(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



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#55 6 years ago

Love mine.

#58 6 years ago
Quoted from Out-West:

Its worth really boils down to "what your willing to pay for it" Value is what it sells for.

Agreed. They can move around in price quite a bit. I wouldn;t go up near 4k personally, but that's just me. Plus I already have one

#62 6 years ago
Quoted from Vans:

These are the pictures he sent hard to tell from pics

To hard to tell as he's obviously taking pictures with a shoebox camera. Unless I'm seeing things, it's at least missing the dome on top.

#69 6 years ago
Quoted from Vans:

He’s reduced his price down to 3k and he said that’s his bottom dollar.

I wouldn't even start counting my monies with pics like that. Without better pics of insert areas, ramps, and close up PF it's impossible to tell.
But for all we know all it needs is some cleaning and a new dome...which would work out perfect.

#89 6 years ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Also have a WW.. it was the first pin I bought back in 2000 and still one of my favorites..

Water World? This is a wh20 thread!

2 weeks later
#171 6 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

and mine aswell
You wont shoot that bulb, never happened on mine, and i had some hard-pinners on it

This is actually an extremely common bulb to destroy, and it a design flaw in the game. I have blown many, and don't even put one in anymore. That's a nice place for a warm LED as it's easier to deal with the top popping off the LED then the bulb shattering.
Some people like to add an extra rubber to that area in Sky/Doro's pictures.

Actually...I wonder if a LED with no top might work?

#173 6 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

.
The fix to stop breaking the bulb is to double up the rubber rings.

I doubled up those rings and the bulb blew an hour later
What the hell man give me a break

#175 6 years ago
Quoted from tracelifter:

What did you do to piss off the pingods?

Every game is diff'rent...I've never had any problems with the lock targets breaking which a lot of people do...so that's a fine trade off for me

#181 6 years ago
Quoted from wiggy07:

From the factory does anyone know if it had one or two rubber sling shot rubbers around those posts on the top of the play field?

someone installed a metal guide around that area and removed the rubbers to protect the area. Hack job.

Factory it only had 1.

A new metal guide piece? Maybe the original one that's up there was just put on backwards or something? Just guessing.

#184 6 years ago
Quoted from Out-West:

If having real problems with it lower the socket down a bit with spacers

Good idea.

#187 6 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

My mystery magnet forces a drain the moment I get awarded an extra ball.

Not much mystery there...a classic screw job!

#200 6 years ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

I gave up and purchased a new Ramp.

Make sure to look at the manual on how to uninstall the Upper Playfield' It needs to come off to replace the whirlpool ramp.
That's actually a good thing as that will allow you do get in the hard to reach areas and do some cleaning that is probably needed.

#202 6 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Take a lot of photos also.

Ohhhh yeah; You can never have enough!

1 week later
#213 6 years ago

Are you guys talking aboot the "Upper to Lower" ramp?

Yeah all the pinballinc ramps are thicker and better so there are some fit issues. I didn;t get that ramp new but I believe I've heard people sand them a little to get it smooth.

#219 6 years ago
Quoted from fattrain:

I join this club tonight gentlemen

Now take all those horrible clown puking blue LEDs out of the back

And put some frosteds for the upper PF ramps so it looks more stock.

#221 6 years ago

My GI is bulbs, and I left the rafts that way also as sometimes yellow doesn't look right.
I did however leave in the blue LEDS under the "River" targets. I thin kit looks better than the blue behind them. Just my opinion. Looks like fattrain will be able to try a few things...that's the fun!

#223 6 years ago

Learn those bounceback bank shots...man those help with hazards.

#227 6 years ago
Quoted from tp:

i wanna join the club, cmon guys help me out.

Yep it's not the speediest club to join that's for sure. Unless you get real lucky you have to be patient.

#229 6 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

To top it all off, the multiball system is great! Easy to see your progression, and in each game, you're likely to unleash 2 or more multiball sequences. They're pretty common.

That's actually the bets part of the game, needing MB for Vacation Jackpot. You can pump a MB out in roughly 30 seconds of the game; but you gotta combine it with the 5x. Then you've gotta be careful and plan when you want the second one, to make VJ happen. If you pump out the second and waste it, the 3rd isn't pleasent to get.

#232 6 years ago
Quoted from Chambahz:

Why do you need the multiball?

Not on the 5x, it's just the best thing to do before getting your first MB.

To get Vacation Jackpot you have to get all the other stuff complete AND THEN lock 3 balls, that's what starts it. The Vacation Planner doesn't "hold over" the locked balls is what's going on. You get all the whirlpool awards on the first ball let's say, those hold over, you only have to do it once.
You get a MB going, those locks disappear form the Planner after that.

