(Topic ID: 57710)
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White Water
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from aeneas:Also have a WW.. it was the first pin I bought back in 2000 and still one of my favorites..
whirlwind? This is a wh20 thread! 
Quoted from pinster68:WH-twenty?
Actually this is a WH2O thread.
I always hated that class. especially doing those element charts!
Quoted from Skypilot:Gentlemen focus!
"Focus!" ......isn't that creech? wrong thread!
1 week later
i put all new ramps in and the ball basically just falls into the whirlpool now. I am hoping as the ramp gets some wear, it will grab the ball more so it can spin....opposite of waxing!
2 weeks later
I agree. I think some games look great with leds ...like bsd. but whitewater is one I love with the stock glow
welcome aboard tp! Now you can stop harrassing me for mine and enjoy I have the missing mountain and colordmd and recommend both.
1 week later
2 months later
As a repair newbie myself.....I would guess that a wire came loose along the line. I don't believe a coil will just stop working like that. I would check wiring/fuses first.
Quoted from hlaj78:Is there a wire missing on that bottom lug?
I think I see an orange wire on there.
2 months later
If you're looking for quick and easy, order a pre selected kit online. Cointaker puts together a nice kit, just costs a few bucks more than doing it yourself.
1 month later
I love those protectors. Bullet proof, and once I got them in there I actually liked the way they looked.
8 months later
Quoted from TheLaw:I'll tell you the only thing i hate aboot Wh20, the goddamn insanity Falls switch. If you have to replace it, it's directly in the hardest spot to reach. It would probably be easy with a PF prop arm...which for some reason isn;t on the machine.
That upper PF lamp location is also horrible, but I've moved on and just accepted no light there.
LOL..I had a battle with that switch too.....such a pain to get to and I had to do it a few times before I got it right. We have since made up and moved on
1 month later
Quoted from netminda:If you have nice clean, clear dome it does not lessen the waterfall effect. That WH2O topper decal is not replaceable at the moment, so if nothing else get the dome to protect it.
Rob
The decal is replaceable, as long as your foil is in good shape in the water areas.
No riveting or trimming for me. One decal on the big ramp needed to be stuck on. It's a lot of ramp, but not too difficult.
I put all new ramps in and installed the mantis protectors so my ramps wouldnt get chewed up like the originals were. They went in easy, and I actually like the way they look.
1 week later
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those little boulder stickers..... when you peel the back of the sicker off, those are held in place by a front opaque piece that keeps everything aligned when you stick it on. Then you peel off the front piece and it's all applied properly. If you're old enough to remember..mit's like those oakley stickers we put on our windshields in the 80's
2 weeks later
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2 months later
Quoted from Fifty:Hi guys! So I finally put my VUK back together. I completely stripped it, cleaned it and then reflowed the solder on the opto boards which I had proven already work (see my earlier posts).
So I turned on the game. I press START. I hear the sound bite for the VUK and it fires. Then the sound bite for the VUK sounds again and it fires. So something is still messed up.
Do I go into switch test mode now? Anyone ever had a similar issue to this?
had this issue and if i remember correctly, it was the plastic end of the kickout (where it makes contact with the ball) had broken off. This made the plunger too short and it would still kick the ball out, but messed with the opto. I replaced the plunger and all good.
Quoted from Fifty:Yep. I tested and cleaned the bejesus out of them all. They sparkle in the sun now! I'll try the switch test tonight.
I'll take the one off the gold mine VUK and put it onto the VUK I'm having problems with. I will report back tonight.
fingers crossed!
2 months later
If you end up needing to replace the entire switch, Pinball life sells them with a new diode already on there for pennies more.
2 months later
Quoted from Mbecker:it's something that I probably don't have to worry about since it won't be on route anyway...
This, in my opinion.
3 weeks later
Terry at pinballlife sells the whole assembly for the upper. Just pop out the old and in with the new, snappy flipper.
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:Not sure what you mean. This is an LED strip. I wouldn't pay £20 either. It was free.
Link to free LEDs please!
1 week later
Quoted from Gorgonzola:I've always thought this too. It makes absolutely no sense in relation to the theme of the game.
The one for sale linked a few posts ago may have cost the owner a lot of time and money to do, but in my opinion it is ruined. If I was to put an offer on something like that, it would be half what I would offer for an unmolested example. It would cost a lot of time and money to undo it all!
It would be cheaper to airbrush hard nipples onto all of the characters to simulate cold weather rafting.
3 weeks later
Have you messed with board to board ribbon cables? I had one off by one pin and a bunch of switches went wonky. Make sure they are all on correctly and firmly.
1 week later
Quoted from Mbecker:Just installed colordmd and blue speaker light kit -- man it really is a great improvement!! I was surprised how cool the speakers look lit up.. Wasn't convinced until I've seen it in person.
Pics!
2 weeks later
Quoted from thewool:One thing is not clear to me, is the ball supposed to go SDTM from a full plunge?
If it doesn't, what is the tweak to stop this? My machine seems levelled, etc.
Thanks.
It is supposed to. The skill shot is getting it to go just over the hump and land on the upper playfield for the third flipper.
Let this be the first of many lessons for him.....you don't full plunge wh20, you don't eat food right out of the oven, you don't play in the street....all have negative results 
Quoted from judremy:If you plunge too hard and the ball drains, you get it back if it didn't hit any switches.
The Fuse 110 issue is probably the light socket on the left side of the playfield under the mountain. Lift the playfield and look for a socket on the left edge directly above or below the support rail. The 44 bayonet socket is probably touching it as the hold is RIGHT ON the rail.
That ball save is only on the newer rom.
I will be curious to see how paint holds up. I have to admit, I didn't want to like this because it seemed like a cheap and easy way to do it- but it looks really nice now and if it doesn't scratch or wear off.....party on
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:If you are finishing a restoration don't forget to get a set of the green oblong lock target protectors from Mantis Amusements.
They are a necessity, unless you want to keep hunting down targets and want cracked ramps.
http://www.mantisamusements.com/ww.htm
I have had a set on mine for over a decade when they were first released.
These are in addition to Cliffy upgrades for the Disaster Drop ramp or any other part of the machine.
I put those on when I replaced my ramps. At first I was thinking they were gonna look industrial and I wouldn't need them for home use, but decided to use them anyway and they actually look really nice. They are cutout to let light shine thru the targets and look nice and clean.
Quoted from jsyjay:Here's my powder coated bits I picked up last Friday ready to go one once the cab is ready
I put the coin door back together over the weekend.IMG_3490_(resized).JPGIMG_3462_(resized).JPG
Ya threw them in the back of the car?! I woulda had them wrapped up!
