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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



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#1860 4 years ago

Just picked up mine over the weekend. Still packed away until I can make room in the Gameroom, and the topper has been stowed away to keep my curious cats from getting to it.

Really looking forward to getting it set up!

image_(resized).jpeg

1 week later
#1902 4 years ago

Really nice find, Arcade. I'm jealous!

Speaking of ROMs, does anyone have any experience with using the home Roms? Are they a significant update to the latest revision of the standard Roms?

3 weeks later
#1965 4 years ago

Quick question for anyone who might know: What are the sizes of the post sleeves used in this game? I'd like to order a few colored ones, but I'm not sure what size to get.

2 months later
#2062 4 years ago

Does anyone know if the LH6 home rom has a provision to change the whitewater multiball restart time? I feel like it should, since after a multiball, the game give the player 20 some seconds to restart the multiball--which in my opinion is hardly a challenge. I've dug through the menus, but I haven't found anything that I could find that would change that, unless I'm missing something else.

#2064 4 years ago

Hahaha, I'm a pretty lousy pinball player, so missed jackpots are a staple of my style.

But yea, it's got a restart. If you miss the jackpot, and drain 2 balls, it re-lights "no way out" for a multiball restart. Default is 20 seconds, apparently, which is WAYY too much time.

#2086 4 years ago

Another quick question for anyone who might know. The kickback plunger broke, and I'm looking for a replacement on marco. The manual specifies part number A-13270.

Marco has these 2 available:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-13270

and

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

In the latter's description, it says that it is compatible with the former's part number. Does it matter which one to get? For what it's worth, the one in my game that broke has a black plastic tip. Just curious to know if there is any meaningful difference to these two items.

#2132 4 years ago
Quoted from DB62:

I have the "HOME ROM" L6 and I thought that once you get to "RIVER CLASS 3" it is supposed to be SAVED at that, even when you drain your ball

That's not part of the LH-6 ROM revision. The only thing that particular ROM does, in relation to the river class system, is that it holds your river class only if the bonus is held to the next ball. Otherwise, the river class resets after each ball, regardless.

Edit: Be aware that the game will remember your river class if you reach class 6, so that it is slightly easier to get the vacation jackpot.

#2152 4 years ago

If anyone wants to actually go to Wet Willies, it's an alcoholic slush bar in Atlantic City:

Wet Willies.jpg

1 week later
#2173 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

What things should I look at and double check , problem areas, ramp cracks ?

Playfield planking seems to be sorta common on this game for some reason, look out for that. Also, the clear plastic part of the ramps located *just* behind the light lock standups tends to get beaten up and crack. It's not the biggest of deals though, since you can buy metal protectors to hide the damage.

Checking the ramps and boulders is a biggie. Replacements are costly. Often the "boulder garden" boulders are broken or damaged. Again, replacements are tough to find, and again, costly.

Someone mentioned to me when I was buying mine, to look out for matching standup targets. Since they're the "3D" type, they tend to break, but not often replaced with the proper style.

Look for lost mine kickout damage. Usually, there's playfield burn somewhere around the river class lights where the ball slams into the playfield.

Finally, check the upper playfield where the VUK drops the ball behind the upper right flipper. Cliffy makes a protector for this area, but it's usually beaten to hell and back on a lot of games.

#2179 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

Are all Whitewater playfields diamond plate ?

Yep. They're all Diamond plate.

Quoted from golfingdad1:

Was it originally painted or a decal ? And is the blue darker than funhouse or the same ?

I think the cabinet art was originally silk screened, but I'm not 100% sure though. I couldn't tell you about the blue, but I've noticed that faded White Water cabinets have a slightly yellowed looking bigfoot, where he should be brown.

#2185 4 years ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

I call BS I think he didn't like my question about possible planking on the playfiled.

Hard to say. It is a pretty hot title. Easy to sell, and people seem to be willing to pay a certain level of price premium for the game these days.

But there is a fair amount of planking in those pictures. Not too bad, as Jam_Burglar has said, but definite planking.

