(Topic ID: 57710)
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White Water
Williams, 1993
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider soulrider911.
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Walnut Creek, CA
Hey guys so I’m going to hopefully be getting ahold of a WW that I’m going to restore. I don’t have a spray gun, and have made out pretty well with spray paint this far. But WW Has a fairly unique blue. anyone know spray paint color that is at least close?
I pulled up an old article that Bryan_Kelly was mentioning Painter's Touch #1927... but I can’t seem to find it love any help cheers!
Quoted from billsfanmd:start off with the boulder shooter
I have scoured the web and con not find them? Any help would be awesome!
Quoted from Hammerhead:Let me know if this doesn't work out. I have a boulder shooter rod on my game that I want to switch out for the standard. We could trade, just pay for my shipping
Yes! I’m totally down I’ll let you know thank you
Hey guys starting to order parts for my restore. So decals, I have only ever used retro returns and have been very pleased! I love that I can use a heat to work out any wrinkles bubbles and help the bond. They don’t make Whitewater cabinet decals. Planters does but I have never used theirs. Anyone have any input on their quality? Thanks
Nice! Dantesmark looks awesome
Wonder if pinstadium could integrate something like this being that they run the length of the playfield could be really cool!
1 week later
3 weeks later
Blitzburgh99 I had a similar issue on a game and I used some thick weather stripping around the display to prevent light bleed? May help
I have LCD's on all my games, the best... had an led on a stern and it was awesome... but man they are bright.... to the point my eyes could not really process the color separation at times. the LCD has a much softer feel, and more configurable 
just my 2 cents
Hey fellow Rafters, I need your help. Would one of you mind looking at your female 15 pin connector (harness side) that connects to the transformer?
I just put a new connector on and i may have swapped two wires by accident .
If you look you should have 2 blue wires of the 15, one is a blue/greyish strip, and one blue/violet stripe. see my pic below for reference is mine correct? thanks
wires (resized).png
Does anyone need some used ramps and boulders? I just threw my old ones up on ebay. The ramps have all been flame polished
ebay.com link: 711 53200 19255 0
allramps (resized).pngbowl1 (resized).png
all (resized).png
Added over 5 years ago: Sorry here is correct link
ebay.com link: itm
Blitzburgh99 yup that one has one I ran out lol so that Pic just doesn't have it on yet
I'll post one tonight showing it
Kerry_Richard I have a Mirco also and mine was dimpled for both posts.
Yesh23 hey dude looks like your missing a plastic that is supposed to go there that prevents the ball hitting the switch as you mentioned.
Interestingly I just got a new set of plastics, and this piece was not included so I had to use my old one.
Maybe I can pull mine off and scan it, may be able to get it made?
Here u can see
Oh interesting! Thanks for clarifying Jam_Burglar I had not clue it looked factory on mine
I like the exploration and craft that some folks have done to create the snow look and I can appreciate that, they are making it their own.
But, I'm one of the those guys that likes keeping things original with functional improvements and minimal theme deviation.
like for me i love the original look, its timeless... and its just my opinion:
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Happy Yeti
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Quoted from bigd1979:New cab and decals, new playfield, new ramps, new boulders and many new mechs and coils. Also had color dmd , cliffys/mantis and few other mods and upgrades. Im gonna be adding chrome armor,gi and insert ocd boards and some other stuff. Going to be 7500-8000k . Its basically a new wh20 with nice upgrades .
8K estimate for that list is quite a reasonable price as crazy as that sounds.
LCD all day IMO its a better display. LED, even on a really dim setting is blinding, and colors tend to bleed... Unless you have the eyes of a 15 year old the leds create small halos and it can be harsh. Nothing can beat the smooth crispness of LCD. But this is just my opinion, and I have owned both .
PolePosition you just have to remove the boulders, and can usually squeeze your fingers in there to attach it (if your using machine acres with nuts) if using the wood screw style way easier
0DDBB805-C750-44BF-B07E-62DA092DC627 (resized).jpegQuoted from TheLaw:Oh boy... Here comes the puking
LOL are you specially referring to the "rainbow puke club" by chance... If so, Ya well this machine ain't going in that category, hell'd freeze over before I let that happen
Fair enough When I get it all together I'm open to suggestions... And the whirlpool I'm kinda up in the air about, I have seen with blue, red, orange, and warm white I was using ice blue which is basically one step bluer than cool white
IMO it's when u use super saturated Colors that it gets barfy, and ya that blue under the mountain is a good example of it
Quoted from TheLaw:We've lost you already
Then in the words of goldmember "there is no pleeeaasing you." Sorry every single gi bulb in this game is not going to be white... So call it what u will, kinda funny how you clearly disregard any amount of work done to a machine because there is a blue bulb in it 
and now it's "shit". But like you said it's my machine and I'm definitely not seeking your approval. What a sinner I am to the pinball gods shame on me.
