White Water
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Quoted from doro-mini:Is WHITEWATER a difficult pin of repair?
In my whirl pool, ball spins too much and does not fall immediately.
I was able to count up to ten seconds.
I would say you are lucky! I WISH my ball would spin around in the ramp that long. 3 rotations is the norm for mine.
Quoted from judremy:To be honest, you could probably just put a couple strips of Aluminum tape on the top of the clear bubble and get the same effect. It basically reflects and disperses the light.
Nope, that would not work. The embossed part of the aluminum (the part the twisted pins guys seem to almost have fixed) is really what makes the effect. If it was straight aluminum tape repro toppers would have been made years ago.
Quoted from Fatsquatch:In my experience, the issue with the bulb getting smashed in that location has to do with there only being one rubber ring installed, instead of the two 2" rings that are supposed to be there.
One ring just doesn't provide enough resistance to keep the ball from hitting the bulb.
I am lucky on this, but I have yet to break that bulb.
(which means when I play tonight it is gonna get smashed)
Quoted from hlaj78:Why is it that if everyone has diamond plate, there are so many games out there with wear on the playfield?
Diamond plated or not, eventually it is gonna wear. Metal vs Wood....metal wins.
Quoted from doro-mini:The right flipper stopped working suddenly.
Upper right flipper, left flipper, other solenoids , flasher , motor, etc is working well.
Should I change only this solenoid?sssse.jpg 52 KB
No. You need to check the fuse for that flipper, and also check for power at the coil first. Highly unlikely the coil just went bad.
Quoted from horseflesh:Joining the club thread.
Any tips for making the upper right flipper more snappy? I have checked and re-checked the flipper mech, and it seems to be aligned properly yet the Insanity Falls shot is a little harder than it should be--so I am told by those who have played other samples, anyway.
Rebuild the flipper.
Quoted from Mattman55:Does anyone recommend changing the Lost Mine kickout coil from a AE-23-800 to a weaker coil AE-23-1200?
I do, simply because it was hitting the metal ball guide all the time, and you could see the indent already caused by the hits over the years. The fact that it gave *some* ability to gain control of the ball also was a nice side effect.
Quoted from mac622:BTW - does anyone know what purpose that small spacer mounted on top of the inlane frame serves? After looking at other games I can see mine was mounted in the wrong spot (right instead of left) but it got me thinking ` what does this actually do anyway?
Acts as a block from keeping balls getting stuck between the ramp and the inlane guide.
Quoted from Fifty:Does anyone have any experience replacing the hair on bigfoot? Mine is missing the fur on the back of his head. I was thinking of buying a cheap dollar store stuffed animal and trying to match the fur and colour as best I could.
I'm on the waiting list at Bay Area Amusements, and it seems everyone else is out of stock.
Find something that matches close.
Removed old hair. Use that to make a template on the new hair (or some paper for a pattern.) Cut out new hair. Rubber/contact cement to head. Done.
Quoted from dluth:Any one have a link on which screws to buy?
Local hardware store will have what you need. 6-32 bevel head with a nut with star washer (1/2" length I think). Should be under 2 bucks for all 4.
Quoted from Skypilot:Great fix for trough wear
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809
detail.jpg
Wrong trough, that is for the newer WPC style, not the older style.
Quoted from woody76:Anyone have a full set of White Water cabinet decals they would let me use? I would need ALL 5 pieces. I would pay all shipping both ways and pay for your efforts.
Thought these are readily available?
Or are you scanning them to make your own?
Quoted from Fifty:Still working on my sound issue, but had another question for you guys.
The upper PF doesn't use a Flipptronic flipper. Can it? Should it?
I want to place an order to rebuild my flippers and would like to know if I can switch it to Flipptronic or if it isn't recommended due to space limitations or some other reason.
Thanks!
Do you mean the upgraded flipper return spring that doesn't use the conical spring? Whitewater is already a fliptronic game. FWIW I would upgrade the spring.
