(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

10 years ago


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  • 7,815 posts
  • 630 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by MiniPinHead
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White Water 12-7043 Wire.pdf (PDF preview)
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#5069 3 years ago

I had a White Water a while back and traded it. I missed it and was lucky to find a decent one recently for a good price. Two questions now:

1) Where do I get the instruction card replacements?

2) If I were to get LEDs, what type from Comet do you recommend? I was thinking of using all white but not sure what type.

Thanks.

1 month later
#5188 3 years ago

I recently got a white water after trading mine years back and have a question about the area near the boulder garden too.

In your picture showing the sling on the angle that connects to the post near “250,000,” is that sling supposed to fire and bounce the ball off it like a pop bumper almost? On mine, the ball just hits the area, and with no force the ball falls or bounces off it. I’m wondering if I have a bad switch but honestly couldn’t remember if it’s supposed to fire and bounce the ball out forcefully or if it’s just a sling the ball hits and bounces off itself.

I appreciate any thoughts and help. Thanks.

https://images.pinside.com/9/96/996328dbd3624dea990ed35571e96a0a11ccb004/resized/large/996328dbd3624dea990ed35571e96a0a11ccb004.jpg

Quoted from DocFinlay:

New Whitewater owner here, so help me out.[quoted image][quoted image]

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#5192 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

It should loosely bounce back. Check the tightness and size of your rubber. On mine it is common for it to go back and forth between the pop and that rubber a few times before coming down. The switch itself doesn't do anything except to set off a sound effect.

Thank you. That’s really helpful to know.

1 week later
#5211 3 years ago

I have the skull mountain mod from Andy over in the U.K., and I’m having some trouble knowing where to connect it.

If I’m not mistaken, can’t it be connected in a way so that it stays lit when the lock is lit? If so, where should I connect it? I know that a gi connection keeps it on always, and when I connected it to the flasher from the left mountain it only flashes when the green “Lite” or “Lock“ targets are hit. It doesn’t stay lit after both targets are hit. I’ve looked through this thread and couldn’t find an answer, so I welcome any thoughts or guidance here.

Thanks so much.

#5215 3 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Yes, I installed this recently. The instructions that came with were a little misleading. You actually want to plug it into the flasher that is located in the very back right of the machine (The dome one that is on the mountain). Then when you lock a ball, the eyes will blink fast in synchronization with that flasher. The eyes will only be on when the flasher is going.

Thanks for letting me know. So if I understand correctly, the eyes will flash only when “lite” and “lock” are hit? Does it also flash when the ball is locked? Is that when that flasher you connect to flashes?

Also, while trying to patch this in, the small molex connector on the mod, the one that has a red wire and two black ground wires in it, had one black and one red wire break off. It looks like they need to be repinned. Any suggestions on how to get the old pins out of the connector?

Thanks again.

1 month later
#5250 3 years ago

I have recently been trying to do more work on my game and not have techs do it for me. That said, I am still learning a lot, and I am getting the message: "Check Switch 54/Lower Jet Area" on the test report with a credit dot coming up. Any direction on how to go about doing that and fixing it? Thanks in advance from a very not-technical pinsider.

#5253 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

If you don't have the game manual, go to ipdb.org, search game name and find the manual as pdf. On page 2-43 you will see all switches and where nr 54 is (above right outlane).
Now a switch can be flagged as "not working" by the game simply when a ball haven't hit it in a while, so depending on your rubber placement in the pop area this can be your case. Simply activate the switch by hand when game is running and see if credit dot disappear.
If this doesn't work go into the test menu, select switch test and press the 54 switch and see if the game recognizes you pressing it. If it doesn't either the switch is bad or some wiring might have come loose, either way you have to open the game and check below the playfield.