1 week later
Quoted from pinupgirl1975:Yes sir! Make sure you come visit me !!
I want the 3d snake mod to cover up my terrible original version . It is gonna seem so wrong to cover this one up! Oops, this isn't the met thread
1 week later
Quoted from Thor-NL:Looks like it belongs there by design! Congrats!
(the AFM besides WH2O looks stellar too )
Thanks. I wasn't sure about the design until I saw them on a game. I agree, they look like they belong
1 week later
Quoted from dylandog:this is two homemade mods from my WW
To each their own, but I can honestly say I would rip both of those out immediately
A truck in a river?
Quoted from aeneas:If the upkicker assembly is clean then the coil should have enough strength to kick the ball out from the first time. So check it's not dirty..
What most happens is that the ramp itself isn't screwed tight into the playfield anymore. That makes the pinball lose a lot of speed.
On mine, the plastic cup had broken off the end of the plunger that kicks the ball up. I believe it's called a bell armature I had to replace and solved the issue. It's plastic, so not the most durable thing.
1 week later
Quoted from Gorgonzola:Before you bend any metal as per other suggestions, shine a flashlight down the upkicker hole and check the condition of the 'Ball Popper Cup' (Part Number 03-8561). I experienced this exact problem and it was due to the 4 teeth that hold the ball centred being worn/broken (see attached photo). This allows a second ball to sit across the edge of the cup, which then gets squeezed when the coil fires, slowing it and causing the ball that was in the cup to lose momentum and fail to complete the arc.
A new Ball Popper Cup with 4 nice teeth eliminated this problem 100%.
It's like I've heard this before.......
Quoted from Gorgonzola:Except that you mentioned the wrong part and described a situation where the part is missing altogether.
I described a situation where the part itself is still present but may not appear to be broken to someone who has a quick glance or may not realise that the part is supposed to have 4 teeth. Additionally I included the part number as this is helpful for those that don't have the manuals or know where to find them.
I was also re-iterating that they should look at this aspect before worrying about the wire form as this failure is more likely.
What's the problem?
There is no problem. I was being a smart-ass.
1 month later
Quoted from TheLaw:Welcome back Cobra! Now take those hideous blow lights out of there
LOL, I was gonna say he playfield looks great......when I squint feom the led glare!
I am a cross breed, I guess. I have blue flasher domes and whirlpool bulbs, but kept regular bulbs in the g.i.
Quoted from judremy:Here is the link to a short video I put up of the LEDs in my WH2O:
» YouTube video
What's going on on the back Boulder behind the whirlpool is lit sign? Mint looking game, I can't imagine that being white tape holding the boulder together?
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from TomN:I know you're correct. I think it's kind of silly to be honest though. How can a topper of all things have an effect on the value of a pin in such a profound way. I'm not arguing that it's not cool looking that's for sure. If you had a choice between a pin that's a little beat up with a topper and one that's cherry with no topper...Which one would most people choose?
On a whitewater, the one with the topper.
Quoted from TKDalumni:Should you be able to backhand spine chiller?
I can...mm about one out of 50 tries
1 week later
On a few of my games, the bottom left of that board has 12 volt spots where no connector had been affixed. You can solder right to the pads, or attach a connector.
3 months later
Quoted from Skins:I went yellow. Well, an off yellow.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh2o-restoration-ride-the-rapids/page/3#post-3430509
Quoted from Kneissl:What kind of ass are we talking about?
LOL... Neither of those!
2 weeks later
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:It's the German's who have a passion for Pinball not America.
Look who makes 3d Translites, Hi Fi Sounds boards, Playfields, Color LCD Displays for this and other Pinball Machines.
Riiight... All great mods..... To put on all those Pinball machines.......... Which were made in America...... 
2 weeks later
Quoted from Cserold:Sent a WH2O to High End Pins. What are the groups opinions on LED vs LCD colorDMD for this game? Appreciate it!
I love my LCD colordmd in wh20, but haven't seen the led version in it yet.
1 week later
Quoted from Luppin:Joined the club! First impression just GREEEEEAT!!!!
The only potential issue is with the plunger: on my machine, even at maximum "power", the plunger launches the ball just up to the top of the top orbit, but then the ball falls back ALWAYS to the upper flipper. And from there you can shoot for the skill shot. I am wondering if the plunger should be able, with maximum force, to launch the ball all around the top orbit, or not. In this case the player should skillfully launch the ball not too strongly in order to have the ball to come back to the top flipper. So, how the stock plunger is supposed to work?
If you launch at full speed, mine goes sdtm. That way it's a skill shot to barely clear the top hill and use the upper flipper. I bet someone put a weaker spring in yours to avoid newbie frustration.
2 weeks later
Quoted from mbaumle:Should just be black plastic that's lightly cupped on the end that strikes the ball.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767
Can ya say that again...... A little slower....?
2 weeks later
Cant really tell the translite difference in a picture. I would ditch all of the blue overkill leds personally.
Quoted from TheLaw:Don't think LED is available for awhile so that may not matter. Doubt there's juch if a difference...I have the first run lcd with no up scaling and it still looks 100 times better than orange
?? I have a first run LCD in my AFM. Don't they all have the same modes once the software is updated?
1 month later
Quoted from mbaumle:Have you considered just putting in LEDs in the place of the incandescent bulbs? I know that they don't have the "soft fading" effect that really makes the waterfall look good, but that'd probably be the best way to keep the heat off the topper.
LEDs look terrible in there. Holes aren't gonna hurt anything even if they don't help.
Quoted from paynemic:Are there any better solutions? What if you only replaced every other one with led?
The way I look at it is this: my game has a few bubbles behind the foil. It was probably on for many hours, and the small amount of hours I will put on it in comparison are surely not going to make it any worse. I think of them as character bubbles that nobody in the real world would ever even notice.
It looks better than no chase effect, but still more instant on and off than standard bulbs. I think that is a good option if you had no other choice, but standard set up kicks it's ass.
1 month later
Quoted from Skyemont:I'm in.
Please tell me the tree and bear were removed after you noticed them while taking the pic.
1 month later
Quoted from 27dnast:I'll try cables today... I haven't looked, but I'm assuming the lock lights are opto driven. Perhaps the optos are dirty (or the opto board is bad?
My WH2O has brand new rottendog boards. So I'd be surprised if backbox boards were an issue.
Lock lights are activated by the two standup targets.
1 month later
Quoted from Luppin:another question: beside spotting RIVER letters, do inlanes microswitches have other purposes? I mean, if I remove them (and the below lights of course), is there any aspect of the gameplay/software that could be involved? I will get the credit dot after some games of course, but, apart from, that anything else?
Why would you remove them?