Quoted from TheLaw:Huh...I'll have to look at some pics of mine...didn't remember a conical spring in there...but haven't been under there in awhile.
Same here. As much use as that flipper gets, I would try to figure out a way to remove that conical spring. They chew through links with a lot of use.
Quoted from TheLaw:I can't imagine there isn't enough room down there for a standard flipper like the rest of the game uses....that's loco!
It may take some 'Creative' engineering' for sure. I have been under the hood for a while.
Quoted from nocreditdot:Anyone have the missing mountain MOD for sale? I emailed the two sites that used to carry them and no response.
Wh20 is an awesome game
I think areneas here makes them still. Red river outfitter stopped years ago. Pretty sure I ended up with his last one.
Quoted from Fifty:What I can't figure out is that there are no original Bigfoots out there for resale. I figure one of the white-out White Water pin owners out there would want to sell theirs to me.
Do you need the entire assy, or just the head/arms/hair? The head and arms are available at a lot of suppliers, and the hair can be found at most any fabric place. Even the complete assy pops up every now and then.
Quoted from Elicash:Anyone else replace Bigfoot Bluff ramp and have an issue with it fitting correctly? Specifically for me, the metal ramp flap did not sit flush where it attaches to upper pf.
I took a dremel with a grinding bit and smoothed down plastic lip under metal flap. Worked great as the area I thinned down is out of site.
Seems these replacement ramps are durable and beautiful, but the durability comes with the price of not so perfect fitting.
Known issue and should be expected with the thicker repro ramps.
Quoted from Pmaino:Now that the GI's fixed I was hoping someone can help me with the extra ball that keeps getting kicked out into the shooter lane. It usually happens 1 or two seconds after the first ball comes out. On ball one there never seems to be an issue but on ball 2 or any ball kicking out into the shooter lane due to a lock, a second ball usually kicks out. I have tested the switches for the troughs(78,77, 76) and also the shooter lane(53). All seem to be working properly when I use my finger or a ball.
Anyone experienced this or have a suggestion?
TheLaw - maybe you can help solve this one too?
Thanks in advance
Pete
Pete,
Check your switches (with a ball) in the lock area. A flakey or bad switch in the lock area will also cause similar problems.
Quoted from nsmith:anyone have a suggestion on what to do for a part in whitewater play field that is down to the bare wood? It not a very big area about maybe 1 1\2 inches right next to raft 8
Touch up, cover with Mylar.
Quoted from pin2d:About 1 out of 10 times when someone hits a ball down the Insanity Falls ramp, when the ball drops back onto the playfield, it bounces/rolls straight into the outlane and is either saved by the kickback or drains if the kickback isn't lit. I'm not sure if it is backspin or something else causing this - does anyone else have this happen? Thanks!
It shouldn't do this. Check to make sure your pf is level, and your ramp is secured down properly.
Quoted from Cserold:My big foot diverter is not working and doesn't work in coil test. Before I go about taking game apart to get to the coil any of you guys have advice on other ways to troubleshoot?
Thanks,
Craig
First, the fuse for that coil has multiple coils on it. If the other coils work, fuse is fine.
Most likely the drive and/or predrive transistor is bad, and needs to be replaced. Information on how to test those can be found on pinwiki.com under the WPC link.
Used Vid's guide to cheap led targets and started lighting them on my Wh2o.
Finished the bounceback and hotfoot targets. I still need to complete the River targets. Built them to run off the associated lamp inserts, so they wont light up until hit.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I have an original WH20 Etched Foil Waterfall Topper, on it's upright stand, with original plastic dome (complete original topper).
Curious what it's worth?
Let me know.
Thanks
Kerry
12 bucks kerry. Dan and I will come by to pick it up 
Quoted from gac:Do you have a link to Vid's guide for this? Thanks
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-led-stand-up-targets-for-19-cents
Quoted from nerdygrrl:So the entrance to my disaster drop is completely broken. No ramp, no ramp protector. I'm getting a switch 75 error, which is not surprising. I've read that the machine shipped with two diff switch types for the Disaster Drop.