3 months later
#2291 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Is there anything that screws into the two side by side ones in this photo?

My particular game just has two machine screws that hold them down.

#2294 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

So just the standard screw with the little flange on it?

Yup.

Skins is probably right about the lack of screws holding it down. The whirlpool pretty much sits right on top of those posts, keeping the rubber down. Whoever shopped out my game last, though, put in two little machine screws in anyway, so I just re-installed them.

2 weeks later
#2334 3 years ago
Quoted from webdiddy:

I like the dynamic that comes with the logo and the waterfall in the background.

I agree. Even non pinheads looking at the shirt wouldn't get that it's a pinball machine. It's just too niche.

If you have just a raft, it just kinda looks like an old man with his dog are having a good time on an inflatable boat. With the logo behind, you know exactly what he's doing, and why it's so fun.

Nice job on the design, webdiddy!

3 weeks later
#2391 3 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

On another note, when I lock the first ball the message sometimes says "ball 3 locked" instead of "ball 1 locked"
Is this common?

Mine does the same thing every so often, but it never seems to effect gameplay. I don't think it's an opto issue. Maybe a bug in the code? I'm running the home roms in mine.

#2410 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

How does the tip of the bounceback look like?

Should just be black plastic that's lightly cupped on the end that strikes the ball.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767

#2419 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Is it possible to just get the tip?

Not that I'm aware. When mine broke, I tried to glue it back together. Even with epoxy, the force of the bounce back was too much, and it would snap off again.

You're best off just ordering a new plunger as a whole.

#2420 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

Are protections for mountains available? I see cliffys has a couple: are they worthed?

Personally, I haven't used the cliffy protectors. I just use clear washers. Here's mine:

IMG_5883.JPG

2 weeks later
#2442 3 years ago
Quoted from algrande:

I am looking at the OCD boards, specifically the GI one.

If you plan to LED the GI, I'd probably spring for the OCD board, since White Water uses TONS of GI dimming effects. Without it, the game would be a strobe/flicker fest.

#2463 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Don't think LED is available for awhile so that may not matter.

Huh, I could have sworn I've seen them before.

Op, I've seen both LED and LCD color dmds. Both are VERY nice, but me personally, I definitely prefer the LED. My only gripe with it is that you can see some color separation when they display white colors. Even still, I think LED does the best homage to the DMD than the LCD does.

#2475 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

Mine has two bubbles and of course I"m petrified of trying to repair it.

I wouldn't touch it. You can do far more damage than good trying to repair it.

That said, however, I've heard of people heating up a pin, and pushing it through the back of the plastic mount to create a pinhole for air to escape, then push the decal flat again. Personally, I'm more willing to live with bubbles than to have the potential to damage the topper even more.

1 month later
#2533 3 years ago
Quoted from pindude80:

Good idea or bad idea?

Have you considered just putting in LEDs in the place of the incandescent bulbs? I know that they don't have the "soft fading" effect that really makes the waterfall look good, but that'd probably be the best way to keep the heat off the topper.

3 weeks later
#2552 3 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

How difficult/time consuming is a shop on this game?

Not as big of a pain as people make it out to be. Everything is layered, so the order of which things are assembled/reassembled is important.

My biggest issue was getting the ramps to "click" in where they're supposed to, most notably insanity falls and disaster drop.

Do yourself a favor though, and don't skimp out on completely stripping the playfield and cleaning it as much as you can. Also, rebuild the upper flipper while the upper playfield is out of the game, and make sure the bulbs are replaced. They give you a cutout in the lower playfield to reach the underside of the upper pf, but it's *barely* enough room to work in.

4 weeks later
#2588 3 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

it turned out to be a faulty ribbon cable.

These ribbon cables seem to be the crux of many issues lately. My Earthshaker's displays went completely blank the other day, started diagnosing power issues, until I realized that a single ribbon cable seemed to work it's way just *slightly* loose, hardly noticeably loose. Reseated, and the game was good to go.

Thanks for the heads up.

1 month later
#2616 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Lightening flippers of course.