So MB are a very important part of Wh20....becasue it's so easy to start, it can screw you later as lighting the locks becomes more difficult.

#233 6 years ago
Quoted from MMuller:

I just traded my p.o.t.c for one. How is the color DMD for it worth it or not?

I think so, check it out for yourself!

http://vimeo.com/65527748

#240 6 years ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

Yes, you are right. I made a mistake.
By the way, where can I buy the beautiful blue LED seen well here?
Will it be sold in sets? Interested.

Do you mean blue LED for the whirpoool? If so you can just use 555 frosted LEDs. You have to take the subay ramp off the bottom to get to the whirlpool lights...it isn;t hard.

#244 6 years ago
Quoted from tp:

which rapids er i mean mods should i head to first?

Only protective ones if you need them. For the price of even 1 mod, certainly 2, you could upgrade to a spanking new ramp if they don;t look nice.

Also, pics or it didn't happen!

#248 6 years ago
Quoted from Mamushka:

The Bigfoot Spotlight mod keeps the light on when he is stopped and looking at you. Just hooking a light to the motor will not do that.

One of the only mods I'll consider for this machine; other than protective.

#252 6 years ago
Quoted from tp:

and for some reason i like the winter look what do others think?

I think it looks completely horrible in an awful disgrace of a way that's more embaressing than that even; no offense to anyone

As I've said before, it may be passable if someone tapered them out. Like white up top...slowly airbrushed back to brown on the bottom. All white is just too much. Wh20 is wacky enough looking you don;t need to shove more down your face.

IMO

1 week later
#263 6 years ago
Quoted from Cheeto:

I upgraded the speakers in my WH2O, it now vibrates at high volume.

What kind of speakers did you use; you're own brew or one of the sets? Interested in how you like them, heard some people say there isn;t a lot of bottom end in the machine so it doesn;t makea huge distance.

7 months later
#455 5 years ago
Quoted from pinhi:

I recently picked up some Mantis lock protectors. It does seem a tight fit. Any install tips before I start drilling new holes under the play field?

I bought some and tried to get them on but couldn't to be honest. Anyway i tried they never seemed snug to the back of the hole. I already had other things to do so i probably gave up a little easy, but it beat me till I get some spare time.
(That was probably 7 months ago )

7 months later
#603 4 years ago

I use Frosted white LEDs in a little under half the sockets for the back box.

Quoted from webdiddy:

You meant too say "what ever floats my raft"

I've never cared for the snow mountain look but hey, it works in Sweden

#607 4 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Those would be trees

And on the left it would be 1 leaf.

#611 4 years ago
Quoted from mot:

I can't wait to get rid of all the LEDs in my new White Water. Incandescent, baby!

I like incandecents in the yellow raft inserts for sure.

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Mine are incandescent now but I've done some experimenting with LEDs that look a little more yellow (which I like) but are still close to the incandescent.

Yellow is always the toughest color to match.

#615 4 years ago

I'll tell you the only thing i hate aboot Wh20, the goddamn insanity Falls switch. If you have to replace it, it's directly in the hardest spot to reach. It would probably be easy with a PF prop arm...which for some reason isn;t on the machine.

That upper PF lamp location is also horrible, but I've moved on and just accepted no light there.

#621 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

It's attached to the ramp, no? It's pretty a quick job to just remove that whole ramp.

Yeah...I'm a touch more sick of taking of the ramp than dealing with the switch itself...but it's close

3 weeks later
#640 4 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

I really need to fork out the dough on the Color DMD.

Really worth it. Cleans up the animations a ton

3 weeks later
#702 4 years ago

See, didn't take too long to find one

#734 4 years ago
Quoted from tp:

I have the color dmd in mine, is there suppose to be orange in it still? When my score shows in big numbers it's always orange and a couple other things are always orange as well.

Yep

Quoted from MAJRob:

The color DMD is well worth it. It is amazing the graphics and things you miss when you are living in all orange.

For sure.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wh20-color-dmd-redux-warning-credit-dot

#737 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I'm fearing tonight when I get home and remove that mountain, I'll see the switch is cracked off the ramp some how. Ugh. Hope this isn't the case.

That's a flaky switch for sure. It sits right under the mountain(t)s and can be badgered pretty easily. Often it happens from putting the Mountain(t)s back on, which can push the contacts down/together making a poor connection.

I wouldn't be too worried aboot it. Besides, not often you get a WH20 and not replace 1 ramp.

#739 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks for the vote of confidence. It seemed attached well, just flaky.

It's the 2nd most problematic switch in the game for me. The first being the goddamn insanity falls switch. It will probably never give you any issues, but when it does, it's really hard to get to it. PF down, or up, it's juuuuust out of reach.