Quoted from Luppin:My problem is I reach level 6 too often. Quite easy using the inlanes. I have the latest ROM, and Im fine holding river level if I make enough shots in the disaster drop.
But yes, by removing the right inlane switch, multimillions will be lost, too. Not a big loss by the way..
I like the multimillions shot. I would never disconnect switches to lose a feature. Does reaching level 6 really ruin the game for you? I just don't get this.
1 week later
Quoted from BobC:is there any easy way to access / replace the bulbs under the whirlpool? Or the flasher in the Lozt Mine?
Thanks!
I know the lost mine one is accessible from the side when the playfield is raised.
1 month later
Quoted from tonyf1965:Ok, whirl pool light people. I alternated white and blue frosted LEDs in mine.
Pics or it didn't happen
4 weeks later
Quoted from Playdium:I need to find replacement inserts for these pictured. What's the Williams part number?
Not that I know much about this, but are the inserts actually damaged? It looks like the clear has chipped away, bit the inserts may be fine?
2 months later
Quoted from Hammerhead:. Not the best game
What? Whitewater is an awesome game! It is packed full of features and shots and has great flow. Aside from the 6k price on this one, I can't imagine regretting picking up a wh20 for any collection.
2 weeks later
Quoted from gcmess:Hello? Anybody out there? Was hoping at least for a welcome...
Welcome!
4 weeks later
9 months later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Ive heard folks say they get tired of hearing the “whee-a-wheet!” sound from No Way Out to the upper flipper. I say, grow some stones and take the Spine Chiller up top!!! Try hitting Insanity Falls from Spine Chiller. That takes some skillz
That sound is probably the only thing I would change on the game.
4 months later
Anyone know if the sticker is available that covers the wear on the playfield near the mine kick out?
1 year later
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:did you guys see Brian Allen's WW art yet? holy cow, its amazing. I don't even own a WW, but I had to buy that poster from him!
perfect translite interpretation by him. I'd buy that translite if i owned WW for sure!!!
I like the original artwork just fine.
2 months later
I'm back! Sold my WH20 a couple years ago and missed it. Picked up this light project today.... For some reason someone put a star trek speaker panel in. I have the correct one enroute. They also removed three entire switches and their brackets and I'm not sure I will find them. Anyone know where I might get these switch assemblies, or the brackets?I need the one from the spine chiller ramp entrance, and the bracket and two switches on the upper playfield leading to the "when flashing" ramps. I can't figure out why someone would remove these, but I guess if I can't find them I will have to rig something up the best I can and try to trace the wires. Good to be almost back in business. The playfield is really nice!
IMG_20210508_171744212 (resized).jpgIMG_20210508_171752194 (resized).jpgIMG_20210508_171802128 (resized).jpg
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Looks like a VERY light project to me! Looks pretty clean for a re-import! I was trying to source those brackets about 2 months ago, nobody had them...
You'll need the pigtails also, Marco is out of those too. The switches, screws, nuts, & fishpapers are readily available everywhere.
You have your work cut out on that detail. I did snag one bracket that Marco has, it looks like the right one in the pic, but its not, so dont buy em. You're welcome!
Thanks. Were yours missing too? I cant for the life of me figure out why they were removed. The Ramos are original, so it's not like they were lost during a swap, and I don't see some of the wiring or connectors under the playfield, so I will have to run wires from the connectors on the boards I guess. Weird. I may have to try to make these brackets out of sheet metal or something.... Yuk!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:No, mine were there, but I did a full top-side restore, so I wanted shiny now ones, didn't happen. The old ones cleaned up pretty enough though.
You may want to research an alternative, like MRS switches. Usually they have the same green/white 2-pin pigtails integrated as well.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-10293 Marco doesnt have them in stock, but theres a guy here on pinside who makes them, a simple forum search should help you find him quickly.
I have noticed over the years that Germans do a lot of weird and stupid shit to their pins, you'll never know the reason those switches were pulled and then apparently moronically discarded.
Well, I ordered three of these. They are Williams and while they don't list the exact dimensions, they look like they might do the trick. I hope so at 40 bucks each. I searched everywhere last night and can't find the exact assembly. Kinda sucks, and I'm thinking it's not too often someone parts out a wh20. I'm just going to have to figure out how to attach two behind the upper playfield sign where the double bracket is supposed to be. The good thing is, they are behind that sign, so as long as they work, they don't have to look perfect. Now I'm excited and just have to try to find this wiring under the playfield. I only see one little harness down there, so I'll have to wait til my manual gets here to check the connections at the boards and try to follow them down.
Quoted from Sonic:Heck our MRS' are cheaper than $40 pop, contactless and largely invisible.....
Sonic, Do you have a website? All I see when I click on your business name is contact info.
I guess I'd mount that under the ramp entrance instead of the switch being over the ramp? I'm not opposed to the idea, and I guess the top two could be suspended over the ramps since you can't see them anyway. I'd be interested in three of them.
I got lucky and had the city panel from my fishtales that I upgraded to the lighted speaker panel, and I found the plastic speaker panel cover on eBay from classic arcades- the only option I think is out there.
@theonlyest- thanks for the heads up. I wrote attempting to cancel the gate order from Marco. That would suck to get them and find they are too narrow.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:They are tiny, you can put them on the bottom or the side with super thin 2-sided tape. They are magnetic so the ball just needs to pass by it. They dont have to be mounted in the same spot as the gate, just close where there's room to attach it. If you attach them to the side, just dont put them where a metal ramp guard is in front of it. If I was in your situation, this is the only remedy I would be looking at... But i'd wanna know about the activation range of the MRS, because the ramp openings are pretty wide.
Yes, and I wasn't sure about how fast a ball could go by and be detected. The only reed switch I ever used was in the toilet bowl of a creature to get more revolutions out of the ball without slowing it down with a switch... But that ball was nice and slow.
Quoted from woody76:$40 is nuts for this
Yeah. If they were wide enough I wouldn't care but I cancelled that order and I'm going with the magnet switches
Ok, if these issues aren't specific enough to wh20, I will start a new topic.
Two more issues I found on my new game:
There are four flashers on the backbox panel not working properly. Two don't come on at all, two keep flashing non stop in attract mode. If I go into flasher test, they stop flashing and none of the four work during test or gameplay. Wiring looks in tact. I tried putting all incandescent flasher bulbs in, but no difference.
The other wierd thing I just noticed: if I get a high score, the game over music plays but upon ending a normal game, the sounds work during the match sequence and then just stop- no game over music.
Any suggestions?
Quoted from LTG:Grab the manual. Go over driver board connectors. Be sure they are in the right spots. Be sure the wires to each connector is in the right spots.
