(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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#2940 2 years ago

Hey guys just joined the club and picked up my 1st whitewater. Jumped right into cleaning it up and found my 1st problem upkicker into the wireform behind bigfoot. Everyplace I've checked is out of stock on this part (A-15926). The multiball assembly where it attaches to the ball popper is the part that has broken and was repaired(halfassed) with jb weld which failed. If anyone has one of these for sale please contact as i'm dead in the wayer until I get a new one. Thanks, Bill

#2942 2 years ago

Excellent! Thank you so muck Kneissl, the part has been ordered now all i need is to find someone selling replacement boulder garden boulders or the whole set for that matter. Anybody have any leads on a full replacement set ? Thks again

#2944 2 years ago

That is good news for sure i'm sure a lot of people will benefit from a new set of boulders. Hopefully the set will be affordable unlike the full set of ramps that are almost $700. Guess i will try my hand at flame polishing mine b4 i shell out that kind of cash. Still can't believe the foil topper still proves to elusive to reproduce as well.

#2945 2 years ago

Thought i would include a photo of the bush repair job on my broken upkicker bracket done by previous owner. You can see the jb weld used to reattach the 2 pieces. Surprised it didn't have duct tape around it also, however I could find that as i get deeper into the machine. Lol!

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#2947 2 years ago

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#2950 2 years ago

No doubt! Pretty sure the crazy glue was used on one my boulder plastics in the boulder garden so i'm thinking I may have every half-assed attempt at a repair done on this machine. Part was ordered from mantis yesterday but they are outta town this week so will have to wait till next week to get it.. Ughh

#2956 2 years ago

Question for everyone is what bulbs is everyone using for the whirlpool? I know in some other posts people were using blue or red. What number are the original bulbs and who sells them couldnt find those bulbs in the manual? Thx

#2958 2 years ago

Blue is dumb!! Love it thats funny as hell!! I will stick with the red ones thx.

#2963 2 years ago

I'm in need of the chase light total assembly including the board the power cord the output power cable to the 2 lighting boards if anyone has one for sale or knows where to find one. Thks.

#2969 2 years ago

Thx Manly. Just checked that out but didnt see that set included the power cable to the chase board. It does say wiring harness does that mean the power to the borad and also the board output to light boards power? Otherwise i will still need to locate a power cable to power the chase board. Thx

2 months later
#3009 2 years ago

Yeah definitely a good thing thst wasnt more serious. Last night in the middle of a game on ball 2 the game sent up diagonsl lines on my dmd and killed the game. The ball rolled down into the drain as the flipoers were dead. Then i could push start and a new game started just fine so I have no idea what the hell that was all about but hopefully not something starting to go bad.

4 weeks later
#3017 2 years ago

Hey guys been working on wh20 fixing a bunch of little odds and ends. So i'm down to my last error and am completely stumped on it. I have rebuilt the damn pop bumpers completely and am still getting this error at startup. Just to be clear I had this issue also b4 idid the rebuild. It works completely fine after I reset the error in test mode and scores properly. Anyone have any insight into this issue to help me keep my sanity.

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#3021 2 years ago
Quoted from zene10:

The manual is your friend. Get pdf copy at IPDB if you don’t have a paper version

Yrs I have a manual and have gone over it and rebuilt the pop bumpers and replaced the switch on each one also and am still having the problem.

Thx for the suggestion Davi will check those later on today.

#3023 2 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

the circled one on the top is stuck closed.

Thk you Marvin i will definitely check it when I get home. Sure hoping thats what it is cause its driving me crazy.

#3028 2 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

the circled one on the top is stuck closed.

Ok Marvin u a bad dude! Got home and checked it out and u sir called it spot on. I didn't realize there were switches under that mountain plastic was thinking it was referring switch 55 to the right pop bumper. Sure enough i took that plastic off and that switch was definitely closed.Thk u!

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#3034 2 years ago
Quoted from zene10:

switch to the right of the center pop. It is most likely closed all the time. Needs to be adjusted open
See manual page 2-43 for exact location

Yep sorry for forgetting bout your initial advice as well zene10. It was right on as well. My own fault for not looking in manual at switch layout diagram. Saw the error and immediately in my head made the assumption it was saying right pop. I guess we all know what happens when u assume right?

#3037 2 years ago

So all of a sudden I got the infamous bigfoot error last night. Looked at my bi-directional board and the led would light intermittently. After I looked at the board I determined the cap had started to leak. Question is can I replace the 35v 100uf cap with a 50v 100uf one? I only have the 50v ones on hand and wasnt sure it would make matters worse if i installed it. Any feedback would be great on this thx.

#3038 2 years ago
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#3040 2 years ago

Ok cool good to know thank you Davi.

2 weeks later
#3062 1 year ago

Mine has that ring also.

4 weeks later
#3197 1 year ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

I have a mould for a missing mountain. Pm me if interested in a missing mountain.

Quoted from twinmice:

Anyone know where to get the missing mountain and the boulder shooting rod? Thanks Mike

This is who you need to contact @twinmice

#3228 1 year ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Any hope for a reasonably priced topper sticker?

This is the only place I know of to find a topper sticker. Enjoy! http://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/white-water/white-water.htm

1 month later
#3305 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Joined the club! All in working order, Sound board is out , topper is faded and I have a split boulder but we’ll get her in working order soon. [quoted image]

Congratulations on joining the club its a great game. You also are missing the light shield up top that covers the light boards that directs the light up towards the topper.

#3307 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I have it! Just took it off to clean. Thx!

Good deal that is a hard part to find I have a buddy trying to find that piece with no luck.

4 weeks later
10
#3413 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I can't help so one find the blasphemous white one sorry.

What no help to find a snow styled theme change to a warm weather activity? I mean I thought everybody went white water rafting in the freezing cold winter months. Whoever came up with that stupid snow theme should be ashamed of themselves. To each his own i guess its just makes zero sense to me. If you want a winter based game by a "Wipeout" and you will have winter sports.

#3415 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Back in the club... picked up a restored example . Only pin ive bought more than once. The topper is the nicest ive ever seen.... no bubbles and looks amazing.

Congratulations and welcome back. Still find it completely incomprehensible that we can go to the moon and beyond but for some reason we can't recreate a topper decal made in 1993.

#3422 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I like the exploration and craft that some folks have done to create the snow look and I can appreciate that, they are making it their own.
But, I'm one of the those guys that likes keeping things original with functional improvements and minimal theme deviation.
like for me i love the original look, its timeless... and its just my opinion:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Happy Yeti
[quoted image]

Everytime u post new pics i drool a little more on my phone screen. That is coming along really well and every part is glossy. Looking good!

