I had someone come take a look and it turns out it was actually a bad connection on the little circuit board in the front lower left of the cabinet. All is well again. Thank you very much for your advice.

Awesome, thanks for posting the followup solution to the issue!

I made a new alternate translite for this game as well as artblades, rule cards and a new tony's palace plastic. Pics of everything are in a thread call "Who Dunnit with Moir Noir" Here's a link. Pm if interested in anything.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/who-dunnit-with-moir-noir

who dunnit PST (resized).jpg

That all looks awesome, good work

Just joined the case. My Who Dunnit is in transit right now. Have a couple fixes to do on it and a small shop job, but looking forward to playing this. Are there any must need mods I should be gathering?

I would certainly add some lights above Tony's Palace sign and find a taxi 1:43 model

I haven't done any mods, but would like to do the one for the phone so the whole dial part lights up.

Like already suggested, a taxi is cool. A train could be cool... someone modded the roulette wheel to spin which is cool

Has anyone heard anything on when the larger plastic ramp may be available? Was it Starship Fantasy doing this 1?

Yes, it was Starship Fantasy, and he said Fall, so I would expect it in the next 3 months. If you email Larry for a status update, post what you find out.

Hi Club!

Do you know which size the instruction cards have? Is it 6" x 3.25" or 5.5" x 3.25"

Best Regards

Hello Club,
I want to install the roulette wheel mod on my W?D. Can anyone give me an investigative lead on this? Do you have experience with this? Maybe there is a giude to it?
Best regards
Robert

alexanr1 is the pinsider who made the motorized roulette wheel mod about 10 years ago. Maybe PM him and see if he can give you info on how to do it. The video he made was taken off youtube. If you get the info and do the mod, please post with the instructions/parts list!

Hello everyone,
I am looking for a picture of connecteor J121 (the backbox), information is missing on ipdb manual.... thanks!

Thanks scampcamp

Also, I looking for a translite, if anyone had the files to print it, that would help me a lot, thanks.

You can get a translight printed? My who dunnit could really use a new one. Where would you take a file to have one printed?

Can be bought from here >> https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/who-dunnit-translite/

Anyone seen this transite? How does it look?

Question - are there portions of the game where the Elevator Target (the 3 bank that goes up and down) is supposed to randomly go up and down? Or is that an error in the game. It has done it twice to me and when I lose my ball it seems to go back to working normal. In test it goes up and down normally with no issues.

It does do it at certain points of the game, for example after say 20 seconds of elevator madness to make it more difficult to shoot the elevator. If it does it in normal play check your position switches.

It's exact to the original i believe and most likely reproduced from the original art. The guy who owns Mr Pinball was the rights owner for Bally/Williams before Rick from PPS. I bought one from this place when i first got my machine and it looked good to me. Refer you to my first post in this club #96 for pics.

Sharing here for a fellow pinsider.

To test your phone flashers
#1). Open up the coin door and using the buttons on the inside of the door go to Test Menu
- right most button (Black) will take you into the menu’s
- The red buttons will let move up and down thru the choices.
BA8D654B-94C9-417A-B992-5B37D7A20F46 (resized).jpeg

2). Select flasher tests
5E752823-1B23-4B5C-AE2D-26BBD8B8B62F (resized).jpeg

3) for the flashers to work you will have to press in and hold in the lower coin door safety switch.

653DE7BC-E617-4A46-BAF1-7642BC9433E8 (resized).jpeg

4). Now in the menu, step thru the options until you get to the phone test
3144E739-3D31-48DE-95AD-37E73C6A599F (resized).jpeg

If everything is good, the flasher should show flashing in the phone.

Hope this helps.

I am so happy to be joining this group. Who Dunnit is THE machine that rekindled my childhood interest in pinball. Honestly, I didn't know a pinball machine could be what they are; and it was this game that intrigued and convinced me to check into the hobby. Happy I was able to put it with the collection. Time to play!

Where can I find the motorized roulette wheel?

Here's a Video showing red light inside the phone.
https://vimeo.com/790245060

Where can you buy this mod?

Remove the phone and replaced the original #906 incandescent bulb with a 8SMD #906 RED Flex Flasher. I moved the existing lamp holder to a new mounting location on the bottom of the phone so the 8SMD Wedge Flasher fits properly shinning up through the phone dial.
FFB016F0-E65B-4A92-A59C-AED42A0941F8 (resized).jpeg

6CB7B4A5-88F2-468A-BE8A-DB8B6D3A344F (resized).jpeg

is there a way to adjust the volume of the phone? doesn't seem like there is a method outside of the general volume controls. the ringing can be just a bit annoying and would love to turn down the volume of just that aspect, if possible.

any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Please join George and Dave as they review and play the game in their latest podcast #99:

The Classic Pinball Podcast
Downloadable here:
http://pinballdoctor.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast/
https://podbay.fm/podcast/1469743456
Accessible to stream via any of the links below:
https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-classic-pinball-podcast/id1469743456
https://www.breaker.audio/the-classic-pinball-podcast
https://open.spotify.com/show/6JGvAzDFwCSJUwwWgBMCDd
https://radiopublic.com/the-classic-pinball-podcast-WR95kj
https://overcast.fm/itunes1469743456/the-classic-pinball-podcast

