(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by applejuice
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider marvin.
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#2920 1 year ago
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:

Thanks! Hybrid WW for sure!
If there’s a color difference, I can’t tell, and I, obviously, still have the original.

There are definite color differences. The band in the hat is white and should be colored. And the lock text by the green targets does not have the white mask, they are basically impossible to see. I think these were fixed on later runs from Mirco. But you have an older run since it has those errors. Pretty sure that's at least one more issue but I don't remember what it is.

5 months later
#3022 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Yrs I have a manual and have gone over it and rebuilt the pop bumpers and replaced the switch on each one also and am still having the problem.
Thx for the suggestion Davi will check those later on today.

the circled one on the top is stuck closed.

#3025 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Thk you Marvin i will definitely check it when I get home. Sure hoping thats what it is cause its driving me crazy.

The 2 circled switches are not polled like normal switches. When they put in the rubber between the pops to stop outlane drains they took them out of the "not hit in X" credit dot. If there is a dot for those two switches it would have to be a stuck closed situation. check the diagnostices for closed switched, then adjust afterward.

#3030 1 year ago

try taking out that ring. game play is quite different. it was added since there was a lot of pops to right outlane issues but in my experience that's not a huge issue. its a balancing act. get some nice inlane feeds with it out, a few outlanes losses, a few points off those 2 switched and less pop action. or leave the rubber in, get no outlane losses, no inlane feeds, no scoring on those small scoring switches, but better pop action.

3 weeks later
#3128 1 year ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

This game is kicking my tail...the cave kickout is hitting the metal ball guide and sending ball directly to bounce out. No chance of getting the right flipper on it to try and control. Only strategy I have now is to “bump” the game forward, with hopes of getting the ball up to the river targets on kick outs. That’s fine when it’s just one ball and I can focus. But when multiballs are going, it shuts them down in a hurry with drains down the bounce back.
Any suggestions? Where is that cave kickout supposed to be going to?

Standard fix is to drop a slightly less powerful coil in the VUK. one coil down in power will put it on the flipper. Your issue is common. If there was more play in the mounting you could turn the VUK slightly clockwise but there isn't clearance to do that.

#3151 1 year ago
Quoted from Davi:

[quoted image]

Missing mountain- good, skull mountain- bad. especially since the skull animation is triggered from a different area.

2 weeks later
#3212 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

anyone buy the 4” bear for left ramp? how did you mount it over ramp to cover switch. custom bracket ? not sure best way to do it. thx

best way to mount it is not in the game.

#3219 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

It just covers the ramp gates and switch cover...looks kind of cool.

eh, whatever its your game, but I wouldn't call it kinda cool.

#3233 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey fellow rafters need your help, the coin door interlock on a white water is the stacked double switch right? My had been pirated so can’t tell.
[quoted image]

there is an extra switch at the bottom of the door. did someone retrofit a different switch instead of the normal one usually located at the top? it appears the wires normally going to the interlock are attached to that non standard black switch at the bottom of the door frame.

1 month later
#3312 12 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Can't just hit it with the wire wheel?

Nah, why clean something functional when you can throw money at it instead.

3 weeks later
#3395 11 months ago

In my experience having the rubber ring out does not add significant right drains, but it does add some. There is very little pop bumper action with the blocking rubber out. Leaving the rubber in eliminates right drains from the pops obviously, but it traps balls in the pops giving a lot more pop bumper hits.

2 weeks later
#3500 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

thelaw your opinion, and by definition there will be no rainbows. And umm it's a water theme?? I can count the blue bulbs in this game on 2 fingers.
One can choose to be pessimistic or optimistic...

looks like 2 under the mountain and at least 2 in the background. Unless every surface those lights hit is blue, its gonna change the look of the art.

#3508 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Then in the words of goldmember "there is no pleeeaasing you." Sorry every single gi bulb in this game is not going to be white... So call it what u will, kinda funny how you clearly disregard any amount of work done to a machine because there is a blue bulb in it and now it's "shit". But like you said it's my machine and I'm definitely not seeking your approval. What a sinner I am to the pinball gods shame on me.
Point of clarification since you seem highly educated in this area... So all woz machines must Clearly be barf city in your book eh?

WOZ was designed with color, thats fine.

3 weeks later
#3527 9 months ago
Quoted from judremy:

A cheaper solution is to just take the third (right most) spacer out from under the existing ball guide. You then replace with a post ring rubber and tighten the guide down more. This brings the ball down lower and it will never be able to hit the switch. Problem solved. Total cost = $0. That ball guide is not necessary at all.

But you know everyone here loves to throw money at anything they think is a problem

1 week later
-4
#3577 9 months ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Curios: why there are 2 down votes on drfrightner game?

ugly as f@ck

#3580 9 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Well folks I'm pretty pumped the final MAJOR part for my restore is on the way... And just wait until you see all the chrome that is going on this thing [quoted image]

not a restore then. restomod- sure, restore no.