#3432 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Picked up this beautiful wh20 and the topper is the nicest one ive ever seen... actually the pin looks like new for the most part. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Damn shes a bute. Does it still have that fresh off the showroom floor smell also?

#3443 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

New cab and decals, new playfield, new ramps, new boulders and many new mechs and coils. Also had color dmd , cliffys/mantis and few other mods and upgrades. Im gonna be adding chrome armor,gi and insert ocd boards and some other stuff. Going to be 7500-8000k . Its basically a new wh20 with nice upgrades .

Very nice indeed! Pretty sure I wouldn't even wanna play it for fear of messing it up. Awesome pickup indeed, congratulations!

#3455 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I don't know what artist or songs would fit the theme? ZZ Top fits Getaway perfect but there had to be something for WH2O

Maybe you capture some sound from "Deliverance". Nothing like a little dueling bsnjos when you make it to wet willies!

1 week later
#3510 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Then in the words of goldmember "there is no pleeeaasing you." Sorry every single gi bulb in this game is not going to be white... So call it what u will, kinda funny how you clearly disregard any amount of work done to a machine because there is a blue bulb in it and now it's "shit". But like you said it's my machine and I'm definitely not seeking your approval. What a sinner I am to the pinball gods shame on me.
Point of clarification since you seem highly educated in this area... So all woz machines must Clearly be barf city in your book eh?

At this point I don't give a big hairy shit if you loaded it up with all pink bulbs. Whatever color bulbs you go with will not ultimately take away from the amazing work you are doing to this machine. Everyone gets so caught up (myself included with the white boulders) in the petty BS that we forget about all the hard work that had to be done to this machine to even get it to the point of bulb discussion. Opinions are like assholes, everybody has one but some of them really stink. We are all entitled to have our own just saying try not to negate the great work the op has done to this point. We should be celebrating all the work he has done to revitalize a dead machine and bring some grandeur to this hobby. Ultimately there is nobody following this thread that doesn't wish they had either the time, money or drive to make their machine look as good as his when finished. Just my 2 cents

1 month later
#3572 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhi:

On a good day, it’s possible.. Spine chiller, insanity, lock, insanity and disaster drop? Don’t forget to hang on!

Wow I've never hit that combo fully but sounds like a lot of points. 3 shot combo is bout the best I have managed to pull off but guess I have a new challenge to shoot for!

#3641 1 year ago
Quoted from branlon8:

Thank you for your comments. I searched this thread for “cliffy” before I posted, but I’ll have another look. The only hangups I was getting were directly on the divot. This is why the cliffy appealed to me. The ramp on my game was slightly higher than the playfield, but it was slightly lower than the top of the cliffy, this is why I raised the ramp. The horizontal gap is maybe 4mm. Not sure how I could put in the VUK differently as there are two screws on the pf and a hole on the popper to align the input end, but I’ll look. Since you are not getting bouncing, clearly something is different.

You can get the cliffy protectors at www.passionforpinball.com

#3647 1 year ago

Can anyone explain the difference in the coin doors for me. Some wh2o's have 3 coin slots and others have 1 or 2. What gives? Is there a reason why? It seems like the ones I have seen with 1 slot are reimports or is that wrong?

#3651 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:Domestic on most pins of this era should be “usually” the two coin slots. Exports were 3 or 1. So most here in the US would prefer to have the two slot. But you can get the 2 slot front (3D printed however unless they’re being reproduced again) and convert a three slot to two on the front side.

Is this always the case? I have a friend who owns a wh20 he bought from a dentist who bought it NIB. On the inside of the cabinet it has the serial number and the title and then it says 3 slot. This game was sold in the USA and has the 3 slot coin door on it which is why I was inquiring. Wasnt sure if some of the 3 slot doors were maybe built to go overseas and didnt quite make it.

#3654 1 year ago

Is there any clear way to know if the game is a reimport? Some kind of markings or do they put an import stamp on the machine somewhere? Otherwise how would someone know if they were buy a machine that was reimported? Thks

#3656 1 year ago
Quoted from Elicash:

If you look at serial number sticker inside of cab it shows the voltage. European games are listed at 220 volts. North American games are at 115 or 120 volts. If you're in USA and your sticker shows 220 volts then you have a reimport.

Good to know going forward thank you guys for you answers.

#3658 1 year ago

I was looking into getting some side blades like these but was wondering if you really have to watch raising and lowering the playfield. Wasnt sure if they scratch or tear easily and they sure arent cheap either for just being a sticker. Theres really no reason they should cost more than $30-$40 imo. But I digress, what are everyones thoughts on them, worth it or not?

Quoted from jsyjay:

These are the best side blades imo, they match the ramps exactly with the rocks.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283114524605[quoted image]

#3663 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I have a plaque on mine from japan. From what I heard, it went from the US, to Germany, to Japan, and then Canada. I bought it outside of Toronto and brought it back to the US.

Wow that game racked up some serious frequent flyer miles.

#3670 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Anyone have any good pictures of how the topper attaches? I have all the hardware but would like to know what should be where (factory). Thanks all!

Wont be home till bout 1 today but if you still need em then I will take some lics and post them.

#3671 1 year ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I’ve owned wh20 for about three years and never had a VJ. Man I suck. I have posted a billion point score but that was all down to 5x playfield jackpots. I will get it one day..... oh yes I will

I've had my wh20 for a year and still never got the vacation jackpot either. Love this game and plan on keeping it so I will keep trying.

#3690 1 year ago
Quoted from zene10:

Yes. Switch 55 can cause problems. If the machine has not been maintained, it can be stuck shut, causing matrix problems.
Drove me insane.
Other's have had the same issue. See six months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitewater-club-lifejackets-not-required/page/61#postbox

I couldn't agree more. That damn switch did drive me crazy

1 week later
#3739 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

All good! Running with a PinballSP color dmd mk66 magic edition

[quoted image]

Did you use his magic editor software and color the game or are you just using it with the basic 4 color mode?

#3744 1 year ago

The last couple games I have noticed i would need a certain flasher to advance to the next raft. I havent had a chance to really troubleshoot to deeply on this. Somehow i'm hitting something else and it will then act as though I hit the target when in fact I didn't. Would this indicate a loose wire possibly shorting or bad diode or something else? Im getting no credit dots either so not sure switch test will indicate any problems. Any ideas where to start diagnosing this? Thx

#3745 1 year ago

Pretty sure I just found part of my problem here. Someone took out the original switch and mounting bracket and replaced it with an old ass rollover eos switch. You can see in the pic the eos is actually seperating. Now im going to have to track down this bracket and pickup the correct microswitch to change it back to original. Does anyone have an extra one of these brackets they could help me out with?