Quoted from Jackalwere:

Yes, try the suggestion by Lhyrgoif to activate it by hand with the glass off. It's a leaf switch and should be easy to trigger. Also run a piece of paper between the contact points on the two prongs of the leaf switch while holding them together, this will clean the contact points. If the error doesn't go away, the first thing to check is to go into the service menu. Under tests, select the single switch test. Advance through the various switches until you get to switch 54, Lower Jet Arena. The switch should be open. If it's closed, the two prongs of the leaf switch may be constantly touching. You will need to slightly separate them. Or, as Lhyrgoif explains, you could also have a broken wire or faulty switch. Unfortunately the error and credit dot can be caused by any of the above, just go through each one until you find the problem.
I had a similar issue, except mine was the Right Jet Arena which is above and to the right of where your switch is. In my case there was no gap between the leaf switch prongs because the rubber was pushing one into the other and they were constantly touching, reading as closed in the switch test. Your problem may be similar or could be something else mentioned above.

Thank you both for the help. I will try this in the coming days and report back. I really appreciate the guidance.

#5255 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Switch 54 is just below the lower jet, tucked just above the right side exit.
You have to get under the plastic boulder under the ball launch guide.
Check your rubber configuration as many have a rubber blocking off ball access to this area
[quoted image]

That makes sense. I might post a picture later, as I do think I have the rubber blocking the ball access. If I do, is there anything I should do to fix that? Isn't this the post that can be moved? Thanks again.

#5261 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Switch 54 is just below the lower jet, tucked just above the right side exit.
You have to get under the plastic boulder under the ball launch guide.
Check your rubber configuration as many have a rubber blocking off ball access to this area
[quoted image]

Quoted from arcadenerd925:

+1 for removing the post. I like it way better.

It turns out that the rubber does block the switch. I hit it with my hand, and everything is fine. It's a blue superband, and it looks like the ball definitely would not be able to trigger the switch if it hits the switch.

That said, when you mention removing the post, which post do you remove? If it's the one above the "250,000," does that mean you remove the rubber too? I'm assuming that is not right. Do you mean the blue one in the picture above? Sorry for any ridiculous questions here.

Thanks again for the help.

#5263 3 years ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Long on going debate here about the rubber configuration, I'm assuming you have a rubber between the 2 lower pops , stopping the ball from hitting the switch...
Perhaps take a pic of your pop bumper configuration and post it here?

Not a great picture, but the rubber goes from 250,000 up, so, yes, I think it's between the two lower pops. Any thoughts?
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1 month later
#5305 3 years ago

Because the backbox lighting looked a little dark to me, I started to replace some old burnt 555's today. However, I noticed that the top row of Backbox GI lights are not working even when I put in new bulbs. Can anyone let me know where I should start and how to figure out what's going on? I know that J115 white/violet wires might be involved, from other reading I have done. I welcome any thoughts. Thanks for the help.

1 week later
#5309 3 years ago

I have a White Water that was a reimport from Finland. It has the three coin-slot coin door on it. The coin door does not light up though. I have tried with known, good bulbs. Any thoughts on how to track down what's going on?

Could it possibly be a fuse? I actually had a dead fuse last week that fixed the g.i. in the sky on the backbox, so I was just curious about this for the coin doors too, maybe F116?

I welcome any thoughts. Thanks a lot.

#5311 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Schematics are hard to read (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2768/Williams_WPC_Schematics_Revised_May_17_1993_.pdf page 5) but it seems that it should be fuse 106 for that GI string
Looking at the manual, the coin door GI come from Coin Dorr interface board J3-1 and -3 which comes from J119-1 and -3 on the driver board. I would test power, check connector and track cables.

Thanks so much for the guidance. I’ll see what I can find.

4 months later
#5645 2 years ago

I thought I started to notice the sound on my game getting quieter at times as I was playing over the past couple weeks, but I was not sure.

Now I am sure.

I took a video today showing that the sounds gets quieter at times, possibly when I push a flipper button, and then returns to normal, again possibly when I push a flipper button. It has cut out completely and then starts again.

Anyone have thoughts on how I can pinpoint what it might be? Thanks for any guidance here. I’m not a very technically savvy person but really am trying to get better with troubleshooting and repairing these games.

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