(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required

By Skypilot

5 years ago

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  • 4,043 posts
  • 406 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 minute ago by arcadenerd925
  • Topic is favorited by 182 Pinsiders


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider calvin12.
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#167 5 years ago

I have popped the cap off that exact LED that I have in the game there. But that never happened until I adjusted the flipper so that it is slight away from the guide that is behind it. I need to move that flipper back to the guide since now it is very difficult to hit insanity falls, but the whirlpool is stupid easy.

1 week later
#212 5 years ago
Quoted from Deaconblooze:

That one's gorgeous, doughslingers!
Has anyone installed a repro upper pf drain ramp? Mine seems to be too thick, and causes the ball hang up near the upper flipper at times. I'm wondering if it's best to almost rabbet that edge?
My other woes - my upper flipper started hanging up.. it just seems to be off kilter, but I'm not sure why. I thought it was a bad coil (the sleeve was really tight), so I actually have already replaced that. I just hate having to remove readjust that flipper bat, especially in the tight under playfield, and needing to remove a ramp!!

I'm having the same tightness on my upper flipper after I changed the PF out. It will swing and return fine, but if a ball is behind it when it come back to rest, it will stay part way out until the button is pressed again or something hits its or its rattled. I just have to gotten around to doing any adjustments yet (since its a PITA to get to).

2 months later
#334 5 years ago

everyone has diamond plate. centerpost is not normal unless it was European re-import.

10 months later
#518 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Here's my thoughts on it. I say "yes" BUT don't castrate your game in the process. The original coil kicks the ball out something fierce and you have to gain control, which is tricky.
A lot of people reduce the coil strength but do so in a way that the ball kicks to the (unactivated) right flipper, then bounces over perfectly so you can cradle it in the left flipper. This makes the game SO MUCH EASIER. Lyman Sheets exploited that in a previous PAPA and got some crazy high score. You can get multiple, multiple whirlpool completions on a regular basis like this.
What I did with mine is put in a weaker coil to prevent damage, but it's still a bitch to get controll again after the kick. If you try to let it bounce off the right flipper it will drain down the center, so you must try to control with the right flipper, which leads to all types of variations on where the ball ends up. It's not exactly the same as factory, because the kick is weaker, but the amount of skill needed to regain control is comparable to the original design.
I have a 26-1200 in mine, which is what a lot of people use to get the easy kickout, but you can adjust the coil so that it kicks out a little weaker so that the ball won't bounce all the way over to the left flipper.

im my case i swapped to the lower coil because 90% of the time the kick out would hit the inlane guide and go straight to the left outlane.

#519 4 years ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

Yes, what he said. I would also check the subway fitting from the whirlpool to the lost mine (to make sure the ball isn't getting caught up somewhere).

my repro subway needed to be filed down to stop trapping balls under the game

4 weeks later
#529 4 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

Is this a normal lamp socket, so you can swap it to an LED if you wanted?

Have most people swapped this coil? I'm glad to read this, as I was thinking something was wrong with mine, as I was having a very hard time figuring out how to handle this kick out. I mostly do live catches on the right, which is very difficult for this game and kick out, but it was the only half decent way I could get control. Even then, sometimes it comes out so hard, and I stop a bounce, but it rolls up the right inlane, and over into the outlane... grrrr. (shaky shaky )

I dont know how many people have done it. when it does go up the inlane nudge the game a bit to bleed off speed using the back of the slingshot

#544 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

I'll wait till I upgrade my rom and see what happens.
Actually now that I think about it.
If you do a hard launch and the ball goes SDTM the ball doesn't get kicked back out.
you do get 5000 points.
must be a stuck switch/opto somewhere.
That would explain the ball search too.
If someone could do me a favor and post a pic of the switch test levels screen that'd be great!

rom version is to blame, you are tripping the opto on the ramp, thats where the points are from. WH2O was brutal for that. I think its the later roms and def the home rom that eliminate that.

#545 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

Looking over this game I picked up and noticed this rubber. Supposed to be here?
It's in the pops. Blocking a route out towards the in/out lane. Excuse the filth!

I also found a hair bobbin as a rubber!

IMAG0043.jpg 148 KB

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ring was added in production to eliminate fast drains to the right outlane. I had mine out for a while and it game no pop action at all, but I did not have a drain issue either. I put the ring in and not I have great action in the pops. I left it in. The switch below the pops will still get hit but its rare. This was accounted for in the software and you will find not hitting that switch does not set off a credit dot either.

