(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Ericpinballfan
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#1350 4 years ago

I joined the club 8 years ago. I just didn't know there was a club back then. Looks like there a good representation of WH2O around Buffalo, NY.

1 month later
#1390 4 years ago

I've been running LH-6 since 2008.

#1392 4 years ago

Yeah, I completely misread your email, the current non home rom is LH5.

2 weeks later
#1426 4 years ago

Anyone know of a site to get the missing mountain from?

3 years later
#3622 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

So what are people’s thoughts on the skull mountain mod? Is it worth the price or should I just buy the grizzly bear mod and put in there?

I put the skull mountain in mine. Looks great and I think it fits right in.

#3662 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Is there any clear way to know if the game is a reimport? Some kind of markings or do they put an import stamp on the machine somewhere? Otherwise how would someone know if they were buy a machine that was reimported? Thks

I have a plaque on mine from japan. From what I heard, it went from the US, to Germany, to Japan, and then Canada. I bought it outside of Toronto and brought it back to the US.

#3665 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Wow that game racked up some serious frequent flyer miles.

Honestly, it would have been a hell of a lot easier if they just delivered it directly to my house, instead of doing a lap around the world.

2 weeks later
#3709 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I need the home rom anyone know who/where to get one cheers!

http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1500/white-water-home-rom-lh6.htm

or just do a search for whitewater LH-6

#3710 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Joined the club today!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats! It's a club that i don't see myself ever leaving.

1 month later
#3824 1 year ago

This would also work well. It's an LED rope from adafruit.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3867

3867-04 (resized).jpg
#3856 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

So this game is becoming a huge pain to get now.
Found one made a deal at asking price and asked for details to arrange pick up (4600). An hour later guy goes its sold - WTF
Found another one appeared to be a really good deal (4000). Made a deal called the shipper and then get a message this AM says No deal - what the heck
Have one other on the line appears to be really good shape (best one so far), local to me (which is nice) but also pricey and seller is fixed on price. Can't blame him really. He doesn't need the money, or the space and isn't desperate to sell etc so why let go for a deal. (close to 6k)
Just surprised at how this game has dried up on the sales floor (and how high its price has gotten)
Have to keep searching, searching ...

It's unreal how much they've gone up. My machine was 1800 in 07 and i thought it was a lot at the time. Beautiful condition too.

#3876 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Are you selling a white water?

looks like it's just a short boat ride away.

#3896 1 year ago

I like that.

2 weeks later
#3929 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Well I would still have to paint the front of the head where I have plenty of dings and scrapes. Good thought on the SW though, might be my best option unless I want to go full on cab restore

I just had this exact question about a whirlwind. The cab needs some work on the front of the head. I'll have to get some paint made to fix it up.

#3935 1 year ago

Put some nvram in there.

1 month later
#4057 1 year ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I certainly will.
I know from another thread that there is some guy that is really good with sound that is doing a completely new sound package for this game but he just can never seem to find the time required to complete it.
Maybe someday.

We're all hoping for that.

1 week later
#4093 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Is this a decent option for those trifurcon connectors?
ebay.com link » Ht 225d Full Cycle Ratcheting Crimping Tool For D Sub Open Barrel Connectors

I use something similar. Takes a little to get the hang of it with the ratcheting.

1 month later
#4163 1 year ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Where do you get that?

look at the bottom of the thread

#4167 1 year ago

With the announcement of the pinsound one, i'm going to hold off until the re-orchestration gets completed and then buy it all at once. But i'm in no hurry

#4168 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Just joined the club with a solid players machine. Looking forward to spiffing it up on a budget. Starting out with caninet paint touch ups.[quoted image][quoted image]

Love the coin slot

#4172 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

where is the info on the pinsound shakers? how is it powered and what triggers it? what's the price on it shipped to the US?
one of the benefits of the Pinshaker is it does not draw power from the game.

https://www.pinsound.org/motion-control/
https://www.pinsound.org/ready-to-shake/

#4175 1 year ago

Get some protectors from cliffy for the mountains.

1 week later
#4202 1 year ago

The manual shows it. I like it better with it off.

#4216 1 year ago

Threading the boulders is rough. I'm not very manly.

#4239 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Hey everyone just thought I would let you know starship fantasy has boulder sets in stock finally.

Ouch... $192

#4249 1 year ago

At that price i'll just go carve some rocks, drill some holes in them and call it a day.

#4267 1 year ago

If the hole is larger, you can use a golf tee. Very good for door hinges.

1 week later
#4316 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Removing the mylar glue afterwards? nightmarish.