Took the words out of my mouth. My game still had the goodie bag included. Inside were lightning flippers. Looks like it was an operator option.

#2623 3 years ago
Quoted from Luppin:

beside spotting RIVER letters, do inlanes microswitches have other purposes?

The right inlane switch lights left ramp's "mega millions."

2 weeks later
#2637 3 years ago

If I recall, you can access the whirlpool lamps by pulling out the subway, and pulling the board out from underneath. Otherwise, you'll have to remove the entire upper playfield.

As for getting to the lost mine flasher, I don't recall there being an easy way to access it from the underside of the game, but it isn't terribly difficult to remove the insanity falls ramp to remove the boulder plastic.

1 month later
#2658 3 years ago

That area is a little busy. Let me know if you need additional pictures, or a focus on something more specific.

IMG_6792.JPG
IMG_6793.JPG

#2673 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

The red 'ring' is supposed to be red to match the RED "Whirlpool is lit" light up on the upper playfield sign.

Why not just stick a blue bulb in the whirlpool sign then?

#2681 3 years ago

The great red blue whirlpool war! Almost as bad as the great butter battle of 1984!

I get what you're saying though. Easy to see red for the sign, and red for the whirlpool, a nice cohesiveness to aide the player in making shots in a design that would be otherwise confusing--since most ramp paths are hidden away from the player. At least that's my perception.

But alas, I've had more people question me as to why there are red lights in my whirlpool. I say, "It's the blood of the man that fell overboard you failed to save."

In all seriousness, is there an on-the-record reason why Nordman chose red? I'd honestly like to know, because I feel like had he chose a blue sign cover and blue whirlpool lights, no one would probably care.

#2684 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

It's red, NOT blue, because red is the standard pinball light/insert color indicating a jackpot.

Excellent point, but the only time the whirlpool shot scores a jackpot is when you're playing big foot hot foot, and the "big foot jackpot" is routed through his cave, otherwise, they're just awarding the boulder garden awards. The boulder lights ARE red, however, lending to the cohesive nature of the lights.

I mean, either way, I don't really care. I'm just playing devil's advocate here. My whirlpool is red only because I was way too lazy to change them out when I shopped the game, and I didn't want to feel the wrath of TheLaw but I've thought about changing them out on more than one occasion. I just feel like the whirlpool lights are more of an atmospheric touch more than an actual indicator of something. They just kinda sit there... spinning.

At least it isn't as heretic as painting the boulders white and making it a snow theme, right?? I mean, who the hell wants to go rafting in the winter! Hypothermia: The Game.

#2707 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Is the left inlane supposed to have a plastic or not?

Stock White Waters do not have a plastic there. It’s just metal.

#2715 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

But your blue inlane lights look like shit

Lmao, I love how cavalier you are with your criticisms.

Quoted from Aflacjack:

I like it...and it is my game so they will stay.

Looks good though! Might I suggest new instruction cards? I used this design. It really spruces up the apron. http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Whitewater-V2

If you're going for the "everything's blue" route, these might be more your speed:
http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Whitewater-V1

#2727 3 years ago

Do it, Deacon! White Water has such cool dimming effects. My favorite being the way it dims as you lock a ball into no way out. Like you're paddling into a deep cave.

After the shop out, kick back. Learn to work the saxophone, and drink scotch whiskey all night long.

3 weeks later
#2750 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Re-assembling ramps and upper playfield, and don't have a photo of the position for this switch. Where does this mount?

Here are some pictures of the subway assembly. This should help you re-assemble it.

IMG_6896 (resized).jpg
IMG_6897 (resized).jpg
IMG_8002 (resized).JPG

(That last one is for the connector, should you need it)

#2754 3 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Is getting hot foot basically impossible.

It should also auto-adjust to the player's skill as well. At least, I believe it should if selected in the settings. My buddy's strategy is to nail those bigfoot targets to rack up easy jackpot points and go for camera craze to stack it with multiball (if you're really lucky, you can stack it with multiball and 5x the fun), but the result of that is it now takes an obscene amount of hits to start hot foot when playing casually. It took a ton of games to bring the number of hits down to something reasonable.

