(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

7 years ago

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  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by The_Pump_House
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#2732 3 years ago

I need some pictures please. While restoring my Whitewater I noticed that the left sling has two of the same switches.

My understanding is that originally, the machines shipped with with a scoring switch, three wiring positions with a diode, and a kicker switch, two wiring positions -no diode, (Leaf switch - SW-1A-120 and SW-1A-114, respectively) on each sling.

The left sling on my machine has two scoring switches (three position with diode).

Could someone post pictures of their left and right sling switches from under the playfield?


4 weeks later
#2773 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I replaced 3 of the ramps and now have the following problem.
When launching a ball, it will make it to the "Lower to Upper Ramp" (#A-15840), at the top of the upper playfield, then roll back down through the "Upper to Lower Ramp", (#03-8691).
The 3 ramps I replaced are, Suicide Canyon Ramp #A-15840, Whirlpool Ramp #03-8693, and Big Foot Ramp #A-15837.
It seems like the Suicide Canyon Ramp is pushing up slightly on the Lower to Upper ramp, preventing the ball continuing through to the play field.
Anyone have similar issues with these?

Sent PM

2 months later
#2867 3 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

I picked one up this weekend. I have a problem with bigfoot's head. It was working but then just quit. Course the error shows on start up...no movement at all. Been looking at the schematics and will continue to but wanted to see if anyone has some quick checks I can make. I do have 14v at J118 on the driver board but in the test mode nothing at the motor. Any thoughts as I dig in....? It is turned on in the adjustments menu.

Did you buy the one that was listed in Tucson?

2 weeks later
#2886 3 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Has anyone tried putting Titan rubbers on their White Water?
What are your opinions on it vs normal rubbers? Is the right outlane more or less problematic with Titan rubbers?

Yes. I have mostly titans with some marco rubber. blue flippers, black posts, white everywhere else.

I haven't noticed a difference between the original rubber and titans.

I removed the boulder garden rubber that "blocked" part of the garden (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-wh2o-boulder-garden-layout).
Slightly more right drains but pop bumper action is so much more fun.

5 months later
#3018 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey guys been working on wh20 fixing a bunch of little odds and ends. So i'm down to my last error and am completely stumped on it. I have rebuilt the damn pop bumpers completely and am still getting this error at startup. Just to be clear I had this issue also b4 idid the rebuild. It works completely fine after I reset the error in test mode and scores properly. Anyone have any insight into this issue to help me keep my sanity.

switch to the right of the center pop. It is most likely closed all the time. Needs to be adjusted open

See manual page 2-43 for exact location

#3019 2 years ago

The manual is your friend. Get pdf copy at IPDB if you don’t have a paper version

#3032 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Ok Marvin u a bad dude! Got home and checked it out and u sir called it spot on. I didn't realize there were switches under that mountain plastic was thinking it was referring switch 55 to the right pop bumper. Sure enough i took that plastic off and that switch was definitely closed.Thk u!
[quoted image]

Sorry if it wasn't clear. Wasn't near computer to upload manual's switch map & working off my memory.

Your trouble shooting menu was indicating switch 55, not your pops (switches 16, 17, 18).

switch map (resized).pngswitch matrix (resized).png
1 month later
1 week later
#3248 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Has anyone upgraded their speakers / sub? If so, does it make a difference since the audio is such lo-fi on this game?

Yes. I’ve done replacements on WH2O and WW. I was amazed at the difference. Call outs are clearer (previously sounded muffled & fuzzy). The music sounds great.

There’s enough bass to feel the cabinet vibrate a bit with just the cabinet woofer (used a crossover to balance the cab & panel speakers).

I followed “Tony's Do-It-Yourself Guide to Speaker Replacement on WPC-Era Bally/Williams Pinball Machines”

#3259 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Wow. Is this a kit?

It is Pinduino

The kit is undergoing further refinement on my machine.

1 month later
#3327 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Is anyone using Leds in the topper? I'm going to be using an led ocd, and in order for it to work error free all your feature lamps need to be led that would include these I'm,pretty sure .

Nope. I’ve ledocd and giocd in my whitewater.

Still have incandescents on the topper, some flashers on the playfield , and all flashers in the backbox.

LEDs in the topper look aweful

2 months later
#3602 2 years ago

Available tomorrow or Sunday. A new Bigfoot Spotlight mod.


SFZ_8515 copy (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3679 2 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

I'm running lightning flippers.. Got close to vj maybe 3 times.

I'm running 1946 flippers. I drain all the time.

#3686 2 years ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Could someone please tell me where I can find the switch for the "right jet arena"?

Yes. Switch 55 can cause problems. If the machine has not been maintained, it can be stuck shut, causing matrix problems.
Drove me insane.