#748 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

AM thinking about that too. I need to get a junk ramp to practice on first, but it doesn't look difficult at all.

Naw you don't need any practice...it really isn't tough at all. You'll see the ramp change and you'll know when to stop

#757 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Did they install easily? As in, did they fit well? Any riveting to do?

You can see the flaps are already installed along with decals. Ones I replaced fit just fine and will last a lot longer.

http://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-4-Ramp-Set

1 week later
#852 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I am awarded hazard shots for hitting the 're-light kickback' shots, is this normal?

Finally, every time I go into lost mine, I already have been awarded the 'flashlight'...

Yes, & it's a very important feature to be aware of; unless you like hitting boomerang bend.

Pretty sure that's default setting. you can change it to no awards to start.

#858 4 years ago
Quoted from PjM:

I am 95% done with my restoration but I want to "trick" this thing out. I want to make this look incredible. I need your "wish I did" but did not.

I wish i didn't "trick it out."

#878 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballdork:

Has anyone tried modifying the mountains to have snow just on the peaks....

Not that I've seen. Heard a couple people saying they were going to try it but never came back

#894 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Nice write up.
Any issues of note to really watch out for with disassembly/reassembly?

It's not too bad really...just gets cramped by the 2 ramps on the upper PF. Where all that meets was always the place that gave me issues. Nothing bad just annoying.

#896 4 years ago

It's always the little things. I had a PITA short after I shopped mine....turns out wire snuck into the screw putting back on the upper PF. Sucks having to take everything off again after you just put it back together

WH20Short.JPG
#898 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

How long did it take you to find that!??

A long time What would happen is it would eventually blow a fuse, knocking out the chase lights. This is a classic "these 2 things aren't related but obviously are" situation.

#925 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

I am so pissed I installed new green targets for the ball lock and mine are already cracking after two weeks. Anyone have a solution to this problem. argh!!!

Yes as jam said above make sure the correct coils are installed...they should not be the same.

#928 4 years ago

15411 for left, 11629 right.

FL1-15411 Orange - Used for long playfield shots
FL1-11629 Blue - Used for long shots and high ramps

#933 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Both of my flipper coils say FL- 15411 very powerful coils.

Exactly...you need to change out the right.

#935 4 years ago
Quoted from judremy:

The right one has trouble making the Spine Chiller ramp at times. Advice?

I would just make sure that coil is freshened up. check the sleeve and make sure the plunger is moving through nice and smoothly.

#938 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

But from a cradled ball on the right flipper, you shouldn't have much trouble making up the Spine Chiller as long as you aim the shot correctly. If your shots are aimed well and you're still barely making up that ramp you might look into rebuilding that flipper.
Now, from a cradled ball on the left (orange) flipper (this is the weaker flipper) it is very very hard to

Yeah there should be no issue at all with this shot at all...even on a routed beater

#942 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I've only been to Wet Willy's a few times, but haven't be able to reach class 6.

You running the latest home roms?

#944 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Yeah, I believe rev 6.
It does have hold bonus which keeps class level I believe. If I don't get a hold bonus, the levels start over from ball to ball.

I think the home rom you only have to reach level 6 once in the game...and then you're always qualified for Vacation. I believe the original Roms you had to get level 6 on the same ball. I could just be making all that up though.

#946 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

In looking at the ruleset, says that "you must reach class 6 at some point during the game".
And I think that ruleset was written based upon early revisions.

Ah ok cool. So maybe the Home Rom switched the hold bonus to hold the River award. Shiz I don't remember anymore. <-- yes that seems to be it. I learned that by searching this thread...what a concept!

#948 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Curious though, what's the point of holding the river award to the next ball? If you get that award once, it's good for vacation jackpot.
Maybe just for points?

Well it holds your progress...so if you're at River 4 & Hold, you're that much closer to Class 6

#955 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

How do you consistently hit the secret passage shot on this game? Seems like an impossible shot to me..

You don't...unless you've really got it down. I tried for awhile to shoot it with the left flipper using a backhand after getting it moving from a post past...never could get it down though.

#958 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

ok....need help from fellow WH2O owners.

Hmmm...how aboot is there a switch AFTER that? Just spitballing here, but maybe the ramp entrance switch makes the noise, but a switch after that awards it? Like if you hit the ball half way up the ramp & then it came back down, it would make the entrance sound, but not score the points?
Just a guess.

#965 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

How can I test the opt to see if it's bad or not?

Go into switch test, put your finger or anything betwixed the optos to see if it registers. If it doesn't, you got a bad receiver or transmitter.

