The decals look sun worn. Bigfoot seems to be yellow and not brown on the sides of the machine.
The decals look sun worn. Bigfoot seems to be yellow and not brown on the sides of the machine.
Wen I replaced my upper playfield plastic, I put a piece of foam between the VUK and the plastic to prevent damage to the new piece where the metal makes contact.
Quoted from jdpilot:
Howdy all, I've had my WH2O for over a year and it's one of my faves Got the missing mountain mod, rafts on the ramps, mountain light mod...really like the color DMD, hoping to snag that and a twisted pin new embossed topper.
However, mine never came with the waterfall light shield. Can ANYONE help me get this allusive piece? Been watching eBay, Bay Area amusements, Marco, and several other pin sites...nothing. Even if I had a crappy one, one of a couple machinist friends could make me a nice one, lol. Please help
To be honest, you could probably just put a couple strips of Aluminum tape on the top of the clear bubble and get the same effect. It basically reflects and disperses the light.
Quoted from dsuperbee:
Nope, that would not work. The embossed part of the aluminum (the part the twisted pins guys seem to almost have fixed) is really what makes the effect. If it was straight aluminum tape repro toppers would have been made years ago.
The Aluminum tape would go on the bottom of the "tub" that surrounds it, not on it.
I did sand and polish my ball guides along with the ball trough using 80, 150, 220, and 600 grit sandpaper. Gives it a rough mirror look. Need to do the lifts under the playfield (the ones it sits on when you pull it forward) next. Also added a playfield protector to it. Have not had a chance to play it as I am reassembling it from when I took it apart about a year ago.
I had the machine apart for a year since I decided to finish my basement while it was already apart. I added a playfield protector and replaced the GI in the pop bumpers. I used the Stern type of sockets with wires instead of metal leads. I also flame polished all the ramps and for the most part did no damage. The first one i did was the whirlpool one and it is very thin plastic at the base of ghe whirlpool.
Pics of the machine all lit up. I have to get better LEDs for the raft inserts. I plan to add spotlights above the slings to brighten up the center of the playfield.
With the home rom, the hold bonus you get from hitting Disaster Drop six times carries over. This is important as you then continue to build your river class. Without the home rom, it is harder since there is a bug that the hold bonus doesn't work. Also, you can get lucky and get river class 6 from the mystery. You don't need to keep river class 6, just get it at some point before you lock the third ball.
There are two sets of optos for the whirlpool once in the subway. There is one when the ball enters the subway which changes the animation to whatever whirlpool award is ready and then another when the ball gets to the VUK in the Lost Mine.
Quoted from urbanledge:
I'll wait till I upgrade my rom and see what happens.
Actually now that I think about it.
If you do a hard launch and the ball goes SDTM the ball doesn't get kicked back out.
you do get 5000 points.
must be a stuck switch/opto somewhere.
That would explain the ball search too.
If someone could do me a favor and post a pic of the switch test levels screen that'd be great!
Could be a bad diode too. I have this game and have been over it multiple times. You may want to look back at some old threads I made that mention some things to adjust that were bad out of the factory such as the ramp ball guide under the back mountain. If you don't adjust the height of the right-most spacer and replace it with something about half the size, you bash the heck out of the switch mount and will most likely break it (if it isn't already).
Quoted from urbanledge:
I ordered the spine chiller and watch out for the drop decals.
The watch out for the drop doesnt suit the plastic!
Looking at a few pics there seems to be 2 styles of plastic for the disaster drop .
2014-12-15 19.32.35.jpg 162 KB
I don't think there are two plastics. I think the way that is made, you need to flip the plastic vertically and then the screw holes SHOULD line up.
Quoted from MAJRob:
There are also protectors available that cover both sides of that ramp behind the green drop targets. That should bulletproof those vulnerable areas on that ramp.
You can get them here: http://www.mantisamusements.com/protector.htm
This page shows how they look: http://www.mantisamusements.com/wwprot.htm
Awesome for $35 and to cover the ramp damage.
