(Topic ID: 103137)

Whitewater resetting loop problem

By loneacer

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by TrainH2o
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

So it's been about 3 months since I had my whitewater plugged in. I turned it on and it keeps resetting, usually before it gets to the end of the testing progress bar, at most a few seconds after it finishes the testing.

The only things I've done to it since last playing it is that I wheeled it across my basement, plugged it into a different outlet, and put lights in the topper for the first time. My gut says it's either coincidence or the lights blew something up.

My experience with the repair side of pins is pretty much limited to replacing a fuse, a burnt GI connector, and an opto. I did check the voltage at my outlet and inside the pin and both are a steady 123 volts. The power cord isn't loose in the back of the game. What's the next logical step? Reset all the connectors? It's humming pretty loud in the backbox, and once it screeched loud enough to wake up the neighborhood.

On a side note, are the sockets for the bulbs in the topper incredibly tight? I had a very hard time getting the bulbs in, and I actually broke off a couple sockets removing the bulbs. I just used standard 194 bulbs and they all lit up when I first turned it on. Now that I broke those sockets, I'm going to replace both of those light boards on top. Are these the recommended replacements?

https://ksarcade.net/white-water-topper-lamp-board-wh2o-tlb.html

Is there a benefit to replacing the topper light driver board too?

#2 9 years ago

I just went through this with my TZ.

Bottom line, it's related to your 5 volts on the power driver board, and WOW, are there a lot of things that can cause that to happen. The 5 volts runs all the logic on the MPU board. If the 5 volts drops too low, the game resets.

First thing is to make sure you have at least 117 volts going to the game from the outlet. Next, I test the voltage at the service outlet, in the bottom of the cabinet. If all this checks out, you're really in for some troubleshooting.

Mine was burnt connectors and tarnished header pins at J101 on the power driver board. There are MANY other causes.

#3 9 years ago

After verifying proper voltage at the outlet do this.

Look at the power driver board for the 5VDC test point, and check the voltage there. I think it's TP2, but look on the board or in the manual. I think it's labeled on the board.

The game has to be on for this test. Do you have 5 volts?

#4 9 years ago

First I've heard about test points. Those are handy! So after researching how to test them, I'm getting 10 volts at TP2. I tried 3 or 4 test points and they are all roughly double what the board says that are. What's up with that? On the plus side, it has stopped rebooting, it's not even getting to the testing screen now.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

First thing is to make sure you have at least 117 volts going to the game from the outlet.

^^^^ Confirm this first at the outlet, no extension cords or strips. ^^^^

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from loneacer:

First I've heard about test points. Those are handy! So after researching how to test them, I'm getting 10 volts at TP2. I tried 3 or 4 test points and they are all roughly double what the board says that are. What's up with that? On the plus side, it has stopped rebooting, it's not even getting to the testing screen now.

Correction. I had my multimeter on AC instead of DC. TP2 is 4.94 volts.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Crazed:

^^^^ Confirm this first at the outlet, no extension cords or strips. ^^^^

Yes, 123 volts directly at the outlet.

#8 9 years ago

What do the LED's do when starting up?

#9 9 years ago

I would disconnect all the connectors on the CPU board except the power to the board and see if the CPU boots up properly (check the LED's as Kkuoppamaki suggested). This will narrow down the issue to the CPU board or something else.

#10 9 years ago

Your voltage at the outlet and at TP2 is a lot better then mine. I usually get 117 VDC at the outlet and 4.7 VDC at TP2.

Look at your MPU board for a little blue capacitor. Test the bottom lead for VDC. If it is much less than the 4.94 VDC you are getting on TP2, on the power driver board, turn power off, reseat both ends of the little short power cable that connects the power driver board to the MPU.

Note, this is not the ribbon cable. It's on the left-hand side of the power driver board, and jumps right across to the MPU. Then turn power on and retest power at the bottom of the little blue capacitor.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

Your voltage at the outlet and at TP2 is a lot better then mine. I usually get 117 VDC at the outlet and 4.7 VDC at TP2.
Look at your MPU board for a little blue capacitor. Test the bottom lead for VDC. If it is much less than the 4.94 VDC you are getting on TP2, on the power driver board, turn power off, reseat both ends of the little short power cable that connects the power driver board to the MPU.
Note, this is not the ribbon cable. It's on the left-hand side of the power driver board, and jumps right across to the MPU. Then turn power on and retest power at the bottom of the little blue capacitor.

I'm not sure if it accomplishes the same thing, but I measured voltage at pin 32 of the game rom as the pin wiki suggests and it came in at only 4.6. I reconnected about a dozen connectors on the power driver board and now I get 4.86 at pin 32 and it's booting up and staying on. I noticed a couple connectors with only 3 or so pins are fairly loose, so I'm assuming those could be the problem. Do they make plug-n-plug replacements for these cables or do I need to repin and replace them individually?

#12 9 years ago

If simply reseating that connector "fixed" it, then yes. Rebuild that connector, both sides.

Buy the proper Trifurcon connectors, housings, and maybe header pins. I am not sure if they sell the OEM IDC cable, or not.

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