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#3748 1 year ago

This is the only one im seeing but it doesnt look to be the same.

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#3750 1 year ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Dang I thought I got em there before..
Marco has a good variety
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8719

Yep now that looks like the right one. Thks!

#3770 1 year ago
Quoted from MajorDrainer:

Hello. New owner here. Does anyone know where this piece goes? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
[quoted image]

I think that goes out in the pegboard in your garage to hold a tool

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#3775 1 year ago

That was a really good deal i was 4th in line for it. Original toppers easily go for 4 or $500 all day long. Somebody scored big time just in time for the weekend.

#3783 1 year ago
Quoted from judremy:

You can get awarded a hazard shot by completing the kickback targets when the kickback is already lit.

Dont know how I didnt know that thx for the heads up.

1 week later
#3787 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

I was playing another pin tonight after completing a few on my Whitewater. Whitewater was still on but suddenly it started making a popping type sound and the DMD display went out along with the topper and topper lights.
I turned on and off a few times but the popping sound continues when on and the DMD and topper are still out. Is this a blown fuse, something on the board, or something else? I’ve never seen something like this happen with any pin I’ve owned in the past. Any insight on what happened and where the problem may lie is very appreciated.

Very strange indeed. The obvious question is did you recently do any repairs or do any mods to the machine? Where is the popping sound coming from, under the playfield, behind the backglass? Narrowing down the origin would be my 1st step.

#3790 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

It seems to be coming from underneath the playfield. No recent installation of any mods. I did have a guy resolder the extra ball switch last week as the wire had come loose. Other then that, no work or mods have been installed since I got it in early January.
I hope something really bad didn’t happen. When the dmd and topper are involved, it is a bit unsettling.

Post a pic of the of the solder job on that switch.

1 week later
#3802 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Got her into the lineup today, So excited!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are 3 solid pins. How is the pinballsp color dmd working out for you on wh20 are you happy with it?

#3805 1 year ago

I'm in the process of trying to build my own lighted speaker panel. I don't want to run a wire down to connect to the GI to pull power up to the 6.3v comet led strips. I would like to pull riggt from the board and it looks like J103, J137, J132, J124 are all open headers. I was wondering if anyone knew if I could pull power from one of these or anywhere else off the board for the led light strips. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thx

#3807 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

Advice, don't do it, you'll just be adding glare to the glass.

There are a coyple real good videos i've found on youtubr on hiw to diffuse the light along with using dimmers from comet to control the amount of light that is emitted.

#3810 1 year ago

Its strictly for aesthetics just because the speaker panel is blah to me. It needs a little bit of pop in my opinion and the way to do that for me personally is to add a diffused amount of light up there. It's no different than adding a lighted pop bumper ring or some 8smd flasher bulbs to your flashers some people say that it's too bright I personally like it to each his own. Lighted pinball Mods makes and sells them for 250 bucks if you've got a couple hours of your time and a little imagination you can do it for about $15 not really sure why creativity is completely shouted down around here all the time.

#3813 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

pindelapin I hope you don’t think I was being a nay sayer. Dude it’s your gam man, whatever makes yourself happy.

Nope not u man Soulrider911 i've got mad respect for the work you have done on bringing your wh20 back to life.

#3814 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

To quote another Missourian, if it makes you happy, it can’t be so bad.

You know ultimately it just comes down to me looking to build things for myself and not pay a ton of money to someone else for things that I know I can do or make myself.

#3818 1 year ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

I did some repair work on the driver board and now I have two new problems:
- when you first turn on the game and you're in attract mode, the VUK fires 5 or 6 times
- all three flippers are weaker than they used to be; the upper right flipper bounces and doesn't even hold.
Otherwise the game plays as it should and all other coils fire nice a strong.
My repairs had nothing to do with the flippers, any guesses what could be going on? Just a connection in the wrong place?

What work did you do on the driver board and what was it you were fixing initially before the new problems arose?

#3820 1 year ago

I didn't have a whole awful lot of time today but I created some templates out of cardstock and then was able to cut out the spacers. Still have to sand them down though but I'm making progress slow and steady at getting the speaker light mod done for a cheap amount

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#3821 1 year ago

I've gotten a little more done, one side is at least. You can see on the close up pic it looks brighter than it is.

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#3823 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Hey that looks nice!

Thanks. Have to pick up some longer bolts to secure the speakers and then dial in the brightness with the dimmer and it should be done.

#3827 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Looks Good PinDeLaPin what about rotating the LED so the seam is on top. As when standing in front of the machine you more prone to seeing the bottom of the led in that opening rather than the top, so it could look more "seamless" just an idea .

Yep good eye I noticed that as well. Hoping to finish it up tomorrow and will fine tune it then.

#3828 1 year ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

This would also work well. It's an LED rope from adafruit.
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3867[quoted image]

Those look interesting thanks for the link will definitely check into them.

#3831 1 year ago
Quoted from Zavadoza:

This is one I just added. Nice touch for the restoration I’m showing at TPF. I didn’t gave it turned on for this pic of the game. Will add when I take another.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Where did that speaker panel come from?

#3833 1 year ago
Quoted from Zavadoza:

lightedpinballmods
Some feedback on it:
The Good:
- I think it's well priced, considering it's a full panel with lights on the inside. (keep in mind your speaker translite will have to be shaved on the back or you will need to purchase a new one. This is just the panel that's behind the translite).
-You can program the lights to have different patterns and brightness.
The Bad:
-Took over a month to get the panel when I ordered. Communication was not great from the seller. They were apologetic.
-The speaker grills and holes are not flush to the speaker panel translite. You will see it when I post a new pic.
-The old speaker panel was secured with brackets that went behind the wood. This came with smaller brackets that go in front of the wood and make the panel sit too far towards the front. I'm still trying to get a good fix for this.
-Not all hardware is provided for securing your old speakers. The screws from my previous speakers have a different threading than this board.
-The instructions online are for a previous model, not the current iteration.
-There is a board kit to control the power to only work when the game is on. That's pretty cool, when it's not shorting out. There's a poor connection from the thin wire that I had to fix.
-I had to use a sander on the top of the panel on the back side to get my H channel to fit on the top. It was a significant amount of sanding.
Overall I recommend this product, as long as you are comfortable with making modifications.

So after some digging and then consulting with "Mr. Wizard" himself @ChrisHibler I was able to with Chris's advice pull power from j119 on the power driver board. That is a steady supply which feeds power to the coin door. This whole project for me just started as a way to brighten up the darkness between the playfield and the translite. The whole lighted speaker panel was never my intention just some accent lighting around the speakers. The lighted speaker panel does look really cool I just am cheap and didn't want to drop $200. Please show pics when you are finished i'm sure it will look great. Had to cut a new spacer just now as I cut the 1st one too small so now hoping to get mine finished up by tomorrow.