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:
Yep, just remove the back mountains and it's right there. That area should have a clear plastic kidney shaped ramp cover with three screws and three black spacers. The last spacer should be replaced with a significantly shorter one. This will prevent the ball from hitting the microswitch and eventually breaking your ramp where the microswitch is screwed in.
Pinball Decals MAY make an alternative fix. I'm not 100% sure on this but I believe their "Bigfoot Bluffs Ramp Cover" is designed to cover the whole area so the ball never hits the switch and doesn't require the spacer trick I mentioned above. If you go this route doublecheck with them first. http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/WhiteWater_Page.html
I posted this years ago when I got my WH2O. It was something I read about on some geocities or some other weird blog. The site is no longer there, but the guy was smart. I made many tweaks based off his recommendations and the one you mentioned is #1 as that bracket takes a beating if you don't adjust the third spacer.
I had made a video a couple years ago on what needs to be done:
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:
That looks like it to me. Let us know if it fits/works. Judremy's method is first method I was referring to and it's the cheaper, more practical approach, but it does require you to find a new spacer (cut down your old spacer) and it does bend that plastic piece. That's the method I've always used and it works perfectly but the "Ramp Cover" you have there seems more user friendly and perhaps less invasive.
I used a small rubber ring as the spacer. It doesn't do much but tell you when you have screwed it down far enough. No support from it.
Quoted from Blackbeard:
Popped off the mountains (2 screws, that's it!!) and the switch was fine. Just needed a bit of adjusting).
Bigfoot is now turning and laughing at me everytime I sink a whirlpool shot. Damn great game. Got to Willy's last night. Set high score, which wasn't very high, but good for me.
Really thinking about a new set of ramps. Think it's a total keeper.
I would try flame polishing before spending money on new ramps. I did mine and was amazed how clear they are now.
Not sure on that, but Cliffy does make an extended protector for the left side of this ramp that I highly suggest:
Quoted from Blackbeard:
So it was the spring.
Mine had a red one installed. The one ordered was the correct one. Much less stiff.
Another question: noticed no spring in my lock down lever. So I ordered one, but am not seeing holes to attach it to. Now wondering if there isn't supposed to be one.
I think this was before the spring was added to the part.
Quoted from mac622:
Do you guys align your upper flipper against metal guide or do you align it with the roll pin in the PF? I didn't notice the difference when I was tearing it down but when reassembling it last night if I align it with the roll pin the bat sticks out about 1/4" from the guide whereas before it was snug against the guide as in the picture. I'm sure this makes a big difference with the ramps shots so curious what you guys find is the best alignment? If this wasn't such a PITA to adjust once the mini PF is installed I would test it out to see what works best but since that's not the case I'd like to get it right before putting the mini pf back in. Thanks
UPF bat.jpg 233 KB
I have mine really far forward and it makes the skillshot much harder. Curious what others say. I would think you would want it all the way back.
Quoted from TheLaw:
Exactly...you need to change out the right.
On mine, I have both lower flippers as the blue 11629 ones. I can make all the shots fine with both flippers, so I don't know if I need to change the left one to a stronger coil. The right one has trouble making the Spine Chiller ramp at times. Advice?
Quoted from PjM:
I just ordered the Lh-6 ROM. I have the L4. I did not see much difference between the L4 and the L5 but there looks to be a lot of changes to the Lh-6! Is this the preferred choice with WHO2!
It's the one with everything working correctly (including the bonus hold) and the cool light show after the game.
Quoted from mwong168:
The previous owner told me my WH20 ain't going to win any beauty contests and then said BTW FYI the upper playfield has a metal plate cut into it for the VUK ball drop. At first I was like "oh crap" and since I knew the game had passed through the hands of a Quebec collector, who I won't name, but he is known to be a hack artist when it comes to fixing games. When I finally saw it in person I was like that doesn't look too bad and way too clean to be a hack done by this unnamed person
I spent the better part of an hour last night removing his awesome LED kit.
