White Water
Williams, 1993You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider deegor.
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Quoted from TheOnlyest:A dead match for the good ol fashioned decals, original and new GenII. Apparently not so much the Radcals.
This paint is a really good match for the original color. Unfortunately the decals from cointaker are similar to the Radcals. Their color doesn't match the original paint.
Quoted from Jenniebear:Who sells the best decals for this game? Does anyone sell a close color match to the original?
I'm not sure who sells the best decals, but here are the ones Cointaker sells. They look different based on how bright the light is. The first picture is with standard indoor lighting. The second with the flash enabled on my camera.
Here is indoor lighting, then sunlight from an open window.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I hope to start my Whitewater restoration soon. The PF I had lined up fell through, it had planking that was not noticeable in photos. Does anyone have an original that they swapped out that would be a good candidate for restoration that they may want to part with?
Has anyone installed a Mirco? If so how do you like it?
I just installed a Mirco playfield the other day. The playfield looks really nice, and surprisingly almost every dimple was in the correct place. I think I had two or three screws I had to adjust. I haven't played any games on it, as I'm still in the middle of the restore, but I'm happy with it so far.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Good morning,
I’m working on restoring a whitewater and during my quick play test, I noted the ball,
Once it goes into the whirlpool, doesn’t make it all the way to the VUK. The original playfield had just a big screw which actually came through the playfield to support the subway. I used a spacer PN 03-8371. Didn’t see any specific mount parts in the manual for the subway. Is this the correct one to use, or should it be shorter to increase the angle and give the ball a little more speed to make it to the VUK. Game is currently at 6.6 degrees measured at the playfield.
My wife did make it one time to the VUK, but mainly the ball just sits at the turn.
Thank you,
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Is it not rolling down the subway or is it getting down to the VUK area, but not making it into the VUK? I'm working on a restore myself and I noticed the new subway I picked up from Starship Fantasy is a little too narrow, and the ball gets stuck as it rounds the corner to get into the VUK. My original Subway was in pretty good condition, so I used that one instead.
Quoted from Pinoffski:Just asking if it is better to keep the pinball original..
When you are redecal a WH2O
Black inside the cab and on the back of the lower cab..
Blue on the head box..
Have seen that some restorers paint it all blue..
Inside and out ..
Started to sand the cab back inside and out.
I went with black to keep it original, but it should look good either way.
Quoted from snaroff:My WH20 cabinet was restored/redecaled 12-14 years ago IIRC. Unfortunately, these smart leg protectors didn't exist at the time and I used the awful plastic "protectors" that were awesome at creating leg crinkle Finally decided to fix it and was really pleased with the outcome. Used a hairdryer to peel back the decal and then stretched and ironed out the crinkles by hand (then installed the smart leg protectors). Took 15 minutes and looks much better!
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If you haven't already, I would cut away the decal under the metal leg protectors. Otherwise you can still be prone the wrinkling.
Good job on fixing those wrinkles.
Quoted from PinballGalore:Anyone try precision flippers on this title yet? I Kaiser ordered a set of the halo-whatchamacallit-version. Looking forward to trying them out.
I haven't tried them on this title, but did on TZ. They were too powerful for that game and I ended up using weaker coils to compensate. I think you'll have the same problem here.
For those that have installed the Skull Mountain mod, do you have issues with airballs off the standup targets slamming into the bottom of the mod? I've noticed a few really small chips break off the bottom. I'm wondering if I don't have it mounted properly.
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Quoted from Pinkitten:That’s not uncommon. My brown skull mountain was chipped at the bottom too. Your skull looks correctly positioned. You could fashion an airball protector over those 2 stand ups, or these metal ones might reduce the risk. I think Mantis offers them.
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I've looked for airball protectors, but could not find any. Does anyone know if any are still being made?
The Mantis protectors seem to be designed to protect the plastic ramps. Do they actually help prevent airballs?
Those look just like the Mantis protectors at twice the price. I'm just unsure if those would actually reduce airballs. Typically airball protectors sit above the standup targets with a slight overhang to prevent the ball from going vertical.
Quoted from Frogroar:Mirror blades on a White Water. Good idea? If someone has a picture, I'd love to see it!
I had some in my Whitewater, but ended up taking them out, because it was just too tight and were getting scuffed up every time I lifted the playfield.
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Ended up going with Brian Allen side art instead.
Quoted from bobukcat:Surely a set of side protectors would have prevented that??? I always use them on any game with side art, mirror blades, etc. https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
And stop calling me Shirley.
I have the plastic protectors, and I couldn't fit them in. There just wasn't enough clearance. It's always a coin flip on whether mirror blades will fit in Bally / Williams games.
To determine if they'll fit going forward, I 3D printed out some large squares that are the same thickness as the mirror blades. This way I can determine fit before going through all the hassle of installing them.
Quoted from 87shaner:Hi… my whitewater is resetting when I hit either flipper. Any ideas? Thanks!!
WPC reset issues are unfortunately a common problem. This pinwiki has a section on how to troubleshoot this issue.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Game_resets
Kahr makes a daughterboard that can usually fix these issues by pulling voltage from a different source. It's more of a work around, but it typically prevents the resets. You can find it here: https://www.kahr.us/daughterboard.html
You're local, so if you need help troubleshooting this just let me know.
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Meridian, ID