Having an issue where balls coming from the sewer outlet bounce and drain through the right outlane. Not all the time, but enough to be annoying. Everything in that area is tightened down as it should be. Anyone else experiencing the same thing and/or have a solution?

Take your finger and pull up on the top of the sewer hole outlet.It most likely is broken and flexes up when the ball is shot out.

Just got done shopping and led'ing my who dunnit , looks and plays so much better ! New rubbers as well .

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At Boot-up Display says I have 2 fuses out, 12volt F112 and F115. Both fuses test good, corresponding LED on power board dark.
Any Ideas??
Looks like Im sending power driver board our for repairs?
Played great a week ago, this happened out of no where.

i would inspect the traces on the board , break out the meter and start following the power path !

maybe try a ribbon cable reset

I am restoring a roughed up Who Dunnit. The ramp flap is missing on the up/down ramp.

Can anyone help me with a close up photo of that? With a ruler allowing me to get an idea of the size.

Or help in other ways. The manual doesn't seem to have an exact part number.

These were measured as accurately as i could with the flap still attached. As you can see, the flap is not rectangular. After 10mm from the back it tapers down to 34mm << measured just at the start of the front rounded edges. Hope this helps

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Thanks a lot. Excelent help.

This reminds me: does anybody else get lots of air balls on this ramp flap?
About half of my strong shots up the train ramp result in spectacular launches. I think the roulette wheel is going to break one of these times--it really gets clobbered.

The flap appears to flush & straight against the playfield. I don't see anything amiss.

Thanks,
-Jason

I get air balls from mine, not as many as you though.

Been giving my machine some love lately:

1 - E-clip on the end of the shooter rod disappeared, picked up some snap ring & E-clips sets, & a tool (which I used to have...probably lost it at BattleBots last year...). One of the washers also disappeared, so I scrounged up a spare washer.
After rebuilding, there was lots of scraping & resistance in the shooter rod. I found the correct missing washer way in the back of the machine, rubbed the shooter rod shaft with Scotch-Brite, cleaned out the sleeve, reassembled. Nice & smooth! For some odd reason, I'm somehow good at the skill shot, so the binding was throwing me off...

2 - My AA batteries are on a daughterboard on standoffs at the bottom of the MPU PCB, but I've always remounted my batteries remotely, so this still seemed a little too close. Found this page, with a great & easy idea: http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=1710 . I ended up putting the AA PCB above the light panel hinge instead of underneath it as shown on that page. This leaves a little more strain relief on the wires.
Despite being careful & never removing a battery or unplugging the cable, I must have briefly accidentally cut the battery power during this task, because I was greeted with a Factory Settings reset. Darn. Goodbye, 12,744,799,180 high score! *sniff* Well, next time I top 12 bill, I'll be sure to actually enter my initials correctly--must have had the jitters...

3 - Finding the back of the machine dark, if I don't play in bright light, I can't see the cityscape on back of the PF. I dug through some LED light strips to see what I had. Most were 12V, 1 or 2 were 5V. The only colors that I have are red, blue, & yellow. Blue, definitely. A quick test on the 6.6VAC for GI made them light up nicely: not too bright, not too dim. And I wanted it tied to GI so that it would be off when the GI was off--it does flicker a bit, but not badly.
I tested to see if they looked OK placing on the top of the PF back panel, facing upward & getting gentle diffuse light. Nope, couldn't see the light at all.
Better placement was on the underside of the glass back channel.
Decision: run wire down to PF or up to backbox? It's a shorter wire run to the PCBs, but I didn't want to get into modifying the PCB or wiring harness--slightly more risk, & possibly frowned upon for not keeping the boards "virgin."
So, wired in to one of the GI bulb sockets next to the umbilical, lots of cable ties, up the cable management tube, then across to the side. Oops, I used wire with yellow insulation--you can see it when playing. Black Sharpie to the rescue!
It seemed a bit too bright & was lighting up a larger area of the PF than I expected it would, so I put 1 layer of blue painter's masking tape along the strip to dim it. A bit better--I'll play with tape further till it feels right.

The pictures make it look way more blue than it does when I'm playing.
Maybe another piece of opaque tape just in front of the strip to act as more of a shield, keeping the light only pointing down & towards the back. Yeah, that's tomorrow's project.

Thanks,
-Jason

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I Put a blacklight strip on mine and used a yellow highlighter pen on the windows, they show up real well

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Anyone have a picture or digital graphic of the SEWER OUTLET sticker? I need to make one, since mine is missing.

For the guys getting air ball on right ramp,check the lift linkage for ramp flap . When the linkage gets sloppy the ramp does not pull tight against playfield or it moves causing air balls. I was lucky enough to find a complete nos unit at a show after installing it I get no air balls

Weatherstripping to the rescue.
I stuck a strip just in front of the LED strip.
This cuts down the illumination on the upper playfield, lighting up pretty much just the back building art.
And this also blocks the reflection off the playfield.

Yay.

Pics of before (left) & after (right) adding weatherstripping on the blue LED strip. The area illuminated by blue has been cut down dramatically, lighting up pretty much just the cityscape. Before, the blue was overpowering many other colors, making for an odd palette.

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There are a few places where the weatherstripping adhesive layer was so kinked that it didn't stick down flat, so its shiny surface actually acts like little light pipes & channels a few small spots of blue life forward to the player.
I try to convince myself that it looks like stars, but I'm not very convincing, so I'll probably plug those paths with little bits of foam.

Good call. The mechanism under the PF seemed reasonably unsloppy.
On the top side, there was a bit of play where the linkage met the ramp--there's a stepped shaft, & the linkage hole was on a thinner part of the shaft, so there was a fair amount of rattle. I popped off the retaining clip, inserted a 2nd washer in the stack, & now the linkage hole is on the thicker part of the shaft.