Point of clarification since you seem highly educated in this area... So all woz machines must Clearly be barf city in your book eh?
3 weeks later
Anyone in need of a decent used playfield set. Just put my old set on eBay starting at $59 cheers
ebay.com link: 0
1 week later
Quoted from Marvin:not a restore then. restomod- sure, restore no.
Hmm.. interesting semantics you offer... but your comment appears to have a negative connotation to it? Sorry if i'm taking it wrong.
But I'm still calling this a restoration. Just because I had a cabinet made does not change the fact that its a "restoration." Per your statement would then indicate any person doing a "restore" that used a new playfield, or any "new" parts for that fact would not be doing a restoration?... and I disagree with that.
The word restoration means restoring something to a previous or IMPROVED state. If you don't agree maybe email Webster 
restoration noun
res·to·ra·tion | \ˌre-stə-ˈrā-shən \
Definition of restoration
1 : an act of restoring or the condition of being restored: such as
a : a bringing back to a former position or condition : REINSTATEMENT
the restoration of peace
b : RESTITUTION
c : a restoring to an unimpaired or improved condition
the restoration of a painting
d : the replacing of missing teeth or crowns
2 : something that is restored
especially : a representation or reconstruction of the original form (as of a fossil or a building)
See 1c.. anyway, be the negative/pessimistic critical person all you want, and it's your god give right. Just know i kinda chuckle every time I see someone post a blatant negative comment -like 
Marvin - when they had the opportunity to say something supportive or maybe even positive... takes more muscles to frown than smile, just saying.
FYI... NEVER did I claim I RESTORED the chrome or the cabinet, maybe you should read through some of HEP's "RESTORATION" threads that use new cabinets Marvin.
Maybe elaborate on why? I love when folks just say “no” or “don’t do that” but never actually elaborate. Have some great reasoning?? Awesome please share
1 week later
dmacy I used a #8 1.71” post spacer and cut the top off works perfect:
https://www.pinballlife.com/8-black-plastic-spacers-with-mounting-notch.html
Got the Bigfoot mod in!! Was not too bad of an install great instructions zene10
79DD2A69-E994-40A7-85F7-BBF28FE59C84 (resized).jpegA2D125D6-4F2A-419B-BF80-4611B9513B5B (resized).jpegE958C911-2C9E-438C-8BB6-7B38E64D5DB8 (resized).jpegED86A79A-0B04-402F-AFCD-5EFE132914AF (resized).jpegHey guys have a major problem. Just put the playfield in my new cabinet and the shooter is roughly 1/2” too low?!
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First thought was the shooter was maybe mounted too low?
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Second was the wrong playfield hangers as I had to replace the old ones , I cross referenced with my creature assuming they use the same size.
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The playfield clearly looks to high at this end
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I’m totally lost love any help please
Think I may have answered my own question, it would appear whitewater uses longer hangers than creature. So maybe a simple fix
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9211
1 week later
2 weeks later
To each is their own, but I would have to agree the glare could be bad depending on how illuminated you plan to go with your speaker panel.
I had actually bought the lighted speaker for my WH20 panel that lighted pinball mods makes and ended up not installing it, for a few reasons, but one was I could tell it was going to reflect off the glass a lot. NOW this can be partially remedied with a bent plastic protector...https://www.pinballlife.com/bent-plastic.html but I digress
Also, Invisiglass could help glare but that's like another 250.00
PinDeLaPin I hope you don’t think I was being a nay sayer. Dude it’s your gam man, whatever makes yourself happy.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:You know ultimately it just comes down to me looking to build things for myself and not pay a ton of money to someone else for things that I know I can do or make myself.
Love this man can’t wait to see it!
