(Topic ID: 339298)

Whitewater under PF board smoking

By pindude80

1 year ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by pindude80
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#1 1 year ago

Some friends and I were playing my Whitewater last night when all of a sudden the display went off, the game quit playing, we smelled something burning, and the upkickers were firing.

I replaced br5 and c30 on the power driver board today because I was getting a weird reading on br5 but that didn't turn out to be the problem.

After I reinstalled the power driver board, and turned the game on I saw smoke coming up through the head from the bottom cabinet. I put new fuses in the game, stood the playfield up, and turned the game on. I saw smoke coming off of this board. I'm guessing this is an opto board?

I'm going to replace the cap- c2. Is there anything else I should check, replace or might have gotten damaged?

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#2 1 year ago

I don't think it's optos, check your manual for what board it is. Resistor R8 is what got hot. No idea why.

LTG : )

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I'm guessing this is an opto board?

Manual says it's a motor control board.

LTG : )

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I don't think it's optos, check your manual for what board it is. Resistor R8 is what got hot. No idea why.
LTG : )

It sure looks like the cap to me

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#5 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Manual says it's a motor control board.
LTG : )

Thanks for the info! I would imagine it's for Bigfoot's head.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

It sure looks like the cap to me

It is, the burn spot is at the ground side of C2. The first thing I would remove it and do a visual to see if it leaked underneath and corroded a trace. I couldn't find C2 in the schematic for that board ... bust since there are two C1s I'll assume C2 is the C1 connected between J15 (VCC after diode) and J1-5 (GND)

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

It is, the burn spot is at the ground side of C2. The first thing I would remove it and do a visual to see if it leaked underneath and corroded a trace. I couldn't find C2 in the schematic for that board ... bust since there are two C1s I'll assume C2 is the C1 connected between J15 (VCC after diode) and J1-5 (GND)

I removed the cap and I don't think it corroded the trace but burnt it.

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#8 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I removed the cap and I don't think it corroded the trace

Any orange goo on the bottom of the Cap?

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

It sure looks like the cap to me

Better picture. You are right.

LTG : )

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Any orange goo on the bottom of the Cap?

Maybe orange before it burnt?

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#11 1 year ago

Best guess, C1 it leaked underneath and corroded the +12V trace to the collector of Q1 to the point the trace could no longer supply enough current and got hot enough to melt solder (seen in the picture) which than shorted to the ground side of C1 causing the burn and smoke?

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Best guess, C1 it leaked underneath and corroded the +12V trace to the collector of Q1 to the point the trace could no longer supply enough current and got hot enough to melt solder (seen in the picture) which than shorted to the ground side of C1 causing the burn and smoke?

. Quite possibly. It looks like I am going to have to run a couple jumper wires.
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#13 1 year ago
Quoted from pindude80:

From the traces, it looks like the positive and negative side of the cap are connected. This has me scratching my head. Is this correct?

No, that trace goes straight to the center lead of Q1.
There was a transition for ground under the Cap that went to C3.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

No, that trace goes straight to the center lead of Q1.

Ahh, at first I thought the negative side came down to connect. It's hard to tell since everything is burnt up in that area. I see what you were saying.

Would you just install the jumper wires, install a new cap, and put it in the game to see if it works?

#15 1 year ago

That's a tough question for me to answer as I would repair the thru hole and traces.

If you cant do that then you are going to have to remove the carbon scoring first as its currently a conductor between +12V and ground.
You can the add jumper between J1-4 and loop it around the ground side of the capacitor leg, and land it at the ground side of C3. A second jumper would be needed from the cathode side of D6 to the positive leg of the capacitor.
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I think it will work. Good luck.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

That's a tough question for me to answer as I would repair the thru hole and traces.
If you cant do that then you are going to have to remove the carbon scoring first as its currently a conductor between +12V and ground.
You can the add jumper between J1-4 and loop it around the ground side of the capacitor leg, and land it at the ground side of C3. A second jumper would be needed from the cathode side of D6 to the positive leg of the capacitor.
[quoted image]
I think it will work. Good luck.

I made jumper wires and it worked great.

Thank you very much for your help getting my game back up and running!!

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