#976 4 years ago
Quoted from mot:

People seriously like LEDs in this game? I live in incandescent heaven. You can't even see anything in the game pictured above!

Well LEDs not east to take pictures of, but I've never been a fan of painting the whole thing blue with LEDs. Most inserts work well with LEDs IMO...other than the rafting inserts for some reason.

#993 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

What are you guys using?

REDs...the original color. I try to keep as much stock as possible. Using white seems like ther's no point to that.
The only thing I have diff'rent on mine is using blue for the river letters.

#997 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I agree that a lot of people go overboard with the blue led's..

GI is the main culprit there no doubt.

#1000 4 years ago
Quoted from mot:

All blue LED GI in White Water made me want to throw up.

Ghastly.

1 month later
#1033 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

When the ball is in the shooter land does your ball search go off?

Don't remember that...and that's usually beer time or heading to the fridge so I *think* I would have encountered that.

#1037 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So do you think maybe his shooter lane switch isn't registering?

That's what I was thinking.

#1042 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So it passed the finger test, but not the ball test?

#1046 4 years ago
Quoted from calvin12:

that's an op hack plate, done well, a bit excessive but functional.

In the op world...that dude is like the Michelangelo of hacks. Probably involved hammers, chisels, plumb bobs...impressive.

#1053 4 years ago
Quoted from Endprodukt:

Good god that looks so much better. I hate it when White Waters get drowned in blue.

Uff agreed...he did a noble thing saving it from the clown puking.

Quoted from urbanledge:

How could anybody think that those leds look good?
Sickening is what it is.
Hood save

lots of people in this thread

3 months later
#1190 4 years ago
Quoted from bballfan:

Check the microswitch 57 that is located on the right upper playfield ramp by removing the uppermost boulder.

Look for both sides of the equation. One switch tells the game the ball is in the Whirpool ramp, so it makes noises and shows the whirpool animation, then the opto at the bottom of the whirpool that shows it's made it down, and awards something. It can be a bit confusing becasue if the whirpool entry switch isn;t working, the game will still award a boulder...it just has to get all the way down and then realize it's there. Just run a switch test and make sure they're working.
Before you start spending all your monies on animal dolls to glue to the game, get the Color DMD

#1210 4 years ago
Quoted from tonedef131:

I got my Whitewater running last night and the only problem I seem to be having is the lower hotfoot switch isn't working. Everything seems okay and the rest of the switches in the column & row are working. Does anyone have a photo of how theirs are wired? It looks like a PO may have done some hack wiring so I want to make sure it's hooked up right before I go changing diodes and switches.

Well it should be set up just like the other hotfoot switch no? You make sure to check the switch isn't always closed thus making it not work?

1 week later
#1242 4 years ago
Quoted from DevilsTuner:

We need a 2.0 like BOP got. Imgaine this game with updated graphics and some new rules added!

No thanks.

#1277 4 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Officially a member
What is the best LED approach?

Regular Bulbs for GI, leds for inserts; other than standard bulbs in the rafts...couldn;t ever a satisfying yellow with LEDs.
I don;t think I've heard anything good aboot LEDs in the topper, so stay away from that.

#1279 4 years ago

Personally, I don't think Wh20 is dark enough to warrant adding lights, and that's playing in a dark room (unless you have poor eye site).
As for inserts I just color matched everything and was happy with it. Frosted Domes either Comet/CT would do, no need for non flicker/no ghost etc. Just couldn't them up and order. Again...you might want to try a couple diff'rent colors for the yellow rafts...just seemed off to me.
You can also get some 555s for the whirpool so you won't have to worry aboot it again. Real owner & lovers of the game like red. These new punks like blue for some reason but it looks like garbage

3 weeks later
#1312 4 years ago
Quoted from parabol420:

the entire game will restart.

Unplug/replug in your solenoid molex on the far right side of the driver board. If they are lose or not making contact that could fix it right away.
Then head to the above link if that doesn't work

2 weeks later
#1327 4 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Has anyone done the Pinball Pro Speaker Upgrade? If so, is it worthwhile?

Might want to do some searching around, but I have READ (no first hand) that with the low quality of the audio clips and lack of low end it isn't that great of an upgrade.

2 months later
#1437 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

2) When I start Multiball, it makes sense to me that the Insanity Falls light should be lit, but it isn't.

Well the Jackpot already has it's own light on the upper playfield, so it is lit in multiball
I bleiev the whirpool itself is only lit during that mode

3 weeks later
#1448 3 years ago

I got one of them bears laying around I need to get rid of

2 weeks later
#1461 3 years ago

I don;t know & I am not a professional. But personally when I think audio problems I think caps on the audio board.

1 week later
#1469 3 years ago

Are you talking aboot using a Fliptonic opto board there?

