(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



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  • 462 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by Lhyrgoif
  • Topic is favorited by 211 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider yzfguy.
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#41 6 years ago

old ramps......new ramps!

IMG_20130507_080811_860.jpg IMG_20130509_105330_406.jpg

#88 6 years ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Also have a WW.. it was the first pin I bought back in 2000 and still one of my favorites..

whirlwind? This is a wh20 thread!

#92 6 years ago
Quoted from pinster68:

WH-twenty?
Actually this is a WH2O thread.

I always hated that class. especially doing those element charts!

#94 6 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Gentlemen focus!

"Focus!" ......isn't that creech? wrong thread!

1 week later
#136 6 years ago

me too! 2011-01-26_06-03-28_718.jpg

#156 6 years ago

i put all new ramps in and the ball basically just falls into the whirlpool now. I am hoping as the ramp gets some wear, it will grab the ball more so it can spin....opposite of waxing!

2 weeks later
#218 6 years ago

sweet!

#220 6 years ago

I agree. I think some games look great with leds ...like bsd. but whitewater is one I love with the stock glow

#236 6 years ago

really? I think I would prefer the 4 or 5 spins to waiting forever.

#245 6 years ago

welcome aboard tp! Now you can stop harrassing me for mine and enjoy I have the missing mountain and colordmd and recommend both.

10
#257 6 years ago

Those legs are aweful! to each his own, it's still a whitewater!

1 week later
#270 6 years ago

Home rom gives the ball back. Mine drains down the middle on a hard plunge.

2 months later
#348 6 years ago

As a repair newbie myself.....I would guess that a wire came loose along the line. I don't believe a coil will just stop working like that. I would check wiring/fuses first.

#351 6 years ago
Quoted from hlaj78:

Is there a wire missing on that bottom lug?

I think I see an orange wire on there.

#353 6 years ago

Welcome, wish you were closer so I could help out

2 months later
#414 6 years ago

If you're looking for quick and easy, order a pre selected kit online. Cointaker puts together a nice kit, just costs a few bucks more than doing it yourself.

1 month later
#446 6 years ago

'sposed to drain on a hard plunge.

#451 6 years ago

I love those protectors. Bullet proof, and once I got them in there I actually liked the way they looked.

8 months later
#619 5 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I'll tell you the only thing i hate aboot Wh20, the goddamn insanity Falls switch. If you have to replace it, it's directly in the hardest spot to reach. It would probably be easy with a PF prop arm...which for some reason isn;t on the machine.
That upper PF lamp location is also horrible, but I've moved on and just accepted no light there.

LOL..I had a battle with that switch too.....such a pain to get to and I had to do it a few times before I got it right. We have since made up and moved on

1 month later
#715 5 years ago

looks nice! welcome to wet willy's!!!!!

#742 5 years ago
Quoted from netminda:

If you have nice clean, clear dome it does not lessen the waterfall effect. That WH2O topper decal is not replaceable at the moment, so if nothing else get the dome to protect it.
Rob

The decal is replaceable, as long as your foil is in good shape in the water areas.

#751 5 years ago

I went all new ramps.....smooooth...You will love it!IMG_20130507_080754_037.jpgIMG_20130507_080745_690.jpg

#758 5 years ago

No riveting or trimming for me. One decal on the big ramp needed to be stuck on. It's a lot of ramp, but not too difficult.

#766 5 years ago

92% here

#792 5 years ago

I put all new ramps in and installed the mantis protectors so my ramps wouldnt get chewed up like the originals were. They went in easy, and I actually like the way they look.

1 week later
#867 5 years ago

1 week later
#917 5 years ago

mine rubs the glass when taking it off/putting it on. Never hurt anything.

3 weeks later
#1012 5 years ago

ooh. those even look nice covering the top screw on the star post

1 week later
#1024 5 years ago

wow, some pretty dirty ramps there!

1 week later
#1035 5 years ago

mwong...
it must be an optical illusion, but your wh20 looks so much smaller than I500.

#1060 5 years ago

what was difficult? I took my time, stuck it on, and it looks awesome!

#1069 5 years ago

those little boulder stickers..... when you peel the back of the sicker off, those are held in place by a front opaque piece that keeps everything aligned when you stick it on. Then you peel off the front piece and it's all applied properly. If you're old enough to remember..mit's like those oakley stickers we put on our windshields in the 80's

2 weeks later
#1094 5 years ago

Never seen that mssing mountain...this is mine.IMG_20150424_060028_828.jpg

#1099 5 years ago

Red West is the guy who made and sopd these back in the day

#1102 5 years ago

It is a different mountain.

1 week later
#1114 5 years ago

not normal

#1116 5 years ago

where are ya located?

1 week later
#1131 5 years ago

I think it's pretty unanimous that leds look terrible in the topper chase lights.