#3850 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Great price, I paid 4500 for mine and it was a pile. This one is in great shape!

Whats the status of your renovation? Last update was you were waiting for the new replacement cabinet has it arrived yet?

#3853 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

ya pindelapin sadly still on hold waiting for the new cabinet... as the decals are totally out of stock

Well dang that really stinks I feel like all of the rest of us are on hold as well who followed you up until this point we all want to see it pulled over the finish line and complete.

#3860 1 year ago

Hey guys I put a poll up in the forum about boulder sets please vote.

#3883 1 year ago
Quoted from Zavadoza:

Here is the lighted speaker panel. You can adjust the brightness and also patterns with a remote.
[quoted image]

Looks really good!

#3888 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Anyone have the Wet Willie's sign from lighted pinball mods? My son wants to add it to the game. I 'm not opposed but I would prefer the skull mountain mod instead though.[quoted image][quoted image]

No reason you can't have both

#3890 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

So I tracked down a very nice White Water - new pf, new boulders, new ramps etc.
I already ordered a colorDMD (LED version), bigfoot hotfoot mod, pinduino - what else essential to get?
It does not have Cliffy's or Mantis am I taking a huge risk not getting these for a home game.
zene10 highly recommended the GI OCD and LED OCD which after seeing videos I really want to get but ouch another $300 for this game.

If you value your boulder garden plastics then I highly suggest the cliffys and the mantis protectors are definitely a must also if your ramps arent cracked behind the lock targets.

#3910 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

I found a disconnected or broken solid orange wire under the playfield (circled in red, middle area). I traced the wire to the left edge where it connects to a bulb (also circled); it looks to be a ground wire. Not sure where the open end goes. Hoping someone can look under their playfield and tell me where its supposed to connect.
Game seems to be playing fine...
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Hopefully this will help you out looks like it attaches to a ground strap right above that pop bumper

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#3913 1 year ago
Quoted from judremy:

I think that is one of the leads for the pop bumper, not a grounding strap. That goes up above the playfield.

Ok so after a closer look it is the leg for the pop bumper lamp. Just snapped the pic earlier and had to run out the door.

#3916 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Here'a a sketch of how the 3 lamp sockets are wired. Is the orange supposed to go somewhere?
[quoted image]

Is the light inside the pop bumper where the wire is connected in my pic lighting? If so then my guess is they eliminated the need to use that orange wire.

#3918 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Yes, all three of my pop bumper lights are working. Since it appears to not be needed, what’s the best way to leave it? Cap it, or take the wire out all the way to where it’s connected to the left gi bulb?

I personally would just cap it as i'm not a fan of removing parts from games. Who knows you may need that wire someday.

1 week later
#3940 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

So the wife has made it clear that she does not like the red bulbs in the whirlpool. She insists they should be blue.
What do you guys suggest I use for blue in the pool? blue covers, blue frosted LEDs?
And is there an easy way to change out these bulbs or am I looking a tear out of the ramps?
TIA

Oh boy here we go. Prepare yourself cause you know theres a shit storm of opinions coming your way on this topic. As always I say its your game do what makes you happy but some others are very opinionated on the blue lights in the whirlpool topic.

1 week later
#3964 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Need a little tech help from my Whitewater brothers.....the topper lights stopped working. What are steps to troubleshoot? Game is completely stock lighting, etc. thank you in advance!

You do have the correct 194 bulbs in the light boards right? If you plug in 555's which do fit it will blow the fuse.

#3971 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Yes. Correct bulbs. It’s been working perfect for months. Where is the fuse for the topper lights? I’ll check that first.

If memory serves me its f114 but I could be wrong if so someone else will correct me.

#3975 1 year ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

Breaking news ... Bigfoot is real [quoted image]

Holy shit!! Somebody needs to start a gofundme account to raise money for this guy to have a laser hair removal treatment.

#3982 1 year ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Did I miss something?

Yes you did. It was the Twisted Pins going out of business sale Everything Must Go.

#3984 1 year ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

I kinda glad I didnt know about this fire sale at twisted!

Hell who even knew that they had any thing left to sell off

#3994 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Hit my first 5-way combo and third Vacation Jackpot this past week! Yeee-haaaaa!!!!

Did you get your chase lights back working?

#4007 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I was told at the Texas Pinball show that bolder sets would be out in 6 weeks per Starship Fantasy. So that would technically be 2 weeks away? I hope.

Ha old Larry sticks to his story no matter what show or email. Its always 6 weeks man he has been telling me that shit for well over a year so I wouldn't get to excited about it.

1 week later
#4012 1 year ago
Quoted from Devinsupertramp:

Looking for some feedback/advice on WhiteWater issue. One of the cables under my machine came disconnected. A molex cable. I'm still new to having to fix my machines on my own. I ordered what I thought was the right Molex part, bought the Set of 2 - 4 Pin Molex Male Plug with Pins .093 from GameRoom Guys. Ended up the part was a lot bigger than the original so wouldn't fit the female end. Anyone have any idea what Molex plug I need? And the best place to find one? Just spent the last 3 hours trying to find what the plug is I need with no luck :/ But it's part of the cable that hooks to the sensor of WhiteWater for the ball exit from the Whirlpool. The two photos I have so the busted cable, and shows the new Molex plug I bought next to the original one, as you can see it's to big.
[quoted image][quoted image]

None listed with the usual sources of marco and pinballife. If link doesn't work just search 4 pin molex on ebay.
ebay.com link » 4 Pin Molex Connector Lot 1 Matched Sets W 18 24 Awg 062 Free Hanging Plug

1 week later
#4016 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Here is a statistical comparison of rubber ring in the boulders (from the factory), versus no rubber ring in Boulder. Approx 6 months of play on each.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Well I would say that is pretty damn definitive!

1 week later
#4019 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

I was going thru switch testing over the weekend and came across the coin door switch. It tested as working, but then I started wondering, what is its purpose? There is no chime or sound made when the door is opened, and the flashers and coils still work. Do I have an issue, or is this how it was intended?
Thanks!

Mine does the exact same thing so i guess thats the way it was intended. Otherwise my machine has an issue as well.

