(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 26 hours ago by lrosent345
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#6797 1 year ago

I’m finally back in the club, I picked up a machine that was reimported from France, operated in the US and then it stopped working so it’s been in storage for a while since then.

it needs a few pieces to get back to being ready for the rapids.

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#6802 1 year ago

Does anyone here have a complete, good set of mountains & boulders they’d sell?

My left side mountain under the insanity falls, and the two boulder garden area pieces are shot.

Thanks.

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Added 16 months ago:

I picked up new set of mountains and boulders.

1 month later
#6918 1 year ago

I believe that there is something not quite right with my playfield slides and the action needed to tilt the playfield all the way back to rest against the back box.

I recall that the process of pulling the playfield forward onto its two supports was more smooth on the WH2O we owned five years ago.

The angle used to then move it from its playfield support position and more forward onto the spring loaded catch didn’t seem too steep either. On this one it requires the playfield to be tilted upwards more than 60 degrees and then dragged forward in order to catch the spring loaded arm, followed by a final heave to get it to catch the pivot.

All of the important pieces are present and don’t appear to be bent out of shape.

Does the angle in the attached not-so-great picture match what the rest of you find is required?

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4 weeks later
#6992 1 year ago

Evening edit… I was shown by someone much smarter than me where the two wires go. They are for the Bigfoot head motor.

I am reassembling our machine and have an open (maybe cut?) set of red and white wires off of a 4-pin connector to the upper playfield. The machine hasn’t been played for years, so it’s been a learning process.

Could one of you verify if there is one, or possibly two Bigfoot Body flasher(s) on the upper playfield? The harness for the flasher that mounts underneath the nearby ball guide has one set of red/white stripe and black wires that seems correct.

I cannot see where either a possible second flasher might mount or where the red& white wire pair goes. In the picture it is the red and white pair that is zip-tied to the harness.
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#6994 1 year ago
Quoted from algrande:

[quoted image]

This is what the bottom of mine looks like

Any suggestions on where to buy the motor and metal stand-off?

edit…I’ve ordered a replacement 12v dc motor from pinball resource. I’ll be able to continue using the gearbox assembly, so it’s turned out to be a relatively inexpensive repair.
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Added 18 months ago:

It also appears that the motor is available by itself at action pinball https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-17903

1 week later
#6999 1 year ago

Does anyone here want a used set of French Pricing and Instruction cards? Free!!

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#7001 1 year ago
Quoted from Zartan:

Je n’ai parle pas francais! Mais merci pour l’offre!

No problemo

3 weeks later
#7067 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

I completely understand, I have a really nice like new topper on my WH2O as I was able to find an NOS white plastic standup, clear plastic dome and an NOS topper decal back in 2009. I also purchased one of the Twisted pins WH2O toppers back in 2013 that is now stored in my pinball parts stash.
Here is a video of my WH2O topper in action.

I agree that if someone is missing a topper on their WH2O that the TP topper is much better than not having one. Unfortunately the foil embossing on the TP topper wasn't deep enough for the waterfall effect to work like the original WH2O toppers.
Gord

Seeing that video makes me wonder if my topper bulbs are too dim. Are you using leds?

Yours look very bright so perhaps it’s the camera angle. I recently replaced all 16 with brand new, CEC #194 bulbs.
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#7071 1 year ago
Quoted from GRB1959:

No LED's for me in the topper. I tried some about 12-13 years ago and it significantly reduced the waterfall effect. The prior topper video is from 2018 so I created another video a few minutes ago and it is posted in this reply.
I am taking the video from the front of the pinball machine holding the camera up high so it captures the entirely of the topper lights and the waterfall effect.
Gord

Shopping for those Eiko bulbs now

#7077 1 year ago

I had a couple of translucent yellow stand up targets in the parts bin and I’m considering swapping them in place of the original white ones for Bigfoot Hotfoot.

Any thoughts on whether this look good, better or horrible? Pictures aren’t great and make the area look dark.

