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(Topic ID: 279110)

WhiteWater G.I. Issue


By Fenix15

52 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 49 days ago by Fenix15
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 52 days ago

Hey everyone,

I'm restoring my WH20 and I'm currently troubleshooting the G.I. lighting. Since this is my first time ever trying this, I'm pretty confused. So, here's what I've done:

-Replaced a blown fuse, which brought back the backbox G.I. and one of the two coin slot lights, too.
-Checked connectors J120 and J121, both have pins intact and no burning.
-Checked J115, which seems toasty on pin 2 (second most from the right). Not sure if this is contributing to it.
-All fuses have been tested and are good now.
-Connectors have been reseated. No dice.
-Playfield still has no G.I. at all.

Where do I go now? Do I just crimp that connector? Anything else I should be looking at? Also if any of you guys have part numbers for the connectors/heads/crimping tools, I would be super appreciative. Gotta say, restoring these games has quite a steep learning curve but holy crap is it exciting when you fix it!

#2 52 days ago
Quoted from Fenix15:

Hey everyone,
I'm restoring my WH20 and I'm currently troubleshooting the G.I. lighting. Since this is my first time ever trying this, I'm pretty confused. So, here's what I've done:
-Replaced a blown fuse, which brought back the backbox G.I. and one of the two coin slot lights, too.
-Checked connectors J120 and J121, both have pins intact and no burning.
-Checked J115, which seems toasty on pin 2 (second most from the right). Not sure if this is contributing to it.
-All fuses have been tested and are good now.
-Connectors have been reseated. No dice.
-Playfield still has no G.I. at all.
Where do I go now? Do I just crimp that connector? Anything else I should be looking at? Also if any of you guys have part numbers for the connectors/heads/crimping tools, I would be super appreciative. Gotta say, restoring these games has quite a steep learning curve but holy crap is it exciting when you fix it!

Headers on j120/121 changed or had solder reflowed?

#3 52 days ago

I'm honestly not sure. Haven't had the board taken out yet. Where would I find the headers?

Pardon my ignorance, I'm super new to everything.

#4 52 days ago
Quoted from Fenix15:

Where would I find the headers?

Ed's the man - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ tools and parts.

You need size .156

LTG : )

#5 52 days ago
Quoted from Fenix15:

I'm honestly not sure. Haven't had the board taken out yet. Where would I find the headers?
Pardon my ignorance, I'm super new to everything.

Good start but you’ll need to check some voltages to see where the problem is
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

#6 52 days ago

Update: had a more experienced friend come over and look the machine over. He said the boards were super clean, the connectors all looked good (except for the one with the one burnt pin), all the board components were fine, etc. He figured there was a short somewhere in the machine which caused that pin to fry and it could have been anywhere in the machine...

....until I noticed that a bulb was missing in one of the holes in the left slingshot. There was a SHATTERED bulb in there and the little orb holding the conductors together was just lying out in front of it. He yanked it out and there was a short burst of flame as he pulled the base of the bulb out. Clearly a dead short, right? Unfortunately, that didn't fix the issue. Upon putting in a new bulb, however, it lit right up. He now seems to think I just have a bunch of burnt out bulbs, but that I should also re-pin that connector with the one toasty pin (J115) just in case to be safe.

Thoughts? I mean, if that base flared up, clearly there's power getting to the G.I., right? Connector J121 (playfield G.I.) is perfectly fine as are the triacs on the board (at least physically). I feel like I should be reassured, but I'm still wary.

#7 52 days ago

Yes check to see if the bulbs are good. Be careful changing bulbs with the power on especially if you need to remove sockets from underneath (or pulling busted bulbs). Shorting GI or touching other voltages can blow things up.

Replacing toasty connector (both sides, female and male at the same time) is a good practice.

Very quick and easy to check the voltages of all the GI strings at the board using my linked info above. Here's a snippet to get started:

J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.
Pin Wire color at J120/J121
1 Brown
2 Orange
3 Yellow (yellow)
4 Key
5 Green
6 Violet
7 White-Brown
8 White-Orange
9 White-Yellow (yellow)
10 White-Green
11 White-Violet

Common GI Problem Causes (listed by probability/ease of testing and correction)

GI Bulbs Not Lighting

Let's start by determining if the problem is "off board", i.e. not on your power/driver board, or "on board".

Take note of the wire color of the GI string that is not working.
Set your DMM to AC voltage. If your DMM is not an "auto-ranging" model, expect to measure about 7 volts AC.
Turn the game on.
Insert one probe of your DMM (either one) into the rear of the female connector position with the same wire color as noted earlier. Make sure you make contact with the conductor.
Insert the other probe into the rear of the female connector with the white wire that has the same color "tracer" as the color noted earlier.
You should be measuring 6 to 7 VAC.
If there is voltage at the connector, then the problem is "off board".
If there is no voltage at the connector, then the problem is "on board".

#8 52 days ago
Quoted from Fenix15:

He yanked it out and there was a short burst of flame as he pulled the base of the bulb out.

That is why you turn things off to dig out metal bases.

Quoted from Fenix15:

Clearly a dead short,

If you had flame. Yup, dead short pulling it out.

Bulb busted by a ball may take out a fuse. After that it isn't shorted or drawing more current, it's dead.

Quoted from Fenix15:

(except for the one with the one burnt pin)

Time for new pins and new connector. They drive a higher current through those GI connectors then they were rated for. Your game was meant to be routed for a few years and junked. So they never made that circuit better for collectors twenty years later.

Quoted from Fenix15:

had a more experienced friend come over

You might need one with more experience if this one works on things with the game turned on.

LTG : )

#9 49 days ago

Update 2: I have started taking the machine apart for refurbishment and so far every single G.I. bulb I have replaced has lit up. I'm starting to think I really do just have a bunch of blown bulbs. I will re-pin that connector just to be safe.

Thanks for your help, everyone! Can't wait to get WhiteWater playing again!

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