Would a couple of you mind taking some pics of your switch at the ramp entrance so I have a better understanding of where the switch is supposed to be located and the bracket I may need to source.
Many thanks in advance.
Lucky for you mine is torn apart!
Mine has optos at the entrance that can be removed without tearing the game down. look under yours and you will see the bracket if it has optos.
IMG_1239 (resized).JPGIMG_1240 (resized).JPGIMG_1241 (resized).JPGQuoted from nerdygrrl:Thank you so much. Fingers crossed for optos.
Bracket mounts to the pf and not the ramp. You might get lucky and have it here, or is it gone?
Quoted from yzfguy:Anyone have a source for target decals? I had some nice ones on my last wh20 that I can no longer find. The guy on ebay makes a set, but I don't love them.
Leave them bare (or light them) is what I would do. I haven't seen an aftermarket target sticker yet that I like for any game.
But you do to your game what you like. 
Quoted from JosephT:Anyone else get upset when they see these machines converted to snow theme? Such a disservice to Dennis and Willy...
Lol
Quoted from onemilemore:Alright club members, hoping to crowdsource a little advice.
Went to look at a WH20 today and am on the fence about it. Hoping you can help me suss a couple things out based on what I perceived to be its condition:
Topper: Intact, plastic scuffed, wrinkle in the waterfall
Cabinet: Decals faded in some spots, couple dings on the head, back leg levelers suuuuper rusty
Playfield: Diamond Plate, some wear at inlane rollover switches and shooter lane, no noticeable cracks in ramps or boulders, all incandescent, Spine Chiller switch not registering
Asking is $5000 plus whatever the repair shop needs to do to it to get up and running, which is a bit nebulous and I'll just set at $500. Between that and wanting to upgrade to LEDs, I am feeling like the price is too high, but wanted to get everyone's take here.
Regardless of price I am still undecided; I worry I might get tired of it (although can always flip it) given the more shallow ruleset. I walked away from the shop thinking I was out, but I've spent the rest of the day just thinking about how well it shoots and wanting to flip it again. I looooooove ramps and know this is a classic, but I don't wanna get in over my head with the way the market has been. Would love to know what you'd put at a value for this pin – thanks in advance for the assist!
Better snap it up. 5k for a wh2o in what sounds like normal everyday condition is a good price.
Topper: dome is easy to replace. A functional replacement decal is not. They have never been reproduced successfully. Most have wrinkles in the waterfall
Cab: sounds normal. Remember when this game was new the home collector market was damn near non existent. Leg Levelers rusty? Buy new ones. .75 each from planetary pinball.
All wh2o games had some sort of auto clear coat. Typical wear is at the ball drops on the lower playfield, where the ball hits the pf from the lost mine kickout, and where the ball hits the upper pf from the vuk. Spine chiller could need a switch adjustment or a new switch.
Sounds like a decent game. I would be more worried about the boards needing work. 12v and 5v section, battery corrosion, and the always forgotten cap on the bi directional board.
Seriously go buy it. 5k is a good price now.
Quoted from Aflacjack:Where do you get this?
I used vids guide to lit 3d targets and built them.
Quoted from yzfguy:OMG. Way too involved for me!
Its really not too bad. Ive made them in batches and it got easier as Ive made more.
Hardest part is getting the holes drilled in the right spot. I need a drill press.
Quoted from radium:Make a jig. Clamp some scrap wood to make a shallow box the shape of the piece to cut. Drop an undrilled piece in, lay a previously-drilled piece on top. Use the holes in the top piece as a template to drill the holes. Quick and easy.
I want to make a metal jig and use a drill press. The press will make vertical holes easy and stop bit wandering
Quoted from G35R6:That’s a great idea. How did you end up mounting it onto the playfield?
I managed to score the last real one from the original maker years ago.
On the back it use a straightened z hook (so the diagonal part is vertical) to hang on the ramp, and there is a screw on another spot.
I can snap a picture later today.