If they stay I will add some illumination behind them and I might swap out the yellow post sleeves for blue or white or _?
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#7085 1 year ago
Quoted from EEE:

I had a couple of translucent yellow stand up targets in the parts bin and I’m considering swapping them in place of the original white ones for Bigfoot Hotfoot.
Any thoughts on whether this look good, better or horrible? Pictures aren’t great and make the area look dark.
If they stay I will add some illumination behind them and I might swap out the yellow post sleeves for blue or white or ?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Here are a couple pics with the targets in and backlit, and now with light blue sleeves. I tapped power from the pop bumper GI. I also swapped out the insert bulbs to a yellow that is different than the raft yellow.
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#7088 1 year ago

Does anyone have a good condition, used or new repro Bigfoot Bluff or Spine Chiller ramp? I’m ready to replace my busted up ones.

1 month later
#7155 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Hi all,
I’m looking for a new or like new lock down bar that is 1.25” high. I ordered one from Marco but it is only 1” high. Any ideas where else to search, and what other games might have the 1.25” bar height? Anyone looking to sell one?
Thanks,
Jay[quoted image][quoted image]

Shoot those look like new decals.

I believe that system 11 machines used a 1.25” bar and that the 1” is standard on wpc machines.

2 weeks later
#7163 1 year ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Yes, but it's not that simple
See https://www.flippers.be/pinball_playfields.html
All Whitewater playfields have DP coating and the DP logo below the flippers.
However they didn't all come from the same supplier. Lenc-Smith made them and then shipped to SunProcess to get clearcoating.
Some of these -LS playfields often have small cracks. There are also Whitewater playfields out there that came out of another factory (TAG, and maybe other companies too), the wood of the playfields from TAG seem to hold up better on the WW run.
These can be identified by the extension that's behind the part number under the apron.
If someone has a WW pf that doesn't have -LS then let me know, I want to add more pictures to that article

Our playfield has a -SP part number. Overall our playfield is in pretty good condition and it is a reimport from France.

Send me a message if I can assist you with any additional playfield pics.

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3 months later
#7381 11 months ago
Quoted from Arsenal129:

Thank you. I am gonna order one and will match up the color with paint and or furniture stain. This seems to be the only/best option.

Not to discourage you, but the Pinball Center ones are really thin and might not survive many ball hits.

After procuring a Pinball Center pair, I ended up buying a full set of the Starship Fantasy ones and they seem a lot more durable. Plus they all match in color.

6 months later
#7661 4 months ago
Quoted from PinBotJay:

Purchased a Whitewater about a month ago and I noticed that the whirlpool ejector assembly is shooting the ball right where the right flipper and right flipper ball guide meet. This leads to an out lane drain on the left pretty much every time. I loosened the ejector and tried to rotate it a bit so it would shoot at the right flipper but I didn't really have much room to play with so this wasn't an option. Looked up the manual and it says the stock coil for the ejector is the AE-26-800 which is what is there now. After googling to see if anyone else had this issue I came across 2 posts that reference switching this coil out to an AE-25-1200 and this fixed those peoples issues.
I am thinking about giving this a go but before I do, I wanted to ask this group if this was the definitive answer for this problem? I have checked and made sure the machine is level, which I verified with a digital level. I installed new rubbers on the flippers and put in new balls. I just don't know what else I should be checking before changing out the coil. Also, how difficult is a coil swap? Can I interchange the armature and spring just switch out the coil itself? I have some soldering experience but I am not an EE major and this is my first pinball machine so I am hesitant to start changing things up under the playfield.

Have you tried installing a washer(s) between the scoop assembly and the playfield and then tightening down the screws again? Just a small change in eject angle could solve the issue. Perhaps one or two on the player’s side of the scoop?

3 weeks later
#7690 4 months ago

I’ve taken that post out completely. I like the risk of how the ball will exit the pop bumpers.

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