Picked up a WH20 today, very happy to finally own one. Anyone have a front cabinet decal they have to sell?
Thx
(Topic ID: 57710)
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White Water
Williams, 1993
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Man, this game is a bear to shop, way too many ramps and hard to reach areas. I finished most of the top side, but didn’t remove all the back ramps, it’s just too much time. I flame polished the ramps I could get off, replaced all the rubber and cleaned as much as I could. Added warm white frosted leds to the GI. Cleaned the topper and replaced the lights. Tomorrow I’ll tackle the bottom, replacing coil sleeves, removing and cleaning the subway and tidying up whatever else needs it. Waiting on leds for the inserts.
Found a nice front decal and two head decals. Game will be real nice when it’s done, but I’m beat.
Quoted from woody76:Yes it is and also once of the most expensive if you have to start replacing ramps and stuff.
Luckily, everything is in tact and in great condition. No new parts needed.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Yes amazingly WH20 is one of the most expensive games to restore, I think the ramps alone cost me close to 700.00
I finished the bottom side shop yesterday, replacing the coil sleeves, replacing bulbs, cleaning the subway, much easier than the top. even getting to bulbs in the mini pf wasn’t that bad. The top side, ugh.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:I was thinking of doing something similar when I restore mine next month. Did you just use an LED strip?
Yes, you can run it up from the bottom of the playfield and then just lay the strip across the ramp. I clipped it to a GI socket down below the pf. Very easy.
Just finished working on my game and thought I'd share a few pics, a lot was done.
Cleaned and flame polished the ramps, new rubber, cleaned subway, new coil sleeves, warm white LEDs everywhere, mirror blades, color dmd, new front and head decals, rebuilt GI connector and header pins, painted the coin door gloss black, perfect play flipper rubber, external sub hookup, and overall cleaning and vacuuming. Game came out really well and plays perfectly...knock on wood.
IMG_20190617_194314 (resized).jpgIMG_20190617_194321 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190617_194332 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190617_194336 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190617_194341 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190617_194401 (resized).jpgQuoted from Blitzburgh99:Are you going to leave the clear plastic topper dome off of the top? I had mine off for a while and thought it looked good without.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Looks like he may have done that bcuz of needed clearance of the ceiling.
Well, I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I put 555s in there to replace the existing incandescents. Those who know the game, unlike me apparently, will know what happened next. Yep, melted leds. Luckily, no damage. I’m just waiting for 194 bulbs, incandescent!
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:looks great ..................except, I don't get the red led's on the mountains?
Was kind of drab back there, I like the look. It’s lit from underneath the mountains.
Quoted from freegame450:I think Yellow/Amber led strip under back mountains gives a more natural look.[quoted image]
I have yellow/Amber in 12v, may give that a try.
I haven’t had my game long, but coindoor interface board is nla. Ramps are available, I think most stuff is available. Others can chime in who are more familiar with the game. Go on Ks arcade or Marco to see what parts are available, eBay too.
1 week later
Just installed the latest home rom, which has the ball saver in it. Game boots into german, thought I was going to have to mess with resistors on the cpu to get it back to English, but just changing the language setting in the adjustment menu fixed it. Took me a while to find the setting as I don’t speak or read German,
Thanks to astill entertainment for the ROM, great service out of our northern neighbor.
4 weeks later
just installed a shaker from Pinshakers in my game, really nice effects, perfect game for a shaker. You can adjust when the shaker goes off between flashers and solenoids. I have mine going off on the insanity falls, big foot cave and the whirlpool flashers. a shaker is really a perfect addition to this game given that it's a rumbling rafting game!
Quoted from yaksplat:With the announcement of the pinsound one, i'm going to hold off until the re-orchestration gets completed and then buy it all at once. But i'm in no hurry
where is the info on the pinsound shakers? how is it powered and what triggers it? what's the price on it shipped to the US?
one of the benefits of the Pinshaker is it does not draw power from the game.