So I usually don't post like this but, I'm trying to break into the Whodunnit club I see a machine that has not been tested. I don't know the condition of the boards or anything visually it looks fine I mean the main ramp has got a few stress spots that will probably start cracking and has a couple of small wear spots but overall looks good. The owner may want to plug it in test it which is fine by me he can do what he wants but trying to figure out a good price. I mean I look on the for sale thread but it's kind of hard to tell. And the guys kind of attached to his stuff so I want to make him a semi decent offer. But I'm sure he's looked at the machines on Pen side that are for sale or recent sales just as I have. But as we know the machines that are recently sold you can't tell the price, a lot of them are in better working condition, and then of course there's always the I don't want to sell it prices out there.
I mean I really want the game so I'm willing to step up not thinking I'll get it for pennies but at the same time I don't want to overshoot the runway. Thanks in advance for any help

A machine like this one in really nice aesthetic condition (cab decals, playfield, plastics all nice) and electronically sound (including all mechs) would be listed for around the 7K to 8K mark over here. That's not to say that a seller wouldn't take less but that's around the starting ballpark now it seems for most WPC era DMD machines. Not sure if that's the going rate in the US though given that 8K AUD is around about 5.5K with conversion of currency. The secondary machine market went absolutely nuts during the previous covid years, so much so that it was jokingly called "Covid Tax" Generally speaking those crazy prices have eased somewhat but the secondary market is still fairly strong.

Yeah I both fortunately unfortunately for me the machine I'm looking at is basically neglected condition. The ramp could probably go at any time I don't know if it even powers on. Basically like a rotting barn find. I know I'm going to have to take a look at the boards if they're not all jacked up that'll be a win. I did get the take a peek at it and the Playfield seemed to look nice which is maybe a couple of average wear spots. I was thinking in the neighborhood between 1.5 and 2K if everything is complete, and is untested. Usually testing means more money but not always. I know this is not the most desired title out there but I really enjoy it and want to be part of the club

Wow. Your posts read like you are practicing what you will say just to beat the seller down on price. Your contemplated price range is a joke, unless you'll be pointing a gun at the seller when you make your offer.

I see what you mean, I don't mean it like that at all. I'm just trying to think of what's wrong with it and what's going to take to fix it. Again it makes me nervous just thinking about the wood and other components since it's been in non-temp controlled storage for 20 years and supposedly hasn't been fired up in 17. I also found out it's missing the DMD which means I got to spend $500 right there to go get a new color one. Like I say I'm having a hard time pricing it because every, machine I see listed here or anywhere is always in great condition. Course when I said 1.5 the 2K I was talking about the just grab it as it is price without even opening it up. Since it's currently folded and wrapped with plastic.

I guess I was just trying to find a price for one of these machines that's probably on the lower and/or Unown condition game?

You can't ding the seller for a color upgrade you're planning. A used plasma DMD to put it back to the type of display that's missing is about $100 (or less if you get lucky), not $500.

Agreed . I just mean it's an extra cost but yeah just a hundred bucks or whatever. I think I'll bring my DMD off another game so I can power the machine on and we can see what's going on.

I would bring an assortment of fuses as well.

At the least If it's been sitting around for 17 years without being turned on there's a high possibility it will have a lot more wrong with it than needing fuses. I've had issues with machines that have been turned off for just 6 months LOL, they just don't like sitting around.
Atari, if it doesn't fire up then reseating all the data cables is a good start but with the boards unpowered for so long i wouldn't mind betting some or even all the boards will need work. You could get lucky too so be interesting to find out the results

You can now have that New Window with the artwork installed 04-10283 for Who Dunnit is now available - original 03-9413.1 tooled window with the artwork 31-2525.1 as an insert then staked via the pins on the original window.

Now Available

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-04-10283

Team PPS

04-10283 (resized).jpg

04-10283A (resized).jpg

Anyone have an alternative translite that they really love?

has everyone here seen this yet a Planetary Pinball? Someone finally ahs reproduced the center ramps! Apologies if I am late tot he party and everyone knows.

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-03-9411-SET

Not sure if you ever found this. Saw this market ad.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/153611

This is not the motorized roulette wheel. Can't find where it is sold tho.

Here is an archive Ad for it - funny enough its yours
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/roulette-wheel-mod-who-dunnit

Hi team!

Im thinking of fixing this ugly Sewer outlet on my Who dunnit. I have bought some new decals but before I attach them I think I need to do something with the damages.

Is it possible to fix the damaged surface in an easy way before attaching the new decals?

IMG20230328192926 (resized).jpg

LOL. Yea I made that mod myself. Actually changed it after the first version. The one I have now I like!

The first version I had two problems.
1) I didn’t have a veered motor, so the wheel spun way to fast even with a speed controller
2) I added a leaf switch to the roulette spinner and it would get stuck sometimes causing the roulette wheel to spin wildly fast and not stop.

The new version I have is triggered by the light that shows the roulette wheel is ready to be played. The new motor runs slow and is geared so it looks nice.

Link to the new version.

That’s odd damage. Wonder how it happened. My guess is the only thing you can do is to try to clean it up.

I would try to make it look symmetrical.
- either some metal files
- or if you have access to any table mounted belt sander you could use it.

I was thinking the same thing. It's difficult to tell from the photo.

I'm assuming the welds must have broken, and someone then re-welded it, and it burned a little. Especially since it's on both sides.

I'd probably pull the metal scoop part out and hit it with a grinder to get the edges straight again and then a wire wheel brush for the crud or rust or whatever, then polish and wax, then do the sticker.

Sorry, but that can't be fixed and the whole game isn't worth much without it.
You'll just have to give up on the game and part it out and sell it piecemeal.

(I don't use emojis, so you'll need to recognize my implied sarcasm.)

Thank you for the tips! I will try to take some better photos, its welded on both sides.

I was thinking of remove the stickers and put some Metal filler/spackel? and then make the surface better. But you think I really need to move the part from the game.