(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

6 years ago

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  • 4,416 posts
  • 431 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by yaksplat
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider dmacy.
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#3534 9 months ago

Doing a deep shop on one now that I’m a club member. Redoing the pop bumpers and wondering if anyone changes the pop skirts from white? Orange or yellow? Blue is too much. White is plain and gets dirty so fast.

#3538 9 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Doing a deep shop on one now that I’m a club member. Redoing the pop bumpers and wondering if anyone changes the pop skirts from white? Orange or yellow? Blue is too much. White is plain and gets dirty so fast.

Likely going with orange skirts and orange transparent bodies. I picked up some clear and yellow bodies to try as well. Worst case I go back to original.

So it’s torn down to a bare playfield and polished it while doing a deep cleaning. I’m going to put on a protector as I’m really liking them. I’ve read most of the whole thread and saw at least a few are using them. How are you liking it?

Any other recommendations to do while I have it torn down this far? This is a keeper for me so want to bullet proof it and a playfield swap isn’t really necessary.

#3540 9 months ago

This is great @mbaumle Have Cliffy’s on their way along with the Mantis target protectors too. (Gave me NOS boulders not installed so want to keep them nice!) Sounds like I’m on the right path you shared as I have all the mechs apart for cleaning and new sleeves. I have to replace 3 coils that are wrong so good I checked. Will pull that rear popper setup and check it well per your suggestion.

Good to know in the GI. The machine came with LED’s already in so may have to go with GIOCD. And the nice folks who sold me the machine have extra targets to replace some wrong ones and some spares.

#3549 9 months ago

As I'm stripped down and about ready to repopulate, I thought I saw some pictures with this red dome having spacers under it. Is that the case and anyone have size? I do have a new one as the old one apparently was broken due to the lack of spacers.

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#3550 9 months ago

Another picture. Note pics are from tear down...

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#3553 9 months ago

Awesome and thank you davi !

#3555 9 months ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

DMacy.... how about a shop out thread for your game? I love your threads.

Thanks, maybe as I get some parts flowing in. There's a ton of nice ones (restoration/shop out threads) out there and feel like I just clutter/distract from others much better posts.

#3561 9 months ago

That eBay one looks ok and if you’re not able to wire up some strips yourself. Curious if anyone here has bought it and what they think of it.

I’m trying some of CT’s pink pop bumper lights for the boulder garden as they have a warm white look when in orange and yellow. May do some more pink in the other mountains as I’m liking what I’ve seen so far.

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#3566 9 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

What is the correct metal post/spacer part number here?
Mine is a welded repaired crap.
Thanks[quoted image]

It’s a 10 32 below and 1.25” hex spacer on top (or at least what I have). I believe it has stud 6 32. Part number 02-4677 as I had one I just ordered as one of the 4 was butchered up. My stud on top of it is in tumbler now. I measured all studs and it’s the only one that length.

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#3567 9 months ago

Correction it should be part number 02-4250-21 and 1 5/16” long. Apparently I didn’t measure well. We need to get with the metric system!

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1 week later
#3648 9 months ago

Domestic on most pins of this era should be “usually” the two coin slots. Exports were 3 or 1. So most here in the US would prefer to have the two slot. But you can get the 2 slot front (3D printed however unless they’re being reproduced again) and convert a three slot to two on the front side.

#3668 8 months ago

Anyone have any good pictures of how the topper attaches? I have all the hardware but would like to know what should be where (factory). Thanks all!

#3688 8 months ago

Yes, but most people have removed it. Apparently it was done to prevent a lot of drains out the outlane, but most here have said it’s been negligible and more pop bumper action with it out.

#3696 8 months ago

I’m missing this ramp support. Looks to be a plastic spacer post. Not finding it in the manual or searches here. Can anyone confirm what type and length the post is?

Thank you!

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#3698 8 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

dmacy I used a #8 1.71” post spacer and cut the top off works perfect:

Awesome. Thank you!!!!

#3724 8 months ago

2SMD cools. I think warm whites look great too. With the blue, like whirlwind I preferred cool white. If I had sunlights in hand, I’m sure I’d gone with them.