#3582 9 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hmm.. interesting semantics you offer... but your comment appears to have a negative connotation to it? Sorry if i'm taking it wrong.
But I'm still calling this a restoration. Just because I had a cabinet made does not change the fact that its a "restoration." Per your statement would then indicate any person doing a "restore" that used a new playfield, or any "new" parts for that fact would not be doing a restoration?... and I disagree with that.
The word restoration means restoring something to a previous or IMPROVED state. If you don't agree maybe email Webster

A restoration is returning something to its original state. That can be done using reproduction parts, no question. Using chrome parts is not original, therefore you are not doing a restore, you are doing a restomod. Semi restore, semi modification. It's a common term. Sure you could restore it to a chrome condition of someone else already chromed it. But you are not doing that. you're referencing original as the source.

res·to·ra·tion
/ˌrestəˈrāSH(ə)n/
noun
noun: restoration

1.
the action of returning something to a former owner, place, or condition.

#3583 9 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hmm.. interesting semantics you offer... but your comment appears to have a negative connotation to it? Sorry if i'm taking it wrong.
But I'm still calling this a restoration. Just because I had a cabinet made does not change the fact that its a "restoration." Per your statement would then indicate any person doing a "restore" that used a new playfield, or any "new" parts for that fact would not be doing a restoration?... and I disagree with that.
The word restoration means restoring something to a previous or IMPROVED state. If you don't agree maybe email Webster

oh if you are going to reference Webster, try to check it first:
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/restoration
: an act of restoring or the condition of being restored: such as

a : a bringing back to a former position or condition

: something that is restored especially : a representation or reconstruction of the original form (as of a fossil or a building)

oh heres restore also:

restore verb
re·​store | \ri-ˈstȯr
\
restored; restoring
Definition of restore

transitive verb

1 : give back, return

2 : to put or bring back into existence or use

3 : to bring back to or put back into a former or original state : renew

4 : to put again in possession of something


Nothing about "improved" which is a highly subjective measure anyway.

#3586 9 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Usually I'd agree with you, but Soulrider called him out on Websters so he welcomed it.

Only if Pinside is the only thing you've ever internetted.

Didn't even cherry pick the parts I quoted. The game will be fine with chrome. It's just annoying when people modify things and say they restored it. Some of the modifications might be better than stock, but that's not the point.

-2
#3590 9 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

restoration noun
res·to·ra·tion | \ˌre-stə-ˈrā-shən \
Definition of restoration
1 : an act of restoring or the condition of being restored: such as
a : a bringing back to a former position or condition : REINSTATEMENT
the restoration of peace
b : RESTITUTION
c : a restoring to an unimpaired or improved condition
the restoration of a painting
d : the replacing of missing teeth or crowns
2 : something that is restored
especially : a representation or reconstruction of the original form (as of a fossil or a building)
See 1c.. anyway, be the negative/pessimistic critical person all you want, and it's your god give right. Just know i kinda chuckle every time I see someone post a blatant negative comment -like marvin - when they had the opportunity to say something supportive or maybe even positive... takes more muscles to frown than smile, just saying.
FYI... NEVER did I claim I RESTORED the chrome or the cabinet, maybe you should read through some of HEP's "RESTORATION" threads that use new cabinets Marvin.

your initial post specifically stated it was a restore "the final MAJOR part for my restore" repro or restored original cab is irrelevent, it appears as a stock cabinet. "just wait until you see all the chrome that is going on this thing." This is not a restoration as chrome wasn't original. As I've said repro parts are fine in a restore, so your cabinet argument is a red herring at best. Chrome isn't original. its a mod. I know comprehension is hard.

who's frowning, I'm having a great day, feet up, rum in hand.

#3591 9 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Don't worry, at least you are doing something useful for this community (like your hints and ideas in your threads).
And we have to inform HEP asap, that his company is not anymore "full service pinball restoration company".

he doesn't do the plating, that's outsourced.

#3593 9 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

restoration noun
res·to·ra·tion | \ˌre-stə-ˈrā-shən \
Definition of restoration
1 : an act of restoring or the condition of being restored: such as
a : a bringing back to a former position or condition : REINSTATEMENT
the restoration of peace
b : RESTITUTION
c : a restoring to an unimpaired or improved condition
the restoration of a painting

especially : a representation or reconstruction of the original form (as of a fossil or a building)
See 1c.. anyway, be the negative/pessimistic critical person all you want, and it's your god give right..

you do know that 1c is in reference to attempting to improve the condition back toward original but not fully original state due to circumstances. i.e. removing the dirt on an old painting but not replacing missing paint. Its in an improved, from it's the pre-restoration, state, but still lacking from its original state. It does not mean cleaning it then deciding to change the dress from blue to green.

#3626 9 months ago
Quoted from Utesichiban:

Pretty sure that bear isn't going to obstruct anything. Why is it such a big deal to you if some of us want to add a thing or two to have fun with a game?

its not a big deal, its just a potential ball trap and it looks stupid.