#1142 5 years ago

welcome

2 months later
#1234 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi guys! So I finally put my VUK back together. I completely stripped it, cleaned it and then reflowed the solder on the opto boards which I had proven already work (see my earlier posts).
So I turned on the game. I press START. I hear the sound bite for the VUK and it fires. Then the sound bite for the VUK sounds again and it fires. So something is still messed up.
Do I go into switch test mode now? Anyone ever had a similar issue to this?

had this issue and if i remember correctly, it was the plastic end of the kickout (where it makes contact with the ball) had broken off. This made the plunger too short and it would still kick the ball out, but messed with the opto. I replaced the plunger and all good.

#1238 4 years ago

Yes, ball popper cup. I have no idea how or why, but that was my fix

#1240 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Yep. I tested and cleaned the bejesus out of them all. They sparkle in the sun now! I'll try the switch test tonight.

I'll take the one off the gold mine VUK and put it onto the VUK I'm having problems with. I will report back tonight.

fingers crossed!

#1247 4 years ago

sorry, it's been a while but I could have sworn that cup did it for me!

2 months later
#1375 4 years ago

If you end up needing to replace the entire switch, Pinball life sells them with a new diode already on there for pennies more.

2 months later
#1454 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

it's something that I probably don't have to worry about since it won't be on route anyway...

This, in my opinion.

3 weeks later
#1478 4 years ago

Terry at pinballlife sells the whole assembly for the upper. Just pop out the old and in with the new, snappy flipper.

#1495 4 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Not sure what you mean. This is an LED strip. I wouldn't pay £20 either. It was free.

Link to free LEDs please!

1 week later
#1514 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

I've always thought this too. It makes absolutely no sense in relation to the theme of the game.
The one for sale linked a few posts ago may have cost the owner a lot of time and money to do, but in my opinion it is ruined. If I was to put an offer on something like that, it would be half what I would offer for an unmolested example. It would cost a lot of time and money to undo it all!

It would be cheaper to airbrush hard nipples onto all of the characters to simulate cold weather rafting.

#1526 4 years ago

It's "kind of" the missing mountain.

3 weeks later
#1567 4 years ago

Have you messed with board to board ribbon cables? I had one off by one pin and a bunch of switches went wonky. Make sure they are all on correctly and firmly.

1 week later
#1613 4 years ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

Just installed colordmd and blue speaker light kit -- man it really is a great improvement!! I was surprised how cool the speakers look lit up.. Wasn't convinced until I've seen it in person.

Pics!

#1629 4 years ago

Metric bulbs

2 weeks later
#1689 4 years ago
Quoted from thewool:

One thing is not clear to me, is the ball supposed to go SDTM from a full plunge?
If it doesn't, what is the tweak to stop this? My machine seems levelled, etc.
Thanks.

It is supposed to. The skill shot is getting it to go just over the hump and land on the upper playfield for the third flipper.

#1693 4 years ago

Mine drains about 95% of the time on a full plunge, but nobody full plunges whitewater anyway

#1695 4 years ago

Let this be the first of many lessons for him.....you don't full plunge wh20, you don't eat food right out of the oven, you don't play in the street....all have negative results

#1710 4 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

If you plunge too hard and the ball drains, you get it back if it didn't hit any switches.
The Fuse 110 issue is probably the light socket on the left side of the playfield under the mountain. Lift the playfield and look for a socket on the left edge directly above or below the support rail. The 44 bayonet socket is probably touching it as the hold is RIGHT ON the rail.

That ball save is only on the newer rom.

#1755 4 years ago

I will be curious to see how paint holds up. I have to admit, I didn't want to like this because it seemed like a cheap and easy way to do it- but it looks really nice now and if it doesn't scratch or wear off.....party on

#1778 4 years ago

Hey, thanks for the honest feedback.

#1781 4 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

If you are finishing a restoration don't forget to get a set of the green oblong lock target protectors from Mantis Amusements.
They are a necessity, unless you want to keep hunting down targets and want cracked ramps.
http://www.mantisamusements.com/ww.htm
I have had a set on mine for over a decade when they were first released.
These are in addition to Cliffy upgrades for the Disaster Drop ramp or any other part of the machine.

I put those on when I replaced my ramps. At first I was thinking they were gonna look industrial and I wouldn't need them for home use, but decided to use them anyway and they actually look really nice. They are cutout to let light shine thru the targets and look nice and clean.

#1784 4 years ago

To get to wet Willy's ya need to complete all shots with lit yellow arrows.

#1799 4 years ago
Quoted from jsyjay:

Here's my powder coated bits I picked up last Friday ready to go one once the cab is ready
I put the coin door back together over the weekend.

IMG_3490_(resized).JPGIMG_3462_(resized).JPG

Ya threw them in the back of the car?! I woulda had them wrapped up!