#4020 1 year ago

Ok so just thought I would post this in case anyone is having anything weird like this happen. I replaced the rollover switch at entry to boulder garden as it was failing and only registering intermittently. Almost immediately I started having issues again with failure to register. I popped the playfield up to examine it and found the 3 legs smashed over. Thinking maybe I let the playfield down in some strange way and caused this so I swapped it out with another new switch. Nxt thing I know the VUK starts firing upon startup and I cant figure out wtf is going on. So again I lift the playfield and again notice the damn legs on the switch are all smashed and bent over grounding each other out. Now i set the playfield down on the support bars and pear in through the coin door and quickly determine the problem. Turns out the 1 of the lock lugs that catch the playfield as you are pulling it out had unscrewed itself and was only hanging on by a thread. Since it was sticking out about 3/4 of an inch it was making contact with the switch and essentially crushing it when the playfield slid in or out. The lug has a slot in it to tighten which I did and hallelujah problem solved. Just a very strange problem I thought I would share just in case anyone was having these symptoms.

20190515_030104 (resized).jpg20190515_030108 (resized).jpg20190515_150635 (resized).jpg20190515_150706 (resized).jpg
#4022 1 year ago
Quoted from PolePosition:

Thanks for the reply. Good to know that I'm not the only one. If someone chimes in and says its supposed to work differently, at least we'll get to tackle the problem together!

Funny I was thinking the very same thing

#4023 1 year ago

I forgot to mention in my above post about another symptom of that switch grounding out. If it is grounding itself out when you shoot a ball into No Way Out ball 3 locked will display on the dmd.

#4028 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

That's fucking hideous

Well dont hold back, tell us how you really feel about it!

#4039 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

These two belong together![quoted image]

Are you still pleased with that pinballsp color dmd? Have you messed with the coloring software at all yet or just playing it as is?

#4069 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Restoration is in progress [quoted image][quoted image]

That looks good Peter is that a whole new transformer or has it been rebuilt?

#4074 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

Thanks. It's the original, 26 years old transformer. Cleaned, painted and polished by me.

Wow thats remarkable. Cannot wait to see your pics roll in showing your restoration project.

#4079 1 year ago
Quoted from fiberdude120:

I had a sim problem on another machine and it was the IDC connector where it plugged into the board. replaced with molex and all was fine.

You stole my thunder! Was gonna suggest swapping out all those IDC connectors with molex and use only trifurcon connectors.

#4081 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

One of the things I’ve never done repair wise is replace connectors. Could you guys point me to the right hardware/parts I need to accomplish this?

Just determine what size connectors you need to replace the existing IDC ones with and buy trifurcon crimp on connectors to go with the connector. For example if you have a 7 pin IDC connector you just buy a 7 pin molex. Pull the wires out of the IDC and snip them off and strip it and crimp it onto new trifurcon connector and push into the corresponding spot on the connector. My suggestion would be to pull out each wire individually and finish it into the new connector b4 pulling out tbe next one

#4082 1 year ago

On left is a 7 pin IDC connector which you replace with a 7 pin molex. The connectors in front are the trifurcon crimp on connectors that you will also need. I suggest buying extra as sometimes they get messed up when trying to crimp them on.

20190527_132406 (resized).jpg
#4084 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

In the interim I’ve been reading more about this. Seems like the crimper tool itself plays a major role and most people are saying not to cheap out on it. Problem is I didn’t see anyone recommending a specific crimper. Suggestions?

I didn't waste my money on it was far too expensive I just used a standard pair of electrical strippers with the plier tips and folded the tabs over onto themselves and squeezed the piss outta them.

2 weeks later
#4103 1 year ago

I was having some flaky opto issues with the opto on the back by the whirlpool popper so I took it apart and I realized it was just kind of hanging there and apparently I am missing the bracket that holds it together. After checkinh all the local guys like marco and pinballlife and some others i've realized its not for sale. If anybody has an extra one of these brackets that's in the pic and would like to sell it or donate it or whatever you want to do please PM me.

Screenshot_20190608-094537_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg
#4110 1 year ago

Does anybody know where to get the proper insulated fenale connectors that connect to microswitches and what size they are? I ordered some I thought were the right ones but were twice as big as the ones I need.

20190610_134628 (resized).jpg20190610_134629 (resized).jpg
#4124 1 year ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

I have a few who have the header and some who don't.
You can solder a header in to use it, (done that myself )

Just a question pertaining to this issue that I was wondering about. Soldering in a header pin where the factory didn't add one and then using that as a power lead would that cause a higher draw and potentially lead to fuses being blown on that particular circuit? Or is it already rated for that additional draw but Williams just didn't feel the need to add that other header pin during production run?

#4130 1 year ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Down to "1 or 2 more weeks" for the past 4 or 5 months.... so that's something!

They must be getting closer because they were $119 a set and now Larry has jacked the price up to $192 still states out of stock though!

#4132 1 year ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I noticed that as well, took effect here in the last week or so.

Inflation i guess? Nothing like a 70% price increase for some nice plastic pieces.

1 week later
#4134 1 year ago
Quoted from freegame450:

My WH2O has started acting up. Running LH-6 ROM. Turn machine on and it begins normal start up testing, Bigfoot head spins continuously and machine does not boot up. Can not get into game menu to run any switch tests.
Have already re-seated ribbon cables and ROM chip. Appreciate suggestions from fellow owners.

If you still have batteries on your mpu have you changed them out?

#4136 1 year ago
Quoted from freegame450:

Yes, still running with batteries that I replace every 2-3 years. Have never had any loss of machine memory in over 10 years. Current batteries 1 year old, reading 1.46 volts each. Put new batteries in just to see if makes any difference. Still no boot up. LEDs on cpu show normal D19 is off, D20 blinks, D21 stays on. Sound board gives normal 1 Beep.
No cycling of feature lamps. I unplugged lamp matrix J137 connector on the driver board and now CPU will boot up and I can access game menus. Bigfoot motor and Optos working correct.
So now I just need to figure out if the problem is on the Driver board or the CPU board.
Anyone have ideas ?

Your initial post said your machine started acting up what was it doing when it was acting up? And do we assume that even though it was acting up it was booting and playing and then all of a sudden it just started to not boot?

1 week later
#4140 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Two great pins and two great towns in Kansas![quoted image]

What a great sighting.

#4142 1 year ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

I am possibly joining this club on Thursday. I did a trade with cash for my walking dead. The photos looked great so I’m hoping for the best!!

Sweet! Hop on in theres room on the raft now grab a paddle

2 weeks later
#4157 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

What is the correct flipper coil setup?
According to manual:
Left: 15411, orange
Lower right: 11629, blue
Upper right: 11629, blue
According to parts list:
Left: 15411, orange
Lower right: 11629, blue
Upper right: 11630, red

Hey Peter the parts list is technically correct. However, I personally do not like that coil on the left flipper and I changed mine to a 11629. Feels much better imo and seems to make disaster drop ramp more fluid. I have had zero issues with it, no plastics cracking or anything negative at all.