Looks Good PinDeLaPin what about rotating the LED so the seam is on top. As when standing in front of the machine you more prone to seeing the bottom of the led in that opening rather than the top, so it could look more "seamless" just an idea
.
ya PinDeLaPin sadly still on hold waiting for the new cabinet... as the decals are totally out of stock
1 month later
Awesome arcadenerd925 !
1 month later
Quoted from woody76:Yes it is and also one of the most expensive if you have to start replacing ramps and stuff.
Yes amazingly WH20 is one of the most expensive games to restore, I think the ramps alone cost me close to 700.00
1 week later
Anyone need some pinblades? Had a spare set, I have some on my WH20 fits the theme perfect
3 months later
Quoted from jawjaw:Nice work, soulrider! Beautiful Whitewater. Is that missing boulder the one currently being sold? I know you paint matched it and looks like it fits right in. Tough to mix and match different boulders when everything looks different.
So... It took me a LOOONG time to find that one. There is a few other "missing mountains" that I have seen and I actually bought one that was on ebay and it looked like a wad of chewed gum LOL. This one I ordered from Australia, and I believe it was the last one they had.
Thank you so much Kerry_Richard Yes I Can not wait for you to see it.
Another small victory the side rails are on and the lockdown bar fits like a charm!!!
Whew... this is where the first cab failed.
Ready for the side rails
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Must say sc93cobra work never ceases to amaze me. Bling bling
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Annnd... it fits!
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3 weeks later
Hey folks have a question. I just installed a Flipper Fidelity system in my WH20, and noticed it would appear there is an unused connector with the new kit. I attached some photos for reference. Thanks so much
connector (resized).pngoldConnector (resized).png 2 months later
1 month later
Thank you Ericpinballfan
PinDeLaPin Yes this was a long one over 1.5 years. I uploaded a video its over in the restoration thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoration-rough-water-to-white-water-/page/6
mbeardsley So when I restored my game, bigfoot was SUPER dirty and his fur had come off both hands. Make sure you clean the area on the tops of his hands really well with either Naptha or alcohol. I used hot glue, the fur is totally solidly attached.
Also, you will need to heat up the old glue and wither try to use it, or remove it...
mbeardsley if your referring to the large metal trim on the backbox, I believe that part is pretty expensive and they are not easy to come by. I would do as you suggested. Remove it and paint it. I added a clear rubber pad where the playfield touches the metal trim, no scratches
Here is the part number 01-10889 its called "Waterfall light Shield" they are basically unobtanium at this point. So I suggest maybe using some heavy coats of primer before paint that may fill in some of the deeper scratches. Also if you use a matte or satin black not gloss, the marks will be much less visible as the light will not reflect as much. Hope this helps
1 week later
3 months later
Quoted from nocreditdot:Looking for an unbroken boulder for the left side of the playfield above the mine kickout. LMK if you can help.
Mike
Try Pinball Spare Parts (the boulders are darker but not as dark as their photos) https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-8786.html
Starship Fantasy: https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-Boulders
Those screws look too big. They are pretty small machine screws with a head size roughly 5mm. Mine are totally flush. I also have new ramps and the holes are countersunk. But if my memory serves me , on my original ramps the holes where countersunk as well.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Btw would flame polishing improve the looks around the holes and make those ugly cracks less visible?
Flame polishing works great to clean up scratches, wear, and abrasions on the ramps. BUT... any opening or hole you want to avoid at all costs as the heat will expand any opening in the blink of an eye. I highly encourage to not try and flame polish that area.
Elicash some games, those ramps do not fit together nicely, sounds like yours did... in my case I had to use a heat gun to form my ramps so they would meet correctly. The screws also keep that ramp from flapping around when you lift the playfield.
whatever works!
2 months later
Baby whitewater. If you would like one of these adorable minis they can he found on my Etsy shop https://etsy.me/2OSZcwR
95CCAA57-D729-4D38-9C20-1F7E96EC1F77 (resized).jpegI had a twisted Pins topper, decided to just to stay with my slightly bubbled original. The waterfall effect was no where near the original. The texture on the Twisted Pins is just not as deep... thus the effect just is not there. However, its better than nothing for sure. Here is a video Ill leave it up to you all to judge
4 months later
Aflacjack I can appreciate the detail and work you put into this. I have to say the Yeti looks Phenomenal!! Its your game, you have every right to put your twist on it!
I personally am a nostalgic old schooler and love my stock theme, doesn't make it right or wrong.