#1473 3 years ago

Huh...I'll have to look at some pics of mine...didn't remember a conical spring in there...but haven't been under there in awhile.

#1476 3 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Same here. As much use as that flipper gets, I would try to figure out a way to remove that conical spring. They chew through links with a lot of use.

I can't imagine there isn't enough room down there for a standard flipper like the rest of the game uses....that's loco!

1 month later
#1542 3 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Looking for help with some GI issues.

You need to find out if the board is giving power, or if it's a short after the board.

Do this, take out J121 or whatever the Gi string is, and plug it in to J120. Those 2 are connected so it's all the same power source, one is for the GI, and the other is for the backbox I think. So, if you plug in the GI to the other socket, do the lights work? If so, you problem is power on the boards to the pins, if it still doesn't work, we know the problem is after the board.

#1546 3 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Ok so I swapped J120 with J121. No change. So we know the problem is after the boards. What would you test for next?

Check this out..you can do it...and shorts suck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-fix-a-gi-short

#1548 3 years ago

The "tit" is the part that the wire is soldered to as seen in the pic below. You can bend them easy so make sure it's not bend and touching the lamp itself.

You've really got to look close...make sure all sockets aren't touching anything metal...maybe when you lower the playfield.

Wait, you checked the fuses first right? Always check the fuses first...with your meter.
http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity-with-a-digital-multimeter.html

badlampsocket1_(resized).jpg

#1550 3 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Are there specific fuses for the GI?

You actually want to look in the backbox as many times the list is placed there. If not, get out the old manual and head to 1-37 which is the fuse list. It lists there that White/Orange is fuse 109, a slow blow 5A.
As you can see, even if you've been fixing them for awHile you can forget the correct steps. I always wanted to get "check the fuses" tattooed on my hand. Easyiest things first

#1552 3 years ago

No problemo. The REAL thing we both learned, it to check the easy stuff first.

In honor of your fix I'm going to play whitewater now!

#1555 3 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

TheLaw - maybe you can help solve this one too?

Are you sure there are only 3 balls in the machine? Weird things like this will happen with too many balls.

Other than that I would try tweaking the switch in the shooter lane. Just bend it around a little to get it sticking up more to make sure it's making contact. give that a try first

#1558 3 years ago

Jesus I know I've had this issue in the past. All I remember is rechecking all the connections to the trough switches, & shooter lane switch. That's all I remember. So if that doesn't work maybe someone else can chime in?

2 weeks later
#1611 3 years ago

You have to go through the bottom.

Don't screw around with LEDs on the topper

Bulb # 194

#1615 3 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

I wasn't going to but I was going to buy a few bulbs in case they go out. I will watch the TNT and find out what bulb it is.

Sorry I edited my post after, they are 194 bulbs.

#1619 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Go from the bottom. It's held on by two screws.

Do you have to take the subway off first though? Been so long.

1 week later
#1655 3 years ago

Great Lakes Modular makes fantastic stuff and have always been a great company to buy from .

#1658 3 years ago
Quoted from nsmith:

Just bought a whitewater about 2 weeks ago,

all outside metal parts being painted metallic blue metal flake color.

Welcome to the club!

Well that's shame but at least it will play the same

#1665 3 years ago

Nice! Now get out that torch and shine up them ramps

#1678 3 years ago

Make sure to check all the wires! Check out this short I had just from a little screwing in

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required?tu=thelaw#post-2256757

Another tricky one is a bend piece of metal that can contact the side rails AFTER you lower the game...sneaky.

#1680 3 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Sounds like he and I had the exact same issue!

Wow...what are the chances? Well I guess better than we thought a minute ago

#1724 3 years ago
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:

So this is just a rare occurrence and is on all machines with no setting needed? I love that they put something so wacky like this in the game.

Yes with H-6 ROMs

#1736 3 years ago

Please post when you have an installed pic.

#1745 3 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Turns out I had the same issue as Thelaw & Elicash amazing

Man that is pretty crazy. Such an annoying hidden problem. Check another one off the list!

#1748 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Damn, the screw holes are broken off the Lost Mine mountains. That's the one I'm hoping to replace. Thank you very much for taking the pictures, but I'm going to past on it. I'm sure someone here could use it though.

If you want to get a touch more in depth, you can do this which was easy and kind of fun

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fix-broken-plastics-yourself

Quoted from thewool:

I asked the guy when I bought it if these were standard and he said yes, but it was also set to 5 balls.

Ha...well that is interesting since you're over there. Possibly standard in Europe, but not 'Merica.