1 week later
#1825 4 years ago

I like 'em...you will have these at Allentown, right?

#1827 4 years ago
Quoted from pinupgirl1975:

Yes sir! Make sure you come visit me !!

I want the 3d snake mod to cover up my terrible original version . It is gonna seem so wrong to cover this one up! Oops, this isn't the met thread

#1834 4 years ago

Dead tree falling as a diverter might have been cool!

#1842 4 years ago

Those look awesome!

#1851 4 years ago

Yeah, it kinda looks flattened out to me.

1 week later
#1893 4 years ago

Pinblades in!

IMG_20160511_154518103_(resized).jpg

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IMG_20160511_154546767_(resized).jpg

#1897 4 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Looks like it belongs there by design! Congrats!
(the AFM besides WH2O looks stellar too )

Thanks. I wasn't sure about the design until I saw them on a game. I agree, they look like they belong

1 week later
#1924 4 years ago
Quoted from dylandog:

this is two homemade mods from my WW

To each their own, but I can honestly say I would rip both of those out immediately
A truck in a river?

#1943 4 years ago
Quoted from aeneas:

If the upkicker assembly is clean then the coil should have enough strength to kick the ball out from the first time. So check it's not dirty..
What most happens is that the ramp itself isn't screwed tight into the playfield anymore. That makes the pinball lose a lot of speed.

On mine, the plastic cup had broken off the end of the plunger that kicks the ball up. I believe it's called a bell armature I had to replace and solved the issue. It's plastic, so not the most durable thing.

1 week later
#1959 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

Before you bend any metal as per other suggestions, shine a flashlight down the upkicker hole and check the condition of the 'Ball Popper Cup' (Part Number 03-8561). I experienced this exact problem and it was due to the 4 teeth that hold the ball centred being worn/broken (see attached photo). This allows a second ball to sit across the edge of the cup, which then gets squeezed when the coil fires, slowing it and causing the ball that was in the cup to lose momentum and fail to complete the arc.
A new Ball Popper Cup with 4 nice teeth eliminated this problem 100%.

It's like I've heard this before.......

#1963 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgonzola:

Except that you mentioned the wrong part and described a situation where the part is missing altogether.
I described a situation where the part itself is still present but may not appear to be broken to someone who has a quick glance or may not realise that the part is supposed to have 4 teeth. Additionally I included the part number as this is helpful for those that don't have the manuals or know where to find them.
I was also re-iterating that they should look at this aspect before worrying about the wire form as this failure is more likely.
What's the problem?

There is no problem. I was being a smart-ass.

1 month later
#1995 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Welcome back Cobra! Now take those hideous blow lights out of there

LOL, I was gonna say he playfield looks great......when I squint feom the led glare!

#1998 3 years ago

Red is factory, but all us cool folks switch to blue.

#2005 3 years ago

I am a cross breed, I guess. I have blue flasher domes and whirlpool bulbs, but kept regular bulbs in the g.i.

#2007 3 years ago

Not me, never sold one.

#2019 3 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

Here is the link to a short video I put up of the LEDs in my WH2O:
» YouTube video

What's going on on the back Boulder behind the whirlpool is lit sign? Mint looking game, I can't imagine that being white tape holding the boulder together?

1 week later
#2042 3 years ago

Boulder blades! Those look great!

#2044 3 years ago

Still love my pingraffix blades

IMG_20160511_154546767_(resized).jpg

1 month later
#2098 3 years ago
Quoted from TomN:

I know you're correct. I think it's kind of silly to be honest though. How can a topper of all things have an effect on the value of a pin in such a profound way. I'm not arguing that it's not cool looking that's for sure. If you had a choice between a pin that's a little beat up with a topper and one that's cherry with no topper...Which one would most people choose?

On a whitewater, the one with the topper.

#2109 3 years ago
Quoted from TKDalumni:

Should you be able to backhand spine chiller?

I can...mm about one out of 50 tries

1 week later
#2158 3 years ago

On a few of my games, the bottom left of that board has 12 volt spots where no connector had been affixed. You can solder right to the pads, or attach a connector.

3 months later
#2276 3 years ago

IMHO... White looks a lot like ass.

#2280 3 years ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

What kind of ass are we talking about?

LOL... Neither of those!

2 weeks later
#2302 3 years ago
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:

It's the German's who have a passion for Pinball not America.
Look who makes 3d Translites, Hi Fi Sounds boards, Playfields, Color LCD Displays for this and other Pinball Machines.

Riiight... All great mods..... To put on all those Pinball machines.......... Which were made in America......

2 weeks later
#2360 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Sent a WH2O to High End Pins. What are the groups opinions on LED vs LCD colorDMD for this game? Appreciate it!

I love my LCD colordmd in wh20, but haven't seen the led version in it yet.

