(Topic ID: 315791)

Who Dunnit Switch Help(SOLVED)

By Watkinsd13

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

I have a who Dunnit that has had issues to say the least but have been able to get everything working except for one switch and I am so lost.

Switch 36 is not working. I have checked and the emitter seems to be working fine but I can not get any reading from the receiver. I have reseated everything and also have a brand new 16 opto p.c.b. Board plugged in. When inspecting the 16 opto p.c.b. I noticed the wires in the connector are not in the same order as the manual but only one switch is not working so I don’t think that it is?

Also looking at the wires I found a wire looks like it had got pinched at some point that is green and orange, which is the switch that is not working but that is the wire for the emitter I believe.

I am attaching photos for reference. I am at a loss of what to do for this so open to any and all help. I’m also still not the smartest person with a multimeter so if you can explain things for a simpleton like myself hahaha.
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#3 1 year ago
Quoted from abjr:

I would check the pinched wire for continuity. From pin 9 on J5 to pin 3 on J207. It looks like the order is correct, the numbers tell you what pin, they don't have to be in order on the diagram. As for the multimeter switch it to ohms or upside down u. Connect red to one pin and black to the other you want it to go to 0 or some value (depending if you have it connect or not) if it stays at OL there is no continuity and a break in the wire. You can also youtube video on how to test continuity with an dmm.

I checked and it does have continuity. I checked the others while I was at it and seems like they all have continuity. Also I see now that the chart has them numbered in the order they should be. Thank you for pointing that out.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

Remove J207 and J209 headers from the MPU board.
Use a wire jumper to connect J209-7 with J207-3 on the MPU. If you can’t open and close the switch by jumping these two pins you have a problem on the MPU
Bad opto receiver or out of alignment on the ramp
No continuity from opto board to ramp receiver opto
A separated wire at one of the switches. Switches are daisy chained so;
Row wire is blue-white. Check every other switch in that row to make sure there isn’t a loose white/blue wire hangin nearby
Do the same for the column green-orange wire

So I jumped the pins like you said and I can open and close the switch so that is a move in the right direction!

I could be wrong but I do not think it is the receiver because it is a new one I installed but i could be wrong. I’m not really sure how to test the receiver. The emitter has the glow coming from it when I look through a camera. It is also registering the same as the other transmitters with the multimeter. I believe I’m testing the receiver right and getting nothing.

I will try and check for continuity from the Opto board to the receiver and will try tracing the wires you said above and look for brakes in the line.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from zaza:

In switch test T.1, you can short the "e" and "c" on the receiver-board. It should show switch #36 on the display

Makes since! Okay I did that and got nothing.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

You have a separated wire on one of your other switches

I will be home in about two hours and will get looking and give an update soon. Thank you!

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

It’s a new opto board right? To confirm a wire break you can jump pin 7 to pin 9 in the J5 wire harness for the opto board. (White blue to green orange) If that doesn’t trigger the switch you have a wire break

Correct it is a new Opto board.

You might have lost me on testing the wires. Are you saying to jump pin seven and nine on the Opto board to the wires in the harness under the playfield?

Sorry if I am misunder standing. I have not done the jumping before today. I will probably also by some more wire to create a long enough jump wire as well.

#12 1 year ago

Okay so we might have found it!

Literally the last switch I checked because it is the hardest one to get to but it’s a loose wire. Had to remove the entire back ramp but going to get this wired back and see where we are at.

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#13 1 year ago

Solved! So following following Column 3 down on the orange/green wire I found the grey/yellow wire was broke off. I could not see this at all because of where it was positioned. Upon lifting the ramp I could. Got it soldered back on and Wala! Got all the switch’s working.

Thank you for all the help!

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