#3659 9 months ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

This door
[quoted image]

The standard door was 2 slot, it could also be had with with DBV cutouts.

3 weeks later
#3754 8 months ago
Quoted from guido:

I cannot see the waterfall effect on my topper. Could the lights not be working the way they are supposed to do?

you're using LEDs. theres your problem.

#3758 8 months ago
Quoted from guido:You are right. I'm using leds but not on the topper just on the playfield. Do the leds on the playfield affect the behaviour of the lights on the topper?[quoted image]

It shouldn't have an effect. Wasn't sure on the LEDs up top, they seems to have some fade time like inc's but were really white like LED's. Oh shit, you got the wrong bulbs. I don't remember the right number but those are not standard 555's. 12v circuit if I remember, i don't have a WH2O anymore to check, which explains why they are so bright.

#3762 8 months ago
Quoted from guido:

I'm using 194 bulbs. So the bulbs shouldn't be the problem since the manual says that those bulbs are the correct ones.[quoted image]

In that case we've exhausted the simple things. I don' know why yours appears so bright. Maybe the control board itself has an issue. Like BoP's helmet lights, these are not GI or inserts. They have their own completely separate board controlling them.

1 week later
#3791 7 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Post a pic of the of the solder job on that switch.

Look at anything under that switch when the platform is up. There was a solder drip somewhere

1 week later
#3806 7 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

I'm in the process of trying to build my own lighted speaker panel. I don't want to run a wire down to connect to the GI to pull power up to the 6.3v comet led strips. I would like to pull riggt from the board and it looks like J103, J137, J132, J124 are all open headers. I was wondering if anyone knew if I could pull power from one of these or anywhere else off the board for the led light strips. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thx

Advice, don't do it, you'll just be adding glare to the glass.

#3808 7 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

There are a coyple real good videos i've found on youtubr on hiw to diffuse the light along with using dimmers from comet to control the amount of light that is emitted.

OK, lemme get this straight. You wanna add a bunch of (unneeded) light purely for aesthetics, then to fix the resulting glare issue, you want to spend even more to buy diffusers and dimmers to lower the light level to stop the glare that wouldn't be present if you didn't add the lights in the first place?

Ok, your game have fun. Just seems silly.

4 weeks later
#3942 6 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Yeah I know but I'm the one that has to live with the wife not you guys

Blue isn't "right" but its fine. It's a controlled light not GI. So it is only on when it means something. Its not a permanent change and won't make the game harder to play, like colored GI does.

#3958 6 months ago
Quoted from JimFNB:

I’m sure you saw this but just in case not ...
the lost mountain mod is in the pinside marketplace

The original is nice, the face one is stupid

1 week later
#3998 5 months ago
Quoted from Devinsupertramp:

White Water Whirlpool eject problems. My White Water that I had restored has had several big issues from the start. You all helped with the first big issue, but the second big issue I haven't seemed to figure out, if anyone has any advice on that, that would be awesome.
Two issues I have are both with the ball once it goes into the Whirlpool, it gets stuck near the very end, right before it gets to where it gets fired out. It gets stuck 90 percent of the time. I have photos of where it gets stuck. The other issue is with the game knowing when to eject the ball from the whirlpool exit. The moment I turn on the game it starts firing at the exit of the whirlpool. I have a video of exactly what happens when I power on the game.
I did a couple test on the switches as well, here's what it said, guessing that's one of the issues.
Whirlpool Popper 61 (A) - OPEN
Whirlpool Exit 62 - CLOSED
Whirlpool Right 63 - CLOSED
Any advice on how to prevent the ball from getting stuck down the chute from the whirlpool?
Any advice onto how to fix the exit from constantly firing when it shouldn't?
Here's a link to the whirlpool eject and what it does the moment I turn on the machine and the moment I start a new game. Thinks there's a ball there when there is not.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tppip52jjjun7dc/IMG_4059.MOV?dl=0
[quoted image]

I'm going to guess that you have repro ramps on the game. they are too thick. it can trap teh ball there in the subway. you'll need to shift it or cut back come of the plastic.

3 weeks later
#4027 5 months ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Added lots of mods, powder coated, sideblade, color screen, and many mods. Perfect playfield and 3D translite Lets go rafting.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's fucking hideous

#4029 5 months ago
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:

Well dont hold back, tell us how you really feel about it!

If I didn't hold back it would have surely been deleted.

#4032 5 months ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

I was thinking of putting RGB LED strips (both pointing up and down) under all boulders and then just play around with programming them to see what looks good.

this is super easy, other than white, it will all look like shit.

#4050 5 months ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Looks like Mirco fixed the coloring issues with the brim of Wet Willies hat etc.!

and the missing white on the lock inserts

1 month later
#4147 3 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Full fledged member this week. [quoted image]

fun game, and that one still got good color on the cabinet.

#4150 3 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Welcome! Great choice
I see LED on the chaselight topper, GE194 14volt 0.27amp 10mm wedgelamp are the ones great for the waterfall effect

ugh, and they are blue

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