#1773 3 years ago

.

wwr_(resized).jpg

#1817 3 years ago
Quoted from Pablito:

Ok all this talk about lightning flippers intrigued me. I went to my WH2O and checked and sure enough I have them. What do these do? Are they shorter than standard? My WH2O regularly kicks my ass. Why is the game harder with lightning flippers?

They were made for a French Distributer to speed up game times and turn out more profit. This swirled into an ageless discussion of whether games were designed with lightening flippers. FT was the first game with them, and it WAS NOT designed for them...they were thrown on after the fact.

3 weeks later
#1870 3 years ago

Original Red in Whirlpool for sure

1 week later
#1900 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Only issue was ...

Lot more issues than that...but for $1400 not a complaint will be heard; Welcome!

#1905 3 years ago

The home ROMs add a ball saver for sure. I believe it also correctly uses the Hold Bonus to carry your River Class over....ha I've talked aboot the ROMs so much I confuse myself though. Just type ROMs in the search thread and see what we get

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required?tq=ROM&tu

2 weeks later
#1952 3 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

I really like the way that it plays so I'm debating restoring the cabinet.

My 2 ctns
I would vote no. You don't play the cab, and you wont even see it betwixed your 21 games....don;t worry aboot it

1 month later
#1994 3 years ago

Welcome back Cobra! Now take those hideous blow (sic) lights out of there

EDIT: I meant blue obviously, but I'll let it stand as those lights do in fact blow

#2002 3 years ago

Uff blue switchers are the frikkin worst...those damn people!

I feel a long story aboot how the whirlpool should be blue because water is blue coming on...

#2004 3 years ago

At least the AFM doesn't look like a steaming pile of shit.

EDIT: er...freezing pile of shit?

#2022 3 years ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

LOL, lots of negative reaction to my icy cold White Water. No prob at all.

You know how we do in this club...just having some fun

Now if you'll excuse me I have to get some eye surgery

1 month later
#2063 3 years ago

Does it have a restart time? I thought it just had last chance for jackpots if you don;t get any?
Sorry I've never missed jackpot so I don;t know

#2065 3 years ago

Agreed no matter where the ball is 20 is a lot.

1 week later
#2150 3 years ago

What type of PF is it?
Topper dome doesn;t add anything.

4 months later
#2313 2 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

...and my best game is around 200M.

Vacation Jackpot it a must. You'll see getting there the scores are very similar...starting around 1.4ish

Enjoy!

#2315 2 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

I've come to learn the most important thing is getting the 5x jackpots during multiball.

5x jackpots are always part of the game plan, but it would be rare to hit that many of them to get you up over a billion. Pretty tough work to get more than 2 MBs

#2317 2 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

I figured getting the R-I-V-E-R letters lit by going through the inlanes would be important, so I end up going through "No Way Out" a lot to get to the upper playfield.
I find a lot of drains happening on the right outlane (usually because of the boulder garden)

The right lane ALWAYS is the #1 place for trouble.
It's best NOT to worry aboot the River Letters. If you have a big game I find, this is with the home ROMS mind you, you run into spelling them at some point. Remember the...uff memory is horrible, the right ramps gives awards and at 6 (?) I think it "holds bonus," which holds your river level to the next ball so it's easier to complete.
Trick to the game is setting up the MB #2 with completion for Vacation Jackpot.

#2319 2 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

Using No Way Out seems like a good way to get a premature MB as wear out the VUK!

You're NOT going to wear out that VUK; it's going to be firing 50+ times a game for the rest of it's life.
The best way to get up there is the lock shot. You'll have to learn how not to hit the lock targets. I can assure you as you get better you will be shocked if you do hit one when not your intent. You'll be able to put it in there from both flipper easily.

#2321 2 years ago

No problem...make sure to search in this thread for things as tons of info in here. And folks like jam_burglar know pretty much everything aboot this machine.

#2323 2 years ago

As Far as I know it should come to the left flipper....although sometimes it can veer (sp?) over to the right on a super hard shot. I would make sure the metal guides of the left orbit and up obstructed. Someimtes you can have a bent piece of a washer someone put on that can be sticking out...but I don;t think there's a way to "fine tune" that area....i'll have to look at some pics when i get home.

#2325 2 years ago

Or....don't?

#2352 2 years ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

Anyone liking this design?
I have to say I think it turned out pretty sweet!
http://www.redbubble.com/people/tonygraf/works/24727501-white-water?asc=u&ref=recent-owner

Just for the record I bought the original shirt from webdiddy probably a year ago and love it. Quality shirt that stays nice and soft after a year of washing.

http://www.redbubble.com/people/tonygraf/works/20913882-welcome-to-wet-willie-s?c=408989-pinball&p=t-shirt&ref=work_collections_grid&style=mens

3 weeks later
#2378 2 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

What is adjustment A2 08? Hot foot percentage??