#2763 3 years ago

Playdium, I literally had the exact same problem re-routing my flashers. So, there should be one right below bigfoot (right under the solenoid plunger), the topmost one is one that goes under the right flasher dome under the mountains, and the last one is placed right under bigfoot cave next to the ramp.

Picture 1 is correct placement, picture 2 is correct as well, that third one in your hand is most definitely the flasher that goes right below bigfoot's divider mechanism.

Protip: Don't do what I did, which was mix up the connectors. I did that, and I had bigfoot cave flashing when a ball was plunged, instead of the upper right mountain. Cross reference the wire colors in the manual. It'll save you the headache of disassembling the upper playfield to re-re-route the cabling.

#2770 3 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Suicide Canyon Ramp

You mean Disaster Drop? I've never heard of Suicide Canyon used as a term in White Water before...

The Disaster Drop ramp is kinda tricky. I personally didn't have the particular issue that you're having with your game, but I did have an issue with the ramp exit not sitting far enough left in the game, so the ball would kinda dribble a little bit when exiting, leaving it to go straight down the middle. It's a little funky, but with a little finagling, you should get it to fit. Check the shape of your replacement against the original to make sure that the new one is properly shaped. White Water is absolutely dependent on everything fitting together perfectly.

1 week later
#2793 3 years ago
Quoted from Whitewater:

From memory, the only wedge type flashers in my white water are in the back box.

This is true. Bayonets are in the cabinet, and wedge flashers are in the backbox.

#2795 3 years ago
Quoted from hpetters:

Well thats really strange since the manual refers to inserts and also the led kit i recieved.

I believe that's because a playfield flasher works in parallel with a flasher in the backbox as well, flashing both at the same with a single transistor.

#2799 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

1) When I hit the shot when the whirlpool award is not lit, the ball goes down the whirlpool as it should but the vacation planner doesn't pop up on the colorDMD (I have the latest 3.3 firmware) before the ball kicks out of the lost mine

I believe that this is simply a ROM revision thing. Updating to later ROMs will show the vacation planner on an unlit whirlpool shot.

Quoted from per3per3:

2) When I hit the shot when the whirlpool award is lit, the ball goes fown the whirlpool and makes the flushing sound and then a whirlpool award mode starts but the introduction animation doesn't come up on the colorDMD. For instance, for each whirlpool mode (i.e. man overboard, spirit of the river, etc..), I'm supposed to be seeing the dmd animation of hte whirlpool with the name of the award mode inside of it...but I don't see that. The mode will start as usual but I miss the animation and callout.

There are 4 switches associated with the whirlpool. The first is right at the ramp entrance. The second is towards the back behind the rear boulders. The third--an opto--is right below the cone of the whirlpool (that's what gives the flushing sound), and the final fourth (another opto), is right below the lost mine kickout. Make sure that all the switches are operating correctly with a ball. Sometimes they get funky and do weird things. It took me a while to properly adjust the ramp entrance switch.

Quoted from per3per3:

3) When I'm in the whirpool award mode, and hit the whirpool shot successfully, I'm supposed to be seeing the 5 Million dmd animation for each successful shot but don't often see it.

Maybe a ROM thing? I honestly never noticed this. For the record, I am running home roms in my game. I definitely recommend them.

#2802 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

I'm not getting any credit dots, but that probably doesn't rule out any of the other three switches.

Just because you're not getting a credit dot, doesn't mean the switches aren't flaky. Sometimes they can work intermittently, but in doing so, they work just enough to keep the credit dot away.

Quoted from per3per3:

When you say "ramp entrance," you're referring to the bigfoot bluff ramp entrance where the ball is diverted by bigfoot...right?

I'm referring to the switch literally right at the base of the ramp with the swinging gate. It pulls out as a unit, with insanity fall's ramp entrance switch. They're finicky to adjust.

1 month later
#2831 2 years ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

What are things that bug you about the game or things I should look out for that are problems.

