I need some pictures please. While restoring my Whitewater I noticed that the left sling has two of the same switches.

My understanding is that originally, the machines shipped with with a scoring switch, three wiring positions with a diode, and a kicker switch, two wiring positions -no diode, (Leaf switch - SW-1A-120 and SW-1A-114, respectively) on each sling.

The left sling on my machine has two scoring switches (three position with diode).

Could someone post pictures of their left and right sling switches from under the playfield?

Thanks.

Sent PM

Did you buy the one that was listed in Tucson?

Yes. I have mostly titans with some marco rubber. blue flippers, black posts, white everywhere else.

I haven't noticed a difference between the original rubber and titans.

I removed the boulder garden rubber that "blocked" part of the garden (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-wh2o-boulder-garden-layout).
Slightly more right drains but pop bumper action is so much more fun.

switch to the right of the center pop. It is most likely closed all the time. Needs to be adjusted open

See manual page 2-43 for exact location

The manual is your friend. Get pdf copy at IPDB if you don’t have a paper version

Sorry if it wasn't clear. Wasn't near computer to upload manual's switch map & working off my memory.

Your trouble shooting menu was indicating switch 55, not your pops (switches 16, 17, 18).

switch map (resized).png

switch matrix (resized).png

Try Great Plains electronics

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=38

Yes. I’ve done replacements on WH2O and WW. I was amazed at the difference. Call outs are clearer (previously sounded muffled & fuzzy). The music sounds great.

There’s enough bass to feel the cabinet vibrate a bit with just the cabinet woofer (used a crossover to balance the cab & panel speakers).

I followed “Tony's Do-It-Yourself Guide to Speaker Replacement on WPC-Era Bally/Williams Pinball Machines”

It is Pinduino

The kit is undergoing further refinement on my machine.

Nope. I’ve ledocd and giocd in my whitewater.

Still have incandescents on the topper, some flashers on the playfield , and all flashers in the backbox.

LEDs in the topper look aweful

Available tomorrow or Sunday. A new Bigfoot Spotlight mod.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-mod-with-hot-foot-mode#post-4782571

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I'm running 1946 flippers. I drain all the time.

Yes. Switch 55 can cause problems. If the machine has not been maintained, it can be stuck shut, causing matrix problems.
Drove me insane.

Other's have had the same issue. See six months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/61#postbox

How is it you are so wise in the ways of Bigfoot spunk?

Glad it made it safely! I contract with Wet Willy delivery services.

What do you want to know?

Possibly a bad opto. Otherwise, the disk below the Bigfoot that alternately blocks/allows the optos to be read could have a piece broken off of it.

Try the diagnostic tests: Bigfoot head position - this would be the most useful. It should read UP, Diverter, Player when stopped in each of those respective positions.
Also try the Bigfoot Opto test.

Beautiful job!

You only installed 1 habitrail clip on Bigfoot’s cave spot without the full bracket.

That will most likely hold without a problem, but you may notice it rotate downwards over time.

Or, I could’ve just overthought and over engineered the spotlight bracket. Old engineering habit.

Can’t wait for the final reveal when completed!

Curious about whirlwind. I have sunlight in White Water but was thinking about cool white (aka natural white) in Whirlwind. Lightening reminds me of a pure white or blue tint. Did you try anything other incandescents on WW?

While we're talking about lighting, here's my translite setup with:
• OCDGI, dims translite once start is pressed except for 2 x white LED strips
• Mix of 2SMD Comet warm white and sunlight (+2 x cool white at the very bottom between the strips)
• 3 strip of orange (top right)
• 2 x 20 strip of natural white that stay lit when the rest of the translite lighting is dimmed

I'm hoping I win at the rainbow puke club.
IMG_4868 (resized).JPGIMG_4870 (resized).JPGIMG_4869 (resized).JPGIMG_4871 (resized).JPG

I agree, thanks for the suggestions.