#4158 1 year ago

Just as a reference point as well here is a coil list description.

Screenshot_20190726-044018_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg
#4179 1 year ago

Just 2 more weeks this time guys seriously! What a freaking joke. All we hear from larry over at starship-fantasy is 2 more weeks. Gotta be the worlds worst businessman. Lets just go back in this thread and count how many times he tells people those boulder sets will be ready in 2 more weeks. This clown has zero credibility and if he is incapable of producing them then have the decency to sell the damn molds to someone like Mark@freeplay40 who is more than competent and capable of producing a good product. Sorry bout the rant here folks but I am sick and tired of hearing this 2 week shit for the past 2 years!

#4191 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Had an opportunity to get a nice Whitewater and couldn't pass it up. Always loved this game. Great to finally own one![quoted image]

Looks like you seated right in between 2 others great games also. Nice pickup!

1 week later
#4217 12 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Threading the boulders is rough. I'm not very manly.

I second this statement. Threading the boulders is the hardest shot of the game for sure. Right flipper heavy I don't agree with at all as a matter of fact I find it to be very balanced.

#4223 12 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

After more than 25 years ... My first Whitewater ![quoted image][quoted image]

Congratulations its an awesome game. Not trying to be a dick but did you notice you have a credit dot?

#4229 12 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

2 switches require attention... get them in .. Find the issues to repair

Good deal. Probably bigfoots cave switch like TheLaw stated. Just making the point so you could ask for help here in the club if it turned out to be serious.

#4237 12 months ago

Hey everyone just thought I would let you know starship fantasy has boulder sets in stock finally. Better grab a set before they disappear again, i'm sure these are gonna go very quickly.

#4238 12 months ago

Heres the link to the boulder sets to make it a little easier for everyone.
https://starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Whitewater-Boulders

#4240 12 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Ouch... $192

Tell me bout it my ass is still bleeding after that purchase. What are you gonna do though he has a monopoly on all this crap.

#4246 12 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

$370 with shipping and tax. No comment.

Ok Peter I was bitching about $227 but you definitely have something to bitch about. $370 Ouch!!

#4255 11 months ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Can anyone tell me why some PF's have a red Ball Save Insert and others have a Yellow? I've noticed in the gallery, games have either or...I was just curious if this had something to do with the time frame the PF was made..thanks!

Interesting.. I've never actually noticed a difference but now after looking mine is yellow/orange.

#4263 11 months ago
Quoted from tac007:

After 12 months of solid play i finally hit my first JP[quoted image]

Congrats! Had mine a year and a half and still haven't hit it yet

#4280 11 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Shipping confirmation!!!

Holy F-ing shit!!! I have been waiting for these damn boulders for almost 2 years now and I just got the shipping confirmation as well. High fives to us J67ab!

#4282 11 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Sweetness, I have like 7 things to do when these boulders go in, rebuilding the popbumpers, cliffy’s, excited !!!

Haha me too way to funny.. Never could take the one pop boulder off cause its hot glued in place. I bought the the full set of cliffys 2 years ago been waiting for these boulders to install them.

#4287 11 months ago

I am in real need of this bigfoot opto bracket. Does anyone have a spare or maybe have one on a parts machine that they could let go of? If you have this part please send me a pm. Thanks

20190821_062651 (resized).jpg
#4289 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

What about 3D print? This part holds optos only, no ball contact normally.

Hey Peter I would go that route except i'm missing the part completely so have no way to replicate it.

#4290 11 months ago

Thank you for the responses. sataneatscheese may have the part I need and will let me know for sure. If he doesn't I will proceed with my begging for one from someone else

#4295 11 months ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Despite having over 40 extra metal parts for this machine and more than a dozen brackets, I do not have the part you need. If it was me I'd buy an erector set and get creative. Good luck![quoted image]

Well damn that sucks. Does anyone else have one of these brackets they would be willing to get rid of?

#4299 11 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Mission completed! The factory bracket is not ideal (need to bend the legs), this version is improved.
Tested on a spare mini playfield with ball guides and optos.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Peter that is amazing! Great job.

#4301 11 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

I guess I have some work to do, waay better colors than the German repros on the bumpers.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No kidding I was excited until they showed up and I realized how much work I now have to do. Pop bumper rebuild kit i've been holding off doing until new boulders arrived. Now boulders are here and I see a big job ahead of me.

#4304 11 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

All done! Whew![quoted image]

Nice work!

#4305 11 months ago
Quoted from J67ab:

All done! Whew![quoted image]

Did you reuse the red flasher domes or put new ones on? I've seen the orange domes used and they look pretty good and was thinking bout ordering some

2 weeks later
#4353 11 months ago

Big props to user Davi for recreating the bracket that I was missing from my machine. Can't say enough good things about Peter for taking the time to make this part and then ship it half way around the world. If anyone has any future dealing involving Peter be rest assured he is an extremely classy guy whose character need not be questioned. Thank you again Peter.

20190907_135239 (resized).jpg
#4354 11 months ago

It's a perfect fit Peter!

20190908_151328 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#4374 11 months ago
Quoted from MikeSinMD:

Also, I should add, when first turning the game on, after it boots up the upper popper will fire 10 times then stop.

Did you change out the 2 green lock targets on both sides of the entrance to no way out?

2 weeks later
#4412 10 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Boulder set has been arrived. While I appreciate the effort, primary color is far away from original color, secondary color is way far away, looks like a chocolate mountain... Am I the only one who expect a nice colors for this money? And no, I don't believe that the reference set was soooooo dark at Starship Fantasy, I have never seen an original dark set like this.[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Peter I do agree with you that for that kind of money I would have expected a closer match in colors. On the other hand mine were in such bad shape that I was just excited to have some replacements.

1 week later
#4420 10 months ago
Quoted from Cookizza:

Got our machine pretty much complete now, with the addition of the Starship Fantasy boulder set.
They are a bit darker than the originals but they light up incredibly well and I'm very happy to have paid the extra money compared to the European made ones which I saw recently on a machine and they look horrible.
We've added 3 extra lights using the comet matrix products:
1. A flexie one way natural white LED on the bigfoot cave boulder
2. A multi-head flexie on the back left of the back mountain range to light the left and middle of the mountains.
3. An Ice-Blue LED behind the mountain range that spills blue over the back left ramps (tough to see in pics but gives all the ramps a nice blue tint)
We also replaced the whirlpool red lights with a collection of blue and ice blue and swapped the red and yellow billboard jackpot indicator lights to white and blue which goes with the table so much better, IMO.
The mantis protectors for the lock targets do a great job but they do prevent the softer taps from lighting the lock. Worth it though.
Really the star of the show is the way these new boulders light up.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I really like how you lit the boulders up they really pop now!