Quoted from jawjaw:Thanks. Looks awesome next to Fish Tales but need to sell Congo. Great game but need to sell it to clear some room. Looking forward to diving into Whitewater (pun intended). Need to shop it out with Comet leds, Titan rubbers, and fix a few minor things. Like to get ocd boards and colordmd but that might be for later.
The new shaker from Pinshaker is really nice on this game too,.if you are into shakers.
Quoted from JimFNB:Can you provide details? Hooked up to solenoids or flashers? Which ones specifically?
I’m planning to get the shaker and this would be good reference info, thanks.
You have a choice in the setup to hook to solenoids or the flashers. I chose the flashers set up. Whenever the insanity falls, whirlpool or big fit cave flashers go off, the shaker goes off. You can set it via supplied dip switches on their board to have as many as 8 flashers or solenoids trigger the shaker. It’s really a very nice setup. Shaker also has a motor control so you can set the intensity of the shake.
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Two questions for you folks.
1. What type of LEDs did you guys use in the topper? I put in 2 SMD COMETs which I have had good luck with everywhere and the shimmering effect didn't seem to work right. Also, after leaving them on for 2 hours, I smelled burned rubber and noticed the topper lights were no longer all working. I am going to have to look at the boards and connectors up there, but am curious as to what everybody else is using. I just got the correct bit so I can remove the topper without having to just shimmy my arm in there.
2. The ramp with "multi millions" on it in the far left isn't scoring correctly. When the yellow arrow is there, and a shoot a ball up the ramp, it doesn't register it, but still makes sounds when it hits the gate. The same thing happens when multi millions is lit. I have no credit dot and no switch errors. I'm really scratching my head on this one and would appreciate any help.
I have a bunch of used ramps and mountains coming over the next week along with a new topper dome and am really liking how the machine is turning out. I'm going from "heavy players" to decent.
Thanks!
Those are 12v bulbs, not 6v. I made the same mistake! You need 194 type bulbs, it's in the manual. I went with incandescent.
On the switch issue, I have a similar experience. The switches register in test mode with a ball and I can hear the sound during game play, but it doesn't seem to score.
1 month later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:You sir are my personal hero for the day. I had already started to remove the board when I got your message. I put everything back the way it was... and nothing. I reseated the ribbon cables and it magically works 100%. Thank you for your help getting my pin fixed.
Thank Zaza, he helped me with a similar issue on roadshow. Glad you got it fixed!
6 months later
Quoted from Davedigger:All the bulbs are blinking except one and it just stays lit the whole time. so its got power, just doesn't blink...There is a flasher in that dome in the boulders that you were talking about. thats what I thought at first too. Ill have to do the flasher test and see what it says, I didn't think to do that. Thanks
Maybe a bad bulb? Did you try switching them?
2 weeks later
was having an issue where kickout from the mine scoop was firing into the right flipper and going right into the left drain. It hadn't always done this and only recently started for some reason. After doing a bit of a search, I replaced the coil to a less powerful AE-12-2600. I had an extra one from my TSPP and just snipped the diode off. Works perfectly, much easier eject that goes right to the middle of the right flipper. Posting in case this helps someone else.
1 week later
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:The problem with LEDs in applications like that is they can really mess up some of the chasing effect due to the instant "on/off". The LED and GI OCD add-on boards address this issue with most of the game's lighting but I don't think these add-on boards will affect the whirlpool lights. I vaguely remember putting LEDs in mine but then switched them back to incandescent bulbs.
i'm about to install an led-ocd board in my game, but my whirlpool lights are still incandescent bulbs. can anyone confirm if these operate independent of the ledocd board.
Edit: I spoke to LEDOCD people, the whirlpool lights should be leds, not incandescents. Takes 5 minutes to change them.
1 month later
Quoted from TheLaw:No thanks, fine the way it is
The guy is an artist and wants to try something different. The original is nice, but I love what he did with the other translites and would be interested to see to see what he comes up with. I have offered my translite to him for measurements.
1 month later
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Speaker lights in WH20... Thoughts? anyone who has them, feel like sharing some pics?
I figure since mine is already rather blingy, why not go all out, lol.
Never seen them in a wh20, might be ok with blue or ice blue.
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