16897599490_2ccae7418d_c.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
I replaced most of the GI back with incandescent bulbs and left the CT blue super brights behind the RIVER stand up targets because it looks cool and doesn't wash out the game's colors. I will make some sort of shield to address the blue light bleeding on the left side there and plan on adding some lighting up the mountains behind Big Foot there.
16897376498_b98d1ae089_c.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
I left the inserts with LEDs for now to see how it looks and how distracting it is during game play.
Part of your GI is out. Should be a bulb in the back left on the lower playfield and two bulbs behind Bigfoot in the upper at the very least.
If you don't have the "missing plastic", you owe it to yourself to visit this thread:
It is a plastic for the lower left inlane similar to the one in the lower right.
Quoted from billsfanmd:
Last few tweaks. Upper flipper shooting right side ramp to Whirlpool I am getting rejects half the time. It's hitting the metal switch bracket mounted on top of ramp. The ramp def generates some ball lift. Any solutions?
You need to lower the height of the last spacer on the piece that brings the ball down so it doesn't strike the switch mount:
Really simple as you can get by without a spacer there at all. The ball will never push down on the ball guide, only up. The spacer is just there so you don't screw down too far.
Quoted from pin2d:
Reason I'm asking is that he needs some left arm work done (it appears...to be amputated). I'm wondering if there is a way to lower him and/or fluff his hair a bit at the same time.
It should not be hitting. Check if the set screw on the back of his head/neck is going into the head or under the head.
I got mine with black legs. For a while, I didn't know that they weren't correct as it was my first pinball machine when I got into the scene. Had not played pinball for years.
Please note the pictures below are when I first got the machine (I also had just moved into the house five months before this).
The lights surrounding the whirlpool flash when the whirlpool mode starts and then each ball you get in there lights one.
I attached the bear using some black zip ties on the existing bracket. Makes it easy to remove or reposition.
Quoted from Fifty:
Thanks. I'll check it out.
Another issue that has reared it's head on my WH2O has to do with the sound. I'll be playing a regular game and hit a target and the Whirlpool Challenge music will start playing. If I lock a ball or start another mode the music will switch back. It's very random. Sound ROM maybe???
Sounds like a loose/dying opto or maybe a bad diode that is causing an opto to trigger. Maybe the one in the bottom of the whirlpool subway at the entry side?
Quoted from Mbecker:
Curious as to an opinion.. I just picked up a WH20 in good players condition. The playfield has that sort of slight insert wear/lifting around the rafts and a few other inserts that seems typical for games of this era. I'm wondering if I should just clean it up good, wax, and call it a day or install one of the playfield protectors to stop any further wear on the inserts.
I'd love to drop in a new playfield but just can't justify that cost for something relatively minor. I just want to try to keep wear down but I don't know if it's worth it to drop in the protector and have the feel of the game change a bit or if it's something that I probably don't have to worry about since it won't be on route anyway...
Many will disagree, but I have the playfield protector and love it. Stops the wear, makes the playfield look clearcoated and plays great. I clean it with novus 1.
Are any of the switches in the ball trough registering as closed when there is no ball there? You might want to try lighting pounding the playfield to see if they are falsely registering sometimes.
Quoted from Mokthemagicman:
I have the Cliffy protector. Wireform is installed correctly I believe.
Backspin is due to the metal protector. If you install the rubbers around the exit, it removes the backspin. I added a larger rubber around the outside of the exit to to hold the smaller rubbers from spinning and the balls come directly down the flipper.
Quoted from Whitewater:
The 12v bulbs in the topper do get hot and use a lot of power. I just installed a new light chase board from Great Lakes modular and it has a switch which allows you to run 6v 555 bulbs in the topper. I am very pleased with the 6v bulbs and the water fall effect looks amazing. I don't think LEDs will give the same illusion of flowing water.