Use naptha. Let it sit on there to soak into the glue and then it comes right off.

#4348 1 year ago

Usually you can't visually see anything wrong with a chip, but a crack is never good.

1 week later
#4358 1 year ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

Good,
I remember when I exploded that IC in my getaway.
my heart sunk

There's nothing like breaking your machine. Did i cause $5 in damage or $500...

For the most part, they did a good job to make sure that operator induced damage would be relatively cheap.

#4367 1 year ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

If those are regular LEDs take them out immediately. They can and will melt, if not catch on fire.

Isn't that almost a right of passage for a whitewater owner? I did the same thing 9 years ago when cointaker recommended a set of led's for the topper. I told them that the leds pretty much started on fire. They refunded me for the bulbs and updated their kit offering.

3 weeks later
#4408 11 months ago

Those don't even look like they were from the same molds

#4416 11 months ago
Quoted from etien:

Yes this is what I mean. Should be possible

You could even slip some small leds in front of the targets pointed up. It'd be a neat effect with the clear targets.

#4419 11 months ago
Quoted from Gnatty:

Translucent yellow pop bodies really added more lighting in that dark boulder garden

Hey, I like that! Now that I've gotten my feet wet going through a couple of other games top to bottom, I may do the same with my Whitewater. It could use some fixes and cleanup.

I like the ceiling modification too. I have to do that in my dad's basement for whirlwind.

1 week later
#4435 10 months ago

Which waterfall? Lots of ramp here.

1 week later
#4463 10 months ago
Quoted from Jenniebear:

Is it normal for the Big foot head to hit the log when spinning? His chin is half missing. I got a new head and replacement diverter shaft ( hands and log attaches to). The motor shaft does not look bent. The head is hitting an getting stuck. Any suggestions?

That's definitely not normal.

Does it behave normally otherwise? Does he look towards you like he should after blocking a ball? Looking in the manual, the chin should be a safe distance away.
Is it possible that the whole motor assembly is loose or tilted? Is the base bracket bent?

2 weeks later
#4474 10 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Hold the flipper for an instant update and it will show you the graphic of what you need

The Vacation Planner

#4476 10 months ago

wax up the whirlpool and the ball will spin around it a lot more.

1 week later
#4485 9 months ago

I've never seen that before. You'll have to post some pictures underneath the playfield when you get it.

3 weeks later
#4518 8 months ago

If you want to spend the extra money, get a mirco and then send it to kruzman for a clear job. It'll take a while but the end result will be beautiful.

#4526 8 months ago
Quoted from zene10:

I haven't installed the WH2O Mirco playfield yet. However, I did install a new Mirco Whirlwind playfield. I was happy with the clear coat and colors. It's held up well with about 500 plays so far.
Issues with Whirlwind playfield (I traded my original to be used as the template for a new Mirco field):
1. "NE" decal missing from an insert. This affected multiple people who purchased from the original run. The company was indifferent and I don't know if anybody received a replacement or partial refund due to this omission.
2. The shooter lane/trough kickout area. Something was off by a few mm. Stock WW Cliffy's did not fit properly. Cliff was kind enough to create a Mirco version of the kick-out area proector based on the template I sent him.
3. The dimples were off on multiple mechanisms (pops, flippers, lift ramp area, etc). This was both irritating and disappointing, since my field was supposed to be the template, I expected a plug and play repopulation.

1: I was told, "What am I supposed top do about it?"
2: Cliffy made a version that works on both now.
3: 95% of my dimples were off. It was a nightmare of redrilling every hole and refitting every mech. There was also a hole for a post missing next to the left cellar. Again, no response from Mirco. His post sale service is miserable.

#4534 8 months ago

That hasn't happened here in the 13 years that i've owned mine.

4 weeks later
#4605 7 months ago

i thought mine was expensive when i picked it up for $1900 in '08. yikes.

1 week later
#4623 7 months ago
Quoted from tac007:

Then I was leaning towards chrome (did my FH in chrome and I love it)
But my wife thinks we should do like a light blue powder coat.
Mine come with all blue armor and coin door and legs.
Iv since changed to all chrome.
Looks much nicer[quoted image][quoted image]

Does the topper have any effect with those leds in there?

#4646 7 months ago

Definitely moving in the right direction around the start button. That was a disaster.

#4672 7 months ago

Goop works well on materials like that.

#4697 6 months ago

Fill the hole just like you normally would with some toothpicks. Put a piece of tape over the side when you do it, so the glue fills the hole. You could use a thin CA glue and that will completely wick through and fill the hole. Then remove the tape, sand down the side if you need to and re-drill the hole. It'll be as good as new with no sign that anything was ever done.