Other's have had the same issue. See six months ago:

#3695 2 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

Looks like big foot blew his load all over your game

How is it you are so wise in the ways of Bigfoot spunk?

#3700 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Found this on my doorstep today!
[quoted image]

Glad it made it safely! I contract with Wet Willy delivery services.

#3703 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Full unboxing pics please.

What do you want to know?

#3705 2 years ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

I am having a problem with my bigfoot.
When shooting the whirlpool shot the bigfoot head spins a full 360 after a small delay, instead of looking back at me and rotate back. What could cause this?

Possibly a bad opto. Otherwise, the disk below the Bigfoot that alternately blocks/allows the optos to be read could have a piece broken off of it.

Try the diagnostic tests: Bigfoot head position - this would be the most useful. It should read UP, Diverter, Player when stopped in each of those respective positions.
Also try the Bigfoot Opto test.

#3713 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Got the Bigfoot mod in!! Was not too bad of an install great instructions zene10 [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful job!

You only installed 1 habitrail clip on Bigfoot’s cave spot without the full bracket.

That will most likely hold without a problem, but you may notice it rotate downwards over time.

Or, I could’ve just overthought and over engineered the spotlight bracket. Old engineering habit.

Can’t wait for the final reveal when completed!

#3718 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I’ve been kicking this same question around. Mine is full original bulbs and agree the warm tone really is good for the game. I’m a big fan of the 2smd sunlight bulbs installed in my Whirlwind. I’ve played other white waters with cool white and sunlight. For some reason, I feel like the warm incandescnets look better. I’ve been leaning on warm white LEDs, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
Are you getting the LED boards for the inserts too?

Curious about whirlwind. I have sunlight in White Water but was thinking about cool white (aka natural white) in Whirlwind. Lightening reminds me of a pure white or blue tint. Did you try anything other incandescents on WW?

#3725 2 years ago

While we're talking about lighting, here's my translite setup with:
• OCDGI, dims translite once start is pressed except for 2 x white LED strips
• Mix of 2SMD Comet warm white and sunlight (+2 x cool white at the very bottom between the strips)
• 3 strip of orange (top right)
• 2 x 20 strip of natural white that stay lit when the rest of the translite lighting is dimmed

I'm hoping I win at the rainbow puke club.
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#3728 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Now if you can tie in some lights to turn on behind the big foot in the backglass when your spot light/hot foot mod triggers, that would be cool!

I agree, thanks for the suggestions.

My ambitions were a lot larger for the Sasquatch Signal when I started. In addition to the end result, I prototyped and tested:
• Flickering fire type lighting inside Bigfoot's Cave when in the Hot Foot mode
• Backglass integration
• Whirlpool ramp integration
• Custom spotlight addressable lighting (the spotlight shines different colors depending on game play)

All these things are possible but sacrifices had to be made for sanity, a realistic price point, and time to assemble kits. Otherwise scope-creep would have resulted in this never getting out.

If you're interested in ramp lighting integration, I'd point you to the Pinduino kit from lyonsden

As it is now, the time it takes to build the wiring harnesses alone puts each kit in the "do you want fries with that?" pay range or less. Development through realization of the kit was all about love of the hobby and a challenge to myself.

If a person is ambitious enough, they could tap a 12V lighting strip (cut to size) into the existing 12V line to illuminate Bigfoot in the translite when the spot comes on. The hotfoot mode would require some additional programming (the fire mode is addressable LED strips) and tying into the end of the addressable lighting chain. Alternatively, a board redesign could accommodate parallel addressable strips.

Maybe in the future I'll revisit once I've sold my current stock.

Paddle Hard and Keep Calm!

#3736 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Think I may have answered my own question, it would appear whitewater uses longer hangers than creature. So maybe a simple fix

Yes, longer hangers.

2 weeks later
#3796 2 years ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

zene10 Thank you for the reply. I figured I'd end up having to rivet a new face pc. Now I need to figure out what rivet size to use, and where to get an inexpensive tool to do the job.
Anyone know what diameter and length rivet would be needed for this type of target face?
Would this tool do the trick? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-EZSQZ

I recommend the Master Rivet kit from pinrestore.com (https://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html)

1 month later
#3967 2 years ago
Quoted from Devinsupertramp:

I bought a fully restored White Water pinball machine. From the moment I got the machine every time the ball goes to the kickback, the kickback goes off, and then locked into place against the blue play field apron, fully extended. The kickback then is stuck. If another ball hits it down the land the ball gets stuck. I have to then take off the glass and push hard against the play field apron pushing it to the right, and then the kickback falls back into place. Once I do another game, anywhere from 1 to 5 more times of the kickback going off, it gets stuck and I have to do the entire process again.
Any ideas on how I can prevent this problem? Shaving off part of the play field where the kickback gets stuck? Anyone else have this issue? I have a photo with an arrow pointing to the kickback when it gets stuck. Any advice would be great as I've yet to be able to finish a game since owning it without the kickback getting stuck.
[quoted image]

Remove apron. Loosen screws holding coil fixture. Re-align fixture so plunger does not get caught on apron (rotate or slide to the left from player's perspective. Tighten screws. Re-install apron. Play WH2O.