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#3733 8 months ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Search this tread because i have some pretty detailed posts about this issue. I've done hours of work on this and I'll give you the cliff notes of my findings.
First, I've manged to set up my game so that rubber washers are not needed to prevent the ball spin. The first thing to do is make sure that the metal VUK guide is correctly set. There is a hole in the metal ball-guide apparatus (on the lower playfield) where a "leg" on the metal VUK guide/cage needs to be inserted. Also, I've found that some washers (I think on the side closest to the translite) angle the VUK guide enough to prevent the spin. I'm pretty sure I have a post in here that gives some more detail. All of the VUK guides are probably a little different so it may just be that mine is bent right, but regardless, I've got mine set now so there's no need to fool with washers.
Second, make sure your game is leveled correctly. You need to level White Water with the upper playfield OFF, with a level near the back of the lower playfield (you need to check the front too but that's easy to get to).
Third, after LOTs of testing, I found that it was ultimately my plastic ramp edge causing the hangups. I observed the exact same thing you did, and it looked like the ball was getting hung up on the side, where the plastic ramp meets the metal vertical ball guide. I spent hours trying to adjust the ramp setting (washers on one or the other side, using tape to angle the sides in, etc.) but no amount of adjusting fixed the hangup. How I ultimately figured out it was the ramp lip was that I removed the plastic ramp from the game entirely and put a pinball on it by hand: I found that the ball just liked to hang up right on the edge of the lip (almost like when you overfill a glass of water and the water creates a "bubble" above the top of a glass rather than trickling over the edge.) So ... I got out some sandpaper and sanded down that sharp plastic lip until the ball tended to slip off the end of the ramp rather than getting hung up. Then I used finer sandpaper to smooth out my work and then did the old Novus 3, 2, 1 treatment to smooth everything out. When working the ramp I would do my best to try to find a way to MAKE the ball get hung up on the end of the ramp and then work the area more so that I could no longer effectively do it. By the time I was done it was still possible for me to get the ball to hang, but it was WAY more difficult than how I started out. I figured that once I added the natural tilt of the game to the equation the ball would no longer hang. Lastly, when I reinstalled the ramp I thoroughly tested the area as I was setting the ramp (BEFORE YOU TOTALLY REASSEMBLE and while you still have good access to that area). I would use my hand to place the pinball in that area and try to get it stuck, then adjust if needed. Challenge yourself to try to get the ball to hang and if it becomes very difficult or impossible for you to get the ball to hang then you know you've done your job.
I honestly have not had a problem since. It's been over a year since I did this and I've only had a handful of times (less than 5) when the ball has hung back there. Even then, a small nudge would get the ball to move. I can't remember when the last hangup occurred, it's been over 6 months.
Of course all of this requires significant disassembly, which you should be doing periodically to clean the game anyway. I tend to do a full breakdown and cleaning about once every 2 years. When I reassemble I pay very close attention to that area and make sure I roll test with a pinball before full reassembly to make sure that area is squared away. I struggled with this for YEARS and it was ultimately the sanding and smoothing of that ramp-lip that fixed the issue.

This was a big help jam_burglar seeing this before and searching for it. That lip you talk of is on mine too and cleaned it up. I did find that on top of that, I had two other issues which will hopefully help someone:
- The lower screw holding the ramp down would hold a slow ball. I've removed it so I can get a smaller head that recesses. Alternatively you could carefully drill the tapered part further. For now I'm running without the screw and it's working great until I get a smaller headed screw.
- Keeping the ball guide and ramp tight with no gap. I didn't have much, but it was enough. A slow ball would still sit there despite the ramp lip and screw. Now that all have been adjusted for, I didn't have any hang ups in 30 or more games.

#3771 8 months ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Didn’t really see any how to threads or what is exactly involved to install him. If anyone could assist me or point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

I just did the removal for cleaning, but I did have the upper playfield off so hopefully I'm remembering it all correctly. The head comes off with a 6-32 Phillips set screw at the bottom of the back of his neck under his hair. Pretty sure you need to remove the mounting block for his head (that should have an allen set screw) to remove the body up. For the body you need to remove two Phillips screws at end of the log/diverter and two Phillips screws that hold the body down to the solenoid plate. After that I think you can just lift up.

Sorry, I thought I had more pictures of this as I did a bunch of almost everything else. Head in pic is just sitting on body.

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6 months later
#4370 30 days ago

Yeah the topper bulbs are 12v and uses the 194’s. They’re common for automotive and easily found. CT and others make the 12v LED’s for this (likely just pulling auto versions) but worth skipping next LED’s here.

Wonder why Williams went 12v here? Anyone know?

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