Check for cracked ramp entrances behind the two green lock targets, lost mine lockout wear, playfield dimpling on the upper playfield right where “no way out” VUK kicks out, and the condition of the boulders. You can still buy the ramps, but properly colored boulders are next to impossible to find right now.

I have what I consider a midsize collection, and white water has plenty of staying power. It may not be as deep as AFM or MM, but it’s not an easy game to finish, and fully completing the game in its entirety and collecting the vacation jackpot is damn near impossible—but it has among the best “endings” in all of pinball, imho.

6K seems high to me for this game. I paid just under 4K for mine a couple years ago, and sometimes I still think I may have overpaid—though mine was unshopped.

#2836 2 years ago

**thelaw's opinion on blue LEDs intensifies**

#2843 2 years ago

Agree on the Creature vs Wh20 sentiments. I've got a White Water, and my buddy has a Creature. While both fantastic games, White Water is deeper, more complicated, has more shots, has better music (my subjective opinion), and is just an all around better gaming experience. Creature is classic, and has an unbelievable art package, but it just feels lackluster by comparison.

2 weeks later
#2864 2 years ago

Yea, I’ve heard the capacitors on the motor board a prone to leaking. If it’s bad enough, it can damage the chip on the board as well.

#2875 2 years ago

There’s no “stock” metal protector there as far as I know.

1 week later
#2890 2 years ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

That right outlane centainly is troublesome. I can’t seem to nudge out of it.

I think that's kinda part of the game's allure. For example, I usually try to drop catch the ball on the right flipper once it's shot out of the lost mine, but more often than not, the ball zooms up the right inlane, and right around and out through the right outlane. I know other games do this a lot, but White Water does it so much since the ball is always kicked out of the mine. When another game does that to us, my buddies call it "being white watered."

I think with the left outlane having the kicksave kinda compensates for the voracious right outlane, so I don't mind it so much.

#2896 2 years ago
Quoted from Scarby:

Well here's mine.

Screen Shot 2018-02-01 at 7.28.14 PM (resized).png

Quoted from Scarby:

Put in the white mountain kit

Screen Shot 2018-02-01 at 7.28.23 PM (resized).png

Quoted from Scarby:

and changed Bigfoot fur

Screen Shot 2018-02-01 at 7.31.57 PM (resized).png

1 week later
#2915 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

They make LEDs but I haven't met too many people that prefer them over regulars.

LEDs in the topper are horrendous. Even more horrendous when someone puts in blue ones. It makes the whole topper look like a rave party with people taking way too much flash photography.

Stick with incandescents, chalkup. They give a much smoother “waterfall” illusion.

2 weeks later
#2937 2 years ago
Quoted from Stormtrooper:

This is mine and it doesn't look to neat.

The switch is normally screwed into the ramp itself, but it’s almost always broken to bits. Looks like someone attempted to fix yours by riveting it to a piece of metal first.

2 months later
#2983 2 years ago
Quoted from rdbronko73:

I can tell you that the lettering on the upper playfield is a little off compared to the original.

I've noticed this too on games I've played with it installed. Still, the clarity and crispness of the inserts and clear coat all definitely make up for it.

2 months later
#3026 2 years ago

thewool, if I recall correctly, that ramp opto entry can be finicky because the optos are positioned on the outside of the ramp. It could be as simple as having to pull the ramp and clean it so that the optos have a clear shot through the plastic.

2 months later
#3314 2 years ago
Quoted from Mikonos:

I hope you like!

Really great! How do they look backlit? Also, are you selling these?

1 week later
#3324 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Is this a cardinal sin?

In the home? I'd argue it's probably better than having the tub on. As long as you don't have any curious cats that'll jump up there and potentially damage it, I think going tub-less is a good thing: No heat buildup, no waterfall bubbling.

#3333 2 years ago

I’ll echo the other sentiments given by others here. LEDs in the topper look like absolute garbage. You lose the whole waterfall effect.

#3336 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hot or cold garbage?