Quoted from G35R6:That’s a great idea. How did you end up mounting it onto the playfield?
20220303_132819 (resized).jpg20220303_132824 (resized).jpg20220303_132852 (resized).jpgHow would the ball enter the passage? There isn't a clean shot there.
Area would be dark too. Two or three GI bulbs in your way.
Secret passage is easy, a good hard nudge when the ball goes into the left orbit will knock the ball enough to kill the speed and have it roll into the passage. It wasn't meant to be used all the time.
Quoted from Zigzagzag:Well ... not sure these are the same thing. Apparently they are "always on" and can be made to "flash" by connecting the third wire to a coil or flasher ground. Didn't work as expected when I just wired them in parallel with the insert lights, they were dim, always on didn't follow the "river" lights as they blinked.
Lamp matrix runs on a different voltage (6 DC vs 6.3 AC) so the polarity matters. Try swapping the leads and see if it works.
Quoted from Zigzagzag:Yeah, I can give it a try. This is what they said when I asked :
we never trie this, are used normal to use on GI
you only can trie out self if it work, but perhaps Problem that ground not always on
It may be designed only for 6.3 and not 6v then.
Quoted from Ive:I picked up one of the 'missing mountain ' mods some time ago and only now thinking of installing. There doesn't seem to be any mounting points on it ? I haven't set the machine back up yet so it may be obvious when I look but does it just sit in position somehow ? Anyone fitted one and advise.
this one
https://sites.google.com/site/redwestwh20/
I have this one in my game. I won't be home for a few days but I can take some pics when I get home. I may have posted pics of it in this thread already.
I have:
Quoted from mbaumle:I have it installed on mine as well. I don’t remember having an issue putting it in, but it’s a nice addition. Covers up any existing wear/ball hangups/divots, and prevents any from forming in the future. Definitely worth your time to put in the game.
Any existing divots should be filled in and made level before installation. Otherwise over time the metal plate will form into the existing divot.
Quoted from Paseb:2nd time in a week, flashers fuse blows.
Any idea what could be the problem?
Short in the socket(s). Check each socket carefully. Bet one has a small piece (like a strand) of wire in it. Pulled my hair out chasing something like that down in an AFM.
Edit: only applies if it takes a bit for the fuse to go. If it pops right away something else is amiss.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I have an original White Water Topper complete (Dome / arched frame and metal etched decal). Curious what you feel it's worth?
I'll be selling it soon.
Thanks for your input.
Kerry
Post som pics Kerry!
I may be interested depending on condition.
Fix your 5v issue properly and remove the kahr board to start.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:My VUK coil that kicks the ball to the upper playfield is randomly firing during gameplay, making it unplayable. The problem goes away when I go into test mode. I have tried unplugging the optos to that VUK area but it still randomly fires even with the optos unplugged.
I also noticed that one of my leaf switches near the Boulder Garden area triggers multiple switches when touched, and I'll get random points and raft advances when trying to even play. Both problems related? What do I look for when diagnosing a leaf switch that activates multiple switches?
Send me a msg. Local and a wh2o owner and can probably square you away.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:I'm interested in seeing some clear before/after photos of White Water ramps being flame polished. This game would have the biggest night and day difference with all the clear ramps it uses.
Ive done it. You have to be VERY careful with the whirlpool ramp on the whirlpool. It gets very thin and very possible to melt.
Will respond to your PM in a bit
Quoted from PinDeadHead:Hi,
My Big Foot is acting up!
I read through threads and now have some ideas where to look but thought I’d ask if anyone solved my specific problem. When I hit Bigfoot bluff when the red light is lit the ball hits his log but he no longer chuckles or turns his head.
He chuckles and turns his head 20% of the time now. Prior to today he worked 100% of the time. Does anyone have any ideas how to troubleshoot and solve this one?
Thank you.
Switch under the top mountain isnt registering. Pretty common.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Does anyone substitute the red Whirlpool mini dome (# 03-8662-9) with a blue one (# 03-8662-10)? I'm just wondering if the red affect is necessary for conveying something (e.g., sucked down the Whirlpool)?