1 week later
#4005 2 years ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I was told at the Texas Pinball show that bolder sets would be out in 6 weeks per Starship Fantasy. So that would technically be 2 weeks away? I hope.

Oh that's a good one. It's always "2-3 months", years later.

1 month later
#4085 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Well here is my final report on the Pinsound board.
It is a great product if what you are after is new cool music and callouts for your game. For this purpose the card is a beast and blows away the original sound card. And it has some cool features like a headphone jack and direct sub output. (But I already have Pinnovators hooked to my old board that already does all of that. At this point in time there are really no super cool download options for Whitewater though. One guy redid some of the callouts but the voice work is just not for me.
However, if you want original game rom sounds done perfectly like the original board does, you are pretty much out of luck.
I will admit that it comes close to doing this, and maybe going the extra mile by spending another $150 on upgraded speakers might help, but there is no way I can justify all the money the board and speakers cost to not be satisfied with the way my game is sounding right now.
And it is not just me, my entire family and everyone I have had stop by to listen, agrees that the original Williams sound board is faster and does not leave out any sounds like this board does. I forgot to mention that it sometimes just skips callouts or sounds whenever it feels like it. Arrrrgh.
I am even using a fast USB 3.0 thumb drive but since the wave files are not stored on the actual sound card, it just can't seem to always keep up.
So I will of course be listing my Pinsound+ for sale soon and I will nurse my existing sound card along for as long as it lives or until some company finally starts making replacement boards for these games.

I had great luck with the DIY sound upgrade (speakers & sub + crossover). The difference was night and day.

Two years in a row at TPF people have asked about the great sound.

I followed “Tony's Do-It-Yourself Guide to Speaker Replacement on WPC-Era Bally/Williams Pinball Machines”



#4087 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I'm sure if I throw more money at it, it would sound a bit better.
Just not $600 better then my old card and I will get all the callouts and not have it randomly skip some.
To each his own, Pinsound is just not the product I was hoping it would be for me and my family.

After you sell your kit, the DIY route is easily less than $100

2 weeks later
#4108 2 years ago
Quoted from steve-o:

I'm in the process of making a connector for my J115 on the driver board due to a hack job repair.
Would someone please post a pic of their J115 wiring? (I have a new RD WDB089 pcb on its way)
Thanks in advance, Steveo
here's a pic of my J115 after direct soldiered wires were cut/removed (yep, they spliced and soldiered in different colored wires)[quoted image]

I’ve repaired mine (replaced header and connector) so not the original wiring.

Look at the manual page 3-39.

My picture corresponds to my hand written notes on the manual page.

73906021-0BAE-4B99-8DF8-1B5C030562B9 (resized).jpegGood luck!
4EA55D25-DC9E-421B-A3FC-AE5933C8FCC7 (resized).jpeg

1 month later
1 month later
#4378 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Insanity Falls Ramp Adjustment:
Okay, so I'm losing my mind on the Insanity Falls ramp. I switched out my old one for a much nicer one and now the ball is not consistently going all the way down and usually just makes the bend, doesn't make the first hill, and then just drops off.
The following have not fixed the issue:
1. Cleaning/waxing the ramp
2. Tightening down all screws on ramp
3. Adjusting switch to it's lowest point
4. Rebuilding top flipper
5. Cranking the pitch up to 8
I am open to suggestions.

Had this issue and others when I used Starship's remake ramps.

1. Jam_Burglar's advice

2. Did you accidentally mix up any other hexagonal stand-off's from another location in the game when reassembling?

3. Is it a thicker remake or an original? If a remake, you may need to add a washer to the back standoff (either under the ramp lip or at the base of the standoff) to slightly raise the ramp in the back. Also, is your apron sitting higher after reassembly than in your original? Try lowering your apron in combination with raising the back hex standoff. This may require a custom standoff at the outlane area level. My apron is set as low is it can go and the bottom of the ramp sits on the apron.

It's really fun if you can get the ramp adjusted so that a slow ball trickles out of the drop offs mid ramp but a fast ball makes it around to the inlane area.