1 week later
#2374 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Joined the club! First impression just GREEEEEAT!!!!
The only potential issue is with the plunger: on my machine, even at maximum "power", the plunger launches the ball just up to the top of the top orbit, but then the ball falls back ALWAYS to the upper flipper. And from there you can shoot for the skill shot. I am wondering if the plunger should be able, with maximum force, to launch the ball all around the top orbit, or not. In this case the player should skillfully launch the ball not too strongly in order to have the ball to come back to the top flipper. So, how the stock plunger is supposed to work?

If you launch at full speed, mine goes sdtm. That way it's a skill shot to barely clear the top hill and use the upper flipper. I bet someone put a weaker spring in yours to avoid newbie frustration.

2 weeks later
#2411 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Should just be black plastic that's lightly cupped on the end that strikes the ball.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

Can ya say that again...... A little slower....?

2 weeks later
#2447 3 years ago

Cant really tell the translite difference in a picture. I would ditch all of the blue overkill leds personally.

#2461 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Don't think LED is available for awhile so that may not matter. Doubt there's juch if a difference...I have the first run lcd with no up scaling and it still looks 100 times better than orange

?? I have a first run LCD in my AFM. Don't they all have the same modes once the software is updated?

1 month later
#2508 3 years ago

I was just playing a few games, and thinking how much I love these pinblades!

IMG_20170331_212851391 (resized).jpg

#2534 3 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Have you considered just putting in LEDs in the place of the incandescent bulbs? I know that they don't have the "soft fading" effect that really makes the waterfall look good, but that'd probably be the best way to keep the heat off the topper.

LEDs look terrible in there. Holes aren't gonna hurt anything even if they don't help.

#2536 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Are there any better solutions? What if you only replaced every other one with led?

The way I look at it is this: my game has a few bubbles behind the foil. It was probably on for many hours, and the small amount of hours I will put on it in comparison are surely not going to make it any worse. I think of them as character bubbles that nobody in the real world would ever even notice.

#2546 3 years ago

It looks better than no chase effect, but still more instant on and off than standard bulbs. I think that is a good option if you had no other choice, but standard set up kicks it's ass.

1 month later
#2568 3 years ago

Please tell me the tree and bear were removed after you noticed them while taking the pic.

1 month later
#2601 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I'll try cables today... I haven't looked, but I'm assuming the lock lights are opto driven. Perhaps the optos are dirty (or the opto board is bad?
My WH2O has brand new rottendog boards. So I'd be surprised if backbox boards were an issue.

Lock lights are activated by the two standup targets.

1 month later
#2620 2 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

another question: beside spotting RIVER letters, do inlanes microswitches have other purposes? I mean, if I remove them (and the below lights of course), is there any aspect of the gameplay/software that could be involved? I will get the credit dot after some games of course, but, apart from, that anything else?

Why would you remove them?

#2628 2 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

My problem is I reach level 6 too often. Quite easy using the inlanes. I have the latest ROM, and Im fine holding river level if I make enough shots in the disaster drop.
But yes, by removing the right inlane switch, multimillions will be lost, too. Not a big loss by the way..

I like the multimillions shot. I would never disconnect switches to lose a feature. Does reaching level 6 really ruin the game for you? I just don't get this.

1 week later
#2636 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

is there any easy way to access / replace the bulbs under the whirlpool? Or the flasher in the Lozt Mine?
Thanks!

I know the lost mine one is accessible from the side when the playfield is raised.

1 month later
#2674 2 years ago

I prefer the blue whirlpool bulbs myself. It's water.

#2703 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Ok, whirl pool light people. I alternated white and blue frosted LEDs in mine.

Pics or it didn't happen

4 weeks later
#2743 2 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

I need to find replacement inserts for these pictured. What's the Williams part number?

Not that I know much about this, but are the inserts actually damaged? It looks like the clear has chipped away, bit the inserts may be fine?

2 months later
#2832 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

. Not the best game

What? Whitewater is an awesome game! It is packed full of features and shots and has great flow. Aside from the 6k price on this one, I can't imagine regretting picking up a wh20 for any collection.

2 weeks later
#2862 2 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Hello? Anybody out there? Was hoping at least for a welcome...

Welcome!

4 weeks later
#2912 2 years ago

That is sexy...

#2924 2 years ago

Ad placed in marketplace to sell mine in Jersey...in case anyone wants in the club

9 months later
#3517 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Ive heard folks say they get tired of hearing the “whee-a-wheet!” sound from No Way Out to the upper flipper. I say, grow some stones and take the Spine Chiller up top!!! Try hitting Insanity Falls from Spine Chiller. That takes some skillz

That sound is probably the only thing I would change on the game.

4 months later
#3995 1 year ago

Hey, Willy fans...... does anyone sell the speaker grills with the red logo?

#4008 1 year ago

Anyone know if the sticker is available that covers the wear on the playfield near the mine kick out?

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