2 weeks later
#4456 9 months ago
Quoted from ALY:

Yep, it was exactly that. I wonder how long the previous owner had it this way
It makes in quite unplayable.
Many thanks!

Its amazing how much crap you find wrong with a machine once you dive in and start shopping it out for 1st time. Don't be surprised if you come up with a bunch of other crap wrong. Wrong flipper coils, wrong fuses, and substituted parts to keep it running.

3 weeks later
#4482 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yep you are missing a little metal extender. Mine is "more" lined up that yours, but the extender isn't even in the hole.
Super horrible pic with outlined extender
[quoted image]

Yep mine also doesn't stay in the hole either and I tried to twist it to no evail but hey it works.

2 weeks later
#4496 8 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

they drilled right through the insert...so weird!
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is a trip i've never seen anything like this before. Obviously it can be disabled but then your left with a jacked up playfield.

1 week later
#4507 7 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

In case you don't like the reproduction boulder set (too shiny, too dark), here is my process to be closer to factory appearance:
Tools:
Red Scotch-brite pad (quarter sheet is enough for full set)
Toothbrush
Isopropyl Alcohol
Step 1: Remove shiny surface
Cut small pieces from Scotch-Brite. Remove the coat with circular movements.
Step 2: rinse the mountain with water (to remove dry coat particles)
Step 3: Remove excess paint
Use toothbrush and Isopropyl Alcohol. Of course the more you apply/brush, the more paint you remove. Factory mountain has very few brown paint on it.
I kept a bit more to reach a realistic look.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great work Peter. I've been waiting for you to post your process and you have done great work. Bravo!!!

#4522 7 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

davi I too have an older Mirco WH20 playfield (the one that has the missing white outline on lite and lock inserts) and my playfield is solid, Everything is mounted no dipping or mushrooming of the clear.

How many games have you put on that beautiful new machine of yours and did you have any problems pop up after the renovation was complete?

1 week later
#4540 7 months ago
Quoted from EStroh:

It's not the flipper that does it - it's Bigfoot. The coil that operates his "push" is correct: AE26-1200. Odd that it's happened twice in 3 days. I'm thinking that maybe the "log" is at the wrong angle it's launching the ball upward. Or perhaps Bigfoot just doesn't know his own strength?

I've had my machine for 2 years and it's had an insane amount of plays and it's never one done that. What it does instead that drives me crazy is sometimes when I load up No way out with 2 balls it will sometimes go to pop the ball up the wireform and the ball won't make it out. It then falls back down but the ball behind it has already rolled into position on the popper cup. Now it sits there trying to eject 2 balls which it can't do and the game goes into ball search mode. Then you have to remove the glass, grab a screwdriver and wait for balls to shoot up the wireform and grab it with the screwdriver. At this point your multiball is shot to shit cause it will eject the other ball as well. Very frustrating i'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this issue. I've taken the whole assembly out and fully examined it but have not seen any reason for the problem to persist.

#4542 7 months ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Have you checked the "cup" that the ball sits in on top of the coil's plunger? The cup should have 4 prongs that hold the ball in place. It is common for one or more of there prongs to break, resulting in the ball not being quite in the correct position when the coil fires.

Yep it's all brand new including the bracket. It doesn't do it every game just seems like its bound to happen when your having a great game.

#4543 7 months ago

This is why I had to replace the origi al assembly in the 1st place. Somebody clearly thought jb weld could fix anything. Clearly they were wrong. However now with a whole new assembly and coil bracket and coil it still F's up sometimes. I just deal with it when it happens cause I love the game.

20200104_140731 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#4558 6 months ago
Quoted from Marten:

I had the same problem but I got it fixed. In my game the ball was hitting a small metal guide that’s about 1x2 inches big that is next to the cup that fires the ball upwards. I could actually see a small wear mark where it hit. Bending this out of the way a little made everything ok.

Very interesting I will have to look into this. Im a little, no scratch that i'm a lot aggravated right now trying to track down a false switch. Anyone have the issue where you have say disaster drop and insanity falls lit and you hit it up disaster drop and it calls out insanity falls and advances the raft when it clearly shouldn't? Its also done it when other shit is lit and I hit something and it advances the raft also when it shouldnt. It's driving me freaking nuts trying to solve the Ghost in my machine.

#4561 6 months ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Are you certain that you are not completing the bounceback targets (with bounceback already lit) on the way up Disaster Drop OR you are hitting Disaster Drop for a multiple of 3 times?
Either of these things will "spot" a needed hazard and do what you describe (by design). Does this only happen when you are making the Disaster Drop shot, or does it also happen when you make other Hazards?

It has done it while hitting other targets as well. I've had No way out lit and insaniy falls lit and after hitting it up No way out it called out insanity falls and advanced my raft.

#4563 6 months ago
Quoted from Gnatty:

Go into switch test and verify they are working properly and not plugged in opposite.

Yep already did that as well and verified in switch edge that all switches registered.

Quoted from mbeardsley:

Are you certain that you are not completing the bounceback targets (with bounceback already lit) on the way up Disaster Drop OR you are hitting Disaster Drop for a multiple of 3 times?
Either of these things will "spot" a needed hazard and do what you describe (by design). Does this only happen when you are making the Disaster Drop shot, or does it also happen when you make other Hazards?

Is this only associated with disaster drop or any flashing targets?

#4565 6 months ago

I am currently running LH6 roms. I will definitely mess with it when I get home this afternoon. Now I am totally 2nd guessing myself about maybe hitting those bounceback targets. However it still doesn't explain why a different lit tarhet would be called out when another target is hit. Pinball, it's great when it is working!

#4567 6 months ago
Quoted from EStroh:

My two cents when solving a similar problem on my WH20: While testing switches during the "switch edge test" make sure that the correct switch number is associated with each switch you test (as found in the manual pages 2-42 and 2-43). I had an issue where switch 48 was registering as switch 68 due to a mis-wiring issue.

Well I can eliminate switches not registering or registering a different number than they are supposed too. Can also thank mbeardsley because it was definitely the bounceback switches being hit after "bounceback" was already lit. Apparently I wasn't paying attention to the fact that I had bounceback lit and continued to hit the bounceback switches. Anyway nothing to see here folks just a machine working properly. Thx for making me aware of my stupidity

#4570 6 months ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Glad that I could help another Missourian. I may live in Texas, but I was born in St. Louis (and went to school at Rolla).
Enjoy the WhiteWater...definitely my favorite machine.