Skull mountain mod:
Apparently they will be back on eBay in the next couple of weeks.
Can you post the link to the one you bought? Curious about the price we are talking about.
Quoted from nsmith:
anyone have a suggestion on what to do for a part in whitewater play field that is down to the bare wood? It not a very big area about maybe 1 1\2 inches right next to raft 8
I would get a plastic playfield overlay. Sounds like the playfield may be worn in other spots if one is down to bare wood.
If you plunge too hard and the ball drains, you get it back if it didn't hit any switches.
The Fuse 110 issue is probably the light socket on the left side of the playfield under the mountain. Lift the playfield and look for a socket on the left edge directly above or below the support rail. The 44 bayonet socket is probably touching it as the hold is RIGHT ON the rail.
Quoted from Fifty:
Orange arrows. The rafts are yellow. You need to hit the orange "hazard" arrows to finish Wet Willys stage 1. Then stage 2 begins. It will be a moving orange "hazard" arrow.
You can also use the three "light kickback" targets to spot you a hazard or three shots to the Disaster Drop ramp will also spot a hazard. Disaster Drop holds bonus at 6, advances raft at 9, and lights extra ball at 12.
Quoted from Fifty:
Kickback already has to be lit for the kickback targets to spot you a raft. If not, it just re-lights the kickback. 3 shots to Disaster Drop will spot you a raft, and using the "secret passage" will also spot you a raft. Advance raft in boulder gardens also spots you a raft. I like waiting to use this until at least after raft 10 is lit up.
Only the latest version of the ROM will hold your BONUS. L5 does not.
Secret passage DOES spot a raft, Disaster Drop & the kickback targets spot a hazard, not an entire raft. Disaster Drop spots a raft at 9 hits (I believe). If you only need one hazard and hit the kickbacks, then I could see where you would think it spots a raft.
Cool white is so nice on this machine, but most people tend to use a lot of blue or teal. The ice blue also looks good mixed in with the cool white. I'll try to post some pics this weekend.
I decided to do a video instead of pictures. The video can be seen below:
I received a phone call during the video, so I had to cut it short. If anyone wants me to take pictures or further details, let me know.
GI - Mostly cool white with some ice blues from Comet pinball
Under Reds & Yellows - Use Warm White LEDs
Behind transparent blue targets - blue LEDs with flex heads pointed at the targets
bigfoot targets - Cool whites
RIVER letters - cyan
Under mountains - cool whites
whirlpool - ice blues
Thanks! The GI is a mix of the following:
SMD clear and frosted mixed. Some are single old frosted cool white LEDs from Pinball Life, but many were switch to fluted or clear cool whites from Comet pinball. The fluted are not frosted on top (though I think they may be now), but I put a small white label on the top of each to avoid having a spotlight on the plastics above the fluted ones.
The GI behind the blue transparent targets are single flex head blues (I think, will check later). You could do a dual flex head on the edge, because I believe there are only 4 bayonets behind the 5 targets.
The frosted & non-frosted ice blue are from Comet and are great as the light matches the blue on the playfield. The whirlpool is frosted ice blues and looks great in gameplay.
BTW, fun fact. My playfield does NOT actually look that great. I have the plastic playfield protector installed.
You can read more about those here: http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/playfieldprotector/index.html
Someone even put up a Pinside poll about them: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-protector-full-sheet-plastic
I did the same thing for the upper playfield inserts as it is a rough area and you want them to light up really well. Flex heads all the way.
Quoted from Arcade:
Ok guys. Help me out a bit.
The Whitewater manual shows a rubber ring stretched across the top two post like in the photo.
However this make no sense to me because the ball would only make it in the lower area from a left flipper tip shot and why would anyone ever shoot that shot just to hit a couple of stand up switches?
So I just put on post rings like the other photo shows so the ball can get in there from the pops as well.
Has the manual lost its mind or me?