Haha, let’s call it a hot dumpster fire. It’s doubly cringey when people put blue LEDs in the topper. Holy smokes does it look bad. Looks like a blue strobe light paparazzi party up there.

2 weeks later
#3398 2 years ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Bought the machine for my fiancé, she absolutely loves this game!

Ha! I was in the same boat. Got the game because my fiance is a huge outdoorswoman. Loves rafting, boating, camping, all that stuff. I honestly never played White Water prior to buying mine. I just thought it would be a theme both she and I would enjoy.

#3416 2 years ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Congratulations and welcome back. Still find it completely incomprehensible that we can go to the moon and beyond but for some reason we can't recreate [...].

I say that about my ice maker in my freezer whenever it breaks, which happens at least once every month or so. But what makes my broken ice maker really special is how instead of breaking and simply not making ice, the machine just keeps dumping water into the tray until it overflows out onto my carpet in the middle of the night or when I'm at work. It's a delight.

#3461 2 years ago

According to the thread, it’s still in the works. Who knows if it’ll ever come to fruition though.

The links to his samples sounded pretty incredible though. I do hope it’s released.

#3465 2 years ago
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:

Been doing a bunch of pinside searches and really only came up with the Indiana Jones thread that you know who shut down....

Here’s the link. You can read the saga unfold. He who shall not be named also makes an appearance, citing some B.S. copyright claims.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/white-water-reorchestration-for-pinsound-and-warren-davis

1 week later
#3504 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

And the whirlpool I'm kinda up in the air about

Blue makes sense, but red is what the designer intended. Since there's a ton of interesting ramps and twisting that's tough to keep track of, the red bulb in the sign at the whirlpool entrance gives the player a clear direction, since there are red bulbs in the whirlpool as well. It makes everything a lot easier to follow.

And the whirlpool lamps aren't just there for show either. Each one will stop blinking (and stay lit) during the Ride the Whirlpool mode to tell the player how many are left to complete the whirlpool without having to look up at the display.

Also, theres a red flasher dome under the whirlpool.

I assume red was chosen because it stands out against the blue well. Technically speaking, blue's complementary color (the color that has the most contrast to blue) would be orange, but orange probably wasn't a common color bulb condom at the Williams factory, so the next closest color, red, was used.

I honestly don't see any reason you can't use blue (bracing for TheLaw's wrath here), so long as you also change the color of the bulb in the whirlpool sign to match. However, if you really want to make the whirlpool stand out as much as possible and experiment a bit, try using orange LEDs and an orange flasher.

#3506 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

As usual I have included many cute emoticons showing it's not that big of a deal and it's all in fun.

Lol, I know dude. I’m busting your chops as well. It’s tough conveying stuff in text, you know?

I have noticed that those contrasting colors they were going after, using red flash domes and such, might actually look better as being orange in games like white water and Whirlwind. Yellow would look good too.

Anywho, Blue insert/lamp stuff definitely wasn’t common back then. And when it was used, it aged pretty terribly. Lamps under an aged blue insert look like faded garbage. So maybe it’s a good thing that it’s rare.

1 week later
#3523 1 year ago

Just installed Moto-Bone's Bigfoot Bluff ramp guide, as I was also having trouble with ball hangups. I also had cracked switch tabs on my ramp. Eventually, I replace it, but I can at least delay it, since the ramp guide does a good job at holding the switch in place. It took less than 5 minutes to install, and while I needed a bit of finagling to get everything lined up, I was eventually able to get everything screwed down. Definitely recommended if your game is having hangups under the boulders!

IMG_9240 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3530 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Do you have a link for that?

Just contact moto-bone directly here. Last I spoke to him, he made a bunch, so hopefully he still has some available.

Despite what others have said (and I do genuinely appreciate their advice, despite “throwing money at the game”), his plastic also solved my issue of having the switch bracket being broken off the original ramp, since it has holes for mounting the switch as well. Ramps are pricy, and my OCD wouldnt have allowed me to replace just the one ramp for the sake of mounting the switch bracket. I killed 2 birds with one stone, and it’s been performing flawlessly since.