Also, I believe I've seen people do half blue sleeves (# 03-8063-1) and half red sleeves (# 03-8063-4), or all blue, for the actual Whirlpool 6-light PCB lamps, but am wondering again if red is necessary at all?
Does anyone use an LED bulb for these and forgo the caps?
[quoted image]
Switched all mine to blue when i got the game. Looks good and for me blue fits the theme better than red.
Quoted from 7oxford:I changed my red stand up targets to red transparent. Nice glow from the red whirlpool bulbs behind. It’s a pinball game. I’m not expecting anything to look or be real.
I did this to all the square 3D targets
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Do you have a link to the red and white targets you used? Do they make those in translucent? Thank you
I just lit the stock targets, didnt change the faces.
Quoted from JimFNB:On my first white water I put a rubber ring in that same spot that HEP points out, so the ball would drop softly with no spin and roll right down toward the flipper.
Probably found that tip in RGP — that was 20 years ago.
Thats what i have on mine too and it works great. Looks much better than a zip tie IMO.
Quoted from mbeardsley:Not sure what you mean by "a pinball goes missing". Maybe you could explain this in more detail.
Hitting flippers should not score points. Either you have some screwed up wiring, or you have a switch that is too sensitive which is getting triggered just from vibrations caused by the flippers.
The Bigfoot "inner" loop as you call it should have nothing to do with locking a ball. Locks are enabled by hitting the green standup targets on either side of "No Way Out" and then entering "No Way Out" locks a ball.
Bigfoot Countdown should definitely NOT start at the first ball plunge. Hotfoot gets started by hitting the white standup targets a few times.
It sounds like you have either some really screwy wiring or you have a faulty CPU/ROM. I don't know what else could cause the multi-level strangeness that you are reporting.Well, "proof" is a strong word, but the switch test would certainly be the first thing that I would look at.
Go into switch test mode, and with the glass off, trigger each switch manually and verify that it activates the CORRECT NUMBERED switch on the display. The switch numbers can be found in the manual.
I suspect that you'll find a bunch of switches that activate the wrong number - indicating a wiring issue.
Or a badly corroded MPU.
Quoted from Kingjowjow:Does anyone have a 3d Print STL file or know where to get the missing mountain mod for WH2O?[quoted image]
That particular mod has been NLA for a long time. If I recall the person who made that mod is no longer alive.
I should have clarified: the ORIGINAL maker of this mod passed and those are NLA. My mistake.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Blue glitter glue is a good idea, and if you could add Comet LEDs facing the topper, with the blue fire (twinkling) bulbs, you might have something. You have to add 6.3v sockets or led strips, because I think the original lights up there are an unusual value.
Not terribly unusual, 12v.
Quoted from Happy81724:I will if I dont sell it here. I sold the one already and still have the second with a dome.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/168969
Here is the other if anyone is interested. Feel free to make an offer.
Very fair price. These never come up.
Quoted from Nintegageo:Does this look legit to you guys? I always thought it was but a buddy asked so now am wondering.
I know it has fade and the top either got damaged or someone trimmed it to put in their basement >_> (pretty sure the latter as I had to purchase the dome). The water paint seems right, though my machine came with white and blue lights so not 100% certain
Have a video but other than youtube not sure how to load it on the website.
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah that's an original Topper. They faded and crinkled like that a lot. Mine is similar.
Quoted from LePopHumper:So, our arcade has WH2O and we're experiencing a problem with it. The Whirlpool Challenge doesn't seem to give out a second ball. Isn't that supposed to be a 2 ball multiball usually?
Is this something that can be changed in settings or might there be some other issue that could cause it?
Does it let you play whirlpool challenge with the one ball, or does it end right away? I would bet you have a bad switch in either your ball trough, ball lock, or the lost mine kickout. Any spot the game either stages or locks a ball.
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Sacramento, CA