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd. Manual is on its way
Quoted from mbaumle:What ROM revision are you running? Have you tried a factory reset or removing the batteries? Not sure if it's applicable to WPC games, but Gottlieb System 3 games do some really funky stuff when theres junk in the RAM.
Thank you. I will try a factory reset. It has L-5 in there.
Quoted from mystman12:Whitewater doesn't have any game over music with the factory ROM (Just a high score theme). LH-6 plays the Wet Willy's music as a game over theme, and also has tons of bug fixes and general improvements. It's a must have upgrade for the game.
Ha! No wonder! This has been driving me crazy, and I had LH 6 in my last one.. never even thought about that. Thank you so much!
It's been a minute since I bought a burned ROM. Where do you guys get yours? I found a guy online at 12 bucks but then he wants 8 to ship. I'm sure it fits in an envelope.
Apparently the "original" missing mountain and the boulder shooter rod are no longer available? My game feels a little naked without these!
I did order LH6 from Matt, thanks, Woody76.
Quoted from Zartan:I just received “Skull Mountain” from judgedreads on eBay! I am going to clear coat it before I install it. I did find the missing mountain and Boulder shooter
Rod today. I’ve emailed them. I’ll keep you posted...
Yeah. Those emails will go unanswered 
I had these on my last game and made the mistake of letting them go with the game when I sold it. I should have known I'd end up with another Whitewater!
I don't care for that skull, and it doesn't cover the weird open area in the upper left, which is why I like the old school mountain. It really looks like it should be there.
Quoted from Tortelvis:Finally found some extra decals and dressed up the Mantis protectors. [quoted image]
Oh, man.... That looks awesome!
Quoted from LTG:Grab the manual. Go over driver board connectors. Be sure they are in the right spots. Be sure the wires to each connector is in the right spots.
LTG : )
As usual, LTG, you are the man! Got my manual today and sure enough, the connector for those flashers was plugged in the wrong spot! This was the same case with the fishtales I picked up last year, how do people just plug connectors in randomly?!
All good now! Thank you
@nerdygrrl..
I installed repro boulders and a full set of ramps in my last wh20 and both looked great. I had no issues with the ramps being too thick that I can remember, and they make the whole game look clean.
@the Onlyest and Sonic.... Thank you so much!
I got Sonic's switches today and not only do they work perfectly, they came wired correctly for Wh20 to idiot proof them for me. Took minutes and my switches work perfectly and look nice and stealthy!
What a nice guy to deal with and great product. I couldn't be happier with these!
So now my game is 99% working. Last issue is the boulder garden switch. So, it's wired up and the switch works, but it registers as switch 68 ( disaster drop entrance.)
I can't figure it out, because the opto on disaster drop registers properly as 68 too. The boulder garden switch is connected to a plug directly underneath it, no wiring looks hacked at that connector or on the boards. It's not like they were swapped with each other, which is what I was hoping for. Any ideas? I'm so psyched to be able to hot multimillions again!! This game is so awesome, I can't believe I ever sold my last one.
Quoted from LTG:I'd start with the switch matrix in the manual. The correct wires to each switch ?
LTG : )
Thanks, Lloyd.. just checked and the wire colors are correct. I just tested every other switch and they all come up appropriately. Only bigfoot's cave seems to be a duplicate, and none of the switches come up as big foot's cave.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I'd assume that the wires and/or diode orientation is wrong on that switch. Compare its lug connections to a similar type switch and make sure the diode is not backward.
Bingo! The white was to the center lug instead of the green. I think I make the mistake of believing that everyone else would make sure a switch was actually working after their hack repair.
Thank you so much for the advice. I am up and running 100% and it feels awesome!
Anyone know a source with new translite in stock? Some clown used a thick layer of white out on a scratch right behind the rafting girls face and it looks like she has a bloody nose when it's lit up.
I tried to get the white out to soften up and remove it, but no dice.
Quoted from daveyvandy:I'm not sure about an original one.
If you have trouble finding one, there's a pretty sweet alternative translite.
Thanks, I don't care for that one. Looking for a new original.
Quoted from Davi:Is 3D an option?
I don't mind the 3d, but it's like twice as expensive as the original. I was hoping maybe someone upgraded to the 3d or the remake art version and wanted to sell an original.
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:You can buy a new one from Flyland....Speaking of Flyland I ordered Inner side Art from them 4 weeks ago and haven't seen it yet.
It's new, but it's an alternate art package. I much prefer the original in this case. I get it when alternate art is done for games like the shadow, but wh20 already has great original art. I was hoping someone had replaced a good condition original with that one and might want to sell.
I ordered one from them two weeks ago and they are out of stock, no ETA I'd prefer they mark it out of stock than accept payment only to tell you it's out of stock and ask if you want a refund.
Quoted from Davi:If all else fails, there is a repro source in Europe.
I can help about postage (if direct shipping to USA is not possible).
Thanks. I put the translite face down last night and put little puddles of water where the genius gobbed on whiteout. And it actually softened it up so I was able to scrape it off with a fingernail. The bloody nose is gone now. He covered up a miniscule scratch with a huge gob of the stuff.
Anyway, it is presentable now, but does have a whole bunch of pinholes showing light thru if you really look. I'm ok with it, but I would still be I tereated in buying a new or really nice condition used one. Thanks, guys
Quoted from nocreditdot:I have the mirrored cpr version. I am very happy with it.
I had that on my whirlwind and liked it, but I was looking at whitewater and not sure if there is enough area to be mirrored to make it worth it.
I also got the missing mountain from Dinger. At his suggestion, I tried a furniture touch up marker and holy crap, it matches very well. I colored it in with the marker, and mounted it up with one screw beneath the left side of the front entrance with some thick goopy tape on it. I'm so happy to have this in my game
First pic is how it came, then half painted to match, then done. All of about ten minutes.
IMG_20210606_093820891 (resized).jpgIMG_20210606_094635768 (resized).jpgIMG_20210606_100959569 (resized).jpgIMG_20210606_101007255 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Jon9508:What color marker? I need to do this as well. The colors are way off
We had a whole set of furniture/.hardwood floor markers from years ago. The one I used is labeled "medium."
1623009787525706667728469404780 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinkitten:Just wondering if the missing mountain is available anywhere these days? If not, would a slice of pizza work? I was noticing the shape and trying to think outside the (pizza) box.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/115501
I bought this one from Dinger. It isn't the same as the one I had in my last game, but it actually fits the ramps better in some ways. He shipped super fast and even followed up to see if it arrived safely. Highly recommended and it is basically the only source for a mountain these days.
Quoted from RusticatedBelt:Sounds like you're well on your way. Find options for those remaining hurdles and you should be good to go.
