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(Topic ID: 57710)

WHITEWATER CLUB= Lifejackets not required


By Skypilot

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,354 posts
  • 489 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by MMGB
  • Topic is favorited by 227 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider bryan_kelly.
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#3196 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

I pulled up an old article that bryan_kelly was mentioning Painter's Touch #1927... but I can’t seem to find it love any help cheers!

I guess they don't make that one anymore. Try Deep Blue. I think that's a bit closer than 1927.

1 week later
#3230 2 years ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey fellow rafters need your help, the coin door interlock on a white water is the stacked double switch right? My had been pirated so can’t tell.
[quoted image]

Nope. Just the single.

2 weeks later
#3269 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Ok...what’s the trick to getting bulbs out of the topper. I have 3 over them burnt out, and they are super snug. I can’t get them pulled out, as I am being overly cautious to not have hand slip and hit the plastic topper. Any suggestions?

If you've got a spare shooter tip, slide that over the bulb and pull.

#3273 2 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Did you use Purple Power on the bigfoot fur? Any issue with it? I am a big fan of purple power but I am a little afraid to use on bigfoot since he is irreplaceable.
FYI, several posts back someone was asking about flue for the bigfoot fur onto the hands. I found a really good fabric glue at Home Depot. Believe it was in same section as gorilla glue, locktight, etc.

I always used Purple Power on cleaning Big Foots. Just rinse well. I also used to use contact cement to reattach his fur.

3 weeks later
#3329 2 years ago
Quoted from zene10:

Nope. I’ve ledocd and giocd in my whitewater.
Still have incandescents on the topper, some flashers on the playfield , and all flashers in the backbox.
LEDs in the topper look aweful

Agreed. Led's simply don't work in the topper. They also are not affected by the OCD board.

2 months later
#3578 1 year ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Curios: why there are 2 down votes on drfrightner game?

Just because it has the word water in the name, doesn't mean you need to make everything blue....especially the translite.

That's all I'm going to say.

#3630 1 year ago
Quoted from Jam_Burglar:

It is a little bit lame

You said it, not me.

4 weeks later
#3766 1 year ago
Quoted from MajorDrainer:

Hello. New owner here. Does anyone know where this piece goes? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
[quoted image]

Doesn't look like anything I've ever seen in any game.

Looks like part of a wireform.

#3782 1 year ago
Quoted from guido:

[quoted image]
They are the 194 ones.

Yes.

1 month later
#3939 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

So the wife has made it clear that she does not like the red bulbs in the whirlpool. She insists they should be blue.
What do you guys suggest I use for blue in the pool? blue covers, blue frosted LEDs?
And is there an easy way to change out these bulbs or am I looking a tear out of the ramps?
TIA

You get to the light board from the underside. You just need to remove the subway. Take a look. You'll see.

1 week later
#3978 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Killing time on the runway, late last night while playing I noticed my slings and pops are not working. Everything else seems to be working 100%. I didn’t have time to check anything, but my initial thought is that a fuse must have blown. I just reviewed the fuse section in the manual but didn’t see a specific fuse pointing to the slings and pops.
Does anyone know off hand if one specific fuse is controlling this and if so which one?

The slings and pops are solenoids 10-14 and connect at J-127. Not sure which fuse it is, but I'd say you have one blown.

#3989 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

So I checked all the fuses, no issues. Reseated the cable for J127 and no change. Confirmed that none of those solenoids fire in test mode.
Thoughts on what to look at next?

Did you pull the fuse and check with a meter?

3 months later
#4261 1 year ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Anyone know what screws hold the right ramp onto the upper pf? Mine are missing.[quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/ramp-screw.html

#4275 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

I'm thinking that the raised fins on the up kicker are stopping the ball from centering itself on the upkicker

That could be the issue. If one or more of the fins are worn or broken, the ball will not be centered and may not kick out.

#4277 1 year ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

Ok what’s the trick to getting out the whirlpool ramp? I need to put two screws into the ramp underneath it and can’t get this thing off for anything. It appears attached to the upper playfield somehow?

You need to remove the upper playfield. The ramp is attached to the underside.

2 months later
#4468 1 year ago
Quoted from mjthompson:

I've had my WH2O torn down for far too long (over a year). It's a re-import from Denmark that I've had for 15 years. I finally decided to do a thorough shop job (not a restore) to get rid of the smoke smell (yes still). I took the playfield and all the boards out. I'm in the process of putting the boards back in the head. Is it best to test the boards first without connecting any harnesses/ribbon cables and then slowly add everything back in? I have switch & lamp matrix testers that I got last black friday so it seems like it would be best to test that way first. I searched the forums but didn't find anything that described a systematic approach like this.

What I like to do is hook everything up except the playfield. Most issues I've had have been playfield related. There are two harnesses from the cabinet, one is power from the transformer (you'll need that for anything to work) and the other is to all the cabinet components (you'll need that for the coin door switches to work for testing).

You'll need the speaker panel with display hooked up.

You'll need the ribbon cables hooked up as they send signals between the boards.

Lastly, there's a smaller cable that connects power between all the boards. You'll need that too.

3 months later
#4673 9 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

What is the best way to reattach them?[quoted image]

Contact cement.

4 months later
#5068 5 months ago

I've got a CPR plastic set for sale. $140 shipped.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/whitewater/

Also Mantis ramp protectors. $30 shipped.

https://mantispinball.com/product/whitewater-protector-set/

Added 154 days ago:

Parts are sold.

1 week later
#5093 4 months ago
Quoted from Johncare07:

Appreciate the help. Does anyone have a picture of the part attached in the trough? I can’t seem to find it in the manual.
Does the part go where the tiny holes are circled in the attached picture? [quoted image]

It's this one, I think.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542

3 weeks later
#5161 4 months ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

My wh20 has the a wrinkle in to foil topper which seems kinda common, how do ppl address this? I was thinking about a heat gun and going slow?

Bubble or wrinkle? If it's a wrinkle, I don't think there's much you can do, unless it's minor.

If it's a bubble, take a razor and cut a small slit in the foil going parallel to the grain. Heat with a heat gun/hair dryer and smooth out. Without the slit, the air has nowhere to go.

#5179 3 months ago
Quoted from DocFinlay:

New Whitewater owner here, so help me out please (referencing previous post-same issue I think). The machine is generally in great shape, but as I was taking it apart to put on new rings I was confused with the area called "jet arena" just off Boulder Garden. The post and ring arrangement doesn't match the owners manual nor the operators manual (which actually don't match each other either). It seems like the ball should be allowed to pass thru from boulder garden to jet arena. I'm guessing they should have post rings rather then a ring stretched across the opening between the 2 pop bumpers. Maybe the previous owners modified this area? Please help. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image]

It can be done either way. The way you show it simply prevents right side drains. I prefer the single post rings.

2 months later
#5247 49 days ago

I've got a new set of boulders/mountains for sale, if anyone is interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-wh2o-repro-boulder-set

2 weeks later
#5269 31 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Looking for some advice...
Is this zero clearance normal?[quoted image][quoted image]

Did you install new ramps and/or mountains and boulders? Ramps are thicker and also the boulders.

If so, you may have to shave off some of the mountains on top. Grind, file...what ever it takes.

Big Foot is no issue if his fur touches the glass.

1 week later
#5279 22 days ago

I've seen that before but I don't think it goes in a WH2O.

It almost looks like a wrench.

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