Result: way way way better. Only one straight, fast, solid shot up the middle out of a couple dozen launched. I get some odd jumps when the shot is off-center, but they're more like a funky rejection than a dramatic daredevil leap.

Thanks,
-Jason

I keep having good games, then all the sudden my 12v 3amp fuse blows. Ive noticed during games the ball through keeps ejecting balls repeatedly. Then on power up says check 12v opto fuses 115 and 116, F116 repeatedly blows. Had game awhile before this gremlin showed up.
Cant figure this grelim out.
I also started a thread this morning and appears this has happened to many others.

All I know is Trixie is always up in my bidness.

yeah,BUT W?D

Time to join

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I have some complete target decal sets for sale for this machine if anyone is interested, they are laminated and i have had a set on my machine for nearly a year now, still look fantastic with all the games i've played on it. The price is $13 Aus (just under $10 US) plus a few bucks for postage (in a standard envelope, no tracking) or with tracking the cheapest option is registered mail envelope @ $16 Aus. Message me if anyone wants a set

As a huge Whodunnit fan (I am on my 10th W?D pin but this will never leave as I have gone a bit mad with it) I thought you may enjoy this article from Amusement business magazine in February 1996. It looks like (from the reviews) it was the greatest Pinball ever made

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If there is one close to me that is for sale, I'd like to hear about it.

Robert

Just joined yesterday - what a unique game.

Anyone know where to get the German sound roms? And would there be a game code rom for cpu to? Or, you just need the sound roms to make game all German speech?
Thanks

have a set of three slot reels for who dun nit NOS. if anyone is in need.

Working on my game now. The vinyl stuff on my rails was all chewed off so I just mailed them to Reese Rails do get done in oak!

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Cheers!, that's handy. I was going to send mine over to Reese as a template, my right hand rail is cracked right where the play field prop sits. These rails would look good in purple or blue i reckon.

Realised i never got around to putting a pic up of the topper background, also some pics of the target decals i designed

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I didn’t even think of that! My guess is he will do his glossy black which should look good as well.

Thanks for the heads up on the air ball cure, will try that shortly.
Here's to hoping they will remake the ramps someday, and ColorDmD.

This thing is not fun to take apart

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Edit: ok, I got it lol

Getting closer!

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I have a HUO WD that I really enjoy. Couple of issues I've had are the right reel sometimes keeps spinning and the flippers want to stick now and then. Still strong enough to send the ball into the glass off of the train ramp as mentioned before. The music and sound effects totally gets stuck in my head!

Binding of the flipper mech somewhere? As for the reel spinning i haven't had that issue yet, perhaps the opto needs a clean?

Where is switch #31 Trough Jam on Whodunnit? I don't see it anywhere on the ball trough.

My Whodunnit has been taken over by gremlins. When the first ball is in play and goes into the subway via the phone, sewer, or the upper center hole by the pops, the ball doesn't eject from the sewer drain. Instead, it rests atop the upkicker and a second ball is served up in the shooter lane and shot into play. If I then reach in and grab the ball in play and hold it, the game goes into the "search" mode of firing all of the solenoids. In that mode, the up-kicker for the sewer drain (where the first ball is now residing) does NOT fire, so the resting ball is not kicked out.

If I run the Solenoid Test for that same up-kicker, it kicks the ball out as it should.

Thoughts anyone??

Does the switch for the vuk trigger in test mode?

The continuous reel spinning issue happened with my game. The licensed reel stickers were too transparent, and the reels kept spinning. My friend painted the reel edges black, which provided the opacity for the optos to function correctly.

Jody

Yes, the VUK switch works in test. I also tested all of the switches in the subway, ball trough and shooter lane. All of them work. The only switch I couldn't find (or test) is the mysterious #31- Trough Jam.

It seems really odd that the VUK solenoid works in test but doesn't fire during the routine to clear a stuck ball.

I made a roulette mod for mine a couple years ago. Here is the video. Since the video I had to rework part of the motor to roulette wheel connection. Works great.

FlatsRUs, that's normal for this game .At game start there should be 3 balls in trough and one in sewer.If the ball in sewer was launched during multiball it will store the ball back there the next time it's sent into subway

Wow. I've had this game for a year and didn't know that! Thanks, you no doubt saved me a ton of needless "troubleshooting".

Couple questions: is there a good methodology to balance the Tony's Palace elevator ramp? It feel like most balls want to go to the right, even slightly. Also, the ball leaves the left trail much slower than the right trail.

Second - my train ramp exit over the left inlane is slightly broken. The left screw plastic has separated from the ramp exit, causing the metal stopper to rotate away a bit from the ramp as the ball hits it. The RIGHT stopper has a three screw setup - two screws in the plastic ramp, and one screw that is anchored to a playfield post.

The left stopper doesn't have an anchor to a playfield post and it is relying completely on the ramp screwholes to hold it. Since that has broken away on one side, it's now loose. So past getting a new train ramp, has anyone solved this type of problem?

Post a picture. Im sure theres a fix.

Check that playfield is level I use a bullet level above flippers. Check the switches on elevator ramp if there bent out to far They will slow the ball down as ball passes through

Yeah I have bought new switches to install so that's kinda next. And the playfield is left right level and 6.5 front to back.

Anyway here's the left train exit. As you can see the plastic is broken on the left screw and the right screw is tightened way tight to keep the metal from moving. Tight enough that I'm afraid it might get damaged if I'm not careful. Previous owner seems to have used super glue.

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If that thing gets hit enough it'll move. Seems like there could be a bracket that could fit into the playfield post like the right side one.