My ambitions were a lot larger for the Sasquatch Signal when I started. In addition to the end result, I prototyped and tested:
• Flickering fire type lighting inside Bigfoot's Cave when in the Hot Foot mode
• Backglass integration
• Whirlpool ramp integration
• Custom spotlight addressable lighting (the spotlight shines different colors depending on game play)

All these things are possible but sacrifices had to be made for sanity, a realistic price point, and time to assemble kits. Otherwise scope-creep would have resulted in this never getting out.

If you're interested in ramp lighting integration, I'd point you to the Pinduino kit from lyonsden

As it is now, the time it takes to build the wiring harnesses alone puts each kit in the "do you want fries with that?" pay range or less. Development through realization of the kit was all about love of the hobby and a challenge to myself.

If a person is ambitious enough, they could tap a 12V lighting strip (cut to size) into the existing 12V line to illuminate Bigfoot in the translite when the spot comes on. The hotfoot mode would require some additional programming (the fire mode is addressable LED strips) and tying into the end of the addressable lighting chain. Alternatively, a board redesign could accommodate parallel addressable strips.

Maybe in the future I'll revisit once I've sold my current stock.

Paddle Hard and Keep Calm!

Yes, longer hangers.

Also goes by part# B-12912-5

Marco is out of stock, but you can drill out the rivet and replace just the target face (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8304-5) and re-set with a new rivet. Cointaker also has the part (https://cointaker.com/products/target-3d-square-03-8304-5-white)

Otherwise overseas have them at a premium.
http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/bally/gilligan-s-island/target-switch-3d-square-white.html

https://pinparts.co.uk/products/b-12912-10-3d-transparent-blue-target-switch-assembly-b-12912-10

I recommend the Master Rivet kit from pinrestore.com (https://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html)

Remove apron. Loosen screws holding coil fixture. Re-align fixture so plunger does not get caught on apron (rotate or slide to the left from player's perspective. Tighten screws. Re-install apron. Play WH2O.

Oh that's a good one. It's always "2-3 months", years later.

I had great luck with the DIY sound upgrade (speakers & sub + crossover). The difference was night and day.

Two years in a row at TPF people have asked about the great sound.

I followed “Tony's Do-It-Yourself Guide to Speaker Replacement on WPC-Era Bally/Williams Pinball Machines”

http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/65#post-4611936

After you sell your kit, the DIY route is easily less than $100

I’ve repaired mine (replaced header and connector) so not the original wiring.

Look at the manual page 3-39.

My picture corresponds to my hand written notes on the manual page.

73906021-0BAE-4B99-8DF8-1B5C030562B9 (resized).jpegGood luck!
4EA55D25-DC9E-421B-A3FC-AE5933C8FCC7 (resized).jpeg

Stock is running low.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02183-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-amp-hot-foot-lighting-

Had this issue and others when I used Starship's remake ramps.

1. Jam_Burglar's advice

2. Did you accidentally mix up any other hexagonal stand-off's from another location in the game when reassembling?

3. Is it a thicker remake or an original? If a remake, you may need to add a washer to the back standoff (either under the ramp lip or at the base of the standoff) to slightly raise the ramp in the back. Also, is your apron sitting higher after reassembly than in your original? Try lowering your apron in combination with raising the back hex standoff. This may require a custom standoff at the outlane area level. My apron is set as low is it can go and the bottom of the ramp sits on the apron.

It's really fun if you can get the ramp adjusted so that a slow ball trickles out of the drop offs mid ramp but a fast ball makes it around to the inlane area.

My advice is do not buy a Mirco playfield unless you can inspect it first hand. I picked up a Mirco WH2O at TPF about two years ago. There were about 5 sets of fields there and they varied slightly in quality. Nothing horrendous but minor variations in the clear coat.

The other option is to send your current field out for touch up and re-clear. The benefit of this is your re-population will be nearly trouble free. Regardless of the game, a new field will have dimples that don't exactly match up to mechanisms and the through holes can be off a millimeter or two causing issues with guide rails and post locations.