#3539 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Any other recommendations to do while I have it torn down this far?

A couple of things you'll really want to focus on, from my (albeit limited) experience: The first, is rebuild everything on that upper playfield as perfectly as possible while it's out of the game. They give you a cutout on the main playfield to reach the underside of the upper playfield while it's installed in the game, but it's SUPER tight, and nearly impossible to do any real work, other than changing out a lightbulb. Grab a cliffy protector for the VUK ball drop location too while you're at it. Not sure if you've got a smooth surface there, but there's often a divot, and the cliffy protects and eliminates hangups there.

Also, double and triple check the operation of the ball lock/trough mechanism for "no way out;" optos included. It has a habit of cracking, and again, full access to it requires taking apart the whole upper playfield. Also, pay extra attention to the VUK back there too. It's probably the most heavily used mech in the game.

Putting those mantis ramp protectors behind the ball lock standups is a good idea, and while you're at it, buy a couple of target spares. They get hammered. I've already blown through 3 of them. The boulders also take a beating. Get boulder cliffy protectors in while you can as well.

I know this is more of an aesthetic preference, but try to avoid the temptation to place LEDs in the GI for this game. No other game (except maybe BSD during attract mode) uses the dimming feature as much as White Water does. The playfield GI is divided into thirds (lower, middle, upper), and animates in sync to the playfield lamps a TON during gameplay. If you gotta have LEDs, you gotta get GIOCD.

Hope this helps!

#3541 1 year ago

Yea, normally when it comes to LEDs, I'm more of a "different strokes for different folks" guy, but White Water is definitely a game I'd be adamant about telling people to either use GIOCD or incandescents. In the topper, there's no substitute. You really have to use incandescents. The waterfall effect depends on it, and the OCD board doesn't work with the topper lamps.

Some other odds and ends I've run into: Bigfoot's hand diverter 100% depends upon the ramp entrance gate working properly. There's a few more switches in-line, but that first switch is what tells bigfoot to divert to the whirlpool. I spent way too long trying to figure out why my bigfoot wasn't diverting properly after my shopout.

The disaster drop entrance opto shines through the outside of the ramp. You're probably not going to run into issues now, but down the road when the ramp starts to get dirty, the game might throw up some flags.

If you already don't have home roms for the game, I recommend it. I know some people say that it makes advancing the river class too easy, but I don't really think it does. The game is still tough as nails to get to class 6 in a single ball. Plus the home roms add some more cool lamp effects and a ball save for a more refined, more modern experience--especially helpful since on a full plunge, the ball will go straight down the middle almost every time. It also clears up some bugs, and adds more of a grace period for the secret passage and that rightmost switch next to the pop bumper nest (so you don't get a credit dot as frequently in the home environment).

#3544 1 year ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

In the original ROM you only got that show and music after a very high scoring game.

Wow! I honestly had no idea that was a thing. That’s honestly a shame... perhaps even enough to make me try my original roms again.

Quoted from mbeardsley:

The two different linkages result in different amounts of flipper travel, so it would seem to be important.

So, my game is a HUO game. Bought it from a heart sergeon who bought the game brand new for his kids back in 1992. He never did any work to it, and the flippers original to the game were the tapered kind (A-10656).

However, when I rebuilt my flippers recently, the kit came with the rounded (A-15847) from Marco. I honestly didn’t think much of it. I just thought it was the updated part. To me, the game plays pretty much the same. I can’t notice a decernable difference. I think you’re fine either way. But if you want to be 100% original, go with the tapered kind.

1 week later
#3563 1 year ago
Quoted from RGAires:

A friend have a whitewater with these colors, im wondering if this is a pre-prodution
other than that the playfield seams in good conditions but the color diferent

Do you have more pictures? I believe the sample playfields have blue "RIVER" lamp inserts, a dark blue gradient under the ramps in the back (behind the secret passage), and the upper playfield lacks art behind the flipper.

It's possible it's just an early playfield, without the gradient or blue RIVER inserts as well. In that case, the other difference (besides the shorts color) would be the lack of artwork behind the upper playfield flipper.