The reason was because many drains were happening down the right side. The manual is correct,but you can put two post rubbers as you did and that should work equally, just be aware that you may get more right side drains.
Quoted from Arcade:
Thanks for the replies.
So far I like added challenge of the ball ending up in that area.
I have not had a lot of right lane drains because of it.
It is pretty easy to pop it to safety.
And that area seems like a huge waste of space with the rubber keeping the ball out.
But I can see how people might like the added safety.
That said, one reason I did it, is because my son happens to be last years State Champion and even though our opto is broken making the left ramp shots not register at all, he was still able to beat the game and complete his vacation planner on his third game.
Not an easy thing to do without a left ramp active.
We keep all our games set as hard as we can or he would be playing all day.
Using the kickback targets and the disaster drop ramp are how I often make the left ramp shot. You may want to take out the post above the pop bumper as it will give more action that way. No point in it being there if you aren't going to have the rubber across it.
Quoted from PjM:
This is correct about the wire ball guide and also look to make sure it is slightly back a tad so the ball does not hit the guide right away but gets more air first then comes in contact with the guide.
It could also be that the coil bracket is bent below the playfield and needs to be rebent so the stop is supporting it well. This will help it kick up better.
Quoted from hlaj78:
The repro ramps tend to be a tad thicker than the originals. I used a small washer to act as a spacer and have heard of other solutions to this problem. A quick search might turn up other fixes. The flipper should be in a straight line with the metal guide.
Really? The hole in the upper playfield for the flipper alignment says different (I think). I originally had it lined up and the Insanity Falls ramp became very difficult.
Quoted from Fifty:
I can't stand the ice White Water but to each their own. I would personally never buy one that has been converted to winter.
The red LEDs for the whirlpool make sense because the whirlpool LED on the upper PF (sign) is also red. However, I've been thinking of using Comet's ICE blue for the whirlpool. Regular blue is too damn blue, but ice or light blue is not as drastic.
Here is the link to a short video I put up of the LEDs in my WH2O:
Quoted from yzfguy:
What's going on on the back Boulder behind the whirlpool is lit sign? Mint looking game, I can't imagine that being white tape holding the boulder together?
Not sure what you are referring to.
I have a light strip in the back plugged into one of the sockets in the back right corner to light up the mountain more. Might be glare off the glass since I didn't take it off for the video. I did this video because I have seen some real gaudy light schemes. Game is not mind, but has a plastic playfield protector on both the main and upper playfields. I love it as it makes it shiny.
Quoted from Fifty:
I'm sold on the ice blue in the whirlpool hole. Thanks for putting up the vid! You definitely need Herg's LED OCD board to smooth out the LEDs but overall I think it looks very nice. It's funny, but I have white LEDs under the RIVER letters and blue under the BIGFOOT targets right now. I bought the pin like this. I wasn't going to swap out the blue on BIGFOOT but after seeing your vid I definitely will. The white stands out much more. Thanks again!
I have the OCD board in my LOTR, but not one for WH2O as it doesn't bother me that much. I may get one someday. The LEDs behind the blue targets are blue flex heads and the ones UNDER the RIVER letters are actually cyan (they look more green IRL). I have never found a good color for the Bigfoot targets. Maybe Brown LEDs would work well?
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:
Hmm, transmitter (inside guide) side and receiver (outside guide) side both have cutouts so the beam will go under on mine. Any chance you have a early serial number? Check to the right of your upper flipper. Is it blue there or yellow? I believe the early models may have used a different configuration there, maybe a microswitch but my memory is a bit hazy on this. I wonder if somebody retrofitted that opto there.
It's an opto on the ramp itself and it doesn't use the one on the upper playfield.
Look at the tree Bigfoot is holding, it should be green and brown. On mine, it is faded to yellow. Same with Bigfoot not being brown, but more of a yellow.
For people wondering what Vacation Jackpot is like, this is a video from the first time I was able to ever complete it. I knew when I had two balls locked and everything setup that I had to get a camera and record it. This is from over three years ago.
