and although the second replacement they sent me was usable--I still had to trim and fudge it a bit.

I purchased a Space Invaders stencil set but checked them BEFORE I sanded and took the paint off the cabinets. Surprisingly the stencils were pretty good seeing that the cabinet artwork on SI is much more complicated than Paragon. They still required a little massaging to get them right though.

My main complaint is that there are no registration marks on the stencils. According to the directions, you are supposed to use the cabinet as a guide. I don't know about anyone else but my stencil sizes varied a bit, which made cabinet alignment difficult if not impossible. When I restored my Defender vid, I used Gamestencils and those stencils were much easier to use because they had registration marks which allowed you to properly align each stencil. They also give some nice step-by-step instructions on their site.

As far as the adhesive goes, I waited a week between each stencil spray just to be sure so there was no lifting in the paint.

In all, the cabinets look better than they did before but I'm starting to think twice about re-painting.

12
#35 2 years ago

Hey guys... I have been designing QUALITY stencils for over a decade now and am designing them as fast as I can. It's a long process to get them correct but when they are finished, they're a PERFECT digital art file!

Chris Hutchins @ High End Pins has bought 3 sets of EBD stencils from me and is very pleased! He will use my stencils for any restore I have stencils available for in the future. He wants me to do Centaur next and wants 4 sets himself. ( See Pics Attached of his recent EBD restore using my stencils )

The detail in Centaur & Space Invaders is so intricate, I would most likely charge between $199 - $229 for a set because of the time involved to cut and peel all the detail properly. I would probably have to have at least 20 people committed to buy them before tackling the big project... but can be done and look spectacular! Feedback?

I keep my website updated regularly as to what's stencils are coming next. I promise once you use my stencils and see the quality of artwork, precision and registration, you will never want to use any other stencils but mine!

Thanks, Jeff
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/

CH EBD side.jpg
CH EBD head.jpg
CH EBD front.jpg

#36 2 years ago

Any chance you'll be doing stencils for 8 ball deluxe LE any time soon?

#37 2 years ago
Quoted from swanng:

I'm waiting for the PinballPimp to release Haunted House stencils.......................

plan B - http://www.flipperescue.com/hh.htm

#38 2 years ago

Was going to order a stencil kit for Paragon from twisted but would rather wait for Jeff. Anyone else interested in a paragon stecil from Jeff? Count me in on a set... :-)

#39 2 years ago

Why do you have to deal with Marco's vendor of the stencils?

I've heard this story more than a few times now.

I should think since Marco sold them to you, he would be on the hook to make his customer happy.

Marco is your vendor. Twisted pins is Marco's vendor.

Quoted from Enaud:

I had an issue with them on my Bally 8 Ball Stencils.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stencil-users-check-your-stencils-carefully
I bought them from Marco, and had to deal with TP to get it fixed.
They made it right, although the replacements were labeled incorrectly.
It was a frustrating experience because I had to re-sand, prime, paint...
If you can find someone else, it might be worth it to try someone other than TP.

#40 2 years ago

Please oh pretty please do a set of Bally Rolling Stones stencils. =)

#41 2 years ago

damn, don't know what to do now, i'm about to order a space shuttle stencil for my restoration and the only one available i can find is classic arcade.

can anyone confirm if it's good or where can i get a better one, thanks.

#42 2 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

damn, don't know what to do now, i'm about to order a Space Shuttle stencil for my restoration and the only one available i can find is classic arcade.
can anyone confirm if it's good or where can i get a better one, thanks.

Ask here:
-mof
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-crew-members-club-prepare-for-liftoff

#43 2 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

plan B - http://www.flipperescue.com/hh.htm

I've ordered a set from them. I'll post back when I get them. Mike

#44 2 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

damn, don't know what to do now, i'm about to order a Space Shuttle stencil for my restoration and the only one available i can find is classic arcade.

Don't forget there are two different size backboxes for Shuttle, so you need to get the right stencil for yours.

#45 2 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

I just finished up a respray of my Flash gordon using TP stencils. My biggest issue was zero bleed around the center star area that i will have to go back and touch up. I will say TP stenciles are WAY better than the p.o.s Classic Arcade garbage. I used them on a Firepower last year and it was a nightmare compared to TP's. I do wish pinballpimp had been done with his Flash Gordon set in time for me to try them!

image-487.jpg 221 KB

image-171.jpg 174 KB

I'm hoping pinballpimp will have a FG set soon as I'd like to do the cabinet on mine, otherwise the game looks great.

#46 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

Hey guys... I have been designing QUALITY stencils for over a decade now and am designing them as fast as I can. It's a long process to get them correct but when they are finished, they're a PERFECT digital art file!
Chris Hutchins @ High End Pins has bought 3 sets of EBD stencils from me and is very pleased! He will use my stencils for any restore I have stencils available for in the future. He wants me to do Centaur next and wants 4 sets himself. ( See Pics Attached of his recent EBD restore using my stencils )
The detail in Centaur & Space Invaders is so intricate, I would most likely charge between $199 - $229 for a set because of the time involved to cut and peel all the detail properly. I would probably have to have at least 20 people committed to buy them before tackling the big project... but can be done and look spectacular! Feedback?
I keep my website updated regularly as to what's stencils are coming next. I promise once you use my stencils and see the quality of artwork, precision and registration, you will never want to use any other stencils but mine!
Thanks, Jeff
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/

CH EBD front.jpg 109 KB

CH EBD side.jpg 134 KB

CH EBD head.jpg 129 KB

PLEASE do Flash Gordon.

#47 2 years ago

CPR is taking orders for Paragon playfields - would love to have some quality stencils available as well.

#48 2 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

Was halfway through a set of Mystic stencils from them and they are completely unusable.
They did the artwork line to line, meaning that there is no color trapping or bleed underneath the two colors. They listed the orange color as the first color and yellow as the second (this should have been the first clue that something was wrong). with the amount of adjacent areas between those 2 colors there is no freaking way I can get the second stencil color properly aligned to the first, even with cutting the side piece into 3 separate pieces. I contacted Twisted Pins about this 5 weeks ago. They said they would make me a new set of the second color with the second color overlapping 1/8" where ever it would contact the first color (this would actually fix the set for everyone in the future as they would use the yellow as the first color and have the trapping in place). But now 3 seperate emails have gone unanswered as far as an ETA to getting them.
Unbelievable as I have this game apart as a restoration for a customer and now the project is dead in the water until I can find another set of stencils.
I find it hard to believe that a company selling these doesn't understand how a stencil works. Makes me wonder if they have ever actually tried using a set of their stencils.

When he changed from Oramask 811 to 813 is where I think his stencils went from being easy to apply to just about impossible to apply without wrinkling. The backing paper of the 813 is like tissue, it collapses when you try to lay the stencil on the cab. I asked him why he switched, he said his machine has a hard time cutting the 811. Well I had a hard time stenciling my FG with the crappy 813.

#49 2 years ago

Flash Gordon & Rolling Stones is coming REAL SOON. I am waiting for scans and it should not be that difficult to re-design.

Paragon and Centaur will most likely be on the list also.

Please keep checking my website as I will keep it updated and say what's coming soon!

Jeff

#50 2 years ago

Jeff what are the chance of getting you to make me a set for an Algar. Going for a top end restore for one I have coming in for the pintastic New England show. Obviously at 350 produced its not a common one

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