2 months later
#4849 4 months ago
Quoted from CWiehler:

I just got VJ for the first time...no one in my family really gives a crap and I had to tell someone. Figured you guys would listen!

I just got one over the weekend too. It was the first time that my son say it happen. To which he responded, oh, that's easy to do, i've almost done it so many times. I said yeah, almost doesn't cut it. I've only gotten it a handful of times in 12 years.

#4851 4 months ago

Mine was at 234M

#4859 4 months ago

I'd like to see a home rom with the ability to turn off freeplay. I'm a big fan of tokens, but I really like LH6

2 weeks later
#4899 4 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Mine has it too. I've also got some ramp protectors elsewhere, and what I believe is a cliffy for the now way out drop and mantis protectors for the lite lock targets. I did not install them, but this is what they look like.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Man... I have to clean and flame polish my ramps. Those look great.

1 week later
#4928 4 months ago

it's the locking of ball 3 that triggers it. You just have to had hit wet willies, class 6 river and all of the boulders some time in the game.

1 week later
#4948 3 months ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

JP Pro/ Amber Shooter Rod and Art Blades, Shaker -Vs- WW/ Color DMD Mirror Blades, Topper and full LEDS?

I'd call that pretty close to even, based on the WH2O condition. I've only played about a dozen games on JP compared to hundreds on WH2O, but I'd consider JP to be one of the best games out of Stern in quite a while.

#4951 3 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

I just picked up a really rough one in similar playfield shape with NO topper for $3500. I had to put about $400 in it to get it going and playing good and add a repro topper. Crazy part is it plays better than my $8000 restored one I had several years back.

What were the differences that you noticed between the two?

#4956 3 months ago
Quoted from woody76:

it just plays smoother or something. The restored one had new everything, ramps, plated wireform, etc.. Maybe the repro ramps threw things off.

It could very well be the thicker ramps. I've noticed on other games that thicker ramps post problems. I had to make a bunch of changes on whirlwind repro ramps. The comet corkscrew repro ramp needed adjusting as well.

#4964 3 months ago
Quoted from AJB4:

Happy to get out on the river and join the White Water club. I have wanted this game for a while and it seems like they are somewhat are to find. Anyway, players condition game but might be a good candidate for a restoration job.
[quoted image]

Welcome aboard. Just tone down those LEDs a bit

#4985 3 months ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

So have to be sure I really want it first haha

You do.

1 week later
#5039 3 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm in the process of fixing a wh2o that I recently bought and when I assembled the ramps I noticed these two screws that seem to be wrong. When I roll a ball past them following either ramp side the ball hits the screw heads noticably.
It seems I have the wrong screws but what is the correct ones? The ramp holes are not conical but the screws are. On the underside there are two nuts with a jagged spacer.
I would say the worst screw head protrude about 2mm up.
I would love to find a way to attach the two ramps without any screws but still being able to take them apart (no glue). Any suggestions?
Worst case I have to get me a small file and make the holes conical so the heads sink down properly but if that was needed then shouldn't the ramp have that already from factory...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Counter sink those holes. You can buy a bit that matches the profile of the screws.

3 weeks later
#5077 76 days ago

Someone probably wired them together instead of fixing it right. Look for an extra wire under the playfield and take a look at the lamp matrix for the proper wire colors.

#5083 74 days ago
Quoted from Osvivalt:

Thanks, but I don't think this is the case. I noticed that two whole columns light up at the same time per every row. For example when yellow-brown row is activated, both red-green and red-blue lights light up instead of only one. Same happens with every row. A faulty (shorted?) transistor in the lamp board maybe? I'm not very familiar yet with electronics as this is my first game.

So it's almost like there are two columns wired together?

I like to test a playfield separate from the board, just so i can nail down a board issue from a playfield wiring or diode issue. J137 is the columns and J133 is the rows. If you send a voltage through the proper pair of wires in the connectors, a single lamp will light.
pasted_image (resized).png
If more than one lights up on any test, you have a playfield wiring issue or a diode issue. If everything works perfectly, you have a board issue.
pasted_image (resized).png

#5088 74 days ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Appreciate the help. Does anyone have a picture of the part attached in the trough? I can’t seem to find it in the manual.
Does the part go where the tiny holes are circled in the attached picture? [quoted image]

That's exactly where it goes. It's a one way gate.

This is from my whirlwind.

Screenshot_20200707-214625 (resized).jpg
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