Looks great! Where did you get those bigfoot target decals? I like my other targets being transparent, but would love to get ahold of those.
Also, I hope you adjusted the ball guide on the whirlpool shot so that the right-most post is shorter. If not, your bracket holding the switch above the ramp (under the rear mountain) will get broken.
Quoted from halpain24:
I have a restored playfield whitewater now and love it. I have a couple of questions about some of the things mentioned in the last few posts.
I am having issues with a fair amount of rejections in the bigfoot shot under the back mountain. I think it may be rejecting off the switch sometimes. I don't completely get what your talking about doing but would this be why I am having this issue?
Do you have a pic of what you are talking about? Is it something that comes on the pin or added after? I want to make sure mine has whatever protection is necessary.
Check out this video I posted a while back.
The ball guide above the ramp guides the ball directly into the bracket if the ball rides the wall. This "fix" changes it so the ball is brought down lower and doesn't reject from the shot. Your bracket will be smashed to hell in a couple years if you don't do this.
Are you sure that first 89 bulb holder is in the right spot? From memory, it doesn't seem correct.
Quoted from mbaumle:
Just installed Moto-Bone's Bigfoot Bluff ramp guide, as I was also having trouble with ball hangups. I also had cracked switch tabs on my ramp. Eventually, I replace it, but I can at least delay it, since the ramp guide does a good job at holding the switch in place. It took less than 5 minutes to install, and while I needed a bit of finagling to get everything lined up, I was eventually able to get everything screwed down. Definitely recommended if your game is having hangups under the boulders!
A cheaper solution is to just take the third (right most) spacer out from under the existing ball guide. You then replace with a post ring rubber and tighten the guide down more. This brings the ball down lower and it will never be able to hit the switch. Problem solved. Total cost = $0. That ball guide is not necessary at all.
Quoted from mbeardsley:
Yeah, I had a "new" one in a rebuild kit, but when I put it on the right flipper (along with the left flipper still having an "old" one), the right flipper has noticeably less travel distance (which will drive me nuts). I guess that I will order some of the "old" ones. Thanks.
A couple other questions --
1) I got the "skull boulder mod" for Xmas, which I really like. I tried to install it as the directions said, with the bracket to the back of the Whirlpoool sign, but it just couldn't fit. I was eventually able to make it fit (with significant bending of the bracket) by using the screw on the FRONT of the sign. Is this normal?
Also, I have the lights connected to the Lost Mine flasher (as the instructions seem to say), but this seems inappropriate. Is this what most people are using?
I had sort of expected that the eyes would be individually connected to the lock lights, but there is only one connection for the pair of eyes. Does it have to be connected to a flasher, or can it be connected to a normal GI or switched bulb? If I connected it to the green Whitewater lock bulb (when it's waiting for you to lock ball 3), will it burn out the eyes by being ON rather than FLASHING?
2) My Lost Mine kick-out has always been a bit problematic in that it is quite unpredictable. Sometimes it hits the ball guide behind the right flipper, sometimes it hits the flipper nicely, sometimes (but rarely) it goes down the drain. I've tried some different coil strengths, but that hasn't really helped much. It's very inconsistent, and turns it into an annoying sort of "choose wisely" game. Mantis has an "improved" kicker bracket that I am temped to try, just on the chance that it will be more consistent. Has anyone solved this sort of problem, or used this new bracket?
Try to twist the scoop as much as possible when you mount it under the playfield. So that it points towards the flipper more. You can even bend the out part of the scoop down a bit on the right side so it angles the ball towards the flipper more.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:
The last couple games I have noticed i would need a certain flasher to advance to the next raft. I havent had a chance to really troubleshoot to deeply on this. Somehow i'm hitting something else and it will then act as though I hit the target when in fact I didn't. Would this indicate a loose wire possibly shorting or bad diode or something else? Im getting no credit dots either so not sure switch test will indicate any problems. Any ideas where to start diagnosing this? Thx
You can get awarded a hazard shot by completing the kickback targets when the kickback is already lit.
