I joined the club 8 years ago. I just didn't know there was a club back then. Looks like there a good representation of WH2O around Buffalo, NY.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:
Is there any clear way to know if the game is a reimport? Some kind of markings or do they put an import stamp on the machine somewhere? Otherwise how would someone know if they were buy a machine that was reimported? Thks
I have a plaque on mine from japan. From what I heard, it went from the US, to Germany, to Japan, and then Canada. I bought it outside of Toronto and brought it back to the US.
Quoted from GCS2000:
So this game is becoming a huge pain to get now.
Found one made a deal at asking price and asked for details to arrange pick up (4600). An hour later guy goes its sold - WTF
Found another one appeared to be a really good deal (4000). Made a deal called the shipper and then get a message this AM says No deal - what the heck
Have one other on the line appears to be really good shape (best one so far), local to me (which is nice) but also pricey and seller is fixed on price. Can't blame him really. He doesn't need the money, or the space and isn't desperate to sell etc so why let go for a deal. (close to 6k)
Just surprised at how this game has dried up on the sales floor (and how high its price has gotten)
Have to keep searching, searching ...
It's unreal how much they've gone up. My machine was 1800 in 07 and i thought it was a lot at the time. Beautiful condition too.
I just had this exact question about a whirlwind. The cab needs some work on the front of the head. I'll have to get some paint made to fix it up.
Quoted from Arcade:
I certainly will.
I know from another thread that there is some guy that is really good with sound that is doing a completely new sound package for this game but he just can never seem to find the time required to complete it.
We're all hoping for that.
With the announcement of the pinsound one, i'm going to hold off until the re-orchestration gets completed and then buy it all at once. But i'm in no hurry
Quoted from Lermods:
where is the info on the pinsound shakers? how is it powered and what triggers it? what's the price on it shipped to the US?
one of the benefits of the Pinshaker is it does not draw power from the game.
At that price i'll just go carve some rocks, drill some holes in them and call it a day.
Usually you can't visually see anything wrong with a chip, but a crack is never good.
Quoted from sataneatscheese:
If those are regular LEDs take them out immediately. They can and will melt, if not catch on fire.
Isn't that almost a right of passage for a whitewater owner? I did the same thing 9 years ago when cointaker recommended a set of led's for the topper. I told them that the leds pretty much started on fire. They refunded me for the bulbs and updated their kit offering.
Quoted from Gnatty:
Translucent yellow pop bodies really added more lighting in that dark boulder garden
Hey, I like that! Now that I've gotten my feet wet going through a couple of other games top to bottom, I may do the same with my Whitewater. It could use some fixes and cleanup.
I like the ceiling modification too. I have to do that in my dad's basement for whirlwind.
Quoted from Jenniebear:
Is it normal for the Big foot head to hit the log when spinning? His chin is half missing. I got a new head and replacement diverter shaft ( hands and log attaches to). The motor shaft does not look bent. The head is hitting an getting stuck. Any suggestions?
That's definitely not normal.
Does it behave normally otherwise? Does he look towards you like he should after blocking a ball? Looking in the manual, the chin should be a safe distance away.
Is it possible that the whole motor assembly is loose or tilted? Is the base bracket bent?
I've never seen that before. You'll have to post some pictures underneath the playfield when you get it.
If you want to spend the extra money, get a mirco and then send it to kruzman for a clear job. It'll take a while but the end result will be beautiful.
Quoted from zene10:
I haven't installed the WH2O Mirco playfield yet. However, I did install a new Mirco Whirlwind playfield. I was happy with the clear coat and colors. It's held up well with about 500 plays so far.
Issues with Whirlwind playfield (I traded my original to be used as the template for a new Mirco field):
1. "NE" decal missing from an insert. This affected multiple people who purchased from the original run. The company was indifferent and I don't know if anybody received a replacement or partial refund due to this omission.
2. The shooter lane/trough kickout area. Something was off by a few mm. Stock WW Cliffy's did not fit properly. Cliff was kind enough to create a Mirco version of the kick-out area proector based on the template I sent him.
3. The dimples were off on multiple mechanisms (pops, flippers, lift ramp area, etc). This was both irritating and disappointing, since my field was supposed to be the template, I expected a plug and play repopulation.