#3608 1 year ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Is the skull mountain mod worth the $100?

Personally, I don't think so. The game is already PACKED with mountains, and adding more just blocks things and clutters up an already tight playfield. I'm also not a fan of how it blocks the player's view of the insanity falls shot. Just my 2 cents.

2 months later
#3926 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Anyone know the formula for WW blue paint?

My understanding is that the radcals eliminate the need to paint anything. But you can always buy the radcals, and bring them to like a Sherwin Williams or other paint shop, and that have that special color analyzer where they can exactly match the color you want.

1 month later
#4037 1 year ago

White Water and BSD are two games I highly recommend keeping the GI incandescent. They're the two games that use the GI dimming feature really extensively. Definitely more than other WPC games I've played. If you MUST use LEDs, definitely go with the GIOCD board.

#4052 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Rad cals look awesome, looking forward to giving that a try.

Let us know how it goes! I got rad cals for my AFM, and I'm a bit nervous to install them.

#4062 1 year ago

Pinball life has the best "match" to the original targets that I've found in terms of color. Marco has decent ones, but you have to assemble them.

2 weeks later
#4102 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Man, this game is a bear to shop

It's a pain, but far from the worst game I've shopped. Just be cognizant of the order in which you remove things in, and everything else will fall into place. I can't tell you how many times I had to take the upper playfield back out because I forgot a screw, ramp entrance, or other small little thing. Just make sure you really clean out the backside of the game, because you'll never want to tear it down again to get back there in the future!

I find System 11 games to be FAR worse to tear down. Seems like William's was just starting to figure things out back then. Good luck, it'll be worth it!

6 months later
#4501 11 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Just sharpie the numbers on both sides of the plastic connector.

Also a good idea.

Though using bright painters tape makes it way easier to find the connector ends in a huge sea of wiring. I can't tell you how much time I waste looking for them when I don't tape them off.

1 month later
#4648 9 months ago

Finally got the vacation jackpot tonight playing with friends. What a rush!

#4661 9 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

Is that normal?

As far as it operates in my game, no. Bounce back only fires in-game, when lit, and the ball hits the switch.

2 months later
#4826 7 months ago
Quoted from onemilemore:

how true to form are we talking?

As true to form as an emulation can really get. I’ve always found that digital versions of games are a little more predictable and easy than the real tables are.

Difficulty of the real deal can vary greatly depending on factors like the outlane adjustments and playfield angle. Either way, white water is a top notch game. Mine sits between an attack from mars and Addams family, and I wholeheartedly prefer playing white water to both. You absolutely will not regret the rental.

#4843 7 months ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

Also my game came with lightning flippers. I didn't think that was stock, but can anyone confirm?

Quoted from lpeters82:

The games all shipped with standard flippers installed, but inside the goodie bag were two lightning flippers.

Can confirm. My white water is a HUO example with the goodie bag still in the game that included 2 lightning flippers.

#4878 7 months ago

Does anyone have the CPR mirrored back glass installed in their game? My translight is scratched up and weirdly stained and I’d like to replace it at some point. I kinda dig the idea of a mirrored one, but I’ve been hearing reports of poor color reproduction on some of their recent backglasses. Curious to see some pictures or hear some opinions.

1 month later
#5065 5 months ago
Quoted from Billy16:

Does anyone who has taken the upper playfield off have suggestions as to what I might need to replace once I get going on this

Rebuild the flipper, and make sure all the insert lamps are fresh and reliable. There’s a cutout underneath to supposedly aide in doing maintenance without having to remove the whole thing, but it’s pretty much useless. Even reaching the insanity falls lamp is a PITA

5 months later
#5345 2 days ago
Quoted from J67ab:

Anyone have any feedback on them?

I’ve been waffling on getting one for months. Let us know how it looks!! My current translight has weird looking coffee stains on it (no clue how or why it looks like that) and I’ve wanted to replace it with a CPR one, but I’ve yet to hear anything about them. Looking forward to seeing yours!

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