You probably don't need the Rapids/Canyon Double Switch...that could be substituted out with a couple magnetic reed switches.
I have reed switches in those two and the spine chiller ramp and they work perfectly. Actually cleans up the look of the game too
Quoted from Zartan:Where can I find this mod?
[quoted image]
You can definitely find this at the top of my "why in the world?!" List.
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:I tested and installed a Speaker Delay Line. Works great. Cost $8.70.
I used the 18 VAC going to the Speaker Board. J501 pins 1 & 3 to power the Delay line.
UPC1237 Dual Channel Speaker Protection Circuit Board is just using Velcro to stay in place
[quoted image]
What is it?
3 weeks later
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I am still searching for this, please help a brother out! The bald bigfoot in my otherwise 99% restored game is making me OCD crazy!!
Mine is somehow armless. I tried making cloth arms and using some fur from down below but it was a fail. How the hell am I going to get bigfoot arms?! I can't understand why someone would remove them
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Well that sucks! I dont know which is worse! The cute thing is that Marco and everyone else sells a bald replacement head, but nobody sells any of the fur! Unless you want to attempt tearing apart a teddy bear and redo the whole bigfoot, you're just SOL on matching the head to the body or vice versa.
I was able to use an exacto knife and cut off a strip of fur around the base of his body. It fell apart I guess because of it's age, but maybe it would make a nice wig. You have to either remove that blue plastic at the base or drop the whole assembly to access it.
Can you guys tell me what the arms actually are? Tubes of cloth? I can't see where or how they would attach. I have hands on the log and need to make arms to fill the gap when he extends the log
2 weeks later
Quoted from PDX-Mike:Good evening everyone, we just joined the club! Had a Whitewater shipped from the east coast almost mint condition. The previous owner never had this issue, it will randomly kick a second ball into the trough. I familiar with new games having trough optos, what would be causing this?
I would put the game in switch edge test, and check the switch that sticks up through the shooter Lane by the plunger and make sure it is working consistently. If it isn't the game won't know a ball has been launched and will launch another.
Quoted from PDX-Mike:Problem solved!! Thank you for the advice!
What was the issue?
Quoted from Jherre6:How is everyone lighting there playfield more? I would consider pinstadiums, but they might not fit/or might block the view some.
I put some ice blue led strips under the upper playfield and my missing mountain for the top section.
IMG_20210607_211042125 (resized).jpgAnyone with bigfoot head expertise?
My guy stopped looking back when he diverts the ball, and I get a bigfoot error. In test mode, he spins each way, and the opto test works. But in the position test, it doesn't show which way he is facing. I'm thinking obviously the disc that interrupts the opto works, so why doesn't the game know his position? I get head position unknown error.
*Edit... Looks like in test mode, his head is having trouble moving counter clockwise and even sluggish clockwise. I looked in past posts and it leads me to the multidirectional board. I was reflowing solder as I don't see any leakage from the cap and thought it improved but it was short lived and went back to error after working properly for a few minutes. Seems like I could replace this cap or other components, but I took the lazy way out and ordered the homepin board from pinball life.
Quoted from bobukcat:Well LEDs CAN dim for certain but strickly for the purposes of the discussion specfic to WPC pinball machines - they don't without flickering unless you use a 3rd party board. If the OCD boards are not readily available I did read a comment in some other thread recently that there are similar products available that are made in the EU somewhere but I don't remember the name of it.
Ghosting is completely different and happens to controlled lamps, not GI. I don't remember the technical reasons too clearly but sufficit to say that it is caused by the matrixed / pulsed circuit design. These can usually be eliminated by using non-ghosting LEDs if you don't want the expense of an OCD or OCD like board and can live with the rapid on/off timing of an LED versus the smoothed ramp up/down you can get from the OCD type board. Some people's eyes are bothered by the flickering and others seem to be immune to it.
You lost me at "strickly"
Replaced my bigfoot board and he works great now. While I was in there, since you guys were talking about it, I removed the led g.i. bulbs that came in the game, and put incandescents in. It really does look a lot better. I had forgotten about the cool lighting effects until reading the above comments.
Only thing I'm not sure about is how dim the backbox looks. I don't remember it looking so dark on my last whitewater, but maybe it's just because I'm so used to LEDs now.
Quoted from Jherre6:Any idea what the "install 5 ball" option does in the settings and if there are any benefits to it?
Thanks!
It makes it so you get turns each game you play, instead of three. I hate it and consider it cheating, but some like it to allow them to progress more into the ruleset.
It has nothing to do with putting more balls physically into the game.
1 week later
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:You all have short Memory's....Way back when and before we had the notion of Shrinkflation, a standard game was 5 Balls.
This way way before WH20 came on the scene.
They went from 5 Balls down to 3 instead of increasing the price...Something of an expensive Coin slot update at the time.
Then came the increases to where we are now $2 for 3 Balls.
I have always had my games on 5 balls and if you think 3 Balls is the norm then you also have no idea of how you have all bean Conned just like what the FED is doing now printing Money back by ZERO.
Time to make a stand against this shit
Yeah,maybe that USED to be standard, but the rulesets on more recent games is centered around 3. Sometimes we need to let go of the past 3 balls for life!
#5ballsischeating
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from Jon9508:Pretty sure this is it.
My God. If that is it, I can't believe anyone would prefer it. Those voices sound so "fake" to me having played the game for years. It just sounds like a cheesy voice over. Ugh.
I'm all about mods, but this one is an easy pass from me. Even my kid who was sitting next to me as I played that started laughing.
Quoted from AnthonyT:https://olivierflippermod.com/accueil/395-lance-bille-white-water-flipper-pinball-mod.html
Here they sell a boulder shooter rod
Thank you. It's a little different looking but I may give it a shot. Can you confirm that this is a legitimate site? They have some interesting stuff and good prices.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Can you buy just the rod? Wish there was an English conversion. Buy a few and save shipping? .
My Google pops up a translator on the page. I don't see a shooter rod only option, but it's pretty cheap for the whole assembly. If I'm seeing it right, 65 bucks including shipping. Yeah that housing looks a little rough
Anyone have a source for target decals? I had some nice ones on my last wh20 that I can no longer find. The guy on ebay makes a set, but I don't love them.
Trying to provide arms for my poor bigfoot. No idea why they are missing. Can someone please take a pic with his arms extended so I can see how/where they are connected to him? His body fur looks fine, no holes or anything, so I can't tell how I would attach them even if I find a close match for the fur.
Thanks!
Quoted from Aflacjack:The arms are empty fur glued to the hands and then the shoulders
So they are just glued to the fur near the shoulder? I was wondering how mine doesn't have damage to the fur in that area where it would have been connected.