3 months later
#4517 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeSinMD:

My whitewater Playfield is a little rough, and I am considering a new one. I am thinking of going with Mirco play fields. What is the opinion on these? Any problems with them? Should they be clearcoated also? Is mirco the only option? Also, where do you buy them? Thanks

My advice is do not buy a Mirco playfield unless you can inspect it first hand. I picked up a Mirco WH2O at TPF about two years ago. There were about 5 sets of fields there and they varied slightly in quality. Nothing horrendous but minor variations in the clear coat.

The other option is to send your current field out for touch up and re-clear. The benefit of this is your re-population will be nearly trouble free. Regardless of the game, a new field will have dimples that don't exactly match up to mechanisms and the through holes can be off a millimeter or two causing issues with guide rails and post locations.

#4523 1 year ago
Quoted from MikeSinMD:

My original has the usual divet at the lost mine kick out and a long kind of divet going towards the flippers on the same side. Who does repairs on play fields?
On that flayfield that you bought at tpf, have you installed them yet? Any problems with holes in the wrong places? Etc? Thanks

I haven't installed the WH2O Mirco playfield yet. However, I did install a new Mirco Whirlwind playfield. I was happy with the clear coat and colors. It's held up well with about 500 plays so far.

Issues with Whirlwind playfield (I traded my original to be used as the template for a new Mirco field):

1. "NE" decal missing from an insert. This affected multiple people who purchased from the original run. The company was indifferent and I don't know if anybody received a replacement or partial refund due to this omission.
2. The shooter lane/trough kickout area. Something was off by a few mm. Stock WW Cliffy's did not fit properly. Cliff was kind enough to create a Mirco version of the kick-out area proector based on the template I sent him.
3. The dimples were off on multiple mechanisms (pops, flippers, lift ramp area, etc). This was both irritating and disappointing, since my field was supposed to be the template, I expected a plug and play repopulation.

#4524 1 year ago

I spent the holiday building a new batch of boards.

Your Bigfoot deserves a spotlight and roasty, toasty toes during the Hotfoot mode.


IMG_7840 (resized).JPG
2 months later
#4744 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

So looking for a little help....
I restored my WH2O and I found out when I replaced some targets I put the wrong wires on the diode, reading in the forums that can cause some resets. Well, it did, it reset and I don’t know if this was what caused the other issue I am now experiencing....
So the game reset, it was in attract mode I heard a pop and then the game just froze. I have a Rottendog driver board in the game and you can see by the board status lights the 5 volt is out.
I fixed and verified all the switch wiring and I think I got them all fixed. Then I moved on to the 5 volt issue on the driver board, I thought it would just be a fuse but I checked each fuse with a multimeter and they were all good. I still replaced the 5 volt logic fuse...nothing obviously won’t boot up without 5 volt working.
Could my reset fried something on my driver board? I can’t see/think it is the MPU when the LED On the driver board shows 5 volt is out.
Any ideas out there? Or am I at a point I have to send my driver board out for work?

Yes, you probably blew the 5V regulator(6-A, 4.5-Vto14-VINPUT, NON-ISOLATED, ADJUSTABLEWIDE-OUTPUT, SWITCHING REGULATOR , part

I blew it in the past working on the machine while on.

Cheap and easy to replace.


#4746 1 year ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

This is on the driver board - even a Rottendog board.?

I have a rottendog board. Called rottendog and their tech walked me through troubleshooting and That is the part I blew.

I do not think the original board has the same type of regulator.

3 months later
#5144 11 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

That's exactly where it goes. It's a one way gate.
This is from my whirlwind.
[quoted image]

So I took a look at my WW and WH2O and discovered neither one had a one way gate.

So time to make some. In case you never seen the Marco kit (12-WS-KIT, wire bending starter kit), the jig is useful for making your own gates and other wire forms.

Not the most elegant gate for WW but it works.

IMG_8723 (resized).JPGIMG_8724 (resized).JPGIMG_8725 (resized).JPGIMG_8727 (resized).JPG
#5147 11 months ago
Quoted from zene10:

So I took a look at my WW and WH2O and discovered neither one had a one way gate.
So time to make some. In case you never seen the Marco kit (12-WS-KIT, wire bending starter kit), the jig is useful for making your own gates and other wire forms.
Not the most elegant gate for WW but it works.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I can't believe I was 0 for 2 on one-way gates. Got the White Water finished also. It took a couple of practice runs to get the first one done for WW but the second for WH2O went a lot quicker.
The Jig worked well for forming the wire gates but to get the tight 90 degree bends, needle nose pliers work well.
You can eyeball the bends so that the gate hangs level or if you're really a perfectionist there are calculator guides available for bending wire like this one:

IMG_8730 (resized).JPGIMG_8729 (resized).JPG

4 months later
3 months later
#5560 3 months ago


Free USA shipping for the month of March on Bigfoot spotlight and Hotfoot mod! Half price shipping for international ($10).


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