1 month later
#599 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

The snow makes no sense,
White Water rafting is a summer sport.
The playfield now looks totally out of place

that water you raft on is from the snow on the top of the mountains.

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballer22:

ok.....who has figured out the best arrangement of leds for the backbox? I'm not having the best of luck but I am sure someone has figured out the perfect arrangement.

Umm an led in each socket.

#605 4 years ago

are the mountains in the backbox sick? they are turning green like they need to puke.

1 month later
#659 4 years ago
Quoted from Industen:

Want more cows? Hit this button sequence in attract mode
3L 1S 15R 1S 23L 1S

This has to be done on coin play with no credits, cows and a DOHO

#675 4 years ago
Quoted from Deaconblooze:

Spine Chiller is the left shot on the upper PF (the one that hits the glass)
Disaster Drop is the shot to the right of the lock.
I've never heard it referred to as the suicide canyon ramp, not sure on that..

nope, the glass hitter is insanity falls. the left ramp that goes from the lower to upper PF (or returns a hard plunge) is spine chiller. disaster drop is the right ramp that loops to the left and falls into the left orbit to return.

#678 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So Suicide Canyon Ramp = Disaster Drop Ramp

Ive never heard suicide canyon either, need to check the manual. maybe they called it that in there and changed it on the PF

#679 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So Spine Chiller Ramp is the ramp to the left of the green lock targets?

yes, its the upper/ lower PF transition ramp. its printed on the PF too, as is disaster drop.

1 month later
#924 4 years ago
Quoted from gac:

I could go either way regarding the snow on the mountains or the white mountains. They both are cool in my opinion and if people like it, have at it. I'm curious, however, as to why these "mods" ever started as I don't see the connection between White Water rafting and snow!? It's sort of like converting Fish Tales to an ice fishing theme... which I don't think anyone has done yet. Just sayin.

Where do you think the water in the river came from?

1 month later
#1045 4 years ago
Quoted from mwong168:

I traded away my original WH20 nearly 2 years ago and missed it quite a bit. I'm back in the club again and game will need some TLC otherwise it plays great.
16903307639_b4f9553d8b_c.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
It has a weird metal plate installed on the upper pf VUK. It works quite well with no ball hang ups and out of sight from the player's view. It looks way too clean to be an operator hack I think and wondering if anyone else has seen this or has same thing on their WH20?
16897372638_b2bdb4f0c9_c.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

that's an op hack plate, done well, a bit excessive but functional. Wonder just how bad the divot got before they did that.

#1048 4 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

In the op world...that dude is like the Michelangelo of hacks. Probably involved hammers, chisels, plumb bobs...impressive.

totally, its done incredibly well, but serious how bad must the damage have been that plowing out much wood was the best option?

And I guess not necessarily op, really meant non-factory, could have been private owner who did it at some point. either way a very clean job.

#1052 4 years ago

holy vomit on the before. The only colored LEDs topside on my WH2O are blues on the whirlpool markers, and behind the river targets. I'm running white mountains so you don't see the blue behind them much. Plus they are all single dome frosted LEDs, so they aren't blinding.

#1058 4 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I removed the two controversial posts in the boulder garden area. Now I see why I was always getting the "right jet arena" switch error as the left post had its own single post rubber and the right one formed a triangle, which were both incorrect. I would like to have that area of the playfield configured in the way Dennis Nordman originally envisioned it. I don't anticipate any issues with right outline drains as I have the right drain post adjusted all the way inward. Doing this after going through the bumper mechs with the added bonus of bouncy Titan rings should really improve the action in that area. Can't wait to see how that works out.

I had the rubber out of there and had no draining issues, but I also had no pop bumper action at all. I ended up putting the rubber back in . I'd rather have the pop action than the lower ball release point. What switch was giving an error. I don't think the one below the pops on the right side will set off the credit dot. Or do you have an earlier ROM?

#1062 4 years ago

I have the ring in now. I prefer the better pop bumper action to the lo right exit being open. When the rubber was out I had some immediate drains but nothing that made me need to put the rubber back in. In my case its strictly play quality as opposed to having it to fix an issue. Interesting that you are getting the error from either of the 2 switches to the right under the pops not being hit. Mine never get hit and never report any error. If I test them they are fine.

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