2 months later
Quoted from billsfanmd:anyplace left that sells the boulder shooter rod?
I have been searching for months. I don't think so
3 weeks later
I took the old signs off my old boulders. Left the rivet intact. Put Velcro strips on the back and the other side of the strip to the boulders. It held for years with no issues
Quoted from attack7777:Check the coil sleeve on the ball popper, make sure it isn't gummed up or doesn't slide properly.
Check the coil stop on the ball popper to make sure it isn't mushroomed.
Check the cup on the ball popper and make sure the roll pin that holds the popper on is still there and secure.
Agreed, probably not a heat thing - most likely some simple mechanical reason.
I had one years ago that was missing one of the little fins on the popper cup that contacts the ball. It would sometimes work, and sometimes spin into a position where it did what yours is doing. I had to replace the cup plastic piece.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shenanigander:I haven't got a hold of Draino but haven't lost hope yet. Anyone have a spare "missing plastic" that he makes for sale? Or maybe the file/scan so I can try to get one made?
I'd also be a buyer. I have the decal on there, but it just isn't the same.
1 week later
I recently found the "missing" mountain here
https://www.pinballshop.nl/playfield-parts/toys-and-figures/white-water-waterfall-mountain/
Received it today and it doesn’t come with any mounting bracket or similar, just the plastic.
The base yellowish color is decently fitting but the darker spots are a bit off (but still within acceptable looks) compared to my original? backboard mountains.
[quoted image]
It's quite close in color to my repro bigfoot cave though.
[quoted image]
Anyone have any good ideas on how to fasten it to the playfield? I'd rather avoid drilling holes in it for screws/rivets if it can be avoided as I'm afraid it might crack in the process. Any suggestions?</blockquote
Use a furniture touch up marker to match the color. I attached mine with two sided Velcro tape in the back and one screw into the left plastic underneath that section so it can rest on it. Hasn't budged.
Use a furniture touch up marker to match the color. I attached mine with two sided Velcro tape in the back and one screw into the left plastic underneath that section so it can rest on it. Hasn't budged.
Mine didn't have those dark spots on it, but here is a pic of it halfway painted with furniture pen to match and a pic of it installed
My pens were a set of 5 in varying colors that we actually had for furniture, so I just picked the best match.
Screenshot_20220128-134851 (resized).pngScreenshot_20220128-134855 (resized).png
Quoted from Davi:It's true for "missing plastic" too
(Why it's missing? Is the upper part not heavily crowded as default?)
I think you mean missing mountain. The missing plastic goes over the metal ball guide under the left ramp.
To me, the get looks naked without a missing mountain. It just feels like it should have been there.
Quoted from Shenanigander:Ok here's the question of the day.... to LED or not to LED the topper. Sounds like you could lose the waterfall effect with LED's. What has your experience been?
I hate LEDs in the topper. But then again white water is the only game I've had that I actually removed the LEDs from the GI and put in incandescents.
Quoted from Shenanigander:Another important question as I have an order deadline pending lol. Are you guys using any of the special reinforced Target switch brackets for the green targets up the middle? I'm pretty sure pinball life sells them and Marco.
I have the Mantis protectors coming. If I have those does that eliminate the need for reinforced Target brackets?
Maybe this... https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3
Or maybe this... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-6R
I have both on mine. Those targets take a beating and the reinforced brackets keep them from eventually bending backwards.
Quoted from Shenanigander:Did the anti sway Target kit from pinball life work okay? It says it is for data East Sega and Stern switches. It has the L shape bracket which is ideal![quoted image]
I can't remember where I got mine.... I remember it was a right fit to put them in with he protectors, but they just fit. Let me poke around in my old orders and see if I can find them.
1 week later
Quoted from Zartan:Gorilla glue didn’t work. It looks like snow on the trees.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Perfect for those who turn their game into a winter wonderland!
1 week later
Quoted from lrosent345:Well, hello everyone. Mark sent me a link to this topic. In the 6 years I've been making these ramps, no one has mentioned this before. I guess that shows the ingenuity of Pinheads to improvise. I really need to know about these things so I can fix them. These are problems I need to fix here before the ramps leave. Whitewater was made before I took over and so I have never personally fitted them. I have a Whitewater in my collection and will fit it today or tomorrow and get back to you. One thing I have learned over the years is that all pinball machines of the same title are different. I know that makes little sense but it is true. You would think they are all the same. This is true even if there are no changes during the run. In addition, changes can be made during the run, a machine can be modified after delivery, the Europian version may not be the same as the version released in the US, prototypes may be different than the production run, etc. So some fitting might be necessary on some ramps but I need to make them drop in whenever possible. Sometimes it's a newbie problem. I receive 2 or 3 complaints a year that the Cyclone comet ramp is too wide to fit in the game. Each time the problem is that the owner has seated the ramp incorrectly. I am committed to providing a thicker, stronger ramp that fits with the least amount of fitting issues. Making ramps is not rocket science but it isn't always easy. Mark, Jodie and I are always learning new tricks.
Awesome sauce.
1 week later
Quoted from dsuperbee:I used vids guide to lit 3d targets and built them.
That looks pretty freakin' cool. Guess I have some work to do...
Quoted from algrande:they do
Please let me in on the secret, I have wanted several items for a few years and have been unable to order. Have you successfully had items shipped to the US?
Quoted from dsuperbee:Its really not too bad. Ive made them in batches and it got easier as Ive made more.
Hardest part is getting the holes drilled in the right spot. I need a drill press.
If you're inclined to make another batch, I'd be a buyer
Quoted from G35R6:The items I bought involving artwork were definitely unlicensed reproductions and the quality can vary widely. 2 out of the 3 items I bought, I’m completely happy with.
First is the missing mountain. The color match is pretty bad. But, this along with the skull mountain mod are on their way to my sister-in-law who happens to be a pretty good artist.
We’ll see how they all match up. Plus, I’ve got to figure out a bracket for it.
I also ordered this RFM plastic that I couldn’t find by itself anywhere. The size and holes line up perfectly but the color is off just a bit but honestly, it’s so dark back in there, you’ll never see the difference.
I took a shot on a translite for an I500. The best way to describe it is that it seems like it’s missing the final “shiny” top layer. I’m going to take it to a sign shop and see if they can do anything to it.
So, I guess I have mixed results but based on what I was looking for and needed, I took a chance on them.[quoted image][quoted image]
Use a furniture touch up marker kit on that missing mountain. I got mine pretty close to my boulders that way
Quoted from G35R6:That’s a great idea. How did you end up mounting it onto the playfield?
I used Velcro on the back(top) and my ramp situation isn't normal, as I have the magnetic reed switches in so the entrance gate is gone on my game
I extended the screw in the plastic underneath to support the front end. It has held up great. Here's a pic of mine halfway done with the markers.