Ahh cool another fellow Missourian. Yes definitely wh20 is mine as well and someday I will reach that damn elusive Vacation Jackpot.

#4579 6 months ago

I'm in the process of swapping out my boulders and when I took the rear mountain off I realized someone b4 me made some halfass bracket to hold the switch in place. By any chance would anybody happen to have a spare bracket so I could install this this switch properly?

20200125_150930 (resized).jpg
#4581 6 months ago
Quoted from Mank:

The original bracket screws on where the ramp is broken. You can either epoxy the ramp and hope it's strong enough to attach an original bracket there or get a new ramp but you're going to have to remove a lot of the upper playfield to replace the ramp to attach the original bracket or just leave it if it works.

Well new ramps are on the agenda so eventually i'm going to need that bracket

#4583 6 months ago
Quoted from razoraustralia:

You have the original bracket there already, the metal holder for the switch just screws straight into the plastic ramp where it is broken. New ramp and your good to go!

No that piece of metal is a knockout piece off the back of a card slot on a pc. Totally missing the original bracket

#4588 6 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

The piece on top of the knockout IS the bracket you're set.

Ahh I see it now that I looked closer at it. Good to know i'm not actually missing it. Thx for the help to all who commented

#4590 6 months ago

Been waiting a long ass time for this and am happy for sure. Really sucks though that you have to buy a pinsound setup to apy it cause those aren't cheap.

#4593 6 months ago
Quoted from Osvivalt:

Reached 1 billion points yesterday! Couldn't get the vacation jackpot this time, but still had a thrilling game.

I still haven't hit 1 billion yet, closest i've gotten is 942 million. If I didn't have this whole job thing to do I could spend more time playing pinball and get a higher score

#4603 6 months ago
Quoted from mandelbloom:

What a wh20 with a nice play field , new mountains , plastics and ramps ... and a color dmd...but no topper worth?

New ramps alone are $850 shipped and a color dmd is basically $400. No topper isn't a super big deal anymore as most don't have them. Obviously if you do have one then you can add about $600 minimum to the price of the machine. Considering lately that I have been seeing people pay $5,000 for a Fish Tales you can only imagine what a decent Whitewater with a complete setup would run. The days of picking them up for three or four thousand dollars are gone

2 weeks later
#4653 5 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Holy crap it’s alive![quoted image]

Followed your revitalization thread of that machine all the way through. That is an absolutely stunning machine and you should be super proud of the work you did on it.

#4655 5 months ago

My score wasn't the greatest but this was a new high for me. One day I will get that elusive vacation jackpot also!

20200217_143016 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#4734 4 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Could someone tell me if the Disaster Drop switch is the one visible in the upper LH corner? I am not registering a lot of loops through here. Thanks.

Dip a Q-tip in some alcohol and clean the optos at the entrance to disaster drop. Then go into switch test and test those optos and see if they are registering and then also check the exit switch on disaster drop

1 month later
#4848 3 months ago
Quoted from CWiehler:

I just got VJ for the first time...no one in my family really gives a crap and I had to tell someone. Figured you guys would listen!

Congrats i'm still trying to get it. I thought I finally had it the other day but then I screwed it up.

1 month later
#4952 75 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

What would you say is the value of a White Water with playfield damage at 3 noticable spots: 2 near Lost Mine and one just above the shoot again insert.
Also the 8 boat insert has a spot.
Cab is faded and touched up. (Needs new decals)
Topper is missing the dome (for sale at €140 near me) but rest is complete.
As far as seller says: ramps, plastics, boards and dms are in good shape.
It plays well according to the add.
Thanks for your advice
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What is a game worth? It's so hard to say these days. I think people have more money than sense anymore because the prices people are paying are obnoxious. I was literally set up to buy a couple machines yesterday and if I hadn't been there to see it with my own eyes I would not believe that this truly happened. A guy came in to an estate sale I was at and saw a Firepower that actually I was going to buy it did not work and this guy literally threw down $3,000 for it. It's like my dad used to say there's an ass for every seat. I was absolutely amazed how uneducated someone could be to lay down that kind of cash for a non working game thats really only worth about $1500 when fully functional.

#4981 70 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

I have 2 options on White Water machines right now and both are at the same price, would like to have advice.
Would you rather have:
Game 1= 1 side faded, multiple switch errors, 1 scratch on playfield near lost mine, left ramp cracked trough the middle and playfield (everything) very dirty but does have topper.
Or
Game 2= new decals, playfield has wear in front of lost mine, no topper

Definitely game 1 because it has the OG topper which adds a bunch of money to the net worth.

#5000 68 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

I think chrome looks the best, DO NOT DO WHITE. I picked up a beater that had a black playfield. Ended up cleaning up nicely.

Yeah I totally agree the Chrome does look best overall. I do not mind when the legs are powder-coated I think it gives it just a little flair and it doesn't become overwhelming and take away from the game.

1 week later
#5027 61 days ago

MotherF..... all I had to do was light the "I" in river and then lock ball 3 and I would finally have made vacation jackpot. Instead I got a damn SDTM ball drain. One of these days I will get it... Ughhh frustrating for sure.

#5029 61 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

You weren't aiming for the I target were you?
Suck though...so close!!

Shit who knows! I was so excited I mis-hit it and it hit the left green target and came straight back like a rocket down the drain.

#5031 61 days ago
Quoted from Marten:

That sucks, but it will be even more fun when you do get it!
Btw. I never shoot for the RIVER targets. Too dangerous.
Just collect the letters by lighting the inlanes when the ball passes. My game is set up (by me ) that when the ball comes out of the goldmine it almost always goes up the right inlane and back down so I get two letters for every whirlpool I shoot.

Yep I normally do that as well but I just couldn't help myself. I tried to go for it and well I struck out. All good though I love this game and will eventually get it.

2 weeks later
#5061 48 days ago

I've got low bounce blue on the flippers, went with orange post sleeves at insanity falls entrance and blue everywhere else and white on slings. No Led's either I kept mine El-Natural.

#5066 46 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Would redo the flipper while it's apart if needed!

I would also change out the coil sleeve in bigfoot coil while that area is accessible.

3 weeks later
#5145 22 days ago
Quoted from zene10:

So I took a look at my WW and WH2O and discovered neither one had a one way gate.
So time to make some. In case you never seen the Marco kit (12-WS-KIT, wire bending starter kit), the jig is useful for making your own gates and other wire forms.
Not the most elegant gate for WW but it works.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Well you incentivized me to look and i'm missing mine also. I wonder now how many of us have actually been missing the gate and never even noticed.

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