Quoted from PinDeLaPin:
I'm in the process of swapping out my boulders and when I took the rear mountain off I realized someone b4 me made some halfass bracket to hold the switch in place. By any chance would anybody happen to have a spare bracket so I could install this this switch properly?[quoted image]
I posted a link that tells you how to adjust the ball guide to the left of this bracket so it doesn't get struck and broken by a ball flying up the ramp.
Here it is. EVERYONE should do this on their machine or it will end up like yours. Not a permanent change either.
Quoted from Davedigger:
Yeah, I tried that too, all the bulbs I've put in that socket remain lit.. Also the odd flasher next to my Bigfoot is flasher #17 Bigfoot body flasher. So I guess its in the wrong place..? supposed to be underneath him?
It should be beneath the whirlpool decal on the ramp plastic to the left of him where the ball is diverted by bigfoot.
Quoted from dgilmore80:
I finally got around to installing a Cliffy protector where the VUK dents the upper playfield, and when I took a couple of plastics off, I found a flasher hanging by it's wires, not attached to anything. Diagnostics tell me that it is for Bigfoot's body, but I'm not sure how and where to attach it. Can anyone tell me briefly where this flasher attaches and how it fits on the game? TIA
It goes under the whirlpool decal on the plastic to the left of bigfoot.
Quoted from Allibaster:
What kind of bulbs are under the whirlpool assembly? Has anyone done anything interesting with these bulbs for LEDs?
Currently, I am alternating cool white and blue, but I'd like to change it to a light blue or just cool white. All the same color, or alternating?
Try ice blue. Comet I think was where I got the ice blue from.
Quoted from Billy16:
Thanks for that photo, my game is missing the metal form that sits inside the subway altogether--I'll have to try and find one.
You may be able to substitute with something else. The purpose is so the subway doesn't crack from the balls dropping in via the whirlpool.
Check if the GI insert near the rail on the left side of the playfield is making contact. This shorts it out and blows the fuse. I had this problem on my machine at one point due to how close the bulb is to the metal rail.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:
My problem is not the metal ball guides but the actual crack between the mini pf and the ramp. I tried to "stretch" the ramp a bit further but as it's fastened in the other end too I can't close that last little gap. The gap is only about ~2 mm in size but it's still enough to get the ball stuck if it travels slow enough over it. I tried to cover the gap with mylar but no big difference. Also tried to put a partial toothpick below the mylar to even out the gap but still capturing balls.
The previous owner "solved" this problem by increasing the game inclination a lot, but that only made it really hard to go up all ramps, so that's not a viable solution imo. Currently I'm used to shake the game now and then to get the ball loose (often tilting the game in progress) but I really want to solve it once and for all somehow.
Been thinking of maybe using synthetic wood to fill the gap, but I want a solution that doesn't damage the game and still make me able to remove the ramp/mini pf for service and so on.
I believe your issue is the backspin off the VUK. If you install small post rings on the VUK, it can remove this. I have an old post on here, but can probably post up a video soon. It eliminates this issue for me.
Quoted from WH20_Buzz:
I tested and installed a Speaker Delay Line. Works great. Cost $8.70.
I used the 18 VAC going to the Speaker Board. J501 pins 1 & 3 to power the Delay line.
UPC1237 Dual Channel Speaker Protection Circuit Board is just using Velcro to stay in place
Are these the same thing? Can you detail the wiring? All I see is the yellow wire going in. Where does a wire come out?
Quoted from MaxAsh:
Damn, that stinks. Good to know though, I appreciate it. Is there any chance someone has a good picture of that area with the switch/bracket intact? I would greatly appreciate it.
This isn't a good picture, but it is something you need to do if you want to avoid it breaking again once you get a new one or rig up a way to mount the existing one (which you can do).
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