Is that how many time you have to complete the hot foot targets to start bigfoot hot Foot?

#2380 2 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

No, that is A2. 09 Hot Foot Count. Hot Foot percentage does not make sense, I cant understand what type of percentage could be related to Hot Foot...??

Quick search online pulled up this guess?

"Tom, that is the same w/ my HF count...never adjusted the
percentage...must be length of time BG's head turns around during
hotfoot."

#2382 2 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Akward defining time as a percentage...

Yeah haven't tried it myself but that's what I found on it.

#2387 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

After wanting to join for a while I'm finally in the club!
What would be the best mods to get for this pin? I hear the boulder protectors are good and I will add a color DMD.
Others?

Color DMD is the best thing you can do.

EDIT: Just get the functional stuff...stay away form the glued on items

3 weeks later
#2440 2 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

I am restoring a WH20 and I am looking at the OCD boards, specifically the GI one.
Is it worth it? or maybe the OCD LED board?

I use LEDs for (95%) inserts and incandescent for GI and everything looks awesome....I don't see the need to add monies with a board like that.

#2444 2 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Until you've seen in it action it is hard to justify an LED OCD board. Once you've seen it, you will never go back.

Short answer is until they make warm LEDs that actually have the same color temp as bulbs, I'm not interested.

Long answer is diff'rent strokes. I have machines with LED GI & Inserts and every way between. I'm glad you like them and I respect the product. Having at least 6 games that would take at least $200 a piece to start, fuck going back, I'm never going forward.

The only time I've thought of it is with Capcom...but still have 2 separate boards too pricey, not interested.

#2450 2 years ago

I have never liked the blue and don't understand it personally. Whirlpool lights are red, and they should stay red. Missing mountain(t) never been to my taste either but no big deal.

#2460 2 years ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Does anyone have an opinion as to which Colordmd option looks best on white water, LED vs. LCD? I'm leaning toward LCD for the option to use the upscaling. Has anyone tried both?

Don't think LED is available for awhile so that may not matter. Doubt there's juch if a difference...I have the first run lcd with no up scaling and it still looks 100 times better than orange

#2462 2 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Don't they all have the same modes once the software is updated?

Umm....hmmm I didn't know you could update the software? That's back when they came shipped with the software on it.
I'll have to look though, i thoguht it was diff'rent than later ones but i honestly haven't looked since I put it in years ago. Is it possible i just didn;t know how to use it then and never revisited it?

#2479 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Huh, I could have sworn I've seen them before.

I think you're right...I took a peak at it a it has the 4 buttons and USB just like a normal one...I'll give it a try this weekend when I get time

2 weeks later
-1
#2495 2 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Is there a colorDMD and is it worth it?

Quoted from Fifty:

There is a colour DMD, but I've heard that it's not as spectacular as switching to colour on other machines.

Color DMD is awesome...much more impressive than a $5 Bear with a fish in it's mouth

#2498 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

At $400 CAD plus shipping, it had better be!

Congrats that's cheap...it's $400 US here

To me it's one of the best color DMDs.

#2505 2 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Does anyone know the part numbers for the metal plates behind the light lock targets on either side of the No Way Out ramp?

If I'm understanding you correctly there are none OEM....this is why the targets and the ramps get broken behind them frequently. The Mantis protectors are available here

https://mantispinball.com/product/whitewater-protector-set/

1 month later
#2553 2 years ago

Agree exactly with Mbaumle.

3 weeks later
#2578 2 years ago
Quoted from rdbronko73:

Looking for .. winter theme paint jobs.

BOOOO!!!!!

1 week later
#2585 2 years ago
Quoted from toasterman04:

Playing one amazing specimen!!!!

Looks Awe....welll....like...

VB (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#2597 2 years ago
Quoted from Wamprat:

I'm back in the rapids again, picked this one up today.

Congrats!!!

Now take all that awful blue shit out of it

1 month later
#2615 2 years ago

Lightening flippers of course.

2 weeks later
#2639 2 years ago

If I had a nickel for every time I've taken off that subway!

1 week later
#2648 2 years ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

And i Aldo need help finding this post?
It supports the plastic ramp.
Mine is Broken.

Uff that might be the unobtainium post?

#2652 2 years ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

Hmm
But it looks like the one at Marcos
I think i order it from marcos and see if its the right.

Yep as long as you have the hex post to go on top of it still.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-with-wh2o-right-inlaneoutlane-post-1#post-158859

Good luck!

4 weeks later
-1
#2669 2 years ago

Those aren't blue LEds in the whirlpool are they?