I would encourage us to think more about how we respond to others, the world has enough reactionary negativity. Maybe rather than saying something looks terrible, don't say anything at all. Cheers.
Rougarou I have seen on same games on full plunge where the ball goes SDM. Generally speaking the plunger spring should be pretty darn weak - to the point that when its almost fully pulled out should barely make it off the upper playfield ( at least this makes plunging better and wont launched lazer balls ).
You can try experimenting moving the ball guide and ramp slightly to get the ball to contact the left rubber and deflect it a bit on full plunge. my 2 cents.
Bryan_Kelly makes a very good point. I would also add that there is only so many of these classic games in existence, and even fewer nice examples.
Again, to each is there own, but there is nothing more beautiful that a tastefully restored / modded Whitewater. I personally love the warmth of the game and the color palette / world under glass. One of the best in pinball!
eba1c39ecb1d2ae99f94538f835fd6dcff7b7338 (resized).pngQuoted from mbeardsley:Yes, but your idea of "tastefully modded" can be quite different than others. You have some of the same mods that I have, on the other hand, I don't care for the chromed look or your "flintstones" shooter rod.
You are correct, kind of...no where did I say one is better than the other. Nor did I ask your opinion... but I was expecting a few criticisms people love to offer that in truck loads.
FYI bro it’s not a flinstones shooter rod, it’s a hand rolled wad of gum custom painted... and that stuff you call “chromed” are actually recycled trash cans pressed, lazer cut and polished, I am all about resourcefulness in my restores.
2 weeks later
Looking great mastercello I mounted a few wedge sockets on the backgoard and just used two bendies... the effect is suble and not overkill.
e5cc05ebf025bc1c0159ab6c8f8ef79177b4c78f (resized).jpg 1 week later
I had a bit of a challenge when I restored my Whitewater. My gap
Was not as severe, but what I did was put a few pieces of Mylar under that clear ramp where it screws to the wood. This way the Andre was just enough to not allow the ball
To Settle in the recess. I have had zero
Issues...
Also did a lot of tests hand rolling the ball over it
Correct Lhyrgoif i unfortunately don’t have a pic on my phone. But I needed using 2 layers of Mylar applied to the upper playfield right over the screw holes, then reattached the ramp... also used a heat gin so I could very carefully pull the ramp as close as I could to the upper playfield. As others have stated - and it’s true - aftermarket ramps are a pain. It took me a good 3 hours of tweaking , using a heat gun, etc... to get all my ramps properly in and aligned. But well worth it, the ramps have such an effect on the games presentation . Cheers
3 weeks later
Hey folks I have a question for you. I’ve noticed on my white water during multi ball the ball gets stacked up on the upper play field.
After closer inspection it would appear that When a ball lands on that upper play field from the VUK it has backspin which causes it to roll slightly backwards up the ramp and then come down towards the flipper... That’s when that happens in multi ball you get a congested mess of balls and then they all hit the flipper roughly at the same time.
Any suggestions on how to reconcile this thank you so much
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:We all have this same problem, or at least I do and I've seen other write about similar experiences. Not aware of a reliable fix for it.
I've tried the "fix" of putting rubbers at the VUK exit and while it may have made the backspin slightly better it's still there. I also increased the playfield angle slightly to get the balls faster down to the flipper and it helps a bit, but also made ramps harder to get up so...
If you find a reliable remedy without side effects then please tell us.
Thank you for the reply... interestingly when I restored my game the previous owner had shimmed two of the upper playfield supports to increase the angle... I might consider adding them back.
1 month later
Thanks mastercello mans a lot
1 week later
Zartan The one in the game above a person was making on Ebay for a period of time, and are not very good... I know because I bought one and promptly sent it back the mold was horrible (but maybe the one I got was a fluke).
The original “missing mountain” shown in the image below, are borderline unobtanium. Occasionally come up in Australia, and you are in luck i just checked and looks like they have one in stock here: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/03-8785-wf.html.
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I paint matched mine to match the others
Hey @utesichiban! Ya, I wanted just some subtle blue in the back and not overkill so I added a few Led mounts to the backboard. Just a few matrix connectors and sockets you can see here, I added one on the right as well. Key is aim them down to create diffuse light.
EA5DFA61-BAE9-4D75-B306-2492FA2561E5 (resized).pngUtesichiban absolutely love to help!
4 weeks later
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