IMG_20210606_094635768 (resized).jpgIMG_20210606_101007255 (resized).jpgIMG_20210607_211033657 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Not being confrontational, or downplaying your creativity here, just my opinion... I feel like I can get the existing shot when I want to within a few shots. I usually do it just to clear the credit dot. I think the amount of work you're talking about to do basically nothing is not worth it. I'm all for improvements, but this seems like a lot of work to basically accomplish nothing.
2 weeks later
Quoted from daveddd14:Is the game really 77 inches tall with the topper? I thought it was taller and just wanted to double check the height and couldn't find anything in the thread.
TIA
Don't forget it will vary with how your leg levellers are set.
1 month later
Quoted from SFBP36:As far as I know there is no ball save feature on older roms. I upgraded to the LH-6 rom which does have this feature, but that rom is free play only.
This. The only time a ball will be saved is if nothing is hot to get points before a drain.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:To use a Gomez Addams quote from TAF...."NO NO NO!"
LOL. That's what went thru my mind too!
2 weeks later
Quoted from Melly:I'm happy with it and tbh don't really care if others like it as long as i like it I've been searching for a white water for a very long time and in my eyes it's amazing still thanks JToeps and Zartan
I hope someone can help me with a problem the machine has tho
I don't get any bigfoot errors and the optos seem to be okay but the game doesn't know the position of bigfoots head what can it be?
He's not disabled and always facing the player
Head spins when hot foot is active
When i go into test 3 he just doesn't find the position and shows
:up
:diverter
:player
:unknown
At random
There is a little control board under the playfield. (Directional board?)I forget which component goes bad, but a replacement board was available a year or so ago for not a lot of money, so I swapped it out and all good.
Quoted from Pinball-Rou:What could it be if the position is everywhere unknown and if the Bigfoot stops facing the player it shows all the position. After that it rotates again a full circle with unknown position.
Optos are in switch test ok and in opto test from bigfoot. Wiggles don't show any switch registering
Like I said... That board fixed me up. It's something on there. I don't know enough or care to learn repairs on it when a few bucks replaces it and it's good as new.
Quoted from yaksplat:The board under the playfield is the motor control board, but it has nothing to do with the location of bigfoot's head.
I wonder if the optos are fine, but nothing is breaking the beams from the head.
We are gonna have to agree to disagree. I believe it controls the spinning of his head. I think it's called a bi-directional control board. Either way, I had these symptoms, changed that board because I believe a capacitor was bad, and my game works now.
Quoted from Melly:Problem was found bigfoot was plugged in the wrong way
Can finaly play properly ☺️
Nice!!!
Quoted from mystman12:The one exception is if you have LEDs in the GI, you need GI OCD. The fade effects just don't look good without it.
I agree. I took all my LEDs out and put incandescents in. So much nicer in this game.
1 week later
Quoted from mbaumle:Sorry if this has been discussed multiple times already, but how can I adjust the plunge on this game? Currently, a full plunge sends the ball down the spine chiller ramp and straight down the middle nearly 100% of the time.
This really hasn't ever been a huge issue since it's usually me playing and I go for skill shots, but I have young kids in the family who just do full plunges all the time, and the game is literally unplayable for them.
That's how it's supposed to play. It's a "skill shot" to get it just over the hump.
2 weeks later
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I added a couple small bits of mylar on the low side, staggered on top of each other to build it up gradually to the gap, then a longer single piece running over the whole stretch of the gap and buildup mylar. it solved the problem.
Part of this issue is just a pretty dumb design... If that ramp had a flap on it, this wouldn't be an issue in any scenario. I thought about just adding a flap, but I really didnt feel like tearing my freshly restored game back down again...
If I have to tear it down in the future, i'll have to remove the mylar anyway, then I will add a flap to that ramp to bridge that gap.
I made a flap out of a piece of a playing card I believe the King of hearts I fastened it on with tape and have never had a problem since you can't see up there anyway.
1 month later
Yeah, I can confirm that they don't all have those bubbles, odd that those are in the same spot though.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pinkitten:I’ve been dealing with a mushy upper playfield flipper for months. Flipper worked, it just seemed a split second slow to respond and barely made either ramp shot. I cleaned the sleeve, then replaced the sleeve, then replaced the coil, still mushy. I checked the flipper opto and it looked like the metal opto interrupter for the upper flipper was barely clearing the opto, allowing the flipper to fire. I adjusted it, and it was more responsive, but not 100%. So today I replaced the flipper opto board and it plays like a different game! Very strong, crisp upper flipper reacts immediately and makes both ramps easily. I missed playing this game, and it’s back in my top 5 pins. What a game.
I had that same issue with a TZ. I replaced everything and then LTG advised me about the flipper opto board and BAM! Amazing.
1 month later
Quoted from lanfeust:Hi, I am a new owner of a WW, according to you, what leds fit the best to this pin... white, cold white, warm white, blue, clear, frosted...? others? thanks!
I like warm white. By the way, if you want to be in the club, you have to call it Wh20!
1 month later
I would rock that shooter. I'd prefer the boulder but since I can't find one that would look cool too.
3 weeks later
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I read so many posts about NOT using 12v LEDs on the topper, but I just absolutely hated that yellow glow from the topper. So, I ordered a new dome and took a gamble on some cool white LEDs from Amazon thinking, it's worth a shot. I'm actually very impressed with the results. The waterfall effects look just as good or even better than before. I'm happy. Looks better in person.
I hate LEDs in this topper. Too abrupt, and not a soft transition to make the flowing effect.
Quoted from firefighter:Looking for a White Yeti for a customer that is going the white look on White Water. PM if you have one, Thanks
I don't have one, but I would but the non white arms off of your customer somehow, mine are missing!
3 weeks later
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Does anyone have an active skull mountain mod (original brown rock color) they would like to sell or can anyone suggest a vendor? I see one on eBay I’m UK. Thx
Brown? I have only ever seen gray.
Quoted from yzfguy:Brown? I have only ever seen gray.
I'm sorry... I somehow thought we were talking about the no fear plastic
If anyone has a boulder shooter rod, or the original fur arms for bigfoot ( after switching to the winter version), I'm still looking.
Thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from DarlingLuci:Help needed! I have a recently restored wh2o that has an issue I can't solve. On boot the VUK triggers twice than at the start and end of every ball the vuk triggers twice and does the "whootywhoot" sound. I have replaced all optos, updated the rom, replaced opto boards with known good boards, tested all transistors, verified all diodes in that switch lane are correctly installed and good, removed all LEDs near the optos, ran game with glass off triggering every switch which does not duplicate the issue, and chased every wire looking for possible breaks/shorts. I have found nothing so far and have yet to resolve this issue. Anyone have any ideas on what I might be missing or should try next? Thanks.