1: I was told, "What am I supposed top do about it?"
2: Cliffy made a version that works on both now.
3: 95% of my dimples were off. It was a nightmare of redrilling every hole and refitting every mech. There was also a hole for a post missing next to the left cellar. Again, no response from Mirco. His post sale service is miserable.
Does the topper have any effect with those leds in there?
Definitely moving in the right direction around the start button. That was a disaster.
Fill the hole just like you normally would with some toothpicks. Put a piece of tape over the side when you do it, so the glue fills the hole. You could use a thin CA glue and that will completely wick through and fill the hole. Then remove the tape, sand down the side if you need to and re-drill the hole. It'll be as good as new with no sign that anything was ever done.
Quoted from CWiehler:
I just got VJ for the first time...no one in my family really gives a crap and I had to tell someone. Figured you guys would listen!
I just got one over the weekend too. It was the first time that my son say it happen. To which he responded, oh, that's easy to do, i've almost done it so many times. I said yeah, almost doesn't cut it. I've only gotten it a handful of times in 12 years.
I'd like to see a home rom with the ability to turn off freeplay. I'm a big fan of tokens, but I really like LH6
Quoted from daveyvandy:
Mine has it too. I've also got some ramp protectors elsewhere, and what I believe is a cliffy for the now way out drop and mantis protectors for the lite lock targets. I did not install them, but this is what they look like.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Man... I have to clean and flame polish my ramps. Those look great.
it's the locking of ball 3 that triggers it. You just have to had hit wet willies, class 6 river and all of the boulders some time in the game.
I'd call that pretty close to even, based on the WH2O condition. I've only played about a dozen games on JP compared to hundreds on WH2O, but I'd consider JP to be one of the best games out of Stern in quite a while.
Quoted from woody76:
I just picked up a really rough one in similar playfield shape with NO topper for $3500. I had to put about $400 in it to get it going and playing good and add a repro topper. Crazy part is it plays better than my $8000 restored one I had several years back.
What were the differences that you noticed between the two?
Quoted from woody76:
it just plays smoother or something. The restored one had new everything, ramps, plated wireform, etc.. Maybe the repro ramps threw things off.
It could very well be the thicker ramps. I've noticed on other games that thicker ramps post problems. I had to make a bunch of changes on whirlwind repro ramps. The comet corkscrew repro ramp needed adjusting as well.
Welcome aboard. Just tone down those LEDs a bit
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:
I'm in the process of fixing a wh2o that I recently bought and when I assembled the ramps I noticed these two screws that seem to be wrong. When I roll a ball past them following either ramp side the ball hits the screw heads noticably.
It seems I have the wrong screws but what is the correct ones? The ramp holes are not conical but the screws are. On the underside there are two nuts with a jagged spacer.
I would say the worst screw head protrude about 2mm up.
I would love to find a way to attach the two ramps without any screws but still being able to take them apart (no glue). Any suggestions?
Worst case I have to get me a small file and make the holes conical so the heads sink down properly but if that was needed then shouldn't the ramp have that already from factory...
[quoted image][quoted image]
Counter sink those holes. You can buy a bit that matches the profile of the screws.
Someone probably wired them together instead of fixing it right. Look for an extra wire under the playfield and take a look at the lamp matrix for the proper wire colors.
Quoted from Osvivalt:
Thanks, but I don't think this is the case. I noticed that two whole columns light up at the same time per every row. For example when yellow-brown row is activated, both red-green and red-blue lights light up instead of only one. Same happens with every row. A faulty (shorted?) transistor in the lamp board maybe? I'm not very familiar yet with electronics as this is my first game.
So it's almost like there are two columns wired together?
I like to test a playfield separate from the board, just so i can nail down a board issue from a playfield wiring or diode issue. J137 is the columns and J133 is the rows. If you send a voltage through the proper pair of wires in the connectors, a single lamp will light.
If more than one lights up on any test, you have a playfield wiring issue or a diode issue. If everything works perfectly, you have a board issue.
Quoted from Johncare07:
Appreciate the help. Does anyone have a picture of the part attached in the trough? I can’t seem to find it in the manual.
Does the part go where the tiny holes are circled in the attached picture? [quoted image]
That's exactly where it goes. It's a one way gate.
This is from my whirlwind.
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