I haven't installed the WH2O Mirco playfield yet. However, I did install a new Mirco Whirlwind playfield. I was happy with the clear coat and colors. It's held up well with about 500 plays so far.

Issues with Whirlwind playfield (I traded my original to be used as the template for a new Mirco field):

1. "NE" decal missing from an insert. This affected multiple people who purchased from the original run. The company was indifferent and I don't know if anybody received a replacement or partial refund due to this omission.
2. The shooter lane/trough kickout area. Something was off by a few mm. Stock WW Cliffy's did not fit properly. Cliff was kind enough to create a Mirco version of the kick-out area proector based on the template I sent him.
3. The dimples were off on multiple mechanisms (pops, flippers, lift ramp area, etc). This was both irritating and disappointing, since my field was supposed to be the template, I expected a plug and play repopulation.

I spent the holiday building a new batch of boards.

Your Bigfoot deserves a spotlight and roasty, toasty toes during the Hotfoot mode.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02183-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-amp-hot-foot-lighting-

IMG_7840 (resized).JPG

Yes, you probably blew the 5V regulator(6-A, 4.5-Vto14-VINPUT, NON-ISOLATED, ADJUSTABLEWIDE-OUTPUT, SWITCHING REGULATOR , part
PTR08060WVD).

I blew it in the past working on the machine while on.

Cheap and easy to replace.

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ptr08060wvd/texas-instruments

I have a rottendog board. Called rottendog and their tech walked me through troubleshooting and That is the part I blew.

I do not think the original board has the same type of regulator.

So I took a look at my WW and WH2O and discovered neither one had a one way gate.

So time to make some. In case you never seen the Marco kit (12-WS-KIT, wire bending starter kit), the jig is useful for making your own gates and other wire forms.

Not the most elegant gate for WW but it works.

IMG_8723 (resized).JPG

IMG_8724 (resized).JPG

IMG_8725 (resized).JPG

IMG_8727 (resized).JPG

I can't believe I was 0 for 2 on one-way gates. Got the White Water finished also. It took a couple of practice runs to get the first one done for WW but the second for WH2O went a lot quicker.
The Jig worked well for forming the wire gates but to get the tight 90 degree bends, needle nose pliers work well.
You can eyeball the bends so that the gate hangs level or if you're really a perfectionist there are calculator guides available for bending wire like this one:

https://www.rc-airplanes-simplified.com/wire-bender.html
IMG_8730 (resized).JPGIMG_8729 (resized).JPG

Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02183-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-amp-hot-foot-lighting-

FREE SHIPPING DURING MARCH 2021

Free USA shipping for the month of March on Bigfoot spotlight and Hotfoot mod! Half price shipping for international ($10).

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02183-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-amp-hot-foot-lighting-

I've an original WH2O (head has never been re-painted) and it does not have the foil. Probably a Friday production machine.

Yes. My wrist material (where fur meets molded hands) was sticky/tacky but wouldn't adhere to the surface. Same with part of the head.
I re-adhered with Loctite Vinyl, Fabric & Plastic flexible adhesive.

Couldn’t resist-you need some lights:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1171-pinball-z/02183-white-water-bigfoot-spotlight-amp-hot-foot-lighting-

Glad you like the Bigfoot mod. Thanks for the complement.

Longshot- verify the position of your rubbers on the flippers themselves and make sure they are seated correctly. Also make sure your bat has the proper gap setting. If the flipper is too high/low and/or rubbers are too high/low it will affect the ball trajectory. I'm not a golfer but the analogy would be driver vs iron or wedge.

My memory might be faulty but I believe there is a set screw. Look at the back of the head near the base. There might be a hex screw you can loosen and slightly move the head higher and re-tighten.

Sunlight

You can contact me directly and I’ll send you a link. Same with installation questions.

Confused. Which ramp are you looking for?

Sorry, I no longer have that ramp. Good luck with the search.