I'd make sure the black plastic cup piece that the ball sits on at the base of the wire form isn't broken. If one of the fins on top that the ball rests on is broken off, the ball doesn't center on it and can mess up the opto beam consistency.
Quoted from DarlingLuci:Checked.That part is new and unbroken. Thanks
Hmm..
I'm not sure if this is related, because I can't remember which game this issue happened on for me, but it couldn't hurt to check...
Go to switch edge test and take the glass off. Start a ball. On one of my games, the ball would launch and kinda bounce and cause a second activation of the ball launch shooter lane switch before the ball is launched. This messed with things, as the game thought the ball was being launched on the second quick activation. Had to adjust the launch assembly to keep it from bouncing. I guess ya never know...
1 week later
I'm not near my game now, but I'm almost positive that first switch is only for a sound effect and there is another up higher somewhere, maybe all the way over by bigfoot.
Quoted from punkin:Joining your club once my machine gets delivered. Not sure if the white powder will stay or not, but we'll see.
Been looking for the right machine for a few years now, played one at my first pinball show and enjoyed it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Congrats! I sold one and couldn't wait to get another as I missed it. First thing I would do is ditch that white armor.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, I have been having a problem with Bigfoot. The motor seems to be getting slower and slower. Sometimes when I power on I get a credit dot and he does not work at all. At other times his head spins very slow and doesn't stop at the appropriate position.
My question - is this an issue with one of the components on the motor board? A capacitor perhaps? Or just an issue with the motor itself?
Thanks to anyone who has experienced this and knows the issue.
It's a component on the motor board. I forget which one but after trying to replace it and making a mess of it I replaced the entire board for not a large amount of money and it has been perfect since
Quoted from onemilemore:Hey thank you so much for the quick help! Didn't realize it was literally under the cave plastic. Switch is registering and the dot is clear. Back to the rapids - thanks again!
That dot will appear after a few games if nobody makes that shot. It's one of the shots that isn't made over and over, so it does happen.
2 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from mystman12:Hey all, I'm working on a WH2O on location. The VUK is totally borked. It can never get a ball out when there's more than one in the lock. This was initially an intermittent issue, so I replaced the coil sleeve, tightened everything up and replaced a missing screw. After this, the issue got even worse. Now I'm trying, to no avail, to bend the VUK back and forth to see if there's a sweet spot, but I just can't get it. The coil is correct, everything looks about the same as on my WH2O at home, I'm just not sure what else to try at this point.
Make sure the inside plunger that the ball sits on has all four tabs to make an even "bowl". If one fin is missing it pushes the ball up uneven
Quoted from mystman12:Hmm, they're a little worn at the tips, but none of them have broken off.
[quoted image]
Those look ok from that angle, mine had one chipped right off and had the same symptoms you are having
Looking at that pic, I would try to loosen the mount screw for the wireforms and push it back a bit to make sure the circular wire opening is centered over the cup. It may be a little too far towards the front of the game?
Quoted from mystman12:Woo, okay, finally got after continuing to make fine adjustments to the VUK angle. Had no idea this could be so sensitive!
Awesome!
1 week later
Quoted from Pinkitten:Agreed. I bought one from Pinball Center. The shape is fine, nearly identical. But the color is very different. But, you can repaint and try different shades of brown until you match. If you are in Canada you can order from them. USA is another story.
I had good luck with furniture/hardwood floor touch up markers.
Quoted from Kingjowjow:Thank you for the tip, in test mode no switch seems to activate a different one, this splashing sound when I flip is so bothersome.
Turn the game on and start a ball with the glass off. Then hit each switch with your finger and see which one makes the sound you are describing. Check the gap on that switch to see if it is too close and setting itself off during gameplay due to vibrations. If memory serves me it is on one of the center ramps
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from kstairmantis:Before pinball prices went crazy. That's funny! You do realize that the part on the Marco page is NOS circa 1990's. When Williams/Bally went kaput they dumped boxes of parts like those. That's why its so cheap. If I were to make that part now with the same metal they used then it would cost $ 11.00 to sell. Double that for stainless. The metal is 10x the price from the 90's.
That piece was on a game that sold for $ 3500.00 new retail. I'm guessing the new retail now is 4 times as much
You have to understand when Bally/Williams made parts like that they made thousands of each part. The economy of scale makes it cheap. Doing 50 Ball guide sets is a whole nother ball game.
These ball guide sets are available for a very short time. I will not remake them. Every ball guide set I make is available for a limited time. Most I make not for you the pinball community but for me. I'm doing a project and need some for myself. They are hideously expensive to make. I make extras for my pinball buddies. So if you think you will ever make a Whitewater in your lifetime you have a narrow window to get a ball guide set now. Once they are gone they are gone. I would not waste the money to remake them again. Remember I'm retiring shortly! I want to make a few games from scratch for myself. So hence the sudden influx of parts for a game. Enjoy the largess while you can. Trust me it will not be much longer!. Pay the scary price now or the cheap price on ebay in a few years.
Kerry - Mantis Amusements
I never got a request from you,but I'm officially denying you the opportunity to retire. Sorry, that's just the way it has to be.
3 weeks later
Quoted from MiniPinHead:I think it was determined that if you put 4 3/8 O.D. Mini Post rings (need to be cut) on the end of the VUK ramp that it'll kill the back spin you're experiencing.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52
Photo of this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/150#post-7649624
Yup,that worked perfectly on mine.
1 week later
Quoted from Whitewater:Such a great game
I think, strictly judging by your username, that you may be biased!
5 months later
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:New to the club! First timer so I am not familiar at all with this pin. I got a beautiful Chad Keller (no idea how long ago he did this) restored Wh20. It has some issues I am resolving. Resetting voltage issue. Big foot’s head does not operate correctly. I tires to spin but just doesn’t. This isn’t an important problem I am guessing. Because he does divert the ball properly. That is the most important function big foot does, am I correct in that? More curiously however. Take a look at this backbox light board? It does not look like any of the others I have seen in pictures and videos. Does anyone know why mine is different? I am wondering if they had an early version or did ChadKeller need a light board and used one from a different machine?
[quoted image]
Can't remember the name of it, but under the playfield is a small board that controls big foot. I replaced the whole board after a failed attempt at changing components, and it was not very expensive.
Quoted from Sheev_Palpatine:Ok, thanks. I am not looking forward to disassembling of this machine. 6 ramps!
I replaced all the ramps years ago, and I just took some pictures and took my time. Once you see how some of them interlock, it makes sense and isn't too bad.
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