#2677 2 years ago

I love a great Red/Blue debate! But you can't really argue taste with people that order kits anyway.

#2679 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Why not just stick a blue bulb in the whirlpool sign then?

My god you are a monster sir!

Why not use teal? closer to the color of the water on the side and translite than blue?
Make sure to use a mix of white and blue for the choppy peaks in the water.
Big foot hootfoot targets should be a mix of yellow & red to simulate flames.

My got people where will it end?!?

#2683 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

In all seriousness, is there an on-the-record reason why Nordman chose red? I'd honestly like to know, because I feel like had he chose a blue sign cover and blue whirlpool lights, no one would probably care.

It's red, NOT blue, because red is the standard pinball light/insert color indicating a jackpot. And as we all know whirlpool jackpot is a big part of the game.

So suck on that

#2685 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

At least it isn't as heretic as painting the boulders white and making it a snow theme, right?? I mean, who the hell wants to go rafting in the winter! Hypothermia: The Game.

Oh god no...that's of course rock bottom (other than white powder coating but, let's just act like that isn't a thing).

#2694 2 years ago

The age old question

Quoted from calvin12:

ring was added in production to eliminate fast drains to the right outlane. I had mine out for a while and it game no pop action at all, but I did not have a drain issue either. I put the ring in and not I have great action in the pops. I left it in. The switch below the pops will still get hit but its rare. This was accounted for in the software and you will find not hitting that switch does not set off a credit dot either.

#2712 2 years ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

And my BLUE whirlpool lights look great.

But your blue inlane lights look like shit

#2717 2 years ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Lmao, I love how cavalier you are with your criticisms.

ha it's just an opinion. We're in a club here...if you can't talk some shit to your fellow club members what's the point I say!

If people actually get upset at someone else for which bulb they put in a socket or pissed because they get some shit for it, that person is too tightly wound.

#2726 2 years ago
Quoted from Deaconblooze:

I'm thinking I'll go back to full incandescent for the GI to get the original dimming effects, and to get rid of any of the color blasting that I've grown to dislike.

GI works great that way. Most inserts for me are LED other than the rafts which never looked right to me.

3 weeks later
#2753 1 year ago

Yes you have to hit both the hotfoot targets...like 4-5 -6 times, forget default settings. Anyway, game classically goes for long stretches without it which activates the error dot.
As soon as you complete them it will tell you have many to go.

Welcome to the club!

2 months later
#2853 1 year ago
Quoted from Stormtrooper:

Is this how it is intended to work ...

No.

Welcome!

#2855 1 year ago
Quoted from Stormtrooper:

Thx, I was hoping someone could confirm that before I get into checking out that opto. It looks buried deep under the upper playfield and difficult to get to.

If you just got the game, and are familiar with how to fix them somewhat, you'll probably be getting under there anyway at some point. Taking the upper playfield off isn't the worst job...easier that it looks that's for sure.

EDIT: Wait, is it an opto or just a switch in the upper left corner under mountains? Let us paruse some shopout photos for help
https://pinside.com/pinball/archive/white-water/gallery/shopout
Easier with the manual but it loosk like switch on pages 117-118?

EDIT: Opto ramp entry only. So when it passes the opto it probably makes a sound, so you just need to know if it's making that sound/animation with both flippers. That will tell you if it's the entry opto or the switch in the back.
manual page 2-42&43

3 weeks later
1 week later
#2914 1 year ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I’ve never dealt with the globes in topper.
Are they a 12 v wedge or bayonet?
Does the factory lighting give the best effect?
Thanks.

194 wedges. They make LEDs but I haven't met too many people that prefer them over regulars.

#2916 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

LEDs in the topper are horrendous.

Yeah they don't interact with the foil in the same way at all....it's just a totally diff'ren thing.

2 weeks later
#2938 1 year ago

P1070117 (resized).JPG

4 weeks later
#2952 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I disconnected all the connectors to the boards. I just need screen shots of where the connectors go.

"All" the boards?

aot.jpg

-2
#2957 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Question for everyone is what bulbs is everyone using for the whirlpool? I know in some other posts people were using blue or red. What number are the original bulbs and who sells them couldnt find those bulbs in the manual? Thx

Red are original and should be used, because Blue is dumb . They should be 555s with red condoms on...of course you can just use red LEDs.

Quoted from Elicash:

When I’m in the 2 ball whirlpool multi all I know you cannot lock balls in the no way out shot.
But can you still advance towards the light lock by hitting green targets? Or does hitting the green lock targets do nothing? Same question for the hot foot targets during multiball.

Don;t know aboot Bigfoot but I don;t think the locks advance in Whirpool. If they are not lit during the mode they are not progressing the locks.